this is exactly the information I was hoping for. I had plumber install Kohler acrylic tub. didn't use any mortar bed. Now the tub creaks terribly every time anyone takes a shower. I called Kohler to see if I could use foam. they weren't sure. Thought maybe the low expansion type foam would be ok. Now I have a great tutorial. thank you for posting this!!! I was surprised the foam didn't cause the surround walls to bow in. great video.
Great videos! 👍🏼👍🏼 I did something similar for a handicapped friend that wanted his tub water to stay warm longer… so he could soak his sore hips without getting cold or needing to re-fill the tub every 10 minutes. Installed the tub, filled it with water, spray foamed the bottom, let the bottom foam harden, then got more foam & went all the way up 3 sides of the tub with the door & window foam (not fully on the drain side, didn’t want to mess with foam on my drain pipes). Foamed it all up to just above the water line. Worked very well for him; just glad I’m not the guy tearing it out. 😂🤣
Added benefit of insulation for the tub keeps it hot longer! My best friends dad bedded a tub in mortar and the tub was always ice cold quickly. Mortar draws out the heat so fast. When I replaced my rub, I installed it, but was able to access the bottom, I used spray foam, worked amazing and the water stays warmer. I've stiffened quite a few showers for friends using minimally expanding foam and drilling holes through the subfloor for access. Minimally expanding to keep the shower from floating off the floor. Works great!
Great bro this is exactly what I was thinking about to filling under a tiny space under a bathtub but I don’t know how to do it Your idea with the 1/8 tubing and a piece of cable is just simply brilliant Thank you very much
Thanks man!! My shower wall has had so much flex at the bottom of one of the walls that i just know it has zero blocking behind it. I will try this trick tomorrow! Thanks a million!
Great work, Paul! As a plumber, my one thought would be to intentionally leave enough access around the shower valve and the tub drain to clearly check for leaks and to service them. This really does fix one of my biggest bug bears with "glass tubs and shower enclosures. Merry Christmas to You and the Family!
I'm thinking of ordering a set just so and can dream about it. I have really enjoyed your series and plan to watch from the beginning again. You are a top craftsman. Your lovely wife is so positive about you and the build.
I've seen so many budget builders just throw the tub in with a few screws and call it good, and I'm like wth? So with my son's new construction house I research every step and try to do everything right. He wanted a tub with the 3 piece walls so we got to shimming yesterday and the instructions said to put glue on the studs then secure the walls somehow so they stay in contact with the studs til the glue dries. Well, most of the studs barely even touch the walls as it is, so I plan to add some 2x4's onto the existing studs and getting them closer to the wall panels. So I told my wife that the instructions said to glue the walls to the studs which would then have to be secured, and she said, why not just use the spray foam? So with that great idea and a quick search here I am! Now I can make this flimsy-ass shower a lot more solid. I do plan on using the window/door foam.
Licensed Master Plumber here, these are great ideas. I normally encourage people to get a tub base and tile the walls, but occasionally I get a fibeglass unit to install. I'd like to try these ideas on the next one.
Great, clear photography of your process! I would only add (and maybe I missed this in others' comments) to wear disposable gloves while foaming, hold the can upside down, and resist filling the space, the foam will continue expanding. The "pro" nozzles they sell, though they seem expensive, are worth every penny on long projects. You can stop and start as often as you need to. The steel nozzle on them also allows a larger diameter extention tube when needed.
Thanks for this! Mid-major-remodel and the next step is tub install. I had planned on using mortar but this makes a lot more sense! Especially after seeing the comments about insulating the bottom...
Was thinking of doing the same thing now that I have seen it work I'm In ! But my whole install is a blind reach between and behind the 2x4s water buckets a great idea thanks for taking the time for the rest of us
Great video , the bottom of my tub is weak and I really can't afford a new tub right now I was trying to think of a way to put something under the tub to help . I came across this video and so glad I did , this is very helpful .
Brilliant! Sadly, too late for my tub install. I've had to be creative when working alone. I really like the support for the sides of the tub. Thanks for sharing.
I remember the old days when the plumber got out the sakrete to set the tub in. This is a much better system, especially fastening the sides to the studs. Great job.
We are in our 70s and doing a drop in whirlpool/Air tub from Comfortflo whose directions is to pour a Mortar base and cover it with plastic. The problem is we have less then 3 inches around the tub and with a drop in we cannot lift it drop it in after cutting the top part at about 155 lbs. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about using Expansion Foam and so that is how I ended up here on your TH-cam Video researching the idea. I picked up a couple of other ideas from you and I can see a professional who takes pride in his work doing his job. My tub is in now and I am hooking up water and electric. When all of that is finished I will duplicate your procedure and see how it works. I did install 1/2 inch plywood and 1/2 in hard board to floor already to lift it 3 inches and allow the 1 1/2 inch drain pipes to install. One thing is that expansion Foam will expand and can lift the tub so I will be filling it about 80 percent water first and working in increments with the foam to insure minimum expansion. Your video is much appreciated and your work is very professional as well as your explanation and camera usage. Thank you
@@MrPostFrame No need for thanks. TH-cam rewards comments and I so I make sure to say something and to share as well. What a job - you are a man among men my friend; family generations will remember your strength of purpose here... It sounds funny, but it's a really massive job that you've take on and are doing very well.
I have used great stuff (spray foam) on all plastic tubs and have never had one crack. I never used ridge foam under the tub along with spray. Put it seems like it would work also. I would buy a case and spray up the sides, front, back then set the tub and secure it to the studs. Then spray all under the tub front to back. Cut off what would squeeze out. And wall it up.. owners would tell me that there baths stayed hotter longer. Doing good - keep it up 48 yrs experience
I only recommend foam for existing tubs. If you're putting in new, regular old mortar any day. It holds up buildings. Just make some width-wide humps taller than the gap underneath, and seat the tub in the mortar. It doesn't have to be fully supported 100%, but enough to stop any and all flexing. It'll squish down and bond like laying bricks. I also recommend ledger boards on all 3 walls to support the ledge and board(s) to support the apron. It'll easily support a 400 lb person after that.
@@corwin5557 worst case scenario, your left without the extra support and the tub is standing like it was originally designed on it's factory support points
My tub is in a manufactured home. A DYI remodel from a previous owner. They did not put the tub on a solid stable bottom, so the tub creaks and I am concerned about the longevity. I have no access to the underneath of the tub. So... I have decided to drill/saw out 1 inch holes in the base of the tub about 2 inches up from the floow. I will do four holes. I will make the tubing extension (which is a GREAT idea and a big $$ saver) and fill the tub with water and spray the foam. One person at the hardware store suggested that I get under the house and drill holes from underneath. I just thought that idea was a higher risk of poking a hole in the bottom of the tub. When done with the foam, I have white ceramic knobs that will sit in the hole perfectly and make it just look like a decoration. Of course, I will seat them in clear silicone caulking. It has taken me several months to get the courage to do this. I am so very thankful for these videos!
When I did remodeled my master bath the plumber put cement down to create a bed for the fiberglass tub. It worked well. When I redid the another bathroom, the plumber didn't do this and a year later it creaks like crazy. I just tried the spray foam like you did here and it was a big mess. There was probably less than an inch between the tub and floor so I just used the spray foam. However, when spraying the foam, the tube kept popping off from the pressure and foam was coming out before it even before it hit the tube. As a matter of fact the tube that came with the can broke off due to pressure. Home Depot didn't have the 3" filler so I just used the 1". What a mess though. The mess was caused by the tube popping off and the foam leaking out before it even entered the tube. I have foam on my arms and hands and everywhere on the ground. Good thing I had gloves on. Now the bad news-the tub still creaks.
As I mention in your install video, you will enjoy this trick. I spray the outside of the bath before install with a layer and fill it up after install. It will insulates showering sound, keep the bath water longer 🥵 hot and indeed overall give a sturdy feel.
Will this help if there is a crack going down into the drain ? I have chalked it and need to support it like you did in this video . I think mine is plastic or something but not sure
Makes me feel better I didn’t already as much my dad a plumber told me to be careful not to do to much, it’s definitely inflated a lot more but I think it’s fine
I have same issue. The very expensive shower kit I bought recommended no mortar bed over wood sub floor and I questioned it. Sure enough now that my shower is installed and new walls are in we’ve used the shower and the floor is soft and makes squeaking noises.
Same thing with the shower base in our ensuite. I just pulled the one piece shower/tub on the opposite side and will use the Marshall Spray Foam Extension Tube to get some minimal expansion foam sprayed under the shower pan. Then i'll use this trick for the new soaker tub. Hopefully you can remove some drywall and get some spray foam under yours. Squeaking and flexing will lead to cracks down the road, i would think.
Thanks. I was worried about the expansive foam having too much pressure for the tub. The old timers used to use paper meshay (sp?) to fill the iron tubs before they set them.
Don't use foam boards under a tub. One day the weight will compress them and your tub will be uneven. Water will collect in areas and it will be a mold fest. I bought a house built in 1990. It has 4 bathrooms - all identical. All have the exact same one piece tub and walls - very similar to this video. Three of them have boards underneath supporting the tub. The last one to be installed someone cut corners. Looks like they used leftover foam boards. I am sure it was level when they finished installation, but over the years the tub leans to the non-walled side. This is the least supported side as it is not screwed into anything. Now water collects by the drain. It is hell to keep this tub clean. Inevitably, mold starts growing as it never seems to dry out. The only way to prevent it is to put a fan on it or run a humidifier in the bathroom. I cut an access panel into the wall and am trying to lift one side of the tub up. Haven't figured out a way yet. If I had more energy I would rip it out and put something else in.
after a repair of my master shower drain which is above my kitchen. I added a little spray foam such as you are doing to help make the drain joint more ridged. It worked well, but now my water in the shower pan doesn't flow well from the rear and front of the pan to the drain. I have wondered if I need to open the kitchen ceiling again and try to remove some of that foam and use less!
Canned foam used in a thicker blob than recommended will have some strange results. The foam a few inches back won't have any moisture to cure with, so it will stay liquid, and the bubbles of gas will coalesce into giant pockets. The reason the sides expand out so much is because the center has a lot of hollow spots that pushed the foam out. Best practice for doing this kind of thing would be making the foam board a very tight fit, spraying water back there to begin, then making lines of foam one at a time, giving them a few minutes to expand each time. Even better might be planning ahead and sizing up some squishy foam like neoprene rubber on top of the foam board such that the bottom of the tub can be installed on top of the foam and just smush the assembly a bit. For the vertical situation (insulating and adding rigidity between the shower wall and the studs), I think it would be great to use normal carpentry practices but with foam board. Buy as much foam board as needed, in whatever sizes needed, to fill that whole gap all the way to the ground, with the foam board taped/glued together. Then just use wood shims with whatever adhesive you've got to make up the remaining distance and keep the foam in tight until the adhesives cure. I don't think the foam board needs to be held in very well, nor does it need to have an air tight bond to the shower wall. Solid sticky foam would technically do better here, but tight foam board would do better than most people would ever want.
Could this be done after house is finished? Or idea on what to do after we are completely finished ? We didn't do this and now I feel like our tub "pops".
Great video!!!. I always hear about the mortar base also as you said in beginning of video. However , you will not find mortar beds in rv's and mobile homes. I'm installing a new neo angle shower pan in rv and will be using this technique.
Great video. My situation is that the builder installed an acrylic tub but didn’t attach it to the wall so the tub sags and pulls the caulking apart. I can get access from an access panel for the jacuzzi pump. I’m looking forward to trying this solution. The back wall is exterior stucco so I can’t come at it from the backside.
I have a similar situation. I'm interested to hear if you ended up doing it. My bathtub is in the wood frame with tiles on top. They made a wood tower, for every tub leg, to make it higher and screw the towers to the sub floor. The tub itself wasn't attached to anything, except for caulking between the top of the bathtub and tiles. Caulking cracked everywhere, so I had to remove it, but it only made it worse and unstable.
@@Alex-gc2gs Upon further investigation, it looks like my wife bought a "bargin", saved money but will ultimately cost more money. The tub can't be attached to the wall, it's meant to set on a 2 ft high wall. Someday, the whole bathroom will need to be rebuilt.
This is great! I will be doing this in a few days to my tub. But question for you.. if I were to not add this support (or any support) to my fiber glass tub what would happen?
I’ve had to replace one tub and one shower due to cheap fixtures or couples saving water😉. Split right down the middle on both units. I always pre-fill with mortar first. Try small diameter pex pipe next time for the foam.
My wife and I purchased 12 acres and a brand new manufacturered home. Giant tub and it was barely supported. I took the side panels off and used the remainder of a kit to fill the void . The unexpected benefit is its like a yeti cup now. A hot bath will stay hot longer
I installed an acrylic tub on a sub-floor but didn’t strengthen the floor beforehand (just put it where the old tub was). The acrylic tub has “feet” and one or two of the “feet” are squeaking the floor (slight movement). I know I will have to strengthen the floor from underneath (finished ceiling underneath so have to cut some of that down). Question is, how would I strengthen the floor underneath (between the floor joists)?
What about for a mobile home shower tub combo with a small crack going into the drain flange and the drain is in the middle towards the back of the tub :/
I couldn't find 1/8" ID tubing at either Lowes, HD or any of the other stores. All they carry is .170" its only .045" more, so what the heck, I tried that. HUGE mistake!!!! the tubing poped off and made a big mess. I was about order some tubing from Amazon, but I really wanted to finish the job today. Then it occurred to me that I had a coil of 1/4" drip irrigation tubing! so I tested that and it worked perfectly! back in business.
Are the 5 gallon buckets necessary? I currently have a customer wanting this done. So if you use the filled buckets, spray foam, then remove the buckets after dry, won't that allow a slight gap because once the buckets are lifted out, the tub would elevate slightly again? So wouldn't that create a gap and it will squeek again, getting into a dry shower? I guess I'm debating if the 10 gallons of weight is necessary.
the idea is to hold the tub down so the stuff does not expand and lift the tub, If the tub it screwed to a wall like many alcove tubs then this wont be as much of an issue, but with this, until he "great stuff glued' it down, it didnt have anything holding it. Im curious about the weight it can actually hold before deforming, because if you poke the great stuff foam, or just make a dollop on the floor wait for it for harden then step on it, its deforms rather drastically. Yes it springs back into shape, but in my understanding this movement would be bad.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 ,I have to agree with Rich ..I would not put in any water in tub ..use the less expanding foam blue can not red .. If you put water in tub it's going to leave gap when water is removed ...
I have a tub that makes a lot of noise when it's walked on. I have no way to access under the tub. I think it needs foam board under it. Can I remove it and pack the floor with foam board and then put it back in?
Mine is already installed years ago. I just got a 2’ window to have access to the plumbing. Its recently gotten creaky and theres No base flooring at all under it! Just beams. I’m very shocked. Not sure if i can do this with nothing under it at all.
ours cracked less than 6 months after moving into our newly built house. guess they didn't bother supporting the floor before they installed it...🙄😠 we drilled holes in it, sprayed the foam, and let it cure. once it cured, we removed the excess and plugged the holes. they sell repair liners that go over the existing fiberglass floor. you use epoxy to glue it in and now you have a new floor.
End of video he says $35 per shower. Even if its $70 per shower is worth it.... working with mortar too much work. Time over money, need to think differently 👍🏼
Why tf are showers being built with tapered walls instead of straight up and down? I'm a heavy dude and so I'm always cautious with how I place my weight....so why are they making showers that are almost impossible to reinforce flush with a stud/plywood behind it so that I don't cause stress cracks whenever I lean up against the "wall"....it's not a wall like that, it's a shell. -_- an unsupported shell.
@@MrPostFrame get a toy haul RV put all your gear in the back where you haul the toys then get you a covered trailer heavy duty to haul your materials you may have to upgrade the RV to support your equipment
This is great. That foam gun with the hose hack and wire is brilliant.
Thank you!
this is exactly the information I was hoping for. I had plumber install Kohler acrylic tub. didn't use any mortar bed. Now the tub creaks terribly every time anyone takes a shower. I called Kohler to see if I could use foam. they weren't sure. Thought maybe the low expansion type foam would be ok. Now I have a great tutorial. thank you for posting this!!! I was surprised the foam didn't cause the surround walls to bow in. great video.
Excellent tip using the spray foam and poly for strengthening the floor. Quiet and Sturdy now! Great work Paul..
Thanks!
Great tips!
Great videos! 👍🏼👍🏼
I did something similar for a handicapped friend that wanted his tub water to stay warm longer… so he could soak his sore hips without getting cold or needing to re-fill the tub every 10 minutes.
Installed the tub, filled it with water, spray foamed the bottom, let the bottom foam harden, then got more foam & went all the way up 3 sides of the tub with the door & window foam (not fully on the drain side, didn’t want to mess with foam on my drain pipes). Foamed it all up to just above the water line. Worked very well for him; just glad I’m not the guy tearing it out. 😂🤣
Added benefit of insulation for the tub keeps it hot longer! My best friends dad bedded a tub in mortar and the tub was always ice cold quickly. Mortar draws out the heat so fast. When I replaced my rub, I installed it, but was able to access the bottom, I used spray foam, worked amazing and the water stays warmer. I've stiffened quite a few showers for friends using minimally expanding foam and drilling holes through the subfloor for access. Minimally expanding to keep the shower from floating off the floor. Works great!
That just because he turned the hot water off so you'd start bathing at home instead of jacking up his water bill.
What specific foam do you use? Things still holding up well?
Great bro this is exactly what I was thinking about to filling under a tiny space under a bathtub
but I don’t know how to do it
Your idea with the 1/8 tubing and a piece of cable is just simply brilliant
Thank you very much
Thanks!
Thanks man!!
My shower wall has had so much flex at the bottom of one of the walls that i just know it has zero blocking behind it.
I will try this trick tomorrow!
Thanks a million!
Great work, Paul! As a plumber, my one thought would be to intentionally leave enough access around the shower valve and the tub drain to clearly check for leaks and to service them. This really does fix one of my biggest bug bears with "glass tubs and shower enclosures. Merry Christmas to You and the Family!
Thanks for the tip!
I'm thinking of ordering a set just so and can dream about it. I have really enjoyed your series and plan to watch from the beginning again. You are a top craftsman. Your lovely wife is so positive about you and the build.
I've seen so many budget builders just throw the tub in with a few screws and call it good, and I'm like wth? So with my son's new construction house I research every step and try to do everything right. He wanted a tub with the 3 piece walls so we got to shimming yesterday and the instructions said to put glue on the studs then secure the walls somehow so they stay in contact with the studs til the glue dries. Well, most of the studs barely even touch the walls as it is, so I plan to add some 2x4's onto the existing studs and getting them closer to the wall panels. So I told my wife that the instructions said to glue the walls to the studs which would then have to be secured, and she said, why not just use the spray foam? So with that great idea and a quick search here I am! Now I can make this flimsy-ass shower a lot more solid. I do plan on using the window/door foam.
Did it work out for you?
I've used that foam on cracks and such.. but you used it creatively in your situation. Great idea.
Thanks for watching!
Well done. Always enjoy watching an experienced builder in action.
Exactly the video I needed to see! Thanks for producing this content. I'm headed into my project with a lot more confidence now.
Licensed Master Plumber here, these are great ideas. I normally encourage people to get a tub base and tile the walls, but occasionally I get a fibeglass unit to install. I'd like to try these ideas on the next one.
Yes, if budget and time allowed we'd prefer tile walls, but we think these will do well.
Why use great stuff it is not rigid when it dries but soft. How will it support weight?
Great, clear photography of your process! I would only add (and maybe I missed this in others' comments) to wear disposable gloves while foaming, hold the can upside down, and resist filling the space, the foam will continue expanding. The "pro" nozzles they sell, though they seem expensive, are worth every penny on long projects. You can stop and start as often as you need to. The steel nozzle on them also allows a larger diameter extention tube when needed.
Thanks for this! Mid-major-remodel and the next step is tub install. I had planned on using mortar but this makes a lot more sense! Especially after seeing the comments about insulating the bottom...
Awesome! Glad it helped.
Was thinking of doing the same thing now that I have seen it work I'm In ! But my whole install is a blind reach between and behind the 2x4s water buckets a great idea thanks for taking the time for the rest of us
Thanks for the comment, and glad it was helpful!
Did you do this? How’d it go? Holding up well?
Great video , the bottom of my tub is weak and I really can't afford a new tub right now I was trying to think of a way to put something under the tub to help . I came across this video and so glad I did , this is very helpful .
Did you do it? Holding up?
Keep up the hard work. Great ideas too.
Thank you!
Great lessons today on the foam around the tub/shower. Looks great. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Brilliant! Sadly, too late for my tub install. I've had to be creative when working alone. I really like the support for the sides of the tub. Thanks for sharing.
Your attention to detail is marvelous. Great job.....jobs.
Thank you very much!
I remember the old days when the plumber got out the sakrete to set the tub in. This is a much better system, especially fastening the sides to the studs. Great job.
Thanks!
@@MrPostFrame Why use great stuff it is not rigid when it dries but soft. How will it support weight?
@@chrislasala Im wondering this myself.
We are in our 70s and doing a drop in whirlpool/Air tub from Comfortflo whose directions is to pour a Mortar base and cover it with plastic. The problem is we have less then 3 inches around the tub and with a drop in we cannot lift it drop it in after cutting the top part at about 155 lbs. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about using Expansion Foam and so that is how I ended up here on your TH-cam Video researching the idea.
I picked up a couple of other ideas from you and I can see a professional who takes pride in his work doing his job. My tub is in now and I am hooking up water and electric. When all of that is finished I will duplicate your procedure and see how it works. I did install 1/2 inch plywood and 1/2 in hard board to floor already to lift it 3 inches and allow the 1 1/2 inch drain pipes to install. One thing is that expansion Foam will expand and can lift the tub so I will be filling it about 80 percent water first and working in increments with the foam to insure minimum expansion. Your video is much appreciated and your work is very professional as well as your explanation and camera usage. Thank you
I did the same thing for my bathroom remodel tub. It's rock solid.
Awesome!
Very clever system that makes a much more professional installation.
Thank you!
@@MrPostFrame No need for thanks. TH-cam rewards comments and I so I make sure to say something and to share as well. What a job - you are a man among men my friend; family generations will remember your strength of purpose here... It sounds funny, but it's a really massive job that you've take on and are doing very well.
Great tips Paul ...Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for that idea of the tub extension
Thank you! This was exactly what I needed for my tub!
You're Awesome Thank you SOOOOO much I've been waiting to set my tub until I figured out how to get that sprayed under there. Thanks again
Awesome thanks for the comment
Love this idea for multiple reasons. Thanks for sharing.
Great work man, really appreciate the video.
I have used great stuff (spray foam) on all plastic tubs and have never had one crack. I never used ridge foam under the tub along with spray. Put it seems like it would work also. I would buy a case and spray up the sides, front, back then set the tub and secure it to the studs. Then spray all under the tub front to back. Cut off what would squeeze out. And wall it up.. owners would tell me that there baths stayed hotter longer.
Doing good - keep it up
48 yrs experience
Thanks!
What foam do you use? I’m wanting to add this under an existing tub. Thanks!
I only recommend foam for existing tubs. If you're putting in new, regular old mortar any day. It holds up buildings. Just make some width-wide humps taller than the gap underneath, and seat the tub in the mortar. It doesn't have to be fully supported 100%, but enough to stop any and all flexing. It'll squish down and bond like laying bricks. I also recommend ledger boards on all 3 walls to support the ledge and board(s) to support the apron. It'll easily support a 400 lb person after that.
Always great tips and tricks...thank you! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching!
@@MrPostFrame you bet!!
I did some BCA brick + foam with bricks as a side wall. (with a metal fram & legs install, too)--and it is GREAT.thanks
That is a great trick! I'll have to remember that one!
Yeah, but how long before the foam breaks down and you are left with an unsupported tub?
@@corwin5557 worst case scenario, your left without the extra support and the tub is standing like it was originally designed on it's factory support points
Thanks!
Great idea, paul! I knew those pieces of XPS that I saved would be useful for something!
Awesome!
Great video, I wish I had seen this before I did my tub install. Now I have to take the skirt off again and fix it.
Nice work Paul, never thought of that. Seems to work great I'll have to file that idea away.
Thanks!
Do you use a high expansion, moderate expansion foam?
My tub is in a manufactured home. A DYI remodel from a previous owner. They did not put the tub on a solid stable bottom, so the tub creaks and I am concerned about the longevity. I have no access to the underneath of the tub. So... I have decided to drill/saw out 1 inch holes in the base of the tub about 2 inches up from the floow. I will do four holes. I will make the tubing extension (which is a GREAT idea and a big $$ saver) and fill the tub with water and spray the foam. One person at the hardware store suggested that I get under the house and drill holes from underneath. I just thought that idea was a higher risk of poking a hole in the bottom of the tub. When done with the foam, I have white ceramic knobs that will sit in the hole perfectly and make it just look like a decoration. Of course, I will seat them in clear silicone caulking. It has taken me several months to get the courage to do this. I am so very thankful for these videos!
Great info. What does the manufacturer recommend?
Nicely done.
When I did remodeled my master bath the plumber put cement down to create a bed for the fiberglass tub. It worked well. When I redid the another bathroom, the plumber didn't do this and a year later it creaks like crazy. I just tried the spray foam like you did here and it was a big mess. There was probably less than an inch between the tub and floor so I just used the spray foam. However, when spraying the foam, the tube kept popping off from the pressure and foam was coming out before it even before it hit the tube. As a matter of fact the tube that came with the can broke off due to pressure. Home Depot didn't have the 3" filler so I just used the 1". What a mess though. The mess was caused by the tube popping off and the foam leaking out before it even entered the tube. I have foam on my arms and hands and everywhere on the ground. Good thing I had gloves on. Now the bad news-the tub still creaks.
Did you fill the tub with water prior to foaming it? Maybe that's the cause of the continued creaking.
mortar shrinks. this is great.
Awesome ideas
As I mention in your install video, you will enjoy this trick. I spray the outside of the bath before install with a layer and fill it up after install. It will insulates showering sound, keep the bath water longer 🥵 hot and indeed overall give a sturdy feel.
Awesome thanks!
Enjoyed the show
Thank you!
Um. Like, this video just saved my life. Thank you!
Did you do it? How’d it work and hold up?
Thank you for posting
Will this help if there is a crack going down into the drain ? I have chalked it and need to support it like you did in this video . I think mine is plastic or something but not sure
Definitely going in back of the brain filing cabinet.
Awesome!
Makes me feel better I didn’t already as much my dad a plumber told me to be careful not to do to much, it’s definitely inflated a lot more but I think it’s fine
I will be installing a new tub and I will use the foam systems same as you used ....... Thank You
Awesome!
Great idea! Could you share a link to the spray foam?
Here you go! bit.ly/4cMuNcg
Window and door foam are recommended. Great video!
If you are doing this make sure to use the windows and doors spray foam the normal spray foam may expand too much and warp your tub
Good idea 👍
Thanks!
Well done. 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
I have same issue. The very expensive shower kit I bought recommended no mortar bed over wood sub floor and I questioned it. Sure enough now that my shower is installed and new walls are in we’ve used the shower and the floor is soft and makes squeaking noises.
That's a drag.
Same thing with the shower base in our ensuite. I just pulled the one piece shower/tub on the opposite side and will use the Marshall Spray Foam Extension Tube to get some minimal expansion foam sprayed under the shower pan. Then i'll use this trick for the new soaker tub. Hopefully you can remove some drywall and get some spray foam under yours. Squeaking and flexing will lead to cracks down the road, i would think.
Thanks. I was worried about the expansive foam having too much pressure for the tub. The old timers used to use paper meshay (sp?) to fill the iron tubs before they set them.
Thanks for watching!
Don't use foam boards under a tub. One day the weight will compress them and your tub will be uneven. Water will collect in areas and it will be a mold fest.
I bought a house built in 1990. It has 4 bathrooms - all identical. All have the exact same one piece tub and walls - very similar to this video. Three of them have boards underneath supporting the tub. The last one to be installed someone cut corners. Looks like they used leftover foam boards. I am sure it was level when they finished installation, but over the years the tub leans to the non-walled side. This is the least supported side as it is not screwed into anything. Now water collects by the drain. It is hell to keep this tub clean. Inevitably, mold starts growing as it never seems to dry out. The only way to prevent it is to put a fan on it or run a humidifier in the bathroom.
I cut an access panel into the wall and am trying to lift one side of the tub up. Haven't figured out a way yet.
If I had more energy I would rip it out and put something else in.
after a repair of my master shower drain which is above my kitchen. I added a little spray foam such as you are doing to help make the drain joint more ridged. It worked well, but now my water in the shower pan doesn't flow well from the rear and front of the pan to the drain. I have wondered if I need to open the kitchen ceiling again and try to remove some of that foam and use less!
What did you end up doing? Same layout in my home please reply thank you 😇
Canned foam used in a thicker blob than recommended will have some strange results. The foam a few inches back won't have any moisture to cure with, so it will stay liquid, and the bubbles of gas will coalesce into giant pockets. The reason the sides expand out so much is because the center has a lot of hollow spots that pushed the foam out. Best practice for doing this kind of thing would be making the foam board a very tight fit, spraying water back there to begin, then making lines of foam one at a time, giving them a few minutes to expand each time. Even better might be planning ahead and sizing up some squishy foam like neoprene rubber on top of the foam board such that the bottom of the tub can be installed on top of the foam and just smush the assembly a bit.
For the vertical situation (insulating and adding rigidity between the shower wall and the studs), I think it would be great to use normal carpentry practices but with foam board. Buy as much foam board as needed, in whatever sizes needed, to fill that whole gap all the way to the ground, with the foam board taped/glued together. Then just use wood shims with whatever adhesive you've got to make up the remaining distance and keep the foam in tight until the adhesives cure. I don't think the foam board needs to be held in very well, nor does it need to have an air tight bond to the shower wall. Solid sticky foam would technically do better here, but tight foam board would do better than most people would ever want.
Amazing video. I learned a thing or seven!
Thanks for watching!
Could this be done after house is finished? Or idea on what to do after we are completely finished ? We didn't do this and now I feel like our tub "pops".
👍 Great information
Great video!!!. I always hear about the mortar base also as you said in beginning of video. However , you will not find mortar beds in rv's and mobile homes. I'm installing a new neo angle shower pan in rv and will be using this technique.
Thanks, glad it was helpful
Excellent tips
Thanks!
How is the heating system doing??
Working great!
Good suggestions brother
Thanks!
Great video. My situation is that the builder installed an acrylic tub but didn’t attach it to the wall so the tub sags and pulls the caulking apart. I can get access from an access panel for the jacuzzi pump. I’m looking forward to trying this solution. The back wall is exterior stucco so I can’t come at it from the backside.
Sorry you’re having to come up with a solution! This method seems To be holding up well we are in the house using these tubs
I have a similar situation. I'm interested to hear if you ended up doing it.
My bathtub is in the wood frame with tiles on top. They made a wood tower, for every tub leg, to make it higher and screw the towers to the sub floor. The tub itself wasn't attached to anything, except for caulking between the top of the bathtub and tiles. Caulking cracked everywhere, so I had to remove it, but it only made it worse and unstable.
@@Alex-gc2gs Upon further investigation, it looks like my wife bought a "bargin", saved money but will ultimately cost more money. The tub can't be attached to the wall, it's meant to set on a 2 ft high wall. Someday, the whole bathroom will need to be rebuilt.
Does not your tub comes with plywood under it plus the 4 legs if so do u still need this thx
This is what I'm trying to figure out. I have an acrylic one with this and it feels kind of flimsy when it arrived and I sat inside of it.
This is great! I will be doing this in a few days to my tub. But question for you.. if I were to not add this support (or any support) to my fiber glass tub what would happen?
they crack. mine did.
Did you do it? How’s it holding up?
I’ve had to replace one tub and one shower due to cheap fixtures or couples saving water😉. Split right down the middle on both units. I always pre-fill with mortar first. Try small diameter pex pipe next time for the foam.
couples saving water :-))
Haha that's why we had to sturdy this thing up. 😆
Beautiful thanks
My wife and I purchased 12 acres and a brand new manufacturered home. Giant tub and it was barely supported. I took the side panels off and used the remainder of a kit to fill the void . The unexpected benefit is its like a yeti cup now. A hot bath will stay hot longer
How’s it holding up?
Nice work
Thanks!
Thanks so much for this video!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips👍
I just want to be sure, the big gaps and cracks wont raise the tub if you have weight on it?
I have a low spot in an installed tub. Can I use foam under that space to raise it?
Like that idea. I've seen guys glue a plywood piece to the shower wall and sister studs to attach it to the wall. Your plan likely is much quieter.
Thanks!
I installed an acrylic tub on a sub-floor but didn’t strengthen the floor beforehand (just put it where the old tub was). The acrylic tub has “feet” and one or two of the “feet” are squeaking the floor (slight movement). I know I will have to strengthen the floor from underneath (finished ceiling underneath so have to cut some of that down). Question is, how would I strengthen the floor underneath (between the floor joists)?
What about for a mobile home shower tub combo with a small crack going into the drain flange and the drain is in the middle towards the back of the tub :/
Great video, thanks
Thanks for watching!
I couldn't find 1/8" ID tubing at either Lowes, HD or any of the other stores. All they carry is .170" its only .045" more, so what the heck, I tried that. HUGE mistake!!!! the tubing poped off and made a big mess. I was about order some tubing from Amazon, but I really wanted to finish the job today. Then it occurred to me that I had a coil of 1/4" drip irrigation tubing! so I tested that and it worked perfectly! back in business.
Good job.. this info will help us in our remodel..
Awesome!
Are the 5 gallon buckets necessary? I currently have a customer wanting this done. So if you use the filled buckets, spray foam, then remove the buckets after dry, won't that allow a slight gap because once the buckets are lifted out, the tub would elevate slightly again? So wouldn't that create a gap and it will squeek again, getting into a dry shower? I guess I'm debating if the 10 gallons of weight is necessary.
the idea is to hold the tub down so the stuff does not expand and lift the tub, If the tub it screwed to a wall like many alcove tubs then this wont be as much of an issue, but with this, until he "great stuff glued' it down, it didnt have anything holding it. Im curious about the weight it can actually hold before deforming, because if you poke the great stuff foam, or just make a dollop on the floor wait for it for harden then step on it, its deforms rather drastically. Yes it springs back into shape, but in my understanding this movement would be bad.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 ,I have to agree with Rich ..I would not put in any water in tub ..use the less expanding foam blue can not red ..
If you put water in tub it's going to leave gap when water is removed ...
Thanks for making video
Thanks for watching!
I have a tub that makes a lot of noise when it's walked on. I have no way to access under the tub. I think it needs foam board under it. Can I remove it and pack the floor with foam board and then put it back in?
Mine is already installed years ago. I just got a 2’ window to have access to the plumbing. Its recently gotten creaky and theres No base flooring at all under it! Just beams. I’m very shocked. Not sure if i can do this with nothing under it at all.
This is new construction. What would you do for an existing shower unit?
ours cracked less than 6 months after moving into our newly built house. guess they didn't bother supporting the floor before they installed it...🙄😠 we drilled holes in it, sprayed the foam, and let it cure. once it cured, we removed the excess and plugged the holes. they sell repair liners that go over the existing fiberglass floor. you use epoxy to glue it in and now you have a new floor.
Is this the manufacturer recommended technique?
I remember using sand mix.
This looks easy but not cheap.
End of video he says $35 per shower. Even if its $70 per shower is worth it.... working with mortar too much work.
Time over money, need to think differently 👍🏼
Why tf are showers being built with tapered walls instead of straight up and down? I'm a heavy dude and so I'm always cautious with how I place my weight....so why are they making showers that are almost impossible to reinforce flush with a stud/plywood behind it so that I don't cause stress cracks whenever I lean up against the "wall"....it's not a wall like that, it's a shell. -_- an unsupported shell.
big help thank you, warm feet.
You're welcome
Beautiful ,,,,good video
Thank you
You are big boss
Thanks for watching!
Looking good. We are looking at building a similar house. you want to come up to South West Minnesota and build it?
We definitely wish we could figure out a way to travel and build!
@@MrPostFrame get a toy haul RV put all your gear in the back where you haul the toys then get you a covered trailer heavy duty to haul your materials you may have to upgrade the RV to support your equipment
@@MrPostFrame where are you guys located at?
Hahaha...going to be buiding in the Brainerd area next year. Thinking the same thing...lol!
Good idea
Thanks!