Building Stairs | Making the Stair Stringer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 เม.ย. 2020
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#postframe #selfbuild #construction #stairs - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Ive had a number of people try to explain it and use their glorified tools to mark, but that was by far the best explanation I have seen. THANKS!
Stairs are hard for so many! Fantastic tutorial!
This really is a step by step of building an entire house!
Seeing the upstairs was like wow! I am so excited for you.
I’ll be keeping this entire playlist in my TH-cam back pocket for years to come. Everything you need to know for building a house from the ground up is included! Thank you for walking us through your experience! Can’t wait to see the finished product.
Daniel Fluty it’s gonna be nice
I got an anxious excitement when I saw the second floor was ready for subfloors and framing. So glad I found your channel at the beginning. I’m actively searching for counties that allow this I’m WA.
Your template was smart to make. Now you have 15 patterned cuts. As always; insightful for all. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I have always stressed over building stairs and you just made it so much simpler. I will save this video. I have a small stairs to rebuild this summer in our mountain home. (If this covid-19 ever calms down.
Thanks again and stay healthy
To keep the stairs all straight normally we glue and nail the top of the risers to a piece of plywood that matches the rise height and total tread width. Then glue and nail the bottom all together before attaching to the bolted down floor mount. You can then go to the middle and install structural brace blocks between each riser to keep everything perfectly square all the way along the entire staircase.
These look solid but just wanted to say how they teach you to do it at my workplace.
Anyhow, great job I'm loving your videos! Cheers
Thanks for the tips. Appreciate it.
Great work. Very inspiring stuff. Can't wait for each installment to be uploaded.
Thanks so much!
Holy smokes that was a great video! Finally the mystery is gone and I feel comfortable about building stairs. Thank you!
love the idea of the templet bu if you add a piece on top of it you can simply slide it up and down, makes it even easier :)
Good work! It's awesome to see your effort on building it, keep going and inspiring people.
Here's a little tip that will make it even easier. When making your template, instead of cutting the template after drawing your line, attach a scrap piece of 1x lined up with the "cut" side of the line and trim the plywood on the other side of the 1x. That way it will run along the edge easily indexing along the edge of your stringer. Easypeasy......
Hi, not sure if I understand correctly
@@danthechippie4439 As he trace the template he has to line up by eye, the top of the template to the top of the board. He saying if he puts a small flange the template will ride on the top edge of the board so its faster than constantly checking the top of the template lines up. I do the same thing.
Another awesome detailed video! Thank you.
Nice job! One suggestion if you really want to make the stairs solid. Since you have a 1-1/2" gap between the stringer and the wall, run a 2X4 along the bottom edge of the stringer in the gap. It will strengthen the stringer and you can also screw through the stringer and 2X4 and into the wall studs to make a rock solid stairway!
Great idea.
I use a 60 penny nail, through the stringer, the extra 2x4 and into the stud. Angle it down so if any sagging tries to occur it just tightens up.
Love this channel. You do great work!
Nice done!
When using a template for the stair cut-outs, cut a 3" wide piece of plywood about the same length as the long edge of the template. Use a couple of screws to fasten it perpendicular to the long edge of the template so that it can slide along the board to be cut. This makes it easier to position the template for marking the cut-outs.
Really enjoying your channel! Keep up the great work.
From sweden, i love this videos 👌🏼🙏🏻
Nice job man! You're working so clean and organized! 👍
I like the steps tiled back a few degrees. wood sags and wear on the edge. carpet compresse. I also screw a flange on my template so it rides on the lumber.
Nice job. Thank you for your video.
Looks like the beam over the stairs could be a head knocker and maybe a code issue‼️. Little close to the door, couldn't you have eliminated one step, wouldn't have noticed the increase in rise. ENJOY YOUR CHANNEL‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
That beam above the stairs is high enough but we are taking it out now that everything is framed up. I’ll cover that in a future video.
4:02 Pro Tip, clamp a scrap piece of 1X2 on your rise and run numbers on your framing square.
Nice job sir i am enjoying watching your work and the same time i am learning..from Philippines!!
Great job
Awesome
Man buddy, you need some saw horses. Great work.
We have gotten some since!
You're a great instructor. I appreciate you taking the time to explain all this. Thanks.
If you put a cleat on the edge side of that template you can slide it along the edge of the stringer to ensure the accuracy of each step. Also, be sure to crown the stringers before cutting them.
Hello 👋 from Russia. In US, You have very unique construction methods, very interesting to watch as well as very educational, thank you for your effort, I picked up very nice ideas.
Stay safe and I hope your country can overcome this situation with C19
Same to you.
A small "C" clamp and a couple pieces of 1x2 to span your carpender's square will do as well as buttons.
On your templet, you can add a 2"x2" to the diagonal and then you don't have to aline for each step, Just like the lip on a speed square.
was about to suggest the same
Similar with the triangle he cut out. Draw the line, screw a 1x2 (or whatever is handy) along the line. Just have to slide it down to the next step.
OK, 40 other people already mentioned this. Ha! Carry on...
Instead of cutting off the rise/run piece, screw a board on the line you draw so you can slide it on the edge of the board you use for the riser. That way you can slide it and don't have to worry about lining up the edge each time.
You mentioned pins, but "stair gauges" could be a helpful term for new DIYers. Also, you can cut 2 stringers at once to get perfect clones.
Great tutorial for Stairs. The sign of a true carpenter is a great staircase. Tip... I have seen many people attach a 2"X4" to the bottom of each of the stringers. Makes it rock solid. You have a 1/2 wall to help, but thought I pass on the tip anyway
How did you anchor the large beams to the concrete?
On your pattern piece, tack a strip on the long side, so it acts like a speed square.
Nice job.
Great tip. Thanks
Another way I saw Tommy Silva use: Take a small straight piece of 1 x and c-clamp it to your square at the rise and run marks. Just slide it along the stringer. At around 1:45 th-cam.com/video/KwrQWUzzsmw/w-d-xo.html
You can use buttons on your square or a short piece of lumber and 2 small C clamps, and clamp it to the square. Then slide the unit up or down to mark the cut out. The template is great but I would cut it a couple inches wider and screw a short piece of wood under the edge at the line to guide the template as I marked it. You need to get a set of bucks to work on, crawling around on your knees like a baby may be ok now. When you get 40, 50, 60 years old, you are going to wish you had stood up to work. I’ve been on concrete almost all my working life and now I have a pain pump implanted to pump medication to my lower spine to control pain in my hips, knees and legs. It ain’t fun. I like watching you cause you want things to be perfect. Stay safe
i love this, its inspiring me to move to nova scotia and build something similar. your doing an amazing job and its very inspiring. Could you give us an idea of what sort of time frame its going to take you to complete so we have an idea. Also if you are going to install a pool what will it cost lol
My knees are killing me. Where are your saw horses?
Or kneepads ! ! !
he should have 4 sets of sawhorses built by now , he's killing me here !
Build a nice wood slide i seen some pics on some. You could definitely knock that out of the park with your skills.
Did you account for the first and second floor finish floor as well as the subfloor Another 3/4" for the subfloor when dividing the rises? Maybe add 1/2" to 3/4" to the top and bottom trends for hardwood/ carpet?
Why did you decide to use stringer lumber with knots? Maybe it does not matter with 4 stringers, but some of the knots are in the most stressed areas. Love your videos.
I know putting together/editing the videos takes time, but it'd be great if you uploaded more often. 😁 By far one of the most informative building channels I've seen on TH-cam.
An idea for your square instead of the buttons. You could C clamp a 1x3 or 1x4 to the back of your square up against your stair stringer. Then all you need to do is scoot the square down the stringer, marking the rest
It looks great, but I worry about wooden stairs when considering fire escape routes. It appears at this stage that the only way out of the upper level is down these stairs. Wouldn't metal stairs (or metal reinforced) be better? Or is there a second exit route to be built in the future?
9 4 1/8 I would've thought
I checked the comments for this, yes, the math was wrong form 2:20 to 3 minutes mark, he take 9 feet 11 inches and 5/8 minus 7-1/2 inches but still ends up with 9 feet 4 inches and 5/8
Wait a minute, is there an episode I missed? You already have timber on the top floor, how did it get there?
Do you have 8' walls upstairs?
How do you know the length of board you need
Everything I've read about the Barndominium, aka post frame building, or shome or shouse...is that it's a less expensive way to build because of forgoing the digging out of the basement. The studs are spaced 8 feet apart vs the 16" required in traditional framed homes, allowing for less transfer of temperature controlled air to the outside, because the studs are a loss point, whether cold or hot hair. All that said, why isn't the format the standard in the south? Basements are not dug out because the frost line is pretty much non-existent. So there is no reason to dig deep down for footers. The post frame seems superior in that the floor plan is modifiable due to no load bearing walls, no reason for expensive I-beams to have a large open floor plan. Also you have the added cost savings because of energy efficiency. Does anyone know why this isn't more common? I live in Texas and the only place you see this type of build is out in the country on private land, not in any planned communities, nor in any of the cities.
wow subbed ..
👍👍👍👍👍
With the walls insulated with the closed cell, will you be adding in a dense pack of cellulose or fiberglass in the new wall to fill the space and be super energy efficent?
Yes I will.
Would you add the finished floor?
Great job and a masterpiece. One question, when you hook the bottom frame to the floor, do you anchor with bolts? With radiant heating tubes in concrete do you just glue it to the floor?
previous video he said floor heat was 6 inches below floor
John Born
Yeah, he trusts his pour that nothing floated up. I would be scared sh*tless.
Здравствуйте! Мне нравиться. Продолжайте делать такие ролики. Удачи!!!
Is it not that the 16th run does not count so the total space for the run should be divided by 15?
Great work and ideas. Is there a reason you do so much on the floor, when most of us typically use sawhorses to get wood off the floor?
He's still young and has good knees...
33.11 degree is a pretty lazy stair system. I like to shoot for around 36-37 degrees because you feel like you’re actually getting somewhere when your climbing them. Great video tho! 7 1/2” rise and 10” tread is pretty common.
Hey, its Bob Burnquist
I ran into a building code requirement in New York state a number of years ago where you could only have 12 treads without putting in a landing. I don't know if anyone else may have gone through this. One other thing, if your in an area with tornadoes and I suspect you are, you might want to put in the house portion a storm room. In the middle of the night you might not have time to get to the one in the garage.
The residential code for a flight of stairs with out a landing is a total rise of 12’3s. It’s is less for commercial. Some places may have different requirements as well.
It's probably much easier to build two or three horses and work off of them. You did a great job, this is just a suggestion.
Stair gages... also standard treads usually come 11-1/4”.
I like your show & hope you don’t take this the wrong way...
correct with the math
i did it nicely done. I just do drywall
👍👍👍👍👍👍🏠🌻🌻🌻
Clams work OK too
Clamps
Facia acts as a riser
you have made something that is pretty simple, extremely complicated in the way you explain it lol
Not sure why you call your channel "Remodel?"...It's anything but!..:-)
Did I miss one small calculus between total rise, steps counting and rise of a step?
Total rise divideded by wished step size gives you total of steps. Total rise divided by total steps gives you final step rise.
On a 9 ft. rise consider a platform in between. I would not recommend a single run of steps to such heights on main stairways. A matter of comfort and/or design of living spaces. There a good stairways and ugly/bad ones. Inviting ones or boring stairways. A bad point of view is "to save space" or putting the stairway out of sight.
subtracting the riser from your total doesn't make sense, assume you didnt mention half inch of floor thickness??
I know this video is 2 years old, but your total rise without the 16th step is 9'4" 1/8, not 9'4"5/8. If you deduct 7.5", it is 1/8.
because that horned hand, you don't trust your ability and abilities !!!
You could have greatly simplified your measurements by using metric, but then your house would have had a funny accent.
haha
mickey mouse
Это же сколько надо деревьев вырубить чтобы такой большой дом построить ужас какой-то 😭!!! Почему не строите из кирпича или из пенаблоков? Чем столько тратите дерево, и столько денег и времени .