I do this for a living, lots of good advice here, one more tip I always tell new apprentices, before you even look at that tub, vanity, toilet, etc, make sure you know where the main shutoff is first and verify that it works!!! I’ve made that mistake once.
Very good video! Thanks for posting. I have done many of these and I suggest that you remove all the existing drywall above the surround up to the ceiling. Otherwise, you are only saving $4 in sheetrock but will spend way too many hours taping, mudding, sanding, and floating those little seams 1 foot above. Full pieces are much faster, easier, and will look better.
@@Ripcord10 Nope, just the seam. I think it's easier to hide the patching in the corners than in the middle of the wall. Plus there's not a lot of space above the shower and the ceiling to float the seam on the wall. In many renos the wall framing is imperfect or has settled and getting a flush seam is more work than just going to the top, but pick your poison, right? :))
In the fiberglass business. I've cut the one piece tub/shower combo then installed it and did a fiberglass repair, 20 yrs ago, the customer wanted a one piece, reverse what you did. BTW my humble suggestions, wear long sleeves, open window and install fan to pull fiberglass dust out, it will settle on bed sheets etc. lastly cut above the radius of the tub in the wall flat, the fiberglass is usually thicker in the radius and thinner in the wall. I used to make them so I know the habits of the chopper gun operator. Thanks for your great channel.
My friend showed me a great method for cutting out drywall which should work well on surrounds too. Put a blade in your jigsaw, pull it till it’s fully extended, mark a half inch on the blade from the base, take the blade off and snap it on the mark. This will only cut 1/2” deep and won’t damage any wires or pipes, and usually won’t even damage the vapour barrier behind the drywall.
Good trick. I still don't know what to think about these new "oscillator saw's" (Even though they've started going mainstream since like the late 90's.) They're still expensive and have a bit of a "unitasker" element to them. With only a little bit of skill a sauzal and cut sheetrock out without damaging the vapor barrier, OR you can go out on the streets and start cutting random peoples cars in half. Muhahaah
@@TheTarrMan I just got one. Because they are gimmicky I use them every opportunity. They are very handy. Biggest issue is the blades don't last particularly long. I find I am using my sazzall a lot less now. Do you need it? Obviously not. But it replaces a dedicated dry wall tool and is great for in tight and more precise cutting requirements where a jig or sazzall would ordinarily be used.
I recently did this at my parents house. Used my Milwaukee M12 3 inch cut off saw to just go through fiberglass worked great. Also used to cut the drywall out with the dust attachment on it made it so easy. always like watching the videos another great one :).
so coming from someone who does this as a normal job remodeling bathrooms, kitchens, basement finishing... i NEVER take that much drywall off over the old tub surround, the upper flange is only a few inches so i only ever take out as much as needed to lessen how much more i need to install. if your a good drywaller and understand less is better then you know you dont have to sand mud. the rest of the video is super great and if your tiling the entire area or even installing a new surround only remove what you need so you dont have to float too much later and possibly create a hump where the 2 seams come together.
Soon to be first time homebuyer and I can’t thank you enough for your videos! You do a great job of explaining concepts in an easy to understand way and you seem to get ahead of a lot of potential pitfalls that we could encounter. I’ll be sure to use your links as I acquire my home repair tool kit arsenal!! 👊🏻
Excellent information, well detailed and absolutely thorough. I am planning this exact remodel for my own bathroom and I feel more confident tackling this job after watching your videos! Thank you so much!
What a helpful video. I've got a really crappy fiberglass surround though I think it's a two piece. I've been wondering what would be involved in ripping it out and putting in something newer and more sleek, or maybe even a walk-in shower. Honestly though, I'm afraid to see what the floor under the tub looks like.
I agree with all steps, but I 6:26 also use a finishing router (aka palm router) with a small straight bit for most demo cuts on the shower walls. Th router allows for changes in bit depth so you have more control to cut just barely through fiberglass. This decreases risk of hitting anything (romex or pipe) in the wall. Just "one" technique to consider.
very helpful, I have a leak in the water pipe behind the tap from a rat chewing it, gotta take the bath out as all the wood under it has rotted and this is two months after insurance repairs to fix all the dry wall from previous water damage from rats chewing water pipes in the loft. All those pipes are now copper.
Pronounced Knipex (Ny-pex). Good video, short and to the point. Nice tips on not going to deep w/ the sawsall especially showing that Romex run for the room adjacent to the bathroom.
The walls above my bath have tile that I installed 12 years ago and I want to save that tile. I have a heck of a rebuild/remodel in mind for that little bathroom.
We have one of these removed from the house in one piece, I would like to put it behind the garage, plumb it and create an outside bath/shower for our dogs. Any reason this tub won't hold up to the weather? And if so, do you have suggestions as to what I may to do help it hold up to the weather. I live in Northeastern Iowa, so....some fairly long, cold winters.
So I have a huge chunk of fiberglass missing so ima try and save the bottom part of my tub because it’s fine it’s the big slices in the edge of the tub that I have to repair or I can glue the fiberglass slices together and use it until i can afford to finish it
This kit might help you out and depending on how large the crack is you might want to get 2 kits amzn.to/3ZNArVn and here is me using this kit to fill some holes th-cam.com/video/4V0Xn83dzBE/w-d-xo.html
I live in a double wide trailer & I'm curious because I have one that needs to be replaced, it has no access panel & I had to remove the wall in laundry room to access the pipes but we can't find a turnoff valve for it.
I turned down a job to replace 750 of these back in 1985. These units all failed due to improper support underneath. The apartment complex wanted me to make a mold to build 400 left & 400 right replacements that measured 58 3/4" wide so the drywall did not have to be disturbed, remove the old units & install the new. I could have made a great profit of $160,000 but good labor was difficult to find back then & one person could not complete this job in a timely manor without disrupting the occupied apartments.
This is what I want to do to our bathroom but we are on a slab foundation. I could see plywood subfloor when you took the bottom part out. Any tips on connecting the plumbing to the new tub? In your experience would I have to jackhammer the floor out? Thanks. Great video as always!
Hey Sam, that would depend on the condition of your drain line. If the drain still looks solid you could reuse or alternatively you could do all the other work and get things torn down to what I showed at the end of the video then call in a plumber just to replace the Shower valve (I prefer Delta) and the drain line. For me I could install the tub and then start working the water lines, valves, and drains. Best of luck!
2 more cents worth. This might not be as big of an issue as you think. The existing drain is most often not in the exact right place for new tub. Plumbers I use routinely cut/hammer out enough to install new p-trap and drain connector to new tub specs. Mixing a bag of cement and smoothing over after is pretty simple/easy. And most shower/conversion drains actually require a 5” opening left around the drain anyway, so you just use 5” of duct, or whatever and pour cement up to that.
Good video, I checked the tools link, but I didn't see a recommended oscillating tool. What do you guys recommend for an oscillating tool? Thank you! 👍👍👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I am from North Jersey, is that I was just surprised, not seeing sheet rock or insulation behind that wall. Because my house was built in the 50's, with the bathroom having sheet rock walls with tile. I guess things were done differently back then. You never know what's behind the wall until you start taking it down.
Does the additional drywall have to come out? Or can I just cut along the edge of the surround? We are tearing out a tub like this, capping off the plumbing and converting the space to linen storage. Thanks!
In 1987 I installed almost the exact same tub in my first house. Looking at the video I cant help but to think how dated this tub looks. Makes me wonder if the one I installed is still in tact.
I have the exact unit in my 1980s built condo that has a small chip I want to repair but can’t find the color match (not gold, more of a sandy taupe) and I want to replace the spline in the glass doors due to mold but nobody knows how to assist. Any suggestions, friends?
I want to update the look of this bathroom and although I have tried the Rustoleum Refinish Kit but I'm not a big fan so I am going with the Delta 400 Series Multi-piece surround which has worked well for multiple projects in the past without breaking the bank.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks and good thoughts. I ask cause I have a one piece in a rental with some holes in the tub part. I don’t think they go all the way through as there has been no leaks yet but I don’t know if I should try and fix it or just replace like you just did. Your tub looked pretty old, mine is just 12 years old. I may look at the rustoleum kit you mentioned. Thanks for the video and getting back to me.
I like to use a Sawzall or Hackzall blade I custom to a super short length that goes only a 1/2 or 3/4 inch deep into the drywall and other surfaces like shower stalls. No cut wires or pipes. There are a few vids on YT showing this.
My 1970s tub fiber glass was just irritating every inch of my skin. I had to get a full body suit. Also the drain was rusted underneath and I didn’t have to unscrew it
I removed my tub and shower surround and the hot and cold water pipes are not recessed between the studs, they stick out, can you tile around them without moving the pipes to a different area? Plus they are in concrete slab.
Take all the corner bead off cause most beads wont match up & it looks ugly. As for the window wall i would cut 4" from the shower so you didn't need to remove the trim that just makes more work out of a simple repair. Dont just texture the repair, After texturing the repair let that dry then re texture the entire room for consistency of the spray pattern. Great vid
Maybe it was me or I was lucky. I removed 2 tub's like this and I didn't do any drywall cutting. I just cut along the ridge of the tubs at top and then cut down about 4 inches on the walls all the way around. Then made cuts about every 3 feet. Then just pulled/pried these sections out and had room to get/grab the bigger the pieces. Then did the cuts like in the video down the sides, ect. Just pulled the pieces out. No messy drywall work. That is if the new units are going to be same height as old units.
7:57 Is there a way to tell if I have a “tub” under a liner. My shower/tub looks exactly like that one. But I’m wondering if it is covering another/original tub.
I have a showenow surround is there easy way to find studs so I can mount a grab bar? now I use a suction cup type from Amazon they work ok but have to reset them a lot thanks
Not a removal question but , since I trust your judgment, what do you recommend for cleaning a fiberglass tub? Don't want to tear up the finish. Appreciate any advice. Thx.
2:41 @everyday home repairs Nah, I’d just tell ppl to go buy one. Can get from dept, lowes, Amazon, etc…and they not expensive at all. Can also make your life so much easier, a tool; I’d definitely buy and out in my plumbing tool box😉 Glad didn’t have to cut that drain out, cuz when they seized…..they seized 😅 Cheers✌🏻
i was like "no way im not bringing in the 14 inch hot saw for this!" you know... bathroom fan should be enough. right? made 2 cuts and got completely gassed out. fumes and not to mention glass dust. ended my day in that room. ill run the recip today lol.
Thanks for the video. My son wants me to help with his bathroom tub tile. The tiles go all the way to the ceiling in the tub. Would you put a tub surround over it or should we remove all the tiles? He is on a tight budget. I also reviewed a product that you can coat over the tile and tub. Any thoughts on that type of product?
I am surprised you remove the whole with so little mess. I thought it would take more effort to demolish and thus be messy. I didn’t know the walls are that easy to remove 👍
This is one of my own properties so there was no labor being billed out. Here is the complete video with cost breakdown on materials at the end. th-cam.com/video/FY_1OIKIRpA/w-d-xo.html
You may not be able to take it out of the house in one piece, but why not take it out of it's current location in one piece? Even if it's a small bathroom you should have enough floor space to pull it away from the wall. Then you don't have to worry about hitting anything behind it.
For a bath/shower replacement $1,500 wouldn't even pay the labor cost for a $120/hour plumber. That's probably why most plumbers hate pex and sharkbite fittings. Losing business.
I do this for a living, lots of good advice here, one more tip I always tell new apprentices, before you even look at that tub, vanity, toilet, etc, make sure you know where the main shutoff is first and verify that it works!!! I’ve made that mistake once.
Very good video! Thanks for posting. I have done many of these and I suggest that you remove all the existing drywall above the surround up to the ceiling. Otherwise, you are only saving $4 in sheetrock but will spend way too many hours taping, mudding, sanding, and floating those little seams 1 foot above. Full pieces are much faster, easier, and will look better.
I am so glad I read this comment. You just saved me from a lot of work that I don't like doing.
Don’t you have to tap and mud the ceiling then?
@@Ripcord10 Nope, just the seam. I think it's easier to hide the patching in the corners than in the middle of the wall. Plus there's not a lot of space above the shower and the ceiling to float the seam on the wall. In many renos the wall framing is imperfect or has settled and getting a flush seam is more work than just going to the top, but pick your poison, right? :))
Unless you have vaulted ceilings.
In the fiberglass business. I've cut the one piece tub/shower combo then installed it and did a fiberglass repair, 20 yrs ago, the customer wanted a one piece, reverse what you did. BTW my humble suggestions, wear long sleeves, open window and install fan to pull fiberglass dust out, it will settle on bed sheets etc. lastly cut above the radius of the tub in the wall flat, the fiberglass is usually thicker in the radius and thinner in the wall. I used to make them so I know the habits of the chopper gun operator. Thanks for your great channel.
Good stuff man, I really appreciate the feedback. 👍
My friend showed me a great method for cutting out drywall which should work well on surrounds too. Put a blade in your jigsaw, pull it till it’s fully extended, mark a half inch on the blade from the base, take the blade off and snap it on the mark. This will only cut 1/2” deep and won’t damage any wires or pipes, and usually won’t even damage the vapour barrier behind the drywall.
Good trick. I still don't know what to think about these new "oscillator saw's" (Even though they've started going mainstream since like the late 90's.) They're still expensive and have a bit of a "unitasker" element to them.
With only a little bit of skill a sauzal and cut sheetrock out without damaging the vapor barrier, OR you can go out on the streets and start cutting random peoples cars in half. Muhahaah
That’s common sense. Most of the population has none, they’re just over educated
makita (xdz01z)makes a drywall tool that does that if you do enough to validate the cost
Loop
@@TheTarrMan I just got one. Because they are gimmicky I use them every opportunity. They are very handy. Biggest issue is the blades don't last particularly long. I find I am using my sazzall a lot less now. Do you need it? Obviously not. But it replaces a dedicated dry wall tool and is great for in tight and more precise cutting requirements where a jig or sazzall would ordinarily be used.
Your channel, by far, is one of the best DIY homeowner channel out there. Thanx so much for the great content!!
Thanks for the feedback and appreciate your support
I recently did this at my parents house. Used my Milwaukee M12 3 inch cut off saw to just go through fiberglass worked great. Also used to cut the drywall out with the dust attachment on it made it so easy. always like watching the videos another great one :).
Thanks for the feedback Chris 👍
3:00 this guy wins. Expert advice that other videos have lacked.
You can remove a tub drain using the handles of a pair of pliers or channel locks.
Thank you for posting this. It seems super simple because you explain every detail. That is what i needed, exactly.
Happy to help!
so coming from someone who does this as a normal job remodeling bathrooms, kitchens, basement finishing... i NEVER take that much drywall off over the old tub surround, the upper flange is only a few inches so i only ever take out as much as needed to lessen how much more i need to install. if your a good drywaller and understand less is better then you know you dont have to sand mud. the rest of the video is super great and if your tiling the entire area or even installing a new surround only remove what you need so you dont have to float too much later and possibly create a hump where the 2 seams come together.
Soon to be first time homebuyer and I can’t thank you enough for your videos! You do a great job of explaining concepts in an easy to understand way and you seem to get ahead of a lot of potential pitfalls that we could encounter. I’ll be sure to use your links as I acquire my home repair tool kit arsenal!! 👊🏻
Hey Allen, congrats on the home purchase! Appreciate your support and all the best on the upcoming projects 🙌
Excellent information, well detailed and absolutely thorough. I am planning this exact remodel for my own bathroom and I feel more confident tackling this job after watching your videos! Thank you so much!
Great video! I just bought a cheap (inexpensive) orthoscopic camera that works with my phone. Great for looking behind walls for Romex and pipes!
Another good vid. More info for my back pocket!
Right on!
What a helpful video. I've got a really crappy fiberglass surround though I think it's a two piece. I've been wondering what would be involved in ripping it out and putting in something newer and more sleek, or maybe even a walk-in shower. Honestly though, I'm afraid to see what the floor under the tub looks like.
Good timing for me personally with a video on this project. I'm planning to do the same thing. Thank you.
Nice, get after it! Bang for the buck this is one of the best things you can do for your home's value.
I agree with all steps, but I 6:26 also use a finishing router (aka palm router) with a small straight bit for most demo cuts on the shower walls. Th router allows for changes in bit depth so you have more control to cut just barely through fiberglass. This decreases risk of hitting anything (romex or pipe) in the wall. Just "one" technique to consider.
very helpful, I have a leak in the water pipe behind the tap from a rat chewing it, gotta take the bath out as all the wood under it has rotted and this is two months after insurance repairs to fix all the dry wall from previous water damage from rats chewing water pipes in the loft. All those pipes are now copper.
Pronounced Knipex (Ny-pex).
Good video, short and to the point. Nice tips on not going to deep w/ the sawsall especially showing that Romex run for the room adjacent to the bathroom.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks professor
Well Mikey, it wasn’t spelling or grammar it was correction of pronunciation. Thanks for ur input though.
Thanks, this is almost the exact same tub surround that I will have to remove for my project. Answered all of my questions.
Good timing, I'm starting a bathroom remodel today! Thanks.
The walls above my bath have tile that I installed 12 years ago and I want to save that tile.
I have a heck of a rebuild/remodel in mind for that little bathroom.
Very, very helpful, thanks for posting this.
needle nose pliers and a crescent wrench (or another pair of pliers) also work for the drain. :)
Thanks for the additional feedback 👍
Commenting before the title is even updated. Nice vid!
😂 now that is fast!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Looking forward to the next vid. This is something I need to do…and $1,500 sounds like the right price.
Perfect timing with this. Will be my September project of this year. Thanks for the great info and video to come.
more to come 👍
We have one of these removed from the house in one piece, I would like to put it behind the garage, plumb it and create an outside bath/shower for our dogs. Any reason this tub won't hold up to the weather? And if so, do you have suggestions as to what I may to do help it hold up to the weather. I live in Northeastern Iowa, so....some fairly long, cold winters.
🤗GREAT SCOTT 😁…ADVISE FOR SHARING WITH ALL AND ALWAYS WE LOVE ❤️ TOOLS TO MAKE THE JOBS EASIER
👍😍😍😍
Looking forward to seeing this bathroom remodel completed!
A lot of video coming a various parts of the project and then one massive video on the whole project 👍
Great fookin job lad! Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Thanks Michael!
HELLO SIR! Please tell me you have a part 2! This is exacy what i need to do, but i have no idea how to REPLACE it! PLEASE!!
Great video. Ready for demo and bathroom #2 redo!
Get after it 👊
Excellent video! Thanks!
Super pumped on this series. As always great content 👌 👏 👍
Thanks! Appreciate your support 🙌
Best time to install wall insulation, especially on the exterior wall, since the builder forgot it.
So I have a huge chunk of fiberglass missing so ima try and save the bottom part of my tub because it’s fine it’s the big slices in the edge of the tub that I have to repair or I can glue the fiberglass slices together and use it until i can afford to finish it
This kit might help you out and depending on how large the crack is you might want to get 2 kits amzn.to/3ZNArVn and here is me using this kit to fill some holes th-cam.com/video/4V0Xn83dzBE/w-d-xo.html
I live in a double wide trailer & I'm curious because I have one that needs to be replaced, it has no access panel & I had to remove the wall in laundry room to access the pipes but we can't find a turnoff valve for it.
Great video. That bathroom and old tub surround is identical to the one in my home that is about to get yanked out.
Makita owner 👍. You got my attention
👊
I turned down a job to replace 750 of these back in 1985. These units all failed due to improper support underneath. The apartment complex wanted me to make a mold to build 400 left & 400 right replacements that measured 58 3/4" wide so the drywall did not have to be disturbed, remove the old units & install the new. I could have made a great profit of $160,000 but good labor was difficult to find back then & one person could not complete this job in a timely manor without disrupting the occupied apartments.
Have one coming up thanks for making the video
Best of luck on the remodel 👍
This is what I want to do to our bathroom but we are on a slab foundation. I could see plywood subfloor when you took the bottom part out. Any tips on connecting the plumbing to the new tub? In your experience would I have to jackhammer the floor out? Thanks. Great video as always!
Hey Sam, that would depend on the condition of your drain line. If the drain still looks solid you could reuse or alternatively you could do all the other work and get things torn down to what I showed at the end of the video then call in a plumber just to replace the Shower valve (I prefer Delta) and the drain line. For me I could install the tub and then start working the water lines, valves, and drains. Best of luck!
2 more cents worth. This might not be as big of an issue as you think. The existing drain is most often not in the exact right place for new tub. Plumbers I use routinely cut/hammer out enough to install new p-trap and drain connector to new tub specs. Mixing a bag of cement and smoothing over after is pretty simple/easy. And most shower/conversion drains actually require a 5” opening left around the drain anyway, so you just use 5” of duct, or whatever and pour cement up to that.
Normally there is a boxed out area where the drain comes out of the floor. Dig out some fill and realign the new drain.No bigge!
Great work thank you for great explanation
Good video, I checked the tools link, but I didn't see a recommended oscillating tool. What do you guys recommend for an oscillating tool? Thank you! 👍👍👍
This is the one in the video and has served me well over the past 12 months www.amazon.com/dp/B07RWRXVC3/
Wow! Pretty easy, nice, and clean to avoid any mistakes. So must be a very old house with no sheetrock behind that plastic.
In my area this is the common method for installing the surrounds. Sounds like you guys do it different? Where are you located?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I am from North Jersey, is that I was just surprised, not seeing sheet rock or insulation behind that wall. Because my house was built in the 50's, with the bathroom having sheet rock walls with tile. I guess things were done differently back then. You never know what's behind the wall until you start taking it down.
Does the additional drywall have to come out? Or can I just cut along the edge of the surround? We are tearing out a tub like this, capping off the plumbing and converting the space to linen storage. Thanks!
Well done! Thanks.
Great video! Thank you sir.
When a three piece glued in tub surround is removed does the dry behind need to be replaced. This dry wall probably has glued all over it. Thanks
In 1987 I installed almost the exact same tub in my first house. Looking at the video I cant help but to think how dated this tub looks. Makes me wonder if the one I installed is still in tact.
I have the exact unit in my 1980s built condo that has a small chip I want to repair but can’t find the color match (not gold, more of a sandy taupe) and I want to replace the spline in the glass doors due to mold but nobody knows how to assist. Any suggestions, friends?
You can use needle nose pliers to remove drain
Why did you remove the surround? Just curious on your thought process vs fixing it.
I want to update the look of this bathroom and although I have tried the Rustoleum Refinish Kit but I'm not a big fan so I am going with the Delta 400 Series Multi-piece surround which has worked well for multiple projects in the past without breaking the bank.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks and good thoughts. I ask cause I have a one piece in a rental with some holes in the tub part. I don’t think they go all the way through as there has been no leaks yet but I don’t know if I should try and fix it or just replace like you just did. Your tub looked pretty old, mine is just 12 years old. I may look at the rustoleum kit you mentioned. Thanks for the video and getting back to me.
What if you want to add a window in the enclosure for natural light? My bathroom dosent have a window
I like to use a Sawzall or Hackzall blade I custom to a super short length that goes only a 1/2 or 3/4 inch deep into the drywall and other surfaces like shower stalls. No cut wires or pipes. There are a few vids on YT showing this.
Nice, I considered doing the same and think that is a smart idea to avoid issues. Thanks for the feedback 👍
My 1970s tub fiber glass was just irritating every inch of my skin. I had to get a full body suit. Also the drain was rusted underneath and I didn’t have to unscrew it
I removed my tub and shower surround and the hot and cold water pipes are not recessed between the studs, they stick out, can you tile around them without moving the pipes to a different area? Plus they are in concrete slab.
Take all the corner bead off cause most beads wont match up & it looks ugly. As for the window wall i would cut 4" from the shower so you didn't need to remove the trim that just makes more work out of a simple repair. Dont just texture the repair, After texturing the repair let that dry then re texture the entire room for consistency of the spray pattern. Great vid
Maybe it was me or I was lucky. I removed 2 tub's like this and I didn't do any drywall cutting. I just cut along the ridge of the tubs at top and then cut down about 4 inches on the walls all the way around. Then made cuts about every 3 feet. Then just pulled/pried these sections out and had room to get/grab the bigger the pieces. Then did the cuts like in the video down the sides, ect. Just pulled the pieces out. No messy drywall work. That is if the new units are going to be same height as old units.
Great video. 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
7:57 Is there a way to tell if I have a “tub” under a liner. My shower/tub looks exactly like that one. But I’m wondering if it is covering another/original tub.
I've ponder that once or twice, but if we are wrong..... we will be okay!
I have a showenow surround is there easy way to find studs so I can mount a grab bar? now I use a suction cup type from Amazon they work ok but have to reset them a lot thanks
Not a removal question but , since I trust your judgment, what do you recommend for cleaning a fiberglass tub? Don't want to tear up the finish. Appreciate any advice. Thx.
Great job bro !
Well done 👍
Awesome! Thanks so much!!!
Great video
Thanks!
125mmm grinder with diamond blade cuts fiberglass baths and showers with much less risk of clipping anything behind
2:41 @everyday home repairs
Nah, I’d just tell ppl to go buy one. Can get from dept, lowes, Amazon, etc…and they not expensive at all. Can also make your life so much easier, a tool; I’d definitely buy and out in my plumbing tool box😉
Glad didn’t have to cut that drain out, cuz when they seized…..they seized 😅
Cheers✌🏻
Great video! Btw I think the K is silent in Knipex lol
I think you are correct 👍
i was like "no way im not bringing in the 14 inch hot saw for this!" you know... bathroom fan should be enough. right? made 2 cuts and got completely gassed out. fumes and not to mention glass dust. ended my day in that room. ill run the recip today lol.
My grandparents had that exact tub surround in their house. Same ugly color too.
It’s in my house too, built in the 1980’s. Watching these videos to finally remove the ugly harvest gold fiberglass bathtub!
That yellow tub had years more wear, lol.
Outstanding
Thanks for the video. My son wants me to help with his bathroom tub tile. The tiles go all the way to the ceiling in the tub. Would you put a tub surround over it or should we remove all the tiles? He is on a tight budget. I also reviewed a product that you can coat over the tile and tub. Any thoughts on that type of product?
Typical the surround is installed directly to the bare studs, I don't think it would fit with the tile/drywall still there
Good video!
How do you remove a 3 piece surround? Cant find any info on it.
So what happens when you turn the main water back on? I'm afraid water will spew everywhere!
Be sure save the glass door rail/ track... That's pure gold! 🪙
Money, money, money............MONEY!
It works quite well as a straight edge actually
I am surprised you remove the whole with so little mess. I thought it would take more effort to demolish and thus be messy. I didn’t know the walls are that easy to remove 👍
Now that you took out the old shower, how about a video on putting the new surround in? Please....
Shut off water main and go at it with a sawsall. Fastest easiest way way to get this done
How about part 2 installing a new unit?
You can see behind the tub surround with your cell phone (camera)and a good flashlight
Gloves
Hey, just a heads up, 3 on your links are not working
Thanks Andy, actually just updated everything and appreciate the help!
What did ya charge for this job completed with new
This is one of my own properties so there was no labor being billed out. Here is the complete video with cost breakdown on materials at the end. th-cam.com/video/FY_1OIKIRpA/w-d-xo.html
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks
You may not be able to take it out of the house in one piece, but why not take it out of it's current location in one piece? Even if it's a small bathroom you should have enough floor space to pull it away from the wall. Then you don't have to worry about hitting anything behind it.
waiting for new bath ideas
tool list doesn't work
on mobile safari browser
The Amazon link doesn't work on my PC either.
Thanks for the heads up here is the corrected link www.amazon.com/shop/everydayhomerepairs
Can you come to my house and show me how to do this???😏😂😂I want to redo mine.
For a bath/shower replacement $1,500 wouldn't even pay the labor cost for a $120/hour plumber. That's probably why most plumbers hate pex and sharkbite fittings. Losing business.
Makita doesn't make a Sawzall. They do have a nice reciprocating saw, which is just like the one you used 😉
😁
🤓✌️🖖👌👍😎
I don't want to sound like like a safety geek, but gloves please when handling fiberglass.
As the homeowner, I would not want you to remove the window trim and sill. I'm sure the job could have been done without destroying that.
Nor will any of this be used to help humanity
Sorry but I just can’t trust anyone with makita tools. Great video though!
I am feeling Dewalt vibes 😂