Don't use regular grease, this will cause any rubber seals and covers to swell and break down over time. Only use silicone based grease on the outside of the caliper, it should never be used on the inside. Only use brake fluid and specific break fluid grease, Internally if needed.
Hello. I did this same repair just recently, and since nothing ever never goes with your first try; twice :) ! After doing my background research of + 6 hours on TH-cam and doing the job, twice; Here is my take: If the piston is badly seized, remove the caliper aside from the disk and pump the brake to use brute hydraulic pressure to remove the cylinder. The fluid inside is about 0,5 dl... ish, and will spill if and when the outer dust- sealing is removed. Another way to remove the cylinder is to remove the caliper and wiggle the handbrake lever repeatedly. Now, the critical seal is only the sealing ring, its female groove and the surface of the piston. I polished the piston by attaching it on a wooden peg and rotating it in a drill. A mild abrasive pad and toothpaste did the job. Cleaned the grooves in the cylinder, which was tricky since they were badly corroded and should not be scratched (well, the problem was not a leak to begin with, the outer dust- seal was not set properly, hence the piston had corroded or gotten dirty at the inner seal, and not returned back in, so the brake was dragging). Anyway; Bought the repair set for the inner and outer seal (which included some other seals also (about 18 Euro) ). They looked a tiiiiiny bit smaller, but hey, replacement parts... Bought silicone grease to set the groove for the seals, to coat the sealing ring and lightly coat the piston for installing. YOU DO NOT need a special tool to install the cylinder back in. But you have to TWIST and press it at the same time. Installed it all. Bleed the brakes. Looking good, until I pressed the brake pedal hard with the engine on. It spat the oil out. Yes !!! There are two sizes of seals for WV, 41mm and 38mm. Guess if I got the right one ?? Hence repeat, as excepted, but still pissed, you know ... ;) . Well, now with my correct 41 mm seal, seems like success, even after hard test braking. The brake releases as should.
About installing the piston, because I don't the right press for this kind piston, I used a grinder key to rotate the piston into place. Without pressing it, just at the beginning, to match the threads. It is ok? When the piston got on the parking brake screw, it wasn't necessary to press anymore because the piston went nicely on its place
when new brake pads are installed, do the pistons need to be adjusted? i put in new pads and discs however the handbrake doesn't work now because the pistons don't come out far enough 🤷. thank you
When you install new pads you need to pump the brake pedal until you get the correct "feel" back into the pedal - this is when the piston has properly contacted the pads. You should then also pump the handbrake lever to ensure the slack in the cable has been taken up (in vehicles, like the VWs, which use the rear caliper pistons for the handbrake).
maybe change all the internal seals? also, is it possible to polish the inside of the brake caliper walls with 1200 sandpaper to make them smooth again? something is causing the difficulty of moving the piston, I just cant figure out what it is.
Aaarrggh !!!!!!! ⚠️Use red rubber grease ONLY. And it looks like you trapped the dust cover in the cylinder that's why it's still stiff plus the non rubber grease will have swelled the seal !!
@@alandawson3345 At the prices the pro's charge, I can fix it 3 times and it will still be cheaper. Worth gaining the knowledge, which will pay in the long run. All the pro's start as newbies don't they?...
I did something like this to my mk5 jetta about 7 years ago and haven't had a problem with it since!! it wasn't hard to do qnd didn't cost me a penny so maybe it would have been easier to just buy a new one but it definitely wouldn't have been cheaper lmao
@@TheTruth-ht7qm what? Decide quite clearly that this person is an idiot who cuts corners and hasn't corrected the issues with his caliper because he's not been very thorough and clean and worked correctly? Yeah I think he's 100% right to say what he did. If you are stupid and don't value your life, follow this video. If you do value the importance of brakes and lives, watch anyone of the other golf rear caliper rebuild videos. They are mostly very good. This is shockingly bad.
![ภาพนี้ก็ฮาเหมือนกันนะเนี้ย #2 SS8 [ พากย์นรก MEME.EXE ] | easy boy](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RMhUgxxD49Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't use regular grease, this will cause any rubber seals and covers to swell and break down over time. Only use silicone based grease on the outside of the caliper, it should never be used on the inside. Only use brake fluid and specific break fluid grease, Internally if needed.
Hello. I did this same repair just recently, and since nothing ever never goes with your first try; twice :) !
After doing my background research of + 6 hours on TH-cam and doing the job, twice; Here is my take:
If the piston is badly seized, remove the caliper aside from the disk and pump the brake to use brute hydraulic pressure to remove the cylinder. The fluid inside is about 0,5 dl... ish, and will spill if and when the outer dust- sealing is removed.
Another way to remove the cylinder is to remove the caliper and wiggle the handbrake lever repeatedly.
Now, the critical seal is only the sealing ring, its female groove and the surface of the piston. I polished the piston by attaching it on a wooden peg and rotating it in a drill. A mild abrasive pad and toothpaste did the job. Cleaned the grooves in the cylinder, which was tricky since they were badly corroded and should not be scratched (well, the problem was not a leak to begin with, the outer dust- seal was not set properly, hence the piston had corroded or gotten dirty at the inner seal, and not returned back in, so the brake was dragging).
Anyway; Bought the repair set for the inner and outer seal (which included some other seals also (about 18 Euro) ). They looked a tiiiiiny bit smaller, but hey, replacement parts... Bought silicone grease to set the groove for the seals, to coat the sealing ring and lightly coat the piston for installing.
YOU DO NOT need a special tool to install the cylinder back in. But you have to TWIST and press it at the same time.
Installed it all. Bleed the brakes. Looking good, until I pressed the brake pedal hard with the engine on. It spat the oil out. Yes !!! There are two sizes of seals for WV, 41mm and 38mm. Guess if I got the right one ?? Hence repeat, as excepted, but still pissed, you know ... ;) .
Well, now with my correct 41 mm seal, seems like success, even after hard test braking. The brake releases as should.
About installing the piston, because I don't the right press for this kind piston, I used a grinder key to rotate the piston into place. Without pressing it, just at the beginning, to match the threads. It is ok? When the piston got on the parking brake screw, it wasn't necessary to press anymore because the piston went nicely on its place
Brilliant thanks 😎
Always problem with rear calipers. I had same problem with touran. Those new TRW would do the job
when new brake pads are installed, do the pistons need to be adjusted? i put in new pads and discs however the handbrake doesn't work now because the pistons don't come out far enough 🤷. thank you
When you install new pads you need to pump the brake pedal until you get the correct "feel" back into the pedal - this is when the piston has properly contacted the pads. You should then also pump the handbrake lever to ensure the slack in the cable has been taken up (in vehicles, like the VWs, which use the rear caliper pistons for the handbrake).
maybe change all the internal seals?
also, is it possible to polish the inside of the brake caliper walls with 1200 sandpaper to make them smooth again?
something is causing the difficulty of moving the piston, I just cant figure out what it is.
The cylinder walls are not critical. The piston should be shiny smooth.
I remove the disc and bolt the caliper back on easier to wind back th piston.
I got one sized now bent the T bar on my tool already 😂
The thread my friend . Clean the thread inside the piston.😓
Aaarrggh !!!!!!!
⚠️Use red rubber grease ONLY.
And it looks like you trapped the dust cover in the cylinder that's why it's still stiff plus the non rubber grease will have swelled the seal !!
Your Golf is constantly broken :)
No surprise he does not know how to fix it properly, and should leave it to people with the correct knowledge and training.
@@alandawson3345 At the prices the pro's charge, I can fix it 3 times and it will still be cheaper. Worth gaining the knowledge, which will pay in the long run. All the pro's start as newbies don't they?...
Put it in a vice .
Easier and cheaper (long term) to just buy remanufactured ones and trade your old ones in because if it is still that hard to turn, it's still fooked
I did something like this to my mk5 jetta about 7 years ago and haven't had a problem with it since!! it wasn't hard to do qnd didn't cost me a penny so maybe it would have been easier to just buy a new one but it definitely wouldn't have been cheaper lmao
Painful to watch.get a vice
it doesn't inspire confidence in me. He's grumpy, insecure, he's dirty. He has an insecurity issue
@@eusebiutihan5048 What a Judgmental child you are. Is this how you go thru Life
@@TheTruth-ht7qm what? Decide quite clearly that this person is an idiot who cuts corners and hasn't corrected the issues with his caliper because he's not been very thorough and clean and worked correctly? Yeah I think he's 100% right to say what he did. If you are stupid and don't value your life, follow this video. If you do value the importance of brakes and lives, watch anyone of the other golf rear caliper rebuild videos. They are mostly very good. This is shockingly bad.
Shite.
Muka je i gledati te. Kupi stegu pa stegni i zavijaj.