Diagnosing & Replacing a 2014 VW Golf Rear Brake Caliper With Electronic Handbrake
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.พ. 2023
- In this video we have a partially seizing rear brake caliper. Usually a straight forward repair however this particular vehicle has an electronic parking brake and the rear caliper shave a built in electronic motor.
I’ll be walking you through step by step diagnostics, what do & what not to do during the process for a successful repair.
Thanks for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe.
Brilliantly instructed mate. These electronic hand brakes are a pain. But you did a great job! 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you such a positive comment. Really happy you enjoyed and thank you for your support 👍
Replaced both rear calipers last week. I reused the original parking brake motors on the new calipers. First caliper done no issue, second one took about 25 mins. I then did a brake fluid change. I'll get the old original calipers refurbished as a back up, but there seems to be few of the old school places left to do these tasks only now replaced by people refurbishing by way of painting calipers....
That’s a detailed description of the process that any amateur could learn from. The difference in regards to the washers have to do with unrestricted fluid flow through the banjo bolt, which wasn’t necessary as the new copper ones show.
Very good video, thanks!
Great work. Great orator.
Excellent information just what i was looking for thanks
Thank of getting in touch. Really appreciate the positive feedback and your on going support
Thanks for the video. Over the last couple of days I have been replacing the pads and discs (front and rear) on my son's 2016 Fiesta ST. This has a manual handbrake so no EPB complications. On one of the rears despite winding the piston fully back the new pads were binding on the disc. Problem turned out to be a seized slider pin - completely rusted up with no sign of any lubricant. A good clean up and some copper slip sorted it.
You’re more than welcome. Always have to watch out for those sliders, very easy to over look which as you’ve found can cause so many issues. Glad this video helped and thank you for your support. 👍
Very well made tutorial. Thanks a lot.
Always appreciate positive feedback. Thanks for getting in touch and for your support
I enjoyed watching the video - I've got a binding rear right side caliper (MOT failure) and need to replace it. I don't have a diagnostics tool, but the last time I had to change the pads I applied 12v to the two pins inside the connector female socket on the caliper (there's a video somewhere on TH-cam that shows how to do it) to retract the piston, and then pushed in the piston the last bit until it was flush with the housing. As someone said, it's probably not a problem if you plan to fit a new caliper (like I do, along with new disks and pads), as you can just use the Parking Brake switch inside (after bleeding) to push out the piston and re-seat the pads. I'm definitely thinking about getting a pressurized bleeder though, it looks a lot simpler and you don't then need a helper inside pressing the pedal. Good Job with the video! 👍
Fab and very, very comprehensive. I've a GTD with a slightly sticky rear brake and need to investigate. I'm fine with the braking system but this is the first time I've tackled anything with an electronic parking brake. I've different software but great to tlearn the do's and don'ts of the system as you set them out. Hopefully it's just a bit of stiffness / stickiness somewhere, but you've helpfully armed me with what I need to investigate and not mess up.
Many thanks and need to maybe find my wind back tool. 🤔
Thanks for making and sharing.
Hi, thank you for getting in touch especially with such positive feedback. Really glad you enjoyed the video. VW's are notorious for the rear pads seizing in the carrier but take your time and make sure everything is cleaned and treated accordingly. I presume you may have done the job now? How did t go?
@@greenautoservices Hello and thanks for your reply. Yes, I got everything back in good order, but I also decided to do a complete clear out of the rear wheel arch linings and a bit of resto on the rear sub frame so it all took extra time.
The more I dug into this the more muck I found in the arch linings and support brackets at their front. Once out, I pressure washed the linings. Once they were dry I gave each a 1/3 of a can of Tetroseal. I hope this means they don’t hold as much moisture in the future. I also cleaned everywhere I could find, then bagged up the disks etc and washed then waxed the arches, the frame, sills and suspension before reinstalling the arch linings and wax covering those fasteners. Next I rebuilt the rear brakes (thanks for your vid) and reset the EPB. The sticky calliper got a squirt of WD40 in the rubber seal before winding back in with a calliper tool and it and the other side slid smoothly. After the best cleaning I could do with various brushes and plenty of brake clean I used a little bit of very high temp copper-slip on reassembly and everything seems fine (touch wood). The raised temp took off some of the black paint (?) on the wheel rim, near the hub so I also fixed this as best as I could with some black Hammerite designed for non-ferrous metals. Will see…
It might be that the sticky calliper gets sticky again, but maybe this won’t happen until the pads are very worn. Seems fine so far and I’ll keep an eye / hand on brake temps.
At some stage I’ll pull the front wheel arch linings etc and rinse and repeat. Seems a brake service is a good time to treat the subframe with wax, no?
Great vid. Excellent presentation, well explained and pitched at the right level. Thank you for taking the trouble for creating & posting. I'll do the wobble trick and check the sliders before forking out ££££s for a new EB calliper for my Mk7 GTD.
Very great video appreciations for sharing with us appreciations and good job 👍🙏🇩🇰
Thank you so much for getting in touch and with such a positive review. I'm really pleased that it's reaching people all over the world and helping. Thanks again for your own going support. All the best
Great video. Good to refresh the brain on this one. I was in a pinch a few years back and could only get a used one from a breakers yard as local store never had any new in stock. Decided to wire it up and do a dry test before fitting. Big mistake. I cycled the piston and on its way back out, it just kept coming ... and coming and then pop. The piston falls out followed by what looked like hundreds of tiny ball bearings. £70 down the drain for pressing a damn button on my VAG COM.
Glad there's a video like this around to remind me not to be a dickhead again.
My friend, you and soooo many other people I'm sure have done the same thing. Don't be hard on yourself. Undoubtedly though that will happen. If the vehicle doesn't see a voltage spike due to resistance when the piston is meant to hit the pads, it will keep supplying power even beyond the piston falling out. Chin up and it can always be a funny story.......made me laugh. Thanks for getting in touch :)
If all the bearings came out like that from the thrust bearing cage, it was knackered anyway. It needed to be rebuilt in any case. so no big deal as it turned out. 👍
Thank you👌👌👌👌 i’ve subbed
You’re more than welcome and glad the video helped! Thank you for your support 🙌
Great video, I need to carry out the checks you mention, though my issue appears intermittent. Pulled up at country farm shop and smelt brake linings and rear offside wheel hot. Drove the 30-40 miles home and wheel same as the rest, cold. A few days later, short trip into town and, though no smell, wheel warm and others cold. Regarding your advise about bleeding all the brakes, as mine is a 2014, it will be a good excuse and opportunity to do a complete fluid change being nearly 9.5yrs old.
When that tap opened I'm pretty sure a load of big air bubbles went through that tube into the system. Also in the VW workshop manual it says to strictly adhere to bleed sequence fl fr rl rr. Not sure you can just do one corner,
So i wouldn't need a special rewind tool for my rear caliper pistons and ive heard jt needs to be trickle charged while performing the wind back ive beem looking at a noco genius 1 would that be sufficient?
Thanks for such a great video, can i please ask if you used an oem new caliper or an aftermarket? Could you please share a link to where you got the new caliper from? Many Thanks
Hi, thank you for getting in touch. You do not need to get an original OEM caliber. You can definitely purchase an aftermarket caliber that will meet OEM standards. The main supplier(s) that I used are GSF (previously known as All Parts), Euro Car Parts or Motor Parts Direct (MPD). Have a ring around for the best price and brands available. They most likely will be re-manufactured but that is 100% acceptable and will come with warrantee. Hope that helps and thanks for getting in touch.
Enjoyed your video, lots of details and justification for your choices. Surely closing the ebrake before bleeding extends the piston and increases the air void making the bleeding worse? Would it not be better to open it and retract the piston fully by hand before bleeding?
Thanks for getting in touch, really appreciate the positive feedback. This is a discussion I have with so many other technicians. I genuinely think it won’t make a difference to when you bleed it out. You actually get instructions when using the diagnostic tool to close the caliper after installation and doesn’t prompt you to bleed it at any point. Plus, bleeding the system is all about getting the air out. Regardless of how big the void is inside the caliper, once all the air is bled out then the system brake fluid will take up all the remaining space. Unless the system isn’t sealed and air tight then it shouldn’t matter either way. Hope that helps and thanks again for your support. If I get a more specific update on this I’ll mention it in future videos 👍
Great video, thanks Adam.
What are your thoughts on replacing the piston and seals instead of buying a refurbished calliper ?
Hi there, thank for getting in touch especially with such a positive response. So I actually think that the principles of carrying out a repair on the piston/seal would be straight forward and more cost effective. Usually it’s the protective boot that fails but the internal seal is also prone to failure but either way they are just maintenance items that look easy to replace. When it comes to electronic calipers, it may pose a slightly different fitting challenge but I would certainly give it a go myself. Worse case scenario, if you’re prepared to purchase a refurbished caliper, there would be little risk to try and carry out a repair beforehand. When I decide to do a repair myself, I’ll be sure to do another video. If you ever give it a go yourself, please do get in touch. Thanks again for getting in touch and for your on-going support. 👍
thanks
Hi! Great video! I am have having a hard time diagnosing my sticking rear brakes on my passat b7. After new pads and discs the brakes are sticking. If i put the caliper in “service” mode with the epb out the wheel spins free and the caliper goes in very easy, but as soon as I engage the epb after service and release it the brakes starts sticking. I have done a “reset” or “basic” setting for the epb and still has the same problem…This is the exact same for both rear brakes…were should I look next?
Hi, apologies for the delay coming back to you. Operations have recently moved abroad so there's been an inevitable time delay. So how difficult is it to turn the wheel with the parking brake off/released. There will be minor resistance with an electronic handbrake caliber usually but you still should be able to spin the wheel with one hand at least. If you need 2 hand and a bit of force to do it then you may have an underline issue. I'd double check the pads are not stuck in the carriers and also check the sliders to ensure the caliber can freely move back and forth. Ruling all those out there may still be an internal fault or resistance in the caliber that will need addressing. Hope that information helps....we'll get there :)
I’ve got the same car and I recently had the same problem got my local garage to replace the cal then 2 months later failed mot on the same o s break 🤦♂️🤷♂️😫
Brilliant vid mate, was wondering about the procedure of do i have to bleed before resetting electronic handbrake or after and now i now!
Hi, thanks for getting in touch and especially with such positive feedback, really appreciate it. Honestly, I don’t think it matters which way round you do it. The foot pedal uses hydraulic braking but the electronic handbrake it set by an electronic motor. Personally, I would bleed the caliper before setting the electronic motor unless otherwise instructed when using the diagnostics to set the parking brake. Hope that helps and thanks again for your support 👍
I just released the handbrake in with the handbrake button inside the car, is this not the correct way ?
Just remarking you need grease that’s safe for rubber. Otherwise it’s degrades it and the sliders will stick. Thanks for the video.
What would the crush washer size be for either side of the banjo bolt on Skoda Kodiaq? Assuming similar size to other VW group cars. Very hard to find the sizes and re manufactured callipers don’t seem to include the washers
Managed to change caliper, this was an excellent video to follow, thanks. Washer is M12 for either side of banjo bolt.
Didn’t even see you’re reply to your own comment. Thank you for such positive feedback and glad you managed to get the caliper changed over. More importantly find the size of the banjo bolt washer. Always good to know for future reference. It is unfortunate that not all re-manufactured calipers come with new washers, I guess it’s brand dependant. Although you should always renew the washers, worse case scenario, as long as the old washers are not damaged or bend you can clean them up and re-use them. But again, this is not something I recommend to do. Thanks again for getting in touch and glad this video helped 👍
Is there a reason why this won’t work if you just turn off the handbrake ? Without the diagnostic tool? Want to do thid myself without any experience and don’t have the tool. I’m replacing the caliper in full and have it off the disc. New one is pushed in so can’t i just undo the battery with EPB off, take off clips and brake line and put on the new one? Then bleed the brakes ofc. ?
In theory, I don't see why not. If the new caliper has already been wound back in & you're not replacing anything else then give it a go. The worst case is that the motor either doesn't extend all the way out or the vehicle may not learn the new position of the motor and you may have parking brake faults. Otherwise, fitting a new one and bleeding it out is the same otherwise. Let me know what happens. Thanks for getting in touch :)
I think the triangular washer should follow the threads better and not slip out or come off as easily. Then you don't have to use the trick of using a dab of grease to hold the washer in place during assembly.
Is the brake caliper not possible to refurbish? It would have been a nice movie.
This is a mk7 golf so its a 2013 plate or newer. A 2010 plate will be a mk6 and they didn't have an epb.
Whoa you’re totally right dude. Turns out it was on a private plate and is a 2014 plate (although it didn’t look like one) 🤪 best go ahead and at least change the title on this video. Thanks for getting in touch 🤘
maybe a stupid question but can you still bleed the brakes by pressing the brake pedal
Never a stupid question. Yes of course. Requires 2 people. One to open and close the caliper bleed nipple and another to press and release the brake pedal. When you’re In the trade a pressure bleeder is super handy 🤘
@@greenautoservices perfect mate appreciate that