Me thinks you will have people damaging their rotors and wasting money. Here's why: You left something off about removing a "difficult" rotor and that is they may have a small washer nut holding it against the axle, or even a little screw holding it I place. Gotta cut or pry that washer nut off and or remove the screw. Now, as far as wasting money....why pay 50 to 175 bucks for a caliper because it is leaking a little fluid behind the piston boot? Seal kits are available and are easy to install. On top of that they are from 12 to 30 bucks and are readily available from almost all parts outlets. It can get very expensive to do a brake job by just changing parts that can be refurbished. For instance if the rotor is marred there is no need to tastefully toss it in the garage and buy a new one. Take it to almost any parts store (O'Reilly or Autozone) and for 8 to 12 bucks they can turn it to like new condition and they will even test first to be sure it can safely be done to remain in Spec for proper performance. Money and resources are tight, don't waste either one and as always... Be safe out there.
Never thought of opening up the bleeder screw when compressing the pistons, had a little too much brake fluid come back up the master cylinder when I did my brakes
Howdy 1A Auto, Here's something i shouldn't have done, It would have been nice to know it is different with a screw-type caliber,,, (which I didn't realize till to late) I followed the instructions another 1A video and used the C-clamp,, now I have a trail of brake fluid down my driveway,,, no brakes,,,, something must have ruptured in between the two rear wheels,, what could that be??? pplease help 09-20-2021
I would just like to say that I think this dude did an excellent job, explaining clearly with a pleasant demeanor, and free from judgment or condescension. Well done man.
After replacement of the brake pads, one should always set the brake caliper pistons back , by pushing a few times on the brake pedal. Otherwise you are sure to get a no braking situation on the first step on your brake pedal which may be very dangerous and panicking.
You are by far the best teacher on any TH-cam Automotive Channel. Your demeanor, your easy tone voice. I hope "Mike from 1A Auto" appreciates you and pays you plenty. Thank for all your videos.
+@kleankars Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
One thing to add: BEFORE compressing the caliper piston back into the caliper (in video at 7:30) I like to first use a tooth brush and some soapy water (dish soap) to clean off the rubber boot around the piston, otherwise you can push dirt back into the piston and ruin the rubber boot or the piston itself. ALSO, BE SURE the guide pins on the calipers are lubricated, (in the video at 4:21) alot of people miss this step, I like using Lubriplate grease (but any grease is better than nothing), if they are dry or rusty the calipers will not center themselves properly on the rotor and the brake pads will wear unevenly and or warp the rotors. Great video!
Thank you for the helpful hints! Here's one more: Do one side at a time. When reassembling, it's handy to have the other side as a reference on how things go back together. This is especially handy with drum brakes. It also prevents mixing RH & LH parts.
As a retired mechanic, glad to see you young bucks help one another back in my day you became a apprentice ( and everything that applies) I have heard folks refer it as OJT even learning at home on the dairy..or if you could afford it, you went to school ... Take advantage of this means for communication ( y.t ) teach one another take what you learn and pass to the next apprentice. It would have been great in my time to have a visual manual instead of a 3 ft thick book and trust me the pages had smug marks, we didn't wear rubber gloves. I could ramble for ever ..thanks - bye
Those were the good old days. I started to learn on my own. When I watched the Machanic fix my car so easy. Then I had to shell out hard earned cash. So I went to the Haynes mechanic books. There were no TH-cam back then. Now I use both. Learn what ever you can young people. Georgia!!!
42, took one vehicle to a mechanic one time that was my 03 ram to have the (imagine that) rear end adjusted after replacing it i didnt have the tools or the experience, have had only 1 new vehicle and that didnt last long i got bored. School of hard knocks and busted knuckles evwntuallu you learn how to push and pull on a wrench safely. Lol. I dont think i would have ever considered if a brake pad could be put on backwards if i had however i wouldnt have thought it possible.
I've been doing my own brake work for fifty years, and I've restored eight classic cars. I still learned a few things from this video. Very well presented and very thorough. Thanks so much.
I paid N Tee Bee over 3000, brakes,shocks, struts,tires, they had my car for a solid week after 4 trip's back and forth 40 miles one way. I told them I don't want it back until it's fixed. They never changed or checked the rubber brake hoses. They were clogged. I had to buy new brakes,2 new rotors and be towed in because I had no brakes and they were so hot I thought they were going to be on fire. Owner of IN Tee Bee owes me for trips,towing,new brake's and rotors. You need to Teach N TEE BEE how to change the brakes l
Disk brakes are so easy. I learned on drum brakes. The first time I did them myself I put them on the wrong way with the long shoe on the wrong side. After a night I didn't have any brakes. Lesson learned. Take one side apart and do it. Then if you forget you can look so the other side to see how it goes back together
To show my gratification for you making this video- I purchased rotors and pads from your company. Thank you guys for helping us save money. This inflation is killing us. God Bless Y’all!!!!
Cool video! I've replaced brakes on 100s of cars and trucks, but Im not a certified mechanic, and never went to any school to be one. I like and agree with all the tips you have given! I've read through a lot of the comments here and did like most suggestions given by other viewers! The one important thing I can't believe was not mentioned at all, unless I missed it somehow, is the brake dust safety!! The one thing you should NEVER do, is inhale any brake dust! The 1st thing any repair manual tells you is to never clean your brakes with compressed air, because brake linings may contain asbestos, blah, blah, etc, etc. Don't clean brake parts with a wire wheel, indoors, without a mask and other ppe. Don't make brake dust airborn if you can help it. Brake dust is some nasty stuff you never want to inhale! (Don't ask me how I know about that tip being important, lol!) Great tip on opening the bleeder when compressing the piston! I hate dealing with hands full of brake fluid, but it's a must with ABS. Thank you!
Really informative, thank you. Another tip, probably already mentioned... Don't shake the bottle of brake fluid before use. Especially if your filling a dry system. It's a common reflex for most of us to shake a can or bottle of something we're about to use. Thanks again!! Lots of good comments!!
This YT channel has some of the best information I have ever seen! I mean, no B.S straight to the point and all the information is EXTREMELY VALID! Pay attention folks. You can learn A TON from this site. I know I have!!!
Great tips! Some things worth mention: always wear safety glasses, especially when wire-wheeling hub assemblies, fasteners, or banging on a stuck rotor/drum. Use a 3/8” torque wrench and torque the caliper bolts to spec. I CANNOT stress this enough as I’ve seen overzealous junior technicians sheer off the head of a caliper bolt from over tightening. If you are new to DIY, do one side at a time and take pics/video if necessary. This will save you if you have to step away to address something else. You may forget how things were taken apart. This is especially true if you’re working on replacing shoes on drum brakes. Lastly, don’t be afraid of using brake cleaner… it’s cheap and cleans 99.99% of any residue left behind on pads and shoes from your hands when reassembling. Cheers! 👍🏻
Make sure that the new pad tabs are gliding in the tracks freely. Since the steel parts of the pads are stamped out at the factory, they can be cut at an angle or have a bad edge causing them to hang up and not hit the disc flatly. You can file them or use a grinder to get them square enough to float. And THEN use the grease.
I've never done my own brakes before. After watching this guy explain the do's and don'ts, I'm confident I can try myself and do a great job. This was a fantastic video! 👏
Its not as difficult as it seems. Just take your time, research ahead of time helps alot. And make sure you have all the required tools before beginning.
As a hobby mechanic and someone mildly OCD, I found this video very satisfying. Even as some that has done brakes all his life, I found some additional takeaways of value to me. Cheers and Thank you ❤
An excellent video! One thing is missing which many DIYers may make mistake. The grease for the caliper slide pins should silicon grease rather than grease you used on the brake pad back plate.
Since you have to compress the pistons back in the caliper to make room for new thick pads, remember to slowly pump the brake pedal til it gets hard - before you put it in drive!
My dad is a mechanic 👨🔧 he help me do my brakes Then he said let’s go test them out so we hop in the truck and soon as we pull out the drive way I tap the brakes and the pedal went down and I panic 😱 there no brakes he was laughing said just pump them your ok 😂 Yeah good Times 🤙
Another tip I found out the hard way - when changing brake fluid, always use the ring end of the spanner to crack the nut. They are often very tight and the open ended spanner can damage the nut.
I’ve been working on my own cars for years, including brakes. This is an excellent video and I picked up some little details I hadn’t thought about. For newbies out there, wear nitrile gloves, keep your hands clean & wipe your gloves to keep your new parts clean. Use brake cleaner to clean new rotors as they have oil on them to prevent rust.
Excellent video. I do all of my own brakes including caliper rebuilds. I would add a few points: The Caliper Guide Pin Housing can be worn causing shuddering too, how to visually inspect flexible lines for signs of perished cracked or bubbled hose. The importance of the seal on the Master Cylinder cap to limit ingress of water, even from humidity which will deteriorate the brake fluid. Further to that, every February I do a complete Fluid Flush to the entire system. When you break a Copper Washer seal, best practice is to use New Washers. Cars love maintenance! Your style of presentation is excellent!
The biggest thing I noticed was that there was no sense of caution regarding pushing back the caliper pistons. This is actually a delicate procedure. IT IS IMPORTANT that you BE VERY CAREFUL WITH CARS WITH ABS to avoid pushing fluid back through the system. The video tell you you can open the bleeder while you push the calipers back, but fails to mention that you MUST DO THIS ON VEHICLES WITH ABS or risk damaging the ABS pump. Ideally, you should use brake line clamps to pinch off the flexible lines and make sure all the fluid is pushed out through the bleeder. Furthermore, in the video, you can see the technician align the tool off center of the piston... Actually, you should be careful to try to center the pressure as well as possible on the piston. This is most important when the piston is at it's furthest extension (i.e. when you are replacing worn out brakes) because it is then that it is most at risk of being wracked in it's boar, which will marr the piston and cause it to leak. The video says to match the squealers to what comes off the vehicle, but that's not always the best way to go because you can't be sure the last person got it right. The Squealer should go on the inside of the caliper pointing against the rotation of the rotor. This is because the sliders cause friction, so the inside pad sees more force, causing it to wear more quickly. Compounding this, the sliders also allow the caliper to wrack slightly from the braking forces, causing the leading edge to dig in and the pad to wear at a slight angle. Calipers with pistons on both sides of the rotor are less sensitive to this because there are no sliders. In this case, you just need to watch out for interference between the caliper and the squealer or other irregularities in the shape of the pad. Some pads don't have squealers... this is also normal. The orientation of the squealer is important because it's a warning signal. You want it to start rubbing the rotor as early as possible. If you were to position it at the point where the pads wear the slowest, it might not warn you your brakes are low until after the metal backing contacts the rotor, which could mean that you have to replace your rotor prematurely. I would have to say that the most overlooked element of doing breaks is the sliders. Sliders should be serviced with every pad replacement. This means they need to be taken apart, cleaned, inspected for excessive wear, lubed, and reassembled. This is super important, but it's often overlooked. It is also important to visually inspect of the old pads. Their condition may indicate other possible issues. Some difference in wear from the inside pad to outside is normal, but a big difference indicates a problem with the sliders. Uneven wear from one side of the vehicle to the other indicates a problem with the flexible brake lines. (the rubber hoses that connect between the body of the car and the caliper) It is also normal for rear pads to wear far less than the fronts. If you are changing rear pads as frequently or more frequently than fronts, there is probably a problem. Another important thing that is often overlooked, especially by DIYers is the brake fluid itself. It doesn't last forever. It should be flushed from time to time. This is easy to do while you're servicing the brakes, and can be performed without doing an air bleed, if you're careful. There is a process called "gravity bleed" where you open the bleeder nut at the caliper and let the fluid bleed out under the force of gravity, topping up the master cylinder as you go... make sure you don't let the master cylinder run out of fluid, as this will introduce air into the system, which is a huge pain. If you do this at all 4 wheels long enough, you will replace all the fluid in the brakes without introducing air into the system.... I can't stress enough... DON'T LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN OUT OF FLUID! Letting the master cylinder run dry is probably the worst thing that can happen when you're doing breaks, as it's is very tricky to bleed a master cylinder, and it usually requires you to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it to do it right, and then you will have to do a bleed to get the air out of the calipers.
Wow, thanks for the awesome follow up. Hit some important points. Like the gravity bleed. Question? Do I open only one of the caliper valves?;all four at once? Thanks again
You'll find a lot of people who do brakes all their life and never have any issues with resetting the piston with bleeder closed. Doesn't mean that's correct but the only risk is if there is debris in the lines. If the brake fluid is being changed on time and you do a full bleed out if you have to replace a brake line/piston, you're probably fine. At a shop or with a used car where maintenance is a mystery, it pays to play it safe. For a home mechanic, it's still little extra effort and it lets you better assess whether the piston is travelling in correctly
Great video. I picked up a trick or two. Also, for removing stubborn rotors I find a rubber mallet better than a steel hammer at times in that the mallet doesn't leave marks.
That or if your rubber mallet or plastic dead blow has wandered off, smack a block of wood set on the rotor. Anything to avoid metal to metal, not that I have shattered a rotor or two in my time?!
I wished I lived in a place where a rubber hammer would remove a rotor! Very rare that we don't replace the rotors for new, a air hammer with a hammer head bit will most times break them free. My OTC 7-ton rotor remover is always close by for those stubborn times.
All very good points, one of the best videos I've seen on brake maintenance, I even learned a few tricks I didn't know. One MISTAKE I noticed, at time index 6:40 the slotted Rotor you put on was for the Front (Passenger Right) side. The best way to tell is is to look at the slots on the top portion of the Rotor. The tip of the slot closet to the center of the wheel will be pointed forward and down at the ground, and the outer tip of the slot will always point up and towards the rear of the vehicle. This is so that as the wheel turns the water will move outward and towards the rear of the vehicle and off the Rotor. If the slots are reversed the the slots in the rotor try to force the water inwards while the centrifugal force on the water is trying to force the water outward, this can cause the pads to partially float. Of course this will reduce brake efficiency, defeating the purpose of Slotted Rotors. So always have the inner portion of slot on the top portion of the rotor facing down and forward. When purchasing Slotted Rotors a good manufacture will label the Rotors Front or Rear (Passenger or Driver) side. Other than that I loved it. thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
being a non expert, and doing this every few years, I find that it helps me a lot to take photos with my phone as I take things apart to help if I run into a challenge putting it back together.
I remember doing brakes on the old drums. Removing all the springs and making sure the plunger didn’t come out of the cylinder. Disc brakes came along making a brake job so much easier. Thanks to all you who make these vids for the DYI folks. Remember if it looks to hard take it to a service tech and for gods sake keep safety in mind by using jack stands…
Work on one wheel at a time, especially drum brakes. Lay your parts down carefully and they will act as a guide for reassembly. If you have a question you can look at the other side. A length of tubing to drain fluid from bleeder into a bottle will keep things neater.
@@JM-yx1lm firebird77clone firebird's advice is good. New pads are thicker than old, so the caliper pistons are further into the caliper body. The brake fluid has to go somewhere. You can either bleed it off, or spill it out of your master cyclinder. Pick one.
Few things to add , I’d check the axial and radial movement on each wheel before removal to see if it has any bearing play .Then check all bleeders on each calipers before brake removal if they’re not seized .After that check pads condition ,to see if its normal or uneven wear , this will give you to an idea of seizing piston in caliper and or slider pins locking up . Also not shure if mentioned ,rear brake shoes also could be put on backwards accidently ,not knowing which is primary or secondary and this leads to locking up rear drums .Lastly ,If you are not 100% confident ,seek for help so you don’t put yours or someones life on the line .
Thank you guys for another great video. I'm not a mechanic, but I do all the repairs and maintenance on my family's vehicles. Ten vehicles between my wife and I, our kids, and my parents. I turn to 1A Auto on a regular basis to learn more and to understand the components I'm working on. You save me a lot of time and money!
Great video, I have done at least 500 brake repairs in my life but figured I would watch anyways. Another helpful tip you didn't mention is before reinstalling the caliper shims (after cleaning rust under them) is to apply a small amount of the brake grease/lubricant on then reinstall. This will help to prevent it from rusting again so easily. When it rust under the shims, it makes it too tight around the end of the brake pad framing where it should be able to easily slide causing them to not retract which will wear your pads faster of course.
Hey. I've got a question for you since you may have run into this before. After getting new pads/rotors/calipers on my '03 4runner (took it to a shop) I notice a clicking sound from one wheel as I drive. Braking or not, the sound doesn't change. What do you think is causing that? They said to bring it in so they can adjust it but it got me interested in what it may be.
@Eric could have been a few things. Could have been the backing plate was bent in a position that it was rubbing on something which can easily be bent back. Or one of the pads were loose because of a broken retaining clip therefore the pad can shift around and click/rattle.. few other things it could be, nearly impossible to pinpoint without actually taking it apart and looking myself. Did you end up figuring it out ever?
Out of all the diy brake videos I have seen, this one makes me feel the most confident. Thank you so much for posting it. Of course this is the first I've seen on this series, so now I need to go watch the rest.
Remember to always read the directions for your particular brake pad. For instance, if it has a factory anti-squeal coating or to apply an adhesive sticker to the back. These will specifically state not to use any grease on the back. Some pads also have a break-in coating that require you to make a series of hard stops after installation.
Many manufacturers require you to bed in brake pads after installation to ensure proper traction between the brake pad and rotor. This stop-and-go process, sometimes called “burnishing,” alters and usually increases the coefficient of friction between the rotor and pad to ensure stable braking power. Despite the common use of this practice, however, not all brake pads require breaking in. Akebono’s ultra-premium ceramic disc brake pads do not require this step because they are precision engineered to perform and mold to your rotors over time. Thus, there is no specific burnishing procedure needed with Akebono brake pads.
Very good video. The additional comments that I have are: - always remove, clean and regrease the caliper slide pins. If they bind at all it leads to uneven or premature pad wear - I always use Pipetite Stick on all threaded brake line fittings and bleed screws. This compound is non-hardening, crayon consistency, and is compatible with all fluids. Ensures that years later you can still loosen the fitting as the stick keeps the water out of the threads - If replacing the caliper with a rebuilt unit check the bleed screw prior to installation. I have had a couple calipers now where the screw was damaged or the threads were not properly tapped - watch for anti-rattle shims that are too tight. If they are tight when new, then throw them away. My Honda's rear pads bound up and almost seized the brakes because rust built up under the shim and would not let the pad release. This after only 50,000 km in a climate not know for excessive rusting
Some of these I had absolutely not heard before. The piptite stick is especially novel and I'll be buying one to use when I make new hardlines for my truck's clutch!
Your videos have been lifesavers for me 20 + times. 1A auto videos have the most comprehensive training A+ on details. Love the lady on the team she has inspired me with her great videos.
And, I put a vinyl piece of tubing over the bleeder during piston push back so fluid goes into a small can and not all over the place. Also use only a 6 point socket on the bleeder to avoid rounding it off. Make sure ya top off master cylinder with the correct DOT. Just a few words of something that may help
Thanks for the great tips. One thing to check if reusing the rotors is the thickness. The minimum thickness is usually embossed on the side or on the rim of the rotor. If the rotor looks fine but has reached the minimum thickness, it is time to replace it. Also, hand-tighten the caliper bracket and the caliper assembly bolts to make sure they are not cross-threaded. I have damaged more than one bolt without realizing it was cross-threaded and the torque wrench did not do me any favors tightening those. Also, I replace the caliper guide pin rubber boots each time. Lastly, subscribe or acquire a factory service manual for your car and follow the torque specifications. Do not use impact guns all the way to tighten nuts that require a certain torque.
Getting ready to replace both front and rear rotors/brake pads, while also checking ABS wheel sensors on a 2000 GMC Sierra. This is one of the best videos I've seen, and as a first-time installer, thanks for all the great tips. I'm going to take pictures as I go along, and will definitely be watching this vid a few times before I start!
Top notch video.He's thought of just about everything and the few things he missed were covered in the comments. As for putting brake grease on the friction surface of the pad, the only thing I can add is I hope this guy never does a video on how to shave with a straight razor and how you should never slash your carotid artery while shaving your neck.
I changed my disc and pads today. Then I watched this clip. But I watched a clip on how to install a disc and pads before I installed it. Works great and I saved myself alot of money.
1A Auto I really appreciate this video and the way you present instruction to those who may be doing something themselves that is a little beyond them but guide them rather than judge them. The demo on oil and brake fluid was perfect. I believe it is worth mentioning that, "If you are not adequately experienced, consider getting the work completed by a qualified mechanic. They are qualified, experienced and have all the right tools to do the job right, the first time." On refitting the caliber you mentioned tightening the caliber bolts to the correct torque but you did not mention reapplying thread locker, "If the threads on there caliber bolt have something in the threads that looks like gum, then you need to clean the threads with a wire brush or use new bolts apply a thread lock liquid before reinserting and tightening the calliper bolts to the correct torque." Great instruction. Thanks so much.
I've told 3 mechanics and a dealer to do this.they look at you as you told them so obvious and you insulted them . Get the car back and they didn't do it. I just do my own brakes now . Takes a while but Hard as a rock
Great video. Obviously if you are making these mistakes you might not want to do your own brakes. But another tip never let the caliper hang by the brake hose and a good way to make sure the brake hose is straight is to look at the lines on the hose itself or other markings.
@@1AAuto Wityh the vast majority of DIYers out there these days with cell phones, why not take a photo of the entire work area so if you forget how something goes, you can refer back to your phone for how it was......assuming it was right prior to your proceedure......lol
Great video!!, I didn’t hear one “Ummm” before every sentence, like so many TH-camrs do. You don’t over explain and get straight to the point. Good camera angles of what you’re talking about. Did fast forward on some common sense items but I know there are people who need to hear those parts. Thanks
When my son did his first brake job on his Mustang, he flipped the inner and outer pads. The pins on the pad broke the caliper's phenolic pistons. He also didn't torque them properly and lost a bolt. Two of the mistakes mentioned here.
Another great video! Never buy "open box" or returned pads. It's not easy to judge a cheap organic pad from a top line ceramic, until you drive on it awhile. Scammers swap and return pads (and other auto parts) all the time.
Just ordered a few things from you guys and was impressed that everything was exactly what it was supposed to be, unlike the local parts stores who seem to always have something incorrect when getting the parts in
Most common mistake made, and included in this video, is not cleaning and lubricating the caliper slides. Making sure they still move freely is not enough, and if that is all that was done; a guarantee the new pads will be short lived. It is also important to make sure there is no degradation on the surface of the slide bolts themselves, as this will eventually create binding in the slide bore, even if proper caliper grease is used on reassembly. If decay or degradation is found on the bolts, it is best to replace them, along with the rubber slide boots.
Here’s my mistake. My first DIY brake job. Caliber bracket bolts are on the inside. My brain got confused and I turned the first bolt wrong way and snapped it off. “Dang!” While learning how to extract broken bolt it dawned on me what I did. I was humbled.
Lol man that sucks. I was doing my rear brakes a couple weeks ago and overtightened one of the caliper mounting bracket bolts with a brushless impact. Spun the top of the bolt right off. I had to drill it out and clean up the threads as well as go buy new bolts from the dealer before I could continue 🤣
Just a hint, When reinstalling the caliper mounting bolts and bracket, use the correct torque, read the specs, buy a torque wrench, good for so many other uses, good investment.
I good trick to remember is righty tighty so grab the bolt and remember if I’m looking at the bolt dead on from the backside then you know which way tightens which way loosens.
Tips for us home gamers: 1. Always pull the slide pins out, clean out the old, nasty crap inside and replace with a good slide pin lube like Sil-Glyde. Doesn't hurt to clean the rubber boots and rub some slide pin lube on them also, as it helps them last longer. 2. Get some good anti-seize and put some on the any non-pad surface that touches another non-pad surface, like wheel studs, where studs press against the rotor, caliper and bracket bolts, and even the back of the wheel where it presses to the studs and rotor 'hat', which makes it a lot easier to actually remove the wheel next time. 3. If you're in the NE, or have real winters, splurge just a little and get the coated rotors. Where I shop online I stopped buying the economy brands and saved myself a lot of hassle going with Centric/Power Stop coated, they're only llike $10 more per set, and way less rust issues and I actually think they last at least 2 brake changes vs the normal 1 on Murano's. Funny thing, my Mom was recently quoted 495 for front and back brakes, each. Of course it a dealer right? I looked online and scored 4 rotors and pads *KOE4100) Power Stops for her 2017 Rav4 for $48 + $23 s/h. Right now is $96 + s/h. Took about an hour and a half on a Sat afternoon with BIL, and saved Mom at least 500-600 from any non-Dealer shop. Disc brakes are about as simple as one can get, and there are tons of good video's on YT if you're apprehensive. For $200 you can get better than OEM, ceramic low dust coated brakes that will provide you with better, consistent braking without fade, do it in a couple of hours, and save a wackload of cash.
No greasing of the wheel studs, ever. Lubricating the wheel studs lowers the coefficient of friction between the threads of the nut and stud, thus changing the true clamping force of the wheel to the car even when properly torqued. Lug nuts and studs are R&D to be dry fit only. If the nuts are difficult to remove then someone has over torqued them or they're galled, cross threaded, etc.
@@barrymccaulkiner7092 so putting nickel anti-seize on the studs & using a 600mm breaker bar with “ feel the tension “ & not using a torque wrench is wrong ? I say not as I have been doing it that way for forty years & never had a wheel come off or a galled or seized wheel nut on the other hand my partners car had dickheads at the tyre shop using a air gun & no lube saw broken wheel studs or nuts that refused to come loose when flat a tyre presented itself . I will keep using the 600mm bar & nickel anti-seize which I recommend to anyone that owns a car to remove way over tensioned wheel nuts especially if you have an issue with strength , joints etc . It is also wise to buy a black impact rated socket to suit which will never break & If you can’t loosen the nuts with this you can snap the stud if need be to remove the wheel . Sometimes there are 2 right answers & the engineered one is not necessarily the best working one.
I've always used WD 40 on lug nuts and studs so they won't freeze up from corrosion or rust . I use it on battery terminals , too. been doing it since 1971 . Dont plan on changing now .
I would add that on some vehicles, the caliper piston should not be merely compressed with that tool or a "C" clamp. Many autos require the piston to be rotated while compressing. There is a special tool available to do this. If you try and compress the piston without rotating you will damage the caliper and will have to replace it.
One thing I learned that is extremely crucial the first time doing my brakes is to hold the 19mm bolt with a socket ratchet and tighten the caliper bolts. This is a safety feature and if you just tighten the caliper bolts like I did they'll probably come loose which is what I experienced. Also, the serpentine belt tool is a great cheater bar and was soooo useful and saved me a huge headache in removing the bigger 19mm bolt. I hope that helps in doing your brakes safely, timely, and efficiently.
I'd add the Three brake greases: 1) Red (Grease) for anything that sits in fluid 2) Silicon for sliders / gaiters or anything rubber 3) Copper for back of pads/ nipples/ joints.
Just a note, I always did brake jobs one wheel at at a time. This saved the problem of mixing up right left and front and back, though the last was seldom a problem as front and rear have generally been very different, especially in the day when I was working as a mechanic as most cars back then had drum brakes, with only high end cars having disk brakes and then except on some exotic race cars only having disks in the front.
Nice Video ! I always open the master cylinder cap and put a towel under it, when pushing the Caliper piston back in . this allows the fluid to return without a problem and is easier that messing with the bleeder valve . Make sure to replace cap when done .
Yeah except you are pushing what is probably the dirtiest fluid in your system (from inside the caliper) back up through the ABS pump and into your MC. Nope, opening the bleeder valve is a piece of cake and allows the fluid to escape. Then you add nice clean fluid to replace it in the MC.
@@StilettoSniper In the Rust belt , You dont want to mess with rusted bleeder screws unless you have to so , YES removing the master Cylinder cap makes more sense . The Caliper fluid isnt any dirtier than the fluid in the brake line .
Great video. Nice thought about loosening the bleeding screw while compressing the piston. I've always loosened the cover of the brake fluid reservoir. I would have liked you to add a portion on the correct way to install slotted rotors. I bought 4 for my 2008 Toyota Highlander and immediately began hearing a kind of wind noise. I figured I installed them the wrong way. The only other item I'd add is how to compress the piston on the rear brakes that have the electronic parking brake. I changed the rear brakes on my 2016 Subaru Outback and learned I needed a special tool that would turn the position while compressing it. Great video. Loved your instructional videos. They make us all look smarter than we are!!
I've ruined an abs unit simply because I didn't pop a bleeder when I compressed a piston. Crazy what a tiny bit of rust can do to a valve train. Edit: also bubble flares are called ISO Flares as well! Found that out in a foreign shop.
When striking the rotor or drum, thread the lug nuts back on flush with the end of the stud to prevent damage to the lug threads. If the OE pad material is semi-metallic, then that's what you want to put back on. Different pad materials are designed to work at different temperatures and could cause the rotors to warp more easily. Don't put grease on the brake pads. If it actually made any difference, then auto manufacturers would put grease on the pads when the car is new. The grease could also cause dirt to stick and do more harm than good. The audible wear indicators or squealers typically go on the leading edge of the brake pad. If all of the brake pads don't have wear indicators, then the ones that do go on the inside/back of the rotor. I prefer the coated/painted rotors because they don't rust on the non-braking surfaces. Not only are they more aesthetically pleasing, but they'll also dissipate heat better because the cooling vanes will be free of rust build up.
If you don't put grease on it, it will squeal like mad. You won't notice a difference on brand new cars because all is still clean and shiny, but when you change brake pads for the first time, there is a lot of rust and dirt on the caliper and piston and you WILL get horrible squeals on metal-to-metal contact. That's even more true if the car is driven in areas with a lot of moisture and salt. The alternative would be to take them off completely, clean and sand every surface that makes contact with the brake pads and hope every metal surface is still flat and even enough not to produce squeals anyway. It's impractical and the grease also makes it easier to change them the next time too.
Grease saves brakes in Canada the salt and snow rust the brakes so fast and without grease th brakes seize in the slides maybe down south where the cars don’t rust it’s fine but it’s good practice to always grease the pads
Car Manufacturers don't put grease because like buddy said everything is squeaking new but also they don't wanna sell something that will last to long.... Just look at the car parts that used to be made out of metal like blowing fans, even the radiators are now mostly made of plastic so they don't last as long, So you need to change them, so You get $$ out of you wallet..
I guess this vid came up because I recommended you guys to a buddy and he sent me a link to confirm the part. Always have gotten good parts from you, saved a lot of money, and have confidence in them.
+Rick Sanchez Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video! I love the in depth explanation of a complete and correct brake job. As for rust, I live in the rust belt. A wire brush is pretty much useless to remove heavy rust scale. Use a file or something abrasive. I personally like to use a needle scaler. Similar to an air hammer except many small "needles" that dislodge the rust scale. Then use a wire brush and apply some rust deterrent like anti-sieze. Thanks for teaching! So valuable.
It’s beautiful to know that you have done the work yourself and that you have done it correctly. I trust my own mechanical skills over jiffy lube technicians.
@ 3:10 that reminded me of the time When I was 14 and I polished the wooden stair case because my mom said I didn’t clean them right the first time. So I went ham and REALLY cleaned the stairs. People slipped. Belts were whipped. It was bedlam
Great video to watch out for doing something wrong. Remember that brake fluid can damage your paint. If taking the cap off the reservoir when compressing calipers then put lots of rags around so not to get fluid on the paint in the engine compartment.
@@craigerickson1910 You'll never see a 3 piston set up (it would be a 6 piston fully floating caliper). For those you need to use a dual sided pressing tool that'll do both sides simultaneously.
- never hang your brake caliper by the hose. use some type of creative bungee hanger. even an old coat hanger. - when you remove 1 pad take a picture. remove the second pad - take another picture. you'll have all the evidence you need to reinstall them correctly. the photo won't forget the details. - put your lug nuts on the studs to protect them from your hammer if you need to strike the rotor. - while replacing your brake pads - remove the caliper sliding pins - clean and lubricate the pins and pin bore - lubricate them with the appropriate grease. if you don't- your caliper will probably seize on the pins prior to your next pad replacement. ( especially in rusty states ) your brake will not release from the disc / rotor burning both - and only the compression pad will contact the rotor. - BRAKE BLEEDING : PRESSURE METHOD ( made easy ) brake fluid is nasty it absorbs water and causes corrosion inside your lines and calipers. your favorite hardware has clear vinyl hose for bleeding. get a piece of clear vinyl hose of the correct diameter that fits tightly on your bleeder. 25' or so. fill reservoir FULL TO TOP. ( never let the reservoir empty during this process ) starting with the right rear - open bleeder - install bleeder hose - pump brake until steady clean fluid comes back to reservoir visible through clear hose ( into a catch container ). close bleeder. REFILL reservoir FULL TO TOP and repeat - repeat - repeat. you just bled all the contaminated corrosive fluid out of your brake system. - ALTERNATE GRAVITY BLEEDING : use a piece of clear vinyl hose like above about 8' long. jack vehicle front or back. remove both wheels from same axle. FILL RESERVOIR FULL TO TOP. route hose VERTICAL up side of vehicle fender well. ( see buoyancy ) loop over masking tape or magnet holder- and down into container. open bleeder and install hose. now go work on the OPPOSITE brake. ( DO NOT ALLOW RESERVOIR TO EMPTY ) by the time you finish changing brakes on left - the right brake will be bled. close bleeder and swap positions and REFILL RESERVOIR. all gravity, buoyancy and physics. no work involved. if you don't understand these instructions - and how simple they are - do not do this. when you understand these physics and how simple this process is - you'll be able to replace your brakes and bleed them in the same time with no help.
Another tip: some rotor are side specific so don't mix up right with left and vise versa. They sometimes have R or L printed or engraved but double check with the box and the new rotor so you put it in the correct side.
good point - the internal cooling fins in the gap between the inner and outer rotor surfaces will not work if R and L is not respected - always do 1 side at at time and compare parts taken off to match the ones to be installed
We use Blue Dawn to clean rotors now in the industry. Removes the oil coated on non-coated rotors, or grease marks from your fingers. Also lifts any metal debris out of the rotor surface left over from the machining process. That ensures that debris doesn’t bed into the pad, causing a squeak down the road!
Great video! I have used a rubber mallet or dead blow on rotors before. They do not dinge a rotor up like metal on metal. Whats your thoughts on cracking the reservoir cap versus a bleeder? That is general what i have done and used a large c-clamp to go inside the piston to collapse. Thanks 1A Auto!
I like the dead blow hammer if I'm reusing the caliper. I crack the reservoir cap when pushing the pistons in. Less messy and less cleanup. Once the pistons are in I then tighten the cap to keep the fluid from absorbing moisture.
Like the new content. Doing these types of videos is so much better where you are doing more than just a repair. The dos and don't are great! Keep the new content coming.
Always torque your wheel lugs in star pattern in 4-5 increasing torque increments. Also, many OEMs require DRY studs, not lubed or you will over torque your studs. Not always for all cars, but worth paying attention to.
I think not letting the caliber hang from the brake line is important also. You definitely hit way more points that I would have thought of. Thank you..
I was shocked when I saw him using copper for a brake line - that used to be a huge mistake! But Google taught me that now, there are copper alloys that are perfectly safe to use for brake lines. That's a big improvement over trying to bend the old steel lines. I learned something new today, and I'm 69 years old. :-)
Modern Nickle Copper (NiCu) lines are just as strong as steel and are so much easier to bend. And as a bonus, they don't rust. They are twice the price but in my opinion, they are worth it.
@@Dave-in-MD Spoton... True statement... I stay away from all stainless steel brake lines... They are a PITA...to get to seat and not leak... Ask me how I know....
Greatly appreciate your time. Everything you want over is common sense for somebody's been doing brakes for some time but nothing wrong with a refresher course. Thanks again.
Great video! What about caliper pins that have a rubber ring on them, on the opposite end of where the pin get bolted? I've always encountered them on just one of the pair of pins. Which pin goes where, on the top or bottom? Once again, great video.
Over 4M views but only a few thumbs up as a thank you, and thats a shame. Thank you for uploading this tutorial video and helping so many people like myself.
Me too! I couldn't help but think: What if someone is watching and following along with what he's doing, without listening well. Or with the volume down. Yikes.
Make sure not to get steel/rust particles in a bottle of Loctite. This stuff is basically acrylic resin without the catalyst, because the metal surface of the bolt acts as the catalyst. When you contaminate the bottle, the whole thing will turn into hard plastic.
I truly appreciate that you take your time to show and teach us how to do it properly. Plus closed caption is huge impact to help deaf or hard of hearing to understand what you say. I do replace parts myself plus I had long experience in industry building axles systems for their vehicles. Anyway, everyday is always learning.
Brake pad/shoe repair is simple but HUGE liability if wrong person fudges with. I told one lady when she buckled at price she is paying for peace of mind and my knowledge when she said it didn't take me that long for 100.00 . Ive scene a lot of little things go wrong that could have been fatal on DIY brake jobs. Great video and KT.
Thanks for the tips! I learned a lot. Quick question, when you were looking at the piston, you mentioned that if you see fluid around it you would need to replace the caliper because it would need a new piston seal. It looked like you had fluid in that area in yours, was that the case for yours or was I seeing something else? Anyone else know?
New technician here ase certified and im still learning stuff i learned some good habits from you thank you definitely will do some of these things next time especially those rusty cars
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Excellent.
I have also heard that squealers should go down.
How important is it for them to be either up or down ?
Me thinks you will have people damaging their rotors and wasting money. Here's why: You left something off about removing a "difficult" rotor and that is they may have a small washer nut holding it against the axle, or even a little screw holding it I place. Gotta cut or pry that washer nut off and or remove the screw.
Now, as far as wasting money....why pay 50 to 175 bucks for a caliper because it is leaking a little fluid behind the piston boot? Seal kits are available and are easy to install. On top of that they are from 12 to 30 bucks and are readily available from almost all parts outlets.
It can get very expensive to do a brake job by just changing parts that can be refurbished. For instance if the rotor is marred there is no need to tastefully toss it in the garage and buy a new one. Take it to almost any parts store (O'Reilly or Autozone) and for 8 to 12 bucks they can turn it to like new condition and they will even test first to be sure it can safely be done to remain in Spec for proper performance.
Money and resources are tight, don't waste either one and as always...
Be safe out there.
Never thought of opening up the bleeder screw when compressing the pistons, had a little too much brake fluid come back up the master cylinder when I did my brakes
i guess I am kinda randomly asking but does anyone know of a good website to stream newly released movies online?
Howdy 1A Auto, Here's something i shouldn't have done, It would have been nice to know it is different with a screw-type caliber,,, (which I didn't realize till to late)
I followed the instructions another 1A video and used the C-clamp,, now I have a trail of brake fluid down my driveway,,, no brakes,,,, something must have ruptured in between the two rear wheels,, what could that be??? pplease help 09-20-2021
I would just like to say that I think this dude did an excellent job, explaining clearly with a pleasant demeanor, and free from judgment or condescension. Well done man.
After replacement of the brake pads, one should always set the brake caliper pistons back , by pushing a few times on the brake pedal. Otherwise you are sure to get a no braking situation on the first step on your brake pedal which may be very dangerous and panicking.
You are by far the best teacher on any TH-cam Automotive Channel. Your demeanor, your easy tone voice. I hope "Mike from 1A Auto" appreciates you and pays you plenty. Thank for all your videos.
+@kleankars Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
One thing to add: BEFORE compressing the caliper piston back into the caliper (in video at 7:30) I like to first use a tooth brush and some soapy water (dish soap) to clean off the rubber boot around the piston, otherwise you can push dirt back into the piston and ruin the rubber boot or the piston itself. ALSO, BE SURE the guide pins on the calipers are lubricated, (in the video at 4:21) alot of people miss this step, I like using Lubriplate grease (but any grease is better than nothing), if they are dry or rusty the calipers will not center themselves properly on the rotor and the brake pads will wear unevenly and or warp the rotors. Great video!
Thank you for the helpful hints! Here's one more: Do one side at a time. When reassembling, it's handy to have the other side as a reference on how things go back together. This is especially handy with drum brakes. It also prevents mixing RH & LH parts.
As a retired mechanic, glad to see you young bucks help one another back in my day you became a apprentice ( and everything that applies) I have heard folks refer it as OJT even learning at home on the dairy..or if you could afford it, you went to school ... Take advantage of this means for communication ( y.t ) teach one another take what you learn and pass to the next apprentice. It would have been great in my time to have a visual manual instead of a 3 ft thick book and trust me the pages had smug marks, we didn't wear rubber gloves. I could ramble for ever ..thanks - bye
Those were the good old days. I started to learn on my own. When I watched the Machanic fix my car so easy. Then I had to shell out hard earned cash. So I went to the Haynes mechanic books. There were no TH-cam back then. Now I use both. Learn what ever you can young people.
Georgia!!!
Did you have to walk to work in the snow barefoot? Just curious.
42, took one vehicle to a mechanic one time that was my 03 ram to have the (imagine that) rear end adjusted after replacing it i didnt have the tools or the experience, have had only 1 new vehicle and that didnt last long i got bored. School of hard knocks and busted knuckles evwntuallu you learn how to push and pull on a wrench safely. Lol. I dont think i would have ever considered if a brake pad could be put on backwards if i had however i wouldnt have thought it possible.
I've been doing my own brake work for fifty years, and I've restored eight classic cars. I still learned a few things from this video. Very well presented and very thorough. Thanks so much.
I paid N Tee Bee over 3000, brakes,shocks, struts,tires, they had my car for a solid week after 4 trip's back and forth 40 miles one way. I told them I don't want it back until it's fixed. They never changed or checked the rubber brake hoses. They were clogged. I had to buy new brakes,2 new rotors and be towed in because I had no brakes and they were so hot I thought they were going to be on fire. Owner of IN Tee Bee owes me for trips,towing,new brake's and rotors. You need to Teach N TEE BEE how to change the brakes l
if you dont learn something new each day check your pulse :)
Learnt
Disk brakes are so easy. I learned on drum brakes. The first time I did them myself I put them on the wrong way with the long shoe on the wrong side. After a night I didn't have any brakes. Lesson learned. Take one side apart and do it. Then if you forget you can look so the other side to see how it goes back together
@@stevesilverson5001 drum brakes are, what I call, bitch work. If you are not concentrated during the work, you can do some big mistakes 😅
One important point, do not let caliper hang by brake hose, use a hanger
A large snap/ retaining ring works great for hanging the caliper.
You can use an old 5 gallon bucket right next to the rotor to set it on too.
Yup, did that; one slipped out of my hand though. I don't have any leaks so I lucked out.
I use bungees
i used a bungie cord and had it hanging from the control arm.
To show my gratification for you making this video- I purchased rotors and pads from your company. Thank you guys for helping us save money. This inflation is killing us.
God Bless Y’all!!!!
Cool video! I've replaced brakes on 100s of cars and trucks, but Im not a certified mechanic, and never went to any school to be one. I like and agree with all the tips you have given! I've read through a lot of the comments here and did like most suggestions given by other viewers! The one important thing I can't believe was not mentioned at all, unless I missed it somehow, is the brake dust safety!! The one thing you should NEVER do, is inhale any brake dust! The 1st thing any repair manual tells you is to never clean your brakes with compressed air, because brake linings may contain asbestos, blah, blah, etc, etc. Don't clean brake parts with a wire wheel, indoors, without a mask and other ppe. Don't make brake dust airborn if you can help it. Brake dust is some nasty stuff you never want to inhale! (Don't ask me how I know about that tip being important, lol!) Great tip on opening the bleeder when compressing the piston! I hate dealing with hands full of brake fluid, but it's a must with ABS. Thank you!
Pump the brakes when you finish lol I put it in drive and almost hit a fence
I hit a fire hydrant a couple years ago cuz brakes failed
Puedo abrir la tapa del brake oil cuando esté presionando el caliper?
I almost ran into my other car. After I made fun of someone else doing the same thing lol.
Lol
Yes. It's called setting the brakes so that the pads are sitting in the correct position. Definitely don't want to be moving when doing so.
I don't think putting the pads on backwards is a mistake,I think it's someone who shouldn't be taking the wheels off ever period,lol.
lmfao i was just going to comment the same thing but I wonder how many times it happens
lol true that!
At 1st, I thought he meant upside down. With the squealer on the top/ bottom. Lol
I seen it. I work at a garage 😂
was about to say the same thing
At 55 I’m just now doing my first brake job so I truly thank you for sharing your mechanical knowledge.
Heck yeah Nathan. Get it done 👊
I'll be 59 in a few days. I'm getting ready to do my 1st brake job.
Really informative, thank you. Another tip, probably already mentioned... Don't shake the bottle of brake fluid before use. Especially if your filling a dry system. It's a common reflex for most of us to shake a can or bottle of something we're about to use. Thanks again!! Lots of good comments!!
This YT channel has some of the best information I have ever seen! I mean, no B.S straight to the point and all the information is EXTREMELY VALID! Pay attention folks. You can learn A TON from this site. I know I have!!!
Take a picture of the drum with hardware before you disassemble the springs. Each side is different and it will save a bunch of time.
That’s for drum brakes not disc
Good advice for any maintenance or repair.
@@ypcomchic Yea hints why he said "drum with hardware".
Great advise for a newbie!
What if they where previously installed wrong??
Great tips! Some things worth mention: always wear safety glasses, especially when wire-wheeling hub assemblies, fasteners, or banging on a stuck rotor/drum. Use a 3/8” torque wrench and torque the caliper bolts to spec. I CANNOT stress this enough as I’ve seen overzealous junior technicians sheer off the head of a caliper bolt from over tightening. If you are new to DIY, do one side at a time and take pics/video if necessary. This will save you if you have to step away to address something else. You may forget how things were taken apart. This is especially true if you’re working on replacing shoes on drum brakes. Lastly, don’t be afraid of using brake cleaner… it’s cheap and cleans 99.99% of any residue left behind on pads and shoes from your hands when reassembling. Cheers! 👍🏻
It's safe to spray (with brake cleaner) the pads directly and wipe them off, Incase you get grease from your hands on them?
@@dman2007 yes. Even if desperate, soapy water. Brake cleaner best.
Make sure that the new pad tabs are gliding in the tracks freely. Since the steel parts of the pads are stamped out at the factory, they can be cut at an angle or have a bad edge causing them to hang up and not hit the disc flatly. You can file them or use a grinder to get them square enough to float. And THEN use the grease.
I've never done my own brakes before. After watching this guy explain the do's and don'ts, I'm confident I can try myself and do a great job. This was a fantastic video! 👏
this made me even more worried to do my own lol
It’s simple just take your time and after you do it a few times you’ll be a pro and save a ton of money
Its not as difficult as it seems. Just take your time, research ahead of time helps alot. And make sure you have all the required tools before beginning.
As a hobby mechanic and someone mildly OCD, I found this video very satisfying. Even as some that has done brakes all his life, I found some additional takeaways of value to me. Cheers and Thank you ❤
An excellent video! One thing is missing which many DIYers may make mistake. The grease for the caliper slide pins should silicon grease rather than grease you used on the brake pad back plate.
Depends whether you have metal to metal slide pins or metal in rubber slide pins
Since you have to compress the pistons back in the caliper to make room for new thick pads, remember to slowly pump the brake pedal til it gets hard - before you put it in drive!
Meh! They’ll just get a little scare on the first drive out with the new brakes. It’s good for the heart
I learned this the hard way, almost ended up in a fence. LOL
My friend rolled into my parked car because he did not pump the brakes after replacing pads.
My dad is a mechanic 👨🔧 he help me do my brakes
Then he said let’s go test them out so we hop in the truck and soon as we pull out the drive way I tap the brakes and the pedal went down and I panic 😱 there no brakes he was laughing said just pump them your ok 😂
Yeah good
Times 🤙
@@adrenalinehigh2070 LOL
Another tip I found out the hard way - when changing brake fluid, always use the ring end of the spanner to crack the nut. They are often very tight and the open ended spanner can damage the nut.
I’ve been working on my own cars for years, including brakes. This is an excellent video and I picked up some little details I hadn’t thought about. For newbies out there, wear nitrile gloves, keep your hands clean & wipe your gloves to keep your new parts clean. Use brake cleaner to clean new rotors as they have oil on them to prevent rust.
Excellent video. I do all of my own brakes including caliper rebuilds. I would add a few points: The Caliper Guide Pin Housing can be worn causing shuddering too, how to visually inspect flexible lines for signs of perished cracked or bubbled hose. The importance of the seal on the Master Cylinder cap to limit ingress of water, even from humidity which will deteriorate the brake fluid. Further to that, every February I do a complete Fluid Flush to the entire system. When you break a Copper Washer seal, best practice is to use New Washers. Cars love maintenance! Your style of presentation is excellent!
The biggest thing I noticed was that there was no sense of caution regarding pushing back the caliper pistons. This is actually a delicate procedure. IT IS IMPORTANT that you BE VERY CAREFUL WITH CARS WITH ABS to avoid pushing fluid back through the system. The video tell you you can open the bleeder while you push the calipers back, but fails to mention that you MUST DO THIS ON VEHICLES WITH ABS or risk damaging the ABS pump. Ideally, you should use brake line clamps to pinch off the flexible lines and make sure all the fluid is pushed out through the bleeder. Furthermore, in the video, you can see the technician align the tool off center of the piston... Actually, you should be careful to try to center the pressure as well as possible on the piston. This is most important when the piston is at it's furthest extension (i.e. when you are replacing worn out brakes) because it is then that it is most at risk of being wracked in it's boar, which will marr the piston and cause it to leak.
The video says to match the squealers to what comes off the vehicle, but that's not always the best way to go because you can't be sure the last person got it right. The Squealer should go on the inside of the caliper pointing against the rotation of the rotor. This is because the sliders cause friction, so the inside pad sees more force, causing it to wear more quickly. Compounding this, the sliders also allow the caliper to wrack slightly from the braking forces, causing the leading edge to dig in and the pad to wear at a slight angle. Calipers with pistons on both sides of the rotor are less sensitive to this because there are no sliders. In this case, you just need to watch out for interference between the caliper and the squealer or other irregularities in the shape of the pad. Some pads don't have squealers... this is also normal. The orientation of the squealer is important because it's a warning signal. You want it to start rubbing the rotor as early as possible. If you were to position it at the point where the pads wear the slowest, it might not warn you your brakes are low until after the metal backing contacts the rotor, which could mean that you have to replace your rotor prematurely.
I would have to say that the most overlooked element of doing breaks is the sliders. Sliders should be serviced with every pad replacement. This means they need to be taken apart, cleaned, inspected for excessive wear, lubed, and reassembled. This is super important, but it's often overlooked.
It is also important to visually inspect of the old pads. Their condition may indicate other possible issues. Some difference in wear from the inside pad to outside is normal, but a big difference indicates a problem with the sliders. Uneven wear from one side of the vehicle to the other indicates a problem with the flexible brake lines. (the rubber hoses that connect between the body of the car and the caliper) It is also normal for rear pads to wear far less than the fronts. If you are changing rear pads as frequently or more frequently than fronts, there is probably a problem.
Another important thing that is often overlooked, especially by DIYers is the brake fluid itself. It doesn't last forever. It should be flushed from time to time. This is easy to do while you're servicing the brakes, and can be performed without doing an air bleed, if you're careful. There is a process called "gravity bleed" where you open the bleeder nut at the caliper and let the fluid bleed out under the force of gravity, topping up the master cylinder as you go... make sure you don't let the master cylinder run out of fluid, as this will introduce air into the system, which is a huge pain. If you do this at all 4 wheels long enough, you will replace all the fluid in the brakes without introducing air into the system.... I can't stress enough... DON'T LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN OUT OF FLUID! Letting the master cylinder run dry is probably the worst thing that can happen when you're doing breaks, as it's is very tricky to bleed a master cylinder, and it usually requires you to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it to do it right, and then you will have to do a bleed to get the air out of the calipers.
your coverage was better
Wow, thanks for the awesome follow up. Hit some important points. Like the gravity bleed. Question? Do I open only one of the caliper valves?;all four at once? Thanks again
Thank you !!
You'll find a lot of people who do brakes all their life and never have any issues with resetting the piston with bleeder closed. Doesn't mean that's correct but the only risk is if there is debris in the lines. If the brake fluid is being changed on time and you do a full bleed out if you have to replace a brake line/piston, you're probably fine.
At a shop or with a used car where maintenance is a mystery, it pays to play it safe. For a home mechanic, it's still little extra effort and it lets you better assess whether the piston is travelling in correctly
when pushing back the cylinder with the tool, should i leave the cap open or closed where you insert the fluid ?
Great video. I picked up a trick or two.
Also, for removing stubborn rotors I find a rubber mallet better than a steel hammer at times in that the mallet doesn't leave marks.
That or if your rubber mallet or plastic dead blow has wandered off, smack a block of wood set on the rotor. Anything to avoid metal to metal, not that I have shattered a rotor or two in my time?!
rubber mallet is all I ever use to get the rotors free
A dead blow hammer adds a little umph that
You can’t get from a rubber mallet. Great video.
Deadblow hammer
I wished I lived in a place where a rubber hammer would remove a rotor! Very rare that we don't replace the rotors for new, a air hammer with a hammer head bit will most times break them free. My OTC 7-ton rotor remover is always close by for those stubborn times.
All very good points, one of the best videos I've seen on brake maintenance, I even learned a few tricks I didn't know. One MISTAKE I noticed, at time index 6:40 the slotted Rotor you put on was for the Front (Passenger Right) side. The best way to tell is is to look at the slots on the top portion of the Rotor. The tip of the slot closet to the center of the wheel will be pointed forward and down at the ground, and the outer tip of the slot will always point up and towards the rear of the vehicle. This is so that as the wheel turns the water will move outward and towards the rear of the vehicle and off the Rotor. If the slots are reversed the the slots in the rotor try to force the water inwards while the centrifugal force on the water is trying to force the water outward, this can cause the pads to partially float. Of course this will reduce brake efficiency, defeating the purpose of Slotted Rotors. So always have the inner portion of slot on the top portion of the rotor facing down and forward. When purchasing Slotted Rotors a good manufacture will label the Rotors Front or Rear (Passenger or Driver) side. Other than that I loved it. thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
being a non expert, and doing this every few years, I find that it helps me a lot to take photos with my phone as I take things apart to help if I run into a challenge putting it back together.
I remember doing brakes on the old drums. Removing all the springs and making sure the plunger didn’t come out of the cylinder. Disc brakes came along making a brake job so much easier. Thanks to all you who make these vids for the DYI folks. Remember if it looks to hard take it to a service tech and for gods sake keep safety in mind by using jack stands…
Work on one wheel at a time, especially drum brakes. Lay your parts down carefully and they will act as a guide for reassembly. If you have a question you can look at the other side.
A length of tubing to drain fluid from bleeder into a bottle will keep things neater.
Doing a brake job you shouldn't ever need to loosen the bleeder valve. So I don't know of I can take any of your advice.
@@JM-yx1lm new fluid? It absorbs water over time, new fluid prolongs the need to flush.
@@JM-yx1lm firebird77clone firebird's advice is good. New pads are thicker than old, so the caliper pistons are further into the caliper body. The brake fluid has to go somewhere. You can either bleed it off, or spill it out of your master cyclinder. Pick one.
@@JM-yx1lm It is a way of replacing some of the old brake fluid.
This comment is correct
Few things to add , I’d check the axial and radial movement on each wheel before removal to see if it has any bearing play .Then check all bleeders on each calipers before brake removal if they’re not seized .After that check pads condition ,to see if its normal or uneven wear , this will give you to an idea of seizing piston in caliper and or slider pins locking up . Also not shure if mentioned ,rear brake shoes also could be put on backwards accidently ,not knowing which is primary or secondary and this leads to locking up rear drums .Lastly ,If you are not 100% confident ,seek for help so you don’t put yours or someones life on the line .
Take your time and take pictures and try to memorize the way you took them off, if you can't remember check the other side
yes, axial/radial movement check
this is the most important step imo
Thank you guys for another great video. I'm not a mechanic, but I do all the repairs and maintenance on my family's vehicles. Ten vehicles between my wife and I, our kids, and my parents. I turn to 1A Auto on a regular basis to learn more and to understand the components I'm working on. You save me a lot of time and money!
Maintenance and repairs on 10 vehicles. I officially proclaim you a mechanic now.
@@EfficientRVer yeah a maintenance tech at least lol
Of course you are a mechanic!
Excellent video, I do everything you do, so many think a brake job is just pads and rotors, thanks for being so thorough
Yes I can’t believe how much I wasn’t checking or doing. Great video!❤
Great video, I have done at least 500 brake repairs in my life but figured I would watch anyways. Another helpful tip you didn't mention is before reinstalling the caliper shims (after cleaning rust under them) is to apply a small amount of the brake grease/lubricant on then reinstall. This will help to prevent it from rusting again so easily. When it rust under the shims, it makes it too tight around the end of the brake pad framing where it should be able to easily slide causing them to not retract which will wear your pads faster of course.
Hey. I've got a question for you since you may have run into this before. After getting new pads/rotors/calipers on my '03 4runner (took it to a shop) I notice a clicking sound from one wheel as I drive. Braking or not, the sound doesn't change. What do you think is causing that? They said to bring it in so they can adjust it but it got me interested in what it may be.
@Eric could have been a few things. Could have been the backing plate was bent in a position that it was rubbing on something which can easily be bent back. Or one of the pads were loose because of a broken retaining clip therefore the pad can shift around and click/rattle.. few other things it could be, nearly impossible to pinpoint without actually taking it apart and looking myself. Did you end up figuring it out ever?
Out of all the diy brake videos I have seen, this one makes me feel the most confident. Thank you so much for posting it. Of course this is the first I've seen on this series, so now I need to go watch the rest.
Remember to always read the directions for your particular brake pad. For instance, if it has a factory anti-squeal coating or to apply an adhesive sticker to the back. These will specifically state not to use any grease on the back. Some pads also have a break-in coating that require you to make a series of hard stops after installation.
+Sean McGroty Thanks for the tip!
Many manufacturers require you to bed in brake pads after installation to ensure proper traction between the brake pad and rotor. This stop-and-go process, sometimes called “burnishing,” alters and usually increases the coefficient of friction between the rotor and pad to ensure stable braking power.
Despite the common use of this practice, however, not all brake pads require breaking in. Akebono’s ultra-premium ceramic disc brake pads do not require this step because they are precision engineered to perform and mold to your rotors over time. Thus, there is no specific burnishing procedure needed with Akebono brake pads.
Very good video. The additional comments that I have are:
- always remove, clean and regrease the caliper slide pins. If they bind at all it leads to uneven or premature pad wear
- I always use Pipetite Stick on all threaded brake line fittings and bleed screws. This compound is non-hardening, crayon consistency, and is compatible with all fluids. Ensures that years later you can still loosen the fitting as the stick keeps the water out of the threads
- If replacing the caliper with a rebuilt unit check the bleed screw prior to installation. I have had a couple calipers now where the screw was damaged or the threads were not properly tapped
- watch for anti-rattle shims that are too tight. If they are tight when new, then throw them away. My Honda's rear pads bound up and almost seized the brakes because rust built up under the shim and would not let the pad release. This after only 50,000 km in a climate not know for excessive rusting
Some of these I had absolutely not heard before. The piptite stick is especially novel and I'll be buying one to use when I make new hardlines for my truck's clutch!
Your videos have been lifesavers for me 20 + times. 1A auto videos have the most comprehensive training A+ on details. Love the lady on the team she has inspired me with her great videos.
And, I put a vinyl piece of tubing over the bleeder during piston push back so fluid goes into a small can and not all over the place. Also use only a 6 point socket on the bleeder to avoid rounding it off. Make sure ya top off master cylinder with the correct DOT. Just a few words of something that may help
Thanks for the great tips. One thing to check if reusing the rotors is the thickness. The minimum thickness is usually embossed on the side or on the rim of the rotor. If the rotor looks fine but has reached the minimum thickness, it is time to replace it. Also, hand-tighten the caliper bracket and the caliper assembly bolts to make sure they are not cross-threaded. I have damaged more than one bolt without realizing it was cross-threaded and the torque wrench did not do me any favors tightening those. Also, I replace the caliper guide pin rubber boots each time. Lastly, subscribe or acquire a factory service manual for your car and follow the torque specifications. Do not use impact guns all the way to tighten nuts that require a certain torque.
Where did you find the calliper guide pin boots?
@@desdonaghy I bought some for my 08 Ram 3500 off Amazon. They were 4 to an order and not really expensive. I believe my local NAPA carries them also.
Getting ready to replace both front and rear rotors/brake pads, while also checking ABS wheel sensors on a 2000 GMC Sierra. This is one of the best videos I've seen, and as a first-time installer, thanks for all the great tips. I'm going to take pictures as I go along, and will definitely be watching this vid a few times before I start!
Your how not to videos are as good as your how to. Love your slow, clear directions, content, and camera work. Almost as good as ChrisFix.
I agree 100%
Top notch video.He's thought of just about everything and the few things he missed were covered in the comments. As for putting brake grease on the friction surface of the pad, the only thing I can add is I hope this guy never does a video on how to shave with a straight razor and how you should never slash your carotid artery while shaving your neck.
Chris Fix is good
I changed my disc and pads today. Then I watched this clip. But I watched a clip on how to install a disc and pads before I installed it. Works great and I saved myself alot of money.
1A Auto I really appreciate this video and the way you present instruction to those who may be doing something themselves that is a little beyond them but guide them rather than judge them. The demo on oil and brake fluid was perfect. I believe it is worth mentioning that, "If you are not adequately experienced, consider getting the work completed by a qualified mechanic. They are qualified, experienced and have all the right tools to do the job right, the first time."
On refitting the caliber you mentioned tightening the caliber bolts to the correct torque but you did not mention reapplying thread locker, "If the threads on there caliber bolt have something in the threads that looks like gum, then you need to clean the threads with a wire brush or use new bolts apply a thread lock liquid before reinserting and tightening the calliper bolts to the correct torque."
Great instruction. Thanks so much.
Do brakes by axle: both front, and/or both rear, but only do one wheel at a time to completion.
Great Point!
Put a little grease under the anti rattle clips to stop them from rust jacking,
I've told 3 mechanics and a dealer to do this.they look at you as you told them so obvious and you insulted them . Get the car back and they didn't do it. I just do my own brakes now . Takes a while but Hard as a rock
Great video. Obviously if you are making these mistakes you might not want to do your own brakes. But another tip never let the caliper hang by the brake hose and a good way to make sure the brake hose is straight is to look at the lines on the hose itself or other markings.
+Marc Schvartz Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto Wityh the vast majority of DIYers out there these days with cell phones, why not take a photo of the entire work area so if you forget how something goes, you can refer back to your phone for how it was......assuming it was right prior to your proceedure......lol
I'm 59 years old and have been doing this sort of thing since high school, and I learned a thing or two.
Great video and a good refresher.
Thanks
Great video!!, I didn’t hear one “Ummm” before every sentence, like so many TH-camrs do.
You don’t over explain and get straight to the point. Good camera angles of what you’re talking about. Did fast forward on some common sense items but I know there are people who need to hear those parts. Thanks
Great video! I would add to not let your caliper/brake line dangle when you change your brakes. Use a hanger or bungee to support the caliper.
I always let them dangle. Always! It stretches the brake line and is good for the rubber. Also you should twist them if there old.
@@mr.iforgot3062 dolt
When my son did his first brake job on his Mustang, he flipped the inner and outer pads. The pins on the pad broke the caliper's phenolic pistons. He also didn't torque them properly and lost a bolt. Two of the mistakes mentioned here.
I have found if you do not have a torque wrench, but the bolts on tight, but not too tight.
Thank you for being the only video to actually show the caliper piston being compressed. Love it!
Another great video! Never buy "open box" or returned pads. It's not easy to judge a cheap organic pad from a top line ceramic, until you drive on it awhile. Scammers swap and return pads (and other auto parts) all the time.
Just ordered a few things from you guys and was impressed that everything was exactly what it was supposed to be, unlike the local parts stores who seem to always have something incorrect when getting the parts in
Most common mistake made, and included in this video, is not cleaning and lubricating the caliper slides. Making sure they still move freely is not enough, and if that is all that was done; a guarantee the new pads will be short lived. It is also important to make sure there is no degradation on the surface of the slide bolts themselves, as this will eventually create binding in the slide bore, even if proper caliper grease is used on reassembly. If decay or degradation is found on the bolts, it is best to replace them, along with the rubber slide boots.
Here’s my mistake. My first DIY brake job. Caliber bracket bolts are on the inside. My brain got confused and I turned the first bolt wrong way and snapped it off. “Dang!” While learning how to extract broken bolt it dawned on me what I did. I was humbled.
Lol man that sucks. I was doing my rear brakes a couple weeks ago and overtightened one of the caliper mounting bracket bolts with a brushless impact. Spun the top of the bolt right off. I had to drill it out and clean up the threads as well as go buy new bolts from the dealer before I could continue 🤣
Always look at a ratchet to know the direction you need to be going. Especially if you are going in from behind something.
The good thing is, you will never sheer off a bolt again in your whole life.
Just a hint, When reinstalling the caliper mounting bolts and bracket, use the correct torque, read the specs, buy a torque wrench, good for so many other uses, good investment.
I good trick to remember is righty tighty so grab the bolt and remember if I’m looking at the bolt dead on from the backside then you know which way tightens which way loosens.
Tips for us home gamers: 1. Always pull the slide pins out, clean out the old, nasty crap inside and replace with a good slide pin lube like Sil-Glyde. Doesn't hurt to clean the rubber boots and rub some slide pin lube on them also, as it helps them last longer.
2. Get some good anti-seize and put some on the any non-pad surface that touches another non-pad surface, like wheel studs, where studs press against the rotor, caliper and bracket bolts, and even the back of the wheel where it presses to the studs and rotor 'hat', which makes it a lot easier to actually remove the wheel next time.
3. If you're in the NE, or have real winters, splurge just a little and get the coated rotors. Where I shop online I stopped buying the economy brands and saved myself a lot of hassle going with Centric/Power Stop coated, they're only llike $10 more per set, and way less rust issues and I actually think they last at least 2 brake changes vs the normal 1 on Murano's. Funny thing, my Mom was recently quoted 495 for front and back brakes, each. Of course it a dealer right? I looked online and scored 4 rotors and pads *KOE4100) Power Stops for her 2017 Rav4 for $48 + $23 s/h.
Right now is $96 + s/h.
Took about an hour and a half on a Sat afternoon with BIL, and saved Mom at least 500-600 from any non-Dealer shop.
Disc brakes are about as simple as one can get, and there are tons of good video's on YT if you're apprehensive.
For $200 you can get better than OEM, ceramic low dust coated brakes that will provide you with better, consistent braking without fade, do it in a couple of hours, and save a wackload of cash.
No greasing of the wheel studs, ever. Lubricating the wheel studs lowers the coefficient of friction between the threads of the nut and stud, thus changing the true clamping force of the wheel to the car even when properly torqued. Lug nuts and studs are R&D to be dry fit only. If the nuts are difficult to remove then someone has over torqued them or they're galled, cross threaded, etc.
My Bimmer dealer wanted 2k to do front and back. They had the wrong guy.
@@barrymccaulkiner7092 absolutely. I've heard plenty of horror stories of snapped studs because of anti-seize.
@@barrymccaulkiner7092 so putting nickel anti-seize on the studs & using a 600mm breaker bar with “ feel the tension “ & not using a torque wrench is wrong ? I say not as I have been doing it that way for forty years & never had a wheel come off or a galled or seized wheel nut on the other hand my partners car had dickheads at the tyre shop using a air gun & no lube saw broken wheel studs or nuts that refused to come loose when flat a tyre presented itself . I will keep using the 600mm bar & nickel anti-seize which I recommend to anyone that owns a car to remove way over tensioned wheel nuts especially if you have an issue with strength , joints etc . It is also wise to buy a black impact rated socket to suit which will never break & If you can’t loosen the nuts with this you can snap the stud if need be to remove the wheel . Sometimes there are 2 right answers & the engineered one is not necessarily the best working one.
I've always used WD 40 on lug nuts and studs so they won't freeze up from corrosion or rust .
I use it on battery terminals , too.
been doing it since 1971 .
Dont plan on changing now .
I would add that on some vehicles, the caliper piston should not be merely compressed with that tool or a "C" clamp. Many autos require the piston to be rotated while compressing. There is a special tool available to do this. If you try and compress the piston without rotating you will damage the caliper and will have to replace it.
One thing I learned that is extremely crucial the first time doing my brakes is to hold the 19mm bolt with a socket ratchet and tighten the caliper bolts. This is a safety feature and if you just tighten the caliper bolts like I did they'll probably come loose which is what I experienced. Also, the serpentine belt tool is a great cheater bar and was soooo useful and saved me a huge headache in removing the bigger 19mm bolt. I hope that helps in doing your brakes safely, timely, and efficiently.
I'd add the Three brake greases: 1) Red (Grease) for anything that sits in fluid 2) Silicon for sliders / gaiters or anything rubber 3) Copper for back of pads/ nipples/ joints.
Just a note, I always did brake jobs one wheel at at a time. This saved the problem of mixing up right left and front and back, though the last was seldom a problem as front and rear have generally been very different, especially in the day when I was working as a mechanic as most cars back then had drum brakes, with only high end cars having disk brakes and then except on some exotic race cars only having disks in the front.
Nice Video ! I always open the master cylinder cap and put a towel under it, when pushing the Caliper piston back in .
this allows the fluid to return without a problem and is easier that messing with the bleeder valve .
Make sure to replace cap when done .
Yeah except you are pushing what is probably the dirtiest fluid in your system (from inside the caliper) back up through the ABS pump and into your MC. Nope, opening the bleeder valve is a piece of cake and allows the fluid to escape. Then you add nice clean fluid to replace it in the MC.
@@StilettoSniper would you then need to bleed the line if you crack the bleeder this way or no?
@@StilettoSniper In the Rust belt , You dont want to mess with rusted bleeder screws unless you have to so , YES removing the master Cylinder cap makes more sense . The Caliper fluid isnt any dirtier than the fluid in the brake line .
Excellent and comprehensive video
Only thing I think you missed is front brake callipers are push in and many back calipers are turn with a tool
Great video. Nice thought about loosening the bleeding screw while compressing the piston. I've always loosened the cover of the brake fluid reservoir. I would have liked you to add a portion on the correct way to install slotted rotors. I bought 4 for my 2008 Toyota Highlander and immediately began hearing a kind of wind noise. I figured I installed them the wrong way. The only other item I'd add is how to compress the piston on the rear brakes that have the electronic parking brake. I changed the rear brakes on my 2016 Subaru Outback and learned I needed a special tool that would turn the position while compressing it. Great video. Loved your instructional videos. They make us all look smarter than we are!!
I've ruined an abs unit simply because I didn't pop a bleeder when I compressed a piston. Crazy what a tiny bit of rust can do to a valve train. Edit: also bubble flares are called ISO Flares as well! Found that out in a foreign shop.
When doing the rear rotors, remember to release the hand brakes! I forgot to do this and I was wondering out it wouldn’t come out 🤦🏻♂️
I wasted about 30 min doing this. felt very silly
When striking the rotor or drum, thread the lug nuts back on flush with the end of the stud to prevent damage to the lug threads.
If the OE pad material is semi-metallic, then that's what you want to put back on. Different pad materials are designed to work at different temperatures and could cause the rotors to warp more easily.
Don't put grease on the brake pads. If it actually made any difference, then auto manufacturers would put grease on the pads when the car is new. The grease could also cause dirt to stick and do more harm than good.
The audible wear indicators or squealers typically go on the leading edge of the brake pad. If all of the brake pads don't have wear indicators, then the ones that do go on the inside/back of the rotor.
I prefer the coated/painted rotors because they don't rust on the non-braking surfaces. Not only are they more aesthetically pleasing, but they'll also dissipate heat better because the cooling vanes will be free of rust build up.
If you don't put grease on it, it will squeal like mad. You won't notice a difference on brand new cars because all is still clean and shiny, but when you change brake pads for the first time, there is a lot of rust and dirt on the caliper and piston and you WILL get horrible squeals on metal-to-metal contact. That's even more true if the car is driven in areas with a lot of moisture and salt. The alternative would be to take them off completely, clean and sand every surface that makes contact with the brake pads and hope every metal surface is still flat and even enough not to produce squeals anyway.
It's impractical and the grease also makes it easier to change them the next time too.
lots of good points.
Passenger vehicle brake systems don't generate enough heat for rotors to warp, regardless of pad material.
The rest is decent advice though
Grease saves brakes in Canada the salt and snow rust the brakes so fast and without grease th brakes seize in the slides maybe down south where the cars don’t rust it’s fine but it’s good practice to always grease the pads
Car Manufacturers don't put grease because like buddy said everything is squeaking new but also they don't wanna sell something that will last to long.... Just look at the car parts that used to be made out of metal like blowing fans, even the radiators are now mostly made of plastic so they don't last as long, So you need to change them, so You get $$ out of you wallet..
I guess this vid came up because I recommended you guys to a buddy and he sent me a link to confirm the part. Always have gotten good parts from you, saved a lot of money, and have confidence in them.
+Rick Sanchez Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
i finally found someone to watch who gets straight to the point. thank you
Great video! I love the in depth explanation of a complete and correct brake job. As for rust, I live in the rust belt. A wire brush is pretty much useless to remove heavy rust scale. Use a file or something abrasive. I personally like to use a needle scaler. Similar to an air hammer except many small "needles" that dislodge the rust scale. Then use a wire brush and apply some rust deterrent like anti-sieze. Thanks for teaching! So valuable.
welders chipping hammer
or tap it with a sharp chisel .....
Ive never replaced brakes myself so I'm grateful for videos like these
You gotta try it. It feels so good. Especially when you apply anti seize knowing these shops would never take care of your car the way you do.
It’s beautiful to know that you have done the work yourself and that you have done it correctly. I trust my own mechanical skills over jiffy lube technicians.
@@thronewalker1153 Jiffy Lube...ha, what a joke!
@@OffNas Be careful with anti-seize. You're in for a bad time if it gets on your studs
It’s simple the hardest part is actually jacking the car up and getting the tire off. Once that’s done brakes are easy unless your doing drum breaks
One trick I heard was spraying everything down to minimize airborne brake dust going in your face
@ 3:10 that reminded me of the time When I was 14 and I polished the wooden stair case because my mom said I didn’t clean them right the first time. So I went ham and REALLY cleaned the stairs. People slipped. Belts were whipped. It was bedlam
Great video to watch out for doing something wrong. Remember that brake fluid can damage your paint. If taking the cap off the reservoir when compressing calipers then put lots of rags around so not to get fluid on the paint in the engine compartment.
use the old pad as a plate to compress both pistons at the same time in a dual piston caliper.
...or a three piston, or a four piston.
@@craigerickson1910 You'll never see a 3 piston set up (it would be a 6 piston fully floating caliper). For those you need to use a dual sided pressing tool that'll do both sides simultaneously.
@@KR4Z3D666 There's 3 piston calipers. Jaguar for one. Plenty of motorcycle calipers with 3 pistons.
- never hang your brake caliper by the hose. use some type of creative bungee hanger. even an old coat hanger.
- when you remove 1 pad take a picture. remove the second pad - take another picture. you'll have all the evidence you need to reinstall them correctly. the photo won't forget the details.
- put your lug nuts on the studs to protect them from your hammer if you need to strike the rotor.
- while replacing your brake pads - remove the caliper sliding pins - clean and lubricate the pins and pin bore - lubricate them with the appropriate grease. if you don't- your caliper will probably seize on the pins prior to your next pad replacement. ( especially in rusty states ) your brake will not release from the disc / rotor burning both - and only the compression pad will contact the rotor.
- BRAKE BLEEDING : PRESSURE METHOD ( made easy ) brake fluid is nasty it absorbs water and causes corrosion inside your lines and calipers. your favorite hardware has clear vinyl hose for bleeding. get a piece of clear vinyl hose of the correct diameter that fits tightly on your bleeder. 25' or so. fill reservoir FULL TO TOP. ( never let the reservoir empty during this process ) starting with the right rear - open bleeder - install bleeder hose - pump brake until steady clean fluid comes back to reservoir visible through clear hose ( into a catch container ). close bleeder. REFILL reservoir FULL TO TOP and repeat - repeat - repeat. you just bled all the contaminated corrosive fluid out of your brake system.
- ALTERNATE GRAVITY BLEEDING : use a piece of clear vinyl hose like above about 8' long. jack vehicle front or back. remove both wheels from same axle. FILL RESERVOIR FULL TO TOP. route hose VERTICAL up side of vehicle fender well. ( see buoyancy ) loop over masking tape or magnet holder- and down into container. open bleeder and install hose. now go work on the OPPOSITE brake. ( DO NOT ALLOW RESERVOIR TO EMPTY ) by the time you finish changing brakes on left - the right brake will be bled. close bleeder and swap positions and REFILL RESERVOIR. all gravity, buoyancy and physics. no work involved. if you don't understand these instructions - and how simple they are - do not do this. when you understand these physics and how simple this process is - you'll be able to replace your brakes and bleed them in the same time with no help.
+mixter7x7 Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Another tip: some rotor are side specific so don't mix up right with left and vise versa. They sometimes have R or L printed or engraved but double check with the box and the new rotor so you put it in the correct side.
That I did not know
Only ever heard of that on drilled or slotted rotors
good point - the internal cooling fins in the gap between the inner and outer rotor surfaces will not work if R and L is not respected - always do 1 side at at time and compare parts taken off to match the ones to be installed
I like the way he tells you what not to do, why not to do it, and actually shows you an example. Pretty cool!
We use Blue Dawn to clean rotors now in the industry. Removes the oil coated on non-coated rotors, or grease marks from your fingers. Also lifts any metal debris out of the rotor surface left over from the machining process. That ensures that debris doesn’t bed into the pad, causing a squeak down the road!
Great video! I have used a rubber mallet or dead blow on rotors before. They do not dinge a rotor up like metal on metal. Whats your thoughts on cracking the reservoir cap versus a bleeder? That is general what i have done and used a large c-clamp to go inside the piston to collapse. Thanks 1A Auto!
I like the dead blow hammer if I'm reusing the caliper.
I crack the reservoir cap when pushing the pistons in. Less messy and less cleanup. Once the pistons are in I then tighten the cap to keep the fluid from absorbing moisture.
Like the new content. Doing these types of videos is so much better where you are doing more than just a repair. The dos and don't are great! Keep the new content coming.
+paul murphy Thanks for the feedback!
Always torque your wheel lugs in star pattern in 4-5 increasing torque increments. Also, many OEMs require DRY studs, not lubed or you will over torque your studs. Not always for all cars, but worth paying attention to.
Absolutely fantastic! One of the best on TH-cam. I've been doing my brakes for decades and I've learned something watching your video thank you.
I think not letting the caliber hang from the brake line is important also. You definitely hit way more points that I would have thought of. Thank you..
4:54 - also keep in mind sometimes a gear puller is needed if the hammer or rust remover technique do not work.
I was shocked when I saw him using copper for a brake line - that used to be a huge mistake! But Google taught me that now, there are copper alloys that are perfectly safe to use for brake lines. That's a big improvement over trying to bend the old steel lines. I learned something new today, and I'm 69 years old. :-)
Modern Nickle Copper (NiCu) lines are just as strong as steel and are so much easier to bend. And as a bonus, they don't rust. They are twice the price but in my opinion, they are worth it.
@@Dave-in-MD Spoton...
True statement...
I stay away from all stainless steel brake lines...
They are a PITA...to get to seat and not leak...
Ask me how I know....
Greatly appreciate your time. Everything you want over is common sense for somebody's been doing brakes for some time but nothing wrong with a refresher course. Thanks again.
Great video!
What about caliper pins that have a rubber ring on them, on the opposite end of where the pin get bolted?
I've always encountered them on just one of the pair of pins.
Which pin goes where, on the top or bottom?
Once again, great video.
Excellent guestion/observation. What do you say @A1AUTO
Over 4M views but only a few thumbs up as a thank you, and thats a shame.
Thank you for uploading this tutorial video and helping so many people like myself.
I didn’t know Bill Burr did brakes :) but seriously thanks for taking the time to make the tips
I cringed when he greased the surface of the pad 😂
Me too, it was an involuntary response I couldn't even help but cringe
yep! i was like NOOOOOO!@!!! oh wait example
I Know it didn't feel right 🤯
Me too! I couldn't help but think: What if someone is watching and following along with what he's doing, without listening well. Or with the volume down. Yikes.
So did I! I literally said Nooooo! Out loud.
Make sure not to get steel/rust particles in a bottle of Loctite. This stuff is basically acrylic resin without the catalyst, because the metal surface of the bolt acts as the catalyst. When you contaminate the bottle, the whole thing will turn into hard plastic.
I truly appreciate that you take your time to show and teach us how to do it properly. Plus closed caption is huge impact to help deaf or hard of hearing to understand what you say. I do replace parts myself plus I had long experience in industry building axles systems for their vehicles. Anyway, everyday is always learning.
Excellent video! This man is the example of how to teach and present material.
Brake pad/shoe repair is simple but HUGE liability if wrong person fudges with. I told one lady when she buckled at price she is paying for peace of mind and my knowledge when she said it didn't take me that long for 100.00 . Ive scene a lot of little things go wrong that could have been fatal on DIY brake jobs. Great video and KT.
$100 for brake job is super cheap.
I always put the pads on backwards. They last forever that way.
lol
Thanks for the tips! I learned a lot. Quick question, when you were looking at the piston, you mentioned that if you see fluid around it you would need to replace the caliper because it would need a new piston seal. It looked like you had fluid in that area in yours, was that the case for yours or was I seeing something else?
Anyone else know?
New technician here ase certified and im still learning stuff i learned some good habits from you thank you definitely will do some of these things next time especially those rusty cars