3D Printing Nerd & I Built a VORON! What went wrong?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- Recently I traveled from Philadelphia to Seattle to build a Voron 2.4 with @3DPrintingNerd! Joel posted a video about the build, but what WENT WRONG? In this video I'll show my preparation for the Voron Design V2.4 build with Joel Telling, and the PROBLEMS we ran into while constructing this fast 3D printer kit from @ldomotorsjason3488!
*** Joel's 2.4 Video: • I LOVE THIS PRINTER! M...
*** LDO Distrbutors List: docs.ldomotors.com/voron/LDO_...
*** BigTreeTech Screen Mount STL: than.gs/m/851510
*** Kris Stankievech: linktr.ee/ktothestank
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Products featured:
*** LDO Voron 2.4 Rev-C Kit: shrsl.com/427oh
*** Polymaker Filament: tinyurl.com/PolymakerASA
*** BigTreeTech 4.3" TFT: shrsl.com/422xl
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*** Main Camera: amzn.to/3c6ULgV
*** Main Lens: amzn.to/3c616cp
*** Overhead Camera: amzn.to/2U4b1nZ
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*** Slider: amzn.to/3nGZ1Uh
*** Lav Mic: amzn.to/2DFwgR5
*** Shotgun Mic: amzn.to/2IjTJiB
*** Mini Tripod: amzn.to/2Eok8Fw
*** Monopod - amzn.to/2C1YEMU
*** Tripod: amzn.to/2yASruf
*** Gimbal: amzn.to/2FNwesV
*** Primary Lighting: amzn.to/2jHROnW
*** Additional Lighting: amzn.to/2DImspx
*** RGB Lights: amzn.to/2UUGAOk
*** Drone: amzn.to/2yDkwkI
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TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 - Intro
0:45 - Preparations
1:01 - Pi Setup w/ Klipper
2:20 - Printed Parts Prep
4:16 - Klicky Probe Assembly
5:30 - Surprising Joel!
8:05 - The PROBLEMS BEGIN
8:55 - No BOOT
10:06 - Z-Home Fail
10:50 - Klicky Probe...
12:20 - My Problem w/ the LDO Kit
13:28 - FINAL Problem
13:50 - Outro
The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. This is not a paid product advertisement. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out. Disclaimer: This is not a paid advertisement. This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them. Some of the links provided are AMAZON AFFILIATE LINKS or others. Affiliate links give the MandicReally a small advertising fee for every purchase made via those links. This does not cost you anything more than if you purchased them normally.
#3dprinter #voron #3dprintingnerd - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
0:09 da beans 🐾
This video is going to be gold for the Voron and LDO team so I really hope they see this to improve some things to help the next end users. I truly hope to build a Voron someday, great work Alan!
Hi, as the Klicky developer, i would love to know your ideas and recommendations for improving klicky documentation, it has improved a lot since release with community help, but can always get better.
How do you feel about voron tap?
I honestly understand you, It's very hard to provide proper documentation when you are so used to the product.
As a Klicky user, please make it a bit more clear that klicky NG is highly superior to klicky. I've had nothing but problems with original klicky, but as soon as I switched to NG, it's been smooth sailing
I just finished my LDO 300mm kit up last week and have been tuning with great success! Such a fun build and I agree, I couldn't recommend the LDO enough, very well packed and labeled. All of the precut wires were such a huge help being labeled and cut to length. Great video, I really enjoyed it. Joel seems like such a fun guy to hang out with (you both do haha).
My favorite type of video for learning!
I built the LDO v2.4 300mm kit. The kit itself is well put together, only minor QC issues, but I wouldn't expect better. I agree, the way LDO specific instructions are done are a bit so so; it could definitely be done better in a number of ways. In fact, LDO even added one of my suggestions to theirs as it was an omission in the official documentation too.
It's a very good printer, but feels like it needs a few small tweaks, refinements, and some mods as default to really be 100% spot on. Some parts I've pulled off it have been near enough perfect.
Hah, I had the same issue with my Magic Phoenix 2.4 kit. They include a number of mods, including the klicky, and at the time (maybe it's better?) they didn't include much in the way of documentation. The build process was a bit of a bear, and when I finally got things set up and I thought I had klicky and auto z calibration configured, I sliced a print, sent it off, and then chewed some big fat lines into the build plate. That took a long time to figure out.
These days, I'm running Tap. If anything, I would prefer LDO just shipped the kit with Tap instead of klicky. Probing off the nozzle is a game changer.
Definately check out Voron TAP! great nozzle probe. just needs a little more hardware but gets rid of the default z endstop and is an overall solid Probe. Been running my Tap´s since... August last year
Yeah setting up klicky was a total chore. Especially if you have an offshoot of klicky like klickypcb. Was bouncing between like 3 different documentations and the discord to get it up. Like you realized the sad part is once you see it up and working you realize it's really not that complicated at all, but man they did not make that setup clear.
I think it's funny that I've been following Joel for years, and I found you on TikTok, I don't even remember what kind of video it was....but then you did a 3D printing video, and I was like "Cool, he's into a bunch of different stuff, I dig people like that...".....so then I followed you over here, and now I find out that you know Joel...such a small world. This is what the Internet is for.
I’ve built the LDO and the Formbot kit for the trident and I have to say I struggle to see the value in the LDO. I found it really jarring to have to jump between the official and supplemental instructions and as you found out sometimes the additional mods as well as the entire printer build can be a bit much. The formbot kit allows you to start quite inexpensively and mod away as your confidence improves
Agree, also to redo the wiring since formbot kit has bad ones.
I am building the Formbot Trident. I decided to get this one over the LDO after reading a lot and watching youtube videos, mainly because I couldnt see the added value for almost double the price, even if it seems to have an overall better quality, and offer more possibilities for frame colors. With time and experience, going for the most affordable leaves me enough budget to improve my build and mod things.
Klipper configs and setup was my number one pain point on my Voron build. It just came down to mis-matched expectations. I never expected to have to do as much heavy lifting getting everything started, let alone integrated. There is no default klipper config. The examples are really just that. EXAMPLES. You can sometimes get lucky grabbing a piece of someone else's config, but its a crap shoot. None of this is bad. I just expected that I would start from a working baseline and grow from there. In actuality, you do start at Zero. From there you get your self educated on the small part you are working on, then implement. Mix/repeat. LOVE my Voron.
Yeah, some better configs would be nice as that shouldn't be too hard I guess. But it's exactly why I'm going to built one, it will mostly be a project on its own while my mk4 is printing. :)
GOT HERE 53 SECONDS AFTER UPLOAD WOOOOOOOOOO
FIRST WITH EXTRA FLARE!
I worked in maintenance at a factory for a bit. They used tens of thousands of micro switches, and it was part of my job to replace them. They had a failure rate chart that they came up with over the years. It did not matter if it was the best switch in the world or the cheapest. They all failed at the same rate. They all suck.
Wonder if the issue you guys were having with the z offset was you guys were applying it to the probe, when it should have been applied to the z endstop position (mainsail gives you the option of either when you save the z offset from babystepping)
At this point I forget but I know we did set Z-offset for Z end stop. I think it may have been a mix of that plus probe offset, but I completely forget at this point. Maybe Joel can chime in as he clearly corrected it.
I fully agree with the clicky issues with the kit. I built the exact same kit 1 week ago. Just include commented configs with all the size option for klicky on this machine. Only manual thing would be to set the dock position and that’s easy.
Glad I’m not alone on that. Having a known working Config to work off of made all the difference versus starting fresh.
If your screen issue was the same one I had, you might have had your two power cables crossed. I had the same issue that whenever the screen ribbon was plugged in the pi wouldn't boot, but it booted fine when I removed the ribbon cable. Finally noticed that I had them mixed up and once I swapped them around it booted just fine.
I've looked at various instructions for the LDO kit, and the poor state of instructions and poor guides for mods is probably the biggest thing holding me back buying the kit and building one. LDO needs to hire a proper technical writer. Some of the links are even broken, such as the nozzle cleaner.
At least the official Voron guides look pretty well written and understandable.
Cool video. I can’t wait to be able to build my own Voron. Also, love the madness shirt. Seems like ska fans are hard to find!
The stigma of Third Wave drove many into hiding. 😅😂
I had the klicky when I first built my Trident 350. I have since gone to a Tap with mechanical switch. Pro's - no more picking up or putting down the probe, so quicker bed levels. Con's - lost about 5mm of travel to the rear of the machine, this messed up my nozzle clean routine.
I'm out in Philly pretty often these days. Jersey boy here.
LDO kit is just the best Voron kit money can buy.
I built a LDO Trident and I truly believe you guys should have built a Trident instead.
It is way easier to setup, it does not suffer the gantry calibration issue like 2.4 and overall printing quality is higher with Trident than 2.4
DIY builds never go 100% smoothly , trouble shooting is half the fun!
I hope no one is actually judging you for Klicky problems. I remember the struggles I had the first time I used it. I look at it as a rite of passage. I could probably do it now in my sleep, but that first time...
That github for the klicky gives me nightmares. I spent way too much time in there trying to understand what they are talking about and what I'm supposed to do with my particular version of the mod. It's full of info so it's great but also presented in the worst way possible somehow.
Although support for the V2.4 is still experimental, and it might not be everyones cup of tea, may i suggest you try out RatOS? It has support for the klicky probe out of the box (it's just a single line to uncomment). All you have to do is adjust the coordinates to match where you mounted yours, it's all explained in the RatOS documentation.
RatOS is quite different from your usual klipper configs, it comes with a modular configuration and the most common stuff preinstalled, so you don't have to know anything about klipper, you don't even have to interact with the command line to get up and running. It is my attempt at trying to simplify the klipper setup for beginners, and is the default setup on Rat Rig machines.
I'm not yelling at the screen, just nodding my head in sympathy. I've built a lot of stuff. 55 years of building stuff starting with a vacuum tube shortwave receiver when I was 9. Mechanical, electrical, CNC machines, some for aerospace, some for fun. Built a delta from parts in 2015, not a total rookie. Building a VMinion became a total pain in the butt at about the same point as you got snagged a bit. "Go here and rummage around to see if there's something sort of like what's in the kit. Once you've got it all figured on out, come on back and we'll send you off again..." Maybe it's just that I hurt and I'm waiting to get some surgical repairs scheduled, maybe it's a drug I'm on making a bit of brain fog, but the last 10 percent of the VMinion build was a total pain. There were a few back tracks earlier, but that was just me looking at drawings incorrectly or not seeing things the first time. Wiring was just a train wreck in terms of documentation. The complete lack of info on squaring and aligning the machine had me conjuring new levels of obscenity, my first bed mesh looked like the face of the Eiger. As a young man I skied black diamond trails that weren't that steep. Once I wandered out to the machine shop and grabbed some precision blocks and squares and got the frame sorted out as I would align any other machine (no, doing it according to the instructions doesn't cut it) it's a great little printer. Also the RatOS config forgot to set a Z max, broke the print on the top of the column after the first print finished. Not sure what the next printer will be, built or bought, but it sure would be nice if the kit folks would be a bit more specific about the mods and the parts that are NOT core design specific. It just seems it's easy to end up getting almost there and then a shop gnome reaches out and slices a knuckle every time you start feeling good about it all again. Already have four other machines under klipper so while RatOS is a bit different the configs and calibrations went fine, although I wish RatOS used the Pi for the accelerometer. Doesn't matter for one machine, but my accelerometer was already wired up to plug into a Pi so needed to grab a bunch of prototyping jumper wires to cobble up the connections to the control board.
Folks should know that they can build these machines, but they are still a LONG way away from even the old harder Heathkit level projects in clarity.
What will it take to build a Voron with Cura or some other slicer built in? I want to make something that has a slicer built in? I would like to have a backup method for slicing if I find I do not have a laptop or pc. I thought of a tablet addition to the screen or just using the tablet to run everything.
Run OctoPrint instead of Mainsail or Fluidd as the web interface, then install the "Full Featured Slicer" extension. Still gonna require a laptop, tablet, etc, to interact with it though. And your experience is going to be severely limited over a more "modern" Klipper install. Especially since that slicer hasn't been updated in 6 years.
Simply put, relying on one machine to achieve all that will always have trade offs. You could buy a pretty inexpensive Laptop that would run the modern slicers & could even be setup to run the machine via Klipper. I've run a Klipper-ized Ender 3 off of a 10 year old NetBook with Linux installed.
Hi, I am building a LDO Voron 350 like you just did. It came with the default sensor and I am about to put the Revo print head together. What sensor did you guys use? Now seems like a good time to make that change before I put stuff together
Overall I’d probably recommend installing the standard proximity switch. Get the machine dialed in and test, then consider going back to change to Klicky. It’s probably better to get it dialed in and running well without that first. I almost swapped out from the Klicky on Joel’s but didn’t have time, then we got it working anyway.
@@MandicReally thanks for the quick reply. I debated doing the ‘while building upgrade ‘ but that can be a double edged sword
I had a similar issue with the screen. What fixed it for me was that I had to flip the ribbon cable contacts and those contacts needed to be facing away from the screen board.
Yea we tried every combination of cable orientation. It was the strangest thing. I’d have thought maybe a bad cable but I think Joel ended up using the same one.
@@MandicReally Wow. Wonder what the issue was! It took me several hours to figure out why my raspberry pi was not booting. Still trying to get my LDO Trident to print reliably due to a bad thermostat on the hotend. I'm getting close though.
@@nathancpotts using the E3D Revo Voron? If so I’d reach out to E3D, a failed Thermistor isn’t cool.
@@MandicReally No. It's a Rapido. I just got a replacement. It just have a different connector so I got to rerun the wiring.
As a vegan myself I find your shirt hilarious. But aloes there are some solid non-dairy choices now.
I hated cheese before I was vegan (I even have an anti-cheese tattoo), so that shirt spoke to me deeply. 😂
Haha i love it!!
❤❤❤
I dint think Voron folks will care at all about printing the V2.4 parts on a Bambu.
We have the capacity to love both machines for different reasons
Was this before the tap was available?
TAP parts weren't included in the kit so we'd have had to source them for the build. I'm personally not sold on the added weight and toolhead complexity of TAP. The idea is great, but I don't personally want all of that added on.
I had the same issue with the Pi/screen and it was because I had my screen ribbon cable in upside down on the screen side.
Considered that. We tried every orientation of the cable. It was so strange.
I thought I had a dud Pi for a while, which really bugged me because I was desperate and overpaid for it on ebay. It's been 100% since, though.
Don't feel bad about the Klicky probe struggles: I've found the documentation for Klicky to be incredibly lacking. Voron documentation is generally great, but a lot of these peripheral mods and addons have *horrible* docs. These people are clearly not meant to be technical writers.
It took forever to set up my clicky in my build
Where do you get your vegan shirts? Also love the videos!
Random VegFests throughout the years and random online sellers. Anyone but PETA, ha. I think that Cheese on is from: compassionco.com/
The moment there is a good idex version of the Voron as a kit - I am in.
Completely agree. Just not sure it will ever happen. I've seen the Tridex and that thing looked pretty complicated. Personally, I couldn't wait, so I bought a Snapmaker J1 back in Jan. Closest thing I could find that was enclosed.
@@kf4hqf2 Are you happy with the Snapmaker?
@@tcurdt I've only had it out of the box a few days. Happy so far, but really haven't put it through its paces. I will say it does feel like a well polished product. Much nicer than the Creality stuff I'm used to.
Have you seen the double dragon? Currently self sourcing for one.
@@adamdewolfe Nice - but an oddly small build plate. I am done with self sourcing though.
Of course he would love it? It cost nothing to have it... all free good being a 3D channel all those amazing pricey printers all free including the spares the sonic pads the Bamboo carbons etc.
No so great for the normal hobby users whom can't afford any of them... So great times ahead for the printing channels though.
klicky is easy. TAP even easier
Put a "TAP" on your 2.4. instead of the clicky.
I've built several Voron's, including for other people and I always recommend people start with the 'vanilla' Voron's before they start adding mods. The basic inductive probe and nozzle probe combo works and all the official guides support it. The mods involve more complicated macro setups that are best left til you are comfotable with the machine, and klipper.
It should be noted that the klicky probe is an optional upgrade for the LDO kit that they just include the parts for.
@@grasstreefarmer Tap is not a "MOD" it's a voron team design upgrade for 2.4. It will be in the next version.
And it is easier to setup as the other solutions.
I almost didnt like this video because it was at 666... oh well, all good things must come to an end
Canakit psu are trash buy the official pi charger works better.
I had an issue with my screen when i did the mod myself. If youre like me, then ribbon cable was installed upside down or not fully seated.
Don't use Klicky! Get TAP. It's way easier to use.
Do voron tap @MandicReally