FAST Core-XY Ender 5 Plus! Mercury One.1 Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2023
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My Creality Ender 5 Plus was my most reliable printer... so I tore it apart! Let's build a @ZeroG3D Mercury One.1 out of my old trusty Ender 5+ 3d printer! Core-XY like a Voron or RatRig, CAN toolboard from BigTreeTech, an E3D High Flow hotend and so much more! Will it be a beast of a 3D printer? Or a beast of a burden?
My FREE STL Designs for this build: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally
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Please consider supporting by checking out my various links:
www.mandicreally.com/links
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Parts for this Build (some Affiliate Links):
*** @lore2486 Mercury One.1 Kit: tinyurl.com/MercuryOneKit
*** @ldomotorsjason3488 Orbiter V2.0 Extruder: tinyurl.com/Orbiter2
*** @bigtreetech5117 SKR3EZ Board: shrsl.com/48vrl
*** @bigtreetech5117 EBB36 Toolboard: shrsl.com/48vrm
*** @E3DOnline Revo Six Hotend: e3d-online.com/products/revo-...
*** @E3DOnline Revo High Flow: e3d-online.com/collections/re...
*** @preciseprinterparts6355 Bed: preciseprinterparts.com/creal...
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Filmed with:
*** Main Camera: amzn.to/3c6ULgV
*** Main Lens: amzn.to/3c616cp
*** Overhead Camera: amzn.to/2U4b1nZ
*** Video Recorder Used: amzn.to/3ymN90U
*** Action Camera: amzn.to/2ATHS73
*** Second Camera: amzn.to/371EhBM
*** B-Roll Lens: amzn.to/2xmg85L
*** Wide Angle Lens: amzn.to/2YiZTmH
*** Slider: amzn.to/3nGZ1Uh
*** Lav Mic: amzn.to/2DFwgR5
*** Shotgun Mic: amzn.to/2IjTJiB
*** Mini Tripod: amzn.to/2Eok8Fw
*** Monopod - amzn.to/2C1YEMU
*** Tripod: amzn.to/2yASruf
*** Gimbal: amzn.to/2FNwesV
*** Primary Lighting: amzn.to/2jHROnW
*** Additional Lighting: amzn.to/2DImspx
*** RGB Lights: amzn.to/2UUGAOk
*** Drone: amzn.to/2yDkwkI
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This video was sponsored by Brilliant
The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out. Disclaimer: This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them. Some of the links provided are AFFILIATE LINKS or others. Affiliate links give the MandicReally a small advertising fee for every purchase made via those links. This does not cost you anything more than if you purchased them normally.
#3dprinter #mercuryone #ender5plus - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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FINALLY RELEASE THE FILES!! You can find all the files I designed for this build available on my Thangs page now: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally
Do you have the files for the toolhead? I’m getting ready to do the mercury 1 on my ender 5 plus and I’m going to be using the orbiter 2.0 with the revo quick change. Thanks for any insight
I love the "it's so reliable let's tear it apart" lol
Now that the hype for Bambu style printers is settling down and with more access to high speed multi material printers, I love seeing pimping older printers. It feels like modding cars or computers. Honestly, this build looks great. I really enjoyed the video 👏🏻
Honestly at ERRF this weekend some folks and I were talking, I likened printing to cars. We will see a lot of people moving forward happy with their Civics, while some of us will keep on buildinghotrods.
Exactly the sentiment I expressed the other day on a FB group. Someone was whining about people "wasting their money modding their printers, just go buy a Bambu" on an Ender 3 page. I told them to think about it like buying a Camry or building a hotrod or kit car. That for some folks it's about the building.
@@05Petedriver As a Voron fan boy I compare myself to being one of those people who builds tiny ships inside bottles... it's not for everyone but it's my hobby! Cool video!
How convenient, I just finished my Mercury One build a couple days ago. Was going to do the serial request today or tomorrow. I love the Mercury One.1 and Hydra Mod, and since it was my first DIY build it'll always hold a special place in my heart
Fantastic build and video. Still loving the new focus on longer videos. Always a great watch. Thanks, man!!
You just gotta love the 100% plug'n'play nature of the Duet hardware with their superior canbus (can FD) protocol on the LC-1 toolboard
Machines looks great! Can't wait to see future videos on it!
Wow. Super nice and clean setup! Video came just in time! I am going to do the Mercury one.1 mod on my ender 5 plus as well! Inspired to do it!! Love your contents! Awesome job! 🎉
Dude this thing is mega, nice job man! I really liked the color and that wiring job is on point!
Excellent work! Cannot wait to see your follow-up video.
I have always struggled to see a use for multicolor prints because I am not very interested in printing figurines but I can admit it looks vastly better with the black accents versus how I imagine it would be with only the pink you chose.
A+ grade on your modded parts too, I can only imagine the hours in F360 that are behind those little touches. Awesome Vid.
Single Tool Head 3D Printers with MMU capability are not just handy for Multicolored 3D Prints but are also a boon when it comes to 3D printing parts that require Supports as they allow you to print the _Support Interface Layer_ ( the last 1-2 Layers between the Supports and the actual Part ) with a compatible but different secondary Material that will still _stick_ to primary Material used for both the Supports *_AND_* the actual Print but will not _bond_ to it even when used without the usual 1 layer clearance Gap thus resulting in decently smooth finishes on the Underside and by _only_ printing the SIL with a different material you'll omit the need of constant and very time intensive material Swaps ( not a concern for an IDEX but that's a different story ) until you reach the layer where you actually need it.
As the other commenter pointed out, it can be very handy for support material. Another use would be to have text in a contrasting color. I plan to print out some trays soon and I would like to label them so I know what is in each one. Without multiple colors, the text would be nearly impossible to read. I could use some nail polish or paint on the raised text but the second material will not wear off over time.
Was looking forward to this!! Thank you!
Would love to see a video on the beds. I was looking at getting one for my E5+ but wasn't sure if it's worth the cost. A detailed video of the differences and benefits would be great for everyone.
Damn , I get so motivated to push my builds further after watching this.
Awesome Job.
I had that same extremely slow response problem with my 5+ - Mercury 1.1 conversion with a BTT SKR 1.4 turbo and Pi4. On occasion I got a low voltage warning and also a throttling warning. It seemed to be a problem with this Pi4 that I bought new. I tried everything to fix it. I switched it out with the Pi4 on my Ender 6. The problem followed the Pi to my 6. I tried a new class 10 MicroSd card. Fresh install of rasbian-lite / Mainsail. Multiple power adaptors. Powering it through the USB-C. I even bought the Meanwell RS25-5 110vac to 5vdc power supply just like yours. I this time tried powering through the GPIO pins. Same problem. I tested the output and it was exactly 5.0 volts. I found a thread on reddit where someone was having the same problem. The only thing that fixed it for them was to increase the supplied voltage to 5.7 volts. The Pi4 is rated for up to 5.5 volts so this person was pushing it a bit. Supposedly 5.5 volts did not cure the problem but 5.7 did. I turned my voltage on my Meanwell RS25-5 to 5.6 volts and it runs perfect now. Nice and snappy like my other Pi4. I'm not sure why this one seems to need a little more voltage but I figured I had nothing to lose as it just wasn't any fun when it was taking forever to respond to any input.
I agree on the EVA 2.4 not being the most appealing tool head. I found the EVA 3.0 to be quite a bit more eye pleasing. There's a special version of the EVA 3.0 customised for the Mercury 1. jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/
Any chance you will be sharing any of your designed parts? I'm mostly interested in the Z chain setup assuming it would work with the stock 5 plus bed. Thank You for all your content and help.
5.7 might be ok depending on the length of wire, because there is also voltage droop (you would have to test voltage output at the end of the cable).
I am using the E34M1 and it is great. The setup is really fleshed out and includes ABL options for nearly every option out there. Highly recommended.
I also am hoping to see those parts out there, as I am building out another M1 and would love to reinforce my machine.
Thank you SOOO much for that link!!!
The cable management is insane! Would really love to see a video tutorial about how you did them.
Hey Mandic you did a really nice build, I like a lot of the color you used, I build my with almost the same part the Revo Six, Orbiter V2.0, Manta M8P with CANBus and hydra the only think is I have to used the same heater bed due to Fabreeko don’t have that bed plate for months a been looking in the page and always said out of stock, your were lucky to get one. I like the combination you use for the Z Endstop and bed level with Knick’s. I like to see future video above the programming and the fine tune made on it. Great video keep post more about this build.
It's beautiful! I enjoy these build videos, keep em coming.
Thank you very much. Glad the suffering is worth it. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
The exact video my Ender 5 plus needed made. Bravo
Love that inverted electronics bay. Been wanting to do it on my Trident
Beautiful build!
Grate wiring, can't imagine how long it took to make it look so nice! I had similar CAN issues and just switching over canboot solved this problem instantly, also klipper build version have to be the same for both motherboard and toolhead boar, over all I agree that documentation for CAN could be better. For response time have you tried running UART instead on USB between RPI and BTT, I see you have screen connected via GPIO pins and per expirinace I know it might be occupying the UART pins but if not Id try that, if not you can also try different cable let say if you use USB2 try USB3 and opposite with correlated ports. Good luck with that build hope to see finished version of it as it's looks amazing.
Love the pink one! I got my Mercury one.1 for at least 2 months now. For now with other 13 printers on top. Mercury one.1 is my favorite.
I’m excited to use it and give it a thorough run, but my initial impressions are super positive.
FYI, the SKR 3 EZ has an onboard IC that supplies 5V at a high enough current to power a raspberry pi. Just tap into any free 5V pin on the board (like on the EXP ports, or WiFi adapter, detection ports, etc) and your pi will be powered automatically once you turn it on. No need for a separate PSU! I’m doing that on my build and it works perfectly.
I'll use the 5v rail on the board for LED strips at some point on this build. I tried using the EXP port for UART connection to the Pi on ReAniMaker and had no luck at all with it, so I didn't even start down that path this time.
@@MandicReally Clean DC for each device separately is much better, for me, in audio it is very noticeable
Cant wait for a Compair and contrast between this and Bambu Lab X1. Print quality and speed wise. I know this rig is best for large bed.
love the color choices! I actually made my Voron 2.4 (350mm) and MPCNC to be Hot pink. One of my favorite colors!
really nice Video, gave me some ideas for my own Project ! Keep up the nice work :)
The synthwave was a very nice touch, man.
This video is awesome thank you. I have been using it as my benchmark for upgrading my ender 5 plus to core xy my only question is can you provide a link to your modded part prints I really like the beefed up belt adjustment and the LED mods you did to the EVA.
I'm experiencing same klipperscreen rotation problem on Bullseye. Using old stable Buster image solved this for me.
Nice build!🍻
That is a beautiful build, sir. Excellent work!! I contemplated doing this with an Ender 5 Plus.. that I sold. Maybe another day.
This was a great video! Inspires me to spend more time on my printer!
Great machine! It was nice to meet you at ERRF.
Pink and black, like it!
The screen might be interfering with processing on the board, i had a pitft50 with 4g rpi4 and the wifi would not work with them bolted together, emi could be the problem
I'm using the U2C and the EBB36 on my Voron Trident and I like the combination.
If that screen is like the 7" Raspberry Pi touch screen. Inside your /boot/config.txt you need to set the rotation. The hang up is it is not "display_rotate=1", it will be "lcd_rotate=1" as it is coming out of the display flat ribbon and not the HDMI. Additionally for the 7" Raspberry Pi screen, you have to comment out the "dtoverlay=vc4-kms-v3d" section. Otherwise the touch screen does not work when rotated.
Fingers crossed it's just a simple setting issue.
I had the same issue with response times to MCU I pulled the pi and went back to stand alone it was that bad in delay I tried for weeks trying too much trying to find the issue on stand alone its almost instant less than a 1sec at least great job will be looking for the follow up
There is a din rail fan mount. It's for the octopus but works for anything. Also there is a mod by a discord member for a z end stop switch. I personally feel the hotend cooling fan is super over kill.
Are your designs available for download by any chance?
worth a try: last time i had poor raspi performance ended up being a badly binned SD card. easy test if you have a spare floating around.
I’m wandering how big is the penalty of keeping x motor on the gantry while upgrading everything else. I feel like difference would be not as big as people think.
for the orbiter v2 i believe there was 2 versions 1 for .35 amps 1 for .85 amps but i could be wrong. not that it cant be a bad motor but also could be that :)
Hi I hope I can help you I have been in the same boat with my btt tft v 24 I v tried to rotate in to portrait mode gave up like 5 times and than I found on a forum that to rotate it you have to recompile the firmware in portrait mode (there should be a repo for that on btt) and you have to put a text file on the sd card or whatever you try to flash the firmware with the title reset.txt this will hard reset the firmware so the touch screen should work, at least for me it did. Btw great work there it looks amazing 🤘
Amazing mod! Love the colours dude. So well done.
beautiful build!!
Can you tell me the link of pink fillament
polylite-ABS?
Great build.
I really want to see an enclosure built for it like how people have made a P1P companion cube etc
Just got finished(well I wouldn't say finished but its printing) with my merc 1 build. I love what you have done with yours. I like your design for the z cable chain and wago mount. Are those available for download?
Ditto
I've got a pi 4b on my Klipper, and I've noticed that the emergency stop is *instant* but sending any other command to it, like 'cancel_print' will take a while. I've been assuming that it's still running a *ton* of commands that have already been sent, and it has to get through that queue before my command takes effect. This is probably less of a problem on a slower controller because there would be fewer commands in the queue.
That's my pet theory, though.
I would love to see more on the Orbitor with the revo. I recently put a revo cr on my ender 3v2, and have been thinking about an orbitor extruder for it. honestly a video explaining how the canbus works and the works would be amazing! thank you!!
I run a Revo CR & Orbiter V1.5 on my original Ender 3. I showed it on my Revo CR review. th-cam.com/video/tU_5jdhukEc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iEpeMtj0ntf3Vi8N
I doubt I’ll have a chance to do a canbus video. It’s a complicated topic to explain in a non-dry manner, and videos like that result in me becoming tech support for the entire audience. Which just doesn’t work out well. Sorry. Quite a few folks have covered it pretty well and companies are working to improve it all the time. Hopefully someone updates it soon to be easier and I can justify that.
I have a BTT Manta M5P & EBB36 using CAN on both the main board and the tool head with the built in CAN controller.
It took me days to work it out and finally get it working.
I went through so many sets of instructions from all over the web to get it working and can also say that BTT’s documentation is very poor in this regard.
Hi Alan,
Any possibility to buy some of the STL you made for this build? Thanks!
Have you posted those brackets anywhere or could i get your stls for them? i really want to relocate my front bar
I had the same issue with portrait orientation. There is a code you can add to the config.txt in the boot folder on the Raspberry Pi that sets up the touch screen orientation as touch matrix is completely separate to the screen orientation. I can't remember the code off the top of my head now, but it was somewhere on the Raspberry Pi official website.
The CAN bus is designed to be highly immune to interference. So the extra shielding is not all that needed. Certainly doesn't hurt. If anything it would help reduce EMI from the printer itself to the outside world.
CAN Bus is only as immune to interference as the quality of its cable, twist on the cable, and shielding it has. Nothing, to my knowledge, in the signal is particularly designed to handle noise. That's why cables like this exist. The one I used is specifically for moving components running CAN Bus communication. When I worked on cars the CAN harnesses were twisted & shield with grounding along their run. If anything they are MORE susceptible to EMI than any other signal wires on a 3D printer. In the design of CAN systems it is common to NOT run the Power Delivery along side the Signal Leads, as that is the most likely way EMI will be introduced. We cannot avoid that on 3D printers, so we have to mitigate how we can.
@@MandicReally So they are not immune to common mode noise?
Besides the frame braces, Eva, and the zero-g files, what are you willing to share?
I have the 7” touchscreen that I’d love to modify your 5” mount and make it fit.
I’m already running a modified stealthburner and a front mounted rail on the X gantry. I also re-did the skirt to house fans, if you’re interested.
dude your videos are great. keep it up
Thank you very much, we are working on the exact formula moving forward but won't be stopping videos for sure.
Hi there and Merry Xmas...
Having a voron was always a dream for me and that why I ended getting an ender 5 plus (thinking once things more stable mod wise I would upgrade it)
I have upgraded the hotend to a microswiss and twice got cables out to fix issues (that to let you understand my basic level)
Do you think such an upgrade is something of my skills? Are there any complete upgrade kits that would turn my ender like yours ? If so which?
Thanks again and keep the good work!
god bless this video, this going to help me a ton
Hi there .. i want to buy a CoreXY 14” cube volume printer, modern speed no record breaking intended
Im up in line for the Prusa XL (after 2 years) but apparently its not what people was expecting therefore I’m not going through with that .. what would u recommend ?
Thanks
Rapid tap is liquid gold for tapping threads into extrusion. 👻❤
The slow klipper response issue.
Sounds like a code buffer maybe?
One thing to add E5Ps is backlash nuts on the z screws, I added some POM ones and Z tilt adjust in Klipper takes maybe a single attempt before its done, the brass ones wobbled terribly and drifted on power offs
I didn't draw attention to it, but I did install some POM Anti-Backlash nuts, you can see them at 25:38
@@MandicReallyperfect, your build is basically perfect
@@MandicReallyHave you had any belt grinding issues on your build, I built mine ages ago but been having issues with belts riding up on the pulleys and shredding my gates belt
@@afkafkafk No issues for me. I'm fairly sure somewhere along the line they improved belt alignment as one of the design updates before it came out of Beta.
Any fix for the slow klipper instance? my ratrig is horible like that!
Do a update video and post some of the links to the parts you used.....I so bad want to see this finished
Great job Alan, really like the build! One FYI, from a guy with a half-built Mercury 1.1: if you gut the Z-axis and get rid of that entire smooth-rod infrastructure, you can move the bed around in the frame, front-to-back, and get more build area. I replaced mine with a mish-mash of 3d-printed parts, and some modifications of other parts from the Voron world. I'm able to do 360*360 on the X/Y now. I'm still going to end with a dual-Z bed, but I personally don't think the Hydra, or any 3-point system, is worth the hassle, but that's just IMO.
can you show what you have done? Do you have a build log somewhere? I am curious
@@riktanius No sir I don't, it's gathering dust ATM. Got too busy with other stuff.
I’ve been waiting so long for this video!
Me too. 😅😅😅 Started this project wayyy too long ago.
Just wondering... Summing up all the stuff that went into this, how does the cost compare to something like a 500mm^3 Rat Rig corexy? Both in price and performance...
... and ... is it just me, but ... PINK??? What were you thinking?
Nice job! I just did this conversion myself, actually. You wouldn't by any chance be willing to share your corner braces would you? I would love to remove the front bar for the same reasons.
Thanks in advance.
Yes, those are available on my thangs page: than.gs/m/22154
I’ve yet to test the effect of the removed bar. I have an add-on that puts a bar down lower and out of the way, I’ll test that Vs no bar for the next installation of this series.
@@MandicReally youre awesome, thanks!
Any chance you will be releasing the corner plates?
Would you mind sharing your config files for this build im work on a very similar build with my ender 5 plus
To start with, that thing looks dope. But what's even left of that ender 5, extrusions and a bed mount? Second, are the slow commands only related to thing on the toolhead? Because if that is so, the toolhead can board might be bad, and not the main- or can adapter board. Also, ModBot already did a video on thermistor vs actual bed temps recently, but he focused on that there is a difference. Maybe you can look into methods to work around it?
I had the same problem and I wasn't even using CAN. I am now and the problem was there before and also after. Only thing that got rid of it was increasing the voltage from 5.0 volts to 5.6volts.
@@MidMadn11118 Who's voltage? the Pi's? 'cause if so, damn, that's out of spec.
That flow rate is wild
Dude those corner brackets......i need those. Plz kind sir.
anywhere to find the cable chain mount for the Z axis?
Wish i knew how to configgure marlin.
(Yes marlin not klipper.)
Reason is i dont need the extra speed. Not quality. Yes i sound wierd. But i do like a different config on my ender 5s1.
I want the steppers outide the box.
For heat thingys.
I usually don’t love pink but the light pink and black theme looks really nice.
@MandicReally so I have an Enders 5 plus and I want to build it up like your E5+ before the rebuild. Do you have links to your parts? Thanks in advance for the help.
Can you supply a link to the custom raspberry pi/screen mount?
Hi, could you share your ideas and models for cable management please? Also if i could ask to explain wireing for this build sińce there is literały no info about on ZeroG website about wireing :/
Você pode disponibilizar os STL do kit que usou na sua montagem ? Sua Maquina ficou muito bonita e gostaria de montar uma semelhante
For the laggy Pi4 - Switch to something like a Sandisk Ultra Fit and change the boot method to USB (Available in the Pi Imager). Micro SD cards are garbage for running an OS, which could be the problem. Second, does that Pi have a heatsink on the chip and a fan to cool it? If not, then I would consider adding those as your build plate is heating up the surrounding air, and may be causing the processor to slow down due to high temps.
Heat sinks on the chip, memory, & usb controller and a 40mm fan constantly blowing directly on the board. The Pi runs cool even with the bed hot.
I run my 2.4 off a SSD via USB, but almost all of my other machines run off SD Cards without issue. Some off this exact same model SD card. 🤷🏻🤷🏻
+1 for checking the SD card, or at least doing some diagnostics to check its read and write speed
@@MandicReally Could just be a case of a monday-model SD Card. But, the best option would still be to run an SSD over USB. Or better yet, swap to something like a Banana Pi and use an m.2 nvme drive.
Funny coincidence. I've been looking at doing this exact mod to my Ender 5 plus. Did you also "investigate" the Zero G Hydra 3 point conversion? I would really like your take on that too. Love the way you present your results and experience, by the way.
I didn’t have any interest in the hydra at the onset as I intended to build a rear electronics enclosure. But after I switched away from that I’m quite tempted to do the Hydra. That said, I haven’t done anything with it and don’t have the parts to say anything about it.
I converted mine to this one, and then decided to take it one step further and modded the kinematic bed from the rat rig, and the XY system and hotend form the vzbot AWD! It's a monster!
@@joseholguin436do you have any of the mods for the rat rig uploaded? I was planning on doing something similar eventually wanna do a tool changer. They are working on attaching a VZbot Goliath Hotend to one as well.
I personally find the stock Creality 5+ Z system to be stable and consistent as long as you have separate drivers on the Z motors so you can take advantage of Z-Tilt. I have no desire for the Hydra mod. If it was a regular Ender 5 or 5 pro with the cantilever bed - I would be all over the Hydra. @@MandicReally
How did you wire the orbiter runout sensor on the ebb36?
Thinking about making this upgrade for myself.
It wires to the I2C port on the EBB36. I’m having trouble finding the info I used to wire it But the I2C has 5v, Gnd & 2 signal pins you can use for the unload command button / sensor signal.
25:05 that Z homing is so smart omg
What spool holder are you using? Did you design it?
Great video.
I was hoping you would show compiling thr firmware.
Klipper compiling is really straight forward, but tedious enough that it would big down any video it’s included in unfortunately.
@@MandicReally i started reading more on the project and realized its clipper. Im good with everything else but firmware.
Great video. Ive now watched a few. Ive learned a few things from you.
Im rewiring a cr10max and i used silicone wires. So i guess im gonna have to redoit To ptfe.
Could be a power issue with the Pi making it slow. The BTT PI has direct 12-24 volt input and I just ran wires directly to rhe psu. Probably be using the BTT for printers here on out
Pi has a dedicated 50W power supply feeding only it. And if never trips any power errors as they usually do when under powered.
Love my mercury.one It just works
For linux there is xrandr command. Yes spells like this. It can set your display output the way you like. For gui use arandr package
I started down the xrandr path but then KlipperScreen entirely stopped launching so I got scared to continue.
Do you offer links to download the printed parts you have on your printer?
I’m struggling to find a use for my ender 5 plus, was looking at dropping the $200 AUD on a silent board, then a bigtreetech board, then seeing the price seems wasteful so jumped back here and started adding everything up,
I think the list of parts will end up being close to buying an X1C? At least it seems that way given all the USD conversions and shipping for myself.
If this just a passion project that isn’t really justifiable to those that just want a good printer?
Like spending 100k on modifying a 20k car, you love it so that’s money well spent in you book but I’m on the outside looking in wonder why you didn’t just buy a newer car?
This is a genuine question as I’m honestly looking at either ordering a PEI sheet for the E5+ and potentially ordering a brand new printer that will get me the speed and quality OR spending brand new high end printer money to modify the E5+
I hope you read this and can help me out with this decision.
Man, that looks awesome👍👍. about 19:08 you talked about the wiring. Great wiring looms. So tell us, how many zip ties did you go through all because of that sneaky little wire you didn't see when you made the ties🤣🤣
100+ 🤣🤣🤣
Any plans to eventually enclose the printer or do you intend to keep it open frame?
None. This machine will be relegated to PLA & PETG printing. Maybe TPU from time to time. I intend it to keep being my silly social media machine for the most part.
Hi Mandic, thank you for making this video. You inspired me to do this conversion as well on a used Ender 5 Plus I got for cheap. Would you be able to share the vector file of the electronics cover that you made? I'd like to make a cover as well to protect myself from the electronics, thank you so much !
The zero-g team has files for the electronics box panels. I just made ones with my own laser that I could only fit a certain size of material in. If you order from someone like sendcutsend, they won’t have that restriction and the Zero-G panels will do well.
Nice video, I've got a merc one.1 that since serial I modded almost every part of it. cause why not? i like the mods you did to the parts. Just wondering if you ahve the pi and screen stl anywhere? Also there is lots of stuff in the mod section of the discord for din rails and fan stuff
Hmmm, I know you from somewhere.
Would you share the link for the z chain mount.
For that slow response check your CAN Connection.