ONE Cable To Rule! Voron 2.4 CAN Install w/ SB2240
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
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Simplifying my Voron 2.4 by installing a BigTreeTech EBB SB2240 CAN Toolboard to the Stealthburner toolhead. Using just one cable to control the entire toolhead of my Voron 2.4 3d printer! And FINALLY finishing my Voron 2.4 into a complete, enclosed, and high speed 3d printing machine.
STLs used:
- Y Endstop Relocation PG7 Mount: t.co/O6uEfQFYwx
- Hex Cable Door Cover: than.gs/m/914383
- PG7 Toolhead Mount: www.printables.com/model/4647...
- Roller Spool Holder: www.printables.com/model/2223...
- Voron Handles: mods.vorondesign.com/detail/x...
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Parts Used (affiliate links):
*** BigTreeTech SB2240 / SB2209: shrsl.com/4683c
*** Mellow Integrated Shaft Gear: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmI...
*** BigTreeTech U2C: bit.ly/3Kp43Tv
*** Polymaker ASA: tinyurl.com/PolymakerASA
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Please consider supporting by checking out my various links:
www.mandicreally.com/links
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Filmed with:
*** Main Camera: amzn.to/3c6ULgV
*** Main Lens: amzn.to/3c616cp
*** Overhead Camera: amzn.to/2U4b1nZ
*** Video Recorder Used: amzn.to/3ymN90U
*** Action Camera: amzn.to/2ATHS73
*** Second Camera: amzn.to/371EhBM
*** B-Roll Lens: amzn.to/2xmg85L
*** Wide Angle Lens: amzn.to/2YiZTmH
*** Slider: amzn.to/3nGZ1Uh
*** Lav Mic: amzn.to/2DFwgR5
*** Shotgun Mic: amzn.to/2IjTJiB
*** Mini Tripod: amzn.to/2Eok8Fw
*** Monopod - amzn.to/2C1YEMU
*** Tripod: amzn.to/2yASruf
*** Gimbal: amzn.to/2FNwesV
*** Primary Lighting: amzn.to/2jHROnW
*** Additional Lighting: amzn.to/2DImspx
*** RGB Lights: amzn.to/2UUGAOk
*** Drone: amzn.to/2yDkwkI
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The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. This is not a paid product advertisement. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out. Disclaimer: This is not a paid advertisement. This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them. Some of the links provided are AMAZON AFFILIATE LINKS or others. Affiliate links give the MandicReally a small advertising fee for every purchase made via those links. This does not cost you anything more than if you purchased them normally.
SPONSOR DISCLOSURE: Thank you to Brilliant.org for sponsoring this video! Check them out at www.brilliant.org/mandicreally to help support this content further.
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Brilliant Ad
2:40 - SB2240
3:06 - Disassembly
3:53 - X-Endstop
4:05 - Clockwork 2
5:01 - Klicky Probe
5:41 - SB2240 / 2209 Install
7:29 - Stealthburner Fans
8:37 - Cable Support & Sleeving
9:55 - Y Endstop Relocation & Chamber Temps
10:30 - CAN wiring
12:15 - Klipper Configing
13:10 - COMPLETE 2.4!
14:44 - Handles
15:02 - Spool Holder
15:27 - Chamber LEDS
16:02 - Back Panel Graphic
16:50 - FAILURE!
17:55 - SB2209 New Stuff!
19:36 - Another Problem...
20:40 - Final Thoughts
21:42 - Outro - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[TH]FFWS SEA Spring 2024 Knockout Stage - Day 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CU9MV8EEIjE/mqdefault.jpg)
To try everything Brilliant has to offer-free-for a full 30 days, visit brilliant.org/MandicReally . The first 200 of you will get 20% off Brilliant’s annual premium subscription.
If you need to run a lower volt fan on 24 volt you can use a inline resister to drop the voltage
Do you have the stl for the new cover with hex holes?
This this type of video and last weeks, are the ones I enjoy the most. Hope to see more like this in the future!!
These two directions are where I intend the channel to keep going so that is really excellent to hear. Thank you 🙏🏻
I was having similar sporadic CAN bus problems. I replaced pretty much every piece of hardware sequentially and nothing helped. Tried the 2240, 2209, multiple cables, multiple U2C boards, multiple RPis, reflashing klipper, updating all component firmwares etc. In the end the issue was 64 bit raspbian + CAN. For whatever reason when I finally switched to the 32 bit version of raspbian everything started working flawlessly. Have printed for several months now without a single issue.
What MCU canbus board and pi did you have. I’m using an original octopus pro with a ebb36 wired to the phone Jack port using a pi 3 running the 64 bit firmware and I’m having lots of issues. Curious if what I’m experiencing is something similar to what you have experienced
@@Andy_ABG BTT U2C and RPi 3B+. Your problem is probably the 64 bit raspian OS. Try 32 bit.
What i probably would do with the LEDs is to have them pure red at layer 1, and slowly turning to pure green at the last layer
That's actually doable. Run a macro on each layer. Based in the layer nr out of the maximum, do the changes ... I will actually try this with the logo color
@@RotaruCosminLeonardmake a video on it I'll watch it
@@RotaruCosminLeonardor just use led effects. Does the same thing but doesn’t need any macros.
I love how you spoke about all the issues you had, including the user error ones. A lot of people forget about this stuff. They see these youtubers build these amazing printers with the idea that they never came across any issues.
I have forgotten how many times I failed to crimp a JST connector properly only to find out on setup.
"Why is this termistor not working?" "lets try other ports"... 2 hours later "IT WASN'T CRIMPED PROPERLY"
or even better
"i have blue and yellow wire left. I'll make yellow positive and blue negative to extend this fan"
"why is there smoke............."
I like the idea for the can cable’s and cover color, nice job!
Love the videos and your whole ethos about honesty, trouble shooting and failure/learning. i will be building my V0.2 as soon as the kit arrives.
I got the SB2209 RP2040 in the mailbox the other day! Looking forward to using it in my Voron 2.4 build next week!
0:41 for the puppy, we found a compression vest for dogs helped a fair bit with thunderstorms. There’s also a plug in diffuser by Adaptil that helped a bit, was most effective when anticipating a thunderstorm
To turn on in advance
Ended up ordering the Mellow CW2 gears because of this video, and I'm very pleased with them! Thanks for alerting me of their existence.
Thanks for this review. Now I'll be aware of making sure I get a board that is JST-XH for sure!
That is a clean looking rig. Well done man! I like all the personalized bells and whistles you added. Also, welcome to Clockwork2 experience!
Much appreciated sir. Thanks for creating excellent platforms to build on. 👌🏻👌🏻
CAN toolhead upgrade seems like a nice challenge and well worth it for the tidier setup with fewer wires and fewer points of failure.
Great video! I’ve never seen you channel before and I’m amazed by the production quality of you videos. Great editing and great cinematography. Anyways, I just recently did this upgrade, and for anyone considering doing this, I think I’ve cracked the code on crimping those tiny connectors. First, break off one of the crimps and use it as a reference to strip back the correct amount of wire. Then, get a pair of needle nose pliers and squish the insulation of the wire just behind the stripped portion such that the squished section is the same length as the depth the wire must be inserted into the crimp. Then take the crimp and put it into your wire crimpers. By squishing the insulation, you should now have enough clearance to insert the wire into the crimp without issue, and you can use the end of the squished section as a gauge for how deep you need to push the wire. After I discovered this, all of my crimps in these tiny connectors were perfect. Hope this helps someone!
Rock on man! Glad it is finally done!!!
The chamber LEDs are very nice. I put one row on the right side and the other across the front. I think this give a much better view than lighting it from both sides. Kind of like your lighting for your videos. You want light from the front too. Also makes the lighting for my usb camera mounted in the front right corner much better. My CAN cable and reverse bowden come from the right side, like yours, but on a Trident they they are much closer to the top of the unit and often would drag across the chamber LEDs on the left side. Moving it to the front gave better lighting and eliminated CAN cable/bowden interference when printed along the left side of the build plate. Keep up the great videos.
Great video, I really enjoy watching, you have a great style and it's always something interesting.
Great.. I also have the CAN on mine but you are missing one more thing to simplify the cabling even more which is the sensorless homming, it works very well on mine. Cheers
CAN issues are definitely fun. My similar issues with CAN were fixed by swapping the Pi 3 out for a Pi 4. I didn't even reinstall and used the same SD card.
I went CAN right out of the gate on my Trident -- I also used a U2C (even though I have the octopus 1.1 with the RJ11 port) and went with an EBB36 because I didn't want to mess with those teeny tiny JST connectors. You sir, are braver than I. I do like the way the two part boards work, though. That's got to be handy.
New subscriber from Joel's channel. This is a sweet looking build. Good job!
That purple wire looks so gooooood! Great tips!
Form and Function! One of the best looking Vorons I've seen. Love the color combo. Does it have a name?
This was one of the best mods that I did because it took a lot of strain off the gantry and my idlers.
I ordered the mellow-fly version of that board.
I am building an Enderwire. I will be using the Stealthburner with a Taichi hot end and two M4 extruders (for dual color printing). One of the extruders will be driven by the tmc2209 on the SKR Mini MCU, the other one from the CAN toolhead board. I will run the motor cable along one of the Bowden tubes. I wondered if I could use a Clockwork2 extruder with the Taichi hotend, but I don't think I can run the bowden tube between them as it wouldn't be a straight up and down run, but at an angle, and probably not enough room. I will use a drag chain for the CAN cable run.
I use the CAN over the Octopus. You can just solder some wires to the bottom of the board and add a connector which then connects to your wire harness. CAN_H and CAN_L are actually labeled on the bottom of the board. You just have to flash the firmware again with canbus bridge enabled. All other steps are the same.
I had a similar experience with an sb2240 I had installed on my Trident. Tons of under-volt errors and after trying many different fixes, I wound up just installing a sb2209 I had laying around in my shop and it has been working just fine.
I had the same issues too. My vendor offered to send me a SB2209 for free to replace the SB2240. It should be in my mail today🎉
@@jonathanmitchell7411 I didn't get so lucky. Vendor just sent me a thicker cable. 😞
yesssss a video about your 2.4 !!!!
Finally getting it done!
If ever I needed confirmation that using Duet 6hc/1lc hardware which is 100% plug'n'play is the smart choice this is it, thank you
yes, that txqueuelen is 100% what was causing your issue. I had the *exact* same problem and that fixed it for me.
Hey Alan, great video! I had done a near identical setup around the same time you did (lost it when you tweeted about the pain crimping the tiny wires because I had literally just done the same). Your method of using nylon filament is DEFINITELY more ideal than the steel cable method as well. Curious if you had a reference link to the cable sleeving you used as I was looking to do similar with mine
Thank you. The sleeving I used in this video was from here: www.titanrig.com/diy-modding/cable-sleeving-supplies/sleeving.html
It’s nothing special just where I was able to get a color I liked to match the project. I usually just use basic PET sleeving (I misspoke in the video): amzn.to/3KohAee
I believe I used 1/4” sleeving but I’m out at LTX so I can’t check to be sure right now.
Great video, but I would highly recommend the CNC tap, over the klicky probe, Way less issues and parts.
That is a very nice 2.4, great job! That usb port on the front seems pretty nice, I will add it to my future switchwire and also I would love to see you making voron tridex. It looks like fun project :)
It’s very useful. I wish I had time to add it to 250 & 350 skirts so I could release it.
Are you going for a kit or straight from the bom? I'm unable to find a kit at all in the uk
Your little dog is like a teddy bear it's so cute!!!
I tried to use a few things to stiffen up the umbilical including string trimmer line and found that most of them had a coil shape memory that caused problems. Then I came up with what appears to be the ultimate solution - a bass guitar string! Bought individually from a local guitar shop they're cheap ($2/each), are flexible yet stiff enough, and have no shape memory. I think this trick is the way to go.
Which one did you get? The lowest E?
@@Stahlfabrik The thickest one they had (I'm not a guitar person so I don't know what note it is). I actually bought a few of them thinking I would probably need more than one to get the stiffness I needed, but found that just one worked perfectly.
As someone that had to redo wire management multiple time due to hot end issues, CAN really seem like a good option.
Also why do all of your videos had that green fringe at the top? I'm really curious as to the reason for it.
What was the full length of the cable used for the CANBUS?
May I ask where you purchased your umbilical sleeve from? I've been looking for that type.
Awesome video and beautiful machine. What software are you using to designs your own products
Happy to hear I'm not the only one frying stuff 😅 excellent machine!
what STLs did you use for the the board cooling fans?
I use the ebb36 without the U2C on my machine, just hook the ebb with the rj11 on the octopro board. I have the same problem, everything is good at the begining. Then klipper shows lots of errors and disconnect the board. So I throw the can wire away, and use the USB cable to connect the ebb with the pi. And everything looks good~I use this way and print about 400 to 500 hours, no problem at all. I still have no idea what's wrong, but use USB cable is stable than can wire.
I have CANBUS on two printers now. Once you do it a couple of times you realize dealing with the firmware is easier than running all those wires.
Yeah switching out my original silicon cables as well with ptfe ones. But ultimately I will probably install a can bus board too….
The y cable chain especially is to narrow.
Can you share STLs for the multicolor skirts?
I would suggest using the lgx drive gear mod for the cw2. You get the benefit of the gears but in a cw2 body. I have bin running mine for over 5 month now.
Really well made video :)
alternatively, you could have used the bltouch port for the leds before you upgraded to the can bus board.
I'm forced to use the sb2240 also because I want to use that driver but they don't offer it with the bigger connectors...
Ohhh that is a good point that hadn’t dawned on me. My next V2.4 will be… different so I may have to think outside the box like that. Thanks
Great video, Alan. I've yet to start the build on hy own 2.4, so it's really helpful to learn from your experiences! If I may ask, though, where can I find the STL from the Octopus fan solution that you used?
I made it. I’ll see about uploading the design when I get a chance to make some final tweaks to it. Thank you as always. 🙏🏻
@@MandicReally I'd like the file for the fan holder as well. Thanks😁
What chamber LED mod is that? Looks great!
Where did you get all the install info? Also what new STLs did you need to print?
Have you released the stl/step for the stealthburner face found at 19:36 to your thangs? I can't find it and I think it looks better than the other versions I've seen.
Excellent project and love the tips, thanks. I notice you have an SSD. Can I ask what you use that for?
I boot the machine off SSD instead of a SD Card. SSDs are designed for longer life spans and overall more reliable while not costing that much more. th-cam.com/video/n6-AdUPklLg/w-d-xo.html
I'm still a little weary of CAM. I've got a pair of V2's and the older one (under 6 months) broke a wire at 1065 print hours. So tempted to go CAM. It was an endstop so I went senorless for x and y, I'm still using the original harness. I guess I'm waiting for more guys like you to make this less scary! :)
Its CAN, btw.
Controller Area Network
Now I don't feel bad that mine has been sitting for a month while I am waiting to get the panel clips and things printed so I can get it fully enclosed to print the rest of the parts since my Voron is the only machine I will have setup for ASA.
Interesting this video came up now.
It seems I'm the exception to the rule here. I kept being told I would be replacing my silicone diy harness in like 200 or 500 hours. Well I have been waiting for that to happen and it took over 2000 hours for it to finally break. I'm going CAN now with an umbilical but I'm realizing I need to move my end stops.
I would love to know what the power draw is for this.
you know I would love if you made a video about crimping those wires (or crimping all wires) cause apparently I suck at it.
Thanks for this! I started to convert my voron 2.4 to use the same toolhead board as well (but using USB instead of CAN). I'm going to use your Y endstop holder! Do you happen to have a link to the epoxy/resin you used to stabilize the wires at the connectors? I having hard time finding a similar product on (Swedish) Amazon.
Here it is on American Amazon: amzn.to/3QpxjgI
And here is their official website: notaglue.com
@@MandicReally thanks! I should be able to find a European alternative. I tried using UV cured solder mask, but it has to be spread thin to cure all the way.
New subscriber... Couple of questions, I am looking at upgrading my trident and this video has been VERY helpful but why did you go with Klicky over Tap? and if you had the same voltage on the fans would you use the RP2040? and specifically what does the raspberry chip do for you on that version?
TAP adds weight, complexity, & possible slop in the toolhead. I'd love nozzle probing over a separate probe, but I haven't felt TAP was for me. It is a great design overall, just not quite of interest to me. I think it may lose you a few MM of Y-axis volume too.
As for RP2040 thing, I would consider it but I haven't tried it to say for sure. It wasn't available quickly for me, had it been I may have given it a run. The only real reason to run it is the larger connectors that I can see. The processing speed of the STM chip on the regular board is fine as far as I can see. It hasn't limited me in any way.
Where abouts on the board did you plug the klicky into please
I noticed you used the original Klicky and not a Klicky NG... Any particular reason there?
I did the NG and I've not been totally happy with it, and I'm thinking maybe I should just print the original after all.
In particular, I think the probing isn't as consistent as it should be, and I've had issues with the adjustable rail mount drooping when I print at higher temperatures. The standard mount didn't line up for me, so I had to go with the adjustable... I'm thinking maybe the original non-adjustable mount will also work with the old head.
So did u wire the klicky probe to the SB2240 cant find documentation on it i think it will work but not 100%
Am I blind or where is your x end stop? Love the y end stop and can cable termination you did. Really great build.
CAN splits the N00bs from the Pro's :)
I think I can say that after successfully having migrated my printers to CAN
I would love to see a video comparison of the LGX vs the MellowFly Gear.
No way I'm converting back to compare, but my next build will have an LGX Lite again, so it won't be a 100% apples to apples comparison, but may be decent to compare.
Do you have a link to the Bowden tube holder ? Looks nice and slim
The one that holds the end of the reverse Bowden close to the spool? That’s a default part of the Voron 2.4 and comes with the STLs for the project. github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/STLs/Spool_Management/bowden_retainer.stl
Are the thermistor holder STLs available?
I need to redo my wiring now, you make mine look messy!
What are you using that SSD for, if you don't mind my asking? Storage or running the pi?
Running the Pi. I don’t trust SD cards and SSDs are so cheap these days, it barely makes sense to run an SD card. Except that it ties up one USB port & takes up more space on the machine.
Look into a Thundershirt for your puppers. I had a dog that hated thunderstorms and fireworks, and once we put the thundershirt on her, she was more calm.
I had a lot of trouble getting my CAN working on mine. Mine ended up being something simple that wasn't clear in all the guides that I was looking at. I also blew my SB2240, I'm kinda glad I did though with all the problems that I've seen people on the Discord complaining about the 2240 causing problems and at that point I was done trying to get everything to just run so I bought the 2209.
I was also wondering if you're going to upload your door cover?
I wasn’t sure if folks would be interested as it works with the BTT main Clockwork2 body. I’ll upload it if folks want.
I had the exact "timer too close error". It happaned on my Voron 0.2 Mellow Fly-SHT V2.0 during input shaper. I fixed it with a guy in the voron discord by reflashing both the BTT pico (Can bus transmiter) and canbus board with the bitrate of 1,000,000 and not 500,000. This was the issue, the sampling rate was not fast enought to keep up and it just errored out!
More ppl should know that!
hello, sorry in advance for my bad english I am french, I have a question, would you have a link to buy the two exit guides for the unbilical cord in your video. thanks in advance. :)
Those are "PG7 Cable Glands" like these: amzn.to/3QQvGZL
Not sure if that will help you as it is American Amazon. Here is an AliExpress link: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEbzB7N
I am planning a 2.4 build and right from the start running CAN BUS. Just seems crazy not to spend the extra 40-80 bucks to get it.
4:31 is that 'geometry issue' one of the cuts they make into the part that tricks the slicer into oulining material in areas where it needs to be stronger? I know I've seen that in some other parts, as long as it's manifold!
Comparing the original SB to this mod version, it was a handful of simple geometry mistakes. A slight gap when adding a part here, a missed deletion of unnecessary geometry there. The internal "additional perimeters" on the StealthBurner are about preventing light bleed from the LEDs, not strength. The StealthBurner shroud itself just holds LEDS & fans, it doesn't need to be particularly strong. In fact I print it with less Perimeters & Infill than typical Voron parts to reduce weight.
I wanna know what phone case he has for that iPhone it is amazing!
It is a SmallRig camera cage: www.amazon.com/dp/B09LQZVZ3G/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_KN37S47EAFN5HF13S7GB?linkCode=ml2&tag=hotrodhippie-20
Nice shirt. BTT has a version with a different mcu and uses larger connectors due to the complaints of the micro.
He mentioned it later in the video
@@TheJustinist must have missed that comment when watching. Thanks
Not thought about sensorless homing? Even fewer wires to worry about.
What flex plate coating did you use for the purple parts? poe?
I’m not entirely sure what you are asking. I print on Smooth PEI sheets almost exclusively. Some of those parts may have been printed on a WhamBam PEX sheet but it was too smooth and shiny of a surface for my liking. Does that answer your question?
Sounds like fun building a Voron, but are they that much better than a P1P to justify the price difference?
Nice video, but some tips and tricks i learned on pins and boards: people are not creative enough. You have a touchscreen instead of the 12864 screen, meaning you have at least one pwm pin free for the chamber lighting. Alternatively you have a raspberry pi with many suitable pins and powerful 5v psu for the rgbs. Also you can grab +5v from any 3 pin endstop connector, meaning you can use a rp2040 can board with your 5v fan. 24v and 5v are always available, the only issue comes with 12v fans.
What i am meaning with people are not creative enough is that they see a heater port only as a heater port, although there is no difference between heaters and fans besides the power consumption, meaning you have 10 controllable fans on your Mainboard, 6 of them with selectable voltage. Or unused exp headers. Those can be used for adding 3 drivers or endstops/runout sensors, rgb or even fans if you add mosfets. Same goes for the gpio pins of a raspberry pi (fun fact, you can run an entire, basic printer just with gpio pins). Not enough thermistor ports? There are 3 adc (thermistor) ports on a raspberry pi.
Basically there are only a few types of connections, input pins (on/off/digital or adc/analog) and outputs (communication/signal/pwm and switched power, although you can use any output pin with a mosfet to be a switched power). You have to think by that and many possibilities open up now. For example i have a skr3, which has the same issue like the rp2040 canboard, the jumper selects every fan voltage. Since im also using a ebb36 i can set the fan port voltage to 12v, so i have 3 controllable 12v fan ports. I also have 2 free heater ports, meaning two 24v fans. And i can choose any fan port to be 5v by grabbing plus 5v from any free endstop pin or exp header, regardless if im using a heater or fan port, since all have switched ground
Fair points. I’ve reused various ports for other purposes on other projects. My V0.1 uses a random endstop port or something for 5v for that fan, etc. However I’ve had some ports that just didn’t want to join in on the fun. Think it was that 5V fan where I had trouble getting a port to control it’s on/off. 🤷🏻
I’ll have to give it more thought moving forward. On my projects that trial and error time eats up a lot of time that slows my videos down.
There should be a unit to send a voltage and ground only to a wireless head controller that can power the stepper and hotend, and send back any sensor data. Simple and effective.
I don’t know if any wireless standard I would trust to not have signal loss in a noisy environment like a 3d printer. Printers aren’t very shielded as far as Electro-Magnetic fields are concerned. It can already be an issue for signal integrity in CAN systems, let alone over wireless.
@@MandicReally I think a wireless transmitter could be situated far enough away from the very short run of cabling from the receiver to stepper that a good signal could be established. However it is a pointless argument for me to make until such a product is developed and marketed. I was just putting it out there.
What config changes are neccesary to implement x and y endstop relocation?
Change the X endstop to the pin you attached it to on the Toolhead board. That’s it’s otherwise they are triggering off of the same physical stop points as the original ones, so the location info should be the same.
Please share the stl of the cable guide you used for z motor cables!! I need them! :)
Z Cable guide, what do you mean? The guide for the Z cable chain? That’s a default Voron 2.4 part that’s in the Voron STLs. If you mean the Cable Gland mount for the CAN cable? I did share that on my thangs page: www.thangs.com/mandicreally
@@MandicReally Sorry for my vague explanation hahaha.
I mean the blue mounts at 10:56 that you use to zip tie all of your wiring onto.
Are those the "VHB Cable Management Mount" from your Thangs?
@@xIsouLcruSHca ohhh, yes those are my “VHB cable management” pieces. Just some longer ones that I don’t think I released. I just put out a few options of shorter ones as I figured those were more universally useful. 👍🏻
@@MandicReally Thank you Alan!! They look a lot cleaner than the cable management channel siboor sent me :)
So in general, you don't recommend silicon wiring for cable chains?
It is not recommended in cable chains. The insulation rubs through inside of cable chains very easily.
@@MandicReally Can you share a link to what you recommend using?
Hey fella, I'm finishing up a 2.4 build right now and have been really stressing out over the CAN cable situation. I also have the SB2209, but some folks on the Discord are suggesting that the included cable might not be up to snuff. What are your thoughts now that you've had it installed for a while? Hard to imagine they'd include a cable on a SB kit that can't be used in a heated chamber, but BTT sometimes does funny things. :P
I’ve heard negative things about the cable too but had zero issues. Granted my chamber isn’t actively heated and the highest chamber temps I’ve seen since completion has been about 48C after a while of ASA printing. So may be below any problematic temps, I don’t know. Also mine is sleeved and reinforce with that nylon filament. Not sure if that’s helping or what.
@@MandicReally that's good to hear. I think I'm gonna return / resell the CAN + USB cable I got as it's really overkill, and just go with the BTT one initially. Maybe replace it with something more bulletproof down the road.
Thanks for all you do!
Hey Man!, I have this exact same issue are you happy with this setup?
Which issue are you referring to? I've been quite happy with this setup. I had one CAN Board flake out on me though. It was reading wildly incorrect hotend temps. I swapped the board and was back up and running in 30 minutes (after the part arrived). Otherwise it has been printing beautifully for a couple hundred hours since I made this video and I'm very pleased. It is running off some big parts with a 1mm nozzle right now and just chugging along.
@@MandicReally I've got the leviathan board coming and was going to try canbus for the first time with it but idk....may stick with the chains...I'm just scared of can
Set the max pwm for your 5v fan to be whatever 5/24 is.
Pwm is integral voltage, so it's the same thing as 5v. Just never override it in g code.
I have multiple fans that have been running like this for years and they are all chinesey, so it's not like good copper windings are saving me.
Why they didn't add standard connectors used on the revo voron?
I'd assume because that is just one of dozens of hotend options for this machine. Designing based around a quick connector that only 1 hotend ships with isn't a great idea. The Phaetus Rapido has a similar connector setup but comes with the pigtails to go to the board. I know the Revo does as well.
May I ask for a recommendation on a 350x350x250 minimum build volume printer? Is the voron 2.4 a good printer for the price for this size? Are there others you look into?
With that size constraint, I'd look at the Voron Trident. It is slightly less complex than the 2.4 & potentially can go a little faster since the gantry is fixed & the bed travels up and down. Arguable on that. They run a few dollars cheaper than the 2.4 usually too since they have less motors & a few less pieces overall. The market is expanding and building a Voron is getting harder to justify, but at the size you are talking, it is still the way to go IMO. No one is really making a good value 350mm build volume machine at the moment. Not on the same level as a Voron anyway. The 350mm Trident kits are a little harder to find, but they are around.
@@MandicReally Thank you for the quick reply. I'm still researching. I've built a Railcore 4+ years ago. But I've been out of the loop on what's been happening in the last couple years.
What size of cable sleeving did you use for the can cable? I mean diameter😂
I see the problem you are having with the cooling of the drivers. Your 2.4 is an original BOM/self built one, not from LDO right? The LDO kit has you mount your electronics bay, 90dg different from the original Voron guide. As such the side fans that blow air through the bottom of the bay and directly onto the Otcotopus board and Pi first. You would have seen this with 3d Printing Nerds build, as both of those side fans get full power onto that board. You can see with yours the 2nd fan is just blowing, more like blocked, by the PSU meaning your getting just 1 fans worth of cooling on the 2209's.
Also those fans in the LDO kit were kinda loud at the default 50% speed, slowed mine to 30% and so much quieter.
Is it possible to run only using the Raspberry Pi, Can and Can daughter boards and not have a mainboard?
I assume but what would that achieve? You’d only be driving a toolhead then. What about all the rest of the motors?
Don't those PG7 pigtails reduce the overall Z height?
Silicone wire isn’t the problem. It’s usually due to improper installation and over filling the chain.
I just hope the Mellow gears you bought are not elliptical, like certain batch of them had.
Also those connectors suuuuck. They are specced for 26 AWG max. BTT already received a mouthful from few members of VORON Design team.
Maglev fans are not optimal for CoreXY motion system though - those fluid bearings in there will suffer heavily during fast back and forth motion and will die faster.
You can de-solder the RJ11 and put a Molex Microfit header in there, holes match.
Love the old school Mortal Kombat shirt. 😍🤓
Old Navy of all places had that. Ha. I guess they know their market.
@@MandicReally Old Navy? I’m surprised! Keep up the great content!
Man, Vorons are so cool. Wish it didn’t cost $1000 to build the big one.
why not go with tap ? even beacon ?
Mellow has their own SB2040, which has much better wiring! it uses JST PH2.0 connectors
I ended up switching from the sb2240 to the sb2209 because the tmc2240 kept throwing errors 17:45
Low voltage issues? I never got to run mine but keep seeing folks with that issue though.
@@MandicReallyyeah, it would print for like 20 minutes and then crap out. I’ve had 0 issues with the sb2209 though
@@opinion_panda I feel bad for the folks running into issues with the SB2240 but I'm really glad to see people over the last month or so constantly talking up the SB2209. I got one of those just to be on the safe side.
Obviously BTT is trying hard to keep the newer boards out there but with the unpredictability and high fail rate, they really should recall them until they can stabilize the design. But they won't, of course.