What Is A Voron And Which One Should You Build?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2024
- Do you want to know more? vorondesign.com/
Need more help in choosing? docs.vorondesign.com/hardware...
The Story Of VORON with Maks Zolin (RCF) th-cam.com/users/liveBr5evj71...
Want smol voron? 3dprintersforants.com/
0:00 INTRO
0:38 What IS a Voron?
6:04 Which Voron Should You Build
15:52 SOURCING YOUR BUILD
17:21 Recap and Outro
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TL:DW - Does it qualify for a Voron Serial Number? If no, then not a Voron, simple as that
Which Voron should you build? If thats the only question with no other info, build a TRIDENT
I wish LDO had a 350mm trident kit
Very happy with my Trident. Been pumping a ton of abs/asa and some carbon-nylon as well. I learned so much building and tinkering with it, never regretted my choice. The 0 was a bit too small for my taste, and the 2.4 looked too complex with no clear advantage over the Trident for my beginner brain.
@@dog2bertonly 350? Why not 500, 600, 800, 1000😂
@@simontanguay3619 I think there are more mods that are specific to the V2 over the Trident. Otherwise the two are neck and neck in rating.
Do you have to use ASA or ABS, or is PETG ok if its beefy for most part, obv hotend parts may need to be ASA for heat. But what about the rest?
What is VORON? My opinion, Voron is community, Voron is design, Voron is unique DIY printer build by yourself - only you, Voron is great experience of building and knowledges getting which is priceless!
COTS is the key and what appeals most to me about Vorons.
I totally get what you're saying and you're also right. You don't get a Voron when you're buying a SV08 for example. Sure thing. But. "Ultimaker at home"... where did that come from again? Voron Design didn't claim to have the support or software like an Ultimaker back then. But they provided a similar machine with of the shelf parts. In this case as a non profit organisation, which is absolutely awesome.
But am I the only one who sees the similarity with Voron and SV08/Troodon? They don't claim you get the same benefits as with the original, but you'll get a similar machine. Electronics in the base, easy to put panels on, same firmware etc.. I think a Troodon or SV08 is obviously more a Voron as an Bambu or Ender V3.
I love my Voron printers. And building a Voron was the best idea I had with 3D printing as a hobby. But as long manufactures respect Voron licencing it could be a win for the community. Can't wait to see what people do with SV08. And maybe Voron users can benefit from new mods and extensions like Klipper-AMS every chinese company is coming up with.
Anyways, keep up the great work and have fun at reprep festival!
The "ultimaker at home" is from the design goal of the original voron.
An ultimate 2 tier of printer. But you can self source and build yourself
I personally believe the better label to apply is: "(Commercialised) Voron Derivative". It may be wordy, but it is probably the most succinct yet accurate way to summarise what machines like the the Vivedino Troodon, the Sovol SV-08, and arguably even machines like BambuLabs P1/X1, Creality K-series are.
I would call them Voron inspired.
Voron Clone
@@NathanBuildsRobots If the core thing that makes a Voron is COTS then they're not that either.
@@jmelchiori85your personal conception is valid, but not global.
Clones are technically defined as a 1:1 copy, but functionally are commonly modified to improve or change functionality.
Can't clone a dude with cancer without removing the genetic predisposition to cancer and stay in business, feel me?
I just wanted to talk about my opinion, not trying to change yours! Peace
You forgot to mention kits and sales who claim to be directly endorsed or supporting Voron
I'd like more info in video format for what the pros and cons of the main Voron family.
Answers to things like "Why is a Trident easier to build?"
Really just a video or series of videos hightlighting the best use cases for each type of Voron would be great.
Picked up my Troodon 2.0 Pro recently and am loving it. Its not a "Voron" and people who claim it is are ignorant, but I loved that it only took around 3 hours to setup and saved me a lot of time crimping, running wires and with the general assembly process. Leagues above any other "pre-assembled" machines from other companies, voron inspired or not, thanks to the excellent base design. Will you get something better ordering the BOM yourself and assembling it yourself? Most likely, something about that attachment of fully assembling it as well.
It's close enough for me to be compatible with the things I need, personally I kind of prefer the metal components over the printed ones anyways but I understand this goes again the voron design philosophy, yet I still think they have a place.
Currently they claim its "Voron" inspired not a "Voron" and do credit the design team heavily on the page. Would be nice if they contributed a bit back to the project even if it was just something like 2$
May look into building the 0.2 at some point just to have a more portable printer for ABS.
I'm really looking forward to getting mine and doing some cool cosmetic upgrades to it 👌
I built a Voron Trident 300 kit from LDO. It's my goto printer now, 100% reliable and perfect print quality. Only mod I did was installing the Nighthawk wiring for the toolhead (highly recommend).
I also have a Bambu X1C (I printed the Voron parts on this) and a Prusa MK3S+.
Thinking about selling the Bambu and Prusa. I only need a hardened steel nozzle for the Trident to print Nylon-CF.
Great Video! I usually dont comment but this genuenly helped out so much!
I just purchased a K1C based on your streams. Now that I can print ABS I have been trying to decided what to make but I think I have settled on an Enderwire since my old modded Pro has given me a few issues. Any suggested resources or videos to help me along?
I just finished my first voron build and it was converting a FLsun cube to a voron legacy with the build volume of 310x310x415. i had to using one set of mods to allow for the use of short linear bearings be used from the FLsun but side that every thing else if legacy. A few thing i found with doing the voron legacy is finding the right hardware locally or screw kit online with descent shipping cost. also that there no manual for the printer it self but the tool head lucky dose so, u need to work from the cad file when doing the printer frame and core xy which is no big deal just have to stop and think on which is right step to go sometime. only big thing i could say about the hole printer build is that when putting the X Y carriage they call for a M5x30 button head for the rear most idler and if you screw it all the ya down it blocks the linear rod from passing through and socket head the same. i end up using a M5x45 just a pin to hold the idler in place and it seem to be working so far. the voron legacy seem to be a good option for someone that doesn't want to print abs but still want to try out the coreXY printers. Plus for the cost to do a voron legacy isnt bad at all compared to the other in the voron family to get ur feet wet only kicker is the self sourcing but if you can get lucky and find a donor printer that similar part to a legacy you can get in to a voron for very cheap thankfully.
Coming from a Ender 3 Pro (first printer) a build a 2.4 300 and I love it it was a fun build and you build it as the way you like... I sold my ender 3 after building my V2.4 and now after couple of month I am looking for a second printer, I was looking at the switchwire but after see this video I think I am going to be looking for the V0.2
This video was very well timed. I am about to want to build a DIY printer, and was going to do a Voron 0.2 kit. Reason being I currently have a Bambu P1S and an Ender 3 S1, so this Voron was going to be dipping my toes before something like a Ratrig or a 2.4/Trident.
So, as a secondary printer to replace my Ender, should I still look at something other than the 0.2?
I would probably build a Trident. The v0 isn't too hard if you watch a lot of build videos, study the manual, and do tons of preparation.
The V0 advice is very good. I have found the same experience with my v0. Lots of fun to build, and an excellent secondary printer. I would not want it to be my only printer.
I built a V0 as my first and so far only printer. It was super fun to build but I also have access to a bigger printer at work. So if you have access to another printer somehow and lack the space for a bigger printer at home, I can really recommend the V0 as the first/only printer.
One day I will have the little one print the parts for a V2 or Trident
@@metalhammerish- I purchased a V0.1 kit from LDO well over a year ago and it unfortunately is still in its shipping box. If you don’t mind, I have a couple of questions - Did you build your’s stock? Is it still the stock printer you built, or have you since tweaked it? Finally, do you still use it often?
@@joell439 I built mine from a 0.2r2 LDO kit. It was stock at first but I have started modding it. The only mod I think is necessary is some kind of carbon filter if you print ABS/ASA in a poorly ventilated room. I use the nevermore micro V6 which is printable on the V0.
How much you use it really depends on you, I don't use mine too often, but that's because I mostly print functional parts I designed myself rather than some trinkets I found online and I don't have enough time to do the CAD for all the things I want to have.
I love this little machine. It's pretty fast, even in stock configuration, reliable once you understand the limitations of FDM printers (all failed prints I had were my own fault) and really pleasing to watch.
If a project exceeds the build volume of it I first think about ways to do them on this machine instead of printing it somewhere else.
But it does take some time to build and configure everything to run properly. Especially if you haven't done it before, but in my opinion it's well worth it
Thank you for the info. Great as always. I would love to see a video on taking a SV08 and making it into a Voron.
Take svo8. Throw it out. Build voron
Other than like. Motors and electronics. Nothing is compatible between the two without heavy modding
my LDO Voron is basically stock, i just replaced all axial fans with Noctua ones to be more quiet, and i replaced the omron probe with klicky ASAP.
now, about a week after its finished i started preparing magnetic hinge doors to take off and quick release bottom panel clips. might make quick release klips for more panels, not sure yet.
I'm on a quest to see what info on the Phoenix came out of RMRRF and came across this video. I'm a little worried, from what I saw from last year that the Phoenix won't meet your definition of a Voron. To me, self sourcing and research is part of the fun so I'm hoping there is still a chance I will be able to with a Phoenix.
IMO voron represents the ability to find replacement parts anywhere along with understanding of the machine which means you can fix/mod it at will. This is the exact reason why I choose voron over bambu.
It is not like you can't pay others to build a voron for you but that defeats the benefit of a voron in my opinion
What shelf are you using for your printers? I'm still looking for a good sturdy shelf for my two 2.4s
The one behind me in the video? Can't remember the exact model but iirc it's a husky branded one from home depoy
Also want to know why the rat rig is better for over 350mm2 size? Does the rat rig have beefier extrusions?
The builder on voron will give you a material list if you do custom size. Does the larger format become too flimsy? And how does that go against the likes of elegoo OS giga? That has super thin extrusions for the size.
Curious as I’d like to do a printer that is 450x300 but on livestream and here it recommended to go to rat rig….
Ratrig uses 3030 extrusions instead of 2020, so much stiffer for the frame. Doesn't matter that much at smaller sizes but becomes increasingly important at larger sizes where vibrations can limit your max acceleration (even with input shaping)
Yes, Ratrig uses 3030 and other beefy components.
Is there a timeline for the release of the Phoenix? Or an idea of when you are going to do a video about it? I really want to build one.
Whenever that gets asked, the answer from the Voron design team is "When It's Done (tm)". So timelines are anyone's guess until it's pretty much ready to drop
@@haddonist I guess I will just have to be patient. Not one of my strengths. Thanks for the heads up
The cost of the LDO kit is the same as a x1c which would you recommend?
I'm currently sourcing a lot of parts that base an upgrade from different Voron iterations and mods;
It's a Solidoodle 3.
Making it CoreXY with Legacy X-carriage, XoL toolhead Trident Belted Z mod on the bed and finally trident skirts. 😁
I will be at RMRRF, see you there!
What in my opinion is the defining feature of a Voron, or of the other DIY printers, is that you build it by yourself, so you have that intimacy with the machine that allows you to understand more easily what's going on when something is not right. Even if someone builds you a Voron it's not the same thing, even worse if you buy one in a box and the parts are all custom and you don't even have the benefit of the community knowing that machine.
How hard is it to get IDEX working on a Trident? I really want to try mixing flexible filament in for seals and joints. Purging towers seem... not great.
There are several ways to get a tridex. Either full self source or starting with kits or pre built machines. Although if you use a kit as a basis you will end up with spare parts. You essentially need to widen the printer by 100mm and add a second toolhead. You also use nema14 motors instead of nema17 due to space.
If i were to build one, id either go one of two routes: get a used one as a donor printer or start with a more budget oriented printer, most likely a magic phoenix kit because it comes with canbus from factory, which you will more or less need. Otherwise use a formbot as basis if you cant get a mpx kit. 250mm kit sizes are the preferred ones. Then either buy the missing wider extrusions individually or get a 350mm frame kit if you can do something with the leftover parts. Then buy parts for a second stealthburner, 4 nema14 52mm motors, additional belts and pulley, the longer x rail and maybe a second carriage from the same brand. Panels must be ordered regardless of what you use as basis.
One last thing, a tridex is to my knowledge not capable of mirror and copy mode, not due to software, but due to hardware. The toolheads cant be leveled relative to each other, at least that was the case when i last looked
Can attest that Formbot kits are pretty good. Started with their stock 300 mm Trident. Now, my machine has a couple more mods, so not stock anymore. But it was a good starting point at an attractive price.
Question, serious one: I have large frame build for HEvo, long time ago, collecting dust and inducing remorse. 3030 profiles, 510x510x700mm
And pile of other components.
Any ideas how to remanufacture it into V2 with minimal cost? I saved a bit and would like to try....
3030 puts you in Ratrig territory, a little beefier than Voron (and better for larger formats). You may see if someone has modified into one of those.
I love my 0.1 with tweaks, thinking maybe a ratrig v core 4 next if there's no updated trident in the next few months to replace my first printer which is a few year old big bedslinger with klipper and mods.
I was looking to buy a Bambu A1 mini a few days ago watched some reviews and now I'm here
Is there any other Denver then the one in Colorado?
I am building a V0 everything went fine until I tried using a beefy Hotend and a different print head… now I will make the mini stealth burner…
Could you provide more info please? I've been considering the dragon burner for more cooling when printing PLA
Built 2 formbot kits, anything wrong with them, formbot sent replacements asap, and even gave me a kit upgrade when they upgraded their v0 kits 1 week after i bought mine
In theory, you can eliminate the keyback on the switchwire in software. If you keep the X and Z steppers powered up, the gantry isn't going to fall. The catch, would be to auto home the Z axis as part of a power down function in software. In the event of a power failure, there might be enough friction generated by motor back emf to gently lower the gantry without damage to the print head if it didn't "fall" from the very top of the Z axis. The switch back does add some drag to the Z axis on the way down, and reduces drag on the way up, which might have some effects on printing as the motors might need a bit more power in one direction vs the other. One would only see this during Z hopping though.
I'm almost finished with my Enderwire build. Still need to fine tune things after a last minute hot end swap (gave up on the Taichi after it kept clogging, and now have an E3D Revo Voron. Only one extruder now, but I might build an ERCF in the future). Also need to assemble the enclosure and build a Nevermore.
What about if you just use a 1:2 belt loop in place of AB (XZ) drives? will that help?
I ordered all the parts for an Enderwire recently, except the keyback. I never really knew what it was for, so I skipped it. Is it a must have? I mean, if I just remember to power down the machine and gently let it rest against the bed, is that OK? Will the motors struggle to maintain position with the help of that little doodad?
I built a switchvyper (anycubic vyper converted to switchwire just like the enderwire project) you definitely should have the key back. Without it, the gantry will fall. Not terribly fast but the weight will cause it to sag and drop on its own. The specified key back gives just enough resistance to hold on its own but even just a tiny bit of additional pressure on the gantry will cause it to drop of motors are off
@@jettachamp26 It probably depends on how heavy the tool head is. I'm using a bowden extruder on mine at the moment, that's a bit lighter than the clockwork2 extruder. I do have the specified keyback on mine. I wonder how the V2 with the belt driven floating gantry keeps from falling with the motors off.
@@KennethScharf I have two v2s. A 350 and a 250. Both have minimal sag (mostly just the back where the motors are) but does not fall easily when motors off. You have to push a decent amount
the one for me that i still don't quite get is the siboor EU only, fully assembled , fully printed, V2.4. they're not doing the "if you cant build one you can buy one" but they are selling a fully assembled V2.4, does that count, how would people doing serials know that's not a hand built (by the user) Voron?
Where can I find this siboor v2.4?
@@landerhoolsteens if you want it you can go find it on their website, but I wont be providing links etc
@@Mobile_Dom oh i just asked cause i didnt find it on their website and thought its not a real thing but il look again
@@landerhoolsteens i just checked on their website, it appears it no longer for sale (for better or for worse)
There ist a new Trident coming within the next 2 weeks !
What is the mod for the switchwire that removes the fastback?
Legacy might be a good target for converting an Ender 5 into.
Self sourcing makes sense IF you have a lot of dead printers in the junque box. In my case, I started with a basket case Ender 3 Pro off Ebay ('un-repaired' printer.) There are a LOT of these for sale at around $70.
Murcury One would be a better conversion for an E5/E5+ since that is what they are all about.
Would love to see an updated ERCF video
I've been wanting to build a Voron for some time now, but I'm still not entirely sure which one I want to build. I got my first 3D printer early last year, a Bambu Lab P1S (I know it goes against everything that Voron stands for but I wanted a good out of the box experience) I figured that since I already have a Core X Y printer being my P1S, I would be a good idea to build a 2.4, or even a 0. Would either of these be the right call? Printing is just a hobby for me, I do not make any money off of it I do it purely for the enjoyment of making random stuff.
I would recommend a v2.4 to try something different. The p1s is very similar to a trident (but I believe only 1 z motor instead of three). I personally prefer the lower center of gravity and stationary bed, especially for large things.
Plus, quad gantry level go brrrrr
I'd honestly say if you don't need a same/bigger printer than your P1S, the V0 would be a good printer for when you want to print something small and don't want to heat up a larger bed. There are a TON of variants to look at, however.
Literally had just finished the video and an ad for the SV08 started playing.
Can you do a detailed video on TMC drivers for Klipper? There are some settings I dont understand, and can't really find any explanation of what they do.
These are some available options for TMC2209, but I dont understand exactly what they do:
#driver_MULTISTEP_FILT: True
#driver_IHOLDDELAY: 8
#driver_TPOWERDOWN: 20
#driver_TBL: 2
#driver_TOFF: 3
#driver_HEND: 0
#driver_HSTRT: 5
#driver_PWM_AUTOGRAD: True
#driver_PWM_AUTOSCALE: True
#driver_PWM_LIM: 12
#driver_PWM_REG: 8
#driver_PWM_FREQ: 1
#driver_PWM_GRAD: 14
#driver_PWM_OFS: 36
Bro the ad at the start of this video was for an sv08 !lol
The hello hello hello at the start drove me insane because I knew I heard it somewhere
And now I remembered, it's Walter Lewin signature videos opening (personal videos, the physics teacher)
I've build a V2.4 at 350x350 and later a V0.2 as the "back-up".
I'll take the V0 over the V2 every time, unless the parts don't fit.
Can you do a detailed TMC driver tuning video for Klipper? There are all these settings that I dont understand what they do, so a detailed tuning guide would be helpful.
Here are the settings I am talking about:
#driver_MULTISTEP_FILT: True
#driver_IHOLDDELAY: 8
#driver_TPOWERDOWN: 20
#driver_TBL: 2
#driver_TOFF: 3
#driver_HEND: 0
#driver_HSTRT: 5
#driver_PWM_AUTOGRAD: True
#driver_PWM_AUTOSCALE: True
#driver_PWM_LIM: 12
#driver_PWM_REG: 8
#driver_PWM_FREQ: 1
#driver_PWM_GRAD: 14
#driver_PWM_OFS: 36
to me voron is one of the few alternatives where you are nearly in complete control over your printer.
voron is quality no chinese printer offers. (yes bambu lab is a thing, but out of the box your privacy isn't valued, yes prusa is a thing despite not beign chinese, but the price tags are horrendous compared to voron)
Preach Nero
Hello. I build to time a Voron 2.4. Specil: With WP-DAKSH Toolchanger (5 Hotends). I have the Manta M8P with C2 and the BTT-MOT Expansion Board = 11 Places for TMC. The Voron must in many Destail optimized - but i have good ideas. - See you later. Greating - Ingo from France (german man)
You should add a video highlighting community favorite mods.
All of them. Build all of them.
Tastefully done.
I dreamed of a Voron, but the kits were far too overpriced for me... But now I've ordered a Sovol SO08... it's not a Voron, but it drives a bit like one :-)
See you at fest sir, excited to say hello.
Ill be honest, I am not fond of this video, because I feel like a LOT of your points, are contradicted by the upcoming voron pheonix. Now I understand it is a new breed of voron, but by your definision, it's not a voron, right ?
also, regarding the links to kits, there are plenty of links to kits in the bom, from "trusted" suppliers
otherwise, I really appreciate the fact that you made a video guide about the different voron and how to choose, it will definitely help a lot of people. I remember when I was looking for my first voron, I had a hard time finding review and comparison videos
Your right in regards to phoenix.... Somewhat... It's not released yet and more info to follow
@@CanuckCreator can't wait to hear more about it! In the meantime, enjoy the RMRRF!
I don't see any links in the BOMs. I see some in the sourcing guides, but they are for individual pieces, not kits. I'm confused about what you're talking about.
@@nitroburner77 at the end of the v0 sourcing guide, which is the same as the BOM to me, there are links to kits
@@Sttreg thanks I see it. 4 links to the 4 most common suppliers of V0 kits but none for any of the others. I don't see them endorsing the quality of any of them other than noting the vendors are trusted.
That is one of the best aspects of a Voron is the off the shelf parts. And the ability pick and choose exactly what you want. I built a 2.4r2 and love it, I kinda wish I would have built a Trident. That is next on the list.
Lets face it, All these commercial printers straight up copied the Voron designs. Just goes to show how good the engineering is on the Voron Designs.
See you at Rocky Mountain Taylor.
Printers for Ants ARE Vorons. They can be assembled using (most) of the official Voron manuals. If Voron's auto BOM compiler on their web site allowed for changing the bed size of a V0 , V2, or Trident to the PFA range, or swap between 1515 and 2020 extrusions, the result would be the same. Have any builders made non-square bed sizes for Tridents or V2's? Something like 250x300 for example (Makerbot foot print)?
I like the idea of ready to rock and roll off the shelf Vonor-ish printers. At least so long as they are Open Source, and the mechanics allow for user swaps of hot ends, including mounting Voron design tool heads (stealth burner) and other mods. Don't call them Vorons, but do mention where some of your 'DNA' came from!
Most of the printers for ants do fall under "it's a voron". As they are basically remixes of the base designs using different components but still following the same design ethos.
the Voron 2.4 Bed is custom machines plate..
tronxy x5sa to voron legacy works fore me
So much drama as of late. And now we will get to see the echo chamber effect online. Lol
So a Voron Phoenix isn’t a Voron? 😅
18:05 no!!! we need more Phoenix talk !! 😅
SV08 = Voron now apparently. lol
Nah
How ironic that the printers that are the most made out of COTS are actually among the least COTS printer by themselves.
If only the D cut shafts were as COTS as the other components. I got everything else but For some damn reason they are hard to find in Pakistan, can only get them machined if you pay a fortune. I am using M5 screws in place of them xd.
if the Voron is on the floor is it technically considered a Flooron?
Me sitting with a formbot V0 kit as the first Voron: “oh dear”
I mean that’s petty much a voron, but it’s a name either way I heard they make great kits
it's not any more complicated than a regular Trident. It's just smaller, so getting all the nuts in the extrusions when appropriate is the biggest thing you should concentrate on. If you forget some, you'll be doing some disassembly. Other than that, it's a mini Trident with a single z motor. You'll be fine.
Voron needs an SLS.
Voron-ish? Voron-oid? 😀
It’s just many other names that became genericized. Like skilsaw or airfryer or googling buts that’s more of a verb. There hundreds of examples “on Wikipedia under “List of former trademarks that have been genericized”.
In a way it is cool but as people are acknowledging how good voron are but at same time it’s detracting from the approach/ ethos etc. and risk is that the voron will be overridden by the “wannabes”…
how dare you?! voice by greta thunberg is now in your head & was provided to you free of charge by yours truly! now back to topic, i’m willing to sacrifice my future printers not being genuine voron’s because my first 2.4 was built before pre assembled kits existed & the fact that i had to wait a few days just because i didn’t have a specific m3x8 nut or one bearing will end up happening to ya. if you haven’t built one yet its not wise anymore to self source specially if you want to keep your sanity. however, there’s still a little sense of proudness & accomplishment once you fire it up and the gantry takes its first “step”
Take a shot each time Nero says not a voron.
K
...so it's not like Glocks... where you have Glocks and you have Glock brand Glocks?... or Enders and Ender brand Enders?
Voron "inspired" printers are still not Vorons.
Having talked with the managers at Sovol. They do not intend to call the SV08 a Voron. Only credit the project for inspiration. And continue to support the project as it goes ahead.
Sovol themselves haven't called it a voron which is fair and true. But they also use Voron heavily in their marketing and others including other reviews have called it a Voron
1:38 for the childish germans
Racecar! I would describe my Voron, and a lot of other DIY printers as such. These are build up machines. Fast, questionable reliability (if you get a bad kit like me) until you driven it so much everything that could break already did and got upgraded into an amazing machine.
These other printers "Claiming" to be Vorons are just the sport level trims you drive ready of the lot. Its not the same as project car.
show me one instance where Sovol said this IS a voron, I'll wait.
Ok. Custom components.
Yet for some people that is not so important, for some people it is even better to have injected parts and custom made metal parts, electronic boards. Because those are less expensive and more durable and better integrated.
We may say that it is nice to have some parts that are standard, like electronics and maybe extruders while some other parts like frame and joints would be nice to be custom made. YMMV
Nice video as usual, thanks.
Let me lead by noting that I don't really have a dog in the "is an SV08 or a Trodon a Voron" race, and I figure your definition here seems pretty reasonable. But this video has still managed to irritate me.
On reflection, it's because of your continual use of the phrase " *can't* build a Voron." I'm working on a full-size R5-D4 as I listen to these videos, and I'm a librarian so I'm good at reading and interpreting directions. I'm pretty sure I *can* build a Voron; probably not as fast as some folks, but I'd get there in the end. But I also know I really, really, don't *want* to build a Voron. The entire idea sounds just tiresome and frustrating to me.
The "Old Guard" in the 3D printing community is almost all folks who did build a printer, or at least mostly built a printer if they had something like an Ender that they got working. Those of us who aren't interested in building a printer and fall into the "It just works" half of the hobby haven't been here as long, because until a couple years ago, there weren't really any machines that were close enough to a "just push go" printer to support us. But now there are.
The result is a huge surge in interest from folks who are into 3d printing but not 3d printers, and in a lot of places on the internet that has led to significant pushback from the people who did build a printer. There's this attitude that one shouldn't have a 3d printer if one didn't build it oneself.
Your choice of phrases strongly suggests that the only reason one doesn't build a Voron is because one is incapable of doing so.
I hope you can see how those two things align, to make it feel like you're suggesting I'm not good enough to be here because I'm not interested in building a Voron. I'm 100% certain that's not what you intended - but what we *intend* to say and what we *actually* say are often not the same thing. Anyway, I'm not trying to make a big deal out of this. I've seen many of your other videos where you're extremely open to people like myself who are happy with our Bambu Labs machines and don't feel like building a printer. I guess that's why I'm bringing this up - you're generally someone who's welcoming to most and aware of the subsets of the 3d printing hobby, and knowing that you came across differently in this video is, I hope, useful feedback.
In any case, I do agree - an esential part of what makes something a Voron is the building experience. If you want the performance and aren't into building, go buy an X1C or Ulitmaker or what have you, but be open about what it is you've got and what it is not, and leave the Voron "title" for the folks who are really into building printers themselves.
About to have my wife cut a big ass "VORON" decal for my deltas...LOL
I recall I printed the parts for my first mini Kossel, than ASAP I bought custom parts in metal, carbon and injected as upgrades 👨🔧
I smelled genericide
gatekeeping
Dont think you know what ethos means😂
A Voron is a printer that identifies as a Voron.
A Voron is an overhyped printer not really worth your time, not in 2024
K