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I think the layer seperation issue is coming from the steel itself. Steel is a good thermal conductor and I think when you place the steel in the part its cooling down the layers that are placed on top of it plus the part itself. I would try heating the steel up to like 70 or 80c and then placing the metal in the printed part.
I didn't mention it but I actually set the steel on the bed (110C) for as long as I could before embedding it. It was hot enough that I couldn't hold it for long when I was setting it into the print and I have asbestos hands. Still could be a factor of course. Just wasn't an issue on my Voron either attempt at the part, but was both times on the Bambu. It was odd.
I had similar problems printing ASA on large parts in my Bambu X1C. It kept separating due to probably thermal issues. I ended up solving the problem by just printing the part in PETG and everything worked fine. Hope this helps.
Every time I watch a video of yours I can't help but be impressed with the production quality you put in to it. The video looks great, the story/info regarding the project is done in a way that is enjoyable to watch, and the audio, I could just listen to you explain just about anything. You've shown many times just how 3D printing the things you need can help you accomplish the goals you've set out to achieve.
Thank you very much. You basically just outlined exactly what I set out to do, so you pretty much just made my day with this comment. I was up until 2AM last night getting this wrapped up so that means a lot to know the work pays off in how it is received.
You're an actual wizard. This video turned up randomly on my feed and I was anticipating some decent 3D printing content but the way you've blended the 3D printing and your very clear traditional manufacturing skills, like printing the steel weights into the brackets, is actually incredible, and the video was produced really well with great pacing and blend of deep explanation and time-lapse. Instant subscribe from me.
Thank you so much for the kind and thoroughly explained comment. I really appreciate hearing this. Sometimes as a creator we don't know if the things we are making are being received how we really want, and comments like this are a real boost to morale. Welcome to the channel and I hope I continue to make more fun and engaging content for your to consume!
Spray the steel with a heavy coat (let it pool up a little) of aqua net after you place the in print the while the printer is paused. This does two things for you, since there is wet hairspray on top of steel you have to wait for it to evaporate and allow time for the steal to warm up. Second is it give something for the filament to stick to.
The steel was pre-heated on the print bed for a while before laying into the print (just didn't mention it in the video). And the design fully bridges OVER the steel, it does not contact. I've done this before, trying to print on the steel is a bad time. It just won't be at temp enough, flat enough, or at the proper layer height to function like a print bed.
@@theglowcloud2215 no, not at all. I love my bambu x1c. It's called making a light hearted joke based on the fact that bambu was the first mass market 3d printer that has a poop chute. I'm not and never have been one of the people who have been massively negative about everything bambu makes.
I think the steel is absorbing heat and causing rapid cooling. Just saw your comment about preheating the metal, however I still think its the issue. Also, thanks foe the video, way too many 2d printing channels are not doing enough videos on practical uses of the printers. After years od doing 3d printing, I just learned something new from you today.
Thank you very much. My goal with the channel is to move away from the tech heavy side of printing and just show how cool AND practical 3D Printing can be. So I'm glad it is coming across.
@MandicReally surprised you got through all the typos. Shouldn't do this without my glasses. Just a bit of feedback, back during the early days of 3d printing youtube, lots of creators presented cool projects on the uses of 3d printers. Now it seems so many creaters are dedicated to brands on optimizing specific printers or focusing excessively on hardware reviews and livestreams lasting more than an hour, these don't make for good quick watching while having breakfast. Practical print friday does lots of varied projects, but nice to see you too doing these projects. The hardware is not that exciting to watch anymore, and unless I am looking to buy a new printer, there are only so many reviews I can watch. However, project ideas, innovations in printing techniques etc... are more timeless as content
Hi Allen, A great tip for inserting steel parts into a print is to preheat the the steel before inserting it into the plastic.. I have done this by simply putting the steel part on the build plate while the rest of the part is printing, as long as the toolhead isn't going to hit it... or using another printer to to preheat the steel (or aluminum part). Another great video 🙂👍
Thanks for the input, I did in fact do that though. I just didn't reference it in the video. My confusion really lies in why the Bambu had so much trouble where the Voron did not. The best input I've gotten is that the lighter duty bed mechanism of the Bambu may have lowered a little under the weight of the steel being added. Maybe just enough to cause the issue I saw.
I think a few people have already said this. But it may be a good idea too heat up the steel before putting it in the print. You may want to increase the hot end temp to the top end the filliment can take.
Maybe use a thermal sleeve around the steel. Use a radiator insulator to r something similar, this should give it enough time to print the next layer before the heat transfers.
Possibly the steel might be weighing the bed down just enough to provide a weak Layer once y oh placed it. I feel having a more rigid plate may help but idk. Just a thought.
Hi ,yeah I agree with some of the comments when I saw the steel and you bridging over it I was like no way thats goona stick, yes heating up the steel would work but finding the right temp to keep the steel warm and NOT melt the plastic is not goijng to be easy, I would suggest "Painters tape" on top of the steel and then you do normal layers, this way you dont have to worry about the nozzle and the plastic has something to stick to,.
Which "Little brackets" are you referring to? I'm not a professional so my CAD workflows are usually... messy, which is why I usually just share STEP files from my designs and not the Fusion project files, but I'm open to doing so.
I think that the main reason there was a layer separation on the bambulab is the chamber temp. Putting a cold piece of steel inside of a print might be the issue. The voron can compensate the loss of heat pretty fast having mains bed and a much beefier bed
The X1 bed is also Mains voltage. Though it certainly isn’t as beefy or thermal mass heavy as the Voron bed. I preheated the steel by laying it on the bed of both machines (the Bambu bed was hotter at 110C vs 105C on the Voron). And the chamber temp on the Bambu is generally 5-10C hotter than my Voron as the 2.4 has a larger chamber volume and the bed is at the bottom where it is coolest in the chamber.
x1c seperation could be the steel plate sagging the bed once added in. Seems to make the most sense. Could try some way of weighing down the bed using the steel plate for the first part of the print, but likely this is a horrid challenge as theres no way you could load that exact spot on the bed
I see that, but I did rest the plate on the bed for a while before laying it into the print. I did that to preheat it so it wasn't cold when inserting it. This still is a pretty logical possibility as to why the Bambu had issue when the Voron didn't. I may have to investigate that more. Thanks.
The title should be:How to get cat and mouse live happily together with 3d printing. As you already figured out cats are an instant receipt for more TH-cam impact.
Just a bit of advice from a mail carrier, The mail could do better sitting vertical than horizontal as you have it, Also makes it easier to create dividers
@@deeply999 You did notice the cabinet is completely separated from everything else right? its an enclosed chamber with a HEPA filter that nothing else shares the space with. There is a divider at the top that completely isolates it from the drawers and shelves above.
Cool project. Since the Bambu one was separating once you put the steel in…. Do you think the weight of the steal may have caused some backlash causing it to be a little lower than intended for the next layer?
BambuLab's fail because of steel vs Lidar. And I have reservations about the brackets because 3D printing is not the suitable material for the job, even with metal reinforcement. It's a matter of looks versus relevance. Joining aluminum extrusions together, which is their intended purpose, is likely too simple with basic screws.
I fully see and expected that, but the steel was preheated on the bed before laying into the print. I was barely able to handle it for a few seconds. Definitely not 240C, but not cold by any means and thoroughly heated. Had it happened on both machines I'd 100% chock it up to the thermal mass issue, but the Voron had no issues with adhesion either time. Idk.
I know i am late to the party. But maybe try some painters tape on top of the steel? Or capton tape? I saw comments about you heating up and i see you did so maybe tape would have allowed you to print directly onto the steel? Just a thought. Cheers
Have you compared the chamber temps between the X1C and your 2.4? Was opening the doors to add the preheated steel allowing enough heat to escape and the bambu couldnt keep up?
The Bambu maintains a higher chamber temp cosnistently. It is usually between 50-52C while the Voron is generally 40-45C at Gantry height and less than 40C at the bottom. The Voron isn't insulated at all and has a much larger internal volume to heat. I print ABS and ASA almost exclusively on the Bambu and have never had a momentary temp dip in the chamber cause any issues. Not a bad thought process, just not sure it plays out in reality.
3/8" steel seems overkill, and those reinforcement pieces seem unnecessary. Overall, your mounts take up a considerable amount of desktop, considering their function. FWIW, check out how uprights mount onto Uline's packing tables.
Which ones are you interested in? The ones that the steel embeds into would require someone to buy the steel as well. As such I wouldn't generally release something like that. I don't like making people HAVE to go buy something (aside from typical & widely available hardware) for my designs.
@@MandicReally Those were the ones I was thinking on as I never thought on using extrusion on a desk before like this. It seems a great idea. (BTW I would really love your Mercury 1.1 designs, they are awesome)
@@TechieNI I'll see about making some time to prep them for release. Shouldn't be far from ready to go. The Mercury One files need a little time to organize and get ready, and I just haven't had that time lately. Hopefully a day this week. I had hoped to have them ready this weekend but this project ran over. They will be released at some point soon.
I wonder if some of the issue you have on the bambu especially is because you put cold steel in the middle of the part, and would be less of an issue if you would have heated them up closer to the chamber temp before inserting them into the print
I preheated the steel by setting it on the 110c bed for as long as I could before setting it into the print. Just didn’t mention it in the video cause I covered that in my last go around with this subject. Still may have been enough temperature difference to cause a problem.
I feel the "I dont have time to upgrade cuz busy" issue, but the way I look at it a failed 13hour print could've been prevented by an hour or 2 upgrading is a task well worth doing. Future you will thank past you. That said.... I haven't done input shaping or filament runout sensor yet.. so... grain of salt. 😂
Thank you very much. I'm so happy with how much this organized and cleaned things up (so is Ruby... especially Ruby). The Poo Portal files are linked in the description if you have any use for them (or even if you don't, downloads help out, ha). Thanks for watching.
I'd assume that the inserted steel absorbs all the heat and thus you get the layer separation right above it, as the layer before got cooled off too much. When i do something like this, i put the parts inside the chamber, so the temperature difference is not as big
I did set the steel on the bed for a while before laying it into the prints. So it was not just in the chamber but also absorbing bed heat (110C). It is still cooler than extrusion temps of course so it could still be a factor, but the Voron had NO issue while the Bambu had nothing but issue with it. And the Bambu I run the bed hotter and the chamber is warmer.
@@MandicReallyThat would be funny! I didn't get into 3d printing while we had cats, but watching your video made me realize how much fun I'd have making hepa/carbon filter system for the litter area, or other quality of life hacks around the cats.
@@JohnOlson yea I intended to do a whole video on the subject and design a filtration system. Then I realized one of my spare house filters fit inside of that cabinet with the box and it just didn't make sense, ha.
I suspect the layer separation on the Bambu was because the weight of the steel bar will ruin the precision that the bambu has with its rapid z hop it does. Not really sure the actual term but every time it ends on a seam it might be lowering the bed and raising it again very very quickly, but obviously a heavy steel bar would mess with that. That said, i dont really know what im talking about ive had my X1C for less than a month XDDDD. Hopefully you get what i mean.
Unrelated, but you may want to look at the nozzle of your v2.4. The artifacts on your v2.4, i had these and couldnt get rid of them, I've spent so much time before realizing it came from the nozzle being worn down, and it looks lime yours is starting to do the same
@mandicreally - can you post the STL or STEP files for your 40 40 extrusion mounting/connecting? I’m planning to do a similar setup on my home office standing desk, and have been looking for those exact solutions. I’d happy to pay for them if you post them on Thangs/Printables etc. Thanks in advance!
Thank you very much. I design in Autodesk Fusion 360. I got started on the free hobbyist tier and moved to the commercial licensing as my business grew around it.
Server rack has always been in the corner of the studio, I just finally cleaned things up enough with the new setup that I can film at an angle that highlights it. It houses a couple of servers for my house / video work and will likely be the focus of a video at some point here. Nothing major planned at the moment. Got ideas? ha
I use a couple. A Deity S-Mic 2 when I'm at the desk in the main studio shot. A Deity S-Mic 2s when I'm elsewhere in the studio or house (Deity's version of your MKH50). And a Beacon USB Mic for voiceover at the desk. There are subtle differences between them but they all mix decently. I'd say the bulk of it is that I've sound treated my studio pretty well (the intro in the shipping area shows how back reverb can be). And I've learned to edit my audio for the mics I have. Not necessarily that they are the most amazing mics, but I've learned exactly how to get them to sound how I want with my particular voice. Which took some trial and error but I got their eventually. I'd highly recommend Mike Russel on here for some audio editing info: www.youtube.com/@MikeRussell
I don't have a bambu printer so I'm not certain, but could the print issues with the steel be because the steel is weighing the bed down? Those look like some pretty heavy chunks, and even a 0.1mm deflection could stop the next layers from sticking properly.
@@MandicReally if you set your slicer to use relative positioning (G91), you could manually add a G1 Z-0.1 F300 just after the pause point, or however much the deflection is.
Also you could set a wider extrusion width. If you set it to like 2-3x nozzle diameter then it'll stick better even if the layer height is a little off.
I miss making the content but it was a lot more labor intensive and financially demanding to do. TH-cam is a hard enough game without adding hours more of dirty work & financial burden into the process. Someday it’ll come back, if this channel succeeds enough to offset the issues.
@@MandicReally well I did my part and ordered tubing benders and things after seeing you break down how you did you brake/fuel/AC lines. Helped me a lot on my projects for sure.
@@MandicReally😂 It’s turning into too many drawers full of stuff I can’t see. The tall shelves look great and I’m picturing a similar setup that would be super useful. 👍
Yeah, I could consolidate so much stuff into one area and have everything easily in reach. I appreciate your approach to use 3d printing with this project, especially trying something different and sharing the challenges. Keep doing awesome stuff and come get tattooed if you’re ever in Minnesota!
Now large enough unfortunately. I like the color contrast personally. Sadly Ikea is Ikea and discontinued the color of the cabinet so that was as close as the doors could get without painting.
Needed to buy a bit anyway, and the tool makes it SO much easier. I love printing but a tool that makes my life easier and is already designed? sign me up. I've got WAY too many hours of design time into this project already, ha.
:) Ok, I let you off this one time, there are some quick prints if you already have the bit, but otherwise.. As always loved the content, thank you for doing what you do!@@MandicReally
Yea, the service I use doesn't have good time options unfortunately, but it is a necessary evil sometimes. The experiment is done and the winner has been selected, so no more changes on this one!
To hold a computer cantilevered off the front of the entire assembly? I love 3D printing but there are limits. Why test them with a computer? The steel will be SIGNIFICANTLY stronger, and the only real indication it is there is that the base of the brackets is a little thicker than it would have been otherwise. If I didn't tell you, you probably wouldn't notice. So why not do something different and stronger?
11:14 - "I don't have time because it's the machine I use the most." You just wasted 13 hours of print time because you "didn't have time". That 13 hours could have been spent doing that project.
You should just add that runout sensor to the Voron. Just do it! No video, no nonsense. How long does it take really? 30 minutes? Save yourself the hassle. If you really want to make a video about it, then do it later. Don't continue to sacrifice your time for something as dumb as that.
I literally do not do that. Something is wrong with your sound if there is a mismatch in the words and video. Anytime you see me speaking on camera it is a microphone going directly into the camera, there is 0 delay. I’m quite sensitive to that myself, it isn’t happening in my videos.
Cool project. Since the Bambu one was separating once you put the steel in…. Do you think the weight of the steal may have caused some backlash causing it to be a little lower than intended for the next layer?
That is the likeliest and most logical explanation I’ve seen. The steel was preheated on both machines but only the Bambu reacted poorly. I may have to investigate the bed mechanism on that machine in relation to this.
@@MandicReally good test would also be to run another bracket and pause the print just like the steel version (but don’t put steel in… continue print and see what happens. Would be interesting to compare anyway
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Have you tried blue painters tape on top of the steel? Might make the bridging layers stick just a little
I think the layer seperation issue is coming from the steel itself. Steel is a good thermal conductor and I think when you place the steel in the part its cooling down the layers that are placed on top of it plus the part itself. I would try heating the steel up to like 70 or 80c and then placing the metal in the printed part.
I didn't mention it but I actually set the steel on the bed (110C) for as long as I could before embedding it. It was hot enough that I couldn't hold it for long when I was setting it into the print and I have asbestos hands. Still could be a factor of course. Just wasn't an issue on my Voron either attempt at the part, but was both times on the Bambu. It was odd.
What about using aluminum versus steel? It is quite strong and would still provide stability.
Came to say this. Pre-heat the steel somewhat would have likely solved all of this.
I had similar problems printing ASA on large parts in my Bambu X1C. It kept separating due to probably thermal issues. I ended up solving the problem by just printing the part in PETG and everything worked fine. Hope this helps.
@@ChippWaltersexcess cooling? Weird that it'd work fine on a Voron 2.4 and not an X1C. Same layer widths?
Every time I watch a video of yours I can't help but be impressed with the production quality you put in to it. The video looks great, the story/info regarding the project is done in a way that is enjoyable to watch, and the audio, I could just listen to you explain just about anything. You've shown many times just how 3D printing the things you need can help you accomplish the goals you've set out to achieve.
Thank you very much. You basically just outlined exactly what I set out to do, so you pretty much just made my day with this comment. I was up until 2AM last night getting this wrapped up so that means a lot to know the work pays off in how it is received.
You're an actual wizard. This video turned up randomly on my feed and I was anticipating some decent 3D printing content but the way you've blended the 3D printing and your very clear traditional manufacturing skills, like printing the steel weights into the brackets, is actually incredible, and the video was produced really well with great pacing and blend of deep explanation and time-lapse.
Instant subscribe from me.
Thank you so much for the kind and thoroughly explained comment. I really appreciate hearing this. Sometimes as a creator we don't know if the things we are making are being received how we really want, and comments like this are a real boost to morale. Welcome to the channel and I hope I continue to make more fun and engaging content for your to consume!
I liked the concept sketch part of the video! Shows what you have and what will be coming.
Ruby bringing in the art skills. An excellent addition to things. Thanks. 🙏🏻
Really like the desk riser setup.
Trying to make more efficient use of space is always the goal.
Spray the steel with a heavy coat (let it pool up a little) of aqua net after you place the in print the while the printer is paused. This does two things for you, since there is wet hairspray on top of steel you have to wait for it to evaporate and allow time for the steal to warm up. Second is it give something for the filament to stick to.
The steel was pre-heated on the print bed for a while before laying into the print (just didn't mention it in the video). And the design fully bridges OVER the steel, it does not contact. I've done this before, trying to print on the steel is a bad time. It just won't be at temp enough, flat enough, or at the proper layer height to function like a print bed.
Dude, you own a Bambu Lab printer, we know you ain't a stranger to poo portals 😂
Haaaa, you aren't wrong
@@MandicReally it's OK, I own one too. I share in your pain.
are we really still doing the "Bambu is garbage" meme?
@@theglowcloud2215 no, not at all. I love my bambu x1c. It's called making a light hearted joke based on the fact that bambu was the first mass market 3d printer that has a poop chute. I'm not and never have been one of the people who have been massively negative about everything bambu makes.
Printing the metal inside the model is really dope! Super innovative.
I think the steel is absorbing heat and causing rapid cooling. Just saw your comment about preheating the metal, however I still think its the issue. Also, thanks foe the video, way too many 2d printing channels are not doing enough videos on practical uses of the printers. After years od doing 3d printing, I just learned something new from you today.
Thank you very much. My goal with the channel is to move away from the tech heavy side of printing and just show how cool AND practical 3D Printing can be. So I'm glad it is coming across.
@MandicReally surprised you got through all the typos. Shouldn't do this without my glasses. Just a bit of feedback, back during the early days of 3d printing youtube, lots of creators presented cool projects on the uses of 3d printers. Now it seems so many creaters are dedicated to brands on optimizing specific printers or focusing excessively on hardware reviews and livestreams lasting more than an hour, these don't make for good quick watching while having breakfast. Practical print friday does lots of varied projects, but nice to see you too doing these projects. The hardware is not that exciting to watch anymore, and unless I am looking to buy a new printer, there are only so many reviews I can watch. However, project ideas, innovations in printing techniques etc... are more timeless as content
The blue painters tape also helps reduce chipping and blowout on the cut material! Great job on the new setup :)
Yep, I had a quick caption to that effect at some point in the video. Not sure how much it helps on this particle board stuff but can't hurt.
the filament sensor is a godsend!! i used the btt sfs 2.0 saved me a few times already. this is an awesome project, i dig the metal inside the print!!
Have a SFS 2.0 quaint for me to install it. Gonna make time this week. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I need that poo portal stl! I've got a project lined up to do almost the same thing but suck at modeling, thats perfect!
Ask and ye shall receive! The Poo Portal 2.0 is available on Thangs now: than.gs/m/1025489
@@MandicReally my hero! Thank you!!!
Hi Allen, A great tip for inserting steel parts into a print is to preheat the the steel before inserting it into the plastic.. I have done this by simply putting the steel part on the build plate while the rest of the part is printing, as long as the toolhead isn't going to hit it... or using another printer to to preheat the steel (or aluminum part).
Another great video 🙂👍
Thanks for the input, I did in fact do that though. I just didn't reference it in the video. My confusion really lies in why the Bambu had so much trouble where the Voron did not. The best input I've gotten is that the lighter duty bed mechanism of the Bambu may have lowered a little under the weight of the steel being added. Maybe just enough to cause the issue I saw.
I think a few people have already said this. But it may be a good idea too heat up the steel before putting it in the print. You may want to increase the hot end temp to the top end the filliment can take.
Maybe use a thermal sleeve around the steel. Use a radiator insulator to r something similar, this should give it enough time to print the next layer before the heat transfers.
That's an awesome build. Love the look of your 3D designed parts. Excellent work and great video.
Much appreciated!
You should get a Litter Robot. Total game changer!!
Possibly the steel might be weighing the bed down just enough to provide a weak Layer once y oh placed it. I feel having a more rigid plate may help but idk. Just a thought.
That is the likeliest answer I’ve seen. The Voron bed is fixed so a non issue.
What a fantastic effort and advert for 3d printing. Superb solution. Really impressed at the skills you have. Bravo 👏
Hi ,yeah I agree with some of the comments when I saw the steel and you bridging over it I was like no way thats goona stick, yes heating up the steel would work but finding the right temp to keep the steel warm and NOT melt the plastic is not goijng to be easy, I would suggest "Painters tape" on top of the steel and then you do normal layers, this way you dont have to worry about the nozzle and the plastic has something to stick to,.
Sendcutsend is a maker's dream for flat parts
Even for simple parts with a bend or two they can be pretty reasonable. They really do open up a LOT of possibilities with projects.
Can you share the Fusion project for the little brackets? They have a really interesting shape that I’m wondering how you achieved!
Which "Little brackets" are you referring to? I'm not a professional so my CAD workflows are usually... messy, which is why I usually just share STEP files from my designs and not the Fusion project files, but I'm open to doing so.
@@MandicReally The clamp brackets with inset screws they you put on the underside of the desk. Thanks for the reply!
I think that the main reason there was a layer separation on the bambulab is the chamber temp. Putting a cold piece of steel inside of a print might be the issue. The voron can compensate the loss of heat pretty fast having mains bed and a much beefier bed
The X1 bed is also Mains voltage. Though it certainly isn’t as beefy or thermal mass heavy as the Voron bed. I preheated the steel by laying it on the bed of both machines (the Bambu bed was hotter at 110C vs 105C on the Voron). And the chamber temp on the Bambu is generally 5-10C hotter than my Voron as the 2.4 has a larger chamber volume and the bed is at the bottom where it is coolest in the chamber.
x1c seperation could be the steel plate sagging the bed once added in. Seems to make the most sense. Could try some way of weighing down the bed using the steel plate for the first part of the print, but likely this is a horrid challenge as theres no way you could load that exact spot on the bed
I see that, but I did rest the plate on the bed for a while before laying it into the print. I did that to preheat it so it wasn't cold when inserting it. This still is a pretty logical possibility as to why the Bambu had issue when the Voron didn't. I may have to investigate that more. Thanks.
I wonder if you put some vision miner nano polymer adhesive on the steel that the filament prints over would help
The title should be:How to get cat and mouse live happily together with 3d printing. As you already figured out cats are an instant receipt for more TH-cam impact.
Ha, maybe I'll add that to the list to try other titles. I'm gonna test as this video is... all over the place, ha.
Nice A/B testing on the thumbnail! Great video
Just a bit of advice from a mail carrier, The mail could do better sitting vertical than horizontal as you have it, Also makes it easier to create dividers
let alone have that poo scent on all that material just sitting in that cabinet. Great way to contaminate everything.. Noice
@@deeply999 You did notice the cabinet is completely separated from everything else right? its an enclosed chamber with a HEPA filter that nothing else shares the space with. There is a divider at the top that completely isolates it from the drawers and shelves above.
Cool project. Since the Bambu one was separating once you put the steel in…. Do you think the weight of the steal may have caused some backlash causing it to be a little lower than intended for the next layer?
BambuLab's fail because of steel vs Lidar.
And I have reservations about the brackets because 3D printing is not the suitable material for the job, even with metal reinforcement. It's a matter of looks versus relevance. Joining aluminum extrusions together, which is their intended purpose, is likely too simple with basic screws.
Steel has huge thermal mass and is sapping heat from lower layers, that can't "remelt" for proper layer adhesion. Thus splitting
I fully see and expected that, but the steel was preheated on the bed before laying into the print. I was barely able to handle it for a few seconds. Definitely not 240C, but not cold by any means and thoroughly heated. Had it happened on both machines I'd 100% chock it up to the thermal mass issue, but the Voron had no issues with adhesion either time. Idk.
I know i am late to the party. But maybe try some painters tape on top of the steel? Or capton tape? I saw comments about you heating up and i see you did so maybe tape would have allowed you to print directly onto the steel? Just a thought. Cheers
Get a Prusa 3D printer. If you run out of filament, it will beep and you can just load another spool and carry on.
Have you compared the chamber temps between the X1C and your 2.4?
Was opening the doors to add the preheated steel allowing enough heat to escape and the bambu couldnt keep up?
The Bambu maintains a higher chamber temp cosnistently. It is usually between 50-52C while the Voron is generally 40-45C at Gantry height and less than 40C at the bottom. The Voron isn't insulated at all and has a much larger internal volume to heat. I print ABS and ASA almost exclusively on the Bambu and have never had a momentary temp dip in the chamber cause any issues. Not a bad thought process, just not sure it plays out in reality.
Great re-design. Love your work! 👌
3/8" steel seems overkill, and those reinforcement pieces seem unnecessary. Overall, your mounts take up a considerable amount of desktop, considering their function. FWIW, check out how uprights mount onto Uline's packing tables.
This is brilliant, Is the brackets for the extrusion available? They look wicked.
Which ones are you interested in? The ones that the steel embeds into would require someone to buy the steel as well. As such I wouldn't generally release something like that. I don't like making people HAVE to go buy something (aside from typical & widely available hardware) for my designs.
@@MandicReally Those were the ones I was thinking on as I never thought on using extrusion on a desk before like this. It seems a great idea. (BTW I would really love your Mercury 1.1 designs, they are awesome)
@@TechieNI I'll see about making some time to prep them for release. Shouldn't be far from ready to go.
The Mercury One files need a little time to organize and get ready, and I just haven't had that time lately. Hopefully a day this week. I had hoped to have them ready this weekend but this project ran over. They will be released at some point soon.
@@MandicReally Thank you kindly. Your videos are amazing as are your designs. Truly a gifted guy. Wish I could design stuff.
Big LIKE for the cat )
I wonder if some of the issue you have on the bambu especially is because you put cold steel in the middle of the part, and would be less of an issue if you would have heated them up closer to the chamber temp before inserting them into the print
I preheated the steel by setting it on the 110c bed for as long as I could before setting it into the print. Just didn’t mention it in the video cause I covered that in my last go around with this subject. Still may have been enough temperature difference to cause a problem.
I feel the "I dont have time to upgrade cuz busy" issue, but the way I look at it a failed 13hour print could've been prevented by an hour or 2 upgrading is a task well worth doing. Future you will thank past you. That said.... I haven't done input shaping or filament runout sensor yet.. so... grain of salt. 😂
one step, beyond ! great set up, and like the t-shirt .
That is one nice setup you have there. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for responding, subscribed!!
Look fantastic!! Now i want to figure out how to fix my setup! Love the poo portal!!
Thank you very much. I'm so happy with how much this organized and cleaned things up (so is Ruby... especially Ruby). The Poo Portal files are linked in the description if you have any use for them (or even if you don't, downloads help out, ha). Thanks for watching.
Did you heatsoak the steel parts in order for the ASA not to cool too fast and shrink?
I think you have to heat the steel at least at the temperature of the build plate
I'd assume that the inserted steel absorbs all the heat and thus you get the layer separation right above it, as the layer before got cooled off too much.
When i do something like this, i put the parts inside the chamber, so the temperature difference is not as big
I did set the steel on the bed for a while before laying it into the prints. So it was not just in the chamber but also absorbing bed heat (110C). It is still cooler than extrusion temps of course so it could still be a factor, but the Voron had NO issue while the Bambu had nothing but issue with it. And the Bambu I run the bed hotter and the chamber is warmer.
10:40 SEPARATION; Added weight from the steel, bed is just a little bit lower after putting it in there.
Maybe try preheating the steal to your printer bed temp.
My favorite part is the Poo Portal.
I really should redo a thumbnail entirely around that... ha
@@MandicReallyThat would be funny!
I didn't get into 3d printing while we had cats, but watching your video made me realize how much fun I'd have making hepa/carbon filter system for the litter area, or other quality of life hacks around the cats.
@@JohnOlson yea I intended to do a whole video on the subject and design a filtration system. Then I realized one of my spare house filters fit inside of that cabinet with the box and it just didn't make sense, ha.
Awesome project! Really cool
What is that shelving unit? I need to set up a shipping station of my own for my own business.
I suspect the layer separation on the Bambu was because the weight of the steel bar will ruin the precision that the bambu has with its rapid z hop it does. Not really sure the actual term but every time it ends on a seam it might be lowering the bed and raising it again very very quickly, but obviously a heavy steel bar would mess with that.
That said, i dont really know what im talking about ive had my X1C for less than a month XDDDD. Hopefully you get what i mean.
Cool video Alan!
Thank you very much!
Minion! Great name! Nice video, Alan!
Now I just need a whole army of minions!
Unrelated, but you may want to look at the nozzle of your v2.4. The artifacts on your v2.4, i had these and couldnt get rid of them, I've spent so much time before realizing it came from the nozzle being worn down, and it looks lime yours is starting to do the same
That is so awesome! I wish I had the space and money for those nice tools to upgrade my flat, but that's sadly not an option 😂
Ah man what is that bamboo mesh paper? I can't find it!
I really like the cabinet. Do you remember the name of it ?
The tall one? It is part of the Pax line at IKEA.
@mandicreally - can you post the STL or STEP files for your 40 40 extrusion mounting/connecting? I’m planning to do a similar setup on my home office standing desk, and have been looking for those exact solutions. I’d happy to pay for them if you post them on Thangs/Printables etc. Thanks in advance!
Seems like a 3D printed small shelf could be designed to fit over the Mac stand to sort of hide it and make it functional.
Not a bad idea at all. Could expand it wider to make it look like a bit of a floating shelf. I like it.
Next Design.... A slide-on wireless charger for the foot of the iMac. 🎉
You could probably print that hinge jig right?
Nice projects love to organize my office
Thank you very much. Maybe some ideas in here for your projects. 👍🏻👍🏻
This was awesome. What software do you use to design these 3d printed parts?
Thank you very much. I design in Autodesk Fusion 360. I got started on the free hobbyist tier and moved to the commercial licensing as my business grew around it.
Hold up… is that a server rack in the back of the intro shot? What are you cooking up?
Server rack has always been in the corner of the studio, I just finally cleaned things up enough with the new setup that I can film at an angle that highlights it.
It houses a couple of servers for my house / video work and will likely be the focus of a video at some point here. Nothing major planned at the moment. Got ideas? ha
Put a printer in there and use gpu’s running a local LLM like mistral or llama2 to create a heated chamber, click-bait title “3D printing with AI”
Wow, great job! Do you make house calls? 🙃
So the real question is… how’s the Ender 5 plus with the mercury conversion doing? No updates in 5 months
What's the shelving unit called from Ikea? I've been looking for something kind of like that for my print room.
It is part of the Pax line. They call them wardrobes I think.
@@MandicReally Thank you! I was trying to pause your video on the part number to see if I could figure out where it came from
7:09 hmmm I wonder what printer is hiding in the background there 🤔
😳🤐🤫
What microphone do you use for your videos, they always sound so nice! I’m starting a 3d print channel myself and I’m using a sennheiser mkh50
I use a couple. A Deity S-Mic 2 when I'm at the desk in the main studio shot. A Deity S-Mic 2s when I'm elsewhere in the studio or house (Deity's version of your MKH50). And a Beacon USB Mic for voiceover at the desk. There are subtle differences between them but they all mix decently.
I'd say the bulk of it is that I've sound treated my studio pretty well (the intro in the shipping area shows how back reverb can be). And I've learned to edit my audio for the mics I have. Not necessarily that they are the most amazing mics, but I've learned exactly how to get them to sound how I want with my particular voice. Which took some trial and error but I got their eventually. I'd highly recommend Mike Russel on here for some audio editing info: www.youtube.com/@MikeRussell
thanks!🙏@@MandicReally
I don't have a bambu printer so I'm not certain, but could the print issues with the steel be because the steel is weighing the bed down? Those look like some pretty heavy chunks, and even a 0.1mm deflection could stop the next layers from sticking properly.
I think this is the likeliest answer to what happened. I may have to play with testing weight movement on the Z axis.
@@MandicReally if you set your slicer to use relative positioning (G91), you could manually add a G1 Z-0.1 F300 just after the pause point, or however much the deflection is.
Also you could set a wider extrusion width. If you set it to like 2-3x nozzle diameter then it'll stick better even if the layer height is a little off.
really enjoyed watching your video ....
I NEED THE PAPER THING!
I really expected to see a “motion activated” light in the Poo Portal.
That’s gonna be a future project. 😅 Idea was obvious once we started but too late to roll it in.
Is that a server rack on the right at 0:22 seconds ?
Mmhmm. Always been a server rack in the studio, I just didn’t used to film at that angle much.
@@MandicReallythats so cool what all appliances are you running in there ?
I really wish Apple would have put a Vesa mount on the iMac. No more iMacs for me.
Brilliant!
10:43 You are using way too much cooling, I print Polymaker ASA and it does not look or sound this weak when breaking them.
Hot Rod Hippie was the best channel. Learned so much there. I really miss it….
I miss making the content but it was a lot more labor intensive and financially demanding to do. TH-cam is a hard enough game without adding hours more of dirty work & financial burden into the process. Someday it’ll come back, if this channel succeeds enough to offset the issues.
@@MandicReally well I did my part and ordered tubing benders and things after seeing you break down how you did you brake/fuel/AC lines. Helped me a lot on my projects for sure.
@@chargerman426 much appreciated. I’ve got a few HRH videos planned yet this year. We will get to them bit by bit.
I have the same Ikea drawers from the Before setup…
It is great, unless you put just a bit too much weight in the drawers, then it is terrible. ha
@@MandicReally😂
It’s turning into too many drawers full of stuff I can’t see. The tall shelves look great and I’m picturing a similar setup that would be super useful. 👍
Yeah, I could consolidate so much stuff into one area and have everything easily in reach. I appreciate your approach to use 3d printing with this project, especially trying something different and sharing the challenges. Keep doing awesome stuff and come get tattooed if you’re ever in Minnesota!
The rest of the door should be used as drawer faceboards for the two drawers!
Now large enough unfortunately. I like the color contrast personally. Sadly Ikea is Ikea and discontinued the color of the cabinet so that was as close as the doors could get without painting.
@@MandicReally that's unfortunate. The same color would look great with some cool printed knobs.
Litter Robot 4 will change your life
We’ve been on the fence forever about them. One of the cats refuses to bury his business, we really could use it.
5:55 You bought a Euro Hinge tool instead of printing a jig when you already showed you have F-bits? Sadness xD
Needed to buy a bit anyway, and the tool makes it SO much easier. I love printing but a tool that makes my life easier and is already designed? sign me up. I've got WAY too many hours of design time into this project already, ha.
:) Ok, I let you off this one time, there are some quick prints if you already have the bit, but otherwise..
As always loved the content, thank you for doing what you do!@@MandicReally
I guess heat the steel up in your oven first so it doesn’t contract everything and suck the heat away
It was preheated on the bed, but could have been heated more of course.
@@MandicReally ya like if it glows then all the layers will stick to it fine
The cover art changes are messing me up.
Yea, the service I use doesn't have good time options unfortunately, but it is a necessary evil sometimes. The experiment is done and the winner has been selected, so no more changes on this one!
@@MandicReally no worries. I just kept thinking “damn, he’s cranking out the videos” and it kept saying I had already watched it.
nice
Thanks
WHY did you bother embedding the steel into the upright brackets?? The design, extra walls & infill and strong filament looks more than adequate.
To hold a computer cantilevered off the front of the entire assembly? I love 3D printing but there are limits. Why test them with a computer? The steel will be SIGNIFICANTLY stronger, and the only real indication it is there is that the base of the brackets is a little thicker than it would have been otherwise. If I didn't tell you, you probably wouldn't notice. So why not do something different and stronger?
11:14 - "I don't have time because it's the machine I use the most."
You just wasted 13 hours of print time because you "didn't have time". That 13 hours could have been spent doing that project.
idk if ur cat poo stink but if u have problem i think it should be at a vented those ammonia
is no joke
You should just add that runout sensor to the Voron. Just do it! No video, no nonsense. How long does it take really? 30 minutes? Save yourself the hassle. If you really want to make a video about it, then do it later. Don't continue to sacrifice your time for something as dumb as that.
damn that's a lot of plastic waste
Cat
Please stop redubbing the audio. You do a decent job matching it to the live audio, but you can still tell, and it sounds really weird.
I literally do not do that. Something is wrong with your sound if there is a mismatch in the words and video. Anytime you see me speaking on camera it is a microphone going directly into the camera, there is 0 delay. I’m quite sensitive to that myself, it isn’t happening in my videos.
Cool project. Since the Bambu one was separating once you put the steel in…. Do you think the weight of the steal may have caused some backlash causing it to be a little lower than intended for the next layer?
That is the likeliest and most logical explanation I’ve seen. The steel was preheated on both machines but only the Bambu reacted poorly. I may have to investigate the bed mechanism on that machine in relation to this.
@@MandicReally good test would also be to run another bracket and pause the print just like the steel version (but don’t put steel in… continue print and see what happens. Would be interesting to compare anyway