Thank you for Not jamming the heat to the ceiling for the flow test. People act like temperature only effects flow and flow is the only thing worth bragging about! Very refreshing to see a realistic test
A lot of creators skip PETG when doing testing like this, but I really wish they wouldn't. I find you learn a lot more about flow rate because of how that material misbehaves when flow rate gets inconsistent.
I find that PETG flow capabilities varies more than other materials. I don't use it for that very reason. Its inconsistency between manufacturers makes it difficult to discuss. And in the end, I've largely stopped using it as a printing material. ASA is rising in popularity as enclosed machines become more common place, and PLA is still king. So that is what I cover. And for some unexplained reason the Bambu has always been extra finicky about PETG for me. Maybe the material I use (GreenGate3D), but it has been so I moved away from it long ago.
For PETG I usually go down with printspeed for sake of quality. I find overhangs and bridging benefits from that. Interesting to see PETG at higher speeds with the new part cooling fan duct.
I print almost exclusively in petg on a Bambu X1C. I have excellent results with Sunlu, hatchbox, and qidi tech. The Bambu flow rate calibration makes all the difference and drying the filament also makes a world of difference. I would prefer to print in abs or asa but I need proper ventilation and I don’t have that yet. PLA is awesome but only for some types of prints. If I care about the print durability and not having it melt in the summer also I prefer petg. If PLA had the same heat resistance I would probably stick to PLA. I want to do Asa and abs… someday.
One thing i noticed with the bambu hotends: the thermistor position is vastly influential on the flow rate at a set speed. Here is what my testing resulted: dragon hf with included copper nozzle and 60w heater got me 27mm3/s at 250c abs. The aliexpress bambu hotend i used was the first revision, so basically like the stock, but with removable nozzle and copper instead of brass for the heater block. If you install a v6 nozzle its melt zone is exactly as long as the one from a dragon hf. Same material, same length and the bambu one has even a heater that covers more of the heater itself. Results were still bad, 28mm3/s with a genuine bondtech cht at 250c. With the copper nozzle it was only 23. To get the same result i had to increase the temperature by 20c, which makes sense as the filament on the bambu one gets exposed to a lower temperature than the thermistor measures. On a dragon hf its exactly the opposite, the filament is exposed to a higher temperature than the thermistor sees due to the arrangement of the components. While testing at e3d you already noticed the changed thermistor position making it awkward to install the clip. Part of why the e3d obxidian hotend outperformed the others so greatly is the different thermistor position i dont know by how much, but its guaranteed that it played a part in it. As for the longevity of the heatsink of the AE hotend i wouldn't worry too much, you built a stealthburner and that thing has a filament path consisting out of plastic for a good portion. The helical spur gears on the fysetc feed gears do improve the meshing, making it more uniform, not more efficient, but also introduce a axial load which causes the gears to go out of alignment. The angle of the gearing causes a forward force on one gear and a backward one on the other, so the filament won't be in the deepest spot of the hobbing if you understand what i mean. To counter that effect the feed gears would need some sort of axial guidance, which they dont have. The idler runs on needle bearings and the idler leaver isn't even suspended on bearings. Of course this is theoretical, the friction between shaft and ball bearings might be greater than the axial force making my last paragraph useless in reality. As far as the cooling ducts go, you rarely see any improvement when increasing cooling in terms of maximum overhang angle. The maximum overhang angle is determined by the ratio of line width and height as with a low layer height the next layer isnt as much spaced out as with a coarser layer height. For example, a 2 to 1 ratio (0,4mm width and 0,2mm height) results in about 55 to 60 degree angles factoring in that a extruded line is rounded at the edge and not rectangular. So you could install a cpap fan and still get crappy overhangs over 60 degrees. For that reason my default line width is 0,5mm instead of 0,4mm while retaining the 0,2mm layer height. Anyway good video and i like that you always get straight to the point of the video, not much fuss around it. Please keep that
For me the attraction to the E3D hot end is the wear resistance. The ObXidian nozzle has been likened to equal or greater than wear resistance to tungsten carbide with the thermal properties of brass. In essence one nozzle for basic PLA and then go right into the abrasive crap with ZERO worries and no need to change the filament profiles I already have set which is fantastic.
I inherited 4 X1C/AMS sold one and bought, Qidi X-Smart-3 and X-Max-3. I print a lot of Carbon Fiber parts for the drag racing engines we custom build. Over all performance between the X1C and X-Max-3, I prefer the X-Max-3. Both have there pros and cons. However both have been great on printing billet parts & pre-preg fiber parts. We used the X1C to print the ASA-CF Hilborn stack ram tubes. Be nice if I could upload pictures on TH-cam.
this is a pretty dope set of upgrades. the finished product looks so clean. you're quite the engineer. this video didnt feel long but like a comprehensive journey build. great editing on this one
The amount of knowledge and how you explain everything is insane! Coming from an Ender 3 my X1C amazes me every single day. But im still always looking to upgrade stuff and improve! Thank you for passing on your knowledge!
I really enjoyed all this content - really great job on the testing of flow - that E3D hotend is looking more and more worth it - I was a little surprised to hear how much cooler you print by default - congrats on the fast speed benchy!!
I’ve tested Polymaker ASA back and forth and got my machines and uses, 240-255 is all it needs. Heck my 0.1 I have gone a slow as 235, but I bumped that up as I was concerned about adhesion strength. Never proved a problem but wanted to play it safer.
As far as you're issue with the TRP being tripped, the heating power is simply not enough. 48 watts of heating power is really only enough to keep up with the stock bambu lab hotend. there are some mods that people (including myself) have done where they would use heating elements with higher power ratings or wiring 2 of them in parallel to get more power. In doing so they can push higher flow rates and even higher temperatures. I personally was able to push around 70mm^3/sec flow rates and 320C hotend after my dual ceramic heater mod and it allowed me to get a 6:01 minute benchy out of it!
For the price, I really think they should have a fully assembled with all parts needed hot end for the E3D high flow. At the least they should offer a fully assembled version, even if it adds to the price. A lot of people I know with Bambu's have them because they don't want to tinker at all.
I have to wonder if the development of this hot end is more about the next gen printer Bambu is developing and less about unlocking the current lineup. While I understand why some would be intimidated by changing over the heater, thermistor and fan it’s not that terrible of a job. Since I have so many Bambu machines in my shop I bought extra complete hot ends as well as extra nozzles so I can swap the complete assembly in and get the machine running quickly and just swap nozzles over at my convenience. And to date I’ve only broken 1 nozzle due to the print I was doing and only had one nozzle clog so bad I couldn’t recover it. So to my mind the Bambu nozzles aren’t that bad. As far as pushing more performance out of the machine, I’m kinda torn on that. Yeah there are times I wish it was faster but then I remember how fast the machines I replaced were. And it’s not like I only have 1 kicking around here either. All I really want is the bigger build volume. Sure there is the k1 max or the QUDI tech x 3 max but those have issues I don’t wanna deal with. I’m just hoping that in the next 3-6 months Bambu finally releases a bigger machine.
What I'd love to see you test (as one of the very few creators who has managed to obtain the E3D Obsidian HF Hotend) is how the E3D HF Hotend compares with the Big Tree Tech X1 Panda Revo Hotend running a HF nozzle. Granted that the Revo HF hotends aren't hardened, but given that I don't print a lot of abrasive filaments, I would be willing to swap the convenience of the Revo quick swap nozzle system for, on the rare occasions when I want to print something abrasive, the need to swap the nozzle for a standard flow rate hardened steel revo nozzle.
Revo ObXidian High Flow is coming (And I have some of them already). I'm waiting on the release version of the Revo Panda. I have the Revo Panda but it was an engineering sample and changes have been made. So watch out real soon.
@@MandicReally being completely honest, once Revo ObXidian High Flow Nozzles are publicly available, assuming that the Panda X1 Revo Hotend with a HF nozzle can reliably do above 35mm² / second then the current Bambu / E3D collab option will be pretty much pointless at least for me.
A note on the CHT clone nozzles with copper inserts: In my testing, they actually impede flow rate unless you chamfer the copper insert to look more like a CHT nozzle. The insert simply blocks too much of the filament entry. After modification, they outflow a standard brass nozzle. Also, I believe the steel outer does reduce heat transfer efficiency, like any tool steel nozzle. Once the insert is modified, it can still outflow a standard nozzle at the same temp, but a temp increase for compensation also helps. Lastly, other people have tested if the copper insert wears down from abrasive filament and have found that's not the case. Basically, they are not great nozzles as they come, but with a quick Dremel mod they are overall excellent.
@@24h_ I used a Dremel with a very small cone shaped diamond burr bit. Any kind of sanding attachment can work if it's small enough. Basically you want something cone or radiused cone shaped that is small enough to fit in the unchamfered holes that you can grind towards the center without taking metal off the top of the outer steel portion. You'll be holding the Dremel at basically the same angle the filament would be pointing into the nozzle, just at a slight angle for each hole. Low speed will work fine, but just go slow until you get the hang of it. Grind until the dividing walls between each of the three entries come to a point instead of having a flat at the top. For some of my nozzles I went even further by grinding a slight divot in each of the walls and then grinding back to a thin peak so that all three walls are thin and scalloped with the center meeting point forming a slight point, similar to how the actual CHT nozzle looks. It doesn't really matter if it's perfectly even, but I did my best to make it uniform. The main point is to eliminate the flat surfaces the filament would hit and increase the area the filament has to enter the rest of the nozzle. If you are going to use these clone CHT nozzles, I definitely recommend it. Just try not to damage the flat top portion that seals against the heatbreak.
I believe someone tested the copper sleeve and it wasn't a bad thing the point of the 3 paths are to increase surface area and heat more evenly which technically a little wear will open up the holes but shouldn't change what comes out the tip I think it's hilarious how much people say the same thing you said about why go faster.. my question is .. why not? lol if you're saying why go faster then why buy a bambu the quest for speed is literally why bambu exists people making faster printers for ages and then a consumer friendly one came out lol
That BEN2C cooling duct is pretty interesting, I can't design fan ducts at all, so seeing something so complex and well-designed is really admirable. I absolutely love upgrading printers, so seeing the X1 pushed is awesome. I hope there'll be another episode in the future!
Great video!!! Just out of curiosity, you mentioned running slower than stock for improved quality. I don't suppose you would do a video on getting the best quality and possibly how to properly support prints? Really curious in the best way of getting quality prints. Anyways, no matter if you can or can't, really appreciate what you do and love watching your videos so thank you!
I saw good results with the AE Hotend and brass HF bored AE nozzles, up to 30 to 32, with PLA, PETG and also ASA and ABS. Every abrasive Material was a nightmare with the hardend AE Nozzle with copper core. I sign your result 100%. I am waiting for the panda hotend, willing to use this with HF Revo nozzles. They claims they will be available by march.
I’m waiting on the release sample of the Panda, but I should have it… soon? I also have the ObXidian Revo High Flow here, so we shall see what we can do. 👌🏻 I also have already killed the AE hardened nozzle in less than 1kg of filament. 😬
@@MandicReally Eager to see that test! I really liked the Revo on my Prusa MK3s as the nozzle swapping is just so simple. I still prefer the swapping design on the bambu over the classic E3D wrench stuff but it's a pain nonetheless.
Thanks for the video !! I really love your attention to detail! Also happy you did this for the x1c. I am a fellow x1c/Voron owner and have been curious about these mods to the x1. Thanks for being a trail blazer and showing the way.
I prefer the Ali Express because of the quick swap nozzles ... I slow print PETG mostly... I hate the extra work of needing to swap ... although , it did fall apart ... we need a quick swap solution... I know they fixed this in the A1 ...
got me a p1s two weeks ago... first i installed a led riser for the ams... after the first print with the riser on i noticed the cable chain and ptfe tube hitting the riser... then i made cable clips to hold to ptfe tube.. it was better but still appeared... then i added a ptfe guide for the print head!! i couldn't get the ptfe tube out so i had to make a toolset too LOOOOOL finally i was able to get the guide on the printhead. with the new guide and the cable clips its perfect now, did a few big test prints an no clicking at all!!! just modiefied the riser and addeda led diffuser wich came out pefect,... now im printing a power button to power the usb powered leds... tomorrow i also will print some ams ptfe tube guides... that probably will be it for the beginning..
Fantastic video as always. Thank you. Any chance you might do a video or give us a link to the settings you use for better quality. I’ve messed with acceleration and speeds but I’m sure your settings would be better since you surely know what your doing.
I used the AE HF hotend for about 900 hours of printing. It worked quite well and never had a clog on it. Then I bought the BQ Panda Revo - X1. Wish I could say it's better, but it fried my toolhead board
I've read that a few times now, really curious what is wrong with the pandas. I saw posts about horrendous quality control issue like already ripped cables out of the box so I'm not too surprised though.
I have NO inside information about such a thing existing at all. But I did see a K1 in their office when I visited… (seriously I have no idea if they ever will, but I’d like to see it too)
Thanks for this video, looking to ramp my X1C as I too use ASA a lot for functional prints, so found you doing the donkey on this is really helpful, already fitted the BEN2C duct. Waiting for X1plus firmware to give more options
Great vid. I'd like to see you take on the VZ bot printer with its AWD system, I could see you taking it to the next level with all of the potential it has.
Thanks! Your reviews were on of the reasons I got the X1C. Are you goin to cover any of the Panda stuff from Big TreeTech? I’m really happy with Bambu and how they are starting to work with 3rd parties. I was awesome to hear how they are directly working with X1 +.
I'm waiting on a delivery. Look out real soon. I don't believe the BTT Panda stuff is working WITH Bambu. To my knowledge the only company actually working WITH them is E3D on the ObXidian High Flow. Everyone else is just doing their own thing around it and Bambu isn't raising a stink.
High speed pla is not really a marketing gimmick, you just happened to pick two of the specific plas for comparison that have a high melting rate but are not marketed as such :D
Great video, interesting to watch and over to soon. I'm ordering the E3D nozzle a proper upgrade for 6% of the machine price. Thanks for giving the clear demonstration.
Very cool upgrades. Definitely will be looking into installing the baffles. I use the chimera mod which modifies a V1 china CHT hotend (no plate & extra support screws) to accept standard V6 sized nozzles so I can use diamondback nozzles. I haven't done any comparisons between my chimera, stock, etc. but anecdotally part strength & layer adhesion seems stronger with my modified nozzle compared to stock, or the V2 china CHT. I'm certainly hoping that my diamondbacks are the nozzles I'll have to buy for this machine.
I really wish you could get a diamondback nozzle for the bambu. Ive seen where people drill and cut their hotends to accept a diamondback. Something about doing that though gives me anxiety. Have you considered using a second auxiliary part cooling fan?
Thanks for making this! Very thorough, very useful! That E3D ObXidian HF looks very promosing. It surpasses my Monoprice Delta Pro with CHT nozzle and stock hotend; where I can go to just shy of 25 mm3/s, which is pretty good for a machine that age. I did try to push acceleration and print speed, but I don't get half of what the Bambu Lab printers can do, because the delta beds' rods are magnetically attached, and at those speeds, the magnetic rods simply detaches. However, even at more modest speeds of around 120-170 mm/s print speeds and 5,000 mm/s acceleration, I experience more drooping and stringing than with a standard nozzle. In my testing, this is inherent to the CHT nozzles I have. It would be nice to see whether the AliExpress and E3D ObXidian HF setups do this too, as this extra stringing is pretty annoying to have to remove. The benchy doesn't quite reveal how severe this problem is, but a string tower test will.
For those hooking up the bento box fans and dont want to drill any holes, there is sort of a pathway through the bottom to left and behind rear lead screw. I printed some small pads with hooks for cable management so it stayed away from the bed.
OOh i'd be so curious to see the copper insert testing! I had one on my prusa and I absolutely loved it (Volcano CHT) and with my 200g of CF filament I saw no change, but I only printed 200g :P
i can say this. The filters works like "so so". i have a air quality meter in the room and it hits rock bottom when it runs. So This mod is good i tell u guys.
I really wanted to do a full air quality test inside the chamber (and around the machine) before and after, but I just couldn't put this project off any longer.
i did my test outside with the filter with comes with my printer. and it told me bad news. But we all know that printers does leave bit of harmfull stuff @@MandicReally
I've already been doing testing and found that to be the case. The nozzle is already just about ruined and the copper is still largely fine. But it only took 800g of filament to ruin the nozzle so... I'll post more soon-ish.
On the ally express hot end, can you use a diamondback nozzle with it? I think it would be funny to have a $20 hot end with a $99 nozzle. Also, I agree that compensating flow with temperature isn’t ideal. You run the risk of the plastic going past it’s melt temperatures and decomposing in the hot end.
I doubt the copper insert will be an issue, the plastic is more molten there, most nozzle damage happens from the nozzle running over the cooled material where the carbon fibers are locked into place.
I don't think abrasive materials attack the inside of the nozzle, the only "high pressure" is at the actual end of the nozzle and abrasion is more likely to happen at the bottom of the horizontal surface where the nozzle brushes over the model. (i'm only talking about the melting zone, i'm not talking about abrasion from solid filament running in)
I am waiting for my ali express hotend to get here, but my motivation was different. I could not get the obXidian hotend as it seems to constantly be out of stock, so with the cheap one, I am following a mod called chimera that will allow for the use of V6 nozzles without throwing a height error on the X1. With this, I will be able to throw my diamondback nozzle on there, and I am hoping to see some pretty impressive results from that. I had a diamondback nozzle on my last printer, and it allowed me to reduce print temperatures of all my materials drastically. With the speed of the motion system in the X1, I am hoping that a diamondback on it will be pretty impressive.
Interesting video, thanks! My understanding with the hardened nozzles was that most of the wear occurs as the tip of the nozzle brushes over the cooled plastic on each pass, and the melted filament passing slowly through the inside doesn't abrade it nearly as much if at all. Might be wrong though!
Here is the original: www.printables.com/model/281016-flow-rate-test-geometry I only tweaked it by scaling it to match the OrcaSlicer flowrate test, then exported the STL from the slicer for future use. I don't want to repost it as a Remix as it was such a nothing change to it.
Hey there mandic. Thanks for all your work and efforts! Regarding the hotends you might have overlooked a interesting one. Biqu and bigtreetech partnered up and build the panda revo hotend for the x/p series printers, which allows you to install every available revo nozzles, supported with the 60w heater. They should start shipping in February. Yes... its expensive. But looking at the revos I think it's worth it
Thank you. I am aware of the Revo Panda, I even have one on hand. However to my knowledge it is only for the P1 series as of now. I should have the final release version on the way from Biqu currently. Look out for an "Ultimate P1S" build. 😉
I get wanting to test flow rates at the temps you print at. that makes total sense. What doesn't make sense to me is why you settled on 240 for your asa. That is 10c below the default temp in the slicer for that material. It is also the lowest value suggested by polymaker for that filament.
Because I’ve printed probably 50-100 kg of this exact material and tested it back and forth. On my machines, for my use cases, 235-250 is the temperature range it likes. On my Bambu X1 it is 245C. On my 0.1, it is 235. My 2.4: 244. It prints happily, flows well, and produces strong parts that are currently holding half the 3d printers in my studio together. Plenty of people think I print it too cool, but it works VERY well for me. Hotter just produces more stringing and reduced overhang quality with no appreciable difference in any other properties.
Just looking at the Overhang comparison tests you had from the side it looked like the stock versions didn't hold up to the angle it should have been compared with the BEN2C, what is it measuring with an angle gauge as compared to what the print says at that angle?
When you replaced the STL with the e3d racetrack model, did you scale the z axis to what the orca model was? At 12:37 it shows the Orca model has a height of 62mm. At 12:42 when you replaced the STL it has a height of 75mm. The slider on the right shows there are 235 layers as well. I know you can't show everything in the video when you're editing it but I also noticed at 22:01 you show the error and the screen shows 235 total layers. How did you take your measurements to determine max volumetric flow? Did you use the Orca slicer wiki to determine the values or did you compensate in a different way? Is there a different way to come up with the value with the e3d model? Hope that made sense. Clarify if I'm wrong about something.
Yea I scaled the E3D one to fit the bed better and match the necessary height. Then I exported it and used that STL (so I didn’t have to scale it every time). I should probably just upload the model I “created” but didn’t feel right about uploading their work with so little changes.
Great video! Did you do a video on the sound deadening sheets you applied inside the X1. It’s something I’ve been considering for a while and just wondered how well it worked out?
That was my very first modding video with the X1. You can find the video here: th-cam.com/video/GVgW8a-ly_E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Tt2Qil44ZKqUJrPS It made a marginal difference. Not unhappy I did it, but it wasn't a big change.
Great video, man. Any other like, general weirdness with the Aliexpress hotend? Otherwise that seems like quite the killer deal. Also, RIP contrast and saturation at 24:11
I've already killed the nozzle on the AE one. That "Hardened steel" isn't very hard. 800g of Glow in the Dark filament and it is already almost shot. Besides that it worked fine and for the price is a solid option.
I think the Ender 3 V3 KE is the new "budget" printer. It's fast, and it's pretty solid. I ran an 8 year old spool of Catalyst filament thru it (the vacuum seal broke so it was just a spool in a bag, and if you know anything about Catalyst, it was SH!T filament....kinks galore, and I've yet to have a roll that wasn't cross wound in at least one place)....printed like a charm. I like it more than my prusa.
GREAT VID. lots of usefull information but as newbie to 3d printing, I think im going to stay with stock hardware with my p1s when it arrives until . i get the hang of it! BUT i will come back to your videos in the future when i feel comfortable modding my machine !
The "Kinematic Mount" setup. It is a design that decouples the bed from the frame to allow for it to shrink and grow under temperature changes. The goal is to prevent it from warping under high temperature swings and keep it flatter. Here is the Github: github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/kinematic_bed And an Affiliate Link to Parts on West3D: collabs.shop/ek5dna
I would be interested in the results of the copper throat high flow wear test. According to diamondback nozzle wear is primarily caused by the tip rubbing on the printed plastic rather than the extrusion itself. That being said, try using a noclogger with the tri-hole insert.
Did you slice that yourself? The one that comes pre-loaded on the machine is 18 minutes, not 11. Speeding up below 20 minutes becomes an exponentially more difficult thing. Gaining 10 seconds can be achievement, a minute is a mile. That is why Albert over at 247Printing sub-5 minute benchies is so amazing.
@@MandicReally I sliced it myself. I knew about the 18 min benchy, bought the printer specifically for its speed and reliability, so first thing i did was go through all the settings I could and try to reduce the print time even further. Took me like a week of research before I even printed my first print. Took a lot of self control lol. I was very excited about my new printer. I also have the specs still, I can share them with you if you'd like. All in all, it took about 11 min (print time) to complete the benchy. Haven't messed with it since, it might even be capable of lesser times.
question on the Bento fans - how are you dealing with tach wires since there's two fans and one connection? Did you just hook one tach up and jump the 24v/gnd/signal on both of them together?
This. Does mean one fan may read improperly but it is the only way I can see to do it and not send an inaccurate signal back. Just realized I didn’t say which way I did it. I only used one Tach signal wire. Spliced the rest together.
I’m curious if you do anything for ventilation out side of your work area? I have bought a few rolls of ASA and I made a bento box. Really want to start printing some ASA but I’m worried to cause any harm to me, my family or the cat for that matter. lol my printers live in my closet just outside of my master bathroom (it’s the only place I have to setup printers) so my debate is running the bathroom exhaust fan and a bento box enough? Or should I be looking to vent straight from the printer? Obviously don’t want to reduce chamber temps. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Don’t wanna put anyone in harms way but also really want to print some ASA!!!
Hey @MandicReally, I am running the K1 CHCB-OT heater element on the E3D nozzle. Only problem with it, it's too short to connect to the board, so i had to extend it. I was able to push about 50MM^3. I have a video on my account showcasing 50mm^3, but I think it can go even higher. We also tried the Rapido v2 heater, but that killed their TH board. I still need to run more tests.
I was pushing 55mm3/s with the Sub-10 minute Benchys. It was... working, but likely underextruding a bit. When I tried to push to 60mm3/s is when I got the one that was a full on failure, ha. I'll wait for some further testing on heater options. Or hopefully the X1+ team can get PID tuning integrated.
Are you sure you're using the correct fans? The pulse signal may either be the incorrect voltage (5v rather than 3.3v) or the control board may be using an analogue signal rather than pulses.
Haven’t a clue as I didn’t feel like setting up an oscilloscope to test. So far they work well. They clearly set to differing speeds when commanded and have been running for many hours since this video without issue. That is all I can know without a full detailed spec sheet from both manufacturers or a fair bit of time with a scope. Mine is long out of commission so trial and error is where I land.
I think the older revision of the aliexpress hot end is better. It lacks the two extra screws, so heat creep is less likely, and it can be modded to match the same exact height as the stock hotend.
I thought I had heard somewhere that the nozzle gets damaged as the filament is cooling on the plate and not necessarily in the hot end so I wonder if the copper will erode as aggressively as a tip would
I remixed the original to my tastes. I don’t really know that it is any better, I just can’t leave anything alone. I don’t think my remix is worth posting though. The air guides are arguably a negative as you want the air to spread through the chamber and not focus (when the bed gets low it could act a bit like auxiliary cooling). I did it just to see if guiding the air would help reduce fan noise. No idea if it was successful.
The E3D Hotend are BACK IN STOCK! As of right now, February 19th, a resupply has dropped: e3d-online.com/products/hf-obx-bambu?aff=23 (affiliate link)
Funny timing
@@3vlogs487 how so?
@@MandicReally I just came back to rewatch the video because my included horned with the P1S is worn
Thank you for Not jamming the heat to the ceiling for the flow test. People act like temperature only effects flow and flow is the only thing worth bragging about! Very refreshing to see a realistic test
A lot of creators skip PETG when doing testing like this, but I really wish they wouldn't. I find you learn a lot more about flow rate because of how that material misbehaves when flow rate gets inconsistent.
I find that PETG flow capabilities varies more than other materials. I don't use it for that very reason. Its inconsistency between manufacturers makes it difficult to discuss. And in the end, I've largely stopped using it as a printing material. ASA is rising in popularity as enclosed machines become more common place, and PLA is still king. So that is what I cover. And for some unexplained reason the Bambu has always been extra finicky about PETG for me. Maybe the material I use (GreenGate3D), but it has been so I moved away from it long ago.
Yep, max flow is less limiting than that material's max linear adhesion speed. I raise my layer height for petg fairly often
For PETG I usually go down with printspeed for sake of quality. I find overhangs and bridging benefits from that. Interesting to see PETG at higher speeds with the new part cooling fan duct.
I print almost exclusively in petg on a Bambu X1C. I have excellent results with Sunlu, hatchbox, and qidi tech. The Bambu flow rate calibration makes all the difference and drying the filament also makes a world of difference. I would prefer to print in abs or asa but I need proper ventilation and I don’t have that yet. PLA is awesome but only for some types of prints. If I care about the print durability and not having it melt in the summer also I prefer petg. If PLA had the same heat resistance I would probably stick to PLA. I want to do Asa and abs… someday.
I just learned my first lesson on that the other day.
One thing i noticed with the bambu hotends: the thermistor position is vastly influential on the flow rate at a set speed. Here is what my testing resulted: dragon hf with included copper nozzle and 60w heater got me 27mm3/s at 250c abs. The aliexpress bambu hotend i used was the first revision, so basically like the stock, but with removable nozzle and copper instead of brass for the heater block. If you install a v6 nozzle its melt zone is exactly as long as the one from a dragon hf. Same material, same length and the bambu one has even a heater that covers more of the heater itself. Results were still bad, 28mm3/s with a genuine bondtech cht at 250c. With the copper nozzle it was only 23. To get the same result i had to increase the temperature by 20c, which makes sense as the filament on the bambu one gets exposed to a lower temperature than the thermistor measures. On a dragon hf its exactly the opposite, the filament is exposed to a higher temperature than the thermistor sees due to the arrangement of the components.
While testing at e3d you already noticed the changed thermistor position making it awkward to install the clip. Part of why the e3d obxidian hotend outperformed the others so greatly is the different thermistor position i dont know by how much, but its guaranteed that it played a part in it.
As for the longevity of the heatsink of the AE hotend i wouldn't worry too much, you built a stealthburner and that thing has a filament path consisting out of plastic for a good portion.
The helical spur gears on the fysetc feed gears do improve the meshing, making it more uniform, not more efficient, but also introduce a axial load which causes the gears to go out of alignment. The angle of the gearing causes a forward force on one gear and a backward one on the other, so the filament won't be in the deepest spot of the hobbing if you understand what i mean. To counter that effect the feed gears would need some sort of axial guidance, which they dont have. The idler runs on needle bearings and the idler leaver isn't even suspended on bearings. Of course this is theoretical, the friction between shaft and ball bearings might be greater than the axial force making my last paragraph useless in reality.
As far as the cooling ducts go, you rarely see any improvement when increasing cooling in terms of maximum overhang angle. The maximum overhang angle is determined by the ratio of line width and height as with a low layer height the next layer isnt as much spaced out as with a coarser layer height. For example, a 2 to 1 ratio (0,4mm width and 0,2mm height) results in about 55 to 60 degree angles factoring in that a extruded line is rounded at the edge and not rectangular. So you could install a cpap fan and still get crappy overhangs over 60 degrees. For that reason my default line width is 0,5mm instead of 0,4mm while retaining the 0,2mm layer height.
Anyway good video and i like that you always get straight to the point of the video, not much fuss around it. Please keep that
damn
For me the attraction to the E3D hot end is the wear resistance. The ObXidian nozzle has been likened to equal or greater than wear resistance to tungsten carbide with the thermal properties of brass. In essence one nozzle for basic PLA and then go right into the abrasive crap with ZERO worries and no need to change the filament profiles I already have set which is fantastic.
I inherited 4 X1C/AMS sold one and bought, Qidi X-Smart-3 and X-Max-3. I print a lot of Carbon Fiber parts for the drag racing engines we custom build. Over all performance between the X1C and X-Max-3, I prefer the X-Max-3. Both have there pros and cons. However both have been great on printing billet parts & pre-preg fiber parts. We used the X1C to print the ASA-CF Hilborn stack ram tubes. Be nice if I could upload pictures on TH-cam.
this is a pretty dope set of upgrades. the finished product looks so clean. you're quite the engineer. this video didnt feel long but like a comprehensive journey build. great editing on this one
Thank you very much, I worried the pacing so it is great to here that perspective. Glad you enjoyed it.
The amount of knowledge and how you explain everything is insane! Coming from an Ender 3 my X1C amazes me every single day. But im still always looking to upgrade stuff and improve! Thank you for passing on your knowledge!
I really enjoyed all this content - really great job on the testing of flow - that E3D hotend is looking more and more worth it - I was a little surprised to hear how much cooler you print by default - congrats on the fast speed benchy!!
I’ve tested Polymaker ASA back and forth and got my machines and uses, 240-255 is all it needs. Heck my 0.1 I have gone a slow as 235, but I bumped that up as I was concerned about adhesion strength. Never proved a problem but wanted to play it safer.
Killer list of mods and great indepth look at them all. Very well done, Alan!
Thank you very much Brad.
Brad!
I love your Bambu content, I don’t see myself tinkering with my x1 which I’m super happy with as is stock but it’s nice seeing what it’s capable of.
Great video as always and loved the intro, so cool!
Great upgrades, really make the printer capable of serious engineering work!
As far as you're issue with the TRP being tripped, the heating power is simply not enough. 48 watts of heating power is really only enough to keep up with the stock bambu lab hotend. there are some mods that people (including myself) have done where they would use heating elements with higher power ratings or wiring 2 of them in parallel to get more power. In doing so they can push higher flow rates and even higher temperatures. I personally was able to push around 70mm^3/sec flow rates and 320C hotend after my dual ceramic heater mod and it allowed me to get a 6:01 minute benchy out of it!
This feels like a video of diminishing returns but I guess I wont know for sure until I try them all 😉😂
My ADHD thanks you for also talking so clearly so that I can consume these at 2x speed :D
For the price, I really think they should have a fully assembled with all parts needed hot end for the E3D high flow. At the least they should offer a fully assembled version, even if it adds to the price. A lot of people I know with Bambu's have them because they don't want to tinker at all.
I have to wonder if the development of this hot end is more about the next gen printer Bambu is developing and less about unlocking the current lineup.
While I understand why some would be intimidated by changing over the heater, thermistor and fan it’s not that terrible of a job. Since I have so many Bambu machines in my shop I bought extra complete hot ends as well as extra nozzles so I can swap the complete assembly in and get the machine running quickly and just swap nozzles over at my convenience. And to date I’ve only broken 1 nozzle due to the print I was doing and only had one nozzle clog so bad I couldn’t recover it. So to my mind the Bambu nozzles aren’t that bad.
As far as pushing more performance out of the machine, I’m kinda torn on that. Yeah there are times I wish it was faster but then I remember how fast the machines I replaced were. And it’s not like I only have 1 kicking around here either. All I really want is the bigger build volume. Sure there is the k1 max or the QUDI tech x 3 max but those have issues I don’t wanna deal with. I’m just hoping that in the next 3-6 months Bambu finally releases a bigger machine.
What I'd love to see you test (as one of the very few creators who has managed to obtain the E3D Obsidian HF Hotend) is how the E3D HF Hotend compares with the Big Tree Tech X1 Panda Revo Hotend running a HF nozzle. Granted that the Revo HF hotends aren't hardened, but given that I don't print a lot of abrasive filaments, I would be willing to swap the convenience of the Revo quick swap nozzle system for, on the rare occasions when I want to print something abrasive, the need to swap the nozzle for a standard flow rate hardened steel revo nozzle.
Revo ObXidian High Flow is coming (And I have some of them already). I'm waiting on the release version of the Revo Panda. I have the Revo Panda but it was an engineering sample and changes have been made. So watch out real soon.
@@MandicReally being completely honest, once Revo ObXidian High Flow Nozzles are publicly available, assuming that the Panda X1 Revo Hotend with a HF nozzle can reliably do above 35mm² / second then the current Bambu / E3D collab option will be pretty much pointless at least for me.
This guy is providing free value upfront. Liked. More people should be like him.
A note on the CHT clone nozzles with copper inserts: In my testing, they actually impede flow rate unless you chamfer the copper insert to look more like a CHT nozzle. The insert simply blocks too much of the filament entry. After modification, they outflow a standard brass nozzle. Also, I believe the steel outer does reduce heat transfer efficiency, like any tool steel nozzle. Once the insert is modified, it can still outflow a standard nozzle at the same temp, but a temp increase for compensation also helps. Lastly, other people have tested if the copper insert wears down from abrasive filament and have found that's not the case. Basically, they are not great nozzles as they come, but with a quick Dremel mod they are overall excellent.
How would you recommend trying this mod? Are there any more detailed instructions?
@@24h_ I used a Dremel with a very small cone shaped diamond burr bit. Any kind of sanding attachment can work if it's small enough. Basically you want something cone or radiused cone shaped that is small enough to fit in the unchamfered holes that you can grind towards the center without taking metal off the top of the outer steel portion. You'll be holding the Dremel at basically the same angle the filament would be pointing into the nozzle, just at a slight angle for each hole. Low speed will work fine, but just go slow until you get the hang of it. Grind until the dividing walls between each of the three entries come to a point instead of having a flat at the top. For some of my nozzles I went even further by grinding a slight divot in each of the walls and then grinding back to a thin peak so that all three walls are thin and scalloped with the center meeting point forming a slight point, similar to how the actual CHT nozzle looks. It doesn't really matter if it's perfectly even, but I did my best to make it uniform. The main point is to eliminate the flat surfaces the filament would hit and increase the area the filament has to enter the rest of the nozzle. If you are going to use these clone CHT nozzles, I definitely recommend it. Just try not to damage the flat top portion that seals against the heatbreak.
this was an easy watch, I can't believe it was the longest video to date! very interesting stuff.
I believe someone tested the copper sleeve and it wasn't a bad thing the point of the 3 paths are to increase surface area and heat more evenly which technically a little wear will open up the holes but shouldn't change what comes out the tip
I think it's hilarious how much people say the same thing you said about why go faster.. my question is .. why not? lol if you're saying why go faster then why buy a bambu the quest for speed is literally why bambu exists people making faster printers for ages and then a consumer friendly one came out lol
That BEN2C cooling duct is pretty interesting, I can't design fan ducts at all, so seeing something so complex and well-designed is really admirable. I absolutely love upgrading printers, so seeing the X1 pushed is awesome. I hope there'll be another episode in the future!
Great video!!! Just out of curiosity, you mentioned running slower than stock for improved quality. I don't suppose you would do a video on getting the best quality and possibly how to properly support prints? Really curious in the best way of getting quality prints. Anyways, no matter if you can or can't, really appreciate what you do and love watching your videos so thank you!
I saw good results with the AE Hotend and brass HF bored AE nozzles, up to 30 to 32, with PLA, PETG and also ASA and ABS. Every abrasive Material was a nightmare with the hardend AE Nozzle with copper core. I sign your result 100%. I am waiting for the panda hotend, willing to use this with HF Revo nozzles. They claims they will be available by march.
I’m waiting on the release sample of the Panda, but I should have it… soon? I also have the ObXidian Revo High Flow here, so we shall see what we can do. 👌🏻
I also have already killed the AE hardened nozzle in less than 1kg of filament. 😬
@@MandicReally Eager to see that test! I really liked the Revo on my Prusa MK3s as the nozzle swapping is just so simple. I still prefer the swapping design on the bambu over the classic E3D wrench stuff but it's a pain nonetheless.
Thanks for the video !! I really love your attention to detail! Also happy you did this for the x1c. I am a fellow x1c/Voron owner and have been curious about these mods to the x1. Thanks for being a trail blazer and showing the way.
AYE!!!! A philly guy! From South Jersey myself 10 min from the Walt!
I prefer the Ali Express because of the quick swap nozzles ... I slow print PETG mostly... I hate the extra work of needing to swap ... although , it did fall apart ... we need a quick swap solution... I know they fixed this in the A1 ...
got me a p1s two weeks ago... first i installed a led riser for the ams... after the first print with the riser on i noticed the cable chain and ptfe tube hitting the riser...
then i made cable clips to hold to ptfe tube.. it was better but still appeared... then i added a ptfe guide for the print head!! i couldn't get the ptfe tube out so i had to make a toolset too LOOOOOL finally i was able to get the guide on the printhead. with the new guide and the cable clips its perfect now, did a few big test prints an no clicking at all!!! just modiefied the riser and addeda led diffuser wich came out pefect,... now im printing a power button to power the usb powered leds... tomorrow i also will print some ams ptfe tube guides... that probably will be it for the beginning..
Fantastic video as always. Thank you. Any chance you might do a video or give us a link to the settings you use for better quality. I’ve messed with acceleration and speeds but I’m sure your settings would be better since you surely know what your doing.
Great video, I've seen all these mods and wonder how well they work. I appreciate you trying them out.
I always wondered if a second auxiliary parts cooling fan could help with overhangs.
Watch out for a future video. 😉 "Ultimate P1S" maybe?
I used the AE HF hotend for about 900 hours of printing. It worked quite well and never had a clog on it. Then I bought the BQ Panda Revo - X1. Wish I could say it's better, but it fried my toolhead board
I've read that a few times now, really curious what is wrong with the pandas. I saw posts about horrendous quality control issue like already ripped cables out of the box so I'm not too surprised though.
Watching this while fixing my Ender 3 is a weird feeling
I should really go work on my Ender 3 now. We use what works and what we have. I want to rotate my Ender 3 back into the mix ASAP.
Ender 3 is more fun as you can tweak the firmware and all the hardware, upgrade Marlin and try Klipper. Mine does 17m.
@@eaman11I already switched to Klipper. Just swapped to the Satsana fan duct and now I’m getting a bunch of stringing 😭
I wish E3D would come out with an upgrade for the Creality K1/Ender 3 V3 KE (they use the same hotend)
I have NO inside information about such a thing existing at all. But I did see a K1 in their office when I visited… (seriously I have no idea if they ever will, but I’d like to see it too)
Thanks for this video, looking to ramp my X1C as I too use ASA a lot for functional prints, so found you doing the donkey on this is really helpful, already fitted the BEN2C duct. Waiting for X1plus firmware to give more options
Great vid. I'd like to see you take on the VZ bot printer with its AWD system, I could see you taking it to the next level with all of the potential it has.
Thanks! Your reviews were on of the reasons I got the X1C. Are you goin to cover any of the Panda stuff from Big TreeTech? I’m really happy with Bambu and how they are starting to work with 3rd parties. I was awesome to hear how they are directly working with X1 +.
I'm waiting on a delivery. Look out real soon.
I don't believe the BTT Panda stuff is working WITH Bambu. To my knowledge the only company actually working WITH them is E3D on the ObXidian High Flow. Everyone else is just doing their own thing around it and Bambu isn't raising a stink.
@@MandicReally I get it. It would be interesting to see if they have a contact with Bambu. I’d also love to see Bambu do a “Made for Bambu” program.
High speed pla is not really a marketing gimmick, you just happened to pick two of the specific plas for comparison that have a high melting rate but are not marketed as such :D
Great video, interesting to watch and over to soon. I'm ordering the E3D nozzle a proper upgrade for 6% of the machine price. Thanks for giving the clear demonstration.
Very cool upgrades. Definitely will be looking into installing the baffles. I use the chimera mod which modifies a V1 china CHT hotend (no plate & extra support screws) to accept standard V6 sized nozzles so I can use diamondback nozzles. I haven't done any comparisons between my chimera, stock, etc. but anecdotally part strength & layer adhesion seems stronger with my modified nozzle compared to stock, or the V2 china CHT. I'm certainly hoping that my diamondbacks are the nozzles I'll have to buy for this machine.
I really wish you could get a diamondback nozzle for the bambu. Ive seen where people drill and cut their hotends to accept a diamondback. Something about doing that though gives me anxiety.
Have you considered using a second auxiliary part cooling fan?
Thanks for making this! Very thorough, very useful! That E3D ObXidian HF looks very promosing. It surpasses my Monoprice Delta Pro with CHT nozzle and stock hotend; where I can go to just shy of 25 mm3/s, which is pretty good for a machine that age. I did try to push acceleration and print speed, but I don't get half of what the Bambu Lab printers can do, because the delta beds' rods are magnetically attached, and at those speeds, the magnetic rods simply detaches.
However, even at more modest speeds of around 120-170 mm/s print speeds and 5,000 mm/s acceleration, I experience more drooping and stringing than with a standard nozzle. In my testing, this is inherent to the CHT nozzles I have. It would be nice to see whether the AliExpress and E3D ObXidian HF setups do this too, as this extra stringing is pretty annoying to have to remove. The benchy doesn't quite reveal how severe this problem is, but a string tower test will.
For those hooking up the bento box fans and dont want to drill any holes, there is sort of a pathway through the bottom to left and behind rear lead screw. I printed some small pads with hooks for cable management so it stayed away from the bed.
OOh i'd be so curious to see the copper insert testing! I had one on my prusa and I absolutely loved it (Volcano CHT) and with my 200g of CF filament I saw no change, but I only printed 200g :P
So much good info. Great video.
i can say this. The filters works like "so so". i have a air quality meter in the room and it hits rock bottom when it runs. So This mod is good i tell u guys.
I really wanted to do a full air quality test inside the chamber (and around the machine) before and after, but I just couldn't put this project off any longer.
i did my test outside with the filter with comes with my printer. and it told me bad news. But we all know that printers does leave bit of harmfull stuff @@MandicReally
My test was done by a external sensor. and that gave me a red flag,. but anyhow. im sorry my english is bad. :)
Note for presenting bar graphs, maybe make each filament a different color/shade to help readability!
Great video, thank you for all the work and documentation!
5-10 mm3/s is not just marginally better
Yea, that was poor word choice on my part. I already have the E3D results so it was coloring my language choice as they were so dramatically better.
15:23 i don't remember which abrasive test I saw, but the upshot was that most of the way was at the tip, and the copper insert was fine
I've already been doing testing and found that to be the case. The nozzle is already just about ruined and the copper is still largely fine. But it only took 800g of filament to ruin the nozzle so... I'll post more soon-ish.
On the ally express hot end, can you use a diamondback nozzle with it? I think it would be funny to have a $20 hot end with a $99 nozzle.
Also, I agree that compensating flow with temperature isn’t ideal. You run the risk of the plastic going past it’s melt temperatures and decomposing in the hot end.
I doubt the copper insert will be an issue, the plastic is more molten there, most nozzle damage happens from the nozzle running over the cooled material where the carbon fibers are locked into place.
That is certainly the higher wear point. And I wore out the AliExpress nozzle in less than 800g of Glow In the Dark filament.
I don't think abrasive materials attack the inside of the nozzle, the only "high pressure" is at the actual end of the nozzle and abrasion is more likely to happen at the bottom of the horizontal surface where the nozzle brushes over the model. (i'm only talking about the melting zone, i'm not talking about abrasion from solid filament running in)
You make great videos.
Thanks for the video, just what I was looking for!
Good morning from the CRIT reservation
Good morning and welcome!
I am waiting for my ali express hotend to get here, but my motivation was different. I could not get the obXidian hotend as it seems to constantly be out of stock, so with the cheap one, I am following a mod called chimera that will allow for the use of V6 nozzles without throwing a height error on the X1. With this, I will be able to throw my diamondback nozzle on there, and I am hoping to see some pretty impressive results from that. I had a diamondback nozzle on my last printer, and it allowed me to reduce print temperatures of all my materials drastically. With the speed of the motion system in the X1, I am hoping that a diamondback on it will be pretty impressive.
Interesting video, thanks! My understanding with the hardened nozzles was that most of the wear occurs as the tip of the nozzle brushes over the cooled plastic on each pass, and the melted filament passing slowly through the inside doesn't abrade it nearly as much if at all. Might be wrong though!
Out of this world printer for sure!
if only the e3d was ever in stock. just getting a 10% increase will pay off in a very short period on my mini farm.
I’ve been printing my poly ASA at 13mm3s haha super low gotta bump that number up
I can confirm poly ASA stock hotend 26. Will set to 25 to be safe. And I print at 260c
I need to get that different racetrack test file!
Here is the original: www.printables.com/model/281016-flow-rate-test-geometry
I only tweaked it by scaling it to match the OrcaSlicer flowrate test, then exported the STL from the slicer for future use. I don't want to repost it as a Remix as it was such a nothing change to it.
@@MandicReally it looks so much better than the stock one I might just replace it in the orca files lol.
Hey there mandic.
Thanks for all your work and efforts!
Regarding the hotends you might have overlooked a interesting one.
Biqu and bigtreetech partnered up and build the panda revo hotend for the x/p series printers, which allows you to install every available revo nozzles, supported with the 60w heater. They should start shipping in February. Yes... its expensive. But looking at the revos I think it's worth it
Thank you. I am aware of the Revo Panda, I even have one on hand. However to my knowledge it is only for the P1 series as of now. I should have the final release version on the way from Biqu currently. Look out for an "Ultimate P1S" build. 😉
@@MandicReally well... they offer a x1 version now aswell 😉
But I doubt, results will differ much from both versions
once you get superglue on your hands, you can move on! 🤣
That’s how you know you’ve done it right. 🤣
I get wanting to test flow rates at the temps you print at. that makes total sense. What doesn't make sense to me is why you settled on 240 for your asa. That is 10c below the default temp in the slicer for that material. It is also the lowest value suggested by polymaker for that filament.
Because I’ve printed probably 50-100 kg of this exact material and tested it back and forth. On my machines, for my use cases, 235-250 is the temperature range it likes. On my Bambu X1 it is 245C. On my 0.1, it is 235. My 2.4: 244. It prints happily, flows well, and produces strong parts that are currently holding half the 3d printers in my studio together. Plenty of people think I print it too cool, but it works VERY well for me. Hotter just produces more stringing and reduced overhang quality with no appreciable difference in any other properties.
Just looking at the Overhang comparison tests you had from the side it looked like the stock versions didn't hold up to the angle it should have been compared with the BEN2C, what is it measuring with an angle gauge as compared to what the print says at that angle?
Any issues with the fystec gears after all this time? And updates on that mod?
When you replaced the STL with the e3d racetrack model, did you scale the z axis to what the orca model was? At 12:37 it shows the Orca model has a height of 62mm. At 12:42 when you replaced the STL it has a height of 75mm. The slider on the right shows there are 235 layers as well. I know you can't show everything in the video when you're editing it but I also noticed at 22:01 you show the error and the screen shows 235 total layers. How did you take your measurements to determine max volumetric flow? Did you use the Orca slicer wiki to determine the values or did you compensate in a different way? Is there a different way to come up with the value with the e3d model? Hope that made sense. Clarify if I'm wrong about something.
Yea I scaled the E3D one to fit the bed better and match the necessary height. Then I exported it and used that STL (so I didn’t have to scale it every time). I should probably just upload the model I “created” but didn’t feel right about uploading their work with so little changes.
@@MandicReally Gotcha yea simply scaling the model wouldn't constitute a remix I don't think. Thank you for clarifying.
Great video! Did you do a video on the sound deadening sheets you applied inside the X1. It’s something I’ve been considering for a while and just wondered how well it worked out?
That was my very first modding video with the X1. You can find the video here: th-cam.com/video/GVgW8a-ly_E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Tt2Qil44ZKqUJrPS
It made a marginal difference. Not unhappy I did it, but it wasn't a big change.
I'm happy to see that enclosure seal parts
Gonna try it on my p1sc
Nice work.
Long time subscriber bro, but I just realized… have you ever thought about being Weird Al Yankovic for Halloween? You could pull it off!
Excellent video again!
Great video, man.
Any other like, general weirdness with the Aliexpress hotend? Otherwise that seems like quite the killer deal.
Also, RIP contrast and saturation at 24:11
I've already killed the nozzle on the AE one. That "Hardened steel" isn't very hard. 800g of Glow in the Dark filament and it is already almost shot. Besides that it worked fine and for the price is a solid option.
I think the Ender 3 V3 KE is the new "budget" printer. It's fast, and it's pretty solid. I ran an 8 year old spool of Catalyst filament thru it (the vacuum seal broke so it was just a spool in a bag, and if you know anything about Catalyst, it was SH!T filament....kinks galore, and I've yet to have a roll that wasn't cross wound in at least one place)....printed like a charm. I like it more than my prusa.
Man, I love polyterra
GREAT VID. lots of usefull information but as newbie to 3d printing, I think im going to stay with stock hardware with my p1s when it arrives until . i get the hang of it! BUT i will come back to your videos in the future when i feel comfortable modding my machine !
what are those pieces under the bed of your voron 2.4?
The "Kinematic Mount" setup. It is a design that decouples the bed from the frame to allow for it to shrink and grow under temperature changes. The goal is to prevent it from warping under high temperature swings and keep it flatter.
Here is the Github: github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/kinematic_bed
And an Affiliate Link to Parts on West3D: collabs.shop/ek5dna
MOAR CAT!
I would be interested in the results of the copper throat high flow wear test. According to diamondback nozzle wear is primarily caused by the tip rubbing on the printed plastic rather than the extrusion itself. That being said, try using a noclogger with the tri-hole insert.
I can´t for the life of me find the Race track cal. tool. Great video as always Btw.
Are you planning on testing the E3D Hotend vs the Biqu Revo? Would love to see the differences between them.
Watch out real SOON. 👍
My fist print on my Bmabu was an 11min benchy. Looked decent for stock 11min.
Did you slice that yourself? The one that comes pre-loaded on the machine is 18 minutes, not 11. Speeding up below 20 minutes becomes an exponentially more difficult thing. Gaining 10 seconds can be achievement, a minute is a mile. That is why Albert over at 247Printing sub-5 minute benchies is so amazing.
@@MandicReally I sliced it myself. I knew about the 18 min benchy, bought the printer specifically for its speed and reliability, so first thing i did was go through all the settings I could and try to reduce the print time even further. Took me like a week of research before I even printed my first print. Took a lot of self control lol. I was very excited about my new printer. I also have the specs still, I can share them with you if you'd like. All in all, it took about 11 min (print time) to complete the benchy. Haven't messed with it since, it might even be capable of lesser times.
question on the Bento fans - how are you dealing with tach wires since there's two fans and one connection? Did you just hook one tach up and jump the 24v/gnd/signal on both of them together?
This. Does mean one fan may read improperly but it is the only way I can see to do it and not send an inaccurate signal back.
Just realized I didn’t say which way I did it. I only used one Tach signal wire. Spliced the rest together.
I love how “VHB” turned into a verb. vhb ftw
I’m curious if you do anything for ventilation out side of your work area? I have bought a few rolls of ASA and I made a bento box. Really want to start printing some ASA but I’m worried to cause any harm to me, my family or the cat for that matter. lol my printers live in my closet just outside of my master bathroom (it’s the only place I have to setup printers) so my debate is running the bathroom exhaust fan and a bento box enough? Or should I be looking to vent straight from the printer? Obviously don’t want to reduce chamber temps. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Don’t wanna put anyone in harms way but also really want to print some ASA!!!
Hey @MandicReally, I am running the K1 CHCB-OT heater element on the E3D nozzle. Only problem with it, it's too short to connect to the board, so i had to extend it.
I was able to push about 50MM^3. I have a video on my account showcasing 50mm^3, but I think it can go even higher. We also tried the Rapido v2 heater, but that killed their TH board. I still need to run more tests.
I was pushing 55mm3/s with the Sub-10 minute Benchys. It was... working, but likely underextruding a bit. When I tried to push to 60mm3/s is when I got the one that was a full on failure, ha.
I'll wait for some further testing on heater options. Or hopefully the X1+ team can get PID tuning integrated.
@@MandicReally Got another Benchy at 80mm^3 on bambu pla. 11:22min
Are you sure you're using the correct fans? The pulse signal may either be the incorrect voltage (5v rather than 3.3v) or the control board may be using an analogue signal rather than pulses.
Haven’t a clue as I didn’t feel like setting up an oscilloscope to test. So far they work well. They clearly set to differing speeds when commanded and have been running for many hours since this video without issue. That is all I can know without a full detailed spec sheet from both manufacturers or a fair bit of time with a scope. Mine is long out of commission so trial and error is where I land.
I think the older revision of the aliexpress hot end is better. It lacks the two extra screws, so heat creep is less likely, and it can be modded to match the same exact height as the stock hotend.
I'm also a fan of the support on the AliExpress nozzle. I have somehow bent 2 stock Hotends during print failures. None since swapping over
I guess I've just been lucky to this point. Fingers crossed it stays that way for me.
Great video! I've got a video on some really unique printing techniques using Bambu Slicer, there's a lot of stuff that a lot of people don't know!
52c chamber temp is fcuking mental!!!!! I print door closed and lid on and never gone above 34c
Great informational video, thanks bro
I thought I had heard somewhere that the nozzle gets damaged as the filament is cooling on the plate and not necessarily in the hot end so I wonder if the copper will erode as aggressively as a tip would
idk ive never taken mine apart and that shits gucci
Very entertaining video! Sure didnt feel like half an hour😂
15:30 Everywhere is misspelled if you care.
HAAA. Too many late nights editing this one I guess. Thanks for pointing it out. I'll be bothered by it forever now. ha
Hi, did you solve the VFA in prints with this machine?
Your bentobox seems to have a different bottom portion with better directing the air presumably. Do you have a link for that modified version?
I remixed the original to my tastes. I don’t really know that it is any better, I just can’t leave anything alone. I don’t think my remix is worth posting though. The air guides are arguably a negative as you want the air to spread through the chamber and not focus (when the bed gets low it could act a bit like auxiliary cooling). I did it just to see if guiding the air would help reduce fan noise. No idea if it was successful.