If you do not want to scratch your build plate go to Harbor Freight and get a Nonmarring Scraper Set. Basically are set of hard plastic chisels that you can use to remove parts from the build plate. You may have to sand the tip to a fine sharp edge and it should work perfectly. I use a very small hammer to tap the chisel and the parts just pop off the plate.
I've been on the fence about adding a large format Resin printer (like the Phenom or Transform) to my trio of CR-10's for prop and costume building. I would LOVE to see you do a video or series of videos on resin printing for cosplay/costume pieces. I'm especially interested in seeing some videos' giving tips and tricks on printing larger parts for glueing together to make larger pieces. I love your work, keep it up!
Great suggestions, I'm definitely doing more Resin builds this year to see if it is a better workflow than FDM and less work on the post processing side. I actually just uploaded the RE-45 build this morning here (th-cam.com/video/LjsMmIjx5Y8/w-d-xo.html) which is a fully resin build. Plus I'm testing out parts with the Phrozen Shuffle XL and Sainsmart Kumitsu printer which are both 8.9" so expect to see more builds and notes about both of those in the near future. Again, thank you so much for watching and all the kind words and feedback, can't wait to see what you think of the next few videos. :)
@@HiroCreations Rather unrelated, but Krazaam mentioned CR-10's. I know you use CR-10's, especially for your pwoer armor build. Is there a specific version you use? There are several model versions and I'm unsure which to consider the most, despite considering them all for months. Also, what's your experience with them been like? I currently use a monoprice maker select v2 and it's uhh... unreliable. I'm hoping for the price of a CR-10 it would be more reliable, and not have several failed prints before finally getting the one good print. Thanks!
@@RADMAN5240 I have few different variants. For the T-51 power armor I used 3x CR-10 S5s printers, and for the moment I can't in good conscience recommend them in the stock version right now because you need a fair number of upgrades to get to decent reliability and good print quality (I am working on a project to convert them into big Core XY printers. I also have a bunch of Ender 3s which are amazing and my current favorites--and they are really easy to mod to have taller print heights (my current record is about 600m build height) I also have the CR-X which is nice for dual color/dual material prints but I don't use that much for cosplay projects. I'm not sure what your comfort level is for fixing and upgrading hardware is but I'd look at either Enders with some sort of extension mod or investigate converting the Monoprice printers into Prusa Bears (and upgrade the build plate volume in the process). Otherwise CR-10s are good but I find the bowden extruder/hotend combo that comes with the printer to be unreliable long term with heavy use and will likely need to be replaced. I'll turn the question on you though, what issues are you having with the Monoprice Maker Selects? I've pretty much seen and fixed every issue that could happen on my pair of them (they are basically new machines with all the adjustments and mods I have made over the last 4 years).
@@HiroCreations Thanks for the reply. I was actually specifically looking at CR-10s because i wanted to buy your power armor stl's and print them, and I can't imagine them being all that small. The CR-10's have a huge volume and I bet it's hard to find other printers that can print those power armor pieces. As for issues, I'm very hands-on. I've done quite a bit to my printer. A microswiss extruder, soldering a proper power supply so my heated bed doesnt cause the whole thing to catch fire, and a 360 degree fan mod to name a few. Maybe it's because my plastic is old, maybe my settings aren't dialed, not sure. I just know that it takes me many, many takes just to get one piece completed. I love 3D printing but dedicating a whole weekend to print a few pieces is just exhausting, needing to baby sit it the whole time. I bought this back in 2016, and I know that modern printers have lots of features (autoleveling is big) that make it easier to print. Every printer review says a printer is great and amazing, but much like a new car it's hard to find reviews that actually talk about the "one year later" experience of owning the printer. Maybe my idea of a 3D printer you can set and forget isn't realistic, but judging by how many people use 3D printers at high production successfully, like you do, I have to think that there has to be a better way than where I'm at now. Sad to hear the CR-10 S5's aren't my dream printer :( lol
I really liked your video, it looks old (2020) but resin printers are new in Brazil. I'm currently having printing issues that I haven't really been able to resolve: - With only one or two prints I'm having to change the FEP, there are small fold marks that cause errors in future prints and that's why I have to change it. One useful thing that informed me was the exposure time of the initial layers that can damage the FEP. I'm using 4 initial layers with 10s exposure that is sticking very well and that maybe then I have to reduce to try to solve but I don't know if that's the problem. During the entire printing process of any piece I can hear the sound (plof) of the piece detaching from the FEP at each layer, I don't know if this is normal (each layer has only 3s), I've tried to reduce it, but I think 3s is the minimum, unless this damages the parts. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it.
All of that sounds pretty normal. If you are getting wrinkles or folds, its likely that the FEP is not tight enough (I personally prefer slightly overtightening my FEP sheets to get consistent results that last a 2-3 months of heavy use).
I had a failure that the FEP draged my print off from the supports leaving the raft and supports on the build plate. what do you think is the possible cause for the failure? I thicker the supports and problem seemed solved, but the thicker supports leave urgly mark on the print surface.
you mean that thicker supports ugly your part or your FEP? If your part: Try slowing the z speed and raising slightly higher to ensure that the parts slowly peel off the fep. Make sure the fep is not too loose or too tight. Too loose and it just raises with the parts and doesn't have releasing force. Too tight and it doesn't flex enough, so it is trying to pull the whole part off at once, like trying to pull on a suction cup vs peeling up the edge. If your fep is showing marks: redo your build plate leveling and make sure you are using a spacer that matches your fep thickness. (eg, if your printer came with a thicker fep, but now you are using a thinner one, your calibration will be off). Try using less pressure when leveling the build plate. Excessive pressure will act like a thinner shim. If your exposure setting is too low, then your supports may be under cured. Also, you may be able to put a small delay before the machine tries to lift a layer (not more exposure time, but it is more time for the cure to set) Lastly, consider how you are supporting your model. If you have ever bought a model and had to take the pieces off of the sprues, then you will know that with 3 spaced out supports, it is hard to remove, but with only 1 or 2 you can flex and rotate the part back and fourth and it will come off much easier.
after breaking my fep film during holidays, i found i could use "baking" plasic from the kitchen, prints still turn out great,. haha :D Now i buy rolls of that stuff.
Its kinda catch 22 with the 1mm fep to the 0.5 honestly there isn't much difference in print detail I've noticed personally the thinner fep has more elasticated pull in the middle so your see sometimes all the outter edge prints being successful and a hole in the middle of just supports whare its been to much pull innthe middle whare as outside prints have less tension pull off the fep but and a big but if your doing the same build plate order design to print parts itll be even tighter around the outter edge and could fail and have a successful center im sure theres a 1.5mm fep ive not tried that yet but its all about that perfect balance
(EDIT) (For those who see this comment, please read the replies) IMO, you're making it way harder on yourself with all this. To keep the resin particles clear of the FEP after each print I just set the loosened build plate down into the vat and run a lowered time full bed UV test burn for about half the time I use for burn in. Run my thumb across the bottom of the vat and the whole thin sheet comes off instantly and leaves the FEP completely decontaminated. Done.
To be fair this video was recorded in the early days of resin printing before the handy clean mode was a standard feature in the firmware of every printer. We've come a long way since then haha.
Gread vid. check out the guy splitting laminating pouches, clearing the glue side up in an oven on baking paper and then flipping glue side down, PET side up to make extremely cheap release films!
The comment about double tapping the thumbs down was a nice touch.
If you do not want to scratch your build plate go to Harbor Freight and get a Nonmarring Scraper Set. Basically are set of hard plastic chisels that you can use to remove parts from the build plate. You may have to sand the tip to a fine sharp edge and it should work perfectly. I use a very small hammer to tap the chisel and the parts just pop off the plate.
Great call, I will have to try that. Certainly simplier than the spring loaded build plate mod I have open in Fusion 360 for CNC machining.
I've been on the fence about adding a large format Resin printer (like the Phenom or Transform) to my trio of CR-10's for prop and costume building. I would LOVE to see you do a video or series of videos on resin printing for cosplay/costume pieces. I'm especially interested in seeing some videos' giving tips and tricks on printing larger parts for glueing together to make larger pieces. I love your work, keep it up!
Great suggestions, I'm definitely doing more Resin builds this year to see if it is a better workflow than FDM and less work on the post processing side. I actually just uploaded the RE-45 build this morning here (th-cam.com/video/LjsMmIjx5Y8/w-d-xo.html) which is a fully resin build.
Plus I'm testing out parts with the Phrozen Shuffle XL and Sainsmart Kumitsu printer which are both 8.9" so expect to see more builds and notes about both of those in the near future.
Again, thank you so much for watching and all the kind words and feedback, can't wait to see what you think of the next few videos. :)
@@HiroCreations Rather unrelated, but Krazaam mentioned CR-10's. I know you use CR-10's, especially for your pwoer armor build. Is there a specific version you use? There are several model versions and I'm unsure which to consider the most, despite considering them all for months. Also, what's your experience with them been like? I currently use a monoprice maker select v2 and it's uhh... unreliable. I'm hoping for the price of a CR-10 it would be more reliable, and not have several failed prints before finally getting the one good print. Thanks!
@@RADMAN5240 I have few different variants.
For the T-51 power armor I used 3x CR-10 S5s printers, and for the moment I can't in good conscience recommend them in the stock version right now because you need a fair number of upgrades to get to decent reliability and good print quality (I am working on a project to convert them into big Core XY printers.
I also have a bunch of Ender 3s which are amazing and my current favorites--and they are really easy to mod to have taller print heights (my current record is about 600m build height)
I also have the CR-X which is nice for dual color/dual material prints but I don't use that much for cosplay projects.
I'm not sure what your comfort level is for fixing and upgrading hardware is but I'd look at either Enders with some sort of extension mod or investigate converting the Monoprice printers into Prusa Bears (and upgrade the build plate volume in the process).
Otherwise CR-10s are good but I find the bowden extruder/hotend combo that comes with the printer to be unreliable long term with heavy use and will likely need to be replaced.
I'll turn the question on you though, what issues are you having with the Monoprice Maker Selects? I've pretty much seen and fixed every issue that could happen on my pair of them (they are basically new machines with all the adjustments and mods I have made over the last 4 years).
@@HiroCreations Thanks for the reply. I was actually specifically looking at CR-10s because i wanted to buy your power armor stl's and print them, and I can't imagine them being all that small. The CR-10's have a huge volume and I bet it's hard to find other printers that can print those power armor pieces.
As for issues, I'm very hands-on. I've done quite a bit to my printer. A microswiss extruder, soldering a proper power supply so my heated bed doesnt cause the whole thing to catch fire, and a 360 degree fan mod to name a few. Maybe it's because my plastic is old, maybe my settings aren't dialed, not sure. I just know that it takes me many, many takes just to get one piece completed. I love 3D printing but dedicating a whole weekend to print a few pieces is just exhausting, needing to baby sit it the whole time. I bought this back in 2016, and I know that modern printers have lots of features (autoleveling is big) that make it easier to print.
Every printer review says a printer is great and amazing, but much like a new car it's hard to find reviews that actually talk about the "one year later" experience of owning the printer. Maybe my idea of a 3D printer you can set and forget isn't realistic, but judging by how many people use 3D printers at high production successfully, like you do, I have to think that there has to be a better way than where I'm at now.
Sad to hear the CR-10 S5's aren't my dream printer :( lol
I really liked your video, it looks old (2020) but resin printers are new in Brazil. I'm currently having printing issues that I haven't really been able to resolve:
- With only one or two prints I'm having to change the FEP, there are small fold marks that cause errors in future prints and that's why I have to change it.
One useful thing that informed me was the exposure time of the initial layers that can damage the FEP. I'm using 4 initial layers with 10s exposure that is sticking very well and that maybe then I have to reduce to try to solve but I don't know if that's the problem.
During the entire printing process of any piece I can hear the sound (plof) of the piece detaching from the FEP at each layer, I don't know if this is normal (each layer has only 3s), I've tried to reduce it, but I think 3s is the minimum, unless this damages the parts. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it.
All of that sounds pretty normal. If you are getting wrinkles or folds, its likely that the FEP is not tight enough (I personally prefer slightly overtightening my FEP sheets to get consistent results that last a 2-3 months of heavy use).
@@HiroCreations Thank you very much for the answers and help. It was great to receive help from those who already have experience.
I had a failure that the FEP draged my print off from the supports leaving the raft and supports on the build plate. what do you think is the possible cause for the failure? I thicker the supports and problem seemed solved, but the thicker supports leave urgly mark on the print surface.
you mean that thicker supports ugly your part or your FEP?
If your part: Try slowing the z speed and raising slightly higher to ensure that the parts slowly peel off the fep. Make sure the fep is not too loose or too tight. Too loose and it just raises with the parts and doesn't have releasing force. Too tight and it doesn't flex enough, so it is trying to pull the whole part off at once, like trying to pull on a suction cup vs peeling up the edge.
If your fep is showing marks: redo your build plate leveling and make sure you are using a spacer that matches your fep thickness. (eg, if your printer came with a thicker fep, but now you are using a thinner one, your calibration will be off). Try using less pressure when leveling the build plate. Excessive pressure will act like a thinner shim.
If your exposure setting is too low, then your supports may be under cured. Also, you may be able to put a small delay before the machine tries to lift a layer (not more exposure time, but it is more time for the cure to set)
Lastly, consider how you are supporting your model. If you have ever bought a model and had to take the pieces off of the sprues, then you will know that with 3 spaced out supports, it is hard to remove, but with only 1 or 2 you can flex and rotate the part back and fourth and it will come off much easier.
@@andrewstambaugh240 I keep the support connections small, but add more of them.
after breaking my fep film during holidays, i found i could use "baking" plasic from the kitchen, prints still turn out great,. haha :D Now i buy rolls of that stuff.
Link for that stuff please.... Thanks...
Its kinda catch 22 with the 1mm fep to the 0.5 honestly there isn't much difference in print detail I've noticed personally the thinner fep has more elasticated pull in the middle so your see sometimes all the outter edge prints being successful and a hole in the middle of just supports whare its been to much pull innthe middle whare as outside prints have less tension pull off the fep but and a big but if your doing the same build plate order design to print parts itll be even tighter around the outter edge and could fail and have a successful center im sure theres a 1.5mm fep ive not tried that yet but its all about that perfect balance
(EDIT) (For those who see this comment, please read the replies)
IMO, you're making it way harder on yourself with all this. To keep the resin particles clear of the FEP after each print I just set the loosened build plate down into the vat and run a lowered time full bed UV test burn for about half the time I use for burn in. Run my thumb across the bottom of the vat and the whole thin sheet comes off instantly and leaves the FEP completely decontaminated. Done.
To be fair this video was recorded in the early days of resin printing before the handy clean mode was a standard feature in the firmware of every printer. We've come a long way since then haha.
eyyy is that sagrada familia at 14:03?
It is! I want that STL! Not sure where he found it... If you are reading... where did you find that?
Gread vid. check out the guy splitting laminating pouches, clearing the glue side up in an oven on baking paper and then flipping glue side down, PET side up to make extremely cheap release films!