The Best (& Worst) Exposure Tests for Resin 3D Printing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
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Which are the best & worst exposure tests for resin 3D printing? Let's find out!
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0:01 - Intro
1:20 - What is exposure?
2:05 - Why exposure matters
4:27 - XP2 Validation Matrix - github.com/Photonsters/Resin-...
5:48 - Dennys Wang Thicker Validation Matrix - cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vario...
6:15 - Dennys Wang Exposure Test v2 - cults3d.com/en/3d-model/vario...
6:52 - Phrozen XP Finder - drive.google.com/drive/folder...
8:01 - Photocentric XY Full Test - drive.google.com/file/d/1RD38...
9:15 - Matterhackers Resin Test Tile - www.matterhackers.com/store/l...
10:12 - Flat Test Recap
11:02 - SirayaTech Test Model - siraya.tech/pages/siraya-tech...
11:47 - 3D Resin Solutions Chip Test - www.3dresinsolutions.com/page...
12:40 - 3D Resin Solutions Starship Test - www.3dresinsolutions.com/page...
13:37 - Cones of Calibration (Tableflip Foundry) - www.tableflipfoundry.com/
15:16 - Ameralabs Town - ameralabs.com/blog/town-calib...
16:16 - Slicer Supports Pull Test Geometry - www.thingiverse.com/thing:430...
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Which exposure test is your go-to?
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thank you for this... I just bought an Elegoo Saturn and water washable elegoo resin... I've done a lot of FDM printing but this is my first time with resin. appreciate the effort in your video.
Cones of calibration, hands down.
I use the Resin XP2 - and your 2 comparison examples are actually rather easy to read / decide which one is better - when you held them atop each other, the upper one had way less clogged grooves and less elephant feet at the contact points.
There are no real "support" tests. If supports wor, of not, always depends on the ratio of supports vs. the weight and suction forces of a model.
There will always be models that won't print with the pre-supports. I currently have a whole KS project that is more or less ruined by bad supports and bad actual file quality - the models look good (on the surface), but don't print well due to issues with the files themselves. You're fine, if you over-expose. a tuned printer won't print the minis well.
sirayas best test , cones makes you over expose and siraya showed it
I correct myself, actually now prefer the Dennys Wang test-shorter time than the Cones, and Siraya for fine tuning afterwards :)
Great video! We never thought that our town guide is too complicated. It's good to know that it is to some. We'll definitely update it to add some simplified instructions on how to identify over-exposure or under-exposure quickly. Thanks for this awesome showdown.
I'd MUCH rather prefer you add in all of the extra details the way you did! Yours was the only guide that got so in-depth, and it was really impressive to me. Even if it wasn't made for me, I could tell it was made for a different audience, while still being really valuable for me.
Thank you for sharing and for your test!
Your main test is great for having such detail info available and really highlighting the how far do you want to go factor. (I bet N-scale people love your test)
I suggest making a "quick test" version that is intentionally designed for quick eye inspection pass fail sequences.
I just ran my first 3D print ever using the AmeraLabs town model. Brought it into Lychee, applied the default settings for the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and their ABS-like resin, and exported the Chitubox file. Printed perfectly to my eye, first try. Astonishing detail.
Your guide fails to consider the possibility of bridge hanging on the cabities over the chesboard, which is a 5mm bridge and for some layer thikness can look like "melted". Also I prefer to have a fully in depth guide like yours that helps to understand the reasons behind everything, eventhought I may not have agancy over my resin biscosity
My kingdom to somebody who can print that fifth row of columns without them becoming spider webby 🧐
Holy balls... this video is amazing. I wasn't even aware of some of these calibration prints. Definitely trying out that Cones of Calibration test!
Hey Uncle Jessy! Let me know if you give them a try! I'd love to hear your feedback! My team and I worked really hard on them and would love to know how they go for you.
They didn't work for me unfortunately, I got very random results.
However, I think my FEP was too tight so having since replaced it, I may try again
@@JimmiWazEre I tried to reply to this 2 times, and for some reason it didn't go through. Maybe because I tried to add our discord link.
I would love to help you troubleshoot this. The cones are an indicator of mechanical hold for supports. There are many variables that can affect that mechanical function. Fep wear and condition definitely is one of those, as well as lift speeds. This is why vroom settings can affect the outcome as they can greatly increase torque on the contact points for the supports.
You can find a link to our discord on our website listed in the details on the video. If you're still having any issues hop on over and lets have a look.
@@TableFlipFoundry I am having trouble with the cones of calibration test. The top cones are not printing on either side at all.
@@JonathanRenfrogamer Im happy to help you take a look, but that would indicate low exposure.
Hahahaha, thank you for testing, sorry for my lack of explanation.
It simply fail or success print.
The point is, use the lowest exposure to successfully print the model with all the column connect to the top part, to achieve the lowest exposure you can use to print your model so you can get the best detail, and hopefully less fail.
So it can help beginner to have success print and gain confidence, rather than confuse to decide which are the best print result from comparing too much exposure.
I design it based on printing with many object shape and sizes from minis to mechanical part and it can survive minimal 0.3mm support tip as anchor and 0.1mm support for fine detail.
I have to agree, many people tell me they also like to use it to check bed level, so i guess 1 stone 2 birds? LOL
I know I'm late but if you are not sure what to look for on a test, FAIL IT ON PURPOSE a couple of times and see what happens.
Print one underexposed by quite a bit and print one that is overexposed quite a bit. This should exaggerate the effects for each problem and now you know what to look for.
And the great thing about this is that you only need to do this once for each kind of test since your not really dialing your printer, just understanding what a test is looking for.
The Denny’s Wang test is basically you print, decrease time and keep doing that until it fails. Once you hit the failing point, you just go back to the previous print time and use that. Pretty simple and straightforward. Failures also include bent horizontal parts.
Hahahaha simple and better explanation than mine
I was surprised he couldn't explain the test. Denny's video explained it perfectly and it is more straight forward than any of the other tests which almost entirely rely on personal preference. Denny's prints are glorious too, so I trust the guy's test more than any other's. It's my Resin Benchy.
Do I have to illuminate the calibration test with UV light after printing, like any other print, or would that falsify the result?
Such a fantastic breakdown. Some people don't realize how SUPER important this topic is.
This video was a GODSEND. I’ve been struggling with a new bottle of resin, and I’d all but given up. This gives me a new test I can try out as well as the instructions to go with it, so I can continue benchmarking and dialing in my new resin. Thanks!!!
I love the Cones of Calibration test. It was easiest to read and really helped me fine tune my settings. I just have to remember to run this test with every resin I have because they all behave a little different.
I had the same experience! Thanks for sharing :)
Hey! Thanks so much Lonewind! We worked really hard on it. I am so happy all that effort is helpful to you!
Thank you for this. One of the best resin 3d videos of any category I have seen. Not to mention all the links and time stamps. Dude you rock!
This is a great video! Thanks for the help with the calibration tests. I love the Cones and Starship Test - thanks for doing this. I still remember your early youtubes on miniature with FDM
That's great Danny, very useful overiew. I was hoping you'd end the video with your top 3 though, now I have to watch it again to see if I can pick them out!
Oooh, Thanks for the breakdown Danny. I've always used the xp 2. And having your breakdown of other ones i've tried and a lot i've never seen was really helpful.
The video we need.
The comment I appreciate
I've never 3D printed a thing in my life, so this was super helpful. Love the Starship Test.
Thanks for including all the links. Helps us to make our own decisions.
One step closer to better prints and less hassle!
Greetings, I'm fairly new to 3D printing and I have tried the flat test, but I appreciate the information provided and the different options you've provided. I will be trying a couple of these...
Appreciate the time you took to walk through these. I’m very familiar with fdm but have a Saturn 2 on the way for resin.
Nice ! I needed to see this type of stuff , so now when I go to print I won't get broken fep and resin on my screen . Thank you for helping me understand these tests .
I have watched and re-watched this so many times. Wish I could give it more than one like :) Thanks!
Thx so much. I waited on your video before trying one of these test and a lot of them I didn’t even knew exist.
I've been doing my calibration with the Ameratown, and agree that it can be hard to read. I'll probably switch over to the cones for the next time I need to calibrate. Thanks for compiling all this info, and for such thorough explanation!
The Dennys Wang Exposure Calibration test works similar to the Cones of Calibration test. Basically, the small supports either hold the square, uniformly, or it fails (by separating off any of the small supports) depending on your layer settings. That's it. That's the test.
Yup.. plus, it prints faster because it's "flatter" and uses less resin.
That sounds... NSFW!
Dayum... You give the simplest explanation than me.
LOL...
So underexposure fails to uniformly support the square. But how do you know if you're over exposed?
@@ElderlyJoeDuffy Oh, you just tune it down till it fails, you want to be a the limit right when you get a successful print.
That starship test looks awesome; there’s so much functionality there! Definitely trying some of these out, nice work on the comprehensive video!
Thanks Andrew! I agree about the Starship test. That is one of the best crafted and thought-through tests on this list for sure.
Wow, dude, I remember watching your vids for mini printing like 3 years ago and seeing so much potential! You've blown up! congratulations and God bless you!
Thanks Danny! Always always outstanding content =)
Another fantastic educational video. Thank you!
Thank you! This is very helpful for a beginner like me! 👍🏻
Great video. Thanks for all the info
Thank you for making this video, your videos are super helpful and really informative 😊
Thanks. I've been needing something better than the Siraya tech. I could print everything I supported fine, but every presupported model would detach and fail until added several seconds exposure time.
The Cones of calibration seems like such an easy thing to glance at and know which way to move. Thanks for making this comparison. You are a real credit to the community.
Dude I have missed your videos tremendously!!!!
Thank you so much for this explanation. I just ordered my first resin 3D printer and I had no idea where to start with calibrating it. This info will be a big help.
I also ordered my first resin 3D printer, the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra.
Amazing video man. Got a subscription outta me ❤
Best explanation I've found on TH-cam. This was so well done. I hit the big red button.
What big red button? The subscribe button can be black or white, not red! #kindasus
glad i found this, i get my saturn 8k on wed and have been trying to find a good video on exposure tests
Great video! I bought an Anycubic Photon a couple of years ago, and can't even get the default test to print completely, let alone successfully. So, I set it aside to try again later. Well, it's now later, so I'm looking at it again. I'll take your explanation here as a starting point of what to try and begin again. Minis is my plan, if I can get this thing to print.
dennys wang's exposure tester is essentially a "supports" test. So, all you really need is to print the XP2 validation matrix alongside this exposure tester. Both are low profile and hence, prints fast, and does not take up much resin. Not a fan of overly complicated "tall" tests. I find that they take longer than necessary to print, and waste too much resin.
Made my first resin print this week so juiced right now, thanks for the tips Danny!
Awesome! Keep the momentum going :)
@@3DPrintedTabletop thank you so much, will do
Congratulations on your first prints!!!
@@TableFlipFoundry Thanks!
So helpful! Thank you!
I just got into printing I get the feeling this is going to be very helpful once I get a better funnel and don’t spill my resin all over the floor lol. I’ll have to try some of these tomorrow when I get more resin.
Pretty late but thanks a lot for this video. I thought that the XP2 calibration test might be too simple, akin to the XYZ calibration cube for FDM printers. A good place to start as a noob but not representative of a real world print.
I am glad to hear you pointed out the problems with interpreting the results of the other prints since it could be affected by many factors and lead to use noobs doing down a rabbit hole.
Thanks I’m just starting this all helps
This is an excellent video and it brings me immeasurable sadness that it doesn't have more views...
myself i still print a small xyz cube hollowed at an angle with supports. dial in the base then dial in the normal exposure sorted. the siraya cube is good but its a lattice cube and cant test for suction apart from the pull effect when releasing from the fep. :)
thanks for the video will be handy to post about my groups and let the users choose the one they want to use.
Dont forget that the room temperature has a great impact on the exposing time. Lowering room temp means exposing time needs to go up.
Great point!
and light delay, to account for the viscosity
Wow, didn't realize this, thanks.
DUDE THIS IS AMAZING!!! Adding this to videos we recommend for beginners! Heck I learned a ton myself! Great rundown Danny!
Thank you, Grant! I learned a lot while making it too. Grateful it’s helping others as well :)
Excellent and very helpful video. Quite frankly I have been 3D printing for over a year now and am only feeling ready to play with this now. Maybe I should have done it sooner but feeling you have to do things like this when you first get your printer really dampens the excitement of 3D printing. I just wanted to start printing. I didn't want to spend weeks learning all the ins and outs and calibrating the printer. I am actually glad I did just dive in and start printing. I got quite a few failed prints but I learned a lot while still getting minis for my table. Now, I am finally ready to get more serious about it and play with this. If I knew someone who was getting started, I would recommend they just start printing and playing, do this stuff later once they have had a little fun and experience with their printer.
Failing prints isn't fun (having watched so many fdm people struggle in the beginning)
My resin experience was much better. I did 3-4 siraya exposure tests until i started getting noticeable flaws (but no total part failures), then backed off a little and started printing safer minis.
If I was teaching someone new, I'd preface that a 'calibration test' is _designed to push your machine to fail,_ but gets you to settings succeed real prints quickly. So think of it as part of initially setting up the machine, bolt this here, put that there, make sure settings are ok.
Then recommend they do the cones of calibration for 1-4 prints to quickly get a rough exposure calibration.
After that, suggest it's preferred to print a few _higher detail support-free minis,_ so they have something almost impossible to fail but also get to see how nice a resin printer is vs their friend's fdm quality
(not knocking, but we bought resin printers for a reason, right?)
That should set them up well to dive into more risky parts and already have taught them how to handle if they do get some failures.
I don't agree. You say that people should just start printing right away, but the fails will be disappointing, and that can also take away from the excitement.
Thank you so much for doing this. I knew about half of those tests but the other half are new to me. Downloaded the 3DRS and Tableflip Foundry tests as those look interesting. So far my favorite has been the SirayaTech. Will see how these compare. Agree the Towns and XPS are somewhat difficult to interpret.
My pleasure!
Great video. I am printing with Elegoo 8k and making small parts (6mm x 5mm x13-20mm high ) I am getting 0.35mm-0.4m "foot" all the way round the base on my prints this foot is about 0.6mm
high....any advice would really help out. using Conjure rigid in black. Thank you.
My 1st Calibration print was the XP2 matrix, my eye sight isn't so good these days and i found this test difficult to read, it also allowed me to run several levels beyond optimal and get what appears to be a result.
I then printed a ROOK Test piece and a baby Yoda! both turned out nice.
I had issues trying to print my own projects, probably supports!
i found TableFlip Foundry via a recording of a live stream about supports (i don't print minis so understanding support for anything but is limited)
Next i tried the Cones of Calibration, this left me with no doubt that i am about there. As luck would have it, it showed same setting as XP2 test but XP2 was luck really plus i had to get second opinions.
Next i did the Ameralabs test, i wasn't going to be adjusting setting from this as such. Mainly i wanted to see the result. It printed well at my exposure but i feel if i were trying to set up from this test i would struggle. It was great to see the print as it should be and to see my print that i am confident is good.
My go to is the Cones of Calibration, at my current exposure i got 5 full cones of success and 2 half cones on the fail. taking my exposure down by point 2 left me with 2 success cones, a test with the wang test at point 4 under my cones left me with a fail one square on the build and 1 square on the fep!
Oh my god, the pun with the Patreon "supports" fucking killed me. Well delivered, too! I'm in tears from laughing!
Thanks for the video. Had a saturn 2 for 2 years and hasnt been great experience. Finally was able to get it to print decently but wanted to move to bigger higher detail stuff. Do to that i started over to fine tune my printer and im about to hire someone cause im at my breaking point lol
Great video!
Great video and thank you so much for the recommendations. One technical thing, your camera was focused on your printer rather than you. I am sure you lready know but a bit of sharpening in post will help with this.
Hey man I personally find the Armera lab calibration to be the best since you get the most accurate information as well as multiple failure detection the only issue i fond with your printing was that you actually overexposed your print by having all 5 pillars print out (you can see this in the checkerboards as well) you are supposed to get at least 4 pillars standing (the 4th row can be slightly limp) and the 5th is an over exposure indicator
but overall good video.
Know what I'd like to see, though I know this probably wouldn't make for a very useful test print, would be one that could double as a useful greeble. For those of you that might not know, a 'greeble' is a model builder term for any interesting bit of detail you can add to a model build to make it look more interesting. An example would be, if you make a building for a sci-fi table-top game, but add something like a vent or a control panel to the side to make it look more interesting. The bit you add is a greeble.
I noticed that some of the test prints you showed (especially the flat ones) could almost double as a greeble, but they all seemed to have things like logos or big obvious text that make it clear it's just a test print. It would be neat to design a few test prints, perhaps a few that each test one or two different things, that could also pass as greebles. That way, you could constantly check your printer AND produce parts for a build.
Yeah, or scatter. Something like a sci-fi hatch or a fantasy crate, etc. Even a status marker set would be a good idea. (of course, then parties will end up getting status effects put on them so the GM can show off his new printer tests!)
A chest of loot could make for small details, and furniture could push the support tests. Lamps posts would also be a nice scatter. Campfire with fish hanging from strings on a drying rack?
An evergreen tree could really contain a lot of deep testing. Did these needles print & stay distinct or lump together? (could be printed as 2 halves if that made the test better, then you can glue the halves together after).
This is exactly my standings on these tests as well. The cones has become my recommendation when helping people out as it's so much simpler to understand the results. Flat tests make you feel like you're playing one of those 'spot the difference between these 2 pictures' games. While some people can get good results out of them I've seen so many people say they've dialed in their resin with the XP2 and are using very wrong settings because they've read it wrong, or have a setting on that's throwing off the results(AA or transition layers for example)
Bingo! Glad to see someone else had the same experience. Thanks for the comment!
A very understated issue with printer settings is that it is affected by temperature and humidity. There is too much focus on just the resin and printer and it leads people to think they can just find a settings spreadsheet and blindly follow that. We are dealing with chemistry here and that is affected by more than just the materials and time. I rarely ever hear people talk about temperature or humidity.
i'm having issues with mine. where some cones on the failure show, but at the same time, barely any of the success cones are made well enough to connect. is there anything else that i should edit besides exposure time?
Thanks for the great video. I've tried a couple of those from the list before. The cones of calibration seemed like a great and easy to understand concept, but unfortunately the results I was getting were super inconsistent and weird. Sometimes upping the exposure actually produced reverse results of what is expected (the success side failing) and vice versa.... On some resins it worked better and more consistent with the expected, but on others it was just mostly random success / fail. I tried tweaking other parameters besides the exposure time to see if those made any difference, and also made sure the the build platform was perfectly level and the fep sheet perfectly clear, but in my experience with some resins - this concept is just not applicable, since the results are very random and unpredictable. I will try the starship test from your list, looks really interesting and easier to interpret, at least for me.... btw, currently I am using Elegoo Saturn, but I plan switching to Phrozen Mighty 8k relatively soon.
Me too! other models are consistent with my exposure times but somehow the cones of calibration is not even close to that. It tends to never print the leftmost side, but even so other models print really good with that exposure
You sir are a gentleman, People like you are worth their weight in platinum.
Why so respectful?!
Great video. I'm glad you like our Starship :-)
It's a wonderful test. Very creative. Thanks for putting that and the guide together!
How to better compare flat tests: place a sheet of white paper on them and trace on their surface with a graphite pencil or basic soft pencil, like you would do with a coin. Whichever looks sharpest is the best.
Hey Man! Awesome review, thanks a lot. I was wondering where I can buy that Centipede/Wormlike creature you have there? is there any patreon or something like that?
If you have a Phrozen sonic 4k mini Dennys Wang's TH-cam channel is a must. 3D printed Tabletop is also also a must.
I agree - his clinical approach is a bit hard for me to get through in one sitting, but is an incredible source of information.
15:45 IIRC viscosity in resins is linked closely with temperature, so particularly if you're using a completely new resin (from a different manufacturer, or trying a water washable resin or one that's supposed to produce more flexible or harder prints or something), it *might* indicate that it could benefit from being a few degrees warmer than you're accustomed to.
Great hypothesis. It’s closer than anything I considered!
@@3DPrintedTabletop i have a heat pad for my resin bottles. never print at less than 25C, and pre-warm the printers with a heater as well. absolutely critical to using fine supports successfully.
For me the exposure test of UV tools is the first part, it's a flat test but it does a range of different exposure times. Most of the tests in the video need to be in the proper exposure time range, so if you have a total unknown resin you didn't know where to start. Con: this test is a little bit difficult to set-up. If i have te proper range i still proof the settings with some of the tests from the video, didn't have a favorite.
the ameralabs test would be good for the common person for resin tests if say you think you got a bad batch. The anycubic R_E_R_F test tho is good for testing supports as well.
what causes warping and bending/ floppy is it not enough support temperature?
Great video! I just got an Anycubic 6k 2 weeks ago and yeah, I need help cause all my prints are not good and I don't know why
My favorite calibration test: a humble 10mmx10mmx10mm cube. (Often set to 5mm height to save time)
It's so simple to measure with calipers and understand what you need to do to the exposure. After that is dialed in the cones of calibration to test tensile strength and that tells me how many and what size of support I need.
Please expand on how you’d interpret the cube dimensions to then alter exposure. Then also for the comment on how the Cones tells you information about support size and number ! I’ve yet to find info on those details. Thanks
@@zacharytilden7440 In the case of the cube if you measure it with calipers and it's smaller than 10x10 on the x and y then you're under exposing and need to increase your exposure time. If it's larger than 10x10 then you're over exposing and need to bring the time down. In other words, the more the resin gets exposed, the more it blooms out. If you ever print directly on the build plate, you can see an example of this with how the first burn in layers are typically much larger than the normal layers.
Using this method of testing, you can also use the cube to calibrate the scale compensation setting so printing on the build plate while remaining dimensionally accurate is possible. I wouldn't suggest printing non-test models on the build plate normally unless you have a magnetic build surface so it is easy to remove.
After you dial the cube in to be dimensionally accurate, the cones are kind of like a test on what your supports might do depending on the resin you're using. Some resins perform differently than others and you might need larger supports or more supports to be able to stay attached due to tensile strength.
Thanks I have recently started 3d printing my likeness sculpts and I have 70-80 % successful rate ..failure are mostly lack of adhesion to build palate
Do those Kickstarter minis remind anyone else of neo pets or is it just me I don’t even play D&D but they’re so freaking cute I kind of need them
That's really funny you say that because the artist loves Neo Pets and the familiars were definitely inspired by it!
For the Starship, I did a sweep of exposures and I can't get the super small gears near the back to come out as sharp as yours. Is this because your printer is better, or I still need to play with my settings? I have Elegoo Jupiter (51um pixel size) with Thermal VatBand to regulate it at 25C.
Have you ever printed minis from Lost Kingdom Miniatures? I'm trying to print their supported models with a SM4K with aquagray 4k, but medium models( like wolves or similar) tend to fail...
_Major_ respect for the Super Metroid poster.
Gread vid!
Hey, can you please share me Resin setting of 8K Aqua-Grey resin for Sonic Mini 8k?
I saw your previous video where you compared 8k and 4k resins, where you said you had tested the resin settings a lot to find a perfect setting. It would save me a whole day of finding perfect exposure.
Thank you for your videos and your time.
I noticed when you combine the table flip foundry and the starship on one print with the same exposure setting, I noticed that the table flip foundry wants a lower exposure setting and the starship wants a little more. When I printed the table flip foundry with little of the failure side as possible and all on the success side the starship had no small hammers printed which conflicts with the starship's guide where they say all 11 including the small hammers should print. I will test with a couple Arch Vilnian Games and Heros Infinite presupported models to confirm which test is the more appropriate.
Did you ever further test this? I sorta noticed the same, it feels like the cones want a lower exposure time than some of the other test models?
@@adamblak7105 I messaged the guy who did the table flip Foundary test and he said they should have the same result so I changed resin and printer and they had a similar result. I stopped using the loctite onyx resin and I upgraded printers. I never investigated the issue further.
I got some Anycubic Crafstman White resin and I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why my prints keep coming off the bed. I've stuck my printer in a tiny room with a space heater to keep temperature at about 85 F but even then on prints with a .9m wall they seem to break off? The resin might just be too brittle TBH. So it's been a juggling act of keeping prints lightweight and not sticking to the bed.
I'm curious what your opinion is of the Anycubic R.E.R.F test print.
Came here after a total failure of the Cones (Mono X 6k + Resione M58 using their suggested settings). Off to try some flat prints for a sanity check. In the meantime ... subbed!
Hi, member of the Tableflipfoundry team here. Would you describe your issue with the cones? We do also have a discord server for all troubleshooting and provide advice to get you started. The link is posted above and on our website.
@@crazmadsci3806 I'm pretty sure it was entirely with the lift/retract speed given by Resione. They suggested 3 and 4 mm/s. I knocked those down to 2 and 3 and got some clean 2d prints. I have the cones and the spaceship going right now.
I'll also say that I used the cones for the Anycubic basic model resin and I was very happy with the results. Very easy to see and haven't had a problem with that since using it
@@Grstearns yes we are aware that vroom settings or fast lift speeds are an area of trouble with the cones. We are currently in development of an improved test that you can test with vroom speeds. For the test I've seen most people have success with 1mm/s or 60mm/min.
Which test would you recommend to combat horizontal lines? Keep getting bad lines, I’m figuring it’s my poor support knowledge. I just auto support and add a few here and there
Thank you so much, I am also, a 3D printing DM
nice, just got the same printer working
hi 3D printed table top hopefully u see this...... just wondering im looking into 3d prinitng will i need ventilation for pla printers?
Cones of Calibration is definitely mini prints ONLY, validated this with 25-30C temp resin and "overexposed" according to CoC. Anything over 250g would fail with heavy supports, upping exposure time despite working on other printers etc.
Warhammer minis it works great.
i tried the XP2 Validation Matrix and it came out alright, except a bit bent... does anyone know why that is?
Is there also a tester to find the correct peel speed settings? I use cones of calibration but at the outer Regions it is pass in the center always something wrong with stickig Layer onto Layer. Even with new fpa sehet with tension 300Hz
I am using my printer manufacturer's resin, with my manufacturer's print settings... And I still needed to adjust the exposure time
I just found this video, so please excuse my late comment. How does the Anycubic RERF (Resin Exposure Range Finder) compare to these tests?
Thanks for the info. I bought the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 4K. One of the pictures shows printing time drastically reduced from previous model and that it can print models with a height of 12cm in about 2.4 hours. Concerning the print time, this IS NOT TRUE. My models are from LOOT and are already setup. I also use Lychee to check for errors. A 72mm (7.2cm) figurine takes over 10 hours. A tiny model takes around 5 hours. It would take over a year to print the models I have. I am so frustrated. I am going to try the Cones of Calibration.
Hi.
What slicer are talking about, 2 min into the video?
//Daniel
Sweden
Hey, I'm curious about something. Whenever I try to do the matrix test the details don't come through very well and the whole that is kind of pancake smooshed flat. How do I fix this?
What’s a good calibration test for large models?
hi i liked your video to much.can you send me the best settings of bluecast X ONE resin on SM8K plz
I see a lot of videos on exposure time, and not a lot of UV power, I know some resins make recommendations on this, but they also recommend exposure time, wouldn't it make a big difference as well?
One question, would it be better to start with a baseline that someone has set on that specific printer model or sort of follow the instructions on the resin itself?
I think it’s always better to start with a baseline if you’ve seen a physical print of it. If no baselines online, start with the resin itself.