MISTAKES I made when I started resin 3d printing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- We dive into 14 mistakes you could make while 3d printing.
Avoid these for success.
Are there any other mistakes that you made?
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Printer: Creality Halot One
Resin: Elegoo ABS like
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Creality Halot One
Elegoo ABS Like Resin
Resin Setting:
Initial Exposure: 38s
Exposure Time: 3.3s
Motor Speed: 3mm/s
Turn Off Delay: 1s
Rising Height: 6-8mm
Bottom Exp Layers: 9
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Track: Ikson - Focus [Official]
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00:00 Intro
00:20 Exposure Calibration
01:28 Updating Firmware
01:59 Printing Too Fast
02:53 Not Enough Resin
03:31 Wasting Time Saving Misprints
04:25 Wrong Settings on Wash and Cure
04:53 Not Subscribing
05:11 Too Many Patreons
06:10 Overloading Build Plate
07:45 Not Varying Model Placement
08:44 Not Securing Build Plate
09:20 Safety First
10:10 Trying New Resin
10:31 Thinking it’ll be easy
#3dprinting #creality #resin #resinprinting #miniaturepainting - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I hope my mistakes have been helpful for your 3d printing journey.
Click here to watch me print a GW Battleforce Box:
th-cam.com/video/PCBCpDjjg8A/w-d-xo.html
I’m wanting to get back into printing, even though I haven’t had much run time other than 1 print that only printed 3 out of 4 wheels and then my fap broke because I used the spatula to get the print off I learned not to do that and then my lcd I thought went out so I replaced it and it did the same thing no picture so I put it in my storage but if it’s a software issue 🤦🏽♂️ with I hope it is something like that then I can start printing 1/24 car parts for my model kits
Regarding failed prints. Depending on how complete they are and the Games you are playing, they can be casualties . Say an arm gets blown off or leg gets cut clean through with a sword. You finally get to use that blood red paint you have been saving. You get the idea. Melt a few as well everyone uses that dam fireball anyways!!!
That's actually quite clever. I've kept most of my fails that are at least 50% intact, so I'll look at making some objective markers and the like. Thanks Tom!
@@Habes welcome and keep up the great work
That’s BRILLIANT 😅❤ How did I not think of this
yeah, im soon getting into printing and im not even scared of failiures cause i think they can get very decent terrain pieces or basing material.
also if you are wargaming you are able to exchange your misprint with the decent print to show that it is down.
imagine a full tanke beeing exchanged with a broken tank and then just get a LED candle with some cotton to make a smoke&burn effect.
@@deformiertergolfball4847 more than Awesome....that is great thinking!!
Tip: You don't have to put your resin back in the bottle every session. You can leave it in there for days, weeks. This way you won't be tempted to try cleaning your FEP and thus wearing it/scratching it. Also, paper towels are bad for cleaning the FEP, if you must clean it then get the resin out (large 250ml syringe) then soak up for rinse out the remaining with IPA and then gently clean the film with a clean microfiber cloth, NOT paper towels. Paper towels can leave it cloudy, just pushes the resin all over and you're left with a cloudy FEP. The microfibers are key to sucking up that cloudiness and leaving it clear!
I need to invest in those microfiber cloths 👍
Makes me wonder whether cotton cloth could do the same. I'm quite a lot into woodworking too and we use cotton cloth with our oils, as paper towels can leave unwanted scratches on a fine sanded surface. Cotton cloth for woodworking won't do that, have excellent suction ability and can be bought in rolls that are much cheaper than microfiber cloths
Are you just tossing the cloths after?
@@JohnVanderbeck Idk about this, but I imagine they could be washed for resin in IPA and then just left to dry, once the majority of the IPA have been squeezed out of the cloth
Some resins have to be stirred if they sit for more than few hours.
I've been resin printing for a couple of years. You have offered good, relavent advice to beginners. I however, am still guilty of having too many STL suppliers. You CAN collect so many STL files that you can become paralyzed on what to print next.
Thanks for your comment! Yeah I'm starting to have that problem too, with too many STLs.
I agree. The library of shame has grown so much. I've noticed that I've become spoiled with pre-supported files and can't be bothered to do my own supports.
Waaaaaaaaay too many STL's and patreons supported. I'm spending more money than I have spent on GW models earlier.
@@DiavloPL Yep! Told my group that was it. Now more wild spending until I'd cleared my pile of shame. Then went and got a 3d printer and spend hundreds on STLs for other games systems! I could have bought an entire army with what I've spent this month alone :')
@@The_Gryph and my 5th 3d printer just arrived, its not a best hobby for compulsive/impulsive :D
I went to check my resin settings and my lift speed was PERFECTLY in the middle of the dead zone, which explains why my prints suck. Thanks for the awesome tips! :D
No worries, glad I could help. All the best!
Thats good to hear someone else backup the theory of very slow or very fast lift speeds. 180-240 lift and 300 down for me. I have a half second delay before the UV comes on to give the resin a little time to settle back under the print.
One tip I have is, after washing but before removing supports, soak them in very hot water, not boiling, but as hot as you can get away with and still put your hands in. Leave them for a min or so and it really helps loosen the supports which reduces the scaring when you take them off, half the time they will just fall off.
Thanks for sharing and all your comments on different videos. I really appreciate the insights you've shared on all of them.
So if you have a curing station do you cure after the hot water?
@@FreedomForce100Usually it's wash > hot water > remove supports and then cure
One of the big lessons for me was that hollowing my prints decreased the wear and tear on my FEP.
That's a good point! I haven't printed too many hollow items yet, so thanks for the tip!
It's funny, I've had virtually all of these issues while learning resin printing! Great list and explanations!
Thanks for the encouragement John!
I'm about to take the step and purchase my printer. It's incredible how many people have such great advice across every line of model and through all experiences. Every video I watch and comment i read teaches me something I didn't know that I am better off knowing. So I thank the creators and the community. Much love guys❤
Glad we can help. All the best with printing!
I once forgot to bolt down my vat and came back an hour later to the build plate lifting the vat full of resin up and down
Oh no!
Hopefully it didn't make too much of a mess.
My biggest advice for those in colder climates is to make sure your resin is warm enough! You can buy a fermentation belt to help but cold resin is more viscous and increases print failures and decreases overall quality
Yeah, cold resin lead to a lot more failures for me.
I second that. With viscous resin it’s super important, like Siraya tech blu. You can print a little heater enclosure and get the instructions from a Couple TH-cam vids. It’s nice because it has a thermostat so you can set the exact temp you want your resin to be. It costs like $20/$25 total for all parts plus printer enclosure.
When I started using a mini grow tent with a space heater in it my success rate increases exponentially. Definitely a worthwhile investment. Also makes getting rid of fumes easier
Awesome tips! Thanks for the video. I just started resin printing this week. Really enjoying it so far
My biggest tip for anyone is make sure you have enough holes in your prints so resin does not pool inside a print. A hole at the top and a hole at the bottom of the item is best for airflow and cleaning.
That's a great tip, particularly for hollow prints.
In particular, Run thru the model layers in the slicer and look for isolated chuck of resin shaped like a cup or bowl. These literally can from “suction cups” when the model is upside down and trying to pull up off the FEP, multiplying the suction force dramatically. So in a hollow model, there might be the cup shapes formed on the interior of the bottom wall, or even formed in the exterior of the upper surfaces. Drill a hole thru the lowest point in all of these to allow air and resin to flow readily so a suction cup isn’t formed. This goes for solid models too, any feature on the model that might form a suction cup against the FEP should have a hole drilled clear thru to the other side. This is especially important as models get larger as the suction forces multiply with area of the cup.
I often add a hole at the lowest point of the print (for example, the head) not only to allow flow through when cleaning but to avoid resin accumulation when cleaning due to vacuum lock with the interconnecting passage being too small to allow sufficient cold resin to flow and drain when cleaning hollow prints.
How do you then hide/fill in the hole in the print of the finished product? This makes a lot of sense, but I wouldn't want there to just be visible holes in my models
@@internalscreech If the miniature is large enough to warrant hollowing which is when you'd be hiding it then just print it in parts, usually the holes go in attachment points
I love Water-Washable resins and i swear by them. The cleanup process is less smelly, easier, and less likely to dry my skin or give me headaches
Nice. Thanks for sharing Sam!
Thank you for your list! Made the Nr. 11 myself and would also add Nr. 15: leaving your IPA container open for many hours (even without direct sunlight it evaporates fast).
I'll have to remember that, I didn't realise it can evaporate like that. Thanks for the tip!
I been printing with the halot one for the last 3months and only had a hand full of fails and that’s only because of videos like this one!!! Plus the set up is super easy right out of the box!
Thanks Dan! I'm glad you've found this helpful.
I have a mars 2 and have had only a few failures, all of which were the result of the model orientation. My biggest tip would be to orientate your model with the majority of the mass (like the body) closest to the build plate, with the lightest parts (like the limbs) printing last.
Yeah that’s a good one. Thanks for sharing 😁
Thank you so much for producing this video. Helps a lot!
Thanks! Glad I could help.
4years FDM and no resin printer but I’ve followed the tech and some of your advice is still useful for makers like me. like splitting up large prints into smaller pieces in case of failure you can reprint the pieces instead of wasting product.
Appreciate the candid advice
Nice video! I've had a print fail because I was printing too fast, and learned to dial the speed in correctly. The units matter a lot!
Thanks! Yeah getting the right speed makes a difference :)
I've been thinking of getting 3d printer for a long time now. I saw some pretty good deals online, and that brought me to you channel. After pouring over loads of your videos, I pulled the trigger. I love 3d printing, and your videos have made it really easy to get into. Thank you, and keep up the great work.
No worries Garrett. I'm glad they have been helpful. When it arrives, feel free to message me on instagram if you get stuck setting it up.
@@Habes PSH you made everything so simple. It's all set up and printing. I had 2 fails so far, but I'm printing in a basement. Did some small adjustments, and boom. Solid as a rock. Thank you again.
@@garwmart glad it's working！
Nice video!!! I’m just getting into resin printing. Great suggestions. Honestly, the more I learn about resin 3d printing, the more I feel I don’t know. But, I’m trying as I’ve invested too much money to fail! In also have a Creality Halot Sky printer. I think my next print is the Congress of calibration AFTER I update firmware startings! Great tips!
All the best! Looking forward to hearing how you go!
As someone who is looking to get a resin printer bundle sometime this month, this is extremely helpful advice! Like Num.12, I would've never thought to wear gloves or a mask when using resin or curing, but now I know I'll have to keep some in supply
Yeah safety is pretty important, particularly if you’re going to do it for a while.
nice to see a fellow Halot one appreciator, I've had mine over a year, I must say I haven't bothered with dialling in the resins with the calibration tools etc. I just estimate given the resin parameters anbd its basically always been fine, for example my current product says 5-15 seconds and I just go at about 6.4 seconds and works fine. Also changing the location of your prints in the bed not only saves your FEP (cheap and easy to replace) but its also saving your LED screen (much harder to replace).
I never thought about it saving the screen. Thanks mentioning that!
You know, I laughed at you when you talked about securing the build plate. Got my 3d printer, must have done it 2-3 times now. Thanks for all the tips!!
Yeah I almost need to put a sign up reminding me 😅
Glad the video helped
I'm going to buy my first resin printer soon and I am really scared to be totally devistated thinking I'm too stupid for it because I would do things wrong I don't understand, but your video helped a lot :) Now I know what I should look out for! Sure there still will be things that will go wrong because of settings and such, but I know now what other things could happen and why.
Made me a bit braver! Thank you very much ♥
Thanks dude! Your videos is helping a lot, just got my printer set up this week, let see how it goes =). CheerS!
Glad I could help. Happy Hobbying :)
Thank you for this. I will be unboxing my Halot One and the UW01 Wash/Cure when I get home today and your video will be of great assistance on this journey. o7
Glad I could help.
All the best printing.
Awesome video! I'm in the process of buying my first resin printer (have a FDM atm). This was just honest and quick tips. Much appreciated. You my friend get a sub!
Thanks. I’m glad it was helpful!
Good stuff. My Elegoo Mars 3 comes in tomorrow along with their wash and cure. Hope to avoid some mistakes after watching this
All the best printing. Glad I could help!
One very important thing you forgot. Ambiant room temperatures. In warmer parts of the world less of a problem, if you live in colder regions your gonna want to get that room temp up to between 20 and 30C as the warmer it is, the more viscous your resin is, less print failure. Also depends what your printing but generally speaking you cant expect great results if your printing in a cold room.
Yeah that's definitely true.
When I made this video I had only been printing for a few months and we were slowly heading into winter, so I hadn't experience what happens once it gets colder.
Definitely solid advice. Thanks Keegan!
Would something like a fermentation belt or another source of heat also do the job instead of raising the overall room temperature
@@countrydude183 Yeah, particularly from and energy/cost point of view.
I current have a small 40W heater that I use with my printer in a small cupboard when it gets cold.
Haven't tried a fermentation belt though.
@@Habes I was thinking that would be an alternative but just wanted to confirm, thank you very much.
*LESS viscous
Thanks it really helped me,since there is not so much info about the Halot One
No worries, glad you found it helpful!
some great tips, don't forget resin temperature, that was causing all sorts of problems until i realized it was a factor in fails.
Great video, great tips.
Recognized your not fastening the build plate, had a similar moment of shame: forgot to fasten my vat, also a recipe for disaster.
Thanks. I'm glad the video was helpful.
I always have to triple check the build plate, sometimes even as it's lowering into the vat as I start a print.
One other thing to mention is the recommended printing temperature by the Resin manufacturer per brand and or type of resin. Printing at a room temperature below the recommendation will result in higher resin viscosity resulting in failed prints due to the additional drag when the print lifts which can cause separation of part or all of the print as well as support contact points tearing away from the actual print object. Also, when you do a validation print like the cones of calibration, make a note of the room temperature as it only takes a few degrees Celsius lower than the minimum recommended temp to invalidate the calibration.
Those are really good insights 😁
@@Habes Thanks, trial and error with a bit of thinking about problems help solve a lot of issues.
Obscene lift speeds are such a big issue when troubleshooting failed prints. I see so many people wondering why their prints failed and, when you ask them to share their slicer settings, you see lift speeds as high as 360mm/m! Everyone is in such a rush these days, and they're baffled that their warp-speed settings didn't work, blaming their printer or resin when the real problem is that they're trying to run before learning how to walk (or even crawl).
I think all of these 3D printing channels are doing a big disservice to the community by promoting Vroom settings without adding a disclaimer that people new to 3D printing need to get their printers calibrated & printing successfully at slower settings, first.
Thank you for your comment and insight.
Hopefully I didn't come across saying "vroom vroom baby" and not highlighting the potential risk for more fails. I'm going to pin your comment so hopefully more people can read it and be aware of it.
@@Habes To be honest, in trying to help some people out, I've looked up manufacturers' recommended settings in their manuals, and it turns out the reason you see these 360mm/m speeds is because that's what's in the manuals (looking at you, Anycubic). That's wild! Perhaps the newer printers are coming out with improved FEPs that really will work reliably at those speeds, but I will still always believe that you need to understand the fundamentals of what's affecting your prints before charging in on just blind faith.
@@terpdx 360mm/m is crazy in my mind. It could be something newer models are working towards to reduce print times as the refine the process.
I had my first prints with my first resin printer last week. I set my lift speed to 2-4 mm/sec i think
@@Namamiri Did it work for you? If so, that's great! Those settings are within the standard "fast" speeds I've seen. The new settings I'm seeing for ~360 mm/min (6 mm/sec) are very high, and I'm afraid it might lead to frustration for people new to 3D printing when they have print failures but have simply followed the settings provided to them by the printer manufacturer. I've yet to try the newer "nFEP" films, though, but perhaps those make super-high lift speeds a practical reality.
Fantastic video!
Thanks for that, it means a lot :)
Thank you !!!
this is a great video for beginners, something I'd like to add, is do not wash resin down the sink. Its bad for the environment
Yeah that’s a great point that people easily overlook.
You are the boss bro!!! Thank you a lot!
Thanks Michelle! I'm glad to help!
Great tips! Definitely try different resins. The cheaper resins are cheap for a reason :)
I want to jump into resin printing as a hobby. I'm a bit familiar with the traditional resin mold. My question is, is the resin being used in SLA printers the same as that of the traditional resin crafts? Can you also put alcohol inks to make random colors?
@@rcane6842 no, sla printer resin is activated by uv light. You can dye it. Idk what kind of dye to use though.
I'm designing a resin printer (have only used FDM) so this was insightful.
Glad you found this helpful!
Nicely done. Subscribed.
Thanks Chris!
@@Habes I have been close to pulling the trigger on a Phrozen Mighty 8k, but living in an apartment has me very concerned about the potential odors, even with all of the solutions that people have come up with. It's going into winter here. Might be better to wait until next season.
@@katana2665 Yeah that can be tricky. I know one of my mates who lived in a shared house had his setup in the laundry with an air filter/purifier but you'll have to do with what works for you.
Like you said, might be better to wait and you can do some more research until then.
All the best :)
Tip: oil up and dry the FEP with PTFE 3 if your prints keep sticking to VAT. Also slightly sanding Build plate. But some buildplates come pre sanded like Elegoo Saturn 3 I believe. I bought a Saturn 3 after too many failed prints with Mars 2 Pro..stupid of me but I'll need 2 for my BJD business anyway...but will try the cone calibration test before printint. Will also get a space heater as its like 60° IN my house always.
I'm waiting for my anycubic 4k to arrive now so I think this os going to be one of the best channels to actually get help with it as a noob! Lol
Thanks. Happy to help where I can!
i've been taking a serious look at resin printing over the past month or so as i will be getting back into scale modeling for the first time in 25 years. i've watched these helpful videos from many different youtubers, and based on all the information i've gotten, i can reasonably conclude at this time, resin 3D printing is just not for me. when i can free up more space at home and more time in my schedule, and get more serious about what i need to do with models (body kits, wheels, tires) then i'll give it a shot. but for now i think it's best i just look online for custom parts.
thanks a bunch for the helpful tips. you saved me my own brand of nightmare. i hope to update a few years from now with good news of me finally getting into this.👍
No worries, glad I could help. Looking forward to hearing back from you in the future if things change :)
Funny you should say about tightening the build plate
I always remember that, but have twice now forgotten to screw the vat down - first when I got the printer, second after cleaning it (had the printer about a week)
So I've stuck a post-it on the machine to remind me
i fail many times in the step 7 ,but now i fixed and sub ...👌🏼👌🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks :)
Also holes.
If you’re doing a big print, you’ll naturally hollow it out. But without a hole the resin is being sucked up inside of the model each & every lift.
(Think washing a cup & pulling an upside down cup above the water line with the water still inside)
It creates a heap of unnecessary vacuum & will overload your supports mid print, leaving you with just a heap of ladders & the model in the vat.
So tip.
Using your slicer, Place a hole as soon as possible.
Could you share your curing routine for the hollow models?
It's not something I've done yet unfortunately even though I should.
I would assume a UV torch pointed up one of your model's holes.
I've seen one guy have a UV LED and he pushes it all the way up inside the models and moves it around to cure the inside.
Sorry I can't be much more help.
@@Habes I've ordered an UV LED and will try this method as soon as it arrives.
@@GeorgMierau Hope it goes well :)
suction force... make sure to add drain holes if your model allos it. ive just used ggreen stuff and/or resin to fill the hols and tada... but reduces suction cup issues
Awesome video 😎 thank you
Thanks for the kind words Gilly!
@@Habes anytime 😊
Thank you for this video.
Yes, I was concerned with the learning curve. And that although very cool... you almost need a full month of trial and error starting out. My wife has some concerns about the chemicals as I would probably have to do this in the Garage. I still not sure if I want to go this route yet. May stick with filament for now... I am looking for more of a plug n play 3D Printer setup.
Some of the newer small printers are a bit more plug n play now. If you got an Elegoo Mars 2 or 3 and used their resin and recommended settings, you could probably we ok without too much testing. However you need good presupported files, a lot of the trouble people run into is because they find free files online and try support them themselves without knowing much about resin printing.
I hope that helps :)
I'm in the same boat, got my first 3d printer (anycubic vyper) about 3 weeks ago after doing a lot of research and I'm glad I don't have the bed leveling hassle, and I'm roughly in the middle of that beginner's learning curve if I had to judge myself thus far fiddling with all the slicer settings and temps, etc.
I didn't have a goal of printing anything specific when buying one, just wanted to start - and it's fun, but I definitely want to get a resin printer because of the insane level of detail possible and little to no layer lines, etc.
I know that once I get my knowledge and printer settings dialed in, they will come out much better, but I think I'll end up predominantly using the FDM for parts or wall art, etc and leave the prints that need detail to a resin printer. Also looking into getting the Photon Ultra as my first resin printer, seeing as how long the screens/mirrors last before they need replacement so I don't have to fiddle with LCD replacement..
I don't mind all the extra post processing effort I see I'll have to make with the resins, and after watching this video, I'm even more confident I'll have a decent start with resin printing. Wonderful video, thanks much!!!
If any of you have any other tips or comments for me regarding what I've said, please do!!
Thanks for a good video man! What resin were you using at 7min & 7:03min?
I'm really sorry, that was footage from Uncle Jessy's video on Resinlapse. I went to the video, but he doesn't mentioned what resin it is. Some sort of transparent one though. Sorry I can't be more help.
I have the exact same printer as you and literally got it yesterday. I must say your video helped me out so much but as this is my first printer I'd love more tips and so on.
Thanks for the comment. I'm hoping to do a review on the printer as I've had it for 7 months now. Is there anything specific you're interested in?
@@Habes it's hard to say exactly considering this is my first printer and I've barely ever sratched the surface but I would like to to kniw what washing and curing station you're using.
@@jakeplaysgames2820 I'm using Anycubic Wash and Cure 2.0 but the Halot One's build plate is a bit too big. It fits inside fine, but if you have a full build plate it won't fit.
@@Habes Gotcha I'll keep that in mind before I order my curing station.
thank you that helped a lot i would not have calibrated my exposure time
Glad I could help!
9:30 A mask won't do much for fumes, you just need better ventilation if this is an issue, the mask is just a safety blanket at that point.
i mean it will still filter a little bit doesnt it ?
like every bit of saftey is better then no saftey at all
Organic vapor cartridges should work.
Also don't ever forget to secure the resin vat down before printing. I may have done that tonight and ended up with a suspended resin vat that was attached to my build plate 😂😂
Haha, good point. Fortunately I haven't forgotten that yet!
I am just starting with resin printing for miniatures for my tabletop games. I am using the water washable resing at the moment but I'm having trouble with the removal of my print off my print bed. after taking the printout and into the wash, when I tried to scarp my print off: 1. my scarper had a very difficult time just getting between the print and the bed AND 2. When I tried to scape/lift it off the bed, the print cracks/brakes. Any tips and or tricks?
Thank you for this very informative and concise video! Do you have a recommended slicer software you prefer? I know that can play a big part in 3D printing.
I use lychee. I don't have too much experience with Chitubox or other slicers. I think a lot of it is personal preference.
5 failed prints so far. Did a lot of research too prior to purchase. Was getting pissed, lol, did research into fixes and making some progress. Alas I come here and your cones of calibration seems like what I might need. We have same resin printer. Thanks, almost gave up hope lol.
Thanks, my first week was pretty rough XD
Good luck, can message me on insta or discord if you need help.
Both in channel bio.
I had a lot of misprints like you. Models came loss from the supports and sticks to the FEP. My experience is that it's most of the time a problem with the supports.
I use Lychee slicer and if you place supports at 0.00 mm into the object the issue increase. I always have my settings to 0.30 mm into the object.
Lychee handles that setting different than ChiChubox dos. In Lychee the supports don't go in to the object for real. So an Island only sticks better on a support.
My second collusion was slower lift speed and slower Retract speed. I set my lift speed to 1.8 mm/s and retract speed to 3 mm/s and lift the build platform 5 mm. I had more failures when this speed settings was higher (now I have non). The Lifthight can decrease/increase the print time in many minutes. 1 mm difference can save you 1 hour. Do not cure your botomlayers too long because the resin is too stuck on the FEP, and then you need a larger lifthight.
Time settings...... just never change them again when you find the sweet spot.
My opinion is that every Printer brand has his own setting. An Ellegoo printer can react different from an Anycubic and so on.
So true about different brand printers having their own settings. Always have to calibrate the printer individually.
Levelling the printer is also very important. Not just the built plate, but the printer too. This will give you less failures
wahoo, just click you over till 500 likes. nice video man. feel like I've missed out on 5 minutes of unboxing.
Thanks so much! Hopefully it was helpful :)
I always leave my resin in the tank, it saves me time and effort. 🙌
I got an elegoo with elegoo resin and it basically worked right out of the box. I even forgot to tighten the build plate and it printed perfectly
Yeah I found that with my Saturn 2 as well. I think the newer printers are becoming more plug and play.
Tip #_x_: Make sure that your resin vat is secured down. I forgot to secure the resin vat once and came back 20 minutes later to see the vat being lifted up when the build plate was trying to retract.
Fortunately haven’t had that happen to me yet, but great reminder!
The hardest thing for me to for e myself to do is the ppe primarily the respirator but also not cross contaminating tools. Have a procedure and stick to it for cleaning the machine and your tools.
Yeah I struggle not to touch anything once I get resin on the gloves when handling prints. No matter what I do, resin just finds a way to get everywhere.
Oh man, this is really helpful, thanks so much. A great idea for a video would be more examples of failed prints, specifically what was wrong, and what the solution was/were. eg: I'm getting this weird edge-lifting of flat-bottomed objects, making them look more like cartoon boat hulls. I think it might be a loose or sticky FEP, or plate crowding, or wrong initial exposure time duration, or not big enough skirt, or gypsy curse or something else, but there are frankly too many variables and not enough time available on the local library's "village bicycle" resin printer. So itemizing specific problems as a compilationin video would be gold to me. Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply. I did record a video of “common issues and how to fix” but found it wasn’t up to scratch for a video. After hearing this I think it’s worth me revisiting that idea.
Thanks!
I printed almost all of my first bottle (Phrozen Aqua Resin Ivory 4K, which I understand is actually good resin, but I picked just for the color),
on a Mars 3 Ultra (not Pro).
Also I don't have washing and curing machines, I just use a plastic box of alcohol and cure them in the Sun (of which lately there's very little - mostly clouds and rains).
And so far I have zero fails!
I'm quite surprised too. I've watched many videos on resin 3d printing and saw how many things can go wrong.
Also when I started I did no settings in the slicer (chitubox). I opened the settings windows saw that I have no idea what I'm looking at and only set the printer to be my model in the slicer.
The only issues I had so far is getting out the printed parts out of the build plate. Especially those I print flat, which I do for the miniatures base plates - being low profile and flat bottom seems waste (of resin and most of all - Time!) to angle them and support them, so I just put as many as I can for single print, and in 20~30 mins they're done.
But yes the flat base plates are the hardest to remove from the build plate (but also the strongest so I don't shy of using extra force).
And the other issues are that I broke 3 pieces when removing the supports (after I've removed them from the build plate). Fortunately 2 of the 3 breaks were clean and was very easy to superglue (the 3rd one was also clean, but I didn't notice it when removing the supports and I guess I've thrown the front of a female figurine foot in the trash).
So as a result I got cocky and I printed a bracket to hold the build plate at an angle after printing to better drain the resin left on the build plate before washing it.
I got that pre-supported (and clean stl of course) and I was going to print the supported version as usual, but I noticed some supports looking weird and unnecessary (and too thick), I played few minutes trying to fix just the weird ones, but I gave up, started with the clean STL, set supports to light (and even made them a bit lighter, down to 0.7mm thickness), printed it expecting epic fail and that I would have to finally drain the resin in the tub thru a filter to remove the failed parts (and avoid breaking my screen afterwards) ... I even hollowed the bracket and put few small drain holes because it seemed to me it has good potential to save on resin, while still being acceptably strong ...
But I got a problem - it printed perfectly fine!
Build plate removal and supports removal was much easier. Wasn't sure if the resin from inside the bracket was drained already, so after cleaning it and curing it a bit more in the sun I dared put my lips on one of the holes to blow in and see if any resin will get out, but nothing got out except for some air.
So now I still have no idea what to do if something goes wrong :/
I'm going to buy a flex-plate to make prints removal much easier, and perhaps I'll get simple curing box (or put one myself - DIY style), and next I'll have to use the regular resins, so I wonder if there'll be any difference.
Thanks for sharing.
Sometimes it's easier to reprint that try save the print, depending on what print is.
All the best with the printing.
@@Habes , Thanks! You too!
Don't risk getting uncured resin on you. Use a straw, air compressor, or vacuum to test for leftover liquid resin. The chemicals in resins are no joke. Be safe.
@@edeaglehouse2221 , I know. Thank you for the reminder!
I'm being intentionally very careful (in addition to the mask, gloves & glasses), doing everything slower than I would normally do, and so far I don't have a single spill.
I'm also waiting now for the wham bam flex-plate magnet to stick to my build plate (72 hours),
and in the mean time I'm making a DIY UV-curing box from a cardboard box Alu-foil and uv-led-strips.
Even got couple of those tiny turntables for jewelry (found them for about 5€ a piece. Actually I found them even cheaper, but I had to order 100 :) which of course I didn't)
Btw I played with hollowing and made an extreme print - a ~30mm human fighter mini hollowed to a 0.5mm wall, and added plenty of holes in hard to see places (some smaller holes armpits and under-side of the cape to allow for air to enter/escape and push the resin thru the bigger holes on the feet, arms and also one where we all have a hole :))
I'm saying this because I wondered how the easiest to get liquid resin from inside the model, and thought about blowing thru, but then I read that this is excellent way to get droplets of liquid resin flying all around (if there are such inside the model in the first place).
So I'm focusing on rinsing it really well in IPA to get it in & out many times and wash any leftover liquid resin there. Bubbles are a good indicator that air & IPA are moving thru with each dip.
It works well when the cavities and at least 2 holes are big enough. The challenge is with tight cavities in a model, given that also in those places often it's difficult or impossible to add a large hole.
But here Lychee slicer actually helps. It allows me to block areas of the model hollowing to avoid such tight spaces and focus only on a larger cavity that's much easier to manage and clean.
What I though about for curing the resin inside tighter cavities is perhaps I could get few optical fibers, tie them together on one end, and place them directly again a UV led (probably some bracket could be useful), and then insert the free ends in the holes of a hollowed model to cure it better from the inside.
Funny you say you printed on the right side. Im currently struggling to get parts to stick on the left of my build plate. Also a Halot-One
Hopefully that's just a coincidence and not something wrong with the Halot One completely.
@@Habes oh no 100% me the halot one has been amazing. Especially after the firmware updates lately. Super inspiring to see what you have printed with it so far
I have the exact same printer and was wondering what your exposure setting were for the elegoo water washable resin. I just switched to this resin and have only gotten failed prints so far.
I ended up using 3.5s iirc. There's a video of me review that resin with the Halot One.
th-cam.com/video/V9LrzBL_BD0/w-d-xo.html
Awesome content. Thanks for posting. In the video, you mentioned an article you read and said you'd link it, but I don't see the link. I'm really interested to read it.
Sorry about that! I had to reupload the video, and in doing that forgot to add it. It's in the description now :)
Just use the user settings on Lychee to get a good ballpark. My cones printed perfect the first time with various resin types.
Yeah those user settings are pretty useful
If you have a filament (pla) printer you must check the printing at least every 1/2 hour. A catastrophe is just one blob away.
Yeah that's happen to me before XD
Hey; great video but can I ask a couple of questions? I've been struggling with my 3D prints and would love your help. Should I remove the supports before curing or after? I use a water washable resin atm as I don't have a washing and curing station. Also I seem to be losing a lot of definition on the smaller models, could this be due to over exposure while printing? Can you over cure an item? And would you recomend any 3D programs to help do things like divide a model? Thanks and have a great day!
I'll try my best to answer.
I always remove supports before curing. I found that to be easier, and sometimes you can use warm water to help in that.
It could be over exposure, maybe it could be worth lowering your exposure and doing the same model and compare them.
I'm not too experienced with post curing process. I usually cure it until the print isn't tacky/sticky anymore. That is usually a couple of minutes in the wash n cure.
I think you can over cure prints but I'm not sure what happens, I think they become a bit more brittle 🤷♂
I've have used prusaslicer to cut models but it's pretty bad. Only does a straight line. If you want a more detailed program maybe Blender? But it's a bit of a learning curve (I can't use it 🤣).
I hope that helps, happy hobbying :)
@@Habes Thank you so much with the reply! Take care and happy printing!
Best advice I've seen is to clip supports after washing but before final curing. Then, the print is a little softer and removal doesn't leave as much scarring.
hELLO! Thank you for sharing this video. I'm really curious about the Lift Speed Deadzone thingy. Do you know where I can read more about it?
Thanks. I had a quick look and couldn't find anything specifically relating to it. It came up when I was talking to some tech support from Atlas when I was having trouble at the start printing some One Page Rules minis.
If I find anything later on I'll let you know. If I can find the information, I'd really love to do a video going deep into the math/physics behind print failures.
@@Habes thank you so much for the leads! i will take a look at Atlas :)
Great video and tips, what type of mask and cartridges do you use? I've been into Bunnings and Blackwoods and they didn't really have an answer for me other than 3M Organic Vapour/Acid Gas Cartridge Filters? Is that right?
Hey Ross,
The brand was Trojan and it was the A1+P2 rating cartridges.
I'm not an expert with this and whether I need higher ratings (like A2), but it seems to block the fumes. First time I used my printer I got a headache from the fumes, but haven't since the mask.
It's quite a niche hobby so It'd be hard to ask them for advice.
I'm sorry it's not a definite answer but I hope it helps. If you find out please let me know :)
@@Habes No worries, will do and I'll look more into what you're using too. Thanks.
Honestly getting a good slicer program made it much better for me. I use to use like anycubics slicer but just got failure after failure. Then I switched to Lychee and bam, success
That’s a good point.
I personally haven’t experience that as the first slicer I used was lychee but I’ve seen people have slicer issues which can be frustrating if you don’t know it’s the slicer causing the issue.
overloading the build plate... noted...
the exposure calibration is per resin type ? or do you need to do it every time you get a new resin bottle ? ( even if it's the same you have been using before)
I haven't bought 3d printer yet but I'm almost on the edge of buying it, so I'm looking at all kinds of the videos
I have seen this one a lot > exposure calibration
this model looks great !
It's per resin type. So if you have ABS Like and then swap to Water Washable, you'd want to do an exposure calibration. It's even worth doing if you swap brands, as there could be a little variance.
I hope that helps.
@@Habes ah perfect, yep that's what I though, that's for confirming. Really hope to embark on the 3d printing yourney, it's been something I have been thinking about for few years now
@@nosalis No worries. All the best and glad I could help.
Exposure depends on the resin and the printers light source. The manufacturer and printing communities can likely suggest settings for your combination of choices. Somebody it there has probably already tried them. There are many folks happy to help.
My first print failed from not enough resin in the vat (or perhaps too ambitious a print). I'm surprised there aren't level indicators on the side of the vat for this reason, at least there aren't on the one in my anycubic.
Yeah, I think some companies have started adding markers to their vats, but it's weird that they didn't have them from the start.
Nice video. I just got this same machine and have only printed the preloaded models so far but it's pretty fun! Have you had any issues converting files into the correct file type for the Halot One?
I've just been using lychee slicer and selecting the halot one profile on that.
Haven't run into any issues with file types so far.
It's a really good starting printer. I'm glad I bought it.
If you run into any issues you can message me on discord/instagram.
@@Habes I just tried using the lychee slicer directly to that file type and it didn't work. I had to export it as an stl and then use the halot slicer to get it to print but maybe I'm doing something wrong. I have the newest version of lychee
@@StormStep message me on instagram @habeshobbies. I can send you a screenshot of what it looks like when I export on lychee if that's helpful.
Actually I did experience a plug and play experience, but I did watch a ton of videos before my printer got here, so I had plenty of time to get tools, mask, gloves, a ventilated area to do it, and my anycubic is overall really nice. The problem with 3D printing is the time you need to take apart. Aside from that I recommend water washable resin is much easier to handle.
I'm glad you had that experience. With my newest printer it's been pretty much that too. I think the newer machines are getting easier and easier to use.
generalizing a bit here. much more to consider when calibrating exposure time like environment etc.
When I made this video, temperature wasn't an issue for me, so I never even thought about its affects on calibration.
Wonder why Anycubic doesn’t put a microswitch onto the platform for the wash and dry station to know when the wash station is installed. This would allow the circuit to not be placed in wash mode unless the tank is sitting on the platform which would prevent the high speed spinning mistake when trying to cure the model.
Yeah that’d be super handy.
I got my from cults one gave gives free put together modes that have different gear and poses
Hi! As soon as my resin printer arrives I’ll be diving into the world of resin printing, though safety is a concern. Do you think having the printer in a desk on my bedroom safe? I planned to open my windows and go somewhere else while printing to avoid fumes. But I’m no expert :P so what can you suggest me?
I've seen online that people do it. That doesn't mean it's safe.
I personally wouldn't have it in the same room, particularly a place where you sleep.
If you can find another place in your home that would be better. One friend has his in the laundry with an air purifier.
I do programming as a hobby, so I'm used to frustration over lots of trial and error and things failing constantly. I just bought my first 3d printer, a resin 3d printer at that. It'll be easy 🤣😎
All the best with it!
Im learnin today ! 😅 yesterday i started a 19 hour beserker print file on my halot 8k and first 2 trys it diddnt stick to the bed so now im on number 3 and its stuck but now im worried imma run outa clear blue ink in the trey. i started with 500 now its lookin light and i gotta go to bed so im thinking about adding clear red to make a half blue half purple print incase it runs out.😅 uhh hopefully the blue dont run out
If they have the same exposure settings you should be good. All the best!
I’m just getting into res printing. What’s a good time to wash/cure models? Like how long should I wash/cure a small model vs a bigger model?
I don’t know the exact “science” of it.
For washing I use a wash and cure station and put them in for about 4-6 mins depending on how many prints are in there and the size. I think you can’t “over” wash the prints, but I’ve heard of prints being ruined when people have forgotten to take it out of the IPA for a few days.
For curing I put it in the cure station for around 4 ish minutes. It’s on a spinning plate. I know some people cure it for shorter times, because if you over cure it, the resin may become brittle.
However the aim is for the print to not be tacky/sticky on touch and that usually takes 4 minutes in my set up.
Bigger models might take longer as they might have to be rotated to get all parts cure.
Recently started, and it's going great so far!
Just struggling to figure out which resin to buy... and which ones in Australia won't break the bank! Any tips/hints?
Hey Peter, I’ve been using Elegoo Abs Like for minis. Usually buying off eBay when there’s a deal.
Best to buy in bulk when there’s deals if you can manage.
However I haven’t seen any recently.
@@Habes Thanks for the quick reply!
That's the stuff I got with the printer... but it's $60/1,000 on Amazon, so I'm on the hunt for something a bit more affordable...
@@pkmcleod yeah, I think if you can get $40/1kg that's a good deal. I got around that but had to buy 4.
Mistake #1. Buying a 3D resin printer :)
I corrected that mistake very quickly and went back to my beloved FDM ;)
Water washable resin tip - Don't leave the water in your wash & cure station.... It *will* rust the spindle on the impeller and seize it up 😢
Yeah I found that out when I first tried it. Quickly emptied the water and found that they had help up ok.
The only STLs I’ve purchased are a guy who had a one time purchase on his etsy where he continuously updates a mega folder that contains all the STLs he makes, and it was like 70% off
That sounds like an awesome deal!
I just bought the creality halot one and I had that fear that the 3k wasn't good enough to do models like I want to but I happened to stumble on your page and its a massive relief seeing how good your models look! Do you think the quality on the printer is good and you dont regret not buying a better, 8k one?
Hey Liam,
It's a great beginner printer and I have no regrets getting it. Not sure if you've seen my 2022 printing video but everything you see in that video that isn't FDM printed was printed on the Halot One.
Up close I think you could tell the difference in quality but when you're gaming with them on the table it'll be hard to notice the difference. It also depends on how detailed the file is you're printing.
I have recently also bought the Saturn 2 🤫 which you should see videos in the next month or two on.
@@Habes thank you for your reply. I saw your competition video and that detail was amazing! That’s all the detail I would want as a complete starter right?
The Saturn series was exactly what I was looking at, which is 8k resolution right? I’m definitely the type that prefers to buy once… but I’m sure the halot is good enough for now
My printer arrives Monday and your channel is great, thanks!
@@Liam0125 Yeah you should be good. It's definitely a great printer and good value for $$$.
Halot is also quite beginner friendly in terms of the parameters you need to adjust as it limits them.
All the best!!!
Hi there. I just wondered whats the best type of paint to use for resin prints please?
It depends on what their application is. I'm using them as tabletop miniatures, so I'm using acrylic based paints especially for that.
In general as long as you prime the print first with a primer most acrylics should be good, unless you have a very specific purpose for the print.
@@Habes Thank you very much. That's really useful.
A water based quick dry undercoat / primer?
At the 2.55 minute mark on your video you show an empty vat but in the sections that show the screen there is static cling or moisture attraction happening on the screen. It looks like bubbles but it is major cause of print fails. Try cleaning the screen and underside of the vat with alcohol and pre warm the resin so during the peel process the suction is not pulling moisture out of the air and attracting it to the cold vat.
Thanks for the tip Karl!
I have a Halot one also and it was a nightmare to figure out
Hopefully it's all smooth sailing now :)
Hello. I have exactly the same machine and same resin, but to have a good calibration i have to put 4.5s exposure. What slicer do you use and do you use printer settings or slicer settings ??? Thanks.
Sorry, I just saw your comment.
I'm using ABS like resin from Voxelab.
Base Layers 35s with 6-8 layers.
Normal layer exposure 3.1-3.2 per layer.
Not light off delay and I do 3mm/s but if you want to be more careful 1mm/s.
I use lychee slicer and I select printer settings as I adjust the setting on the printer.
I have also made a video on how to calibrate your printer:
th-cam.com/video/LGOF0IyVhuI/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps.
What are you using for paints? Also what are you using for curing?
Stand acrylic paints for miniatures. Vallejo, army painter, citadel.
I’m using anycubic wash and cure 2.0
@@Habes thanks for the help!
thanks bro. i am using pla material and i want to control it to be air proof what setting shall i change and increase for that goal?
PLA material as in for FDM printing? What do you mean by air proof?