Added some timestamps/timeline quick links for folks. I get asked about Add-Ons ALLL The time. Here is a quick link to most of the items mentioned in the video amzn.to/2UMEfXj
I NOW HAVE RESIN ALLERGY THANKS TO THIS LATEX GLOVES LINK SUGGESTION. YOUR LINK TO THE GLOVES IS BAD. YOU SHOULD NOT USE LATEX GLOVES FOR HANDLING SLA RESINS! PLEASE BUY NITRILE GLOVES AND DON'T REUSE THEM. OVER TIME, YOU WILL DEVELOP ALLERGY LIKE I DID. I NOW WEAR EXTRA THICK, LONG NITRILE GLOVES TO PREVENT RASHES AND HIVES BREAKOUTS.
I really want to stress to anyone here that's completely new to resin printing, these are all luxuries and you don't really need any of them with the exception of gloves and paint strainers. I use and old trash bucket instead of the lunch trays and in my opinion works much better since the print falls in there and doesn't make a mess (you can see in the video how his print flies off of the lunch tray which also used to happen to me before I switched). Also in the timestamp it says latex gloves, but he means nitrile gloves. Do not use latex gloves they don't offer protection from resin. As for the pickle jar it works, but I bought some cheap $1 containers at dollar tree. The pickle jar will cost much more and sometimes not be as big. I just dump my print in there and shake the container. It works in much the same way that your washing machine washes your clothes. I would say start with this basic stuff first and if down the road you decide you want to give some of these other suggestions a try then you can start spending extra money at that point. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and I regret buying it. The lunch trays were useful but they're just sitting in my backyard now. The scraper is a good investment though. I bought one before I even got my printer and was worried I was making a mistake since I was new and didn't know what I was doing and people weren't really recommending them yet. Best investment I made. Mine is half the size but has a good slope and a very good handle.
Thank you so much for the advice! I already have an FDM printer, and love the print fidelity of resin printers. But the cost of all the equipment TH-camrs own, that I thought I needed is just so prohibitive. Your comment really helped me decide
And a cool tip from my GF who works in a laboratory :D Turn your gloves upside down while taking them off. That way you keep the mess inside. I just roll them after this and put them in a small zip lock bag and they get very compact. Makes it super easy to reuse and it's good both for the environment and for the budget. Thumbs up so more people can start doing this!
As a new Saturn owner I can tell you how handy this video was. I didn’t really understand how messy this process was and all you tips went a long way in helping it be a better experience. Thanks!
One thing that's also an amazing accessory is a water filter jug like the 'Brita' ones you put in the fridge - cheap ones cost like $10-$15 and once you've cured the resin in your waste IPA you can pour in into the jug and leave it a few mins to filter through and collect the cleaned IPA in the bottom (also obviously works for water used with water washable resin!). They all hold at least 1.5 liters of fluid and it's a quick, mess-free way to recycle your IPA without having to stand there for a few minutes pouring into a funnel. Once the filter is full, new ones are only a few dollars or to be even cheaper you can split them apart and fill them with cheap synthetic bathroom sponge or cotton wool or whatever you want.
@@Sidbarret2223 If you use coffee filter, you have to use a mesh cone to hold it in. That way it doesn't just drain only through the bottom, this is why coffee makers have raised lines on the inside for the coffee filter :).
A cool thing about UV lamps in general is that you can set these up for use-on-demand to cure resin and make them easy to clean/remove from your stuff, and by extension remove the need of excessive IPA usage. I have a custom made entirely closed-off acrylic workstation equipped with the stuff (even has nitrile handgloves in airsockets, like I'm working in a lab lol), and its nice how easy and safe it is to clean it up when its all cured.
having those uv floodlights is also useful for safety. i typically blast my work areas in uv light afterwards to cure any resin than may have dripped or splattered without my knowing
same the uv lights are useful for cleaning up after. you can also get those silicon mats off amazon in large sizes. they are used often for pet food mats, resin jewelry mats , kidplacment mats.
For a funnel, use one of those collapsible silicone funnels. Much easier to clean and resin tends to just drain away for the most part as it's silicone.
I bought a stainless steel funnel that's got a built in paint strainer off Amazon. No hassle with messy disposable filters and I can just chuck it in my alcohol bath to clean it up afterwards.
Just run some hot, but not boiling water over the build plate, the metal will expand slightly, the resin will soften up and the models will slide off. No scraper or metal gimmick plate required. Helps supports come off cleanly too. Buy a silicone dog food mat for 50c instead of playing $40 and use an old jumper to cover the printer instead of $60 for a cover.
As an alternative/addition to the pickle jar, I ended up getting a salad spinner by progressive prep solutions for $12 from walmart. It's nice because there is a lever at the top that you pull spinning the colander inside of it. Comes in handy.
I got an Elegoo Mercury Plus and have been using it with the prints from my Mars Pro. It works great and is a lot easier to use than the pickle jar/ultrasonic cleaner and UV lamps. It makes the workflow much more seamless.
I just started resin and my buddy came over to help and I looked like I was ready for surgery getting my first prints prepped. He was amused. I never thought of the lunch trays but ordered some! Organizing the cleaning process is so important but then theres curing, I've experimented with actinic lighting (sub UV and it seems to work so far, very GENTLLY with no sun discoloration these are UV like lights for salt water fish tanks). Your advice has been epic, Im just printing because I like to paint and it relaxes me LOL no profit
On paint strainers and funnels, I picked up one off Amazon from Sovol. A stainless steel funnel with removable metal filter inserts, so you can filter the resin without having to constantly waste paint strainers. There may be a cheaper option, but that's the one I came away with.
One other item you might consider which I ended up buying after having some failed prints: a remote sensing thermometer. You get these in sets with a sensor that you can easily place inside the housing of your printer and then the temperature readout. At a glance you can see if it's warm enough to print and if not, you can warm up the area before printing.
REUSING IPA Not sure if I posted this on this channel before. Using a cheap coffee filter is a great way to strain the recently expensive IPA, to remove suspended resin and particles. The IPA will still be discolored after straining but who cares.
Thank you for this video, I've added some of this to my repertoire just getting into 3D printing and my experiences have been extremely positive and I've been able to avoid some headaches that those that have been doing this much longer have encountered.
On the one hand, yes, I knew I didn't NEED a wash/cure station when I got my printer; but the amount of annoyance I've had trying to cure my crafting uv resin with flashlights/nail lights sold me. (That kind of uv resin + the clear version of "blue stuff" is awesome to recast broken model parts so you can finish whatever vintage kit you're building)
A soft faced vice (or vice with inserts) used to hold just the build plate while knocking prints off without having to re-level is really handy. (Some plate mechanisms hold better than others judging from comments online - leveling every time may be needed with less stable models. Caution to remount the plate mechanism to the arm in the exact same position should also be taken. Suggest keeping a finger near the stop icon after disturbing the plate when homing in any case.) Cloud cover can actually intensify uv levels by bouncing them back when it's not so heavy it blocks it to begin with. Checking UV index in local weather would be a good reference for those curing prints outside.
Your videos are so so helpful!!! I’ve just started on printing, but I’m using a large silicone mat. You can cut them to any size, they are way cheaper than the wham bams, and you get much bigger space and any color option so you can tailor to your resin color defaults so you can see it best. Like, I’m using grey resin and that’s hard to see against orange, so I’m using white silicone that’s semi transparent. So u can see if resin got UNDER the mat, too! :). It’s also heat resistant so bc it’s big, it goes under the whole printer, catches all the goo and I got a big one so it covers the side area too. But I’m new so who knows. I might be wrong. But I don’t think so. Those slap mats don’t make ergonomic sense to me. The rest? I’m off to Amazon right now. I hope every single one of these companies sponsors you bc you’re a guy I trust and will def follow your lead!!!! Buying it all, lol
Well darn, I have almost all of those things (thanks to your previous videos). I do like the handles for the lid but I think I'll make a top mount single hand grip one for my smaller printer 😁
For the Scraper, there are perfect plastic scrapers with changable blades. I use them since half a year and didnt have a Problem to get Prints from the Build plate since then
A wine aerating funnel usually includes a metal screen filter which can easily fit into a plastic funnel - this alleviates the need to use disposable paint strainers when pouring resin back into a bottle. (Of course this could be a problem easily solved through FDM printing with cheese cloth or another straining material.)
instead of plastic lunch trays, may I suggest metal cookie pans. You can get them at most grocery stores for 5 or 6 bucks and they work great. I line them with the blue fiber shop towels (seem to be more absorbent than standard paper towels). I've found that resin can make the plastic gummy and soft.
I would love to get the Wham Bam Magnetic sheet for my M3 Max, but $127 ($140 with Shipping) is just ridiculous for a sheet magnet and thin piece of stainless steel, on top of that, all orders it says are drop shipped from China.
Just realized you are from Upstate NY. I recognized that Rochester T-shirt. Really enjoy your videos. I'm in Braddock Heights, Greece NY. Just started another TH-cam Channel 3DSanbox, no content beyond one video ( not so good resolution, lol), but working on new videos around 3D printing and now got a Longer Orange 10 resin printer to experiment with next. I also have 6 3D FDM printers in my mini 3D print farm. Anyway, thank you for the videos!
you mentioned use'n a UV pen light to quickly glue two pieces together. Have you tried using a small bit of baking soda in those joints before putt'n them together? The soda causes the glue to cure almost on contact.
This is super helpful! I just ordered my first 3d printer last night. These are all good tips that I will take into account. Thanks from a fellow Rochestonian!
First thing I bought was the heavy duty gloves... I only use disposable when I need to do things that require precise finger movement... And that flexible magnetic plate is genius! I just need them to be sold at my country xD
LOL I was like, I know there is a reason I used to watch Uncle Jessy and then I saw your shirt. I live in Brighton near East and Elmwood. I ordered a bunch of the cheap stuff on your list ;) Except the pickle jar - I have the SAME ONE for my old resin printer (just got a new one).
Large command hooks also make great removable handles. I prefer using plastic razor blades to remove prints. If you have a smaller printer plastic takeout containers are great for transporting things around. My food delivery uses insulated cardboard boxes that are reflective on the inside that make a great curing station. Definitely will pickup some reusable gloves and a UV flashlight now
6:19 I actually found these pickle containers at the dollar store. They're not huge but they're certainly big enough for minis and most things I would print.
The pickle jar is a cracking idea I wish I'd known about them, however I am soon to be in the possession of a self-stirring mug :) I own a Photon zero so it's going to do tiny builds
Great informative video! Especially for people that are beginning to get into the resin 3d printing arena. Your the best Man..love Your videos! Happy Holidays to You and Your Family!
I see you have the mandalorian code key in the thumbnail... 😆 so, could you pour silicon on the lunchtray and basically have stiff slap mat to move prints from one location to,the other, etc...
9:07 OMG I hate trying to use the tiny funnel with my paper strainers. Making the funnel stand up while holding the strainer and pouring out the vat requires 3 hands. 😂
I've found if you can build a box you can build a larger curing station. If you can't build a box you can just get a cardboard box and line it with aluminum tape. I have the same UV light he shows cut a hole in the top of the box that I could shine the light through and put a UV powered rotating display stand inside the box and that's how I cure all of my large prints. As far as scrapers go I have a paint scraper but was afraid of scratching up of gouging the build plate so I actually sharpen a plastic scraper with sandpaper and have had zero issues getting my prints off with it
@WilcoMR-S Ah nice one man. Love the printers, but it's a pain in the ass when you have flat based prints that stick to the build plate. I'll have to get myself some to try. 👍🏻
Thanks for the tips, the handles on the lid are a great idea I have fitted a pair and they make lifting the lid much safer, the PTFE spray I have ordered not tried it yet and I have got hold of the Wham Bam build plate I haven`t used my printer yet only had it a week I am just prepping it for first use and this video was most helpful thanks.
Thanks for the great list of accessories. You mentioned that you don't work with resins that smell bad, is there a brand that you recommend over others when it comes to not smelling bad? I will be using my printer in a room that others may occasionally be in and don't want to stink up the place.
For safety it's not a good idea to use even the low fumes ones in living spaces. The eco-resins usually smell less, but still contain the harmful photoinitiator chemical that causes allergic skin and lung reactions with exposure over time. Look for a way to either use the printer away from living space (like in a workshed) or build/buy a means to extract fumes, or at the very least make sure the room is well ventilated and definitely get a respirator rated for organic vapours, I use 3M brand mask and P2 particulate filter with A2 organic vapour filter.
10:38 also I recommend getting a 405 nm violet laser pointer (2 bucks on ebay). Although its technically weaker than the flashlight at 5-20mW, its much more intense and allows precise curing. That thing has kinda found a new purpose, as its useless as a pointer- its super dimm. In fact, 405nm violet is so close to uv that its just called uv
3:30 I actually just tweeted a photo of what happens if you leave your printer in the sun, even with the acrylic cover on. It want pretty haha Luckily it cleaned up easily.
Question Jessy, could you consider a video with your top 10 resins! and explain its settings for best results and an explanation why you like the specific resin? I have a hard time with some resins yet my first transparent resin I bought from monocure somehow works better than the more expensive Photocentric uv resin in white.
Great video great options. I recently picked up a reusable coffee filter with the fine mesh like the paint strainers but much easier to clean and no waste at all. Cheers
Dude! How do ya clean the yuck off the cover? I can't get mine clean. Oh, also am ultrasonic cleaner vat! Holy crap what a difference cleaning off prints. I've got that exact pickle bucket lol. I also got the flex plate, YES! I also got an aluminum vat. I have the photon mono, and it's got that plastic vat with proprietary fep. You recommended the vat, build plate, and I'm so glad I listened. I've not tried the fep lube yet, but I've only had 1 or 2 sticks, and they were on the old vat. Nothing at all with the new one. The ultrasonic bath though. I got it for under $30. It's a jewelry cleaner. That, the pickle bucket, and I also got a UV light that came with a solar turn table, and a kind of truss/scaffold thing with it. It was I think $25. So, bucket for extra alcohol, untrasonic bath, and the UV rig with the Amazon box it came in cut and foiled wrapped around the scaffold is my clean and cure set up, and it was maybe $70 total. Not the cheapest, but I was able to piece at a time it. The most noticeable things that have made huge improvements on my anycubic photon mono are, the build plate #1, then the vat, then the US bath. Can't recommend those 3 things enough if you've got the photon mono.
@unclejessy sharpen the scraper on a wet stone, mine has an edge i can cut paper with, takes off anything, even stuff stuck on the fep without damaging it like a razor blade
To make prints easy to remove, at little cost, take VOG's advice and print a 0.1mm box that covers the entire bottom of the build platform. Super easy to remove!
How deep does curing prints actually go? like if you printed a solid 6" cube and cured it then cut it in half how far inward would the resin be cured completely?
Has 3d printer, buys handles that can be printed≠compute lol. I mean with shipping 2-3 days and $8 for 4 I'd say cost savings and time to print/cure is worth it.
I have a large lunch tray under my Transform just in case the fep might tear, didn't know PTFE was good for the fep, will try that, someone recommended a mold release lubricant but that can ignite when there is too much heat so PTFE might be better.
Rubbernaid Maximizer is a better scraper then oem one or a putty knife while not as wide it is super thin and allows me to get under the prints much quicker and easier. It is a bit sharper so watch out when removing and dont put too much pressure or it will scrape the build plate up but nothing that cannot be sanded down. Works super well. Got a wham bam now so it is retired tho
At first i thought this was going to be garbage like they do with the filament printers: (new boards, rails and such to screw up your printer), then I seen you bring out real accessories. Nice. +1
The timestamp and timeline both say "latex gloves" whereas what is shown in the video (and what you want instead) are nitrile gloves. Not only are many people allergic to latex, but latex will inhibit the cure of some resins (rare) and platinum-cure silicones (always).
I'd suppose something with a bath at least as large as your printer volume... I have one that is just sliiiiiightly smaller than my Mars2Pro and it works like a charm.
4:28 I'm sure it would be easy enough to print handles like that and use some double sided tape. I may do that. I don't have extra money to buy things I can make at home.
Hi, thanks for the great videos. I just have one question, when you store your printers as you mentioned on shelves, do you use extension cables and splitters to power them? I was just wondering if I need to add more grounded outlets in the area where I will store my printers.
Im curious why you have the two big lamps set up on the edges of that bucket when you have some kind of LED strips running up the inside of the metal bucket.
Using a razor scraper, instead of the crappy spatulas that come with the printers, also helps a lot with removing prints. For anyone who doesn't quite want to spend the money on a flex plate.
My printer arrives tomorrow but quick question about the metal flex plates. When I put them onto the printer should I zero out the build plates Z axis with the plates attached.. attached
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Added some timestamps/timeline quick links for folks. I get asked about Add-Ons ALLL The time. Here is a quick link to most of the items mentioned in the video
amzn.to/2UMEfXj
I went to a hardware store and just drilled 2 small holes in my Plastic covers and installed Dresser drawer handles..works great as well.
Lychee Slicer?
I NOW HAVE RESIN ALLERGY THANKS TO THIS LATEX GLOVES LINK SUGGESTION. YOUR LINK TO THE GLOVES IS BAD. YOU SHOULD NOT USE LATEX GLOVES FOR HANDLING SLA RESINS! PLEASE BUY NITRILE GLOVES AND DON'T REUSE THEM. OVER TIME, YOU WILL DEVELOP ALLERGY LIKE I DID. I NOW WEAR EXTRA THICK, LONG NITRILE GLOVES TO PREVENT RASHES AND HIVES BREAKOUTS.
Nice video! I haven't built it yet but planned to. Do you have a heater for your higher temp resins? Thingiverse thing 3442165
@@josephulbrich7523 hello, where do you buy your long nitrile gloves at?
The slap mats are really nice, but a silicone pet food mat does exactly the same thing for a fraction of the cost.
This!
Or a silicone baking tray from Aliexpress.
That's whambam for you
Are there any in particular you can recommend? I’m very new to 3D resin printing
@@KornerGFX amazon basics silicone pet food mat 24”x16” for $16.
I really want to stress to anyone here that's completely new to resin printing, these are all luxuries and you don't really need any of them with the exception of gloves and paint strainers. I use and old trash bucket instead of the lunch trays and in my opinion works much better since the print falls in there and doesn't make a mess (you can see in the video how his print flies off of the lunch tray which also used to happen to me before I switched). Also in the timestamp it says latex gloves, but he means nitrile gloves. Do not use latex gloves they don't offer protection from resin. As for the pickle jar it works, but I bought some cheap $1 containers at dollar tree. The pickle jar will cost much more and sometimes not be as big. I just dump my print in there and shake the container. It works in much the same way that your washing machine washes your clothes. I would say start with this basic stuff first and if down the road you decide you want to give some of these other suggestions a try then you can start spending extra money at that point. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and I regret buying it. The lunch trays were useful but they're just sitting in my backyard now. The scraper is a good investment though. I bought one before I even got my printer and was worried I was making a mistake since I was new and didn't know what I was doing and people weren't really recommending them yet. Best investment I made. Mine is half the size but has a good slope and a very good handle.
Thank you so much for the advice! I already have an FDM printer, and love the print fidelity of resin printers. But the cost of all the equipment TH-camrs own, that I thought I needed is just so prohibitive. Your comment really helped me decide
whats the cheapest way to cure?
@@IGarrettIthe sun
And a cool tip from my GF who works in a laboratory :D Turn your gloves upside down while taking them off. That way you keep the mess inside. I just roll them after this and put them in a small zip lock bag and they get very compact. Makes it super easy to reuse and it's good both for the environment and for the budget. Thumbs up so more people can start doing this!
I have many of these same types of accessories but the biggest game changer for me was the UV flashlight. I use it for so many things.
As a new Saturn owner I can tell you how handy this video was. I didn’t really understand how messy this process was and all you tips went a long way in helping it be a better experience. Thanks!
The guys that make the pickle buckets must have been freaking out when their sales went up 10,000% when people started using them!
One thing that's also an amazing accessory is a water filter jug like the 'Brita' ones you put in the fridge - cheap ones cost like $10-$15 and once you've cured the resin in your waste IPA you can pour in into the jug and leave it a few mins to filter through and collect the cleaned IPA in the bottom (also obviously works for water used with water washable resin!).
They all hold at least 1.5 liters of fluid and it's a quick, mess-free way to recycle your IPA without having to stand there for a few minutes pouring into a funnel. Once the filter is full, new ones are only a few dollars or to be even cheaper you can split them apart and fill them with cheap synthetic bathroom sponge or cotton wool or whatever you want.
Hot damn dude! I am going to have to try that out!
I would think it would clog up withing the first run of ipa very fast. I tried coffee filters and It takes forever to get them to filter though.
That's genius!!
@@Sidbarret2223 If you use coffee filter, you have to use a mesh cone to hold it in. That way it doesn't just drain only through the bottom, this is why coffee makers have raised lines on the inside for the coffee filter :).
All you have to do is set it out in the sun.
A cool thing about UV lamps in general is that you can set these up for use-on-demand to cure resin and make them easy to clean/remove from your stuff, and by extension remove the need of excessive IPA usage.
I have a custom made entirely closed-off acrylic workstation equipped with the stuff (even has nitrile handgloves in airsockets, like I'm working in a lab lol), and its nice how easy and safe it is to clean it up when its all cured.
having those uv floodlights is also useful for safety. i typically blast my work areas in uv light afterwards to cure any resin than may have dripped or splattered without my knowing
same the uv lights are useful for cleaning up after. you can also get those silicon mats off amazon in large sizes. they are used often for pet food mats, resin jewelry mats , kidplacment mats.
For a funnel, use one of those collapsible silicone funnels. Much easier to clean and resin tends to just drain away for the most part as it's silicone.
Got one for $1 and a cheap plastic filter for another $1. They fit perfectly. Best money spent on upgrades so far.
I bought a stainless steel funnel that's got a built in paint strainer off Amazon. No hassle with messy disposable filters and I can just chuck it in my alcohol bath to clean it up afterwards.
My first Resin printer arrived today, so the timing of this video was impeccable.
Literally mine as well haha
Which one you get and hows it going?
Just run some hot, but not boiling water over the build plate, the metal will expand slightly, the resin will soften up and the models will slide off. No scraper or metal gimmick plate required. Helps supports come off cleanly too. Buy a silicone dog food mat for 50c instead of playing $40 and use an old jumper to cover the printer instead of $60 for a cover.
As an alternative/addition to the pickle jar, I ended up getting a salad spinner by progressive prep solutions for $12 from walmart. It's nice because there is a lever at the top that you pull spinning the colander inside of it. Comes in handy.
I got an Elegoo Mercury Plus and have been using it with the prints from my Mars Pro. It works great and is a lot easier to use than the pickle jar/ultrasonic cleaner and UV lamps. It makes the workflow much more seamless.
Alternate to the resin lid handles. Go to harbor freight and get a suction handle. I’ve had one on mine for almost 2 years.
I strongly recommend mini air purifiers as well, anycubic makes some that goes inside the resin printer housing while its running, it is great.
What a treasure trove of inexpensive, yet brilliant ideas to improve this process! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us ❤️
I just started resin and my buddy came over to help and I looked like I was ready for surgery getting my first prints prepped. He was amused. I never thought of the lunch trays but ordered some! Organizing the cleaning process is so important but then theres curing, I've experimented with actinic lighting (sub UV and it seems to work so far, very GENTLLY with no sun discoloration these are UV like lights for salt water fish tanks). Your advice has been epic, Im just printing because I like to paint and it relaxes me LOL no profit
On paint strainers and funnels, I picked up one off Amazon from Sovol. A stainless steel funnel with removable metal filter inserts, so you can filter the resin without having to constantly waste paint strainers. There may be a cheaper option, but that's the one I came away with.
One other item you might consider which I ended up buying after having some failed prints: a remote sensing thermometer. You get these in sets with a sensor that you can easily place inside the housing of your printer and then the temperature readout. At a glance you can see if it's warm enough to print and if not, you can warm up the area before printing.
You should add the cool mad scientist/villain factor with those long heavy duty gloves.
Awesome video.
REUSING IPA
Not sure if I posted this on this channel before. Using a cheap coffee filter is a great way to strain the recently expensive IPA, to remove suspended resin and particles. The IPA will still be discolored after straining but who cares.
that is a great idea!!!
Brilliant!
Any coffee filters?
@@Aestheticsauto I use cheap paper ones from Walmart, they're about $2 for 200 of them.
Brilliant!!!
Thank you for this video, I've added some of this to my repertoire just getting into 3D printing and my experiences have been extremely positive and I've been able to avoid some headaches that those that have been doing this much longer have encountered.
The chunky gloves is a great idea!!👍🏻
Chunky PVC gloves are easy to get... the nitrile versions are pricey!
I Just made a Quick design on Fusion 360 and printed a funnel for the resin to use with filters.
On the one hand, yes, I knew I didn't NEED a wash/cure station when I got my printer; but the amount of annoyance I've had trying to cure my crafting uv resin with flashlights/nail lights sold me. (That kind of uv resin + the clear version of "blue stuff" is awesome to recast broken model parts so you can finish whatever vintage kit you're building)
A soft faced vice (or vice with inserts) used to hold just the build plate while knocking prints off without having to re-level is really handy. (Some plate mechanisms hold better than others judging from comments online - leveling every time may be needed with less stable models. Caution to remount the plate mechanism to the arm in the exact same position should also be taken. Suggest keeping a finger near the stop icon after disturbing the plate when homing in any case.) Cloud cover can actually intensify uv levels by bouncing them back when it's not so heavy it blocks it to begin with. Checking UV index in local weather would be a good reference for those curing prints outside.
Your videos are so so helpful!!! I’ve just started on printing, but I’m using a large silicone mat. You can cut them to any size, they are way cheaper than the wham bams, and you get much bigger space and any color option so you can tailor to your resin color defaults so you can see it best. Like, I’m using grey resin and that’s hard to see against orange, so I’m using white silicone that’s semi transparent. So u can see if resin got UNDER the mat, too! :). It’s also heat resistant so bc it’s big, it goes under the whole printer, catches all the goo and I got a big one so it covers the side area too. But I’m new so who knows. I might be wrong. But I don’t think so. Those slap mats don’t make ergonomic sense to me.
The rest? I’m off to Amazon right now. I hope every single one of these companies sponsors you bc you’re a guy I trust and will def follow your lead!!!! Buying it all, lol
Well darn, I have almost all of those things (thanks to your previous videos). I do like the handles for the lid but I think I'll make a top mount single hand grip one for my smaller printer 😁
Don't forget an apron, to avoid resin splashes ruining clothes, or letting resin soak through your clothes and touch skin.
That right there is a comment based in real world experience. And it's 100% fact! My wife grounded me after 3 pairs of pants lol
For the Scraper, there are perfect plastic scrapers with changable blades. I use them since half a year and didnt have a Problem to get Prints from the Build plate since then
A wine aerating funnel usually includes a metal screen filter which can easily fit into a plastic funnel - this alleviates the need to use disposable paint strainers when pouring resin back into a bottle. (Of course this could be a problem easily solved through FDM printing with cheese cloth or another straining material.)
instead of plastic lunch trays, may I suggest metal cookie pans. You can get them at most grocery stores for 5 or 6 bucks and they work great. I line them with the blue fiber shop towels (seem to be more absorbent than standard paper towels). I've found that resin can make the plastic gummy and soft.
get a steel strainer with rubber funnel. get a long flat exacto like blade to remove prints
I would love to get the Wham Bam Magnetic sheet for my M3 Max, but $127 ($140 with Shipping) is just ridiculous for a sheet magnet and thin piece of stainless steel, on top of that, all orders it says are drop shipped from China.
Just realized you are from Upstate NY. I recognized that Rochester T-shirt. Really enjoy your videos. I'm in Braddock Heights, Greece NY. Just started another TH-cam Channel 3DSanbox, no content beyond one video ( not so good resolution, lol), but working on new videos around 3D printing and now got a Longer Orange 10 resin printer to experiment with next. I also have 6 3D FDM printers in my mini 3D print farm. Anyway, thank you for the videos!
you mentioned use'n a UV pen light to quickly glue two pieces together. Have you tried using a small bit of baking soda in those joints before putt'n them together? The soda causes the glue to cure almost on contact.
This is super helpful! I just ordered my first 3d printer last night. These are all good tips that I will take into account. Thanks from a fellow Rochestonian!
First thing I bought was the heavy duty gloves... I only use disposable when I need to do things that require precise finger movement...
And that flexible magnetic plate is genius! I just need them to be sold at my country xD
LOL I was like, I know there is a reason I used to watch Uncle Jessy and then I saw your shirt. I live in Brighton near East and Elmwood. I ordered a bunch of the cheap stuff on your list ;) Except the pickle jar - I have the SAME ONE for my old resin printer (just got a new one).
Large command hooks also make great removable handles. I prefer using plastic razor blades to remove prints. If you have a smaller printer plastic takeout containers are great for transporting things around. My food delivery uses insulated cardboard boxes that are reflective on the inside that make a great curing station. Definitely will pickup some reusable gloves and a UV flashlight now
6:19 I actually found these pickle containers at the dollar store. They're not huge but they're certainly big enough for minis and most things I would print.
The pickle jar is a cracking idea I wish I'd known about them, however I am soon to be in the possession of a self-stirring mug :) I own a Photon zero so it's going to do tiny builds
Great informative video! Especially for people that are beginning to get into the resin 3d printing arena. Your the best Man..love Your videos! Happy Holidays to You and Your Family!
I see you have the mandalorian code key in the thumbnail... 😆 so, could you pour silicon on the lunchtray and basically have stiff slap mat to move prints from one location to,the other, etc...
😂😬If only I had watched that episode before recording this video
Awesome guide - will revisit this once my Mars 3 arrives next week!
9:07 OMG I hate trying to use the tiny funnel with my paper strainers. Making the funnel stand up while holding the strainer and pouring out the vat requires 3 hands. 😂
I've found if you can build a box you can build a larger curing station. If you can't build a box you can just get a cardboard box and line it with aluminum tape. I have the same UV light he shows cut a hole in the top of the box that I could shine the light through and put a UV powered rotating display stand inside the box and that's how I cure all of my large prints.
As far as scrapers go I have a paint scraper but was afraid of scratching up of gouging the build plate so I actually sharpen a plastic scraper with sandpaper and have had zero issues getting my prints off with it
The lubricant you listed is unavailable for me. For whatever reason. Got any substitutes you could recommend?
@WilcoMR-S Ah nice one man. Love the printers, but it's a pain in the ass when you have flat based prints that stick to the build plate.
I'll have to get myself some to try. 👍🏻
Thanks for the tips, the handles on the lid are a great idea I have fitted a pair and they make lifting the lid much safer, the PTFE spray I have ordered not tried it yet and I have got hold of the Wham Bam build plate I haven`t used my printer yet only had it a week I am just prepping it for first use and this video was most helpful thanks.
a must for me to 3d print is a resin gauge and a plate angle adapter
Uncle Jessy is so helpful!!
PTFE lube is $4 at Lowes vs $12 on Amazon...
38.22 on Amazon where I am from
A lot of cool accessories and a bunch of great tips!
Thanks for the great list of accessories. You mentioned that you don't work with resins that smell bad, is there a brand that you recommend over others when it comes to not smelling bad?
I will be using my printer in a room that others may occasionally be in and don't want to stink up the place.
For safety it's not a good idea to use even the low fumes ones in living spaces. The eco-resins usually smell less, but still contain the harmful photoinitiator chemical that causes allergic skin and lung reactions with exposure over time.
Look for a way to either use the printer away from living space (like in a workshed) or build/buy a means to extract fumes, or at the very least make sure the room is well ventilated and definitely get a respirator rated for organic vapours, I use 3M brand mask and P2 particulate filter with A2 organic vapour filter.
Gonna have to try that Lubricant, first printers screen broke from parts sticking and falling off
10:38 also I recommend getting a 405 nm violet laser pointer (2 bucks on ebay). Although its technically weaker than the flashlight at 5-20mW, its much more intense and allows precise curing. That thing has kinda found a new purpose, as its useless as a pointer- its super dimm. In fact, 405nm violet is so close to uv that its just called uv
3:30 I actually just tweeted a photo of what happens if you leave your printer in the sun, even with the acrylic cover on. It want pretty haha Luckily it cleaned up easily.
This is really helpful! Thanks for making great content.
I may have to try those magnetic flex sheets. I'm having issues getting stuff off my build plate without chipping due to excessive force.
Question Jessy, could you consider a video with your top 10 resins! and explain its settings for best results and an explanation why you like the specific resin? I have a hard time with some resins yet my first transparent resin I bought from monocure somehow works better than the more expensive Photocentric uv resin in white.
Great video great options. I recently picked up a reusable coffee filter with the fine mesh like the paint strainers but much easier to clean and no waste at all. Cheers
You should invest in a solar lazy susan for your curing bucket. I just use one of those and throw it in the tanning bed lol
I really want to see some more epax e10 prints, I just preordered mine
Dude! How do ya clean the yuck off the cover? I can't get mine clean. Oh, also am ultrasonic cleaner vat! Holy crap what a difference cleaning off prints.
I've got that exact pickle bucket lol. I also got the flex plate, YES! I also got an aluminum vat. I have the photon mono, and it's got that plastic vat with proprietary fep. You recommended the vat, build plate, and I'm so glad I listened. I've not tried the fep lube yet, but I've only had 1 or 2 sticks, and they were on the old vat. Nothing at all with the new one. The ultrasonic bath though. I got it for under $30. It's a jewelry cleaner. That, the pickle bucket, and I also got a UV light that came with a solar turn table, and a kind of truss/scaffold thing with it. It was I think $25. So, bucket for extra alcohol, untrasonic bath, and the UV rig with the Amazon box it came in cut and foiled wrapped around the scaffold is my clean and cure set up, and it was maybe $70 total. Not the cheapest, but I was able to piece at a time it. The most noticeable things that have made huge improvements on my anycubic photon mono are, the build plate #1, then the vat, then the US bath. Can't recommend those 3 things enough if you've got the photon mono.
I would add:
- Funnels with filter
- Microfiber napkins (avoid paper towel to clean the FEP film)
- A FEP screen protector
@unclejessy sharpen the scraper on a wet stone, mine has an edge i can cut paper with, takes off anything, even stuff stuck on the fep without damaging it like a razor blade
i know how you feel UJ i live in up state NY as well and not only is sun a problem but a well heated room is my biggest problem lol
Thank you so much for your videos!
your video have gotten me so interested in resin printing I finally ordered one!
you are awesome thank you again :)
To make prints easy to remove, at little cost, take VOG's advice and print a 0.1mm box that covers the entire bottom of the build platform. Super easy to remove!
How deep does curing prints actually go? like if you printed a solid 6" cube and cured it then cut it in half how far inward would the resin be cured completely?
Has 3d printer, buys handles that can be printed≠compute lol. I mean with shipping 2-3 days and $8 for 4 I'd say cost savings and time to print/cure is worth it.
Or 10 minutes to a home depot/menards
I have a large lunch tray under my Transform just in case the fep might tear, didn't know PTFE was good for the fep, will try that, someone recommended a mold release lubricant but that can ignite when there is too much heat so PTFE might be better.
Rubbernaid Maximizer is a better scraper then oem one or a putty knife while not as wide it is super thin and allows me to get under the prints much quicker and easier. It is a bit sharper so watch out when removing and dont put too much pressure or it will scrape the build plate up but nothing that cannot be sanded down. Works super well. Got a wham bam now so it is retired tho
Great video Jessy. Very useful information.
At first i thought this was going to be garbage like they do with the filament printers: (new boards, rails and such to screw up your printer), then I seen you bring out real accessories. Nice. +1
Dollar store is great place to get funnels, pickle jars, and trays.
I use super lube for my FEP and I have never had a print stick to the sheet.
I'm likely going to be getting flex plates real dang soon.
couldn't find the link to the video about the lubricant.
The timestamp and timeline both say "latex gloves" whereas what is shown in the video (and what you want instead) are nitrile gloves. Not only are many people allergic to latex, but latex will inhibit the cure of some resins (rare) and platinum-cure silicones (always).
Those gloves! Reminds me of Dexter! Time tip chop down some bad guys
I’ve had a lot of success removing prints off a build plate using a sharpened wide flexible joint knife. Just wanted to share that.
I have an Elegoo Mars, but I'm looking for a bigger printer. What do you recommend for the next size up? Thank you!
Hi from russia, you can use PE gloves it's super cheap and dont react with IPA, polymer and aceton if you use ABS print)
Would love a review on different resin solutions for 3D printers! :)
I can really use ur help with my setting my 2 failed prints stuck to my FEP
I’m with ya bro I’m in Boston mass … I kno all about the overcast 😂😂
If you're in the US, Costco has 150 gloves for about 12 bucks, really good quality, thick gloves
Hey Jessy, The reuseable rubber gloves you link to don't mention nitrile anywhere... I always thought you had to use Nitrile gloves..?
What size ultrasonic cleaner would you figure on needing for something like that new EPAX printer?
I'd suppose something with a bath at least as large as your printer volume... I have one that is just sliiiiiightly smaller than my Mars2Pro and it works like a charm.
4:28 I'm sure it would be easy enough to print handles like that and use some double sided tape. I may do that. I don't have extra money to buy things I can make at home.
Hi, thanks for the great videos. I just have one question, when you store your printers as you mentioned on shelves, do you use extension cables and splitters to power them? I was just wondering if I need to add more grounded outlets in the area where I will store my printers.
Im curious why you have the two big lamps set up on the edges of that bucket when you have some kind of LED strips running up the inside of the metal bucket.
Using a razor scraper, instead of the crappy spatulas that come with the printers, also helps a lot with removing prints. For anyone who doesn't quite want to spend the money on a flex plate.
Also known as “time to make the Amazon Christmas Wish List”!😜
My printer arrives tomorrow but quick question about the metal flex plates.
When I put them onto the printer should I zero out the build plates Z axis with the plates attached.. attached
I never seen lunch trays in school in RL the only time i see them in a school has been in movies lol
Where is the Captain America Bust STL from? Love this model!
Is your office well ventilated?