Same. I ordered some more off of Amazon. I’m definitely getting more careful with every print, so hopefully I won’t scratch the hell out of it moving forward.
I have violated so many of these rules! Thank you for informing me so I can do better for my printer. Really appreciate the clear examples and explanations! Getting into Resin printing can be kind of overwhelming sometimes (especially processing properly and safely) so I appreciate the easy to digest video.
Those little swab wipes are amazing. I use them everyday. I've just started printing and you've really given me a confidence boost that I've been going about things correctly!
I like to use cotton balls soaked in IPA. So much more economical than wipes. Standard practice for first surface mirror cleaning, got to be good enough for this.
I'm a veteran 3D print user and I still learned lots from your video. Thanks. I especially like the rolling of the bottom of the FEP on your hand to dislodge stuck resin. I used the fingernail technique before.......... ;^)
A tip to clean your FEP from debris and irregular remains of supports in case of failed print Just expose the whole screen for 40-50 seconds with VAT filled with resin in place. Some printers like Elegoo's have this option in menu called 'Tank clean', some like Anycubic's have only 'UV Test' which do the same thing. That will make 1 exposed layer for the whole printing area - melted with all separate 'islands' of debris. Next, you can easily pick up this thin layer on any corner and it will go off like a glove cleaning entire FEP in one move. Works for me for months.
Yeah I said as much in another comment, it's a good feature, it's not on every machine though, some older unit's can't be updated to take advantage. Oddly enough last week I tried this on an Elegoo Saturn, the FEP was about 4-5 months old with good use, I popped it on for around 10 seconds and when pulling the resulting print layer away, it actually separated the layers of the FEP so it had a empty bubble in the middle. I'm sure it was either the result of too much heat or just the fact the FEP was old.
@@Armordonis >it's not on every machine though For older machines one may easily create special "cleaning" print file containing only 1 layer >separated the layers of the FEP I believe that FEP was about to kick the bucket anyway, 'cause pressure from removing single thin layer is way less than pressure from actual printning...
Excellent point about the usage of a raft/base. I tried printing some models without printing the raft and a tiny hole was created in the FEP rendering the FEP useless. Must now be replaced. Great tip about the usage of masking tape at the end of the video.
Thank you, answered my question about the middle of my FEP. It looks like the one in your example. Had a failure recently, and wasn't sure about using the edges. I've done a leak test so I'm confident enough now to do a test print around the edges while I wait for my new FEP sheets and vats to arrive a month from now.
I picked up a wash-n-cure station when I bought my printer. After pouring off the resin, I toss my entire vat in the wash station and let it run for a few minutes. Comes out looking new.
Wish I would have found this before I got my printer. First resin printer and I've had it 3 days. Done just about everything wrong (except overcrowding the bed) with no successful prints, and now my FEP sheet has quite a substantial leak in it (looks like it has a small split). Replacement sheets are going to take a few weeks to get here, which is probably a good thing as I'll have to stop banging my head against the wall with this printer for a while.
Brilliant! I had a part failure and a large flat piece stuck to the FEP, I tapped against it with my plastic spatula lightly and immediately went to my computer to search out a better way. Your suggestion is EPIC! the piece popped right off when I lightly pushed against the FEP. Thanks for sharing your discoveries, very much appreciated.
I do re-level my build plate before every print. I don't know about other printers, but with my Elegoo Mars it's a 1 minute process. -Loosen two machine screws that hold build plate. -Remove vat -place sheet of paper over LCD -in print menu, home the build plate -Ensure build plate is reasonably square to lcd -Tighten the machine screws -manually raise build plate (press Up 10mm 10-15 times) -Replace vat, add resin, and print. It's such a short process that it only makes sense to take the extra minute or two before your next print that's going to take 5-9+ hours to give yourself the best chance of a successful print. Especially if you look at it from a risk perspective. The cost of a failed print, in terms of printing time, resin, potential FEP damage, extra cleaning and repair time, far outweighs the cost of performing the re-level in terms of time. It also performs one of your tips, by removing the vat to prevent any moisture or air bubbles between the LCD and vat that might damage your prints. So, you can call it insane, but I call it a smart choice.
Insane was maybe a bit extreme of a word choice on my part :D If it works for you keep rockin :) That said not all levelling processes are created equal, some larger machines can take 15-20 mins for the same process, still maybe worth it. I'd look at it slightly differently though. To use another car example, I wouldn't inflate my tyres or balance my wheels very journey. If you have a successful print, then I'd lay off re-levelling for a few prints to avoid the risk of introducing a problem. However if it provides a piece of mind and you can guarantee it's all good then yeah your point makes perfect sense :D
Epics 'N' Stuffs if you removed your tires after every trip, and they were held in place by a single bolt, and they were a frequent cause of failed trips, I’d wager you’d check your wheel alignment much more often. My point being that most prints are a significant time investment, and taking a few extra moments to follow a few steps to give you the best chance of a successful print can save you the hours of re-trying that print after a failure.
That's my point, IF I have a problem I'd check it and fix it. Your point is a fine one, but the reverse is just as true. Every time you re-level, there is a risk it might not be as level as it just was (especially if the system makes the process harder, 4 point systems being an example). Many manufacturers advise not to re-level unless you suspect it to be an issue (the adage 'don't fix what isn't broken' comes to mind), I do personally re-level regularly (once every week or so) and I use 5 Mars' cycling twice a day. A couple of them I haven't re-leveled for weeks as they're printing the same thing perfectly, another I have leveled 3 times in the last week as the bolts seem to be getting loose. So yeah definitely take those extra few minutes to re-level if it gives you piece of mind and you're getting great results, but to others, especially people new to printing, be aware you may be introducing problems :) @Andrew Brannan - What you printing on the Mars, anything cool? Using any other accessories or additions or just using the vanilla Mars?
@@epicsnstuffs Fair enough. You certainly have a boatload more experience in the printing arena at this point. Right now I'm just using the vanilla Mars, as it's my first SLA printer after using FDM (Monoprice Mini) printers for a couple of years. I've backed a few Patreons, and am working my way through printing a few pieces from each to see which ones I'll keep backing and which ones I'll drop to make room for other Patreons. This video put you on the list of Patreons to look into.
@@abrannan I also have an OG Mars. I have re-levelled 3 times in almost 1.5 kg of prints. It needed it one of those times, the other two times I'm sure it was fine. You have to tighten the two fasteners in the correct order for it to hold right. I suspect I forgot that the time before the one it was certainly off level.
Hey Lance! I'm about to actually get started on the resin 3D printing in earnest. I made some beginner's errors on my very first print and ordered new FEP film. Took three months to get here! And only now do I find this extremely helpful video. Some feedback: Your delivery style is clear, informative, and accessible -- I especially dig that you embed exposition for the uninitiated novices watching. A lot of "how to" and "helpful hints" videos that are put out there by makers have an air of perfunctory haste, or don't condescend their vocabulary for the newbs to catch the thread, and I end up feeling rushed to follow along and gain the impression that I might have bitten off more than I can chew. Not you, sir! Thanks again for being not only a very talented artist with a great sense of humor, but also for being a great resource for picking up the hobby.
Wish I had seen this after my first print! I was told to just cure what’s left in the vat and then it will pull perfectly clean. Obviously not how it went and there were so many tiny cured specks. I tried everything… except for tape. Thank you!
I got my resin printer last Friday, used it pretty intensively (Printed every day, multiple times a day, had failures big and small, switched resins, etc) And my FEP was absolutely FUBAR by today. It even got a hole so I had no option but to use the replacement that came with the printer. I wish I had seen this video before, would have avoided making so many mistakes!
Got my Elegoo Mars yesterday and had destroyed the FEP in less than 24 hours because dumb. Amazon is delivering 5 new sheets and 2 backup tanks today. I definitely need this video lol
Excellent advice. I have just got my first printer, an Anycubic Photon Mono, and I am swotting up while waiting for my resin. I found this very helpful and will try to follow your advice.
About the removing failed prints from the FEP film; i personally use a knuckle since i can start pushing by the edge of the failed print, and get it off very easily. Picking it up using my nails (i have very long nails) or a plastic tweezer.
Great advices! One thing I wonder and not sure if it's a problem or not ... the first bottle I printed was opaque resin, so I didn't get a chance to see the bottom of the vat, but now I switched to a clear resin, and I can see that there are bubbles between the vat & the screen. They're not big or pushing the fep, but are visible - ie affect light reflection in some way. So I'm not sure if that is ok (especially after the build plate presses firmly against the fep for the first layer), or it could cause problems, and if it does how to fix.
3-in-1 Silicone lube can be used on the FEP to prevent prints from sticking. Sprits some on and use a microfiber cloth to spread it around the FEP. (Any silicone lube would work accept sex lube). PTFE lubricant can also be used however I do not recommend it as if you get a hole in your FEP or leak it can have adverse effects on your screen. Silicone lubricant will not. I do appreciate the "hand roll" method you use and will try it myself. Should one get a hole in their FEP, using a clear transparent packing tape, you can put it on the bottom of the FEP and cover the hole with it and continue to print. This is a helpful way to keep those prints coming while awaiting a new FEP film to be delivered.
Thanks for the quality advice :) I have only just started on resin sla after a period of time with FDM and it has been invaluable. Keep up the good work Lance.
What did you mean by letting the FEP 'breathe' by emptying the vat? Isnt' there still a layer of resin that will be sitting on the FEP? Unless you completely clean it?
To clarify, emptying it completely and cleaning it with something like ipa. If I remember correctly this is a recommendation by some companies, especially on larger FEP machines.
Im no pro but if there are little bits stuck on the fep sheet i usally cure the whole layer of the led for about 10 second then when i drain the resin i can take it off all at one and i know thet there are no little pieces left
I really appreciate your advice I just bought a creality Halot mage 8k and had about 98% failure rate! I think in my inexperienced way, I have damaged the fep and EVERYTHING sticks to it! New sheet I think
Just stumbled on this video and subscribed. Thank you for the tips. Recently new to 3d printing with an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, I just started hitting a few issues with my prints and this information on FEP maintenance is perfect. Noting your point on FEP thickness, I've heard where people cover their LCD screen with a 2nd sheet of FEP for protection. Is this something to do or shouldn't be necessary?
Hope you're having fun 3d printing Zed. As for the second FEP for a screen protector, it's not really necessary in my opinion, there are dedicated screen protectors out there which would probably work better. With regular maintenance and good practice you shouldn't get yourself into a position where the screen would be exposed to a lot of damage. If leaking into the screen is a concern, then you can always apply masking tape around the outer edges of the screen to act as a gasket or buy them off the shelf, again not really necessary though, I've never had an issue.
Quite good tips. I just got myself resin printer after using few years of FDM printers. First print went well, but I drained vat, I don't know actually why, but I then cleaned it with IPA and everything was fine. But now starting second print I noticed that how on earth my vat base is already slightly cloudy and immediately remembered using paper towel to dry the film. Somehow I didn't realize that it's so soft material. Bit annoying that manufacturers don't seem to but any warnings about avoiding scratching the film. I was planning to someday maybe try to actually use wash&cure unit possibly to solidify resin particles to the vat fep film and then simply tap that fep film to dislodge hardened resin. I think it might work quite well?
A lot of resin printers already have this feature, typically labelled 'tank clean' or 'vat clean'. It essentially exposes the entire vat to UV light, curing a layer which you can then peel off. It's very helpful and pretty economic considering you don't waste any resin in the removing/cleaning of the vat. However not every machine has the feature, but it could be replicated with a sliced file which prints a solid layer for a few seconds.
Hmmm not that I know of, any potentialy fix could end up doing more damage and take just as much time as replacing the FEP anyway, best to just replace the FEP for peace of mind.
Awesome information. Question. I developed a leak it looks like on my FEP and it created a mess on my LCD. This resin is hard and will not come off. I have watch other video's on how to remove it but nothing has worked. I tried alcohol and even acetone but its stuck pretty good. I have the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and have did about 18 successful prints on it except now the last 3 have all failed and this is how I noticed the mess on the LCD. Any suggestions on how to clean it?
Ive just done a print on my new mono 2 i use a raft on one print but the shape of the reft one side of if has left an indentation line could call it a crease but its not that bad for a crease but its just printed on my validation matrix front right across! Thisnis the first time ive ever seen this happen and fairly annoyed as only done 14 prints mostly test prints on this fep! Now needs replacing not even 3 weeks old lol gotta laugh or cry!
I’ve just bought a Halot One second hand. Would you recommend I change the FEP on it before I start using it? As I don’t know it’s history or how long it will last.
Hey, guys I really need help. I just got a brand new Elegoo Saturn S and I cannot for the life of me figure out why its not printing anything. All I'm trying to do is print thw basic rook model that comes with it, I have been trying for 3 days now. I actually want to cry. I've emptied the vat removed the vat releveled the build plate but nothing
I just use it, clean out ever 3-5 days, and dont worry about cloudyness until my prints start to fail. Then i change it. Mileage varies could be 2 mounths could be 5 or 6 with regular use.
@ Epics 'N' Stuffs Hi , I just got my first Resin 3d printer and iv cleaned my mono screen with alcool -_- Then iv seen online that it can damage the lcd screens did i just dommage my screen ? and is there a good way to not have cleaning marks on it ?
No using ipa to clean a screen if fine with infrequency. If you were doing this daily then you might end up damaging it but with only doing it every now and again then chances are the screen will die waaaay before your cleaning will have an effect.
The Elegoo vats are not designed to be 'disposable', at least not in the 'cheap and chuck' sense. They are meant as low cost spares/extras that allow you to reduce downtime between printing sessions and/or use multiple different resins without having to do a full vat clean when changing from one to another.
"Overloading" your build place is actually a good idea. With a nice big raft you actually have very even forces all along the FEP. Printing just one or two models is what creates uneven suction forces on the FEP. Using your whole build plate avoids uneven suction and uneven wear.
Err hmmm this is wrong. 'Uneven' suction or spread models is better as the FEP's have some flexibility built in. If I was the blanket the plate with a large raft, yes the suction would be more even but the suction and forces involved would be a lot greater with less flexibility which can be a big problem on larger machines, the wear is now 'even' but you have more of it all over the FEP, I'm not sure how that is better for it? Overloading is essentially cramming everything onto the build plate without thought to the mechanics involved. If all models are the same, then that's preferred, if they're different heights with different supports structures and all over the place then you're rolling the dice, it's fine to do it, I do as well just don't overdo it is my advice..
@@epicsnstuffs I think your missing a little bit how these printers print. And your mistaking the raft for the whole print. If you look at layer 50 or layer 100 of a print of several small miniatures (for example) there are going to be lots of tiny little islands as you are printing just the supports for future layyers or some supports and some pieces of the models themselves. Either way its going to look like blobs all across your plate. Better to spread them out then just concentrate them in one little area just because. Also don't forget your screen is a wearable item too. There is no downside to loading up your build plate. If you are good with supports and want to you can print models and parts two or three tiers high.
@@mikecif4123 You mentioed the raft so I replied directly to that case, spreading prints around is fine, never said it wasn't, never said loading the build plate wasn't either, I said avoid overloading. If models are different heights/sizes then suction can be less even, prining a miniature alongside a large bust will cause uneven forces, which can be fine but in some cases it won't. Forcing prints closer to the edge also runs the risk of printing in the weaker exposed areas which can cause lack of detail and potentially flimsy/weak parts of a print (worse on some printers than others). Yep I acknowledge the screen is a consumable, but again it's a balance of risks. If a overloaded plate fails then you'd just wasted resin, time, screen life and FEP life, play it safer/smart reduce the risk then reduce the cost. The video is coming form the point that people are newer to the hobby with some tips that might help more experienced people, you share your experiences which is great but if giving advice to a newbie, would you say go right for the loaded plate? Or start small and work them into the hobby? I think going knee deep instantly is a reason a lot of people end up with shitty early experiences.
@@epicsnstuffsI would say that if I was making a video to advise people how to preserve their FEP and optimize screen-to-print efficiency I would recommend a full build plate for sure. If newer folks in the hobby are printing pre-supported files, I'd tell them go for it, load it up. A lot of patreon and other paid files offer professionally supported files. Also a nice big connected raft is easier to remove from the build plate, if you are using the proper tool. It really bothers me that you are throwing out all this bad advice and then couching it with "oh well this advice is just for noobs". People end up with shitty early experiences because there are noobs on youtube pretending to be experts and giving bad advice.
@@mikecif4123it seems you didn't pay attention, I'm saying don't overload it, not 'don't load it up'. Them 'professional supports' that seem to always cause a swathe of issues up and down forums and Facebook pages. Everybody's experience isn't the same as yours, some of this advice will apply to some and not to others, hence my message at the start. A hobby that has a lot of variables, printers, resins, environments and skill levels, not all advice will apply, if you have a lot to share then I'd love to see some content on it. I favor consistency, I print a lot, I make/design the models, have had multiple successful campaigns, own a printing farm, get paid professionally for it and have worked on big IPs and I frequently help new merchants and hobbyists with success, with reviews etc... to back it up, so yeah I think I can say a thing or 2 with confidence.
I'm just starting to get into resin printing, and this was some great information. One thing that I heard recently was to use your wash and cure station (if you have one) to wash the resin from your reservoir/FEP. Thoughts?
Hmmm Yeah I get it works, not something I'd do myself for the following reasons. I want to keep my wash/cure IPA as clean as possible for re-use so using it to clean a lot of resin from a plate/vat is a quick way to get it dirty. Also when cleaning models or leaving the IPA in the wash/cure for awhile can cause debris to get kicked about, for example the force can sometimes detach fine supports that can then get blasted about. Resin, even in IPA will also go white/solid over time and can again get kicked up which could get on your FEP. Probably minor things all in all, depends on whats best for you I guess :)
Just got a resin printer and have already buggered my fep sheet, really should have watched this before
Same. I ordered some more off of Amazon. I’m definitely getting more careful with every print, so hopefully I won’t scratch the hell out of it moving forward.
@@stocky9218 . Well, THAT was helpful ! Moron.
Damn me too
Yes agreed, i have try make a lot scratch on my FEP lol
me too.
I have violated so many of these rules! Thank you for informing me so I can do better for my printer. Really appreciate the clear examples and explanations!
Getting into Resin printing can be kind of overwhelming sometimes (especially processing properly and safely) so I appreciate the easy to digest video.
I just started in resin printing and this is good advice I will put into practice. Thank you
Every single bit of advice is on the money, great stuff. Good to see a video on TH-cam which isn't filled with duff info.
Quality of this video hits WAY above your sub count. Clean video. Nice work.
As a Newb to resin printing, I found your advice both helpful and informative. Thank You
Those little swab wipes are amazing. I use them everyday. I've just started printing and you've really given me a confidence boost that I've been going about things correctly!
How do you use them to clean an entire vat? Use many of them?
@@TheMexicanSuperman1 gravity gets most of it out, then just a quick wipe
I like to use cotton balls soaked in IPA. So much more economical than wipes. Standard practice for first surface mirror cleaning, got to be good enough for this.
I'm a veteran 3D print user and I still learned lots from your video. Thanks. I especially like the rolling of the bottom of the FEP on your hand to dislodge stuck resin. I used the fingernail technique before.......... ;^)
A tip to clean your FEP from debris and irregular remains of supports in case of failed print
Just expose the whole screen for 40-50 seconds with VAT filled with resin in place.
Some printers like Elegoo's have this option in menu called 'Tank clean', some like Anycubic's have only 'UV Test' which do the same thing.
That will make 1 exposed layer for the whole printing area - melted with all separate 'islands' of debris.
Next, you can easily pick up this thin layer on any corner and it will go off like a glove cleaning entire FEP in one move.
Works for me for months.
Yeah I said as much in another comment, it's a good feature, it's not on every machine though, some older unit's can't be updated to take advantage.
Oddly enough last week I tried this on an Elegoo Saturn, the FEP was about 4-5 months old with good use, I popped it on for around 10 seconds and when pulling the resulting print layer away, it actually separated the layers of the FEP so it had a empty bubble in the middle. I'm sure it was either the result of too much heat or just the fact the FEP was old.
@@Armordonis
>it's not on every machine though
For older machines one may easily create special "cleaning" print file containing only 1 layer
>separated the layers of the FEP
I believe that FEP was about to kick the bucket anyway, 'cause pressure from removing single thin layer is way less than pressure from actual printning...
Excellent point about the usage of a raft/base. I tried printing some models without printing the raft and a tiny hole was created in the FEP rendering the FEP useless. Must now be replaced. Great tip about the usage of masking tape at the end of the video.
Thank you, answered my question about the middle of my FEP. It looks like the one in your example. Had a failure recently, and wasn't sure about using the edges.
I've done a leak test so I'm confident enough now to do a test print around the edges while I wait for my new FEP sheets and vats to arrive a month from now.
Hope it worked for you :)
I picked up a wash-n-cure station when I bought my printer. After pouring off the resin, I toss my entire vat in the wash station and let it run for a few minutes. Comes out looking new.
Wish I would have found this before I got my printer. First resin printer and I've had it 3 days. Done just about everything wrong (except overcrowding the bed) with no successful prints, and now my FEP sheet has quite a substantial leak in it (looks like it has a small split). Replacement sheets are going to take a few weeks to get here, which is probably a good thing as I'll have to stop banging my head against the wall with this printer for a while.
Hey man, you’re awesome. The tips really got me on track and the presentation was great. Keep up the good work!
Brilliant! I had a part failure and a large flat piece stuck to the FEP, I tapped against it with my plastic spatula lightly and immediately went to my computer to search out a better way. Your suggestion is EPIC! the piece popped right off when I lightly pushed against the FEP. Thanks for sharing your discoveries, very much appreciated.
I do re-level my build plate before every print. I don't know about other printers, but with my Elegoo Mars it's a 1 minute process.
-Loosen two machine screws that hold build plate.
-Remove vat
-place sheet of paper over LCD
-in print menu, home the build plate
-Ensure build plate is reasonably square to lcd
-Tighten the machine screws
-manually raise build plate (press Up 10mm 10-15 times)
-Replace vat, add resin, and print.
It's such a short process that it only makes sense to take the extra minute or two before your next print that's going to take 5-9+ hours to give yourself the best chance of a successful print. Especially if you look at it from a risk perspective. The cost of a failed print, in terms of printing time, resin, potential FEP damage, extra cleaning and repair time, far outweighs the cost of performing the re-level in terms of time. It also performs one of your tips, by removing the vat to prevent any moisture or air bubbles between the LCD and vat that might damage your prints.
So, you can call it insane, but I call it a smart choice.
Insane was maybe a bit extreme of a word choice on my part :D If it works for you keep rockin :)
That said not all levelling processes are created equal, some larger machines can take 15-20 mins for the same process, still maybe worth it.
I'd look at it slightly differently though. To use another car example, I wouldn't inflate my tyres or balance my wheels very journey. If you have a successful print, then I'd lay off re-levelling for a few prints to avoid the risk of introducing a problem. However if it provides a piece of mind and you can guarantee it's all good then yeah your point makes perfect sense :D
Epics 'N' Stuffs if you removed your tires after every trip, and they were held in place by a single bolt, and they were a frequent cause of failed trips, I’d wager you’d check your wheel alignment much more often. My point being that most prints are a significant time investment, and taking a few extra moments to follow a few steps to give you the best chance of a successful print can save you the hours of re-trying that print after a failure.
That's my point, IF I have a problem I'd check it and fix it. Your point is a fine one, but the reverse is just as true. Every time you re-level, there is a risk it might not be as level as it just was (especially if the system makes the process harder, 4 point systems being an example). Many manufacturers advise not to re-level unless you suspect it to be an issue (the adage 'don't fix what isn't broken' comes to mind), I do personally re-level regularly (once every week or so) and I use 5 Mars' cycling twice a day. A couple of them I haven't re-leveled for weeks as they're printing the same thing perfectly, another I have leveled 3 times in the last week as the bolts seem to be getting loose.
So yeah definitely take those extra few minutes to re-level if it gives you piece of mind and you're getting great results, but to others, especially people new to printing, be aware you may be introducing problems :)
@Andrew Brannan - What you printing on the Mars, anything cool? Using any other accessories or additions or just using the vanilla Mars?
@@epicsnstuffs Fair enough. You certainly have a boatload more experience in the printing arena at this point.
Right now I'm just using the vanilla Mars, as it's my first SLA printer after using FDM (Monoprice Mini) printers for a couple of years. I've backed a few Patreons, and am working my way through printing a few pieces from each to see which ones I'll keep backing and which ones I'll drop to make room for other Patreons. This video put you on the list of Patreons to look into.
@@abrannan I also have an OG Mars. I have re-levelled 3 times in almost 1.5 kg of prints. It needed it one of those times, the other two times I'm sure it was fine. You have to tighten the two fasteners in the correct order for it to hold right. I suspect I forgot that the time before the one it was certainly off level.
I've been watching/researching for weeks and I'd have saved a lot of time had I found you sooner - GREAT VID sub'd/liked
Great video thanks, just waiting for my first resin printer so these are all useful tips to consider.
The words of wisdom are much appreciated!
Super helpful video. I'm about to get my first resin printer and am a little terrified. This helped ease my mind a bit:).
Thanks for the info. Already knew this stuff but its helpful to be reminded. Keep it up.
Hey Lance! I'm about to actually get started on the resin 3D printing in earnest. I made some beginner's errors on my very first print and ordered new FEP film. Took three months to get here! And only now do I find this extremely helpful video.
Some feedback: Your delivery style is clear, informative, and accessible -- I especially dig that you embed exposition for the uninitiated novices watching. A lot of "how to" and "helpful hints" videos that are put out there by makers have an air of perfunctory haste, or don't condescend their vocabulary for the newbs to catch the thread, and I end up feeling rushed to follow along and gain the impression that I might have bitten off more than I can chew. Not you, sir!
Thanks again for being not only a very talented artist with a great sense of humor, but also for being a great resource for picking up the hobby.
Thanks for taking the time to post such a kind/positive comment :) I read it at the right time, thanks for the support and motivation!
Thanks for this, mate. I'm brand new to this and am taking lots of deep dives to help my introduction to this hobby.
Wish I had seen this after my first print! I was told to just cure what’s left in the vat and then it will pull perfectly clean. Obviously not how it went and there were so many tiny cured specks. I tried everything… except for tape. Thank you!
I got my resin printer last Friday, used it pretty intensively (Printed every day, multiple times a day, had failures big and small, switched resins, etc) And my FEP was absolutely FUBAR by today. It even got a hole so I had no option but to use the replacement that came with the printer. I wish I had seen this video before, would have avoided making so many mistakes!
The tape tip was awesome, thank you 👍👍
Found this video at just the right time. Great advice.
I had a spectacular failure overnight and this has been a great help in debugging - thanks for the great tips, really appreciated.
Thanks, this video clears up a lot of questions I had with my mars pro.
Got my Elegoo Mars yesterday and had destroyed the FEP in less than 24 hours because dumb. Amazon is delivering 5 new sheets and 2 backup tanks today. I definitely need this video lol
Excellent advice. I have just got my first printer, an Anycubic Photon Mono, and I am swotting up while waiting for my resin. I found this very helpful and will try to follow your advice.
Hi! Tell more about lubricants for fep film, what kind of lube can be used for this purposes?
Very good tips, I'm just starting 3d printing, and this video was 100% new information for me
Nice audio for headphone user. Nice editing too. I appreciate the effort
This was very informative! Thanks man good job
Great video. Super helpful tips! :)
Amazing advice, thanks for posting this!
Thank you. Wont the tape add adhesive residue to the FEP?
Great stuff. Thank you!
About the removing failed prints from the FEP film; i personally use a knuckle since i can start pushing by the edge of the failed print, and get it off very easily. Picking it up using my nails (i have very long nails) or a plastic tweezer.
Great advice. Thanks!
Great tips Lance, thanks very much!
Very informative, especially those couple of cleaning tricks. hopefully helps with the problems i've been having
thank you these are the best recommendations for FEP cleaning 💖
Should have watched this before tinkering. Feel like I scratched up my fep. Thanks for the tips
No worries! good luck printing :D
Great info. I’m guessing my FEP is stretched and that’s what is causing my fails. What’s the creature at 9:11? Love it!
Great video, good tips, too late on the paper towels though.😞 I used them one time and noticed the scratches so yeah, I don’t use them anymore.
If you get any resin on your skin dawn dish soap gets rid of it easily. Works on the build plate too for anything that's really stubborn to come off
Well done. Thank's for sharing!
Thanks that was so helpful for an absolute beginner like me.
Great advices!
One thing I wonder and not sure if it's a problem or not ... the first bottle I printed was opaque resin, so I didn't get a chance to see the bottom of the vat, but now I switched to a clear resin, and I can see that there are bubbles between the vat & the screen. They're not big or pushing the fep, but are visible - ie affect light reflection in some way.
So I'm not sure if that is ok (especially after the build plate presses firmly against the fep for the first layer), or it could cause problems, and if it does how to fix.
Super helpful! Thanks for this video!
I’ve got two real small dimples on mine. Just wondering if it needs to be swapped out.
3-in-1 Silicone lube can be used on the FEP to prevent prints from sticking. Sprits some on and use a microfiber cloth to spread it around the FEP. (Any silicone lube would work accept sex lube).
PTFE lubricant can also be used however I do not recommend it as if you get a hole in your FEP or leak it can have adverse effects on your screen. Silicone lubricant will not.
I do appreciate the "hand roll" method you use and will try it myself.
Should one get a hole in their FEP, using a clear transparent packing tape, you can put it on the bottom of the FEP and cover the hole with it and continue to print.
This is a helpful way to keep those prints coming while awaiting a new FEP film to be delivered.
Fantastic and informative thank you
Thanks for the quality advice :) I have only just started on resin sla after a period of time with FDM and it has been invaluable. Keep up the good work Lance.
What did you mean by letting the FEP 'breathe' by emptying the vat? Isnt' there still a layer of resin that will be sitting on the FEP? Unless you completely clean it?
To clarify, emptying it completely and cleaning it with something like ipa. If I remember correctly this is a recommendation by some companies, especially on larger FEP machines.
Thanks for the info!
Im no pro but if there are little bits stuck on the fep sheet i usally cure the whole layer of the led for about 10 second then when i drain the resin i can take it off all at one and i know thet there are no little pieces left
Great video. Thank you.
Useful stuff, thank you!
I really appreciate your advice I just bought a creality Halot mage 8k and had about 98% failure rate! I think in my inexperienced way, I have damaged the fep and EVERYTHING sticks to it! New sheet I think
Just bought your TMNT models from myminifactory. They're incredible!!!
thanks Kevin
Just stumbled on this video and subscribed. Thank you for the tips. Recently new to 3d printing with an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, I just started hitting a few issues with my prints and this information on FEP maintenance is perfect. Noting your point on FEP thickness, I've heard where people cover their LCD screen with a 2nd sheet of FEP for protection. Is this something to do or shouldn't be necessary?
Hope you're having fun 3d printing Zed. As for the second FEP for a screen protector, it's not really necessary in my opinion, there are dedicated screen protectors out there which would probably work better. With regular maintenance and good practice you shouldn't get yourself into a position where the screen would be exposed to a lot of damage. If leaking into the screen is a concern, then you can always apply masking tape around the outer edges of the screen to act as a gasket or buy them off the shelf, again not really necessary though, I've never had an issue.
Quite good tips. I just got myself resin printer after using few years of FDM printers. First print went well, but I drained vat, I don't know actually why, but I then cleaned it with IPA and everything was fine. But now starting second print I noticed that how on earth my vat base is already slightly cloudy and immediately remembered using paper towel to dry the film. Somehow I didn't realize that it's so soft material. Bit annoying that manufacturers don't seem to but any warnings about avoiding scratching the film. I was planning to someday maybe try to actually use wash&cure unit possibly to solidify resin particles to the vat fep film and then simply tap that fep film to dislodge hardened resin. I think it might work quite well?
A lot of resin printers already have this feature, typically labelled 'tank clean' or 'vat clean'. It essentially exposes the entire vat to UV light, curing a layer which you can then peel off. It's very helpful and pretty economic considering you don't waste any resin in the removing/cleaning of the vat. However not every machine has the feature, but it could be replicated with a sliced file which prints a solid layer for a few seconds.
Thanks for the great vid! It was helpful for newbs to 3d printing like me :)
Thanks super helpful for a new resin user!
I have to clean stuff off the FEP every time I don't often get failed prints tho any tips on how to stop this
This is a super informative video, thankyou!
is there a way o fix a tiny hole in FEP?Thanks
Hmmm not that I know of, any potentialy fix could end up doing more damage and take just as much time as replacing the FEP anyway, best to just replace the FEP for peace of mind.
Thank you very much!
Can you share an updated products list as UK masks link is dead, please?
Never had any issues using a plastic scraper. Some fails just will not come off without one. Tried every trick. Sometimes it just doesnt work.
Great. Great Video. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Brilliant video, I've learned a lot!
Awesome information. Question. I developed a leak it looks like on my FEP and it created a mess on my LCD. This resin is hard and will not come off. I have watch other video's on how to remove it but nothing has worked. I tried alcohol and even acetone but its stuck pretty good. I have the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and have did about 18 successful prints on it except now the last 3 have all failed and this is how I noticed the mess on the LCD. Any suggestions on how to clean it?
Good vid mate, thanks muchly!!👍
great video. thank you!
Thanks, super helpful!!!
Super vidéo ! Thank you very much !
Thanks so much! Very helpful!!!
Ive just done a print on my new mono 2 i use a raft on one print but the shape of the reft one side of if has left an indentation line could call it a crease but its not that bad for a crease but its just printed on my validation matrix front right across! Thisnis the first time ive ever seen this happen and fairly annoyed as only done 14 prints mostly test prints on this fep! Now needs replacing not even 3 weeks old lol gotta laugh or cry!
I’ve just bought a Halot One second hand. Would you recommend I change the FEP on it before I start using it? As I don’t know it’s history or how long it will last.
Would painter's tape work?
Hey, guys I really need help. I just got a brand new Elegoo Saturn S and I cannot for the life of me figure out why its not printing anything. All I'm trying to do is print thw basic rook model that comes with it, I have been trying for 3 days now. I actually want to cry. I've emptied the vat removed the vat releveled the build plate but nothing
Big respect🎉
Buen vídeo y buenos consejos. Gracias.
Excellet video, great tips!
Really wish I had watched this before I started printing. 3 days in and I’ve already pierced my fep
Amazing video. I wish I had watched this earlier!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent. This nailed it.
Great video and great advice. Hey what percentage of Alcohol are the IPA wipes you're using? 99 % is tough to find and are rather costly in bulk.
70% or 91%, readily available from amazon in a lot of places.
I just use it, clean out ever 3-5 days, and dont worry about cloudyness until my prints start to fail. Then i change it. Mileage varies could be 2 mounths could be 5 or 6 with regular use.
@ Epics 'N' Stuffs
Hi , I just got my first Resin 3d printer
and iv cleaned my mono screen with alcool -_- Then iv seen online that it can damage the lcd screens
did i just dommage my screen ? and is there a good way to not have cleaning marks on it ?
No using ipa to clean a screen if fine with infrequency. If you were doing this daily then you might end up damaging it but with only doing it every now and again then chances are the screen will die waaaay before your cleaning will have an effect.
The Elegoo vats are not designed to be 'disposable', at least not in the 'cheap and chuck' sense. They are meant as low cost spares/extras that allow you to reduce downtime between printing sessions and/or use multiple different resins without having to do a full vat clean when changing from one to another.
thanks very helpful
solid subscriber for a quality video
As a drummer I instinctively already followed most of these rules,...
"Overloading" your build place is actually a good idea. With a nice big raft you actually have very even forces all along the FEP. Printing just one or two models is what creates uneven suction forces on the FEP. Using your whole build plate avoids uneven suction and uneven wear.
Err hmmm this is wrong. 'Uneven' suction or spread models is better as the FEP's have some flexibility built in. If I was the blanket the plate with a large raft, yes the suction would be more even but the suction and forces involved would be a lot greater with less flexibility which can be a big problem on larger machines, the wear is now 'even' but you have more of it all over the FEP, I'm not sure how that is better for it? Overloading is essentially cramming everything onto the build plate without thought to the mechanics involved. If all models are the same, then that's preferred, if they're different heights with different supports structures and all over the place then you're rolling the dice, it's fine to do it, I do as well just don't overdo it is my advice..
@@epicsnstuffs I think your missing a little bit how these printers print. And your mistaking the raft for the whole print. If you look at layer 50 or layer 100 of a print of several small miniatures (for example) there are going to be lots of tiny little islands as you are printing just the supports for future layyers or some supports and some pieces of the models themselves. Either way its going to look like blobs all across your plate. Better to spread them out then just concentrate them in one little area just because. Also don't forget your screen is a wearable item too. There is no downside to loading up your build plate. If you are good with supports and want to you can print models and parts two or three tiers high.
@@mikecif4123 You mentioed the raft so I replied directly to that case, spreading prints around is fine, never said it wasn't, never said loading the build plate wasn't either, I said avoid overloading. If models are different heights/sizes then suction can be less even, prining a miniature alongside a large bust will cause uneven forces, which can be fine but in some cases it won't.
Forcing prints closer to the edge also runs the risk of printing in the weaker exposed areas which can cause lack of detail and potentially flimsy/weak parts of a print (worse on some printers than others).
Yep I acknowledge the screen is a consumable, but again it's a balance of risks. If a overloaded plate fails then you'd just wasted resin, time, screen life and FEP life, play it safer/smart reduce the risk then reduce the cost.
The video is coming form the point that people are newer to the hobby with some tips that might help more experienced people, you share your experiences which is great but if giving advice to a newbie, would you say go right for the loaded plate? Or start small and work them into the hobby? I think going knee deep instantly is a reason a lot of people end up with shitty early experiences.
@@epicsnstuffsI would say that if I was making a video to advise people how to preserve their FEP and optimize screen-to-print efficiency I would recommend a full build plate for sure. If newer folks in the hobby are printing pre-supported files, I'd tell them go for it, load it up. A lot of patreon and other paid files offer professionally supported files. Also a nice big connected raft is easier to remove from the build plate, if you are using the proper tool. It really bothers me that you are throwing out all this bad advice and then couching it with "oh well this advice is just for noobs". People end up with shitty early experiences because there are noobs on youtube pretending to be experts and giving bad advice.
@@mikecif4123it seems you didn't pay attention, I'm saying don't overload it, not 'don't load it up'. Them 'professional supports' that seem to always cause a swathe of issues up and down forums and Facebook pages. Everybody's experience isn't the same as yours, some of this advice will apply to some and not to others, hence my message at the start. A hobby that has a lot of variables, printers, resins, environments and skill levels, not all advice will apply, if you have a lot to share then I'd love to see some content on it. I favor consistency, I print a lot, I make/design the models, have had multiple successful campaigns, own a printing farm, get paid professionally for it and have worked on big IPs and I frequently help new merchants and hobbyists with success, with reviews etc... to back it up, so yeah I think I can say a thing or 2 with confidence.
I'm just starting to get into resin printing, and this was some great information.
One thing that I heard recently was to use your wash and cure station (if you have one) to wash the resin from your reservoir/FEP.
Thoughts?
Hmmm Yeah I get it works, not something I'd do myself for the following reasons.
I want to keep my wash/cure IPA as clean as possible for re-use so using it to clean a lot of resin from a plate/vat is a quick way to get it dirty.
Also when cleaning models or leaving the IPA in the wash/cure for awhile can cause debris to get kicked about, for example the force can sometimes detach fine supports that can then get blasted about. Resin, even in IPA will also go white/solid over time and can again get kicked up which could get on your FEP.
Probably minor things all in all, depends on whats best for you I guess :)