Mounting the FEP is like stretching a canvas. Its best to start your mounting screws in the center of the armature not the corners otherwise the center will loosen as you poke holes. This allows you to tug the corner to maintain tension if needed and makes sure that the tightest point of the stretched material is the center where printing most often occurs.
That process definitely makes sense but does run counter to quite a bit of "official" instructions of most of the printers I own. Fortunately with most things in printing, there are several solutions to the same problem. I do appreciate the clear explanation in mechanics of tensioning the FEP sheet like a canvas on a frame and I'll pin it to provide value to anyone else reading in the comment section
You are quite right, Dynath. Stretch from a point halfway down each side to the center of the opposite side, and then to the center of the two remaining sides, as with a canvas, rather than starting with a corner. I'm sure you know if you start with a corner, you can usually get the first side right-straight, but if you fail to keep tension on the second side, the line of holes can creep inward. Do that again for the third, opposite side, and you are, perhaps, setting the stage for a sag as you near the end of the fourth side...which would be pretty disappointing. Well spotted!
I have failed twice at replacing my FEP and was getting frustrated. Watched this video and 20min later success, this worked like a charm, very easy to do and turned out better than the original. Much appreciated Hiro!!
Awesome! Glad you liked the tip. It really shines with larger vats. Another subscriber swears by the cardboard frames for replacing FEP sheets on his Transform.
@@MrPeterMerkin How do you cope with the multiple staples perforating the model in the long run? It appears to me that this cardboard design is made to be disposable and replaced each time you change the film.
another tip i'd suggest is to not tighten down the screws in a circular motion. you should always use a "star" pattern to tighten things. you get each screw started and then tighten them corners first alternating from far corner to far corner all the way around the vat. you never fully tighten all screws at once you work them in slowly until all are tight.
I can confirm that this hack does indeed work, and not just work... It works 1000%. I've been 3D printing for a little over a year and have been using this tip on all of my resin printers and the results are flawless. Getting the perfect amount of tension is vital for a successful print and although I have suffered some print failures this was never down to the FEP. So, Thank you SO SO much for sharing this tip it has saved me a fortune on buying replacement FEP as I have been able to use a single FEP sheet continuously for up to a month if not a little longer before needing to replace. :D
I've just changed my Sonic Mini 4k's nfep film with this trick and it's awesome!! I got successful tensioning before without this with a lot of effort but still was not perfect. With this I got perfect tensioning, first try, effortlessly. You rock!!
The manufacturers probably have some kind of installation jig that helps them install them quickly and easily, something like an external frame that they can quickly clamp onto a sheet to keep it just right.
Just wanted to say thanks. Saw this video posted on an FB group. First time changing an FEP, followed your technique, and it turned out great. Onward with printing!
Now if the FEP sheet manufacturers got wind of this, maybe they could start pre tensioning and mounting the FEP on cardboard during manufacture. It would make their product much easier to use
imagine if they came with a slight gasket like a car motor head gasket or something. unscrew old, clean tray, pull new one from an envelope, screw it in, attach vat and fill. easy.
Thanks for putting this together! I've been battling this on my Saturns for a few weeks now... Such a handsy process. Would be amazing if there was some sort of clamping, sealing type process to bypass all these screws and also to minimize tension issues.... Maybe in time we'll get some major leaps on these things.
Good stuff! I came up with a similar solution using the vat and frame to do the same thing, just without stapling to cardboard first. The advantage to your system is that you don't have to worry about the FEP slipping while you're setting the screws!
Thanks! I basically had the same idea, just to use tape insted of a stapler. Your video convinced me, that my idea was okay. And yeah: today for the first time in my life I changed a FEP (on my Saturn 3 ultra) and it sits perfect at first try! 😸
Phrozen mighty 8k has the sandwhich style pretensioner for the fep -- purchased mine in february 2023. Gottta say -- the quality of the screws/threads is very tight. Maybe that means it'll last longer? But it's a PITA to change. Atleast they updated it to be less of a PITA though!!!
Just got my first resin printer, will remember this when the time comes to replace the FEP. i think I might try to design and print (on my FDM-printer) a frame for this purpose, maybe a two part one that clips or screws together to pretension the FEP.
Impressive ! Gave you a thumbs up and you got another Sub. I don't own a 3d resin printer maybe next year, but I need to learn as much as possible before pulling the trigger. This video was very educational and provided a necessary process that one should learn. Thanks for sharing.
I think, you can do the same (without the cardbord frame) if you didn't push metal frame into the VAT just before pokeing and screwing the FEP!. Simply lay the FEP on the VAT, then lay the metal frame on the FEP (without pushing it), poke the holes and screw the FEP in few steps (first just to hold the FEP in right position , next few steps to increase eavenly the tension )
As a drummer, this is exactly the same as tensioning a tom. I even tap on the sheet with my finger at each screw location to listen for identical tone!
Awesome, I went through like 5 sheets for my elegoo saturn because of how frustrating it was. I ended up sending the whole printer back and going back to FDM printers. Just a big nope... but I may try again one day because of this.
i came across ur method before i had ever needed to replace my FEP, so i have only ever used this and it works really well... i enjoy ur other videos also, many thanks for ur advice, glenn
Elegoo sell their vats and I'm pretty sure they fit most of the other brands that use the same format. You'll have to put up with a red plastic vat (unless they started selling the metal ones again) but they work.
guess i got lucky replacing ma first FEP but I also understand the logic in what you are doing here. nice idea! got a feeling it's time to change ma current FEP. will try this out
I love this method. The only things that made this feel sketchy was being told it wasn't sketchy and that manufacturers hate it. Make a cheap rig to keep tension on your FEP, and saying it is wat cheaper and easier than designing, printing or building a permanent mounting tools is making a disposable frame... I hate "company hates this trick" but I do love your content
It honestly depends on each printer vat and more importantly how deep the channel is. I've gotten either either adding a single printed gasket layer or two printed gasket layers to work on certain vats (sainsmart KL-9) because it was deep enough to hold them, but it also required I swap the bolts used to secure them to flat heads vs socket head ones.
Hey ppl so I'm new to this and I know this is an old video, so the FEP is similar to a drum head and if you go to a music store you can get yourself a head tensioner. I haven't used one but the other day I was tapping my Mars 2Pro FEP and realized that when I go to change it I will try it.
I just got an anycubic photon mono 2 and the FEP on that machine is AWFUL. They made the FEP have a plastic frame around it like you'd expect but both pieces are epoxy'd to the FEP. They also use really brittle plastic so you can't remove the frames at all or else they shatter. This means you have to buy the FEP from anycubic. I am sure someone will sell a replacement eventually but for now its just anycubic. I think I will model my own version of those frames and print them on my FDM machine. On top of that the 2 thumbscrews that hold the vat down are threaded into plastic, no insert or anything so they strip super easily. I wish I could explain how little torque I put on this thumbscrew before it stripped but it hard. The best way I can describe it is it felt like I hit a slightly mangled thread, it got slightly tight for maybe 1/8th of a turn and then was gone. So far I have not been happy with this machine at all. When the LCD burns out I am tossing it and getting an elegoo machine.
I have a question, with that level of tension, is there a risk of the FEP breaking? I saw in another video that they add a Post-it note block to create some extra space and supposedly prevent the suction force from breaking the FEP. How true is this?
Its definitely relevant for the double gasket vat designs (what anycubic and elegoo use) that pretensions the fep prior to install. With the cardboard method I mention here and still use a few years later, you will find that the cardboard is pretty flimsy and cannot be pretensioned at the same level as the aluminum gasket frames so its in a way like placing a bottle cap, sponge or other object to add that extra spacing. End result is my vats are nice and tight (so that nothing leaks out of the edges) and generally wont break prematurely and lasts roughly 30 to 90 days of non stop print farm use depending on how dilligent I am at keeping the vat clear of partially cured bits and not letting the vat empty during printing.
@Hiro this should work on the Sovol Gen 2 vats too, right? Everywhere you look, there's so much hating going on since Gen 1 was widely recommended by youtubers and then a silent "upgrade" to one-frame vats was made and most people hate them and say they can't change FEPs on them. You could possibly even re-title,keyword this video to include some Sovol mentioning or shoot another one on the Sovol Gen 2 vats if you have any as the only instruction I can find anywhere is Sovol's own.
I started watching the video and you showed the leaks, and I thought, "Weird, I never get that." But I have an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, and before I had an Anycubic Photon. I had no idea other manufacturers got this wrong.
Just a head's up guys this worked for the Creality LD-002R. The hard part was cutting off the extra FEP without ruining the good install.. I suffer from a condition known as extra buttery fingers when trying to do important tasks lol
Got to ask if this will work on the vats with 2 part FEP frames? Looks like the one you were using is just the vat and one part frame that bolts straight to the vat. My Mono X has a 2 part frame and I was just wondering if this would work on it.
This hack is actually designed to mimic the effect of the dual frame designs that the Photon, Mars, and Mono X use to hold the FEP before you tighten it down. So this hack is not necessary for you.
@@HiroCreations do you know if the Elegoo Saturn also has the two part frame? I'm also new to resin printing and the new manager of 10 Saturns (I know, right?) So I want to make sure I know how to not break them when the time comes to swap parts. We're actually doing the same type of printing as you! (Minis) We're doing it as part of vertical integration.
I'm curious... couldn't you get a similar effect by pulling the FEP over the edge of the vat and taping it in position instead of making a cardboard frame?
I don't have enough hours of tests done but it sorta works, but I noticed its really "brittle" as a print failure usually guaranteed a leak onto the screen.
Sadly no, the non stick nature of teflon type materials makes it really hard for tape to stay in place under tension, especially as you are tightening the FEP it ends up slipping at the worst possible moments.
@@HiroCreations ah that makes sense! I have an older Wanhoa i never used it enough to have to change it...then it all got packed up after a big storm and i don't kwow if it even works anymore...the 30m ethernet cable that fed the pi was faulty after the lightning and a phone and modem died that day so good chance the D7 and pi were fried too🤔
@@m3sca1 That is a bummer if both are toast. Though its fixable with a new Pi and a SKR 1.3 board (and a single TMC2208) and use NanoDLP to control the whole machine directly. I did that with a pair of old D7s and got rid of the old mainboard and updated it with something more efficient and quieter.
@@HiroCreations I'd certainly like to ditch the whole "using an IP address to access it". Was a bit clunky and at times i didn't know if it would connect or timeout...I'm gonna sub your channel and possibly hit you up for more info when i can get it out of the box again?
@@m3sca1 I feel ya, Chituboards are a another relatively simple replacement to install into the D7 that can get working with relatively minimal effort. I used one for the Photon mono mod video I did a few months ago. I'm definitely planning more videos as nobody seems to be talking about this sort of thing for resin printers compared to the massive volume of mods for FDM machines.
Sooner or later I need experience the 1st time to change my FEP, I hope with this method, it’ll work out so I can continue printing with the same quality as the old FEP from manufacturer ... :)
I love how so many youtubers say, “let’s get to it” only to take another 5 minutes before actually getting to it. And when I say “I love”… I mean it in the same sarcastic way they use “let’s get to it”
I love the vibe and style of your videos. I'm working on starting my channel, as well, and I wish you all the best on this journey, I think you've definitely got the right personality and content. I'd love to see videos on exotic colors or formulas, if you have any of those!
Drop a link to your channel in the comments, I am always up for supporting fellow small creators. I have been really blessed to be able to experiment and test with a ton of new experimental resin blends from an awesome new resin startup. I definitely have more resin content planned both for specifically about the resins as well as new things I learned about resins in general.
Mounting the FEP is like stretching a canvas. Its best to start your mounting screws in the center of the armature not the corners otherwise the center will loosen as you poke holes. This allows you to tug the corner to maintain tension if needed and makes sure that the tightest point of the stretched material is the center where printing most often occurs.
That process definitely makes sense but does run counter to quite a bit of "official" instructions of most of the printers I own. Fortunately with most things in printing, there are several solutions to the same problem.
I do appreciate the clear explanation in mechanics of tensioning the FEP sheet like a canvas on a frame and I'll pin it to provide value to anyone else reading in the comment section
That's the way I do it too but this hack might make it even easier.
You are quite right, Dynath. Stretch from a point halfway down each side to the center of the opposite side, and then to the center of the two remaining sides, as with a canvas, rather than starting with a corner. I'm sure you know if you start with a corner, you can usually get the first side right-straight, but if you fail to keep tension on the second side, the line of holes can creep inward. Do that again for the third, opposite side, and you are, perhaps, setting the stage for a sag as you near the end of the fourth side...which would be pretty disappointing.
Well spotted!
Then proceed to corners? or lateral middles?
What about using a drum head tensioner to get equal tension all the way around.
Information starts at 4.30. . . .
Underrated comment
Thank you
Thank you
Not all heroes wear capes.
Not sure why people would have a problem with him thoroughly explaining _why_ to use the tool before showing you how to use it..... 🙄
I have failed twice at replacing my FEP and was getting frustrated. Watched this video and 20min later success, this worked like a charm, very easy to do and turned out better than the original. Much appreciated Hiro!!
Video starts at 2:16
Shorten the intro, it will increase viewer retention. Good tip though!
thanks
4:16
Okay this is a wild and awesome tip! I’m 100% going to try this
Awesome! Glad you liked the tip. It really shines with larger vats. Another subscriber swears by the cardboard frames for replacing FEP sheets on his Transform.
It works perfectly
@Uncle Jessy everytime I see yiur pfp, I see Prince Sidon
Design and 3d print a jig for this on your FDM printer. I'm going to design one for my Saturn.
@@MrPeterMerkin How do you cope with the multiple staples perforating the model in the long run? It appears to me that this cardboard design is made to be disposable and replaced each time you change the film.
Thanks. This isn't weird, it's a practical solution to a complicated problem and it is really appreciated. Your thinking is in order :)
I just did this, first time replacing the FEP and it worked perfectly, Went in nice and tight. Thank you.
As a new person to resin printing, I am glad I ran across this video early. I think you saved me some headaches in the future! Thx subbed
Welcome to the amazing rabbit hole of an adventure that is 3d printing.
another tip i'd suggest is to not tighten down the screws in a circular motion. you should always use a "star" pattern to tighten things. you get each screw started and then tighten them corners first alternating from far corner to far corner all the way around the vat. you never fully tighten all screws at once you work them in slowly until all are tight.
I can confirm that this hack does indeed work, and not just work... It works 1000%. I've been 3D printing for a little over a year and have been using this tip on all of my resin printers and the results are flawless. Getting the perfect amount of tension is vital for a successful print and although I have suffered some print failures this was never down to the FEP. So, Thank you SO SO much for sharing this tip it has saved me a fortune on buying replacement FEP as I have been able to use a single FEP sheet continuously for up to a month if not a little longer before needing to replace. :D
I've just changed my Sonic Mini 4k's nfep film with this trick and it's awesome!! I got successful tensioning before without this with a lot of effort but still was not perfect. With this I got perfect tensioning, first try, effortlessly. You rock!!
would be cool if someone designed a fep-installation frame that can be 3d printed!
The manufacturers probably have some kind of installation jig that helps them install them quickly and easily, something like an external frame that they can quickly clamp onto a sheet to keep it just right.
I mean... I am very certain they don't have some guy sitting in a corner putting these in. This is definately machine work
Just wanted to say thanks. Saw this video posted on an FB group. First time changing an FEP, followed your technique, and it turned out great. Onward with printing!
Awsesome! Glad to hear the hack worked for you! More printer hacks to come :)
Now if the FEP sheet manufacturers got wind of this, maybe they could start pre tensioning and mounting the FEP on cardboard during manufacture. It would make their product much easier to use
imagine if they came with a slight gasket like a car motor head gasket or something. unscrew old, clean tray, pull new one from an envelope, screw it in, attach vat and fill. easy.
@@aunderiskerensky2304 Yes please
@@aunderiskerensky2304 oh yes please!
Thanks for putting this together! I've been battling this on my Saturns for a few weeks now... Such a handsy process. Would be amazing if there was some sort of clamping, sealing type process to bypass all these screws and also to minimize tension issues.... Maybe in time we'll get some major leaps on these things.
Nice idea. Also your explanation of how the different vats are assembled answered the question I was looking for. Thanks!
About to change my first FEP, this looks to be an awesome way to ensure I don't have a bad time! Thanks!
Good stuff! I came up with a similar solution using the vat and frame to do the same thing, just without stapling to cardboard first. The advantage to your system is that you don't have to worry about the FEP slipping while you're setting the screws!
It’s brilliant,let them hate you ,we love these hints ! Keep at it .
Finally a proper tip for installing the FEP, thank you!
You have no idea how happy I am to see a new video from you in my notifications!
I am slowly coming back online. So hopefully I will be more visible on the feeds
Thanks! I basically had the same idea, just to use tape insted of a stapler. Your video convinced me, that my idea was okay. And yeah: today for the first time in my
life I changed a FEP (on my Saturn 3 ultra) and it sits perfect at first try! 😸
Phrozen mighty 8k has the sandwhich style pretensioner for the fep -- purchased mine in february 2023. Gottta say -- the quality of the screws/threads is very tight. Maybe that means it'll last longer? But it's a PITA to change. Atleast they updated it to be less of a PITA though!!!
Just got my first resin printer, will remember this when the time comes to replace the FEP. i think I might try to design and print (on my FDM-printer) a frame for this purpose, maybe a two part one that clips or screws together to pretension the FEP.
Great idea. I was afraid of trying to change my fep, but not anymore
Impressive ! Gave you a thumbs up and you got another Sub. I don't own a 3d resin printer maybe next year, but I need to learn as much as possible before pulling the trigger. This video was very educational and provided a necessary process that one should learn. Thanks for sharing.
Worked great on an Anycubic Photon M3. Just split the plastic original into the two halves and then did the trick....
Hold up, Anycubic is using plastic gaskets for machine as large as the M3?
I think, you can do the same (without the cardbord frame) if you didn't push metal frame into the VAT just before pokeing and screwing the FEP!. Simply lay the FEP on the VAT, then lay the metal frame on the FEP (without pushing it), poke the holes and screw the FEP in few steps (first just to hold the FEP in right position , next few steps to increase eavenly the tension )
As a drummer, this is exactly the same as tensioning a tom. I even tap on the sheet with my finger at each screw location to listen for identical tone!
sounds great, haven't had the need to change my FEP sheet yet but I will try to remember the trick
Elegoo Mars owner here. Thanks for stating that the hack is not useful for me. Thumbs up on the video for that.
Don't have a printer yet, but I watch all the vids I can. This is a GREAT video!!!! I'm now subscribed. THANKS!!!!
Awesome, I went through like 5 sheets for my elegoo saturn because of how frustrating it was. I ended up sending the whole printer back and going back to FDM printers. Just a big nope... but I may try again one day because of this.
simply genious... great engineering solutions come from simple ideas like this... practial, low cost and efectice
i came across ur method before i had ever needed to replace my FEP, so i have only ever used this and it works really well... i enjoy ur other videos also, many thanks for ur advice, glenn
Elegoo sell their vats and I'm pretty sure they fit most of the other brands that use the same format. You'll have to put up with a red plastic vat (unless they started selling the metal ones again) but they work.
guess i got lucky replacing ma first FEP
but I also understand the logic in what you are doing here.
nice idea!
got a feeling it's time to change ma current FEP.
will try this out
That power armor is amazing!
I love this method. The only things that made this feel sketchy was being told it wasn't sketchy and that manufacturers hate it.
Make a cheap rig to keep tension on your FEP, and saying it is wat cheaper and easier than designing, printing or building a permanent mounting tools is making a disposable frame...
I hate "company hates this trick" but I do love your content
I also hate click-bait titles like, the TRUTH about..., or before you buy, you HAVE to watch this. Gets old.
this is actually pretty sick. Thanks man.
DUDE: this hack is SIMPLY AWESOME AND THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!
Awesome hack for keeping the FEP taught while installing it onto the vat!
Thanks! :)
I wonder if we could 3D-print a second layer for those one-part vat frames, enabling pre-tensioning.
It honestly depends on each printer vat and more importantly how deep the channel is. I've gotten either either adding a single printed gasket layer or two printed gasket layers to work on certain vats (sainsmart KL-9) because it was deep enough to hold them, but it also required I swap the bolts used to secure them to flat heads vs socket head ones.
Great hack buddy. I'll definetly try it when I change my FEP sheet and I will give you a shout.
I tried the gatorade cap technique- seems the tension i have is still too tight; wasted 3 sheets already.. any suggestions?
Hey ppl so I'm new to this and I know this is an old video, so the FEP is similar to a drum head and if you go to a music store you can get yourself a head tensioner. I haven't used one but the other day I was tapping my Mars 2Pro FEP and realized that when I go to change it I will try it.
I just got an anycubic photon mono 2 and the FEP on that machine is AWFUL. They made the FEP have a plastic frame around it like you'd expect but both pieces are epoxy'd to the FEP. They also use really brittle plastic so you can't remove the frames at all or else they shatter. This means you have to buy the FEP from anycubic. I am sure someone will sell a replacement eventually but for now its just anycubic. I think I will model my own version of those frames and print them on my FDM machine. On top of that the 2 thumbscrews that hold the vat down are threaded into plastic, no insert or anything so they strip super easily. I wish I could explain how little torque I put on this thumbscrew before it stripped but it hard. The best way I can describe it is it felt like I hit a slightly mangled thread, it got slightly tight for maybe 1/8th of a turn and then was gone. So far I have not been happy with this machine at all. When the LCD burns out I am tossing it and getting an elegoo machine.
Video starts at 2:50 very useful.
I have a question, with that level of tension, is there a risk of the FEP breaking? I saw in another video that they add a Post-it note block to create some extra space and supposedly prevent the suction force from breaking the FEP. How true is this?
Its definitely relevant for the double gasket vat designs (what anycubic and elegoo use) that pretensions the fep prior to install.
With the cardboard method I mention here and still use a few years later, you will find that the cardboard is pretty flimsy and cannot be pretensioned at the same level as the aluminum gasket frames so its in a way like placing a bottle cap, sponge or other object to add that extra spacing.
End result is my vats are nice and tight (so that nothing leaks out of the edges) and generally wont break prematurely and lasts roughly 30 to 90 days of non stop print farm use depending on how dilligent I am at keeping the vat clear of partially cured bits and not letting the vat empty during printing.
When is it best to know when the FEP needs changing?
@Hiro this should work on the Sovol Gen 2 vats too, right? Everywhere you look, there's so much hating going on since Gen 1 was widely recommended by youtubers and then a silent "upgrade" to one-frame vats was made and most people hate them and say they can't change FEPs on them.
You could possibly even re-title,keyword this video to include some Sovol mentioning or shoot another one on the Sovol Gen 2 vats if you have any as the only instruction I can find anywhere is Sovol's own.
I'm going to have to try that.
2 words… Embroidery hoop.
They make rectangular ones. It would put some tension on the FEP sheet without having to staple holes in it.
this seem realy interestig, but arent there problems with copyrights ?
I started watching the video and you showed the leaks, and I thought, "Weird, I never get that." But I have an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, and before I had an Anycubic Photon. I had no idea other manufacturers got this wrong.
Yup, and the irony is that the same manufacturers are still getting it wrong on vat design with their newer mono screen interations.
Just a head's up guys this worked for the Creality LD-002R. The hard part was cutting off the extra FEP without ruining the good install.. I suffer from a condition known as extra buttery fingers when trying to do important tasks lol
Nice, I’ve found a video with the same trick in the usb key of my SLA. About 2 years ago.
I just tape the extra FEP to the vat using packing tape before adding and screwing down the the frame.
Does this work for large printers like phenom L?
Got to ask if this will work on the vats with 2 part FEP frames? Looks like the one you were using is just the vat and one part frame that bolts straight to the vat. My Mono X has a 2 part frame and I was just wondering if this would work on it.
This hack is actually designed to mimic the effect of the dual frame designs that the Photon, Mars, and Mono X use to hold the FEP before you tighten it down. So this hack is not necessary for you.
@@HiroCreations do you know if the Elegoo Saturn also has the two part frame? I'm also new to resin printing and the new manager of 10 Saturns (I know, right?)
So I want to make sure I know how to not break them when the time comes to swap parts. We're actually doing the same type of printing as you! (Minis) We're doing it as part of vertical integration.
@@PuckLokin you'll be fine, I can't speak for newer batches of Saturn's but the older batches used a dual gasket to pretension the FEP.
I'm curious... couldn't you get a similar effect by pulling the FEP over the edge of the vat and taping it in position instead of making a cardboard frame?
very good point
Ha. You are so much fun to watch and listen to.
I have tiny little pieces of resin cured my feb sheet. Is there any way to remove that?
Amazing hack. Thanks for sharing.
Just changed FEP on sonic mini 4k... Wish I found this yesterday... now to wait for new sheets to arive...
what a life saver man, thanks a lot
video starts at 4:32 ADS? is this why a 1min video is 8+min long?
wow... this makes me so happy to have an elegoo.
Simple and makes perfect sense
The sensual hand grab got you a sub. lol 😂
Thanks you so much, useful hack for my Halot One Pro
Try turning off your auto exposure on your camera - it would make your jump cuts a little smoother and stop the drifting light intensity.
Aye I think I mostly resolved that in newer videos. Still learning this camera thing. :)
what's your opinion on the PET/EVA laminating pouches hack?
I don't have enough hours of tests done but it sorta works, but I noticed its really "brittle" as a print failure usually guaranteed a leak onto the screen.
you only have 8k subs!? You deserve more!! Your vids are super helpful and awesome!
Fantastic, simple hack!
Awesome tip, thank you
No problem!
Orange 4k uses 2 gaskets. So, thanks for the tip!!
just tried ur trick... hope i did it right... fingers crossed for no leaks. Wish me luck! lol
Have print 6,5kg with the Mars Pro 2 wth the first FEP and it is also good now - don't have to change it often like you.
Man that is great how you found this ideal. I would never though of this. Great job 👏
DUDE. BEST. HACK. EVER.
So simple and yet so efficient ! I was searching for a way to get the good tension on my LD 002R vat, gotta try that one ! Thanks
Did it work for you?
great idea
Thank you so much! I'm finally getting prints again :)
Brilliant! Just about to try it now. Liked & subscribed - thanks for the vid.
Work this for mono x too?
You can just put double-sided scotch tape on the flat ring, stick the fep to it, then bolt it to the vat
I guess you could use tape as well in place of staples. Good tip
Sadly no, the non stick nature of teflon type materials makes it really hard for tape to stay in place under tension, especially as you are tightening the FEP it ends up slipping at the worst possible moments.
@@HiroCreations ah that makes sense! I have an older Wanhoa i never used it enough to have to change it...then it all got packed up after a big storm and i don't kwow if it even works anymore...the 30m ethernet cable that fed the pi was faulty after the lightning and a phone and modem died that day so good chance the D7 and pi were fried too🤔
@@m3sca1 That is a bummer if both are toast. Though its fixable with a new Pi and a SKR 1.3 board (and a single TMC2208) and use NanoDLP to control the whole machine directly. I did that with a pair of old D7s and got rid of the old mainboard and updated it with something more efficient and quieter.
@@HiroCreations I'd certainly like to ditch the whole "using an IP address to access it". Was a bit clunky and at times i didn't know if it would connect or timeout...I'm gonna sub your channel and possibly hit you up for more info when i can get it out of the box again?
@@m3sca1 I feel ya, Chituboards are a another relatively simple replacement to install into the D7 that can get working with relatively minimal effort. I used one for the Photon mono mod video I did a few months ago.
I'm definitely planning more videos as nobody seems to be talking about this sort of thing for resin printers compared to the massive volume of mods for FDM machines.
Sooner or later I need experience the 1st time to change my FEP, I hope with this method, it’ll work out so I can continue printing with the same quality as the old FEP from manufacturer ... :)
i used this trick and it worked. thank you
Glad the trick worked out for you! :)
@@HiroCreations just used your trick again. worked again :)
@dumbcat Awesome! Glad the trick still holds up.
Hey Hiro (Yasu) I’m new to your channel. Thank you for your educational tips!
Glad to have you here! Hopefully the new resin print tips is helping make printing easier for you.
I bought a New frame after messing 2 fep sheets and now I hate myself for not findings this video before
Where do you all buy your FEP? Seems there are a million suppliers out there and a million different levels of quality and repeatability.
why cant you use that on a elegoo mars ???
The Mars and Photon already have the vat frames designed to do the same pretension as my cardboard trick--so no need to duplicate the same effort.
@@HiroCreations got yah
Great ideas are always simple...nice one!
5:02 Lol at how you stroked that, and then quickly grabbed it. Should I try this with a date? ;D
I love how so many youtubers say, “let’s get to it” only to take another 5 minutes before actually getting to it.
And when I say “I love”… I mean it in the same sarcastic way they use “let’s get to it”
I love the vibe and style of your videos. I'm working on starting my channel, as well, and I wish you all the best on this journey, I think you've definitely got the right personality and content.
I'd love to see videos on exotic colors or formulas, if you have any of those!
Drop a link to your channel in the comments, I am always up for supporting fellow small creators.
I have been really blessed to be able to experiment and test with a ton of new experimental resin blends from an awesome new resin startup. I definitely have more resin content planned both for specifically about the resins as well as new things I learned about resins in general.
worked sooo good! Thanks a lot!!