My Friend. You are the single best TH-cam video creator on earth. Simple, 4 major issues covered, no faff, no filler, no addressing your haters for the first 8 minutes, just solutions, listed in likely order. You solved our problems, the effing temperature. NOWHERE anywhere does anyone say temperature. NOONE anywhere says the tension of the FEP in any detail, just "Make sure it's attached, because mine is on and attached" type of BS vagueness, and you, you tell us the Frequency you legend! I'm not being sarcastic, genuinely mate, thankyou. I can't believe you didn't say the TH-cam trolling sentence of the century "It worked for me". so relieved, it's been all Autumn, and Winter, to learn it's been too cold for resin and that was even a thing at all.
Thanks! To be fair I picked up a ton of stuff with resin printing that nobody on youtube or the rest of the internet is talking about when I started doing a ton of beta testing of printers and various resins and I figured it would be good to create a video that troubleshoots those issues in the order of how commonly I experienced them. I just need to sit down and record more video for the other things like support, dealing with bigger resin printers (yup, they introduce all sorts of new issues that the small 5.5" machine don't deal with) etc.
it is a great idea. my only thought it what if you vat is wider then his? Or its using a thicker material? would these two things lower the hertz at all? In my mind it would... twice the width would be half the hertz?
@@colmboorman neither of those things would affect the measurement of frequency on hz. It’s only to insure proper tension so as tension increases so does the hz and the numbers will always be accurate
@@brawlerbros2146I think I would need to see a example as I see it like a guitar string. The longer it is the lower the frequency. The thicker it is lowers the frequency. The same with drum skins... Wider drum lower frequency. Unless there is something I'm not seeing here?
@@brawlerbros2146 i got the below from education.org as I think it words it better than I can. "Drums with larger heads (drum surfaces) take longer to wobble back and forth, creating slower vibrations and a lower pitch. If you gave one of your drums a thicker surface or a looser surface, it would also take longer to bounce and would make a deeper sound." So to me wider or thicker FEP would effect the Hz. That's where I am with this unless there is something else I'm missing?
On a Mono X ( for small light items ) I use 2 bottom layers @ 20 seconds each, and a 1.5 second layer time. 80% power. No issues perfectly detailed with no elephants foot 👍🏼 perfect for model bases and such printed flat. ✌🏼
I just wanted to thank you for this video. I just got into resin printing a few days ago. Had my first sample come out flawless. Every one since has failed.
Ambient temperature has been a big one for me being based in the UK. I have a heater set up that oscillates keeping it around 25°c. Since doing this I rarely have a failed print.
Great content here and presented in an understandable way without any nonesense. Keep going this way. As you asked for other tips to improve adhesion to the build plate: A common tip is to sand it with sand paper (fixing the sandpaper to a perfectly flat surface like a glass pane to keep the sanding even). The second tip is to use a non-FEP sheet (from epax for example) to which the resin does attache less than to other fep sheets that come with most of the common printers.
+1 For mentioning ambient temp. So many people overlook this factor. I live in Ohio and it has definitely played a factor in both FDM and resin printing for me.
Also having issues with my Fauxton! I am going to be looking into temps. I think I will built and enclosure big enough for my FDM and resin printer to run together and see if it helps. I live on the Oregon coast so I am thinking the temp is the issue
Got my Creality Halot One last week, and was seriously considering just giving up and selling it again. Had just 1 succesful print in the whole week, all others failed. Truly stoked to try your tips, maybe it'll help me keep the printer around a bit longer...
@@tonybloodloss Though getting more consistent results, mostly through using another type of resin, I must say my interest in printing has dropped severely in the past few months. But the printer in it self is fine now!
I received my Elegoo Mars Pro on Saturday and although I followed the setup instructions carefully, watched videos of others doing setup, sadly, virtually all of my prints failed (stuck to the FEP). I came across your video last night, followed your advice and just came down to two beautiful looking prints hanging off my build plate!! (I think increasing the bottom layer exposure is what did it). Thank you so much for making this video!
Tanka you. Gonna try to tighten my fep. I’m guessing that a larger 10” LCD of the Harlot Mage needs to lift higher (8mm) and has a lower drum frequency. Fingers crossed. Cones of calibration broke off, soIhope this solves my problem. Love your vids.
Don't forget that as printers age the UV LEDs get dimmer. So you may not be able to keep the same exposure across the life of the printer and less exposure can cause print failure. As well, especially with the thixotropic resins that need to be heated above ambient, if the LCD gets too hot (first that's bad for it) but the LCD crystals start to blacken. Your eye can't often see this until it gets really bad/hot but long before it gets bad enough to detect it can effect how much light is getting through. So again your exposure goes down.
As a fairly new resin 3D printer something I have found is that eventually you will need to replace your FEP sheet. Use disposable microfiber cloths to clean it. DO NOT use paper towels, they scratch your FEP and drastically reduce your FEP’s lifespan. Also PFTE lubricant is a good idea. The brand I use is 3-in-1 that comes in a teal colored bottle. I had a FEP puncture because of this and I had to remove cured resin from my LCD screen which was a huge pain. Edit: also my FEP was not tight enough from the manufacturer.
Thanks for your tip about frequency. I have a Mono X, since the vat is bigger the frequency cannot be the same as a photon like vat. Did you already measured a proper value for a big size vat?
Never had my base layer exposure time as high as you recommend in the video though. I use 12 seconds for the base layers and 2 seconds for the rest of the layers and it's never been an issue for me. My printer was having the problem of builds sticking to the build plate too well and I had so many issues getting them off. I bought a flexible plate to remedy that. Then I had an issue with the flexible build plate being too smooth and nothing was sticking to it. Had to hit it with a 300 grit wet sand to add some texture to it and haven't had any issues since then.
Hopefully this helps, i already run my prints at 70 seconds, dont have too much of an issue with smaller models like miniatures for D&D but i tried making a small building recently and the corners of the building get lifted and the base isnt level, of course it corrected itself after a few more layers so the rest of it looks great but now i gotta make a roof for it and that probably wont cut it
If the part is peeling off the edges is sounds like your light source is not consistent and has "hot spot" in the center, two ways to fix that is to bump up the cure time to get the edges to stick (while overcuring anything in the center) or depending on your printer create a image mask that will even out the light distribution but at the cost of much longer cure times.
I'm in non-adhesion hell right now so I'm searching around for ideas of things to try. Your video seems like good advice. I've already been super careful with bed levelling. You don't mention whether machine levelling is critical but I'm going to play with that. My problems really started when I changed the FEP in my tank, though, so I'm wondering if my FEP is too loose. It doesn't feel loose but perhaps it is. I'll see if I can find a suitable app for measuring the frequency when I ping it. You also say that base layer exposure time is critical. It seemed like you were saying that if this is the issue then perhaps it needs to expose longer. But is it possible to expose *too* long? Thanks for the tips. These issues are getting me down. It's good to have someone out there to help.
So an alternate test to determine if the FEP sheet is too loose is to also increase the raise height. A tight FEP sheet means it peels off the part faster where a loose FEP will stick and never quite peel off when the build plate lifts--lifting it higher than 10mm means its definitely too loose. For the most part exposing the base layers in ranges of 60-90 seconds should not cause any issues to the LCD for the first 6-8 layers Where you might run into issues is over exposing your regular layers for hours. Machine leveling is definitely important but I found in most cases its a contributing factor with one of the other variables I mention in the video, the only case where machine level alone causes failures is if the build plate is too far away from the LCD/FEP to allow the resin to form good suction on the build plate. Hopefully that helps :)
Hiro Creations It does, thanks. I checked my FEP tension and it “rings” at about 452 Hz. So I don’t think it’s too loose. Too tight perhaps but that shouldn’t stop it peeling right?
Thanks for this, I had this very issue, and I found the problem being what I had cleaned the build plate with, I did use a very good quality paper kitchen towel. But, I have now changed to an old toothbrush and cotton cloth with the alcohol to completely clean the surface, as small remnants can remain on the surface to create adhesion issues.
never tried the rain-x but I wipe some ptfe 3 in 1 lubricant on my film before putting the resin in and I have yet to have a print stick to the film. Even one failed print I had popped off the film with no issues.
I used the factory anycubic resin. If your having a problem with it not sticking, I suggest Siraya Tech Resin on ebay. Youll thank me later. It always adheres to the plate. Its bullet proof. Just make sure your plate is leveled and have the corresponding supports!
You forgot to mention that not only too much but also too little space between the plate and the fep can cause issues, specially if the plate is compressed beyond the base layer exposures
I had realised temperature is a factor, when I read that Seraya Tech Tough resins are ideally printed at 35°C. I had actually warmed up the bottles of anycubic resin I am currently working with, but I can still not rule it out as a factor for my adhesion issues (that is to say the resin's not mine personally 🥳). I'll make sure to increase exposure time even further (preset for the photon mono x at 40s 🤔) and if that doesn't do the trick I'll look into the FEP hassle.
Yeah, a year or so more data I can can confirm that temperature definitely has a larger impact on resin print success/fail and print quality than most folks give it credit for. I am at the point where I am converting one of my dead FDM printers into a heated resin storage cabinet using the screen/electronics/power supply to store my resins at the right temperature and avoid the drama of having to warm resins.
Thought I was a pro on elegoo mars pro then I got a saturn s and feel like a dang rookie.. u guessed it. First few layers are sticking check back in 30 min nothing is on the plate just stuck to fep
Hay I really like your video but my problem with a slightly different. My supports are sticking just fine I’m having problems with prints sticking to the fep sheet half way threw and that layer separates from the peace and sticks to the fep. Any idea why the first half sticks just fine and then it fails half way threw?
My question is, if you say 1st layer is held by vacuum suction, why do they say one needs to sand the plate to improve sticking? It does not make sense then. It would make sense to polish it.
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. I'd like to see you make a video explaining how to get accurate dimensioned parts. I have an Elegoo Mars resin printer and have tried to calculate the shrinkage but its always a roll of the dice and a lot of wasted resin.
Ah. I was printing in my back room with the window open for ventilation. In Canada. When the rest of my house is almost never over 20 because I am a fireball. It was -4 that night. yeah.
Dealing with some issues with my company's resin printers failing, not bed adhesion but the part being ripped of the supports. It worked totally fine, no issues whatsoever back when the room was kept at 90°F, but ever since the heater failed we've been having nothing but trouble. That seems like the most likely culprit, and the solution to the printers is to fix the heater.
Totally subbed! This channel is amazing and informative! I just bought my printer snd leveled it, but my print never stuck and therefor didn't print...(we're talking the rook test model lol). Realised it was probably because it's so cold here in WA and my bathroom was about 50 degrees! I'll get a space heater and see if that helps. Thanks man!
Awesome video. Really good information. I had my printer (Anycubic Photon) for a year printing with no problems. I didn't even have to look for curing times It did an amazing job no fails until I decided to upgrade firmware. Since then is been only tears. I have change FEP 3 times and level not sure how many times. One thing I notice is that always fails in the same spot. Any recommendations?
I've seen others recommend to keep the FEP a bit loose as it allows the part to peel off from the edges to the middle, rather than all at once (which causes suction). What are your current thoughts on that?
I need to make a video on tension specifically as a topic as I actually prefer tensioning my FEP sheets as tight as they will allow without breaking as it has virtually eliminated any adhesion issues that are not underexposed base layers. Especially on printers with screen sizes larger than 8.9" where a loose center causes much higher failure rates.
Ok this really helps see I recently gotten my printer and been having failed attempts left and right and it was the beds bottom (the tank botom ) see I was doing a dead clone from star wars and he put no supports and it failed i went to clean it and I press the bottom and right now before watching this I thought it must be the tank and I messed it up so this helps big time to know what cause what and to look out for
I really like your video it helped me to fix the resin that could not print anything at all by chance you will have a list of the configurations of the resins is that I can not find anything
Glad the video worked for you. There sadly is not a central spreadsheet for every machine and resin but rather smaller resin or machine specific settings sheets like the one offered by Siraya Tech for all their resins: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ohTOKQaG0VKQtC3OyzGf0tiqzyqvz-5BZ8nfBCZnrUU/edit#gid=0
So when you're talking about FEP tension, what if your vat is huge like the phenom Forge? Like a base drum, those will inherently have a lower frequency.
Regarding fep tension, you mention it's you can measure it with a guitar tuner or by how much Hz it makes. How would one have to go about to do this? Install a 'Hz measurement app', and flick the fep sheet to make sound? And on the temperature, I live in a relatively cold-ish and humid place (Netherlands) and have to print in a storage room without heater. Would preheating my resin solve the temperature problem, and how would I best do that? Thanks in advance : )
Use 2 paper strips because you need to level side to side and front to back. Mars 3 only needs about 25-35 seconds with Plant Based or ABS-Like resin. FEP was my problem. After 5 months the FEP was getting scratched and worn. It is a wear item.
Just set your initial layers to 8 with 60s exposure time, its an excellent middle ground that will net you perfect adhesion almost every time. Also don't use auto supports, they are hopeless. Use Prusa or Photon workshop and add your own using common sense. If you are incredibly careful and willing to take risk/reward, you can give the build plate an incredibly fine sand with very very fine sandpaper, just a few VERY gentle pass-overs. You want to make micro scratches that are so small you cant see them, the uneven surface helps the resin adhere to the plate a little better. DO NOT DO THIS WITH A GLASS PLATE.
Still have problems. Do not know what is wrong. Brand new FEP, tightened it to nearly 300 hertz, warmed the bottle of resin before adding, re-leveled my build plate, and increased the cure time for the first 15 layers to 120 seconds. It just will not stick. I bought a new vat with pre-installed FEP and it worked for a week of solid printing, but as more prints came out, I started to notice parts of the build plate would no longer adhere, until it just stopped bonding entirely.
I had an issue when switching to lychee slicer from photon slicer the setting i was glossing over was layer height (Layer Thickness) i had the decimal in the wrong spot. was converting from um to mm and ended up making my layer height 10x larger then intended. if your exposure test are successful for 20um (.02mm) and you set your layer layer height to .2mm. this will cause only the first and maybe second layer to stick to plate and rest to remain on your FEP, the thicker the layer the more time that will be needed. We don't need to go into how long this took me to figure out :D
Yea bro, I'm on the verge of a breakdown cuz I've wasted half of my weekend waiting for a thing to print and both of them failed and when I came to check my third at this point attempt at printing it I found out it left some serious dents on the fep film and now I'm scared to print anything cuz any new fail from this point on can pierce the fep and ruin the whole printer
whats up with the mighty 4k, id like to learn more on how to get better prints, also nothing iwas sticking because the build plate has a slight hump in the middle
First 17 seconds, yes!, yes!, and oh my lord hell yes! I can’t get the bloody prints to stick to the supports (only the supports and raft stick, the model ends up stuck on the FEP)
I’m surprised it wasn’t mentioned applying a thin layer of 3in1 PTFE lube on the FEP films helps and sanding the buildplate evenly with 120grit and 80grit sand paper helps too. I applied both to mine being a newbie and all helped me really well printing a full plate.
Thank you for your video! I'm I'm new at this. I bought my Anycubic Photon Mono SE that arrived on December 10th. I've tried 7 times to print the test model and it doesn't print anything. I've leveled it each time and I followed all the instructions and nothing. I increase room temperature (but it's winter and I could arrive to 66F not more than that), preheating the resin bottle with hot water (78F), shaking a looot the resin bottle, changing the parameters (exposure time to 2 Seconds; bottom exposure time to 55 and after bottom exposure time to 18)... And nothing!!! Not a single printed layer 🙁 Anycubic sent me a firmware to update and then unplug and plug the cable again... Nothing... 😭😭 Another point: I open the window when I start to print, so my 66F drops... What do you do? Do you ventilate the room or all of you have a enclosure cabinet? And it's curious because I commented about the temperature with Anycubic (it was before watch this video) and they don't tell me anything about it. So Anycubic is going to send me a new LCD to replace it. It's so disappointing! My first 3d printer 🙁 So watching your video, it seems that temperature is really important and it's odd that they told me that the LCD screen is not good but otherwise they don't mention anything about temperature. About the Hertz, is there an app? I'm a bit disappointed, looking forward to my first printed model. Thank you!
Hmm this is a tricky one, if absolutely nothing is on the build plate or in the vat then I would check to ensure that the screen and light source is working using the screen test/exposure tool in the settings menu (should be the option next to the homing/manual motor controls (do this without the vat obviously) If the screen/light source works, then its likely one of the following in no particular order: exposure issue, leveling issue, or a temperature issue. FEP issues really only apply after you replace it yourself--most manufacturers do a really good job ensuring that the stock vat is nice and tight. With temperature you really want to make sure the resin is warm when you start it--once its printing and you've confirmed its sticking to the build plate, having the temperature drop a little bit (I've tested to as cold as 55F with Ministry of Resin water washables) won't be as significant of a problem since the chemical reaction that turns the liquid resin solid does generate a hefty amount of heat and will keep the rest of the vat warm. Most printer manufacturers won't mention much about temperatures in resin printing, because its more of a resin specific issue than a printer issue--and the ones that do sell resin are outsourcing the manufacturing and don't have intimate knowledge of their product. For checking FEP tension, look on your phone's app store for really any free "drum snare tuner", all of them are relatively decent for resin printing. I can definitely empathize with you on being disappointed especially with the excitement of getting a printer, don't lose hope though. 3d printing does have a bit of a learning curve and with a bit of patience and tweaking they can do some amazing things (I have a whole business built on top of a dozen or so resin printers). You got this! :)
@@HiroCreations thank you for your quick response! I really appreciate your help. I checked the test/exposure UV light as explained on the manual. I did it a lot of times and I sent pictures and a video to Anycubic when they asked me. Considering that I never had a 3d printer before, I have no idea what a good UV light looks like. It's seems fine for me but... Ok about the FEP. Yes, it's new. So if I tried it preheating the bottle arriving at 78/79F, increasing the room temperature to 66F, leveling the plate each time, exposure time to 2 seconds, bottom exposure time to 55 and nothing, it seems that the issue is really the UV light. But it's so crazy that they sent me it broken! About the resin, I have the grey ECO Resin from Anycubic. On the label says "suggested using temperature 25-30ºC (77-86F)", "first layer exposure 20-80 seconds" and "normal exposure 3-15 seconds". Maybe I have to increase even more the temprerature and maybe I try to configure the maximum 80 seconds to the first layer exposure and the maximum 15 seconds to the normal exposure... But it seems crazy, right? I'm worried if takes a lot to print or if create another problem like a hole on the FEP :( What do you think about it? Just because I would like to try one last time before changing the screen. And on the other hand the temperature are dropping these days lol Well, it's Spain and not other cold country, so I think I can preheat the room :D Thank you!
Hello there ! Excellent video. I have a question for you : when you talk about a frequency between 325 Hz and 450 Hz, it's the sound who comes from the center of the FEP or the edges when you hit it ? I've got 358 Hz on the edges but only 180Hz on the center. (I just received my first printer so it's the default settings)
It's a really easy issue to overlook since it's hard to see what is happening for the first few hours. Definitely try warming your resin if you are in a colder location.
hello ....i have a nova3d elfin2 and using chitubox with a plugin....i printed many samples that did not need support and ,,all printed with succes....no bed adhesion problem ,,,,but each time i try to print a figurine with support ...with a raft or with out a raft ...after printing the base firmly stock to the printer bed ....the supports starts printing on the FEP film
I’m having a issue with my halot one resin printer where nothing is sticking to the bed plate it’s just a small knight figure at 32mm. I’ve tried to use a glue stick on the bed plate. Softly sanded it, cleaned the basin bin for the resin and used a wipe on the bed plate. It’s not sticking still
Hi i use a halot one and use the jewelry cast resin, i tried printing the matrix guide it printed perfectly but when i print the jewelry designs it doesn't stick
That one is a tough call, your base exposures might be on that edge threshold where flat lightweight calibration prints will stick fine but something heavier and puts more strain on the base layers won't hold up.
Neat, but it could do with a summary at the end. By the time it finished I struggled to remember all 4 points. Bed level, first layer exposure, FEP tension, ambient temp.
Good feedback, I'll start working to incorporating some sort of quick recap/summary in both the description as well as the end of the video. Thanks for watching! :)
Got fine the level, the tension, the temperature and the cure time and distance when peeling. But still having failures I've notice that my FEP got stick to my lcd screen like a screen protector and I've cleaned with IPA and microfiber cloth but still gets stick to the LCD, how do I avoid that??
Use carnauba wax to reduce that bond on the FEP surface. Wax every surface on the vat that cleaning will become easy without compromising print quality. The only thing you do not have to put wax on is the build plate surface. You can put wax on the side of the build plate and the back that resin does not adhere well on the surface, easy to clean and easy to drip off after printing resulting to less waste of resin. This is assuming exposure and leveling are all perfect. Ideally, that FEP material should not adhere to the resin that is why they use it as the material of choice but that is not the case in real life so we wax it that it solves a lot of problems. Technically, we do not need to use FEP material, any PET or HDPE material that is clear and flexible can be use here and they are much better in all aspect than the expensive FEP material.
I've been having an issues where everything is going good but 3/4ths towards the end of the print some how the print is being pulled off the supports and sticking to the bed. How do you fix that more supports? Thicker supports?
I had my FEP punctured .... took me 6 hours to clean .... plus it print directtly on the lcd screen .... had to gently scrapped it off ... I am lucky I didnt damage the screen
I feel your pain, have done that too many times to count, these days I use a plastic razor and a microfiber cloth soaked with IPA to quickly peel up spilled resin on my screens.
Thanks for the tips! One question: what is the 'offset-distance' (between lcd-screen and the build plate), and how is it set? Is it a separate thing to look at, besides levelling the build plate? Thanks!
@@frankmxparts Ahh that is a tip specific for the Beam3D Prism/Monoprice MP Mini which had autoleveling features. The offset is accessible on the web interface that you connect to via wifi.
@@frankmxparts if none of the tips in the video do it for you, feel free to comment here with the symptoms for the community or myself to help troubleshoot.
How do you fix the warping at the bottom layer guys when printing flat. My warping is pretty bed around the edges(Is this normal with the resin printer?). Is this the problem with the plate or FEP? I leveled my printer very well. Thanks.
I notice you use thick supports on your non miniature type prints? Any particular reason for this? I’ve seeing drooping on straight edges on engineering type prints and coming to conclusion I need to move to the heavy supports on these type of models to try and counter this as tried just about everything else even high density support. Would be nice for you to cover supporting these types of prints in a future vid. Thanks for great content.
Hallo, I have not tried my new Mars Pro yet, so is 42°F (7°C) okay for SLA printing? Unfortunately, I have to print in the cold garage and winter is coming in Germany now.
hi sir, i m from India ,ur tips is great . I have anycubic photon 3d printer , i havesame isue ill use printer for dental work , ill use ur tips but still ill ggain trubal in print pleas help me out thanku.
Help! I have a new halot mage and i have been unable to get any bed adhesion. Its level the fep is thight the room temperature is a stable 72 F. I sanded the plate i adjusted times in a few different areas from exposure to lift speed and nothing is helping. Im using anycubic ABS like gray resin. My halot mage is not the pro... What could be the problem any help would be awesome.
I am not having problems with adhesion to the build plate. Instead, the model is tearing loose from the supports during the print. I have tried several pre-supported models from 2 different companies and at least one appears to have sufficiently large supports.
I have a video on this topic scripted out (and I am deliberately failing a few prints to get footage). But I can say that issue is caused by one of two things, either too low layer cure times or the supports are two thin--keep in mind these two factors are complimentary--so changing one can compensate for the other (e.g. running higher cure times will allow you to print with thinner supports and using thicker supports will allow you to get away with lower cure times if you need crisper details on your prints.)
@@HiroCreations I increased the thickness of the supports and it improved things but I still need to increase it more. My problem now is this water washable resin swells and splits within a couple days. Everyone talks about excess resin but I wash it pretty thoroughly and I think it has to do with humidity and exposure to water. Regardless 90% of the prints either swell or split and I live in a place with high humidity so I am done with the water washable resin.
@@aaronbono4688 Interesting, are you models hollowed by any chance? As I've been a water washable testing spree with a few existing brands and a upcoming brand I am benchmarking for a friend and I made the mistake of forgetting about a few prints in water for a few days with no real effect on the print but they were solid.
@@HiroCreations The solid ones do not seem to split but they do warp in bulge. I've been having to run a humidifier to keep the humidity down to 60% but it can give a 80%. I tried to drip off most of the water and that does not seem to make a difference, at least not much. I tried not running it through the UV lamp after a print and it had no effect. I could increase the cure time during print, I did that a couple seconds and it's up to 10 seconds per layer, but that doesn't seem to help either.
Interesting, I'm going to have to have a chat with some friends I have in Florida and see how they cope with high humidity in their water washable resin prints, I do appreciate your perspective and insights as humidity is a non issue for me out here in the desert.
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My Friend.
You are the single best TH-cam video creator on earth. Simple, 4 major issues covered, no faff, no filler, no addressing your haters for the first 8 minutes, just solutions, listed in likely order.
You solved our problems, the effing temperature. NOWHERE anywhere does anyone say temperature. NOONE anywhere says the tension of the FEP in any detail, just "Make sure it's attached, because mine is on and attached" type of BS vagueness, and you, you tell us the Frequency you legend! I'm not being sarcastic, genuinely mate, thankyou. I can't believe you didn't say the TH-cam trolling sentence of the century "It worked for me".
so relieved, it's been all Autumn, and Winter, to learn it's been too cold for resin and that was even a thing at all.
Thanks! To be fair I picked up a ton of stuff with resin printing that nobody on youtube or the rest of the internet is talking about when I started doing a ton of beta testing of printers and various resins and I figured it would be good to create a video that troubleshoots those issues in the order of how commonly I experienced them. I just need to sit down and record more video for the other things like support, dealing with bigger resin printers (yup, they introduce all sorts of new issues that the small 5.5" machine don't deal with) etc.
Measuring the fep's tightness in Hertz really brings resin printing to a new nerdy level.
it is a great idea. my only thought it what if you vat is wider then his? Or its using a thicker material? would these two things lower the hertz at all? In my mind it would... twice the width would be half the hertz?
I’ve never thought of that lmao
@@colmboorman neither of those things would affect the measurement of frequency on hz. It’s only to insure proper tension so as tension increases so does the hz and the numbers will always be accurate
@@brawlerbros2146I think I would need to see a example as I see it like a guitar string. The longer it is the lower the frequency. The thicker it is lowers the frequency. The same with drum skins... Wider drum lower frequency. Unless there is something I'm not seeing here?
@@brawlerbros2146 i got the below from education.org as I think it words it better than I can.
"Drums with larger heads (drum surfaces) take longer to wobble back and forth, creating slower vibrations and a lower pitch. If you gave one of your drums a thicker surface or a looser surface, it would also take longer to bounce and would make a deeper sound."
So to me wider or thicker FEP would effect the Hz. That's where I am with this unless there is something else I'm missing?
On a Mono X ( for small light items ) I use 2 bottom layers @ 20 seconds each, and a 1.5 second layer time. 80% power. No issues perfectly detailed with no elephants foot 👍🏼 perfect for model bases and such printed flat. ✌🏼
I just wanted to thank you for this video. I just got into resin printing a few days ago. Had my first sample come out flawless. Every one since has failed.
Ambient temperature has been a big one for me being based in the UK. I have a heater set up that oscillates keeping it around 25°c. Since doing this I rarely have a failed print.
2:35. Bed lvl ok?
3:50 Base layer exposure time
6:02 Is the FEP sheet tight enough?
8:50 Temperature
Ooooh this is a great idea to time stamp videos. Thank you for doing it on this one. :)
@@HiroCreations welcome! I do it for most tutorials I use.
Nice video!
hero we need
MVP
Great content here and presented in an understandable way without any nonesense. Keep going this way. As you asked for other tips to improve adhesion to the build plate: A common tip is to sand it with sand paper (fixing the sandpaper to a perfectly flat surface like a glass pane to keep the sanding even). The second tip is to use a non-FEP sheet (from epax for example) to which the resin does attache less than to other fep sheets that come with most of the common printers.
+1 For mentioning ambient temp. So many people overlook this factor. I live in Ohio and it has definitely played a factor in both FDM and resin printing for me.
I also live in Ohio and I'm having major issues with my Anycubic Photon. How did you resolve it?
Also having issues with my Fauxton! I am going to be looking into temps. I think I will built and enclosure big enough for my FDM and resin printer to run together and see if it helps. I live on the Oregon coast so I am thinking the temp is the issue
Got my Creality Halot One last week, and was seriously considering just giving up and selling it again. Had just 1 succesful print in the whole week, all others failed. Truly stoked to try your tips, maybe it'll help me keep the printer around a bit longer...
How's your progress?
@@tonybloodloss Though getting more consistent results, mostly through using another type of resin, I must say my interest in printing has dropped severely in the past few months. But the printer in it self is fine now!
@@DeAdmiraal1998 oh, I see. My problems were happening because of resin. I use Photon btw.
@@tonybloodloss Ahh okay, yeah, sub-par quality resin seems to be the cause of a lot of problems as far as I've read.
I received my Elegoo Mars Pro on Saturday and although I followed the setup instructions carefully, watched videos of others doing setup, sadly, virtually all of my prints failed (stuck to the FEP). I came across your video last night, followed your advice and just came down to two beautiful looking prints hanging off my build plate!! (I think increasing the bottom layer exposure is what did it). Thank you so much for making this video!
What did you increase your bottom layer exposure too? I have an Elegoo Mars as well. I am experiencing the same problems
Same here
Tanka you. Gonna try to tighten my fep. I’m guessing that a larger 10” LCD of the Harlot Mage needs to lift higher (8mm) and has a lower drum frequency. Fingers crossed. Cones of calibration broke off, soIhope this solves my problem. Love your vids.
Don't forget that as printers age the UV LEDs get dimmer. So you may not be able to keep the same exposure across the life of the printer and less exposure can cause print failure.
As well, especially with the thixotropic resins that need to be heated above ambient, if the LCD gets too hot (first that's bad for it) but the LCD crystals start to blacken. Your eye can't often see this until it gets really bad/hot but long before it gets bad enough to detect it can effect how much light is getting through. So again your exposure goes down.
Thank you! My daughter was in tears because we didn’t know why the build plate kept starting too high up. Very much appreciated.
Nothing sticks to the damn plate!!! THANKS FOR THIS!!!!
As a fairly new resin 3D printer something I have found is that eventually you will need to replace your FEP sheet. Use disposable microfiber cloths to clean it. DO NOT use paper towels, they scratch your FEP and drastically reduce your FEP’s lifespan. Also PFTE lubricant is a good idea. The brand I use is 3-in-1 that comes in a teal colored bottle.
I had a FEP puncture because of this and I had to remove cured resin from my LCD screen which was a huge pain.
Edit: also my FEP was not tight enough from the manufacturer.
Thanks for your tip about frequency. I have a Mono X, since the vat is bigger the frequency cannot be the same as a photon like vat. Did you already measured a proper value for a big size vat?
Very useful, I had been checking the leveling and the temp but just needed to slightly tighten my FEP. Thanks!
Glad the tips helped!
Its 27°F and I still needed this video to realize its just too cold. Thanks buddy.
Yeah temperature is super underrated when it comes to resin printing, I have seen way too many failures happen because of this.
Never had my base layer exposure time as high as you recommend in the video though. I use 12 seconds for the base layers and 2 seconds for the rest of the layers and it's never been an issue for me.
My printer was having the problem of builds sticking to the build plate too well and I had so many issues getting them off. I bought a flexible plate to remedy that. Then I had an issue with the flexible build plate being too smooth and nothing was sticking to it. Had to hit it with a 300 grit wet sand to add some texture to it and haven't had any issues since then.
This video was released in 2019 when the norm was RGB screens. 12 seconds on a mono screen is easily equivalent to 60+ seconds on RGB.
Hopefully this helps, i already run my prints at 70 seconds, dont have too much of an issue with smaller models like miniatures for D&D but i tried making a small building recently and the corners of the building get lifted and the base isnt level, of course it corrected itself after a few more layers so the rest of it looks great but now i gotta make a roof for it and that probably wont cut it
If the part is peeling off the edges is sounds like your light source is not consistent and has "hot spot" in the center, two ways to fix that is to bump up the cure time to get the edges to stick (while overcuring anything in the center) or depending on your printer create a image mask that will even out the light distribution but at the cost of much longer cure times.
I just changed my FEP for the first time on my Mars and was wondering if there was a frequency range (like tuning a snare drum) for that. Thank you.
I'm in non-adhesion hell right now so I'm searching around for ideas of things to try. Your video seems like good advice. I've already been super careful with bed levelling. You don't mention whether machine levelling is critical but I'm going to play with that. My problems really started when I changed the FEP in my tank, though, so I'm wondering if my FEP is too loose. It doesn't feel loose but perhaps it is. I'll see if I can find a suitable app for measuring the frequency when I ping it.
You also say that base layer exposure time is critical. It seemed like you were saying that if this is the issue then perhaps it needs to expose longer. But is it possible to expose *too* long?
Thanks for the tips. These issues are getting me down. It's good to have someone out there to help.
So an alternate test to determine if the FEP sheet is too loose is to also increase the raise height. A tight FEP sheet means it peels off the part faster where a loose FEP will stick and never quite peel off when the build plate lifts--lifting it higher than 10mm means its definitely too loose.
For the most part exposing the base layers in ranges of 60-90 seconds should not cause any issues to the LCD for the first 6-8 layers Where you might run into issues is over exposing your regular layers for hours.
Machine leveling is definitely important but I found in most cases its a contributing factor with one of the other variables I mention in the video, the only case where machine level alone causes failures is if the build plate is too far away from the LCD/FEP to allow the resin to form good suction on the build plate.
Hopefully that helps :)
Hiro Creations It does, thanks. I checked my FEP tension and it “rings” at about 452 Hz. So I don’t think it’s too loose. Too tight perhaps but that shouldn’t stop it peeling right?
@@JohnArnoldUK Yeah only issue with too tight is its easier to puncture the FEP but that is another issue entirely.
Same halot one needs to be in the trash
Too slow , the manual never tells you why it could fail or troubleshooting
Now the house stinks
There are iphone apps that are free, that you can use to measure the audio response time of your FEP sheet. @@VideoGameGod777
Thanks for this, I had this very issue, and I found the problem being what I had cleaned the build plate with, I did use a very good quality paper kitchen towel. But, I have now changed to an old toothbrush and cotton cloth with the alcohol to completely clean the surface, as small remnants can remain on the surface to create adhesion issues.
Some good tricks here i'll have to try! I use a light coat of rain-x on the FEP before each print, at the moment.
How does the rainX work?
never tried the rain-x but I wipe some ptfe 3 in 1 lubricant on my film before putting the resin in and I have yet to have a print stick to the film. Even one failed print I had popped off the film with no issues.
Thanks for the advice, there is two things I need to check, temperature and the bed level.
So much understanding absorbed from this video, thank you!!
I used the factory anycubic resin. If your having a problem with it not sticking, I suggest Siraya Tech Resin on ebay. Youll thank me later. It always adheres to the plate. Its bullet proof. Just make sure your plate is leveled and have the corresponding supports!
Yup! Siraya resins is awesome with the exception of trying to print it in cold climates without a heater, I learnt that the hard way last winter.
Sanded my buildplate with 80 grit. Cross hatch pattern. Works flawlessly
This was a big help, i just picked up an elegoo mars 2 pro and have been lost trying to get my first print to stick.
thanks for video will try and see if temps work to confirm if that is the issue or if the resin itself is the problem.
Don't know if it can cause any major issues if it's only slightly off, but make sure the LCD itself (and printer body) is level.
Those are very great tips with actual explaination it is very helpfull to not only say what to do but to also why
This was so immensely helpful to a long time modeler new to resin printing!
Glad it was helpful! More video tips to come!
You forgot to mention that not only too much but also too little space between the plate and the fep can cause issues, specially if the plate is compressed beyond the base layer exposures
I had realised temperature is a factor, when I read that Seraya Tech Tough resins are ideally printed at 35°C. I had actually warmed up the bottles of anycubic resin I am currently working with, but I can still not rule it out as a factor for my adhesion issues (that is to say the resin's not mine personally 🥳). I'll make sure to increase exposure time even further (preset for the photon mono x at 40s 🤔) and if that doesn't do the trick I'll look into the FEP hassle.
Yeah, a year or so more data I can can confirm that temperature definitely has a larger impact on resin print success/fail and print quality than most folks give it credit for.
I am at the point where I am converting one of my dead FDM printers into a heated resin storage cabinet using the screen/electronics/power supply to store my resins at the right temperature and avoid the drama of having to warm resins.
Excellent video! I had not considered the FEP's tension level in my troubleshooting.
Thought I was a pro on elegoo mars pro then I got a saturn s and feel like a dang rookie.. u guessed it. First few layers are sticking check back in 30 min nothing is on the plate just stuck to fep
Great help for someone 3 days into resin printing! Much obliged!
Hay I really like your video but my problem with a slightly different. My supports are sticking just fine I’m having problems with prints sticking to the fep sheet half way threw and that layer separates from the peace and sticks to the fep. Any idea why the first half sticks just fine and then it fails half way threw?
My question is, if you say 1st layer is held by vacuum suction, why do they say one needs to sand the plate to improve sticking? It does not make sense then. It would make sense to polish it.
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. I'd like to see you make a video explaining how to get accurate dimensioned parts. I have an Elegoo Mars resin printer and have tried to calculate the shrinkage but its always a roll of the dice and a lot of wasted resin.
Good idea! I'll add that to my topic list :)
I recently got a resin 3d printer and this video was extremely helpful thank you.
Ah. I was printing in my back room with the window open for ventilation. In Canada. When the rest of my house is almost never over 20 because I am a fireball. It was -4 that night. yeah.
LOL
Just printed the rooks on me elegoo mars . Water washable resin . Been printing fdm for 6 years . Let's see if I get hooked !
Dealing with some issues with my company's resin printers failing, not bed adhesion but the part being ripped of the supports. It worked totally fine, no issues whatsoever back when the room was kept at 90°F, but ever since the heater failed we've been having nothing but trouble. That seems like the most likely culprit, and the solution to the printers is to fix the heater.
Totally subbed! This channel is amazing and informative! I just bought my printer snd leveled it, but my print never stuck and therefor didn't print...(we're talking the rook test model lol). Realised it was probably because it's so cold here in WA and my bathroom was about 50 degrees! I'll get a space heater and see if that helps. Thanks man!
i am so glad you are going through this step by step! thankyou so much!
Also, your fep sheet hack is what fixed my issue.
Very useful, everything you mentioned I suspected was the problem and has been rectified.
Awesome video. Really good information. I had my printer (Anycubic Photon) for a year printing with no problems. I didn't even have to look for curing times It did an amazing job no fails until I decided to upgrade firmware. Since then is been only tears. I have change FEP 3 times and level not sure how many times. One thing I notice is that always fails in the same spot. Any recommendations?
Hard to say without seeing but I can try. Does anything stick to the plate or is it all on the FEP sheet?
Thanks for this video. Getting a straight answer on this issue is kinda ridiculous.
What if all the supports are adhering, but the object isn't sticking to the supports?
I've seen others recommend to keep the FEP a bit loose as it allows the part to peel off from the edges to the middle, rather than all at once (which causes suction). What are your current thoughts on that?
I need to make a video on tension specifically as a topic as I actually prefer tensioning my FEP sheets as tight as they will allow without breaking as it has virtually eliminated any adhesion issues that are not underexposed base layers. Especially on printers with screen sizes larger than 8.9" where a loose center causes much higher failure rates.
Ok this really helps see I recently gotten my printer and been having failed attempts left and right and it was the beds bottom (the tank botom ) see I was doing a dead clone from star wars and he put no supports and it failed i went to clean it and I press the bottom and right now before watching this I thought it must be the tank and I messed it up so this helps big time to know what cause what and to look out for
Awesome thank you so mush for that easy understanding explanations think this will help me a lot
I really like your video it helped me to fix the resin that could not print anything at all by chance you will have a list of the configurations of the resins is that I can not find anything
Glad the video worked for you. There sadly is not a central spreadsheet for every machine and resin but rather smaller resin or machine specific settings sheets like the one offered by Siraya Tech for all their resins: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ohTOKQaG0VKQtC3OyzGf0tiqzyqvz-5BZ8nfBCZnrUU/edit#gid=0
So when you're talking about FEP tension, what if your vat is huge like the phenom Forge? Like a base drum, those will inherently have a lower frequency.
New to resin printing so this was a really useful video and the music is great
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Regarding fep tension, you mention it's you can measure it with a guitar tuner or by how much Hz it makes.
How would one have to go about to do this? Install a 'Hz measurement app', and flick the fep sheet to make sound?
And on the temperature, I live in a relatively cold-ish and humid place (Netherlands) and have to print in a storage room without heater. Would preheating my resin solve the temperature problem, and how would I best do that?
Thanks in advance : )
My dumb a trying to print in a cold house, thanks for this!
Use 2 paper strips because you need to level side to side and front to back. Mars 3 only needs about 25-35 seconds with Plant Based or ABS-Like resin. FEP was my problem. After 5 months the FEP was getting scratched and worn. It is a wear item.
Just set your initial layers to 8 with 60s exposure time, its an excellent middle ground that will net you perfect adhesion almost every time.
Also don't use auto supports, they are hopeless. Use Prusa or Photon workshop and add your own using common sense.
If you are incredibly careful and willing to take risk/reward, you can give the build plate an incredibly fine sand with very very fine sandpaper, just a few VERY gentle pass-overs. You want to make micro scratches that are so small you cant see them, the uneven surface helps the resin adhere to the plate a little better. DO NOT DO THIS WITH A GLASS PLATE.
Thanks for the help. I really hope these work.
Still have problems. Do not know what is wrong. Brand new FEP, tightened it to nearly 300 hertz, warmed the bottle of resin before adding, re-leveled my build plate, and increased the cure time for the first 15 layers to 120 seconds. It just will not stick. I bought a new vat with pre-installed FEP and it worked for a week of solid printing, but as more prints came out, I started to notice parts of the build plate would no longer adhere, until it just stopped bonding entirely.
i was about to sledgehammer my printer, tryed these tips and boom perfect
I had an issue when switching to lychee slicer from photon slicer the setting i was glossing over was layer height (Layer Thickness) i had the decimal in the wrong spot. was converting from um to mm and ended up making my layer height 10x larger then intended. if your exposure test are successful for 20um (.02mm) and you set your layer layer height to .2mm. this will cause only the first and maybe second layer to stick to plate and rest to remain on your FEP, the thicker the layer the more time that will be needed. We don't need to go into how long this took me to figure out :D
Yea bro, I'm on the verge of a breakdown cuz I've wasted half of my weekend waiting for a thing to print and both of them failed and when I came to check my third at this point attempt at printing it I found out it left some serious dents on the fep film and now I'm scared to print anything cuz any new fail from this point on can pierce the fep and ruin the whole printer
whats up with the mighty 4k, id like to learn more on how to get better prints, also nothing iwas sticking because the build plate has a slight hump in the middle
Hello, what would you recommend for lower than 70 ambient temperatures for anycubic resin?
First 17 seconds, yes!, yes!, and oh my lord hell yes! I can’t get the bloody prints to stick to the supports (only the supports and raft stick, the model ends up stuck on the FEP)
This video will be more relevant to your issue if its not sticking to the supports: th-cam.com/video/E2qH5Kv4s8s/w-d-xo.html
Is exposure time for base layers linear to layer height? Or does it increase will layer height?
I’m surprised it wasn’t mentioned applying a thin layer of 3in1 PTFE lube on the FEP films helps and sanding the buildplate evenly with 120grit and 80grit sand paper helps too. I applied both to mine being a newbie and all helped me really well printing a full plate.
Printing in Texas. Heat's not an issue. Would humidity be a factor?
Thanks, can't wait to try these tips out!
Thank you for your video! I'm I'm new at this. I bought my Anycubic Photon Mono SE that arrived on December 10th. I've tried 7 times to print the test model and it doesn't print anything. I've leveled it each time and I followed all the instructions and nothing. I increase room temperature (but it's winter and I could arrive to 66F not more than that), preheating the resin bottle with hot water (78F), shaking a looot the resin bottle, changing the parameters (exposure time to 2 Seconds; bottom exposure time to 55 and after bottom exposure time to 18)... And nothing!!! Not a single printed layer 🙁
Anycubic sent me a firmware to update and then unplug and plug the cable again... Nothing... 😭😭
Another point: I open the window when I start to print, so my 66F drops... What do you do? Do you ventilate the room or all of you have a enclosure cabinet?
And it's curious because I commented about the temperature with Anycubic (it was before watch this video) and they don't tell me anything about it. So Anycubic is going to send me a new LCD to replace it. It's so disappointing! My first 3d printer 🙁
So watching your video, it seems that temperature is really important and it's odd that they told me that the LCD screen is not good but otherwise they don't mention anything about temperature.
About the Hertz, is there an app?
I'm a bit disappointed, looking forward to my first printed model.
Thank you!
Hmm this is a tricky one, if absolutely nothing is on the build plate or in the vat then I would check to ensure that the screen and light source is working using the screen test/exposure tool in the settings menu (should be the option next to the homing/manual motor controls (do this without the vat obviously)
If the screen/light source works, then its likely one of the following in no particular order: exposure issue, leveling issue, or a temperature issue. FEP issues really only apply after you replace it yourself--most manufacturers do a really good job ensuring that the stock vat is nice and tight.
With temperature you really want to make sure the resin is warm when you start it--once its printing and you've confirmed its sticking to the build plate, having the temperature drop a little bit (I've tested to as cold as 55F with Ministry of Resin water washables) won't be as significant of a problem since the chemical reaction that turns the liquid resin solid does generate a hefty amount of heat and will keep the rest of the vat warm. Most printer manufacturers won't mention much about temperatures in resin printing, because its more of a resin specific issue than a printer issue--and the ones that do sell resin are outsourcing the manufacturing and don't have intimate knowledge of their product.
For checking FEP tension, look on your phone's app store for really any free "drum snare tuner", all of them are relatively decent for resin printing.
I can definitely empathize with you on being disappointed especially with the excitement of getting a printer, don't lose hope though. 3d printing does have a bit of a learning curve and with a bit of patience and tweaking they can do some amazing things (I have a whole business built on top of a dozen or so resin printers). You got this! :)
@@HiroCreations thank you for your quick response! I really appreciate your help.
I checked the test/exposure UV light as explained on the manual. I did it a lot of times and I sent pictures and a video to Anycubic when they asked me. Considering that I never had a 3d printer before, I have no idea what a good UV light looks like. It's seems fine for me but...
Ok about the FEP. Yes, it's new. So if I tried it preheating the bottle arriving at 78/79F, increasing the room temperature to 66F, leveling the plate each time, exposure time to 2 seconds, bottom exposure time to 55 and nothing, it seems that the issue is really the UV light. But it's so crazy that they sent me it broken!
About the resin, I have the grey ECO Resin from Anycubic. On the label says "suggested using temperature 25-30ºC (77-86F)", "first layer exposure 20-80 seconds" and "normal exposure 3-15 seconds". Maybe I have to increase even more the temprerature and maybe I try to configure the maximum 80 seconds to the first layer exposure and the maximum 15 seconds to the normal exposure... But it seems crazy, right? I'm worried if takes a lot to print or if create another problem like a hole on the FEP :( What do you think about it? Just because I would like to try one last time before changing the screen.
And on the other hand the temperature are dropping these days lol Well, it's Spain and not other cold country, so I think I can preheat the room :D
Thank you!
Hello there ! Excellent video. I have a question for you : when you talk about a frequency between 325 Hz and 450 Hz, it's the sound who comes from the center of the FEP or the edges when you hit it ? I've got 358 Hz on the edges but only 180Hz on the center. (I just received my first printer so it's the default settings)
I've been having trouble that I'm pretty sure is caused by my resin being too cold.
It's a really easy issue to overlook since it's hard to see what is happening for the first few hours. Definitely try warming your resin if you are in a colder location.
hello ....i have a nova3d elfin2 and using chitubox with a plugin....i printed many samples that did not need support and ,,all printed with succes....no bed adhesion problem ,,,,but each time i try to print a figurine with support ...with a raft or with out a raft ...after printing the base firmly stock to the printer bed ....the supports starts printing on the FEP film
That happens to me once in a while, usually it means underexposure--either the supports are too thin or the layer exposure time it too low.
@@HiroCreations ok thank you very much for the answer....i will try that
@@HiroCreations what could be a good average exposure time ...i tried ..5,,6,,8,,and 10
How can I preheat my resin?
I’m having a issue with my halot one resin printer where nothing is sticking to the bed plate it’s just a small knight figure at 32mm. I’ve tried to use a glue stick on the bed plate. Softly sanded it, cleaned the basin bin for the resin and used a wipe on the bed plate. It’s not sticking still
Hi i use a halot one and use the jewelry cast resin, i tried printing the matrix guide it printed perfectly but when i print the jewelry designs it doesn't stick
That one is a tough call, your base exposures might be on that edge threshold where flat lightweight calibration prints will stick fine but something heavier and puts more strain on the base layers won't hold up.
thx for the tips. my issue is that after the supports are printed the rest of the model fails.
I actually have a video for that specific problem here: th-cam.com/video/E2qH5Kv4s8s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for these great tips.
Thanks!
What do you mean by measuring the frequency? Do you need to strike something to resonate or is it the beep?
Neat, but it could do with a summary at the end. By the time it finished I struggled to remember all 4 points. Bed level, first layer exposure, FEP tension, ambient temp.
Good feedback, I'll start working to incorporating some sort of quick recap/summary in both the description as well as the end of the video.
Thanks for watching! :)
Got fine the level, the tension, the temperature and the cure time and distance when peeling. But still having failures I've notice that my FEP got stick to my lcd screen like a screen protector and I've cleaned with IPA and microfiber cloth but still gets stick to the LCD, how do I avoid that??
Use carnauba wax to reduce that bond on the FEP surface. Wax every surface on the vat that cleaning will become easy without compromising print quality. The only thing you do not have to put wax on is the build plate surface. You can put wax on the side of the build plate and the back that resin does not adhere well on the surface, easy to clean and easy to drip off after printing resulting to less waste of resin. This is assuming exposure and leveling are all perfect. Ideally, that FEP material should not adhere to the resin that is why they use it as the material of choice but that is not the case in real life so we wax it that it solves a lot of problems. Technically, we do not need to use FEP material, any PET or HDPE material that is clear and flexible can be use here and they are much better in all aspect than the expensive FEP material.
I've been having an issues where everything is going good but 3/4ths towards the end of the print some how the print is being pulled off the supports and sticking to the bed. How do you fix that more supports? Thicker supports?
I had my FEP punctured .... took me 6 hours to clean .... plus it print directtly on the lcd screen .... had to gently scrapped it off ... I am lucky I didnt damage the screen
I feel your pain, have done that too many times to count, these days I use a plastic razor and a microfiber cloth soaked with IPA to quickly peel up spilled resin on my screens.
Thanks for the tips! One question: what is the 'offset-distance' (between lcd-screen and the build plate), and how is it set? Is it a separate thing to look at, besides levelling the build plate? Thanks!
Offset distance in Chitubox?
@@HiroCreations th-cam.com/video/c_RoA-11MWU/w-d-xo.html
@@frankmxparts Ahh that is a tip specific for the Beam3D Prism/Monoprice MP Mini which had autoleveling features. The offset is accessible on the web interface that you connect to via wifi.
@@HiroCreations Ah, alright. LD-002R here. Gonna go over your tips. Thanks!
@@frankmxparts if none of the tips in the video do it for you, feel free to comment here with the symptoms for the community or myself to help troubleshoot.
How do you fix the warping at the bottom layer guys when printing flat. My warping is pretty bed around the edges(Is this normal with the resin printer?). Is this the problem with the plate or FEP? I leveled my printer very well. Thanks.
I have similar problems, yet to resolve
Ill try this tomorrow, thanks
I notice you use thick supports on your non miniature type prints? Any particular reason for this? I’ve seeing drooping on straight edges on engineering type prints and coming to conclusion I need to move to the heavy supports on these type of models to try and counter this as tried just about everything else even high density support. Would be nice for you to cover supporting these types of prints in a future vid. Thanks for great content.
What app do you use to measure your fep sheet tension thanks👍
Hallo, I have not tried my new Mars Pro yet, so is 42°F (7°C) okay for SLA printing?
Unfortunately, I have to print in the cold garage and winter is coming in Germany now.
How to check and or measure FEP tension??
hi sir, i m from India ,ur tips is great . I have anycubic photon 3d printer , i havesame isue ill use printer for dental work , ill use ur tips but still ill ggain trubal in print pleas help me out thanku.
Help! I have a new halot mage and i have been unable to get any bed adhesion. Its level the fep is thight the room temperature is a stable 72 F. I sanded the plate i adjusted times in a few different areas from exposure to lift speed and nothing is helping. Im using anycubic ABS like gray resin. My halot mage is not the pro... What could be the problem any help would be awesome.
I am not having problems with adhesion to the build plate. Instead, the model is tearing loose from the supports during the print. I have tried several pre-supported models from 2 different companies and at least one appears to have sufficiently large supports.
I have a video on this topic scripted out (and I am deliberately failing a few prints to get footage). But I can say that issue is caused by one of two things, either too low layer cure times or the supports are two thin--keep in mind these two factors are complimentary--so changing one can compensate for the other (e.g. running higher cure times will allow you to print with thinner supports and using thicker supports will allow you to get away with lower cure times if you need crisper details on your prints.)
@@HiroCreations I increased the thickness of the supports and it improved things but I still need to increase it more. My problem now is this water washable resin swells and splits within a couple days. Everyone talks about excess resin but I wash it pretty thoroughly and I think it has to do with humidity and exposure to water. Regardless 90% of the prints either swell or split and I live in a place with high humidity so I am done with the water washable resin.
@@aaronbono4688 Interesting, are you models hollowed by any chance? As I've been a water washable testing spree with a few existing brands and a upcoming brand I am benchmarking for a friend and I made the mistake of forgetting about a few prints in water for a few days with no real effect on the print but they were solid.
@@HiroCreations The solid ones do not seem to split but they do warp in bulge. I've been having to run a humidifier to keep the humidity down to 60% but it can give a 80%. I tried to drip off most of the water and that does not seem to make a difference, at least not much. I tried not running it through the UV lamp after a print and it had no effect. I could increase the cure time during print, I did that a couple seconds and it's up to 10 seconds per layer, but that doesn't seem to help either.
Interesting, I'm going to have to have a chat with some friends I have in Florida and see how they cope with high humidity in their water washable resin prints, I do appreciate your perspective and insights as humidity is a non issue for me out here in the desert.
Since heating my build plate, I never had a failed print
How do you do that?
47 degrees in my garage rn. guess Ima have to crank up that exposure time