There is nothing more satisfying than taking a 50 year old car and bringing it back to , in some cases, better than factory standards. It becomes an addiction I have found. However, having said that welding and materials have moved on significantly which adds to the enjoyment of the hard work AND it is great to see young guys learning these skills and keeping all these activities alive, because the industries that provided the training in the past have virtually gone. These home workshops are the only thing keeping the work affordable and saving cars and history from being scrapped. It is a bit of a crusade. Keep fighting, you are doing a great job and passing it on.
Thanks so much for sharing your project. This is very timely for me as I purchased a 1973 MGB GT last Wednesday. I am using your videos to guide me through the initial rust assessment. I have subscribed and will be watching. Thanks again.
@@HJRgarage I am definitely trying to do my part. I have three other cars (not MGBs) that I am trying to save. It’s a disease as you well know. LOL Nice quality videos BTW. Marc
I've literally just done this job over the Weekend and had exactly the same problem on that turn up of the Inner cill. Took a pattern from the original shape to find exactly the same problem. I've done this to two different MG's and found the castle rail was only seam welded on the inside and not plug welded on the inner of the Castle rail. Doing a great job!
@@halcyondayz1 thank you!! The problem with seem welding it is your then only connected to the floor not the sill where the proper strength is! Well done for helping save another classic car!!
@@HJRgarage ok, but the Floor is spot welded all the way around and along the crossmembers. I'm no expert and can only go by what I've found on the one I'm doing now and a previous Roadster-you're probably correct.Just enjoyin someone going through the same-only I'm on my Drive and 3 Years in!
Henry, as you may of already found out, marker pen will bleed through your paint every time, so you need to make sure you've removed all of it so as to get full cover with primers etc and not have areas that could start to rust. Hope this is of help to you Cheers rich1899
Beautiful work as ever, PS Remember when we talked about new body shells, well I stumbled across someone selling new E-type shells, £55,000 - makes an MGB at 14K look cheap!
Yes 👍🏻 but it’s difficult to remove the old outer sill from the bottom of the A post without damaging those flanges. So I opted to cut and weld it this time and it was definitely easier 👍🏻
@@HJRgarage So the old sill was cut off the bottom of the A post, and the part of the sill that the A post rested on remained on the bottom of the post for the new sill to welded to?
It’s a fluxcore! Hard to get used to but it does the trick! And no gas bottles to worry about! If I had the space and the funds I would buy a good gas mig but this one’s fine for now!
I use a Clarke MIG 135 TE from machine mart. 0.6 wire with a small C02 bottle. Fairley cheap set-up and I get decent results. I've got an MGC that's been sat in the garage for 21years waiting for some welding action.
POR15 a good product, but surface still needs degrease with por15 degreaser,then por15 metal prep.which chemically bites into the metal before top coating. It dries faster where moisture is present, should be applied in 2 thin coats rather than 1 thick coat.Just as a matter of interest, apparently it melts when you Weld near it,allowing it to flow around the welded area.could be a job for Mythbusters
Sorry, I have to disagree. I put my faith in POR 15 many years ago, and everything I used it on has failed. Many items were sand blasted, treated with the POR 15 metal prep etc., it is average at best. Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic is the way to go, far far better product.
@@HJRgarage not sure i agree the strength is still there but we all make mistakes (i make loads) and im not a structural engineer so tend to replace as it was designed especially in important structural areas that are simple to repair as per oem…..great vids and im sure its a massive amount of work! Another one saved and i like the back story! id buy my old GT back in a heart beat! 👍👍
There is nothing more satisfying than taking a 50 year old car and bringing it back to , in some cases, better than factory standards. It becomes an addiction I have found.
However, having said that welding and materials have moved on significantly which adds to the enjoyment of the hard work AND it is great to see young guys learning these skills and keeping all these activities alive, because the industries that provided the training in the past have virtually gone. These home workshops are the only thing keeping the work affordable and saving cars and history from being scrapped. It is a bit of a crusade. Keep fighting, you are doing a great job and passing it on.
You’re not wrong!! Thanks!!
Thanks so much for sharing your project. This is very timely for me as I purchased a 1973 MGB GT last Wednesday. I am using your videos to guide me through the initial rust assessment. I have subscribed and will be watching. Thanks again.
@@marcinmetcalfe595 thanks for watching! Any classic car these episodes help save is a win for me 👍🏻👍🏻
@@HJRgarage I am definitely trying to do my part. I have three other cars (not MGBs) that I am trying to save. It’s a disease as you well know. LOL Nice quality videos BTW. Marc
@@marcinmetcalfe595 thanks!!
GREAT. YOUVE DONE THE HARD BIT WELL DONE.
Thank you!
Wow! What a lot of work you got through this video! Well done.
Thank you!! My body certainly felt it 😂
Good work, enjoying the footage...
Thank you!!
Great work H, you've become very proficient, the experience is showing, looking good.
Thank you!! ☺️
I've literally just done this job over the Weekend and had exactly the same problem on that turn up of the Inner cill. Took a pattern from the original shape to find exactly the same problem. I've done this to two different MG's and found the castle rail was only seam welded on the inside and not plug welded on the inner of the Castle rail. Doing a great job!
@@halcyondayz1 thank you!! The problem with seem welding it is your then only connected to the floor not the sill where the proper strength is! Well done for helping save another classic car!!
@@HJRgarage ok, but the Floor is spot welded all the way around and along the crossmembers. I'm no expert and can only go by what I've found on the one I'm doing now and a previous Roadster-you're probably correct.Just enjoyin someone going through the same-only I'm on my Drive and 3 Years in!
@@halcyondayz1 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm in the same state with my rear inner wheel arch-scrunchy Mc Crunchy and none existent where your one has gone.
@@halcyondayz1 yes it’s like they built them and specifically designed them to rot 😂
It's coming along nicely. 👍👍
Thank you!
Excellent progress, your welding has improved, and remember, if it was easy, anyone could do it!
@@kevinmartin9432 thank you!!
You have done an amazing job mate, it’s going to look amazing!
Thank you!! I certainly hope so 🤞
It’s coming on, you must be chuffed! The rear arch will keep you busy for an hour or three…..looking forward to the next vid.
Thanks! I’m on it now… it is 😂
Great work very well done.
Thank you!!
Lovely job you have done 😊
@@shaunmccauley5129 thank you 🙏
Making some great progress there, you will be a mgb sill expert by the time you are finished, lol
We will see! Not sure I want to see another after this 😂
Yes, i bet your happy that the sills are done now. @@HJRgarage
Henry, as you may of already found out, marker pen will bleed through your paint every time, so you need to make sure you've removed all of it so as to get full cover with primers etc and not have areas that could start to rust.
Hope this is of help to you
Cheers
rich1899
Cheers Rich 👍🏻
Brilliant work mate 👏, would a hand held punch be easier for all the plug weld holes 🤔, looking good and solid workmanship 👍
Yes 😂
@@HJRgarage lol 😆, I asked because wondered if was a reason not to use one , I've my vw t4 to do soon 🤔
Great work bro
@@timsgtms1222 thanks!
@HJRgarage great work very professional
Beautiful work as ever,
PS Remember when we talked about new body shells, well I stumbled across someone selling new E-type shells, £55,000 - makes an MGB at 14K look cheap!
@@colinritchie1757 wow! That is a lot Colin! It’s supply and demand I suppose. No way it cost £55k to produce!
Why did you cut out the top of the outer sill at the A pillar? Shouldn't the flanges at the bottom of the A pillar just rest on top of it?
Yes 👍🏻 but it’s difficult to remove the old outer sill from the bottom of the A post without damaging those flanges. So I opted to cut and weld it this time and it was definitely easier 👍🏻
@@HJRgarage So the old sill was cut off the bottom of the A post, and the part of the sill that the A post rested on remained on the bottom of the post for the new sill to welded to?
I can see the bottom of the post at the 38:58 mark, and now it all makes sense!
Exactly 👍🏻
Great work, what welder do you use and is it a gas or fluxcore, would you recommend it, just about to buy my first mig welder,👍
It’s a fluxcore! Hard to get used to but it does the trick! And no gas bottles to worry about! If I had the space and the funds I would buy a good gas mig but this one’s fine for now!
I use a Clarke MIG 135 TE from machine mart. 0.6 wire with a small C02 bottle. Fairley cheap set-up and I get decent results. I've got an MGC that's been sat in the garage for 21years waiting for some welding action.
POR15 a good product, but surface still needs degrease with por15 degreaser,then por15 metal prep.which chemically bites into the metal before top coating. It dries faster where moisture is present, should be applied in 2 thin coats rather than 1 thick coat.Just as a matter of interest, apparently it melts when you Weld near it,allowing it to flow around the welded area.could be a job for Mythbusters
Ahh ok 👍🏻 I will try that!
Sorry, I have to disagree. I put my faith in POR 15 many years ago, and everything I used it on has failed. Many items were sand blasted, treated with the POR 15 metal prep etc., it is average at best. Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic is the way to go, far far better product.
I've done this job as a DIYer, and it's a bugger.
Yes it definitely is! But worth it in the end!
hi POR 15 should be put on bare metal rusty or not sand up the metal and apply don't put it on painted surface
should not have cut the sill below the A pillar…..bad move. it should be welded to the sill to provide strength to this vulnerable area….
Yes in a perfect scenario 👍🏻 I left the sill bottom in place under the a pillar. Then welded the sill to it. So the strength hasn’t gone anywhere 👍🏻
@@HJRgarage not sure i agree the strength is still there but we all make mistakes (i make loads) and im not a structural engineer so tend to replace as it was designed especially in important structural areas that are simple to repair as per oem…..great vids and im sure its a massive amount of work! Another one saved and i like the back story! id buy my old GT back in a heart beat! 👍👍
Use knee pads or you WILL pay later in life.From an older welder.
I know 🤦♂️ the floor is rubber matting though but my knees are already shot! 😂
Are you using 0.6 or 0.8mm wire
@@johnchisholm8043 it’s 0.9 flux core 👍🏻
Thought you were using gas. Good job with flux coated wire.
Next time get a white or silver marker pen you will see it better 😅😅
Good idea 😂