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Very interesting. I think the rep is very patient as you never let him finish a sentence!

Nice vid, what mileage is your xc60? looking to buy a xc60 d5 with high mileage and wonder how your experience is so far is.

Interested to see how the suspension upgrades work on your B. Great video 😊

Great video. I bought about $14000 worth of Frontline parts and they just arrived in the US. Waiting for the video of you putting together the front and rear suspension including the brakes.

Hell yeah brother! I just got mine to drive too!

Good video don't use exstions on your air gun or battery impacts, takes away the torque 😊

Great job! Thanks for sharing the video.

The auxillary belts are notorious on the 5 cylinder diesels, you are lucky when it snapped it didnt trash the cam belt, best changed every couple of years with quality ones, keep up the good work

Great job but I would have done the water pump at the same time. Bit risky not doing it.

I know nothing about this, but does it matter whether you're on TDC or not if you don't move the top and bottom pulleys and just put the new belt on in exactly the same place? Asking for an idiot.

Im still watching. Keep up the good work. Its looking so much better

I really enjoyed watching you work on this. Ive got a 76 mgb convertible I am planning on working on this summer. Keep up the good work.

So nice to see you back in 2025 sexy man 😊

You don't want the belt to snap, but if your engine is a "clearance" engine it'll stop but not trash the top end. That's why I drive older Mazdas, a whole lot of them are belt drive cam clearance engines. Always fit the belt over the crankshaft sprocket first, trick is its easier to fiddle the belt over the bigger cam sprocket. Impact tools usually won't loosen stuck nuts and bolts if youvtry to use a standard extension bar it will act as a torque damper. They make special extensions for that H!

Watch salvage rebuilds belt replacement on this model you will be horrified don’t drive without replacing alternator pulley or you will need a whole new top end it’s a common problem on these

We change cars frequently, if its cost more than 500 I do a complete cam belt with water pump using quality parts. It helps resale as well.

timing belts are never my favourite job, although i've done a few. Always happy if the car starts up again 🙂 Maybe because i only did frontwheel drive / transverse engined cars lately. On my old Ford Granada estate with the trusty Pinto engine i could do the belt ánd adjust the valve clearance ánd change rotor and plugs (and having a few coffees) in the same time it takes to just do the belt on, say, my Golf tdi. Miss that old fashion engineering sometimes...

Well done👍Interesting video

Not really my area of interest , but it just goes to show that the BGT is in very good hands. Nice change of pace

I have just replaced the timing belt on my Volvo xc60 2 weeks ago, nice easy job and saved ££££££££££££££££££££££££ instead of taking back to Volvo.

Oo this is ace! If anything goes wrong with my car I know who to call 😂

I was going to say have you got it TDC on the Compresion Stroke or the Exhaust Stroke

Enjoy it when finished.

Amazing amount of progress in only 5 months' whilst holding down a full time job along with family commitment's. Well done and respect to you.

Looking good H, it's still a little way to go and the bonus is no rust. Happy New Year.

You going sell it on when complete mate?

The mg has come a long way, looking good.

Very instructive, you are well talented and your work is inspiring , Thanks !!!!

Jesus Christ. The old girl had some rust didn’t she! You seem to have done it all pretty well spot on mate and not gone down the dodgey route and just done quick repaires. It looks like you’ve seen the rust and kept cutting until you reached clean un pitted metal rather than just identify a small rust section and replace clean metal into pitted metal that will be problematic in future.

Well done on MGB restoration . I would help with this, protect your health in every you can . Kind regards JC 2/1/25 .

Well done. I did not like your clickbait titles, at all. Your workmanship and dedication are excellent and thank you for posting. Keep the titles real. Car guys do not buy BS titles. Blessings and Happy New Year.

Great job..all your videos are so cool.

Nice compilation!

fantastic well done,wish i had your skill

Enjoying your vids... I noticed that you welded the top section of the rear panel behind the original panel (the edge where the chrome trim sits), so that the original overlaps the new panel, and didn't butt weld it.... was that recommended to you? did you follow any guide at all?... I have to do the same thing so would appreciate any advice.

Check out Trev's Blog, he has a very good vid on finishing

I came here because of a post on the EBMV Facebook page... I can totally empathise with you on the spraying in a garage scenario and I like your down to earth, matter of fact approach to dealing the issues an amateur is likely to encounter. I'll be going back to see your first spraying job to compare the issues I've had with my VW Beetle - though some of mine was rushing and mixing ratio errors. Also - any chance of showing what you did to clean you spray gun? Thanks again, enjoy your January off. 😁 Dom

Don’t wet sand new paint with a block you are more likely to break through too the primer on edges and leave tram lines. Just use your hand but not your finger tips and use soap to cut down the friction and help paper glide over the surface without clogging. Should be able to wet flat a whole car in about four hours.

Thanks for sharing the raw reality of this. Means we can make an armchair decision whether or not to take a similar job on. Enjoy your break 🎉

Nice. But won’t the sides of the car be cold?

I think the car looks remarkable given the circumstances. Just a few bumps in the road but I'm sure you'll have the old girl looking gorgeous in no time. Reminds me of MPC11D an MG John Day restored in the 80s. I had my GT sprayed professionally and yours looks just as good. I admire your perseverance.

Henry. I have done exactly the same job as you. Painted my MGB Roasdster BRG in the garage, and I had all the same defects!. The trick I eventually found after much trial and error was 2000 or even 2500 grit final wet sand (others use 3000 Trizac). As for buff and polish the main thing that made a difference for me was using the correct foam pad (Farecla yellow worked best) but make sure you clean the pad throuroughly after each session. I think it is the dried polish which casues a lot of the micro scratches. Also, I used far less compound than you but did use water spray as well. Low speed (600) also seems to work best. I did burn through the piant in a couple of places so clearly an extra coat should have been applied. Final polish is yet to come but I will use Farecla black with G3 compound. Hope this helps (from a fellow enthusiastic amateur!).

I alway add some anti silicone additive to the mixed paint. To prevent any fisheyes ruining a panel. Tiny bits if dudt csb always be rubbed out but fisheyes just get deeper. Now you have flatted it its just as easy to mask up again and give it another couple of coats and allow to cure fir a couple of weeks before polishing. Good luck it a big learning curve. I remember my first respray back in the 1960's using a hoover spray gun and car enamel paint . You only get better whatever gear you use and runns get less and less of a problem. First BIG mistake whrn polidhing NEVER put polish mop on fhe floor ! And do a small area at a time.

When polishing with G3, you'll need to liberally wet the sponge on the polisher with water.

The paint wasn't hard enough Henry. You need to leave it much longer than a week at this time of year before cutting and polishing. If you'd left it longer you would have had more success with the polishing. I painted my car during the summer, but won't be cutting it until next summer. A suggestion here , don't touch the fresh paint now. Leave the paintwork and get on with the engine swap and suspension work. Winter is not the time for paint and 15 degrees is too cold for curing. This is why you got runs in the first place, it didn't tack off fast enough. The advice to use soap when cutting is critical. Its not optional. Those scratches came from clogged paper. Leaving the paint to harden for longer minimises the clogging too. More water, plenty of soap, dip the paper in the water more frequently. You should have needed barely 1 or 2 passes with G3 liquid with water added( not paste ) to get a shine like glass. Leave it now, its crying out to be left for much longer.

Wetting the garage floor will help massively with keeping the dirt and dust out of your paint

Although for you it was a terrible amount of work that you hadn't anticipated, for me this is a very educational video: seeing what can go wrong and how to correct it. During the video you mention that you changed the air pressure on the spray gun. What pressure did you use the first time, and this time?

That paint looks fabulous! Fantastic job mate!

Superb work, I sprayed my car at home but in a large tent in the garden, it was summer though so that helped, mine was black so I was asking a lot for a DIY job, to be honest it was a bit of a disaster and in the end I just left it and finished the car and vowed to address the paint at a later date. I had exactly the same problem, no matter how much I wet sanded and buffed I just couldn't get a nice shine on it, I buffed through in so many places basically it was a disaster. When I eventually spoke to a professional about it he said that with the paint I was using I really needed to go over it with a clear coat, if you are considering painting the whole thing again you may want do do it in clear coat rather than green again, then flat and polish the clear.