Automated Enclosure Part 1 - Active Heat - OctoPrint - Chris's Basement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 เม.ย. 2024
- Dave from Printed Solid sent us a sweet enclosure and we're going to fix it up just how we like it. We'll put in some lights, install and configure OctoPrint, install a heater and do some testing.
00:00 Introduction
02:27 Lights!
04:37 Power
07:43 Raspberry Pi /OctoPrint
19:56 Heater & Thermostat
23:49 Testing
26:41 Sweet Timelapse
29:32 Web Cam
30:40 Conclusion
Helpful Links:
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These are affiliate links and take you to Amazon.
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Light:
geni.us/BPB4A
Power blocks:
geni.us/C4UqTDg
Pig tail:
geni.us/fGGnI0
Cam I use:
geni.us/2d1s7
Raspberry Pi header:
geni.us/2BJhN
Temp sensor:
geni.us/F1HIpv5
Buck converter:
geni.us/gqG9Dg
Raspberry Pi:
geni.us/J5sRCE
Wire ferrules:
geni.us/QzKMx
Ferrules crimpers:
geni.us/10gCS
Dupont connectors:
geni.us/UwBSiw6
Dupont connectors:
geni.us/8OUn
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Install octoprint:
• Depreciated - Octopi I...
Other parts, no affiliation:
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Enclosure:
www.printedsolid.com/collecti...
BOFA Print Pro One:
www.printedsolid.com/collecti...
Enclosure heater:
www.solutionsdirectonline.com...
Enclosure thermostat:
geni.us/JyFh
Pi case:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:922740
Buck converter case:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:116...
Camera mount:
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Cable tie mount:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:492...
Thermostat mount:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:394...
Test object:
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
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"You could just look it up on the internet ... but that's no fun!" words to live by
🙂
I really like that little heater. I may have to grab on of those for a similar project. Looking forward to the next video.
Cool, thanks.
Here's a link to the heater at Printed Solid. geni.us/1IjdK
Great walkthrough of the process
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Always interesting and thoughtful ideas from Chris, thank you for everything on your channel, could not print nearly as well without your guidance and research.
Thank you so much!
I kinda feel obligated to comment and thank you. I feel like every time I decide to do a printer upgrade project, I always end up using your videos to help me. From a multi-camera setup to OctoDash, and now I'm here watching for my Prusa enclosure project.
I'm glad you did! Thanks for watching and thanks for telling me. I love helping our community.
I like the how the technology is organized for practical use. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent presentation of a plethora of material. Looking forward to seeing the progression of your enclosure experiment.
Thank you!
Chris you're a legend, thank you so much for the clear explanation. My enclosure turned out really nice with your help!
Great to hear! Thanks
Nicely done Chris.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic video, Chris. Tons of good pointers to build such a thing yourself. Totally helpful.
Thank you. It's more fun to build your own
@@ChrisRiley I would definitively be interested in Part 2. Air filtering is still a black box for me. Also interested how (dry) filament storage can be integrated.
Nice video. My enclosure I made myself, with 15mm MDF painted with fire retardant varnish. I get 40c in 1 hour and 50c after a few hours just with a standard Ender-3 running 90c bed, no additional heater. Moved the electronics to the back, outside the enclosure and added quick disconnect plugs so I can take the printer out easily when I need to work on it. I also have a smoke alarm inside the enclosure, along with a thermostat buzzer in case it ever goes over 60c. I print generic no name brand ABS.
I admire your attention to safety
Thanks for the tips!
Good video - interesting results on the filament temp tests
Thanks Dave!
Seen this at the shop when I visited Printed Solid the Bofa are cool !
Hey Ron, yes, they have a very nice setup.
I don't need this but I want it.
Also, thanks for the copperhead videos. I ended up replacing my stock mk3 extruder and heat sink, etc with the copperhead setup. And yeah, there's a huge difference!
Story of my life! I'm glad the Copperhead worked out.
been running 2 heaters in the chamber for years, One from Octoprint Enclosure and one from marlin. The one advice i ALWAYS give people who are looking into this is to use marlin and not octoprint. not only you can have chamber temps set on STL itself in slicer ( because the chamber temp you will need is basically dictated by STL's size and geometry) .
but the main issue is octoprint enclosure plugin is UNRELIABLE. some times the heater comes up as "on" on boot regardless of the autostart settings. Sometimes it just wont toggle the control output regardless of it reading correct temp and having correct target . It rarely does this but its enough to kill your trust and burn your house down if you don't have the proper safety measures in place ( which is why i was happy to see you recommend that thermostat) . you could also suggest a cheap thermal fuse to people who want to cheap out.
Thank you!
Good grief, I just want to print. I'm going to get an external heater and pipe it in. Connect it to an Amazon smart plug. Set it and forget it.
My fume extractor sucks the hot air out constantly so I don't need a thermostat. The heater would be on the whole time anyway.
@@dangerous8333 you may be underestimating the amount of energy required to maintain a chamber at 50C + for hours, specially one which is being constantly vented out. My guess is it will just get to 30 to 40 c and the airflow in the chamber will do more harm than good.
it just sounds like a really bad idea, but if you are gonna be like that then just get a couple of old school tungsten or halogen lamps and turn them on in the chamber, you'd be way better off.
I am intrigued by your post. Putting a printer in a chamber is my next project. Would love to converse with you over dos and donts and get some advice from someone who has experience?
I bought a pack of those sensors in waterproof bullet w/ pigtail a while back. Use them and BME280s in my esp8266/esp32 projects.
That's great!
Interesting video as always
Thank you!
Outstanding
Thanks!
Yeah I had to reprint extruder parts when reaching 60c + hot extruder motor. I have a Voron and printed everything with esun abs+.
I switched all extruder parts with PC blend now. Holds well up to 60c chamber temp now.
Very good temp to print PC blend :)
Thanks for sharing!
woooohoooo Chris is Back
Feel Good!
Mighty cool gpio header. You could stack the rail input with the bridge side maybe to get one more output if you needed to?
It's pretty nice, maybe, I would have to see if there is room.
Ooh Chris. You know what would rock and I always wanted to do ? A strength test of ABS in XY and Z at 40c -30c -60c enclosure temps. Basically I wanna see how much it matters :3
Good Idea!
@@ChrisRiley ooh are you ever gonna try it?
This video is great! Is part2 available? I couldn't find it.
Thanks! Not yet, I'm working on it.
2 Tips btw. 1.for smaller parts when you set the chamber temps a bit lowish .. like 35 to 40c , the fan of the chamber heater moving air in there sometimes does more harm than good, ( ie for ABS ).
2. when you have DC heated bed and have the PSU inside the chamber and the chamber insulated, the PSU actually runs cooler because there is way less load on it . whish i could say the same about the steppers tho , i use 60mm nema 17s so i can jack up the temps to 55c with no watercooling .
Thank you!
Welcome back!
Edit: i see now that youtube didnt show me your two previous videos...
Thanks!
Thanks Chris, this is exactly what I need right now. Except for Part 2, when do you think that might be coming out ???
Coming out March 9th!
Thank you
Thank you!
Thanks again for this Chris !! A HUGE help !! One question though, is there any way to have the sensor temp displayed on the navbar itself, instead of inside the drop-down box with the flame symbol on it ??
Awesome! Check this one out, see if it does what you want it to. plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/navbartemp/
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris but I already have that plug-in. Still have to open the pop-out with the flame icon on it
At some point after all these mods and time investment I think people should just consider building a Voron and being done with it so they can just use there printer.
I agree!
Nice Video. Is it also possible to integrate the Chamber temp into the Graph Window from Octoprint?
That's a good question, maybe, I will check it out for the next video.
@@ChrisRiley Actually you just activate "Heated Chamber"in the Printer Config and there is the Graph and Symbols for it.
You sold another heater can’t wait to see the next video.
Great!
I would be interested to see how PC Blend does in your heat test. Prusa's material chart has ASA's heat deflection at 86-93°C, while PC Blend is 109-113°C. It would also be interesting to try some of the carbon fiber fill materials to see if the added stiffness helps with this test.
Ultem 1010 can be 180c I think?!! :3 tho it's cost a lot.
Htn can handle 150c~ too
Great suggestion!
I am printing HIPS on my two mk3 in an active heated chamber at 50C constant (moving the PSU outside). No problems (only about 100 hours of printing by the moment)
That's awesome! Thanks for watching
Hey Chris.. great video.. thank you! Do you have a link or details on the enclosure? I could not find it in your notes.
Can't believe I forgot that. Here you go. www.printedsolid.com/collections/next-generation-enclosures/products/next-gen-safety-enclosure-for-prusa-style-printers
Purchased.. thanks for this video….
I have one of their previous generation enclosures for the CR-10 sized machines. (I did a video on it a couple years back) Is this new one using ACM or something "better" for flame resistance? I have a BOFA on mine and I will be installing a Blaze Cut system to the top, for added safety. My only gripe about the enclosure isn't the enclosure...it's getting the CR-10/CR-10S inside of it and trying to find all the connections you have to plug in again! Maybe this new one has better access on the side? I like your tweaks! I've been using those inexpensive Ring Light clamp mounts. It'll hold a webcam, the ring light is abled to be brightened or dimmed to your Octoprint camera preference. Print Safe!
Cool, thanks for your insight!
Chris are there any new links for that enclosure heater? Your old link is broken, would love to pick one of those up.
They seem to be pretty hard to find. Here is one I found. www.solutionsdirectonline.com/150w-ptc-enclosure-fan-heater-120-vac--028009-00-p5958.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAiAu5agBhBzEiwAdiR5tBn9Oum15xLL1ZUIGVSSpsjslObJyAk2FVwkYshvNbgCFP1zVL9FcRoCH2MQAvD_BwE
Would there be room on the inside of the case to run cables down an inside corner and just come out near the connector block rather than have cables running down the outside?
For sure on the Prusa one. Plenty of room.
Is there any worry with keeping your PSU & Einsy board in the heated enclosure?
PSU, you don't want it in there. Einsy should be fine.
Hey Chris. Is it possible to control USB ports on a RPI similar to GPIO? Just to be able to turn a light or fan on/off.
not easily, they always retain power for the most part.
So unless you had a fan that took information from the data pins to trigger a switch internally, its just gonna be on all the time.
Thanks!
Chris. If you plan on printing really high temp stuff. Lets say polycarb, or peek, or such. What kind of chamber and setup etc would you recommend going with? And as you make this video serious as you go is it possible to include comment in the video to that effect maybe?? Thank you.
I will touch on this in the next video, PC to PEEK is a huge jump. OC, this setup will work fine, PEEK, you need as much heat in there as you can get.
What is the case to the left of the Mk3 enclosure?
To the left? Not sure what you are seeing.
Are you still going to do a part 2 to this?
Working on it!
Came here to ask that!
Enclosure plugin is getting a complete re-write right now, so look out for future updates...
Sounds good!
The link to the heater doesn't work. What's the heater make and model?
This is the one, but I'm not sure where the best place to get one is now. shorturl.at/nuWX7
Is 50 degree c to hot for an enclosure? No active heat. Just passive.
That's pretty warm. I wouldn't go much hotter than that.
What’s BOFA Chris?
That's who make the enclosure filter.
BOFA Print Pro One:
www.printedsolid.com/collections/bofa-air-filters/products/bofa-3d-print-pro-1-fume-extraction
After you add a heater and print HTN/PC :3 I'm mostly joking. I mean it works but you don't have to and all ;3 I wanna do that personally on the new tool changer I'm making
Cool, let us know how it goes!
Hey Chris, nothing video related but at your older videos the comment section is disabled. You might check into that if it wasn‘t intended
Thank you
Life hack: Put your Prusa Mini or Kingroon KP3S into your oven and print.
I like it!
hey dude be seriously careful with those floor mats. i caught them on fire doing something similar.
Thanks!
Paint the inside white, kill two birds with one stone, higher temps and better lighting.
That's a good idea!
Hi, I have asked a couple other TH-camrs about this but haven't got a response yet. There's a channel called mr3dprint where the host shows how to strip PET bottles into strings which are then pushed through a nozzle to create useable filament. I really want this to work, but I don't think that it can be that easy. Can you try to replicate his process to test if there's even the tiniest bit of merit to this?
PET alone (no glycol), could be brittle. Not sure if it’s worth the effort. Diameter consistency is another concern. If it’s for knick knacks alone, I don’t see why not.
I agree with Arthur, I don't think you could ever get it consistent enough to make good filament. Plus, being just PET, it wouldn't be very good for 3D printing.
bofa deez fume extractors
😂