Enclosure Part 2 - Fully Automated - OctoPrint - Printed Solid - 2022 - Chris's Basement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
- Finally!!! We're wrapping up our Enclosure videos today. We'll start with a quick recap, then we'll add a few extra features and do some test prints.
00:00 Introduction
00:29 Relay Switch for our Lights
10:09 Air Filter Install
14:40 Exhaust Fan Install
18:23 SSR Install
22:37 Printer Install
27:12 Temperature Test
32:33 OctoPrint Setup
43:49 Test Prints
46:50 Conclusion
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Light:
geni.us/BPB4A
Power blocks:
geni.us/C4UqTDg
Pig tail:
geni.us/fGGnI0
Cam I use:
geni.us/2d1s7
Raspberry Pi header:
geni.us/2BJhN
Temp sensor:
geni.us/F1HIpv5
Buck converter:
geni.us/gqG9Dg
Raspberry Pi:
geni.us/J5sRCE
Wire ferrules:
geni.us/QzKMx
Ferrules crimpers:
geni.us/10gCS
Dupont connectors:
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Dupont connectors:
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SunFounder 2 Channel DC 5V Relay Module On Amazon:
geni.us/OysR
2-Pack 60mm by 60mm by 15mm Cooling Fan On Amazon:
geni.us/UiWoX3
Solid State Relay SSR-25DD On Amazon:
geni.us/osknly
Surge Protector Power Strip On Amazon:
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10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable Wire on Amazon:
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Ancable 4-Pack TS Mono Male Plug on Amazon:
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AYECEHI 5Pack 5.5 x 2.1 MM 10A DC-099 Power Jack Cord Socket on Amazon:
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Helpful Links:
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Spool holder:
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/088...
Enclosure Port:
cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/088...
Printed Case for Relay:
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Rubber Feet and PSU bracket for Enclosure:
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Enclosure:
www.printedsolid.com/collecti...
BOFA Print Pro One:
www.printedsolid.com/collecti...
Enclosure heater:
www.solutionsdirectonline.com...
Enclosure thermostat:
geni.us/JyFh
Pi case:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:922740
Buck converter case:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:116...
Camera mount:
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Cable tie mount:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:492...
Thermostat mount:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:394...
Test object:
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
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Thank you, Chris. Finally a video with the What, Where, When, and Why of something. And what makes it all doable is the How. One of the best videos ever!
Wow, thank you!
Maybe blowing the filtered hot air back into the enclosure? And some airflow inside to even out the heat at diferentes levels like a convection oven. Great content!
Thanks! Yes, it would be much better to put it back in, maybe we should create a hack to this filter.
effin most underrated youtube channel ever
Thanks, that's nice to hear.
Great video, been waiting for this installment. Thank you 😀
Thanks for watching
Thank Chris 😊 as always very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice vid again!
You're using an off the shelf printer, so going with the GPIO route to switch the heater makes sense.
With a little more effort finding a free pin n the printers controller board, you can setup this output pin as an extra heater. I simply used the second nozzle heater output to power a relais for the heater.
Doing it that way, you can check the 'heated chamber' checkbox in your Octoprint printer profile and admire the temperature graph showing nozzle, bed & enclosure temperature. Also, you can set a enclosure temperature for all preheat presets, so preheating for ABS will automatically heat the enclosure to X degrees en control the temperature.
Note on the relay:
I use a 220V 500W heater block, which pulls 2.2 amps. A simple cheap relais module can switch 10 amps, so no need for a beefy and expensive SSR.
Thanks for your comment!
Chris, great content. I like the way you mounted all of the electronics on the back and used a bus bar system for the 12V distribution. I didn't realize that Octoprint had come as far as it has with this level of control using the Pi. Thanks for showing the difference it made on the prints, very impressive
Thanks Dave!
This is so important in introducing 3d printers I to many scholastic environments! Great info Chris !!!
Thanks, I agree!
Hi Chris, great instructional. I have one small safety suggestion. It does look like the case is some sort of metal. I realize there is not a whole lot of vibration transmitted to the cabinet, but I am a sort of belt and suspenders guy. May I suggest that the pass thru holes for the wires be lined with alligator strip or some 3D printed flex u-channel? I especially think there should be some treatment for the AC line pass thru for the heater. This enclosure is a terrific boon for the more adventuresome FDM hobbyists.
"Our enclosures are now made out of aluminum clad material for more heat retention and half the weight of previous enclosures"
So yeah, some sort of edge protection would be in order to prevent wear on the insulation.
Thanks for your suggestion.
you mean using a grommet?
@@RinksRides Be hard to find a grommet that large, but yes, you got the idea. The objective is to protect the wire from the sharp metal edge of the hole. The protection must attach to the case, not the wire.
You can print a grommet out of TPU. I have the same enclosure and designed one for it. It has held up well :)
Great, thanks!
One note - the biggest problem seems to be hot air staying at the top. Solution 1: Add a fan to blow the hot air from the heater down. Solution 2: Move the BOFA outlet to the bottom - it will pull the cold air from the bottom and hot air will circulate better.
Thanks for the info!
Thank you Chris for this video✅ I’m looking to do something’s similar to an inclosed old printer of mine. And the pi was the missing link. Great timing indeed 🤟
Great, thanks!
I like my enclosure from PrintedSolid as is, but if mod it like you did, I would love it more! Thanks for all the info, always love your channel!
Thanks for watching!
Great vid! One of your best.
Why not put the BOFA exhaust pipe down low near the floor to extract the colder air and not the "expensive" warm stuff?
Thanks! Not a bad idea, I would have to consult with the enclosure gurus over at PrintedSolid and see what they think.
@@ChrisRiley I would look into a belt style bed, but not a continuous Z printer, just a fixed volume printer with a belted bed.
Just wanted to thank you for being able to update my firmware on my anet a8. The comments were turned off on the video but wanted to thank you. I looked at many other videos and none were sucsessful until I got to yours. I had to change the AVR 1.6.23 and everything compiled then loaded
That's great news! Thank you!
You may want to add a door limit switch to turn off the heater if its open because the thermostat may never get to 50c.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks, good info. I DIY'd a similar enclosure but went passive heating from the MK3. I ended up never using my exhaust or recirculating filters. I could only hit 44C even sealed up, 110C bed and extruding filament. The ABS I use still wants more heat. The filter actually caused more warping. It works better for me letting the heat linger at the bed (and top). I had to realign, tighten and recalibrate everything on the MK3 after 2 weeks of heavy printing. PETG heat creep is no joke.
For sure! Thanks for your comment
@chris, I would suggest replacing your solid state relay with an electromechanical relay for your heater. SSRs fail in the closed position where EMRs fail in the open position. Would suck to have cascading failures resulting in a fire.
He mention it in the video but he has a mechanical thermostat inline with the relay so it never gets above 45c even if the SSR fails.
Thanks Dave
No, you put a GPIO controlled relay to feed AC to an SSR so you can enable/disable it. That way you can use PID controllers. I do same thing with my AC powered bed heater.
I see in octoprint you can set something up as a pwm output. I wonder if that’s for fan speed or you can set something up for 1 minute on and 1 minute off. If that’s the case, you could control the runtime of your filter so it’s less and cools down the enclosure less.
That's a good question. I would think it was intended for fans, but you might be able to use it for other things.
Hi Chris, nice video. I have several of the Next Gen Enclosures in my work shop. I have a BOFA Print Pro 2 on one machine and it vents the filtered air back into the room. Not bad in the cooler months but during summer....phew! Due to the cost, I found it a bit more cost effective to install 3D Upfitter Carbon Filters on each enclosure. They are USB powered and carbon does a great job capturing the nanoparticles. Just as an extra layer of safety, I have some Honeywell Air Purifiers running the room too.
Thanks for the tip!
That is cool.
Thank you
That video is like Christmas in March 🌲 one thing that could be optimized is bringing back the air into the enclosure (and using not such an expensive and noisy BOFA filter). And maybe lighting effects in combination with an ESP8266 or so? But that's really just options. Super great video.
Thanks for your input!
Hi Chris, first time poster, new to the channel. The filter system is a simple box. the air goes out at the bottom. Why dont you put a box under it and from that box feed the air back into the enclosure. One user pointed out to maybe use the return back to the bottom of the enclosure, That lloks like a good idea at first, but I think it would stire the air a bit too much around the printing bed causing even more warping. the best since you "keep" the temp by recirculating the filtration air would be to keep it on the top but to have both in and out on opposing side and corner
Welcome! I was thinking the same kind of thing, making a 3d printed project out of it to recirculate the hot air. Seems like a good idea to me, I will have to give it a try.
@@ChrisRiley I was also thinking to add a small trap to permit a small amount of the air to go out of the circuit after the filtration so that fume dont excape from the enclosure making the whole system a low pressure system making sure any fume goes out by the filtration system. Thanks for answering ;-)
You could use an IEC plug with a 90 degree bend in it for the PSU - that would make the cable bend a bit less awkward.
Thanks!
Hi chris great video. could you do a version of this video but with klipper and mainsail?
I'll see what I can do!
@@ChrisRileygreat news, cause for mainsail and klipper i didn't saw any video about it, i know it can basically do the same thing with the raspberry pi gpio connectors but the configuration is not user friendly as octoprint. Thanks for all your helpfull videos.
Thanks for the awesome videos. What gauge wiring did you use? It looks like maybe some variation.
Mostly 24G
Did you have to print a plug cover to redirect the power cord like you did on the lack table enclosure or no need on this enclosure? Thanks
Either way, but you probably don't need one. It has a square hole in the back.
Thank you. As always a great and informative video. Could you place the filter inside the enclosure OR just add bag of activated charcoal granules?
HEPA and activated charcoal degrade on efficiency when heated. So putting a filter on the inside doesn't work. Now you can cycle the hot air thru a filter and back into the chamber. The bigger BOFA units have a return hose but they have to be bigger to handle the restrictive air flow and the closed loop system.
@@davidrandolph2724 I believe that the same effect (diminished adsorption) would occur regardless if the activated charcoal was heated within the chamber or by the heated air passing through and external activated charcoal filter. I understand the activated charcoal can be regenerated by heating, but this requires temperatures much high than what would exist within the enclosure. Also, I don't see a need for HEPA (particle) filtration. Am I missing something? Thank you.
Thanks Dave!
@@brentlillesand259 - I have the same thoughts about not needing HEPA filter and just redirecting the warm air back, just for keeping the air warm. I would like to know how much of the VOC would escape from the cabinet to the immediate environment; how the microscopic filament would affect the existing print or not.
@@walterloo1959 a HEPA filter will remove particulate (which is not a by-product of the printing process). The activated charcoal is a sorbent (specifically adsorbent) filter that will remove VOC’s which are a by-product of the printing process. So VOC’s will be removed in the air that passes through the activated carbon.
Good idea having the backup mechanical thermostat. Electronics can/do/will glitch over time. Don't ask me how I know.
How do you know?
😁
@@woodwaker1 I asked you not to ask😜
Let's just say a code glitch left a 4500W water heater element energized too long.
Good video - thanks! Now that the BOFA Pro 1 filter has been discontinued, any suggestions for an alternative?
Not sure yet, I'm not sure what they will be coming out with next. I will ask them.
@@ChrisRiley I bought one 14 months ago, and am not at all happy that it was discontinued so quickly, with no stock of spare filters for purchasers. Effective cost of ownership was $30/month for 14 months which is excessive. Best they can suggest is buy a bigger one for twice the price. Fool me once, etc. Being reluctant to reward them with my money again, I'm looking for an alternative.
I'm a little late on watching this video, but its really great! I'm planning a similar build for one of my MK3's using a Prusabox. Question for you, at what point do you need to replace the PETG parts on the MK3? (Should they be reprinted in ASA or ABS when the internal temp reaches a certain temp?)
Thanks! PETG should be good to 80c ish, but I wouldn't run it that high. With PETG for an extended period I wouldn't run above 50c. Switch plastic, you should be able to get to 70c pretty easy.
@@ChrisRileyI’ve made parts in an enclosure out of inland petg and they did not hold up. Especially when they’re mounted to the hot stepper motors. I’d recommend replacing everything with abs or nylon. Overture easyprint nylon can be printed without an enclosure or a low heat enclosure and advertises temperature resistance up to 180c
Chris. What version of vsCODE did you use on the SKR 1.4 turbo install 2 part series?
Seems like it changes every week. I am currently compiling an SKR 2 build with version 1.65.2
@@ChrisRiley I’ve made changes to the firmware to the T. With same version vsCODE. And ALWAYS (10 times) get error about LPC1769. When I have made changes correctly. I must be doing something wrong 😑
@@ChrisRiley line number in configuration , platformio, and configuration advh in your video are different from vsCODE 1.65. But I matced line contents.
How can the airflow in this type of enclosure be optimized so that there is an almost even temperature everywhere inside the enclosure? The airflow can be enforced with an additional fan/blower but would that, in turn, harm/disrupt the print? Would an exhaust and intake air filtration system help to circulate the air and to establish not only a cleaner air but also better distribution of the hot air? If yes, where would you place the exhaust and intake pipes? Is there a better position for the active heater?
I am seeing a lot of comments like this. I think the recycle of the heated air is the way to go, but I would have to consult with the folks over at printedsolid to talk about the best way to implement it. I think it's something that would be fun to try.
Hello. Do you know if the holes on the smaller square on the side is for 60mm fan? I have a 4” hose and trying to find something that will attach there. Thanks
They all apear to be 50mm apart, so that is a 70mm fan size. So you would probably have to do some cutting.
Replace the power strip with a TPLink HS300 and you can then control all the power with my TPLink plugin too.
That's fancy! :)
@@ChrisRiley even fancier when I just send a file from prusaslicer, cura, or prusaslicer and the outlet automatically powers on, starts the print, and then goes idle and orders off itself. Also available in my Tasmota plugin.
Chris, Is it worth having a ceiling mounted automatic fire extinguishing pod that explodes powder or vents co2/ argon, screwed to inside of enclosure ceiling as a last resort measure - if there smoke or actual fire?
Maybe, thanks!
I would consider using a piece of plywood under the printer to eliminate the need for the center foot.
Thanks for the tip!
Did you consider buyilding a Nevermore DIY recirculating filter?
That's a good idea.
@@ChrisRiley Next all you have to do is build an automatic print bed changing system so you can print continuously. Also, you could build a cowl to redirect the BOFA exhaust back into the chamber to recirculate the clean warm air, keeping the heat in.
@Chris, I hope you're aware that's a DC-DC SSR you're using, not DC-AC. The output terminals of a ZGT-25DD are rated for 220VDC. You'll be wanting an ZGT-25DA instead.
I didn't even notice that's the one I grabbed. I updated the link. Thanks
they don't go high 5v 3.3 at most some pins 1.8v
Thanks
@25:30 Kinda shows the benefits of a purpose-built Enclosed 3D Printer, doesn't it? - The amount of wasted space you have to deal with compared to say a *Voron **_SwitchWire_* ( the closest thing resembling a *Prusa **_i3 MK3S_* ) is best described as _"Ooof... 😑"_
Also, wouldn't it be a good idea to install a large and slow running 120-140mm fan in the enclosure to promote circulation of the air inside? The warm air collecting at the top _kinda_ defeats the purpose of what this is about - No? 🤔
Purpose built printers with enclosures would be better if designed correctly. As for moving the warm air, not sure what that would do, we should test it.
uhh, this raspberry pi terminal is nice
I enjoy it. Very handy
no benchies ?
Lol
Pi outputs are 3v3 volt not 5volt. 5 volts will kill an input
Thanks for the info
my PC / 3d printer builder mind is having an OCD fit because of the wiring
I cleaned it up
@@ChrisRiley I figured you would honestly it's hard to cable manage and do a video in a reasonable manner with time.
but next mod a control box a 3d printed enclosure for the pi + relays + terminal strips. I have a similar setup but I use 1in aluminum angle and door skin from home depot built with rivets and 1/2in foam insulation the inside is reflective. an external 3d printed box hold 1 pi-4 4gb an 8ch relay board 5v buck supply
an external 12v 5amp power brick feeds the control box and an ac mains cable feeds the relays the pi is running kipper mainsail with some custom page's and hosts 2 Webcams. inside the box was a cr-10s 500m ver at one point but now has a 300x300 ac mains bed and water cooled hotend, nema23 steppers and tmc2209 drivers on an skr 1.4 turbo. I print a lot of PC, abs, nylon, peek. bondtech + e3d v6 0.6 nozzle-x like revo but waiting for better nozzles. I print at 80-100mm/s but have crazy high accelerations 10x what the nema 17 big drop in print times chamber hold 100c easy and have had it around 130c a few times. please keep in mind I use this for work doing prototypes and for hobbies I have a 92k$ hp full color 3d printer as well my goal was a reasonably fast structural 3d printer I wanted parts I can stick in an engine bay in the california desert and survive for year's, what I have leaned is at the extremes filament brand makes a bigger impact than type. NY daily is PA-12GF it's 30% glass fiber nylon and crazy strong
Hi
Hi
I like your video but ''Chris's Basement'' sounds a bit... you know xd
Get your mind out of the gutter! ;)
Great channel, Chris. I was literally printing parts for do a Lack enclosure build [nnorton00 version] and saw this project. Having done both a Lack build of your own and also using this enclosure, what's your opinion between the two to be used for a Prusa i3Mk3s+? Which piece works better? This enclosure is only marginally more expensive than the DIY Lack once you price in all the pieces.
Thanks! It's hard to say, I kind of like both. The PS one does a better job as an enclosure, but the Lack is kind of nice as a standalone unit, seeing all the sides really stands out. If you're in need of an enclosure occasionally, I would go Lack. If you REALLY want to use one a lot and need it to be consistent, I would go PS.