3D Printer Enclosure made from 3 Lack Tables
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2023
- I got my first 3D printer but I don't want it sitting on my desk. An enclosure will reduce dust, help with temperature fluctuations, and provide a nice spot to keep my 3D printer out of the way. I built my enclosure using 3 IKEA Lack tables. See the links below to print all parts needed for this enclosure as well as the parts and tools I used:
N.A.L.E. - Not Another Lack Enclosure:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:629...
www.printables.com/model/643482
Ender 3 S1 Pro Mods:
-Extruder Cable Holders
www.thingiverse.com/thing:629...
www.printables.com/model/643476
-Bed Locks
www.thingiverse.com/thing:585...
-Scraper Holder
www.thingiverse.com/thing:593...
-Spool Spacer
www.thingiverse.com/thing:597...
www.printables.com/model/643470
-Display Mount
www.thingiverse.com/thing:535...
Lack Table:
www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lack-sid...
Acrylic / Plexiglass:
www.tapplastics.com/product/p...
Magnets:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5GGSK3F
amzn.to/3FKHKVO (affiliate*)
Coping Saw:
www.amazon.com/dp/B000B3AR04
amzn.to/3QnoYJ0 (affiliate*)
Fine Tooth Coping Saw Blades:
www.amazon.com/dp/B000B3AR4K
amzn.to/3MQRKRp (affiliate*)
UPS:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q
amzn.to/40pPrtT (affiliate*)
Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro 3D Printer:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0BK4BG5SW
amzn.to/49fDGKN (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
N.A.L.E. - Not Another Lack Enclosure:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6296586
www.printables.com/model/643482
Ender 3 S1 Pro Mods:
-Extruder Cable Holders
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6296317
www.printables.com/model/643476
-Bed Locks
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5858852
-Scraper Holder
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5935175
-Spool Spacer
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5970658
www.printables.com/model/643470
-Display Mount
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5359451
Lack Table:
www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lack-side-table-high-gloss-white-60193736/
Acrylic / Plexiglass:
www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/acrylic_sheets_clear/508
Magnets:
amzn.to/3FKHKVO (affiliate*)
Coping Saw:
amzn.to/3QnoYJ0 (affiliate*)
Fine Tooth Coping Saw Blades:
amzn.to/3MQRKRp (affiliate*)
UPS:
amzn.to/40pPrtT (affiliate*)
Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro 3D Printer:
amzn.to/49fDGKN (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Very nice! And here I'd wager most of us just use the standard two-lack stack.
Yeah, I just didn't like the idea of having the filament outside of the enclosure. :)
Thank you. I made this and am very pleased so far. Not quite finished dumpster diving at a local plexiglass supplier (with their ok) to get the other 3 sides. Did get enough to make them if I want to file down corners of some thicker sheets. I made my connectors out of PLA Pro+
I'm glad you like it! That's cool that you found a free source for your plexiglass.
i have the same UPS. it saved my print from a brownout 2 days ago.
Yep, it's cheap insurance to save long prints as well as the printer itself.
very nice, The only problem i have is i don't have the ability to cut up the Plexiglass as i live in an Apartment... But i'd love 2 enclosures for my 2 printers. I was actually concerned for the size of the S1 Pro as its my 2nd printer. But looks like it fits perfect with those slight rear mods.
I had the plexiglass cut at the place I bought the sheet from. Then all I needed to do was cut the small notches at the corners, some notches halfway up on the long edges to accommodate my printed parts, and the holes in the back for the bed and power cables. You could easily do that on your kitchen table with a coping saw. :)
Looks awesome
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)
Thanks Mike! Looks great, sturdy, has storage and plenty of space for expanding the printer in future. I will build it this week.
Any chance you could confirm exactly how many of each file you used? Because of the upgrades/naming conventions I'm a little confused (and because I'm easily confused) and don't want to waste time and filament. I will build it exactly as you did with two doors.
Thank again, great work
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! :) For the lower section, below the printer, you'll need to print 8 of the standard Lack Stackers and 4 Lack Feet. For the upper section, you'll need to print one each of the 8 Lack Stackers that end with the 3 letters. For example: Lack_Stacker_BFL stands for Bottom Front Left or Lack_Stacker_TRR stands for Top Rear Right. You'll also need 4 Lack Couplers, 4 Lack Cones, 4 Lack Hinges, and 2 Lack Door Handles.
Looks cool! I built something similar, i think it was the first iteration of the Prusa lack enclosure years ago, still rocking strong! I was wondering, wont the PSU overheat? With my enclosure it was recommended to place the PSU outside of the enclosure.
Also you can make a shelf below the printer by glueing some shelf holders, glueing onto the lack leggs works great. You can fit some boxes of filament with some tools on top of the shelf. You can also shorten the leggs of the top table with a chopsaw, lower the table a bit and put the filament on top for easier filament changes. Also if your floor is uneven you can chop the bottom legs and add adjustable feet, ( i made some using some ikea cabinet feet, a print that slides in the leg and some nuts inside the print to screw it into)
Also, idk if possible for your printer but could be nice for a future iteration is an angled printbed connector ( i was able to print one for my printer so i didnt have to make a hole in the back panel)
For the PSU cables you can also run them through one of the table mounts saving you another hole in the back panel.
Another nice addon for the enclosure is one of those cheap thermometers so you can check the temperature inside the enclosure, i made a mount for mine so the screen is inside the door, its just a fun little addon doesn't add too much functionality.
If you're ever going to upgrade your printer, getting one with true automatic bed leveling is a godsend. If you're wondering what filament to use, i prefer PETG and PLA. Also if you can, get it with some glitter or something similar, it hides the layerlines very well. ABS is only nice if you're planning to vapor smoothe your prints, other than that, its not worth the smell in your livingroom.
Happy printing!!
Thanks! I hope PSU overheating doesn't become an issue. I thought about making a raised border around the base of the printer and then cutting a small hole in the tabletop to mount a fan to suck heat from inside the printer and blow it out the bottom. That way it wouldn't pull heat from the enclosure, just the inside of the printer. However, so far I've only printed PLA and haven't had the need for a heated enclosure. When and if I ever print nylon, I guess that'll be the PSU heat test.
I didn't like the idea of having the filament spool outside of the enclosure which is why I designed it to be twice as tall as a standard Lack enclosure. With the added height and the door on the right side, it's super easy to swap out the spool.
I looked and looked and looked for a way to modify the bed connector so the cable wouldn't go straight back but I couldn't find a good solution. The best option seemed to be to replace the existing cable for a longer one but I didn't wanna take the mod that far, at least not yet.
Thanks for the comment! :)
@@Mikeattempts Ah that sounds like a good idea! I was lucky enough that i could detach the psu from my printer and the cables are just long enough for them to reach with the psu outside. It'll probably be fine either way.
Yeah having the spool outside does add some dust onto the filament, thats why i need a thingy with some sponge in it that i can click onto the filament to wipe it clean while it prints. Having a door on the side seems nice, wish i had that, now i have to lift the entire top when i need to do serious maintenance.
I completely understand not wanting to mod the printer when its new, especially if you can't find a good enough solution. What you did works fine aswell.
What slicer do you use? I can also recommend prusaslicer since it has great functionality and ease of use for beginnners.
Good luck Fused Deposition Modeling!
@@mick0matic I use Cura but I have heard good things about Prusa Slicer.
Nice job.
is there a print list of how many of each you have to print... also a cutlist dimensions of the acrylic panels?
Thanks! For the lower section, below the printer, you'll need to print 8 of the standard Lack Stackers and 4 Lack Feet. For the upper section, you'll need to print one each of the 8 Lack Stackers that end with the 3 letters. For example: Lack_Stacker_BFL stands for Bottom Front Left or Lack_Stacker_TRR stands for Top Rear Right. You'll also need 4 Lack Couplers, 4 Lack Cones, 4 Lack Hinges, and 2 Lack Door Handles.
If you'd rather have a door on the front and left, instead of the front and right, just move all of the pieces clockwise one place.
The plexiglass I used had a thickness of 1/8" and I had the panels cut to 32.205" x 17.480". That left a small gap around all sides and then I just had to cut the clearances for the printed parts myself.
Thank you brother. @@Mikeattempts
Looks really good. Nice and big for my Ender 3 Max Neo. The noise of mine is hard to listen to when it's in my office, especially on calls. Might have to go for silent fans, but wondered if this would do much to reduce the noise?
It noticeably reduces the noise but it's hard to say how much. Before the enclosure, the printer could be easily heard from the next room. Now I can only hear certain movements.
@@Mikeattempts Great, it all helps as my printer is quite loud. Only downside is, it won't fit on a single Lack table like yours 😏 but I have an idea based on your enclosure, twice as many tables perhaps.... 😂😉
@@raynbow6 Or you could use the legs from the Lack tables but make you own tops?
There's so many kits for the lack table enclosure, was hard to choose.
I agree! :)
Really good project - did you do anything for the ventilation, to reduce the smell of PLA in the living area?
Thanks! I chose the location by the window so venting would be an easy option, if needed, in the future. I could drill a grid of holes in the top corner of the plexiglass, on the left side, print an adapter to mount a low RPM computer fan, connect a flexible tube and stick it out the window. I could even print an adapter for the window, that would extend the length of the pane, to keep bugs out. As far as I know, PLA fumes aren't toxic. The PLA I've printed with so far only has a slight sweet smell which isn't offensive at all. It's even less noticeable now, when printing inside the enclosure. I hope to print nylon in the future and that might be a good excuse to install a vent.
Nice, drilling a grid of holes crossed my mind too - definitely food for thought. Thank you for the response, I just subscribed. 😀
@@r4zi3l57 Thanks, I appreciate it! :)
Nice project gotta go with this. What measurement/kind and how many screws?
Thanks! I used 12mm M3-.50 bolts and nuts to attach the plexiglass and 3/4" #6 wood screws to attach the printed parts to the tables.
I would like to follow your method. But I'm having a hard time painting the top white. Is it possible to make the top reversed in your method? If so, the brown color on the underside can be hidden from view.
I also have a hard time cutting acrylic plates.
3:30 Cutting where the coupler meets the acrylic is the biggest problem.
What if I printed only part of this coupler, so that where the acrylic plate goes, the coupler doesn't exist? lose the rigidity, but you wouldn't have to cut the acrylic, and get a cleaner look.
Is there a way to do this without cutting the corners of the acrylic plate as well?
You could flip the top, so the brown side is hidden, and then drill holes to accept the leg screws. As for cutting the acrylic, a coping saw with a fine-tooth blade would be your best option.
Hi.
on yt 2:22 what's the spec of the screw ?
On yt 3:01 you said that will use the factory holes but, again, what is the spec of screws. Seems you are not using the factory screws (only on the first table.
Thanks
The longer screws, at 2:22, are called "trim-head wood screws". The length isn't as important as making sure they have a small enough head to fit down inside the hole. If you can't find screws like this, you could try gluing the top on. The wider screws, at 3:01, are called "pan-head wood screws". Just take the screws, that came with the tables, to the hardware store to match the width. I can't give you more details on these two types of screws because I pulled them from an unmarked bin of screws that I already had at home.
Thanks for the answer. I’ll buy some of 6/7mm from different sides and heads. I’m from Portugal and the names are differents :)
I’ll post the make soon
Hey Mike.. I am almost there... :)
Could you give me the measurements for the 5 cuta to make on plexiglass ?
Cheers
It wouldn't be a good idea to follow my measurements for those cuts. If your plexiglass wasn't the same exact size as mine, your cuts would be off and the panel would be wasted. Just take very accurate measurements yourself and then add 2 or 3 mm to each cut to allow for clearance. You should triple-check your measurements before making any cuts and don't forget to account for the gap all the way around the outside of the panel. Also, keep in mind that because of the bottom stacker pieces, the center coupler cutouts won't be exactly the same distance between the top and the bottom of the panel.
@@Mikeattempts Thanks. I'll do it but could you show where I need to measure the four edges to cut? I can't figure it out.
@@antoniosa These cuts are to provide clearance around the 3D printed parts that stick out so just measure them and then add 2 or 3mm to each cut. After measuring and marking the plexiglass, hold it up to the opening to make sure everything will line before making any cuts.
@@Mikeattempts I have found a way using the Expanded PVC board as a guide. These boards are cheap and can guide me in the exact cut measure :)
@@antoniosa Ah, that's a great idea, let me know how it goes! :)
Any vibration issues?
Not for me but it probably helps that it's sitting on carpet.
@mikeattempts what is the meassurements of the plexiglass?
The plexiglass I used had a thickness of 1/8" and I had the panels cut to 32.205" x 17.480". That left a small gap around all sides and then I just had to cut the clearances for the printed parts myself.
Perfect, thank you!@@Mikeattempts