Buck converters: Quieten your 3D printer with a Noctua fan & directly power your Pi
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2024
- Buck converters offer great bang for your buck. They allow you to regulate down the 12V/24V power from your 3D printer power supply to use for your Raspberry pi, cooling fans or anything else. This guide will show you how to power your Octoprint Pi in two ways, how to install a Noctua fan for the hot end and configure a larger blower part cooling fan to reduce whine.
Everything is step by step, and all of the components are cheap and versatile. The wiring job I did on my pi connector was ugly I know, the thickness of the wire was too large and the pins needed significant persuasion to enter the connector housing.
The main components of this video were requested by two of my Patrons.
Purchase the Ender 3 from these links:
Ender 3 Pro Banggood ($30 off with coupon 1d1c08): bit.ly/2OUcEyS
Ender 3 Banggood (US warehouse, Coupon: f2bf59): bit.ly/2Efoi6B
Ender 3 Pro Amazon: amzn.to/2DpkbEs
Ender 3 Amazon: amzn.to/2xyJ23s
Ender 3X (glass bed version): amzn.to/2I7dG85
Amazon goodies:
Buck converters (6 for $10): amzn.to/3oDQGoe
2 to 1 XT60 adaptor (2 for $8): amzn.to/2RJe4NM
Bare XT60 connector (10 for $8): amzn.to/2D9r7DS
Dupont wiring kit ($12): amzn.to/2D9YI0w
Dupont crimping tool ($10): amzn.to/2RHBFhB
Wire strippers ($20): amzn.to/2D823xk
Heat shrink ($8): amzn.to/2DqSs5u
Noctua 40x10mm silent fan ($14): amzn.to/3GtsPxk
Noctua 40x20mm silent fan ($15): amzn.to/3rNYvtb
24v 5015 blower fan (2 for $11.50): amzn.to/2PUJFP2
Banggood:
Buck converters (10 for $10): bit.ly/2POMHEG
2 to 1 XT60 adaptor ($2 each): bit.ly/2z1kG2Z
Bare XT60 connector (10 for $6): bit.ly/2RHAOO1
Dupont wiring kit ($9): bit.ly/2zAZVus
Dupont crimping tool ($11): bit.ly/2QnyWtw
Wire strippers ($10): bit.ly/2Qxns73
Heat shrink ($4): bit.ly/2qCZcol
‘Ultra quiet’ 24V 5015 blower fan ($2 each): bit.ly/2JRhBH6
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #buckconverter #noctua
Some good discussion in the comments from some knowledgeable people. Here are some additional (and clarifying) thoughts:
1. Yes, you should shut down the pi first before killing the printer power. Forgot to film this, but it is best practise.
2. Despite the fact that I have shown ways of using less than 24V fans on a 24V system, and the fact that the developers of Marlin have acknowledged this as a solution and included it in their firmware. You are better off just using a 24V blower for part cooling. This is why my shopping links below are for 24V blowers.
3. The Noctua 40x10 fan I used flows less air than the cheaper fan that came with the printer. I have had zero issues so far with prints since fitting it, perhaps this is because I have a Hero Me duct fitted, which when I tested it seems to have a better seal around the hot end heat sink. A larger 40x20mm Noctua fan is linked below, and for only a dollar more, is definitely a safer bet to prevent heat creep and potential clogs.
4. The gauge of the wire I used was overkill. I mentioned this in the video and had a note in the description. That's what I had at the time, it still works, just harder to make the Dupont connectors neatly.
5. Some people in the know have commented that the capacitor is not a great idea. I tend to agree, and I don't recommend it, when enabling soft_PWM fixed the whine anyway.
The linked Noctua 40x20 is a 5v fan. Unfortunately, Noctua doesn't make a 24v fan in either the 40mm or 50mm size range.
Teaching Tech I see you mention a4x10pwm on the list but you used a4x10 flx Noctua .The difference matters or not?
James that is to use with the buck converter.
Ozzy since they are running at 100% permanently I don't believe it matters.
www.overclockers.co.uk/noctua-nf-a4x20-flx-5000rpm-fan-40mm-fg-05w-nc.html
For other people's reference. It's a shame they don't have room for 80mm fans be quiet pure rock fans are amazing
Here is a tip for soldering those XT60 connectors... Plug them together before soldering, this stops the pins pulling out of line when the plastic gets soft during soldering ;)
and it stops the plastic deforming making them tight to get back together. if they heat up and cool down together they will fit better together its an RC thing
Exactly what I was looking for! My Ender 3's mainboard fan just started making a horrible racket a few days ago. Gonna swap it out now for some Noctuas
After watching your previous guides I decided to go with the EZABL rather than the BTouch, while looking at the TH3D site I found an additional item that I don't think you've mentioned, their Raspberry Pi direct wire power adapter (that will power both a Pi and their EZABL directly from the power supply).
Thank you for for this video as I've been wondering how to use Noctua fans.
I was searching for power regulators and found this video. I had been watching your Videos for weeks as I just bought a CR 10S Pro. I use it to print 3D parts for my Model Train. Currently a Smoke Generator using a Fan to puff every stroke of the steam engine. When I saw your face and heard your voice I was shocked, but you used the Buck Convertor exactly the way I need to for my Smoke Heater Coil and MIni DC Can motor. I watched the video and yes I need quieter fans too. But then I saw the links OMG! about $1 is all I need to fix my problem. Now I can build the 6 Smoke Kits for my Train buddies and allow then to simply bring track voltage up to the smoke and the Buck Convertor will keep the heater coil at the correct temperature and not melt my 3D printer housing!!!!! It was an awesome night, thank you so much. And I love the 10S Pro my first smoke housing off of it was like jewelry.
great video, if you turn the crimp connectors over in your tool for the Dupont kit you will find that it crimps better and you are less likely to have one of the upright legs get damaged.
I got a pack of those LM2596 buck converters off of amazon awhile back. Pretty useful little modules. How I tend to solder my power wires on them is to first put a small bead of solder on all four of the pads, then all you have to do is heat up the bead and pad and press the appropriate wire lead into the melted solder. I also tend to give the lead of the wire a touch from the well tinned iron to get the solder to stick around it; that helps with welding the lead to the pad and making a sturdy connection.
Great info, thanks for sharing.
Do you read minds?? I just bought a Noctua fan and was thinking: " Damn, it would be awesome if TT made a video about Installing the fan and the step down". Thank you a lot
@Teaching Tech First, thank you so much for all your help! Your videos so much detailed and helpful! I made this silent upgrade on my Ender-3, and found a much much better solution for 12V part cooling fan. Here's the deal: (On SKR Mini E3 boards, but guess it is the same on factory Ender mobo) The part cooling fan output is strange. The positive terminal is a CONSTANT 24V, and the ground is connected/disconnected via the PWM! It is crazy! So grab your DCDC step-down converter, connect it's positive input to the mobo fan 24V output, but you need to connect the DCDC ground input to a constant ground! Like on the power supply. Limit down the converter to 12V, then connect your 12V fan in the following way: The fan's 12V wire goes to step-down converter positive output, but the fan's ground is goes to the mobo fan ground.
In this way the fan gets a constant 12V from the converter, and a PWM ground from the motherboard. It works! You change the fan speed on the printer between 0% and 100%, and the voltage on the fan changes between 0V and 12V. When you drive your fan 100% then there's no PWM sound at all. No need to change anything in the FW.
This is very interesting! It would make things so much easier! Have you tested this on SKR Mini E3 V2 as well?
Just getting around to the video, but I can confirm (from right around the 5:00 min mark, the BTT SKR v1.3 does NOT have enough current to run the RPi running from one of the Max_Endstops (I measured about 1.9A from the X_Max) and Octoprint just wouldnt load. Great video, keep em up Mike.
you definitly can remove the coil whine with a capacitor. you just need a bigger one. i have tested it and the lower pwm you want to use without coil whine the bigger the capacitor has to be. but at really low pwm it takes some time before the fan starts to spin.
Wow what perfect timing! Working out the details of this upgrade was going to be my weekend project this week. Now I may be able to get everything in time to do the actual upgrade by Sunday. Thanks for another great video!
The downside of using the controller box power supply is that you will not have an independent power supply for the pi. By having a separate power supply if you're using a relay to shut off the power in the event of thermal runaway you will still be able to monitor the Webcam feed to ensure that you don't have to call someone locally to put it out or contact the fire dept. I have a fire detection unit connected to pi as a safety also. Hope this helps.
Not to mention, if you want to work on the raspberry pi only (like updating / adding packages, doing changes on octoprint, uploading files, etc...) you'd need to turn on the printer also, which is a waste of power and noise
Just plug the pi into a different power supply? It's not like you're permanently modifying the board.
as always your videos are well laid out,we appreciate all the time and effort you put into it.couldnt imagine the amount of research time.i have a similar system in the work using a little bigger regulator with voltage display.youve done a nice job.keep the vids coming.
Do you ever sleep? Great video, a little over my head! But I do understand what you did. Thanks!
I placed a buck converter for 12V into the PSU. And to avoid troubles i made 24V-XT60 and 12V-XT30
Very nice install job as usual. Excellent tutorial.
I'd make it a little higher like 5.1-5.2 even. At least usually works. because when drawing large amounts of current and using long wires the voltage tends to drop. and the raspberry Pi tends to like higher voltages by a little (you get that annoying voltage drop error icon otherwise)
I think shutting down the printer power supply by octopi controlled relay may be better and definitely the ultimate quiet (and power saving) solution. You can buy it super cheap and use octoprint plugin for smart control. Yes, you have to power up octopi separately but it is not much of an issue since it runs great on any 2.1A phone USB charger.
even better, get a Sonoff (IoT relay) from your favourite chinese supplier and use octopi to power on/off your printer (don't forget to read up about safety!)
Thank you, it's a very valuable information you provided here. I tried to install the power supply for the RPi from the PSU of my Ender 3 but run into problems with the buck converter (LM 2596). After wiring, the input side shows a voltage of 24V. On the output side, measured on the connector points (no wiring there yet) it shows always 0V whatever the position of the 'adjustment' screw is. I turned it clockwise and also counter-clockwise. The multi-meter always shows a voltage of zero. I tried 2 different LM2597, in both cases the output is zero. Any advise what I may do wrong? Thanks
Personally i would not heat shrink the converter because the componets will generate heat and heat shrink will keep it in. Id print a box for it that allows for air to get in and out.
good advice
I like this, post it on thingiverse
if it is an actual buck converter it should be over 90% efficient and will generate very little heat
@@jasonm2477 Yes but still... a Raspberry-pi can use up to 2.5 Amps, if you have a nice camera, small display and some lights added to it, it will be well over 3 Amps. Cheap buck converters don't work that efficient if they are used close to their max. continuous use, so say about 80% efficient, 20% loss (I did actually measure on converters like shown in the video).
3 Amps is 15 Watts at 5 V, so you will using about .3 Watts in the buck-converter and it will be getting pretty warm after a while. Of course these higher loads are only if you are printing fast with camera and display on but without cooling this is a bit much.
That said, I have one hooked up in heatshrink and I noticed that it painful to my hands so I changed it to a more open aproach later and started calculating just then...
@@jasonm2477 other youtubers have shown the efficiency to be on average 75%
To control my 40mm board fan on my A8 I just spliced the negative side with a trimpot before going to the supply. Although it's 12V with a 12V fan and I'm only stepping it down a little bit as it was a bit noisy on full power. I guess you needed the buck because 24V down to 12V is a bit of a heat dissipation issue?
Man, I have almost as much $ in parts planned for my Ender as the printer itself cost and haven't even taken delivery. 😨😁😂
That's half of the fun :)
@@TeachingTech TH3D released a vid taking exception to your suggestion to use the 4010 fan due to heat creep on longer prints. He didn't say anything about the 4020 other than he doesn't stock Noctua at all. He might not have read through where you corrected some details in the comments.
I guess this field is like cars; no 2 behave the same and what works for 1 may not work for another.
Thanks for your productions, I've learned a lot in a short time.
I've close to doubled the cost of my ender with the additions. mine is a week old now, and I don't regret a thing!
Yep, 300 on printer 300 on mods. Funsies!
at this point youd be better off buying a prusa to save you time. unless the project is what you’re after
Wonderful vid mate!
Couple of things, the crimping tool link for Banggood doesn't work no more. could you redo? or which one do you recommend?
Also you use a noctua FLX fan but link to PWM, does it matter which one to get? the one you recommend is 12v but link to a 5v. does that matter?
Thanks in advance!
What would you think about a USB power hub being installed and powered by the Ender 3 power supply? I was thinking this would be good for powering the pi as well as other devices like USB flexible LED lights for lighting the build plate.
That software fan solution is a great idea. Thanks. I have to say. The first time i have stumbled upon you, i didn't like your videos (7 printable upgrades for ender 3, Four ways to beat moire on your 3D printer). Since then your content got much better (How to tune your slicing settings video has helped me quite a bit). Keep up the good work.
Its not. The meter averages 50% duty pwm to 12V but you still getting impulses of 24V just with 50% duty cycle. You need LC filter to smooth it out.
Another thing is You coud do everything with just 1 buck converter to 12V. Every fan/heater is ground(-) switched with n-mosfet so you can put the positive (+) side of the fans to the 12v output of the Buck converter
@@tomaszbiskup891 don't see that you necessarily need to filter the signal. The electronics of these fans is universal between 12V and 24V, what happens if you connect a 12V to 24V, is that they will run way too fast, too loud, and will dissipate more heat on the motor windings than they can survive for any length of time. If you can just limit the amount of energy absorbed even just by crude PWM, it's fine.
@@SianaGearz I agree with You about motors but maybe some of the Hall sensor in fan cant handle higher voltages. When you change duty cycle You control the amout of energy to the fan and inertia average speed of blades.
But its wrong to say that PWM regulate Voltage. 50% PWM of 24v its not really 12V especially when You put capacitor on the output.
Problem with buck converter is that you you lose speed control. Right now i have all my fans on one buck converter and i am looking for a solution for speed control and looks simple and functional enough. Btw. Can you guys check your ender 3 power supply fan? Mine was rated for 12V and connected to 24V rail. It has worked 6 months like that (also solved with buck convertor).
Great video, but creality printers now have a shared 24v+ to the heater and both fans. They control the pwm using the 0V- line that runs back to the board on each component. If you know what could be done about that I'd be highly interested!
You should use thinner wire, because consumption of rapsberry pi is not that high. And when you setup voltage you should set higher not lower, to 5.2v. Instead of using buck converter for fan you can use a about 50 ohms 1w resistror, it depends on how much speed you want.
I bought 5V fans, they are cheaper and connected them all to 5v port , job done , no need any voltage coverter !!! double savings on money , and time ,and no adding extra unnecessary components !
Hey Michael, thanks for the vid mate! Any idea how to wire up a 12v mobo fan to avoid PWM killing the buck converter? Got a skr mini v3 on an ender 3
i started prepping for this. hoping for no "magic smoke"
Best vid yet!
Awesome video can you please help install noctua fans for resin 3d printers? I have phrozen mighty 4k, 8k, mini 8k.
FWIW, the 5V out on the SKR Mini e3 1.2 provided my Pi an undervoltage. Haven't checked how far under but needless to say, it's not sufficient.
have the LM2596 gotten super hot? i read on the manufacturers page that they require a heat sink for anything over 2 amps.
This was great. could you do a video on converting the Anycubic Viper to Marlin 2.0 please? I haven't been able to find one. Or convert it to the BTT SKR1.4 Turbo as I have a spare board. Thanks any keep up the good work!
Hi! Thanks for the video, what fan duct are you using here?
New thought, instead of the 1 to 2 XT60, why not use the extra terminals on the PSU and add 2 more leads out for 3 24v XT60's (or whatever connector preferred) available for extras? (Going from the Ender 3 both new and old PSU seems to have 3 sets of terminal outs).
Love all your guides btw!
That's a great suggestion, I hadn't thought of looking under the PSU cover for spare terminals.
About the black noctua fans shown in your video, can you make a video showing us how to paint it if that's what you did?
Hi, this video is awesome and it really raised my motivation enough to get into soldering and doing these "hard mods" haha.
Can I ask what did you print to hold the hot-end fan? Thanks!
I belive that was Hero Me, check this out www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970
Not sure if I'd consider a gas flame "mild heat" :)
I cringed a bit too! A micro soldering torch is far more accurate source of heat.
I often use a blow torch, much faster
THe tip you mentionned, about taking the main board's alimentation,would that be good if I were to install LEDs? They require 12V and I have the BTT skr v1.2
Thanks for the great videos. Anyone knows if it's possible to connect the buck converter directly to the 24V PSU than connect the Rasperry Pi to the buck converter (5V)?
Can probably de-rate that output a bit after wrapping it in a cozy plastic blanket to decrease heat radiation.
Any chance you could give us an update on how long you ran that 12V fan at 24V 50% PWM? Did it last or burn up pretty quickly.
Is it possible to regulate the voltage of the hotend fan throught firmware? From 24V to 12V
Hi Michael, first of all, thank you very much for your always useful videos.
I've installed 2 x Noctua Fan on my Ender 3 (mainboard and hotend sink), but I'm not totally satisfied about the final results. I could see that the fan comes with an adaptor (that consists of a resistor) to further decrease the noise. From what I could understand from a CHEP video, this adaptor would slow down the fan, have you tried it? I'm obviously afraid that if used, then not enough air passes through the fan, but unluckily I have not temperature sensor to evaluate the cooling efficiency with the adaptor installed.
Great tips, I've got two voltage regulators on my Ender 3, one to power a 92mm Zalman fan that I used to replace the PSU fan and one to power a 12V LED strip.
I wouldn't used one for the Pi simply because I'd have to keep the Ender 3 on all the time as cutting the power to Pi without shutdown will undoubtedly cause OS corruption due to the nature of Linux.
I definitely want to update my Hotend fan and main board fan now though, so much quieter and I've already got dampeners fitted.
One thing worth mentioning is that there's a slightly neater way of wiring the voltage regulators than using a double XT60 connector. If you open the PSU and remove the plastic cover on the bottom there are a few spare terminals available on the terminal block which output 24V. I just crimped some connectors to the positive and negative wires that go to the regulator and connected them directly to the spare PSU terminals.
Great tip, I didn't think to check the PSU connectors.
@@TeachingTech thanks for the reply. Yeah I've found it pretty neat like that. Currently got an led strip set up around the frame that comes from a voltage regulator that's connected to the terminal connectors. Makes it look a bit more stock I think
Quick suggestion is when your soldering a xt60 have the other end of the plug in do you don't warp the plastic
Would you still recommend using the Noctua fans compared to sound fans where you would not need buck converters?
I saw a video that stated to cut a USB cord and to solder it to the buck converter, then to plug it in to the "J1 Power In" on the Raspberry Pi (The power source would be a Y spliter from the XT60 cable from your main power source). Is that acceptable to have the "J1 power in" USB hookup from the buck convertor?
Hi there hope you can help i have changed my hot end fan to the same one in your video and used the same buck converter and that side of it is now working great. but now my part cooling fan seems to make this strange buzzing pulsing sound that changes with speed but almost goes when at full speed are you able to help with this.
I have a Ender 3v2 with a 4.2.7 Silent board
Cheers in advance
Hi, thanks for your great videos. I just bought my first 3d printer which is the Ender - 3 pro, and I have been following your videos along to get into this hobby. I am wondering now, if I can use the damper on the pro version as well since the gear on the step motors can't be pulled out. Have you tried installing dampers on the pro version yet?(Sorry, its a little bit off topic)
My version went straight on, but I'm increasingly reading about users in the same situation as you. Hopefully my next Creality printer has this so I can investigate.
Which fans are PWM and which are on/off? Hotend/partcooling/mainboard/psu ?
How about using two 12v fans in series for the part cooling? That should work also.
Thanks for the video!
You want to use a CERAMIC smoothing capacitor. Electrolytic wont smooth the harmonic frequencies in the PWM signal 'fast enough'.
You need an LC filter - look it up
Hey Michael,
I am not sure if I got this right: At 5:17 min you talk about avoiding buck converters completely. Does this mean I can simply power my Raspberry pi 3 from the Ender 3 mainboard with a simple 2 wire connector (using your wire diagram at 5:31 min)? That would be absolutely awesome! Or did I get this wrong?
Greetings from Germany
Michael
how do i check if my PSU is Capable of powering Motherboard AND Raspberry pi at once?
is there a Video or something that explain that topic further?
A 220uF Cap is way to big in my opinion, you'd need something like a RC fitler to really improve that.
I'd start with a 0.1uF ceramic, I doubt that you need a polarized cap. Interesting experiment #437.
Which aftermarket fan duct do you recommend for this mod. There’s so many to choose from online.
i was about to say pwm when reduced make alot of noisy but nice to see you can change the frequancy to make it quieter :D
9:06 for the code timestamp for me :D
How do I find out if the creality 4.2.7 silent motherboard I have installed has a voltage regulator onboard please? This is so I can power a Raspberry Pi direct without the need for additional buck converters as shown in the video, thanks.
Apologies if this has been asked before, but isn't it also an option to take a ring crimped lead from the spare terminals on the power supply and takign that to the buck convertors. This is instead of modifying the original XT60 connector? less joints, and simpler connections...
Can I just use a XT60 splitter instead of the double adapter? Accomplishes the same thing yeah?
Would 22 gauge wire be ok for everything in this video?
Are you using Dupont connectors for speed and convenience in case you want to swap the fans out or something? Why do you go for Dupont connects instead of just soldering together? Thanks in advance
Can you create a video discussing the ender-3 mods you have shown in earlier videos and which if any of these would also work on a cr-20 and benefit the cr-20 - thank you
If I had a CR20, then yes.
I run my Pi off a 20k USB backup battery pack. I was afraid that auto resume would fail off pi was reset. Is that not the case?
used your marlin bl touch vid followed every stept , yours no errors mine errors and can't figure how to start over
Hows the temp on the converter? I was thinking off running somewhere with a fan
I did wire up the cooling fan exactly like you showed, a Noctua 12V fan, and the buck converter is putting out 12V when the fan is set to 100% (255). However on lower speeds the voltage is too low then and the fan won’t start spinning. Even on 20% the voltage isn’t enough. How did you get around that?
why'd you set the buck converter to just under 5v instead of exactly 5v?
I wonder if the newer boards have a 5v line that could be directly wired to a pi, similar to what is shown at 5:38?
Just to get this clear, can i just set the max PWM for fans under 24v and not use the buck converter? or is that just for the sake of understanding that the default 100% means 24v?
Where to Find the Relay Someone mentioned to me a YYG-2 Relay but wich Voltage?
24, 12 or 5v ?
The PSU is 24 the
Pi is 5v Wich one to use?
I AM LOST XD
Thanks for the informative video!! Along these lines I was thinking of adding 2 Noctua fans, one for my hot end and the other for my electronics. With that said instead of using a buck converter, my idea was to use 2 NF-A4x10 FLX 12v fans and run them in series off of the hot end connection. This should drop the voltage down for both fans to 12v and have them both running 24x7, which is what I want vice the electronics fan being tied to the parts cooling fan. Is this a realistic solution, or is there something that I am not considering that will cause me problems down the road?
Did this work for your printer? I am also considering to put 2 40x20mm noctua fans in series
A good idea for a vid would be to try neopixel add on for temp related colours shown in marlin. I have neopixel stick added under the chin at front of the bullseye. It’s great as white but temp indication and ready indication etc would be cool. I can’t find anywhere aside from a repo that says it needs separate temp sensor and that it can’t be done from the Creality board?? Say it ain’t so! Lol.
biggest thing for ender 3 owners is get a silent board from creality, it works amazingly. took my ender 3 which sounded like soviet aviation technology and now all i can really hear is the fans, im shocked by how well it works, itll only set you back about $30 aswell
Just a heads up, the affiliate link for the Noctua fan is a PWM 4 wire fan. Didn't realize it until it got here. If anyone else gets that fan, the yellow wire is the 12V.
Do you have a link to the wire you’re using?
Maybe add the appropriate type/gauge wire to the shopping list too?
Yes! I have been trolling around Amazon and cannot find a wire with both leads in one sheath. (I have seen in other videos that 16 AWG is used)
@@toofpyk3923 found this... www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Nimbus-Conductor-CMP-Rated-Speaker/dp/B017SDE0KM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=16+gauge+double+insulated&qid=1595382078&sr=8-5 labeled as speaker wire...
Hi. I can hardly get normal (not silence) 40 x 40 24 volts fans but I can find 25 x 25 24 volts fans easily. Is this 25 x 25 enough to keep cool the extruder?
I see from many reviews that a lot of these XT60 adapters are very cheaply made. Is it simply recommended to make your own? A lot of them say "no wires" and yet they have the crappiest solder job ever. But I guess adding a wire to solder them good would have some other kind of impact?
sooo, without looking I bought the 40x20mm noctua fans for computer case and fan shroud of the ender 3, not seeing that it was 5v. I compared it with the 40x10mm 12v noctua fan and the 5v version has better airflow on the specs, so I'll just set the buck converter to 5v, would this still be okay for the fan shroud of the hot end? I don't have a fancy heat camera.
What’s the highest voltage I should set buck converter for hotbed noctua fan 40x10?
I'm currently printing a hero me fan duct that has a duct fan on each side, if I get a second part cooling fan, do I need to do anything special or can they both be powered from the same port on the mainboard?
I also think that the partcooling fan is going to be the lowdest part of the printer after replacing the main cooling fan with a noctua. I'm considering replacing it with a 2x 40mm noctua setup with an appropriate airduct. But that's some heavy investments in noctua fans...
In Aus they are stupid expensive, I understand.
quite fans push less air PLA heat creep is a big problem 24v fans push more air, just use something to dampen vibration, larger fans are also quiet.
I noticed that the mainboard fan also isn't exactly quiet plus the hole in the lid is smaller than the fan. So I'm gonna print a new lid and put another noctua fan in as mainboard fan. I also want this fan to be powered off the hotend cooling fan so it will run all the time (standard fan connector only runs if part cooling fan is running). Can anyone tell me if I could just hook it up to the buck converter in addition to the hotend cooling fan? If so how would one best split the female dupont connector?
Should you not use one of the other available power sources on the supple rather than splitting the boards supply
If the hot end fan is on all the time, why connect it via the main board?
Why not do what you did with the Pi and connect the converter direct to the main supply?
I‘ve heard about several cases where the hotends mainboard got fragged which is assumed to be caused by the step down converter as the mainboard reacts sensitive to them. Do you have any opinion on that?
If I was to change both hotend and board fans for noctua would I need two buck converters?
Anyone have recommendations for what wire size/type to use for the buck? I’m thinking 16 on the in side and 24 on the out?
The primary purpose of a buck converter is not as a voltage regulator but rather a voltage multiplier. Of course a voltage regulator is employed for the new voltage.
I really dont know, but shouldnt the capacitor be attached to the fan in series (not parallel)?
One thought, what do you think about (if possible) hacking a micro usb cable so it connects to the buck in the other end instead of having a regular USB connector there? (Thus using it to feed the Pi normally)
Think I found the answer. This should do the trick, just attack the GND and +5v cables and connect to the buck.
www.amazon.com/VizGiz-Connector-MicroUSB-Replacement-Raspberry/dp/B07BMLMZ72/
doesn't the PSU have extra 24v screw terminals? why not use those instead of a XT60 Splitter?
You shouldn't put electrolytic capacitors across motors because of the back emf. 0.1uf ceramics are usually recommended. I'm not sure about brushless motors though, they would end up too far upstream of the motor itself.
.1 ceramic is for electrical noise not audible noise.
How can i check a xt60 splitter? Already burn One board because a defective splitter 🙁