How to Build Golf Clubs CLOSE UP
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2023
- In this video I show all the steps for building a set of irons. Everything has been filmed close up to help show all the details.
Check out my other channel, Elite Fit Golf
/ elitefitgolf
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Hi AJ, thank you for your Video’s on club making I have now fitted new shaft’s in my old club and the results are amazing thank to your tutorials. I really appreciate your information and content which has made it possible for me to make this project work for me.
I just built my set of ZX7 MKII irons this weekend. I had to switch shafts from the Nippon Modus 3 to Dynamic Gold X100.
Beautiful job AJ! 👍
Excellent video, A.J. !!
This is like my dream set. Thanks for all your videos. I just built up a similar set of last years model.
Terrific video as usual! Building a set for my son and tips are exactly what the doctor ordered. Appreciate them
I really nice work and well explained.😊
Smashing irons AJ!
The zx7 AW looks beautiful. I was going to como z4 and zx5 but I might add the zx7 at the end
Love it
great Video nice job
I want these clubs!
Thank you!!
great!
Need this video because I was planning to rebuild my TM SLDR irons with new heavier shafts. But I seems easier to just buy a set of Takomo 201s in my specs because I don't have access to a bending machine. Still love the great work AJ.
Those sldr irons are so underrated. Such a great combo of size and forgiveness.
AJ Great and extremely helpful video!! The one thing I never see touched on in any club build videos is the angle that the clubs should be placed in when drying. It looks like you've used some wood trim pieces on your bench to create a specific drying angle for the clubs, Can you tell me what the best angle to dry the clubs is to keep the shaft centered in the hosel? Thanks!
I try to give the clubs some angle to dry at so there is less pressure while they dry. I try to always ensure the fit is snug so I don't need to worry about shaft lean but just in case I like to set vertical with a contact point inline with the shaft. Figure the angle is around 30 degrees.
Hey AJ, thanks for the video
I've seen a few diff vids now on cub building and just assume it's how you learn. 7:21 you place a small amount of epoxy to hold the ferrule in place. I just use the excess from the shaft runoff and I also place some inside the hosel of the head and twist the shaft to ensure it's coated well. Ferrule stays in place and so does the shaft to head. Learned more about swing weight thanks.
Short term, the epoxy for the ferrules doesn't matter. Long term I am not sure if it might help and since it only takes 5 seconds to do, I've started doing it.
What grit is that on your belt sander? Also, the bit you use? And the linen buffer?
Almost exact specs of my next set.
AJ, a question on the tape. Is it necessary to remove the paper o the tape itself once put the tape on the shaft? so tape amd grip can stick together. I didn't see you remove the paper from the tape in the video.
Seems like tip weights would shift the CoG from design specs?
Hey AJ Cheers from Delaware. You make great videos and your knowledge about club builds is incredible. Just about every video that you do is with .355 taper tip iron shafts. I know you prefer them for their consistent, static weight. I am building a set using .370 parallel tip shafts and was wondering if you have videos on the shaft trimming, weighting and swing weight balancing of a set built with these types of irons. Do you weigh the shafts and keep the heavier ones for the 9 & PW or keep them for the 4 & 5? for .370 are you more inclined to need to add some grams of weight to a club or two to match get swing weights correct? Appreciate all the help your videos provide.
I don't think I have ever done that video. (Adding it to my list now). As for weight sorting, I use the heavier shafts in the short irons usually. Just make sure that they are actually heavier and not just slightly different lengths that will show up as weight differences.
Any SW difference should be pretty small vs constant weight.
@@EFGMC if you’d like, I can send you my components! I am building a set of the Acer XV Tours and I will be inserting a dowel into the hosel, and I will also be stamping a shamrock on the back of the face. I was fitted in an extra half inch length, so I will trim the tip up an extra 1/16 or 1/8 because the extra half inch may soften the flex to some minute degree. Currently gaming Titleist CB714 but I am building these on an itch to scratch.
Would love to see this video as well.
@@EFGMC I am building my Acer XV Tours and I have filmed essentially every step. I tried to build them as close to perfect as one would in your club making studio. I am also going to stamp the clubs to make them my own! If you look up ACER XV TOUR BUILD after the holiday you can see and comment on my work. Thanks a bunch!
Sir, my screw stripper in my driver, can I epoxy everything for a tourney in two days until I can replace the adapter? Do you think it'll hold with 5 minute epoxy?
When you made the irons 1 inch over standard length that automatically makes them more upright going longer??
Hi AJ,
Great TH-cams! I’ve learned a lot. So I will be practicing with some club making but I would appreciate it if you would suggest a good way to select iron, hybrid and driver heads and shafts so that I can start experimenting as a hobby. I have a GCQuad launch monitor and setup a simulator that I use but the choices are so vast that I could use sone help with a “starter” set . Thank you and especially thank for the great content.
Are these for practicing club making or actually looking for gamer clubs to use?
@@EFGMC I would like to use for fitting then becoming my gamer clubs. I would also like to be able to modify them.
@@donmachen4762 Some brands are easier to work with. Mizuno, Srixon, Taylormade usually. Stay away from Ping, Callaway, and PXG when starting out as they are always more involved.
Would you consider doing consulting with me? If so, what’s the best way to discuss? Thank you.
@@donmachen4762 Email me what you were thinking.
adam@elitefitgolf.com
Great video. Where do you buy your heads from? I'm having a hard time finding ....
I have accounts with OEMs
Aj got double sided sticky tape on the dispenser (1st time regripping today😃😃 so total novice.. So people might think this is a dumb question ..How do you get thst top backing paper off without putting kinks in the tape??
It's player specific, but if the customer said it felt too heavy, what would you do to bring the swing weight down closer to D0 or so? I'm not much of a fan of back weighting. How about you?
shaft length is the reason these are higher swing weight but I would look for a suitable grip that's heavier before changing the head weight
Great video as always, but when did you start putting epoxy on the ferrules? I've watched your earlier videos and I don't recall you putting epoxy on them...
On a side note do you have an email address for questions? I have a question about shaft weight going from steel to graphite and I wouldn't want to clog up your comments section.
Yeah, I tweaked my method slightly with the light epoxy ring I put on the shaft. Not sure it makes a bit of difference in holding the ferrule down long term, but as it only adds 2 seconds per club during assembly, I figure why not.
aj@smartstake.com
Excellent video, I am wondering how much do youo charge for this job? I have a set of clubs that I would like to change Grips and Ferrules.
Email me.
adam@elitefitgolf.com
ALready did, THanks.@@EFGMC
Hi, how much layer of tape did you use for the build up👍🏾❤️⛳️
This was 5 layers as per request.
AJ, a couple questions if you have the time. Do you confirm the head weights before beginning or are they always marked in their individual bags? If you have a customer like me who knows all of their component choices, prefers a D0-D1 swing weight, but the initial weight comes in around D5, what extra precautions do you take, if any, to get the swing weight down apart from a few grams placed here or there?
I dry fit everything together first to find the SW for matching purposes. If a set comes out heavy, options are limited. Either we have to switch out to lighter shafts, or drill out the heads. You won't ever see me adding weight to the grip end for the sole purpose of bringing down a SW.
@@EFGMC Thank you for the continuing education!
@@EFGMC I've seen grip weights vary 12-16 grams in the same size from model to model, I'd see if we could find a grip that allows for the change before drilling, agreed?
@@esnyd If you can find a light one you like, that's an option. Problem is many of the lighter grips have a unique feel to them.
Nice work 👏🏻👏🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Great video! I have a dumb question though. It seemed like you used the 4 iron as the “baseline” swing weight. Is that how it’s typically done? Just use the longest club?
No, I check the whole set and then see what I have to do to get them all in line. The heaviest club in the set will usually dictate what the rest need to be since it's way easier to add weight than take it away.
Are iron shafts tipped like woods and hybrids ?
Depends on the shaft.
Do you use the 60 degree USGA method for all clubs?
Yes
Hey AJ, dumb question for you about shafts. Can I buy a bunch of 5 iron length shafts and then just cut them down to size for each one of my clubs? Or do I need to get specific shafts for the specific clubs? I’m 6’3 so looking to lengthen all my standard length clubs about 1/2”
Will depend on what irons you are reshafting. Some irons are taper tip (.355) diameter, some are parallel (.370) and ideally you want the matching shaft and head. Parallel shafts are usually sold as blanks that you both cut from the tip to achieve the correct flex for the particular iron, and then cut from the butt end for final length. Taper iron shafts come from the factory already (tipped) the correct amount for each particular iron so they only need to be butt cut to length.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the reply!
I have p790 Ti irons (.355 tip) and I just put on Steel Project X Flighted 5.5 Shafts (.355). I purchased all 5iron shafts and then cut them all down, but I’m thinking that was a mistake. My swing weights in them also get progressively heavier PW-5 versus the other way around.
@@jakeobson Your short irons are going to be more flexible and your long irons will be stiffer than they would ideally be.
Is there a chart for standard length for all irons, not taking golfer height length and adjustments into account?
A "standard" 5 iron is 38 inches usually. Each higher lofted club drops in 1/2 inch intervals until you get to the wedges where it drops to 1/4 in intervals. At least this is how I do it.
@@EFGMC thanks!
What is the fit like without the small collared/lipped ferrules srixon would use as standard. I guess shafting beads make everything snug so you can use BB&f ferrules?
You don't need a collared ferrule. Any space will be filled in with residual epoxy and create a collar.
Shafting beads don't actually help with any of this. They are only meant to help center an already very good fit.
@@EFGMC Are shafting beads always necessary? What are the risks of not using them?
@@trentsolomon3201 Not necessary and no risk not using them. The amount that they change the fit is extremely small.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the answer and all the helpful videos.
AJ, I have a question to ask you and I didn’t know where to ask it, so I’m asking it here. How can a person determine the “true” center or sweet spot of an iron. I thought it was the center of the club face, but saw a video of Mr. Miura, the founder of Miura Golf clubs and he corrected a golfer by holding up an iron and pointed to an area closer to the heel and said that that was sweet spot and not the center of the club face? When I strike an iron after I’ve sprayed foot on it, I noticed that the best feeling strikes (sweet spot) are actually where Mr. Miura said it was. So how can a person find the sweet spot for their irons? Sorry for the long comment.
You can balance the club face on a pen and mark the location where the head naturally rests.
@@EFGMC thank you so much for the quick reply. Much appreciated. Cheers.
Do the shafts actually need the ferrules?
Purely cosmetic to act as a transition between the hosel and shaft.
@@EFGMC I think I like the clubs without the ferrules.. For me it looks cleaner
What grit is your belt?
Medium, think 120-150.
Does overall weight matter when building clubs? My swing weight progression is off by a lot. My swing weights are the following
PW 443.2g E4
9i 437.9g E0
8i 428.5g D6.5
7i 422.9g D3
6i 419.7g D1
5i 414.4g C9 (add 2g to head?)
4i 410g C6 (add 8g to head?)
3i 403.2g C2 (add 16g to head?)
Are these single length or some other non traditional length progression?
@@EFGMC standard lengths progression
@@EFGMC fyi, Grips are standard 50g
head weights are as followed
Pw 291g
9i 284g
8i 276g
7i 268g
6i 261g
5i 254g
4i 247g
3i 240g
@@Mackahroney Heads should increase in 7g increments which you basically have. I am not sure how you are getting these SW measurements unless the lengths are less than 1/2 inch progression.
@@EFGMC i will double check my measurements, thanks for replying!
Was that three or four layers of tape?
It was 5 total!
I see that you don't peel the outside of your double sided tape. Usually I take it off because it won't stick to the shaft very well , to stiff.
I have a doubled sided tape dispenser that pulls the backing off for me.
@@EFGMC that makes sense. I just change grips and that's it. I enjoy watching you club builders.
How do you get your hands on head only ?
Do you need to have a certain certification ?
You for starters need a sales account with them. Then you have to have them approve you for it.
"tour issue" shaft. Ok... What's the difference between them and regular Dynamic Gold shafts other than that being stamped on them?
The only difference is tolerance, when you purchase a set of TOUR ISSUE, the set you get are all as close as possible.
Buying a single tour issue, means nothing if trying to match another set because the shafts are based on a set.
That's a nice set of clubs, but..... Who wants swing Wright d7 on a 8 iron? Who believes that D5 is normal for a long iron? When i got my japanese bladed irons from honma, bought by a real clubmaker who already build clubs for tour winners, then all these clubs had nearly the exact swing weight (within 1/10 gramm). If you buy a set of Miura for example, all club heads are nearly exact forged so that you can build a set of with the same swingweight. The wedge have more, that's normal, but not the rest of the set. Normally you put weight out of hostel to bring the swingweight down to D3 if the clubs become longer than standard - i hoped to see exact this from you! That's the work of a top clubmaker! But what i expected to see was exactly not what you showed me us.... To be fair...
I'm a little bit disappointed
Some people are way too concerned with particular SW values. The point of SW was to attempt to make all the irons in a set feel similar, not to find some completely arbitrary SW value. I can build you a club 3 inches longer than standard with a D1 swing weight. That in no way means that club would be better or easier to hit.
@@EFGMC thanks for your opinion! But I don't agree with you. Fitting and Building a set of irons there are two main aspects to check. First, you need a shaft with the same characteristic through the hole set. In modern times people select clubheads with the weight in the sole for high trajectory from the fairway, and then they take a DG x100 for a liw trajectory to bring them down again. Every set of clubs need a constant basic. And here also the swing weight counts! It's a question of confidence and rhythm of the swing. Getting this is the same swing weight elementary! Wedges are played in a other way, with individual skills and there also a flat lie angle is better because you go more down in the knees. But all the other clubs need the same weight! Getting them is a quality aspect of the manufacturer, the Miura heads for example are all absolutely exact forged (lighter with each longer iron). Mizuno builds all clubs in D3 also. I myself was a good player and i always only take clubs with a exact swing weight. Tour professionals i know also do. I'm not able swinging a 6 iron maybe with D6 weight and i know many players with sets inch longer who struggled with such irons and never used such high weighted clubs again. But i you think it's normal having a set of irons in a range from D7 to D3, than maybe build such a set. But not for me and all the really good players i know.
All the best for you!
@@michaelscore6763 Sounds like you've got your views, I've got mine.
@@EFGMC but my view is the view of the best brands in business, the best handmade club brands. The viewing of Mizuno, Miura, honma and also Titleist...... I know winner's on a world tour bringing their clubs to a club maker four a check of the exact weight.... That's a question of quality standards, nothing else.
Does anyone really need x100?
It's the most used & sold shaft in the history of golf