Most Difficult Golf Clubs to Reshaft
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2024
- I show you how to deal with modern Ping and PXG irons when reshafting. Also find out what you should never use.
Link to shim in video
www.golfworks.com/the-golfwor...
SHIM-30
Contact me for fittings, custom builds, or repairs at
adam@elitefitgolf.com - กีฬา
Very cool. Excited to get my hands on these
Great info as always
Interesting approach. On the other hand, I have re-shafted several sets of PING irons over the years using both the PING shoulder ferrules and other shoulder-style ferrules with little difficulty. Nonetheless, I appreciate your perspective.
That's a sweet lookin' I230! Can't wait to see the unreleased blueprint S and more bladeish T version!
I had a similar experience reshafting a set of Ping G700’s. I assumed they were.355 but experienced the same sloppy fit. I took a .370 shaft and it went right in. In exploring some forums I found that Ping has gone the Maltby route and has drilled hosels to accept either parallel or taper tips. I did use the collared hosels but, like you I used brass shims. As the shims go, I trimmed the tangs shorter which allows the shaft to seat more easily but still centers the shaft.
Nice! Good, informative video.
Biggest issue of being a Ping junkie 4 life.... gotta deal with this crap. Thanks for your videos. You're building my courage to take on this project by myself. 😂
AJ looked at your video on fitting armlock grip could you fit that grip with the flat side up against the forearm? Keep up your great vids
I saw a Mizuno technician used a small piece of fishing line (small diameter) inside the hosel and that resolved any wobbling…I’ve done it since and it works very well…try it
I use the ping ferrule and shim. trim the shim length off accordingly . Works good for me
why trim the shim and use more expensive black ping ferrules when you can leave the shim intact and use either a cool looking ferrule or a more affordable black ferrule?
Seen several PXG heads fall off when the epoxy bond came loose. They didn't use the shim or anything like the Ping Ferrule.
Did this problem just start with Ping models that have a hosel weight installed (to match the toe screw weight)? Also watching the video I saw the Ping ferrule slide down the shaft on its own. Were you using the correct ferrule? Ping uses taper shafts and a taper ferrule won't slide like that. I like your videos. Always I formative.
Awesome seeing this video. I had reached the same solution through some of my own struggles. The shim works SO much better and allowed me to use much cooler ferrules (enter BB&Fco). Also, some versions of those collared ferrules don't always allow the shaft to go through so well, and you have to ream them out so much that the collar is even more worthless.
Question about Ping installs- it seems like the hosel bore is not as deep (or higher bottom bore to ground measurement). Does that have any effect on how the shaft plays to flex? Any need to slightly tip the shaft (like 1/4" or so)? Thanks again!
They are a bit shallow but not enough to make adjustments for in my opinion assuming all your irons are the same model.
Great Info, I am currently using the Ping G425 irons, which comes with Dynamic Gold 105 s300 shafts however. I would like to switch to the Ping Alta CB (AWT) graphite shaft 82g mid launch. Problem here is not being able to find these shafts in California. Are there any suggestions for an alternative shaft with mid to high launch.
Where did you get the sound proofing material on the wall?
Was wondering what your thoughts are on golf club vibration dampeners.? Do they work in the cold months when you miss hit and it numbs your fingers? Also do they change swing weight of a club?
The ones that you install yourself and are mainly foam are very light and don't change anything with balance. They do help some although not as much as switching to graphite in my opinion.
Everyone says the notch in the hosel is there to adjust lie angle. Here is what Allan Solheim, Karsten's son, said about this:
"The way the Eye2 neck section was designed freed up the head so it could vibrate, and that is actually why we put the notch in the back of the irons beginning with the i3. We tell everybody the notch is there to adjust the clubs, which it does do, but it is also there to increase backspin". Ref: "And The Putter Went PING", page 228.
Mr. Solheim was very protective of his ideas and went to great lengths to protect them from copycats.
Can you comment on the difficulty of old Ping Eye or Ping Eye 2 that doesn’t have a ferrule?
The new Axiom graphite shafts for irons are 0.370 parallel. I assume that you would measure and sand the tip accordingly to get the best fit for the shape of the ping hosel. Would the 0.370 width be enough to fit snugly at the ferrule end or would you still use a shim?
Honestly not sure as I have not installed Axioms into any .370 heads yet. Might still want a thinner shim but again need to try it first.
Do these brass shims weigh enough to change the swingweight of the finished club?
Huge fan of your channel and great topic! I think I may be able to help clarify some of this info based on my experience
From an engineering standpoint I completely disagree with your message that ping specific ferrules have any negative context in reshafting. And this is someone who has reshafted hundreds of mainly ping irons/wedges.
It’s true that collared ferrules do nothing for centering BUT those ping specific ferrules are designed to match a hosel outer diameter and factory ferrule height as close as possible w/o turning. They have tons of merit for many small jobs which are meant to replicate the factory finish of 6-8 other irons. This is - hands down - the best solution to fix ONE club which is experiencing ferrule creep from the factory.
Ping irons have a friction fit at the bottom of the hosel which centers the club via friction centering. The reason you could wiggle the shaft with the collared hosel is because you didn’t engage the friction fit which which will grab ONLY the tip of a .355 shaft.. once engaged you would be able to hold the head and shaft at address WITHOUT epoxy and it’s friction fit will still keep the head on snug. A truly snug fit - even without epoxy - is hard to remove simply by hand even. This adds to complexity when pre testing your builds for swingweight since you must actually latch every shaft in fully before cutting to length.
Ping uses a pneumatic press to physically push the shaft into this perfectly centered friction fit position. I use a thick piece of carbon steel, hold the head and bang the shaft hard in until it’s friction fit is audibly engaged. You will also see an extra but if epoxy squeeze out from the ferrule/hosel step.
Once engaged, the ferrule is PURELY cosmetic. I think clarifying this would probably be good ideal.
And FYI, the friction fit actually increases club building throughout time because you can handle the club much less worryingly because mechanically you are latched in alongside the epoxy bond.
Ping does not use this friction fit anymore. You can pull apart any modern Ping iron will the lowest amount of heat and time of any modern iron on the market. Not sure where the cut off is for when they stopped but you don't find it in the irons with the extra wide hosels.
That is an absolute travesty! But I can assure that almost every ping includes it from the last generation (i210) and before.
I500, Glide 3.0, I210 and iBlade all include friction fit but I have not reshafted an i230 or i525. If the friction fit is gone it literally just left the design with the new generation of clubs. The G line recently has relied on the friction fit because of the super short hosel bore depth.
I am getting a hunch that the i230 and other new models may be different from other models because they advertise using tip weights which do not work particularly well. If that is their modern technique they should have a much tighter fitting hosel (ie mizuno)
PXG took some of the Ping engineers so it would make sense that they would design similar products. I've bought .355 PXG ferrules that include a small centering cup that covers the tip of the shaft. It should work with Ping too. Any worries about the shoulder in the hosel that's supposed to be filled by the extra plastic of the ferrule? I feel like there would be a weak point if the epoxy doesn't completely fill that area. Coincidentally I'm planning a rebuild of PXG's for my wife with BBF ferrules so this video is very timely for me.
The epoxy will fill in the space even with minimal amount used. In my book both those Ping and PXG adapters should be avoided.
Have done about a dozen PXG irons and use the Golfworks ferrule/tip segments as you mentioned and they work very well. However, if you want to add a brass shaft tip weight then the tip piece does not fit well and I then use a shim...bingo!
I’ve never had a problem with either. With or without shim
Do you have to add weights? What if you don’t?
would you use beads also?
It was always my understanding that Ping hosels have somewhat of an interference fit, meaning the bottom of the hosel bore is ever so slightly smaller than 0.355". This requires 2 or 3 slight taps of the butt end of the shaft on a hard surface to properly seat the shaft tip into the hosel and remove this slop. This is why, at least from my experience, it's a little harder to remove the shaft out of a Ping iron/wedge head......the friction of this interference fit has to be overcome. Also, the top 1/4" or so of the hosel is countersunk (slightly larger diameter; step is visibly obvious) and this is where the collar of the ferrule inserts/seats and removes the slop in the top of the hosel. On a more general club building note, with these special collared ferrules, and any with that matter, I was taught to put a very slight amount of epoxy 360 degrees around the shaft tip, then install the ferrule (not all the way) using the club head; only push the ferrule approx. 1/2 of the way down where it will be when the shaft is fully inserted into the hosel bore. Then apply the required amount of epoxy for final club assembly and insert the shaft to final depth into the hosel, remembering to tap the butt end on a hard surface if it's a PIng iron. The initial epoxy on the shaft before installing the ferrule acts as a lubricant while is still wet/liquid to assist the ferrule sliding on the shaft, as 0.355T shafts get slight larger and makes the ferrule fit get tighter, and assists in the prevention of ferrule creep once it's cured.
That is all correct except that Ping no longer uses that bottom of hosel pinch point that required tapping to fully set.
Hey Mobile Clubmaker, I know Maltby (Golfworks) has universal hosel but that seems to fit snug for a .355 or .370. Is that system different than what Ping and PXG do? Thanks!
Yes, Maltby uses a different set up with a very small .355 recess at the bottom of the hosel to get either to fit.
I am a beginner here in the world of club building and adjusting. I am a huge Ping fan but I am curious to know why Ping does this different. Knowing Ping there is a reason, like the notch on the back of the clubs and the color coding system, they are very smart in what they do so I am curious as to know the reasoning here. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Lots of companies now use stepped hosels. It's a pain in the butt. The notch is to make changing lie angles easier. The colour coding system has been around in Ping clubs for as long as I can remember.
I’m assuming that the shafts you used were 0.370 tip shafts? I’m planning to get Nippon shafts to replace existing shafts in my i230 irons.
No, I use .355 for all the Ping reshafts. You will run into the same issues though regardless as the hosel is wider than .370
AJ, quick question: I have a Callaway 2019 Epic Flash driver, the switch g weight is too light, it’s at D1-D2, and I’d like it to be D4-D5. It has a 16 gram adjustable weight in it, and is set to the “ draw” side. My question: I need another 6 grams of weight to bring it up to the swing weight mentioned above. Can I buy a 22 gram adjustable weight and swap the 16 gram out, or is it best to add 6 grams of lead tape to the head, if the later, is it best to add the lead tape to the rear heal or more in the center? Thanks in advance for your reply. Cheers
Either one will work. The extra 6g won't matter whether its in the screw weight or with lead tape.
@@EFGMC AJ, thank you so much for the reply. One more question, there doesn’t seem to be a 22gram weight for sale, can I use two adjustable weight's in the rail of the driver? Thanks
@@patron7940 Pretty sure they can both fit.
There are 3 shim size in the link. Which size would you use for g430?
You will want one of the thicker ones depending on the shafts. I would get some of each so you have options.
Hmmm, why didn’t you prepare the tip before you epoxied the shim/head to the shaft?
?? All the tips were prepped.
AJ with regards to the tip weight , how did you select the correct weight? Does the epoxy at the tip stop the tip weight from sliding down the shaft?
Dry fit the clubs together to get swing weights then add weight as needed. The steel shaft weights all have vent holes so no pressure buildup. Graphite shafts are tricker, need to make sure you keep twisting the shaft and tapping down until the pressure is released.
@@EFGMC Are we not adding weight using the shim?
@@kennyg63 Shims weigh about a gram, not much different from weight of epoxy and we are doing it to entire set so most importantly all clubs will have the same weight.
Thanks for the video. Is it any more difficult to bend Ping wedges or irons from say black dot to blue dot (1 degree upright) compared to other brands?
Complicated question. Short answer is yes, they are often more difficult but it really depends what you are comparing them to.
I've got some ping glide 4.0 wedges that I am reshafting with dynamic gold 105's......I have the shims you mention on here but when I put them on the shaft it won't go past the shelf inside the irons. Is that whats supposed to happen? Without the shim the shaft seems pretty tight at the bottom and looser near the top with the ferrule. Not sure if the wedges are different than the irons@@EFGMC
@@Lantheus If the bottom is snug then I would not bother with the shim. The top can be centered with some mesh tape, a collared ferrule, or using the legs cut off of the shim.
As a major brand there's no excuse for this from Ping, 0.355" taper or 0.370" parallel would surely simplify the manufacturing process. This just smacks of trying to ensure that the clubs have to be returned exclusively to them for repair or alteration.
I'm a Ping user in the middle of reshafting some G425 irons with 0.355" steel so thank you for the information in the video. Can I just ask what shim size you'd recommend? 👍
I use the SHIM 30 from Golfworks which is the .370 to .400
It's quite a snug fit, but gives a solid centered hold.
Would you know the shaft tip diameter for the Cleveland CBX2 Wedge? I want to change from the stock steel shafts to graphite. Mitsubishi MMT 70R for the 48 Gap, and maybe 80R for the 54 58. Thank you.
Pretty sure it's .355
Great. Thank you.
Hi! Does this also apply to glide wedges? Specifically the 3.0 and 4.0s?
I've can't remember reshafting any Glide wedges so I am not sure if the hosel design carries over. I would guess it doesn't but can't say for sure.
I found a set of Ping eye 2 irons, do these clubs have the Ferrell setup?
Not really but I have been building numerous sets and installing ferrules and they end up looking pretty good so you can go either way.
Which grit do you reccomend to sand down ferrules? Just got new irons and want to add some personalization to them.
By hand I use 120 grit first and then smooth it out with 250. If using a sander, I would use a linen belt.
Any idea if Cobra Aerojet is using same kind of structure? My friend bought new clubs (custom fitted) this spring and has had club head fly off four times already. They were all re-glued after the second time, but after a couple of weeks (probably about 6 rounds) he found one loose head again.
I don't believe they use anything but standard .370 ferrule. Might recommend finding a new club builder.
@@EFGMC To be clear, those came from Sweden (we live in Finland). So they weren't even assembled by the local fitter, they just ordered them from Cobra (I don't know if they have their own workshop there or just a contractor, but not exactly convincing to say the least).
But thanks for the reply 👍
dont keep your clubs in a hot car for extended periods. that can cause a head to fly off
I’m assuming that you’re shimming tapered shafts? I don’t think you would need to shim parallel would you?
I haven't installed a set of parallels into any Pings in a while but as I recall they still need a shim, just a thinner one. This is why I always have a selection of shims in my drawer so whenever something feels a bit too loose, I can sure that up.
What size of brass shims did you use on i230? .350 or .370?
It's the .370 to .400
Ahh….370 to .400, never considered that size. .355 to .370 doesn’t work at all, thanks for the tip
Could you reshaft PXG irons with .370 tip shafts? Instead of brass shim + .355 shafts?
Yes you can but not all shafts are available in both 370 and 355.
Yes you can. May still need some shim, I have not built any PXG irons with .370 shafts so can't say for sure. Always good to keep some brass shims around just in case.
PXG hosels I have reshafted are .370” ID. There are (2) ferrules that GW sells for PXG…one with , 1 without an epoxy cap that fits over a .355” shaft tip. Some PXG designers came from Ping. Can also use the T shim from GW, .355/.370”. For the past 25 years I’ve repaired Pings, they have always created difficult hosel designs with special ferrules needed. They want to do the re-work themselves.
Correction…a plastic ferrule material plastic cap that fits over the tip of a .355 shaft tip.
Fine as long as you can actually fit a shim in there. Some shafts fit way to snug to do so.
That's great. If the shaft is snug in the hosel then you don't need a shim.
Is a shim a shim or are they .355 or .370 specific?
They come in different sizes.
I AM TRYING TO RESHAFT PGX GEN 2 IRONS FRIST ARE THEY MADE FOR .370 SHAFTS ?????
Any shaft you use with them will require some shimming.
what size shim did you go with?
.370-.400, I put the link in description. It's the SHIM-30 on Golfworks.
Are these Ping i230s hard to bend in terms of their loft and lie?
Ping always recommends sending their clubs back to their facilities to have lofts and lies adjusted because of the unique hosel cut out on the club head. It doesn’t cost much more than having your local pro shop or local golf store do it, it just takes about a week of turnaround time. Having Ping clubs bent by anyone other than Ping voids their warranty as well. That being said I haven’t even bent i230s, but I have done some Ping S56 irons (customer didn’t want to wait and was ok that Ping wouldn’t cover them) and they don’t bend easy like other forged clubs. You have to be delicate as to not mess up that notch in the hosel but at the same time you need to use more force than a normal forged iron.
You can bend them without issue assuming this isn't your first attempt at bending. I've bent most every Ping model without issues.
the weight Gunna be sliding bro
What size brass shim
On Golf Works website it is the taper shim.
There is nothing wrong with the Ping collared ferrules. Golfworks sells a nice version that's only $1, and they have large holes through the collar, so glue will hold them in place, so they don't creep. With Ping's, due to their short insertion depth, it's critical to abrade the hosel ID with fresh sandpaper, after cleaning out the old adhesive. Omitting this step is not good. Also, after abrading, cleaning the hosel and shaft with MEK or Acetone is required. Regarding using a shim, I don't see anything wrong with that. It helps keep the shaft centered a little better. They are not necessary, though, as evidenced by the tens of thousands of Ping irons sold every month.
Based on the number of creeping ferrules I have seen, I would disagree.
What sucks just as bad as PXG has the same exact same set up.
Ferrule creep is Merrule Streep's cousin. I win
Just reshafted a set of i230s with the recommended ferrule from golfsmith and had absolutely no issue. Watched this video and a bunch of PING factory tours, plus tour truck videos, and they don't use shims. I'm not knocking the validity of this info presented here, which i think is valid, but every builder will have their own way to complete a project.
You really need to look at it from an engineers point of view , it has to do with dealing with the shear point between the shaft & hosel during the strike of the ball , & the forces applied during this , the ferrules are meant to cushion this , take the strain off the shaft so it doesn't break
Don't buy that. No other brand has any issues with shaft tips breaking from this. They all have beveled edges and that works without issue.
From an engineering point of view it makes perfect sense , I have broken shafts at the hosel@@EFGMC
Best tip, don't buy Ping irons. You can't adjust lie and loft, obviously reshafting is a minor pain, and the biggest drawback.... Selling them(lie angle must match the new buyer or like me...I have no idea what dot color really works for me, so I buy something else I know can be adjusted without the worry of breaking them).
This just isn’t the case.
@@hughmunkulus7598 what did I say that wasn't correct(with their cast irons). If you are correct I'll simply say... Thanks for informing me.
You absolutely can adjust the lie angle. The heel cut out allows you to do so. There hasn’t been a PING iron manufactured in the last 5+ years I cant bend. And if you’re super worried about having them adjusted in a loft and lie machine, you can send them to PING and have them adjusted to whatever you want for a small fee. The reshafting process also isn’t nearly as cumbersome as the video would make it seem. Just saying that it’s ridiculous to avoid PING irons entirely because of 2 factors that are at worst a mild inconvenience.
@@hughmunkulus7598 thank you. In the past club makers would say.. I'm not adjusting those because they'll break. I guess the heel cut out fixed that.
Thanks for the info.
See, expounding on your replies helps.
@@billmalec Ping is the only manufacturer I recommend sending irons in for loft/lie adjustments. They turn them around pretty quickly. They use a heavy mallet for lie adjustment and a very interesting looking bending bar for loft. Watch one of their assembly videos. Check this one at 8:25 th-cam.com/video/svMXvDLmeAQ/w-d-xo.html
I have a set of Ping i500 club heads that are built with .370 parallel tip graphite shafts. The shafts and stepped ferrules fit perfectly in those club heads with no slop at all. I have not tried doing a set with steel shafts but maybe there is a difference. Or I just got lucky?
Graphite shafts will usually be a little wider diameter vs steel because of the extra paint layers. Not a surprise that a .370 graphite would end up with a nice fit.