I did this for many years starting in the late 80's, when spiral wrapping grip tape was the thing. Never bothered to swing weight anything back then. It was a fun hobby. I did it it off and on for many years for friends. I'm finally getting serious about it now, in my late 60's, and it it is so gratifying. Haven't yet figured out how to make it profitable, but I'm having fun doing it. Aside from your hitting studio, I think I have all your tools from Golfworks.
@@virginriverchiangrai2022 I bought these heads raw so I didn't do it. Requires some strong chemicals or a sand blasting station which wouldn't work in my shop setup.
This is somewhat like how I fit my clubs since 2008! Two steps are required. The center point of trial assembled club is first marked and that point on the shaft is to be placed on the middle of the weighing scale platform. I have noticed that the weight can vary by 3 grams if it is off center. I live in India which is one of the most backward nations in terms of golf and equipment!
Great video. I am going to swap TT DG Lite taper shafts into my KZG .370 heads to get more length. I like the feel of taper shafts better than parallel also. The tips I got from you are that : I can use beads instead of shims You used weight from a wood and ferules from .370 shaft. Plus I don't need a swingweight scale. Thats a lot of good inside information that will save me trouble. Thanks!
You can use beads, but they are no substitute for either brass shims or mesh tape. If you have a taper tip shaft and a .370 hosel, just go buy the taper to parallel brass shims. Will makes things much easier for you.
@@EFGMC Thank you!!! I know it takes time to create and edit content:) I have built my own and I purchased a swing weight scale. Sold it because how sets do you build for yourself!!! Nice to have an alternative.
Hi AJ, a great video. I noticed that when you dry-fit the shafts to the club heads they fit pretty easily. Is this way they should fit or should it be quite a tight fit? I am reconditioning some older clubs at the moment. I struggled to remove the shafts when taking them out. Now that I have them out I notice that when I dry fit them they do not go into the hosel easily. Should I sand the shafts a bit more, drill the hosels a fraction, or both?
Hi AJ, love your videos :). I'm just planning to build my own clubs during the year. Therefore I have a question because of swing weight, how do I know the correct swing weight for my clubs? Cheers, Markus
I will check them, and then take them to the range to sharpie line check the lies and see how the flight looks for lofts. Might make that the next video!
@@EFGMC I try to CHECK my lie angles with Photoshop (there is a line & angle tool). I lay my club on to a table, head down and take a picture. I'm not sure how accurate this is...
I will be trying to build a set or irons and woods by myself. I only golf a dozen times a year and I am not good. I use a set of clubs from a 2nd hand store/ goodwill for the past 20 years. My father passed away and he loved golf. He was the same size as I am. I inherited his golf clubs which were much better than mine. BUT...he was LH and I am RH so no go. But what I wanted to do for sentimental reasons was to by new iron heads and deconstruct his clubs and use the graphite shafts he had on my new heads. I purchased Callaway Big Bertha B21s. Can this be done and is there anything different I need to do from your videos with these B21s? Any advice would be much appreciated...Thank you
This is perfect gotta try this, stops me trying to convince the wife taking clubs to an expensive club fitter, after cutting the shafts is there an easy way to test frequency? Just looks like they put a light on the shaft and bounce the shaft.
What ferrules do you use that slide on so easily? I usually have to pound mine on and it is the hardest part of the build. Thanks and great video as usual.
I cheated and used .370 ferrules on the .355 shafts. It doesn't really matter since where the ferrule sits the diameter is basically the same. 355 ferrules are alway a pain to get on so I often opt for .370 on taper shafts. The small amount of epoxy holds them so I haven't seen any higher rate of ferrule creep. If your ferrules are an issue getting stuck, soak them in hot water before installing.
Depends if the shaft had been previously tipped for the driver and how much you need to cut to get to undamaged shaft. If it gets over 2 inches, you might not want to do it.
Greetings, as I understand it you put the axis logo down, is this for some reason or the logo can be put up, thanks I continue learning from your videos
Depends on the job. In general I will use either the 24h or the 90 minute one for most sets of clubs and singles. I don't like to use quick set unless it's a time crunch or a putter. Otherwise I like the higher lap sheer I get with longer set epoxies.
Great video. Question about dialing in the swing weight. Is there somewhere to get small quantities of the weight inserts for the tip? Only thing I’ve seen online is a kit that is over $100 and far exceeds what you’d need for one build.
I have a set of Dunlop Black TI cavity back irons that I love , am I wasting my tjme replacing the steel shafts for Senior flex graphic shafts in hopes to gain a few more yards not that i am older ?
I guess it depends how many yards you are hoping to regain. Maybe you get 5 yards conservatively. Maybe 10?? Probably not more than that unless you make the shafts longer. New irons with stronger lofts will go further.
I did this reshaft video last year. I am using power tools (drill, shaft cutter) and swing weight scale however you can take the same process and just substitute the hand tools for the power tools and the online SW calculator for the scale. th-cam.com/video/htouThdUbBY/w-d-xo.html
Yes, the sand paper won't hurt the metal if the finish is chrome, raw, or brushed chrome. If it's painted then you want to cover the hosel end with some masking tape or be very careful when sanding.
Wanted to make the heads a little heavier for the feel. These heads had been stripped of all the chrome so the raw weights were lighter than they would otherwise be.
Will depend on 1, how you stagger your lengths on the wedges, and 2, how you want the SW to progress. That said, you will in most cases want less than 7g between them because most people drop to 1/4 inch intervals between the wedges.
@@EFGMC In this scenario my PW and GW are exactly 295g. My SW is 307g and my LW is 309g and I don't know what to do about the lengths for these 4 clubs. I play +.5"
What are your thoughts on this…I bought a set of AMT White S300 shafts for a great price…but, they are 4-PW…My irons are 6-GW…will there be a big difference if I just start at the 5 iron shaft for the 6 iron all the way down to using the PW shaft for the GW? I’m guessing because they are gapped consistently and I’ll be cutting them all about the same amount off it shouldn’t be a big deal…they must might be slightly heavier than they would have been…thoughts?
If it cures to a high enough lap shear strength (2500-4000psi) it should work. That said golf epoxy often has microscopic rubber like spheres in it to help soften the impact forces. Will it work short term, pretty sure it will. Will it hold up longer term, can't say.
No. Graphite you can cut by hand but you need a hacksaw with a high tooth count. I think mine is 32 tip (teeth per inch), but just get the highest you can find. Wrap the area with masking tape and then just cut with smooth gentle pressure to avail splintering. Can also use a Dremel with a cutting wheel if you have one. A pipe cutter will crush the fibers so never use that method.
can you explain how you made your measurement ruler with the gate hinge. Is it attached at the 0" mark? Is it at a particular angle (60 degrees) or do you just make it lie flush on the bottom of the club? Thank you.
The strap hinge is epoxied to the bottom of the 48 ruler so that the hinge can't move past 90 degrees because the edge of the ruler stops it. You could set it at 60 if you have a protractor or just set the angle to sit centered against the sole. Only time 60 degrees matters is if you are building a driver close to the max length and don't want to go over into non conforming.
These heads were quite light because they have been chrome stripped, which takes a decent amount of weight out of them. They needed some extra weight added back in for me to feel where the head was. 4g is going to equal 2 swing weight points when you are doing the math. The epoxy used and the ferrule usually add about 2g, which you can add into the equation when you are dry fitting for SW.
Apologies if this is a stupid question. How do you determine the weight that you add before installing the shaft? So that there is a uniform increase in the mass of heads from long to short irons, or to shift the CG of each specific golf club?
If you have a 1/2 inch step down pattern in the set, then you will want 7g difference between each head. If you are concerned with hitting specific swing weight numbers and don't have a SW scale, you can use an online calculator. Did a video on them. th-cam.com/video/sJALUBr51jI/w-d-xo.html
I just did this one. The online ones are in the description section but I also use an app SW calculator which works the same way. th-cam.com/video/vnFEaTgdzNM/w-d-xo.html
I have a question. Are all club hosels from different manufacturers the same. I have some Taylormade P790 clubs with graphite shafts which I want to switch to steel.
There are two sizes for iron shafts and hosels. .355 taper and .370 parallel. Ideally you want to get the matching shaft diameter for the hosel to make your life easier. Some brands like Ping and PXG do some crazy stuff with their hosels, (I think just to screw with club makers!) but Taylor Made is very straight forward. 790s are .355 tips assuming they haven't been modified by someone aftermarket.
Hey I had a question. I followed everything you said. Made a couple small aesthetic mistakes but all in all turned out ok. Of course after the fact I noticed the shaft manufacture reccomended tip cutting depending on club head. I did not do this I just cut the butt ends to length. Is this bad news or will it be fine? Thanks
@@leroyjenkins2620 .370 shafts are usually trimmed from the tip to achieve the correct flex, then butt trimmed to length. Will that matter for you? Will need to go try them out and see how they perform.
@@leroyjenkins2620 The long irons will be close, the shorter ones will get softer as you go. I would still try them first and see how they play though.
Quick question for you. If I want to change shafts in the irons that I currently have, will that change the swing weight significantly? I currently use the ping I200's and have the dynamic gold s300 which are 120 grams but want to switch to the nippon pro modus 105. They would be the same length as my current shaft, just a different weight.
General rule is 9g of shaft weight will equal 1 SWP. Different shafts however have different balance points so this rule can move around a bit. But in your case with those 2 shafts, I'd would guess maybe 1 point movement assuming same length, grip etc.
Depends on the shafts you are using. I was using constant weight shafts here so the clubs do increase in static weight as they get shorter. If you are using .370 parallel blanks, the shorter you cut them, the lighter the shaft gets. This offsets some of that head weight change. If you are playing True Temper AMT shafts for example, the shafts get lighter as they get longer, so in this case you would see a more significant change in static weight as you move through the set.
Thanks! That probably explains part of what I'm seeing in my irons. The total weight increments just seem odd. 4-5 is 9g, 5-6 is 2g then 6-9 goes back to 9g increments. They are True Temper .370 shafts. 6-9 are a solid D4 4 is D5. 5-is D3.5 and 6 is D-4.5 (all on leader board)
@@billchuplis9460 True Temper Dynamic Gold for example have a QC tolerance of + - 2 grams. Grips can also have a 1-2g variation. That combined with inconsistent head weights and inconsistent amounts of epoxy used can all add up to those sorts of weight progressions.
Greetings -- I will watch the video soon but got an important question. I managed to get an adapter of a driver shaft without destroying the graphite tip and want to mount a callaway adapter now. However, the fitter here that that I need to get the inner of the shaft absolutely clean due to some vacuum that could otherwise pop off the adapter. However, when I removed the former adapter, the tip of the shaft was completely covered and stuffed with epoxy (and mounted by exactly that fitter) which then would have had the same "danger" imho. I guess it will be stuffed with epoxy anyway when mounting a new adapter, so do I really need to get it clean and probably ruin the graphite in that process (I do not have a graphite shat cleanr)? Thanx a lot for helping!
The best time to clean and prep the shaft is right after extraction since the epoxy will still be soft. You may just be able to use a utility knife, pointing the blade towards you and scraping away from you so that you don't cut the graphite, just scrape off the epoxy. You will also need to drill out the epoxy from inside the shaft. Just a small drill bit to create a vent hole is all you need. Without a vent, pressure will build up when re installing the shaft and push it out of the hosel as it dries. You can also heat the shaft gently with a heat gun or extremely carefully with a torch to soften the left over epoxy if the utility knife scraping doesn't work as well with cooled epoxy.
@@EFGMC Thx a lot for your help! One more question: Can I reheat the grahpite shaft tip shortly to make the epoxy softer? I have a hot air gun with about 350 degree celsius, so no open flame... And: I can now blow through the shaft, that should suffice, right? And it is no problem if, when I epoxy the new adapter onto the shaft, the tip gets "covered/filled" again?
@@isleofdeath Sorry, that other question slipped through my youtube alert. Yes, you can use a heat gun to warm up the epoxy again. Only need to get it to around 250F (120C) to be soft enough to remove. If you can blow through or see light through, you are good. The new epoxy will fill that space, it supposed to. You just need it to give the air somewhere to escape when you put it together.
very, I calculated clubs from driver to wedges with the formula vs a actual swing weight scale, the difference is less then 1 point of SW. Which I think is due to the inaccuracy when measuring the balance point, you should be no more then 1/16 inch off.
Everything was between D1 and D2 except the PW which was slightly heavier based off the decided length. The scale and calculator both worked out those same numbers.
MOI is an option but would never say it's best or even better. Might work for you, might not. I built a MOI set and was not impressed with the results.
No. Definitely don't use on graphite. It will crush the fibers and ruin the shaft. Best hand tool for graphite is a simple hacksaw with a high tooth count blade (mine is 32 TPI I believe). You can also use a rotary tool like a Dremel. Hacksaw just requires wrapping the cutting area with a piece of masking tape to prevent splintering, then just smooth gentle sawing motion.
Length and head weight are the two specs that jump SW faster than anything else. I would double check both those. If you are building over length, often good to find B heads that are lighter specifically to match to longer build lengths.
Sorry, I had more on it but cut it when I was trying to stay around 15 minutes. Once I measured the 7 iron head and saw it was around D0-D1, I added 4g to get the weight up 2 SWPs. At that point, I used that new head weight (what it was originally plus the 4g) and used that as the base to measure the rest. Then I just added weight (didn't need to remove any weight since they were striped raw heads) so that each club head was 7g heavier than the one before it moving into the 8,9,P and moving 7g lighter per club into the 6,5,4.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
I did this for many years starting in the late 80's, when spiral wrapping grip tape was the thing. Never bothered to swing weight anything back then. It was a fun hobby. I did it it off and on for many years for friends. I'm finally getting serious about it now, in my late 60's, and it it is so gratifying. Haven't yet figured out how to make it profitable, but I'm having fun doing it. Aside from your hitting studio, I think I have all your tools from Golfworks.
Great video on swingweighting!! Been building my own for the last 12 years for myself, family and friends. Saved a ton of $$$$$ for more rounds!!!
Built my first wedge today using his instruction. Way easier than I thought. Thank you
l am going to try my hands on building my own set and this really helps because l am using the online swing weight calc. Thank you.
I’m so glad that I stumbled upon your Chanel, it’s the best! Thanks from a very novice club builder!
Welcome. Thanks for joining our little community.
@@EFGMC great info , I used callaway x force the same club like you but it is polish , pls how do you make raw ?
@@virginriverchiangrai2022 I bought these heads raw so I didn't do it. Requires some strong chemicals or a sand blasting station which wouldn't work in my shop setup.
This was so easy! Thank you!!!
This is somewhat like how I fit my clubs since 2008! Two steps are required. The center point of trial assembled club is first marked and that point on the shaft is to be placed on the middle of the weighing scale platform. I have noticed that the weight can vary by 3 grams if it is off center. I live in India which is one of the most backward nations in terms of golf and equipment!
Good video , well could you please how to make clubs look raw like this ? I got the same model and try to make it.
Great video.
I am going to swap TT DG Lite taper shafts into my KZG .370 heads to get more length. I like the feel of taper shafts better than parallel also.
The tips I got from you are that : I can use beads instead of shims
You used weight from a wood and ferules from .370 shaft.
Plus I don't need a swingweight scale.
Thats a lot of good inside information that will save me trouble.
Thanks!
You can use beads, but they are no substitute for either brass shims or mesh tape. If you have a taper tip shaft and a .370 hosel, just go buy the taper to parallel brass shims. Will makes things much easier for you.
Great video!!! Getting around the swing weight scale? "AWESOME" !!!!
Thanks. About to film one for graphite shafts for Friday drop as I keep getting questions on that.
@@EFGMC Thank you!!! I know it takes time to create and edit content:) I have built my own and I purchased a swing weight scale. Sold it because how sets do you build for yourself!!! Nice to have an alternative.
New SUB BTW:)
Super helpful! Gonna do my first build soon. Anything special about positioning the hinge on the ruler to make the measuring device?
Interesting video, thanks as always for the great content!
Hi AJ, a great video. I noticed that when you dry-fit the shafts to the club heads they fit pretty easily. Is this way they should fit or should it be quite a tight fit? I am reconditioning some older clubs at the moment. I struggled to remove the shafts when taking them out. Now that I have them out I notice that when I dry fit them they do not go into the hosel easily. Should I sand the shafts a bit more, drill the hosels a fraction, or both?
Cut the sandpaper lengthwise - that makes things go much faster
Hi AJ,
love your videos :). I'm just planning to build my own clubs during the year. Therefore I have a question because of swing weight, how do I know the correct swing weight for my clubs?
Cheers, Markus
The point of swing weight is really about making sure all your irons have a similar feel to them. Less about hitting a certain number.
That was very nice informational video. !!!
Wish you posted this before I bought a swing weight scale! 😂
interesting stuff! thanks for posting.
Great, thank you for the video! Do clubs need a lie and loft check after this?
I will check them, and then take them to the range to sharpie line check the lies and see how the flight looks for lofts. Might make that the next video!
@@EFGMC is there a way to change lie angels without special tools?
@@fairwayfreunde Not a lot of great options for it. I have a video idea on this topic but haven't gotten around to trying it yet.
@@EFGMC I try to CHECK my lie angles with Photoshop (there is a line & angle tool). I lay my club on to a table, head down and take a picture. I'm not sure how accurate this is...
@@fairwayfreunde Only real way to know would be to take them somewhere and see how your measurements compare.
I will be trying to build a set or irons and woods by myself. I only golf a dozen times a year and I am not good. I use a set of clubs from a 2nd hand store/ goodwill for the past 20 years. My father passed away and he loved golf. He was the same size as I am. I inherited his golf clubs which were much better than mine. BUT...he was LH and I am RH so no go. But what I wanted to do for sentimental reasons was to by new iron heads and deconstruct his clubs and use the graphite shafts he had on my new heads. I purchased Callaway Big Bertha B21s. Can this be done and is there anything different I need to do from your videos with these B21s? Any advice would be much appreciated...Thank you
This is perfect gotta try this, stops me trying to convince the wife taking clubs to an expensive club fitter, after cutting the shafts is there an easy way to test frequency? Just looks like they put a light on the shaft and bounce the shaft.
You need a meter to be able to count the oscillations if you are wanting frequency.
Did I miss something when I comes to your 4gr tip weight addition? When you weighed it was that 4gr in the club?
What ferrules do you use that slide on so easily? I usually have to pound mine on and it is the hardest part of the build. Thanks and great video as usual.
I cheated and used .370 ferrules on the .355 shafts. It doesn't really matter since where the ferrule sits the diameter is basically the same. 355 ferrules are alway a pain to get on so I often opt for .370 on taper shafts. The small amount of epoxy holds them so I haven't seen any higher rate of ferrule creep.
If your ferrules are an issue getting stuck, soak them in hot water before installing.
Curious about tip cutting. If I have a driver that broke off right at the neck, can I trim that broken shaft and use it for, say a 3 or 5 wood?
Depends if the shaft had been previously tipped for the driver and how much you need to cut to get to undamaged shaft. If it gets over 2 inches, you might not want to do it.
Greetings, as I understand it you put the axis logo down, is this for some reason or the logo can be put up, thanks I continue learning from your videos
Logo up or down is purely cosmetic and won't change any playing characteristics.
Great videos. Are you also on any other media platform???
Appreciate you teaching me/us how to put clubs together. I was wondering if you always use the 24 hour epoxy always ? and if so why ? thanks
Depends on the job. In general I will use either the 24h or the 90 minute one for most sets of clubs and singles. I don't like to use quick set unless it's a time crunch or a putter. Otherwise I like the higher lap sheer I get with longer set epoxies.
Great Tutorial. Really helpful.
Glad it helped!
Great video. Question about dialing in the swing weight. Is there somewhere to get small quantities of the weight inserts for the tip? Only thing I’ve seen online is a kit that is over $100 and far exceeds what you’d need for one build.
Golfworks, Mitchell Golf, Billy Bobs Golf.
I have a set of Dunlop Black TI cavity back irons that I love , am I wasting my tjme replacing the steel shafts for Senior flex graphic shafts in hopes to gain a few more yards not that i am older ?
I guess it depends how many yards you are hoping to regain. Maybe you get 5 yards conservatively. Maybe 10?? Probably not more than that unless you make the shafts longer. New irons with stronger lofts will go further.
This video is amazing - can you do one for changing clubs shafts too? Or one for changing putter or club loft on a cheap?
I did this reshaft video last year. I am using power tools (drill, shaft cutter) and swing weight scale however you can take the same process and just substitute the hand tools for the power tools and the online SW calculator for the scale.
th-cam.com/video/htouThdUbBY/w-d-xo.html
When you’re turning down the ferrules are you sanding the ferrule only?
Yes, the sand paper won't hurt the metal if the finish is chrome, raw, or brushed chrome. If it's painted then you want to cover the hosel end with some masking tape or be very careful when sanding.
Great Video…. Thanks for sharing..!
Why did you add a 4 gram weight..? Cheers 🍻
Wanted to make the heads a little heavier for the feel. These heads had been stripped of all the chrome so the raw weights were lighter than they would otherwise be.
Did they end up being around a D2..?
@@stacks4943 Think they ended up D1.
Do you want a 7 gram progression through your GW, PW, SW, LW? Or would you want your GW and PW to match while your SW and LW match?
Will depend on 1, how you stagger your lengths on the wedges, and 2, how you want the SW to progress.
That said, you will in most cases want less than 7g between them because most people drop to 1/4 inch intervals between the wedges.
@@EFGMC In this scenario my PW and GW are exactly 295g. My SW is 307g and my LW is 309g and I don't know what to do about the lengths for these 4 clubs. I play +.5"
What are your thoughts on this…I bought a set of AMT White S300 shafts for a great price…but, they are 4-PW…My irons are 6-GW…will there be a big difference if I just start at the 5 iron shaft for the 6 iron all the way down to using the PW shaft for the GW? I’m guessing because they are gapped consistently and I’ll be cutting them all about the same amount off it shouldn’t be a big deal…they must might be slightly heavier than they would have been…thoughts?
They will be slightly lighter and more flexible. Probably not enough though that most people could tell a difference.
Another great video! Thank you.
Thanks Jeff!
Honest question from someone who hasnt replaced or installed a shaft. Is JB weld an acceptable epoxy for golf clubs?
If it cures to a high enough lap shear strength (2500-4000psi) it should work. That said golf epoxy often has microscopic rubber like spheres in it to help soften the impact forces.
Will it work short term, pretty sure it will. Will it hold up longer term, can't say.
@@EFGMC Thank you, sir!
Great video! Thank you
Excellent vid.
One trick I seen for mixing epoxy is using scale to make sure you get equal amounts of each. not so much for this dual type but for others is great
Great video can you cut graphite shafts the same way?
No. Graphite you can cut by hand but you need a hacksaw with a high tooth count. I think mine is 32 tip (teeth per inch), but just get the highest you can find. Wrap the area with masking tape and then just cut with smooth gentle pressure to avail splintering. Can also use a Dremel with a cutting wheel if you have one.
A pipe cutter will crush the fibers so never use that method.
@@EFGMC thank you for the information.
can you explain how you made your measurement ruler with the gate hinge. Is it attached at the 0" mark? Is it at a particular angle (60 degrees) or do you just make it lie flush on the bottom of the club? Thank you.
The strap hinge is epoxied to the bottom of the 48 ruler so that the hinge can't move past 90 degrees because the edge of the ruler stops it. You could set it at 60 if you have a protractor or just set the angle to sit centered against the sole. Only time 60 degrees matters is if you are building a driver close to the max length and don't want to go over into non conforming.
Why did you add the 4-gram weight? Do the epoxy and the 4-gram weight need to be figured into the swing weight calculation?
These heads were quite light because they have been chrome stripped, which takes a decent amount of weight out of them. They needed some extra weight added back in for me to feel where the head was. 4g is going to equal 2 swing weight points when you are doing the math.
The epoxy used and the ferrule usually add about 2g, which you can add into the equation when you are dry fitting for SW.
Apologies if this is a stupid question. How do you determine the weight that you add before installing the shaft? So that there is a uniform increase in the mass of heads from long to short irons, or to shift the CG of each specific golf club?
If you have a 1/2 inch step down pattern in the set, then you will want 7g difference between each head. If you are concerned with hitting specific swing weight numbers and don't have a SW scale, you can use an online calculator. Did a video on them.
th-cam.com/video/sJALUBr51jI/w-d-xo.html
@@EFGMC Thanks for the extended answer!
I can't find the swing weight calculator video, can you send the link please?
I just did this one. The online ones are in the description section but I also use an app SW calculator which works the same way.
th-cam.com/video/vnFEaTgdzNM/w-d-xo.html
I have a question. Are all club hosels from different manufacturers the same. I have some Taylormade P790 clubs with graphite shafts which I want to switch to steel.
There are two sizes for iron shafts and hosels. .355 taper and .370 parallel. Ideally you want to get the matching shaft diameter for the hosel to make your life easier. Some brands like Ping and PXG do some crazy stuff with their hosels, (I think just to screw with club makers!) but Taylor Made is very straight forward. 790s are .355 tips assuming they haven't been modified by someone aftermarket.
Where do you buy club components like heads and shafts? It seems that GolfWorks only has Maltby brand heads.
Golfworks, eBay, online marketplaces. Buying OEM heads is a little harder but very doable with a bit of searching. I use the same places for shafts.
Hey I had a question. I followed everything you said. Made a couple small aesthetic mistakes but all in all turned out ok. Of course after the fact I noticed the shaft manufacture reccomended tip cutting depending on club head. I did not do this I just cut the butt ends to length. Is this bad news or will it be fine? Thanks
You were using .370 tip shafts?
@@EFGMC yes I did
@@leroyjenkins2620 .370 shafts are usually trimmed from the tip to achieve the correct flex, then butt trimmed to length.
Will that matter for you? Will need to go try them out and see how they perform.
Yeah that’s the step I overlooked unfortunately. So an r/s shaft will be lower than R I guess with no tip trim?
@@leroyjenkins2620 The long irons will be close, the shorter ones will get softer as you go. I would still try them first and see how they play though.
Quick question for you. If I want to change shafts in the irons that I currently have, will that change the swing weight significantly? I currently use the ping I200's and have the dynamic gold s300 which are 120 grams but want to switch to the nippon pro modus 105. They would be the same length as my current shaft, just a different weight.
General rule is 9g of shaft weight will equal 1 SWP. Different shafts however have different balance points so this rule can move around a bit.
But in your case with those 2 shafts, I'd would guess maybe 1 point movement assuming same length, grip etc.
Thank you very much!
Does the pipe cutter work on graphite shaft?
No. You want to use a hack saw, or rotary tool with a metal cutting blade for graphite. Make sure area is well ventilated. Graphite fibers are bad.
Do the 7g increments also appear in the total weights or only in the club head weights?
Depends on the shafts you are using. I was using constant weight shafts here so the clubs do increase in static weight as they get shorter. If you are using .370 parallel blanks, the shorter you cut them, the lighter the shaft gets. This offsets some of that head weight change. If you are playing True Temper AMT shafts for example, the shafts get lighter as they get longer, so in this case you would see a more significant change in static weight as you move through the set.
Thanks! That probably explains part of what I'm seeing in my irons. The total weight increments just seem odd. 4-5 is 9g, 5-6 is 2g then 6-9 goes back to 9g increments. They are True Temper .370 shafts. 6-9 are a solid D4
4 is D5. 5-is D3.5 and 6 is D-4.5 (all on leader board)
@@billchuplis9460 True Temper Dynamic Gold for example have a QC tolerance of + - 2 grams. Grips can also have a 1-2g variation. That combined with inconsistent head weights and inconsistent amounts of epoxy used can all add up to those sorts of weight progressions.
Yes!!Time to sub!😎👍
Thanks for the support!
Greetings -- I will watch the video soon but got an important question. I managed to get an adapter of a driver shaft without destroying the graphite tip and want to mount a callaway adapter now. However, the fitter here that that I need to get the inner of the shaft absolutely clean due to some vacuum that could otherwise pop off the adapter. However, when I removed the former adapter, the tip of the shaft was completely covered and stuffed with epoxy (and mounted by exactly that fitter) which then would have had the same "danger" imho. I guess it will be stuffed with epoxy anyway when mounting a new adapter, so do I really need to get it clean and probably ruin the graphite in that process (I do not have a graphite shat cleanr)? Thanx a lot for helping!
The best time to clean and prep the shaft is right after extraction since the epoxy will still be soft. You may just be able to use a utility knife, pointing the blade towards you and scraping away from you so that you don't cut the graphite, just scrape off the epoxy. You will also need to drill out the epoxy from inside the shaft. Just a small drill bit to create a vent hole is all you need. Without a vent, pressure will build up when re installing the shaft and push it out of the hosel as it dries.
You can also heat the shaft gently with a heat gun or extremely carefully with a torch to soften the left over epoxy if the utility knife scraping doesn't work as well with cooled epoxy.
@@EFGMC Thx a lot for your help! One more question: Can I reheat the grahpite shaft tip shortly to make the epoxy softer? I have a hot air gun with about 350 degree celsius, so no open flame... And: I can now blow through the shaft, that should suffice, right? And it is no problem if, when I epoxy the new adapter onto the shaft, the tip gets "covered/filled" again?
@@EFGMC Any hints on my last follow up question? And sorry for bothering :-)
@@isleofdeath Sorry, that other question slipped through my youtube alert. Yes, you can use a heat gun to warm up the epoxy again. Only need to get it to around 250F (120C) to be soft enough to remove.
If you can blow through or see light through, you are good. The new epoxy will fill that space, it supposed to. You just need it to give the air somewhere to escape when you put it together.
Nice video...
Thanks for watching.
How did you strip the finish off the irons?
Acquired them in this condition so not sure.
did you tip-trim them before the video? I missed that step
No they are taper tip, so butt trim only.
Of course, thanks.
@@EFGMC I've only used parallel tip shafts. Are taper shafts used because of the head, or are there some other criteria? Thanks
@@dcheever07 They match the head is why I used them.
@@EFGMC Ok, great. I really like your channel, 3 thumbs up, if I had them.
Exelent video!!! Help me a lott realyy
Thanks for watching!
How accurate was the swing weight on a scale?
very, I calculated clubs from driver to wedges with the formula vs a actual swing weight scale, the difference is less then 1 point of SW. Which I think is due to the inaccuracy when measuring the balance point, you should be no more then 1/16 inch off.
Everything was between D1 and D2 except the PW which was slightly heavier based off the decided length. The scale and calculator both worked out those same numbers.
I think I’ll leave this to the pros 😎
You can do this. Just start out with a junker club in case of any issues.
why the 4 gram weight?
best way to match irons peromance thorugh the set is not by swingweight but by MOI
MOI is an option but would never say it's best or even better. Might work for you, might not. I built a MOI set and was not impressed with the results.
@@EFGMC Your absolutely right, your milleage may vary. I'd should had added best for medium - high hdcpers ;-p
You don't need to grip tape and all that crap. Just put masking tape on it the length of the grip use your compressor and blow the grip on.
does the pipe cutter work on graphite shafts? If not what is the best option?
No. Definitely don't use on graphite. It will crush the fibers and ruin the shaft. Best hand tool for graphite is a simple hacksaw with a high tooth count blade (mine is 32 TPI I believe). You can also use a rotary tool like a Dremel.
Hacksaw just requires wrapping the cutting area with a piece of masking tape to prevent splintering, then just smooth gentle sawing motion.
@@EFGMC Thank You!
I did that and I know my swing weight is d2 But with those measurements it can put at d8. Witch I know is wrong
Length and head weight are the two specs that jump SW faster than anything else. I would double check both those. If you are building over length, often good to find B heads that are lighter specifically to match to longer build lengths.
👍
Love the name!
A little vinegar or navel jelly on the club heads would clean up the rust and dirt. Nice build.
We worked hard to get these heads looking like that, not wanting to remove it. Raw finish is still my personal favorite look on an iron.
@@EFGMC it’s like a Fender reissue where they painstakingly age the guitar to look period worthy, and charge a boat load for that aging.
You didn’t explain the swing weight at all
Sorry, I had more on it but cut it when I was trying to stay around 15 minutes. Once I measured the 7 iron head and saw it was around D0-D1, I added 4g to get the weight up 2 SWPs. At that point, I used that new head weight (what it was originally plus the 4g) and used that as the base to measure the rest. Then I just added weight (didn't need to remove any weight since they were striped raw heads) so that each club head was 7g heavier than the one before it moving into the 8,9,P and moving 7g lighter per club into the 6,5,4.
PLEASE please please wear rubber gloves when handling grip solvent! That stuff is toxic!