Clearly a man with too much time on his hands and he’s still left with an old set of clubs. They will look tatty within a couple of winter rounds. He need to get out more.
Love mizuno, but they are a mess after a few seasons... If I'm paying £1000 I want durability not dents, rust, and lie and loft issues every few months
Mizuno blades (no matter how old) in near pristine condition are a thing of beauty. That basic design of the MP-14 still looks good and performs well. Great work and thanks for sharing.
This is the best example I can think of, where a creator has dialed in their recipe for the best videos for their content type. How amazing your videos are now vs. how really good they were before is probably a product of being open to constructive criticisms and amending accordingly. This is just so spot on. Love it so much.
I am so impressed with what you do. You absolutely transform those tired clubs into pristine condition, must be so satisfying. Would send you mine, but I live in England! First class results.
Play mp5s ...and I try best to take very good care of them ...good to know if one day I want to restore them now I have a better idea of how to go about it ...
Just outstanding! Liked the ferrule saving trick, but is the ferrule permanently stretched? I guess it would get epoxied in place when the head is reattached.
@@texasgreg No, the epoxy just gets warm and gummy enough to let it slide. It's the same approach as the video I have when I slide it back down if it has a gap.
@Brad Meehan Did the Muriatic also remove the chrome layer in this video? Then did you plate over a nickel layer?? I have some Hogan Radial's on the way I'd like to refurb and planned to do a nickel plating. Not sure if I have to remove the nickel before I re-plate though. A few other quick questions - what's your ratio of water to muriatic? What's the ratio of baking soda to water for the acid neutralization? Thanks! Love the videos!
Do you ever touch up a club after you plate it? I just did my first wedge with your set up and have a few nicks and spots on it. Also, I notice a ton of fumes with electro cleaning, nickel activating, and the chrome plating solution. Do you wear a mask at all times or do you ventilate it?
I'm in a well ventilated area, bit I don't really see fumes. I notice mist from the aerator. But, yes. Use a mask and gloves. You can do some touch up after But I'd use nothing more than white compound. I usually give it a final buff with green compound on the cotton wheel right before I film the last scene.
I love the videos and am thinking of trying to do this myself as I’m pretty handy with this stuff and restored woods as a kid for myself and others. I have an old set of Mizuno MP-30 that need restoration. Do you do this for others or just as a hobby for yourself?
This is incredible!! I inherited a set of my late grandfather’s Gary Player Slazenger bladed set which I’d love to restore - but I have 0 experience. Any advice on where best to start? Is it a costly process?
You can do most of this with just sandpaper until you get to the electroplating. There is an expense to that (the nickel crystals, the anode, the power supply). I bought my bench grinders from Harbor Freight (cheap tool store in the US) and estate sales ($20). There are links in the description to everything I use if you want to see the prices for everything.
@mmj58bbr I purchased them but they're poorly made. The stitching seems to separate after a while. I'll see if I can find a link, but the manufacturer was the Gold Plating Services. Their videos and products are good, but these wool sleeves are not.
They stay shiny if you take care of them, like wipe them down after playing and keeping them from banging into each other in the bag. The good news is, you can always re-polish them now that you know how.
Brad, you don't seem to chrome plate your restorations. Does the nickel finish hold up in use? Is there any issue with tarnishing? Is chrome plating especially difficult?
It's tough. Check out this video where I try to remove it. There's a product called reprochrome you can use that's more durable using the same method, but you can just stick with nickel. th-cam.com/video/ydC3QXq4IsM/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Thanks for all of your videos. You truly do amazing work. I have a few questions as I attempt to refinish a set of irons. How long do you let the club head sit in the acid to remove chrome and rust? Can I do multiple club heads at once?
15 minutes or so. Don't forget to dump out the hosel of the liquid. I'd do it in the garage or an open area. It's not worth doing more than one because they start to oxidize right away. One at a time is best so you can do an assembly line of polishing one while plating the other.
question regarding your setup at 4:17 sec of this video, what is the paper looking stuff with tape(?) on the electrodes and how about the black handled item, air pump, solution heater or combination?? Also when is the drawing for the suckers? Thanks
That is called an 'anode bag'. It's just a muslin cloth around the anode to keep contamination out of the solution. The black thing is a fish tank heater. The shop was 60 degrees so I put it in there to warm the solution. I also have an old crock pot to warm it. There is also a fish tank aerator that I always use to keep bubbles from sticking to the club and to move around the solution.
Correct. You're using abrasives during sanding, polishing, scotch Brite so it is slowly being removed. It's softer than chrome so it will be easier to polish.
I over-sandblasted a club once and chipped the plating. So now i just do it before. It seems to retain the texture and the finish looks even. You'll notice when I use the blaster, it looks patchy until it's plated. It's a matter or preference, but I'm 'gun shy' about screwing up another club that was 99.9999999% complete.
The acid removes the rust, etches the underlying metal to make sanding easier, and helps with the chrome removal without touching the nickel under it. You'd only have to do it on the carbon steel irons that have rust - not a stainless club. I cover the numbers so I don't sand them down too much. Once the letters are gone, they're GONE so protect them any way you can. If they're deep, then you can get away without taping them.
Those were at one time, highly sought after. I have a set of 1971 Wilson Fluid Feels (the same type of clubs Johnny Miller won his US Open with)... I'd love to see those restored. I'd just display them on the wall like a piece of art.
They are ART for sure. That's why I've been finding single, unique clubs to restore versus full sets. There's so much to look at from a design perspective. I love the shapes, fonts, finishing techniques of these clubs that hanging them on a wall is art to me.
Hey Brad, I’ve been watching a bunch of your videos and it’s inspired me to give it a try on an old set of amp-32’s. Quick question…are you also sanding and buffing out the dings/scratches on the club face as well or just the surrounding areas and then blasting the face for refinish?
I do a little touch up before blasting it so it looks even. Some say you'll dull the grooves, but as a bogey-ish player, I've never noticed. The blasting does mask the imperfections so if you're not too concerned with picture perfect all around, you can skip it.
Amazing job. Probably the best iron restoration I’ve seen to date. For someone without all this specialized equipment, what would you recommend for someone that wants to restore a vintage set of Irons.
Great stuff! I'm just getting started doing some refurbishing of some old clubs of mine. Couple of questions, first, how long did you leave the iron in the acid dip? Second, how do you know if the club is plated with chrome or is stainless steel?
Do you typically go from 400 grit sanding to the sisal wheel or do you recommend going higher than that? Trying to figure out what the grit transition is from sanding to the sisal wheel
Hi, Miguel - There are equipment links in the description to get an idea of costs for what you're missing. Most of my stuff is used, homemade, or bought from inexpensive tool stores. You can do most of this with just sandpaper but it takes FOREVER.
Hi Brad, great content and beautiful work! I have a set of Mizuno MP5s with some light bag chatter, can these be polished out? Any videos of just polishing forged clubs? Thank you!
It can be shined, but the the chatter won't be removed unless you sand them away. Then, you risk the chrome plating being removed. So, unless you are going to replate them, I'd just shine them up and and enjoy them. I'm doing a video soon on Electroless plating, which will greatly simplify the plating process for everyone.
I owned these irons back then & now the pro 223. Good video, but would've been better had there been talking with products used & instruction with amount of times. Otherwise good
Beautiful clubs thast cost a bomb put in a bag with no head covers - and you expect what exactly? Cool video etc. but the lack of respect owners have for these little pieces of craftsmenship does my head in
I'm pro-head cover, too. You wouldn't believe the difference in a set that's been covered and one that was not. I have a set of 60's MacGregor MT Tourneys that were covered by the previous owner, and they're pristine.
@mmj58bbr yes. Just the chrome layer. The nickel is not as durable as chrome but it's quite durable. Check out my video where I made the Vokey wedge black. That will show you how difficult it is to remove it. It's takes a lot to remove it and it's "safer" than chrome to plate at home.
@@BradMeehan Hey thanks so much for replying so fast. I will look at that. It is not like I will play 50 rounds with the MP 32s though I was kitting them nice at the range. Can you ealily tell when the chrome is filly removed. I can laso have a local plater do the chrome if I like. I should have purchased the near new mp32s from Japan. 😁 It would have been way cheaaper but not as interesting, I plan on swapping out the older shafts for steel fiber shafts. In my hands thy seem to add 9-10 yards for the 8 iron.
The plating has got to be the hard part. Lots of nasty chemicals and probably expensive. I'll have to check out the product page. Beyond the nasty comments below, good job!
Thanks. Check out my electroless plating video. It makes it super easy. I pinned that one negative comment to the top to bust his balls front-and-center to everyone who sees the video. I was a stand-up comic for a long time, so I know how to F with hecklers.
Your videos just convinced me to buy a set of MP-33’s to refinish and they can’t get here soon enough. I’m fairly squared away in the shop, short of not having a scotch brite belt sander. If you had to use something else in place of that, what would you use?
You don't need the belts. It's just a time saver. You'll learn WAY more if you do it by hand. EVERY screw up was because I over-did it with a power tool. Sand paper is the way to go. Also, my answer comes from the perspective that you want to do this because its enjoyable, you want to chill out in the shop, sip something cold, and listen to music, versus doing mass production work. If you're doing this as a job, then you can invest in the belt sander. Otherwise, you'll get more satisfaction knowing you did this by hand.
I apologize for being a grouch but... Every set of M14's I've ever seen had the sweet spot on the face/grooves absolutely pulverized. This almost feels inauthentic to me since I don't think there's a single set of M14's for sale out there where all the irons would have a face/grooves like this one. Is there something you can do for an M14 (or any other old iron) with the face really worked/worn away incredibly badly?
You're not being a grouch. That's a valid question. My guess is that its condition on the face is because it's a 3 iron and most 3 irons (or lower) aren't hit as much. I have pristine 2 irons on sets that are trash. This particular iron I bought on ebay and it's never been played by me. Check out my Maxfli Australian Blade video for an example of one with the face like you described.
So 1. Thank you for answering my question! Very nice of you. 2. Thanks for not thinking I'm a total jerk lol. I'm glad you know what I'm talking about. But most importantly 3. WOW! Yeah how you restored the face in that one is EXACTLY what I was wondering about. And it came out looking as good as the faces on a new set of irons. Assuming you don't mind a follow up question: how much of the scotch brite belt sanding do you do on the face? Like just a quick/shot hit or does it need a bit more to even out that face? (long before the grooves are redone, then the sandblasting)
Oh also side note: as I'm going through your videos I can't stop laughing at the comments you decide to pin. Fantastic sense of humor; good on you man.
I have just bought a set of 1987 TP-9s and plan to do this job on them, thank you very much for putting this together so clearly. Given me some confidence that I can DIY it 👍🏻
Awesome job, great vid. Whats the purpose of the muriatic acid..is that to remove rust and old paint? Also what is the stuff you spray on the grooves? I have some nice old cobras i want to clean up, but probably not worried about plating them....be stoked if I could get them looking even half as good as yours look.
The acid is rust removal but also takes off the chrome without messing up the nickel beneath it. It's not compatible with stainless clubs. Just the steel.
@BradMeehan, thanks for the reply. I've pulled together the materials from your Amazon list. Thank you for that. Can you comment on how long in the plating bath until complete?
Thank you. I spray it with a cheap, handheld sand blaster. I think it's 20 dollars or so. There's a link in the description to equipment if you'd like to see it.
You could do that, for sure. It will give it a texture that contrasts with the shiny sides and still look good. The handheld blaster is maybe 25 dollars and you can borrow a friend's compressor if you want to do the blasting. I prefer this because of the uniform look across the face that I couldn't get with sand paper.
Clearly a man with too much time on his hands and he’s still left with an old set of clubs. They will look tatty within a couple of winter rounds. He need to get out more.
If you were so busy you would t be commenting on someone’s video lol.
This looks more your speed, David:
th-cam.com/video/p_R1UDsNOMk/w-d-xo.html
Apparently you don’t know much about Mizuno irons!
Love mizuno, but they are a mess after a few seasons... If I'm paying £1000 I want durability not dents, rust, and lie and loft issues every few months
@@BradMeehanyou got a new subscriber after that 😂😂
Mizuno blades (no matter how old) in near pristine condition are a thing of beauty. That basic design of the MP-14 still looks good and performs well. Great work and thanks for sharing.
This is the best example I can think of, where a creator has dialed in their recipe for the best videos for their content type. How amazing your videos are now vs. how really good they were before is probably a product of being open to constructive criticisms and amending accordingly. This is just so spot on. Love it so much.
That's the most incredible thing I've ever seen. Just when I thought you were finished it just got better and better.
Thank you. Please share with a friend!
Very nice. I have a set of old MP-14's and they are fantastic irons. Well worth restoring!
Definitely worth it.
MP 14’s are great clubs. Never could hit the 3 iron though! Must have been a good golfer who had that one 😂. Great job as always Brad.
I still have these in my bag now! :)
I am so impressed with what you do. You absolutely transform those tired clubs into pristine condition, must be so satisfying. Would send you mine, but I live in England! First class results.
Plenty of places in UK do this if you know where to look. 😊
I would love to try this on my MP 57 irons, but I'm not sure I have the patience lol. Great Job!
Great job. That's a piece of art.
Wonderful video that club head looks amazing..thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Stunning work my friend, beautiful set of clubs, are you going to do the whole set ?
That's pretty sweet. Wish i could do this to the ol ping zing 2s
Mind-blowing. Enjoyed such fine craftsmanship. Gracias por compartir. Saludos.
Gracias!
Coolest thing I’ve ever seen
Thank you! Please subscribe - there's more on the way.
Amazing ❤
Play mp5s ...and I try best to take very good care of them ...good to know if one day I want to restore them now I have a better idea of how to go about it ...
Mizuno's always had such a timeless look. Beautiful.
All of their blades are stunning.
Hell ya. Big process tho with having to get everything. I have been thinking of getting into this for some time now
Great job!
Shoutout to "Dbuckfan Plays" for the cool ferrule saving tip.
Just outstanding! Liked the ferrule saving trick, but is the ferrule permanently stretched? I guess it would get epoxied in place when the head is reattached.
@@texasgreg why would it stretch?
@@texasgreg No, the epoxy just gets warm and gummy enough to let it slide. It's the same approach as the video I have when I slide it back down if it has a gap.
Great job.
Thanks for watching!
@Brad Meehan Did the Muriatic also remove the chrome layer in this video? Then did you plate over a nickel layer?? I have some Hogan Radial's on the way I'd like to refurb and planned to do a nickel plating. Not sure if I have to remove the nickel before I re-plate though. A few other quick questions - what's your ratio of water to muriatic? What's the ratio of baking soda to water for the acid neutralization? Thanks! Love the videos!
Great work! Stunning results as always. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Cheers, Graeme!
That's my first set of irons. MP 14. Got them used in 2003. Felt amazing out of the middle, but incredibly unforgiving.
They're great looking clubs!
@BradMeehan They really are. And you did a great job with your restoration.
Do you ever touch up a club after you plate it? I just did my first wedge with your set up and have a few nicks and spots on it.
Also, I notice a ton of fumes with electro cleaning, nickel activating, and the chrome plating solution.
Do you wear a mask at all times or do you ventilate it?
I'm in a well ventilated area, bit I don't really see fumes. I notice mist from the aerator. But, yes. Use a mask and gloves.
You can do some touch up after But I'd use nothing more than white compound. I usually give it a final buff with green compound on the cotton wheel right before I film the last scene.
Beautifull!
Thank you
Love the video. ASMR awesomeness
Thanks! Check out the new one!
I love the videos and am thinking of trying to do this myself as I’m pretty handy with this stuff and restored woods as a kid for myself and others. I have an old set of Mizuno MP-30 that need restoration. Do you do this for others or just as a hobby for yourself?
hello
I am from Thailand I like your work And I want you to help me. I would like you to help me restore my Club iron.
This is incredible!! I inherited a set of my late grandfather’s Gary Player Slazenger bladed set which I’d love to restore - but I have 0 experience. Any advice on where best to start? Is it a costly process?
You can do most of this with just sandpaper until you get to the electroplating. There is an expense to that (the nickel crystals, the anode, the power supply). I bought my bench grinders from Harbor Freight (cheap tool store in the US) and estate sales ($20).
There are links in the description to everything I use if you want to see the prices for everything.
What are you using for your hand held electrode with cloth cover to apply metal solution. . How do you make one of these diy
@mmj58bbr I purchased them but they're poorly made. The stitching seems to separate after a while. I'll see if I can find a link, but the manufacturer was the Gold Plating Services. Their videos and products are good, but these wool sleeves are not.
The irons look really good after the polishing. Will they stay shiny? Or is the nickel plating needed to keep them shiny?
They stay shiny if you take care of them, like wipe them down after playing and keeping them from banging into each other in the bag. The good news is, you can always re-polish them now that you know how.
what grit level are the sanding belts you use?
Love it.
If I may ask, what was the spray gun you used on the face restoration?
It's a handheld sandblasted. There are links to equipment on the description if you want to see it.
Brad, you don't seem to chrome plate your restorations. Does the nickel finish hold up in use? Is there any issue with tarnishing? Is chrome plating especially difficult?
It's tough. Check out this video where I try to remove it. There's a product called reprochrome you can use that's more durable using the same method, but you can just stick with nickel.
th-cam.com/video/ydC3QXq4IsM/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
@@BradMeehan Does the nickel wear excessively or tarnish with use?
Thanks for all of your videos. You truly do amazing work. I have a few questions as I attempt to refinish a set of irons.
How long do you let the club head sit in the acid to remove chrome and rust? Can I do multiple club heads at once?
15 minutes or so. Don't forget to dump out the hosel of the liquid. I'd do it in the garage or an open area. It's not worth doing more than one because they start to oxidize right away. One at a time is best so you can do an assembly line of polishing one while plating the other.
Amazing. You’re the man Brad!
Does this mean you have to plate the club within a certain time after you acid bath/grind/polish?
question regarding your setup at 4:17 sec of this video, what is the paper looking stuff with tape(?) on the electrodes and how about the black handled item, air pump, solution heater or combination?? Also when is the drawing for the suckers? Thanks
That is called an 'anode bag'. It's just a muslin cloth around the anode to keep contamination out of the solution.
The black thing is a fish tank heater. The shop was 60 degrees so I put it in there to warm the solution. I also have an old crock pot to warm it. There is also a fish tank aerator that I always use to keep bubbles from sticking to the club and to move around the solution.
Wow!!😮😊
I bought a set of MP-14s just to do this exact same thing! May be a interesting experiment to try a brushed or satin finish!
It'd be much easier and faster than the mirror look. Check out my brushed metal finish video and you can see how it could potentially look.
i used spirit of salts on my wedges, and it rotted the faces off, turned out my wedges were fake and not forged like i thought they was
Bard..he muriatic does not attack nickel plating, but it does when you polish it with scotch brite?
Correct. You're using abrasives during sanding, polishing, scotch Brite so it is slowly being removed. It's softer than chrome so it will be easier to polish.
@@BradMeehan Have you tried nickel plating in a finish other than mirror polished? such as brushed or satin steel?
@@gastonmaffei1721 yes. I did a brushed finish a few weeks ago.
The Wilson
Can you explain why you nickel plate it after the sandblast? Doesn’t that reduce the grip of the ball?
I over-sandblasted a club once and chipped the plating. So now i just do it before. It seems to retain the texture and the finish looks even. You'll notice when I use the blaster, it looks patchy until it's plated.
It's a matter or preference, but I'm 'gun shy' about screwing up another club that was 99.9999999% complete.
@@BradMeehan it looks amazing! Lots of money in it, for people that just have to have their old clubs
Great videos!!
1.What is the purpose of the muriatic acid bath?
2. Why cover the number and logo on the bottom of the club?
Thank you!!
The acid removes the rust, etches the underlying metal to make sanding easier, and helps with the chrome removal without touching the nickel under it. You'd only have to do it on the carbon steel irons that have rust - not a stainless club.
I cover the numbers so I don't sand them down too much. Once the letters are gone, they're GONE so protect them any way you can. If they're deep, then you can get away without taping them.
I have a set of Mizuno Wings from the 80's that I still use primary. Thumbs up to vintage clubs.
Those were at one time, highly sought after. I have a set of 1971 Wilson Fluid Feels (the same type of clubs Johnny Miller won his US Open with)... I'd love to see those restored. I'd just display them on the wall like a piece of art.
They are ART for sure. That's why I've been finding single, unique clubs to restore versus full sets. There's so much to look at from a design perspective. I love the shapes, fonts, finishing techniques of these clubs that hanging them on a wall is art to me.
Hey Brad, I’ve been watching a bunch of your videos and it’s inspired me to give it a try on an old set of amp-32’s. Quick question…are you also sanding and buffing out the dings/scratches on the club face as well or just the surrounding areas and then blasting the face for refinish?
I do a little touch up before blasting it so it looks even. Some say you'll dull the grooves, but as a bogey-ish player, I've never noticed. The blasting does mask the imperfections so if you're not too concerned with picture perfect all around, you can skip it.
Amazing job. Probably the best iron restoration I’ve seen to date. For someone without all this specialized equipment, what would you recommend for someone that wants to restore a vintage set of Irons.
Just gorgeous! I really enjoy your videos. You should write a book or a “paid for” video class. Phenomenal information here.
What a nice compliment! Thank you.
Brad whats your address so I can send you my club heads?!!!! You definitely have skills!
Wow
Great stuff! I'm just getting started doing some refurbishing of some old clubs of mine. Couple of questions, first, how long did you leave the iron in the acid dip? Second, how do you know if the club is plated with chrome or is stainless steel?
About 15 minutes. If there's rust, it's not stainless. What club is it? I have a book that shows vintage irons and their makeup.
@@BradMeehan Quite late, but could I replicate this process with taylormade p-770s? This is a beautiful process and I’d like to fix my own clubs
Do you typically go from 400 grit sanding to the sisal wheel or do you recommend going higher than that? Trying to figure out what the grit transition is from sanding to the sisal wheel
How much does all of your equipment cost (just an estimate)?
Hi, Miguel - There are equipment links in the description to get an idea of costs for what you're missing. Most of my stuff is used, homemade, or bought from inexpensive tool stores. You can do most of this with just sandpaper but it takes FOREVER.
I have a set of Mizuno grad irons I still use that I wish I had time to refinish like this. Excellent work 👍
You see the steps are easy. The polishing wheels do most of the work. Hope you give it a try
Hi Brad, great content and beautiful work!
I have a set of Mizuno MP5s with some light bag chatter, can these be polished out? Any videos of just polishing forged clubs?
Thank you!
It can be shined, but the the chatter won't be removed unless you sand them away. Then, you risk the chrome plating being removed. So, unless you are going to replate them, I'd just shine them up and and enjoy them.
I'm doing a video soon on Electroless plating, which will greatly simplify the plating process for everyone.
@@BradMeehan Thanks!
Dude can I buy those MP 14's off you? I loved that club, used it for years and my son lost 3 of the irons. Vomit!!!
Kids ruin everything! Haha.
How much would you charge to restore a set of my mp33. 3 to pw. Thanks
Beautifully done, it doesn't look like the same club.
Thank you. What a transformation!
What would happen if you stopped at the step face reconditioning? Is the nickel plating necessary? Thanks! Love the videos!
わたしのms801もやって下さいm(_ _)m職人技やね⤴️⤴️⤴️
I owned these irons back then & now the pro 223. Good video, but would've been better had there been talking with products used & instruction with amount of times. Otherwise good
Thanks. Check out the tutorials Playlist for the how-to guides.
I will never toss my MP-29's, because they can be resurrected like this.
Beautiful clubs thast cost a bomb put in a bag with no head covers - and you expect what exactly? Cool video etc. but the lack of respect owners have for these little pieces of craftsmenship does my head in
I'm pro-head cover, too. You wouldn't believe the difference in a set that's been covered and one that was not. I have a set of 60's MacGregor MT Tourneys that were covered by the previous owner, and they're pristine.
Beautifully done! I love the attention to detail
Thank you. Please share with a friend.
can you just sand blast the whole thing to skip a bunch of steps lol??
I'm actually doing that for a "matte finish" video! Of course, my self-diagnosed OCDness won't let me get away without removing scratches first.
Would using a Scotchbrite mop on a grinder have the same effect as you using the belt?
Absolutely. You don't even need it if you just sand it, though. It's just a time saver.
When you hit that middle of club face and watch the ball going straight in the air= you wonder why people need drugs.
Exactly!
I have these exact irons and love them. How much would you charge to do a whole set 3-9 if just club heads?
how thick is that nickel coating?
wow!! I have some KZG ZO blades I'd like to refinish like this
You definitely should try it!
Fantastic!
Glad you like it!
I had my mp-57s refurbished, now sporting a gunmetal grey finish.
What was that first belt you used? Amazing job!
It's a scotch Brite belt. Like a scrubbing pad for dishes but in belt form.
HI Did the Muriatic acid completely remove the chrome layer above the nickel? HOw much softer is just a nickel finish?
@mmj58bbr yes. Just the chrome layer. The nickel is not as durable as chrome but it's quite durable. Check out my video where I made the Vokey wedge black. That will show you how difficult it is to remove it. It's takes a lot to remove it and it's "safer" than chrome to plate at home.
@@BradMeehan Hey thanks so much for replying so fast. I will look at that. It is not like I will play 50 rounds with the MP 32s though I was kitting them nice at the range. Can you ealily tell when the chrome is filly removed. I can laso have a local plater do the chrome if I like. I should have purchased the near new mp32s from Japan. 😁 It would have been way cheaaper but not as interesting, I plan on swapping out the older shafts for steel fiber shafts. In my hands thy seem to add 9-10 yards for the 8 iron.
What are you applying to the face if you don't mind me asking?
It's a handheld sandblaster gun using the aluminum oxide media to blast the face. There's a how to video about it.
Fantastic!! Great job!
I would ask you to restore my TP-11. 😊
What is the application that roughens the club face. Flat grey.
It's a handheld sandblaster. Check out the equipment link in the description to see one.
How much do you charge?
The old butter knife!!! Love them!!
One of the best irons I have ever played. Not that hard to hit, honestly. And they feel so good.
Looks really nice but what about the grooves?
I have an inexpensive groove sharpener that does OK.
The plating has got to be the hard part. Lots of nasty chemicals and probably expensive. I'll have to check out the product page. Beyond the nasty comments below, good job!
Thanks. Check out my electroless plating video. It makes it super easy.
I pinned that one negative comment to the top to bust his balls front-and-center to everyone who sees the video. I was a stand-up comic for a long time, so I know how to F with hecklers.
do you have a video on restoring non-chromed plated forged clubs ? (in my cause, muira 1957s)
That's interesting. What is the finish over the steel? Is it plated at all?
Would you attempt to re-groove them, if so, how?
@pahhaw4251 I don't know of an at-home, DIY method to regroove, but there are groove sharpener tools.
Your videos just convinced me to buy a set of MP-33’s to refinish and they can’t get here soon enough. I’m fairly squared away in the shop, short of not having a scotch brite belt sander. If you had to use something else in place of that, what would you use?
You don't need the belts. It's just a time saver. You'll learn WAY more if you do it by hand. EVERY screw up was because I over-did it with a power tool. Sand paper is the way to go.
Also, my answer comes from the perspective that you want to do this because its enjoyable, you want to chill out in the shop, sip something cold, and listen to music, versus doing mass production work. If you're doing this as a job, then you can invest in the belt sander. Otherwise, you'll get more satisfaction knowing you did this by hand.
I apologize for being a grouch but... Every set of M14's I've ever seen had the sweet spot on the face/grooves absolutely pulverized. This almost feels inauthentic to me since I don't think there's a single set of M14's for sale out there where all the irons would have a face/grooves like this one.
Is there something you can do for an M14 (or any other old iron) with the face really worked/worn away incredibly badly?
You're not being a grouch. That's a valid question. My guess is that its condition on the face is because it's a 3 iron and most 3 irons (or lower) aren't hit as much. I have pristine 2 irons on sets that are trash. This particular iron I bought on ebay and it's never been played by me.
Check out my Maxfli Australian Blade video for an example of one with the face like you described.
So 1. Thank you for answering my question! Very nice of you.
2. Thanks for not thinking I'm a total jerk lol. I'm glad you know what I'm talking about.
But most importantly 3.
WOW! Yeah how you restored the face in that one is EXACTLY what I was wondering about. And it came out looking as good as the faces on a new set of irons.
Assuming you don't mind a follow up question: how much of the scotch brite belt sanding do you do on the face? Like just a quick/shot hit or does it need a bit more to even out that face? (long before the grooves are redone, then the sandblasting)
Oh also side note: as I'm going through your videos I can't stop laughing at the comments you decide to pin. Fantastic sense of humor; good on you man.
Awesome job like always . Keep up the good work .
Thank you, friend.
...but can you hit that blade 3-iron..?
1 in 20 swings, tops.
Now I know why I have a sandblaster, industrial belt sander and electroplating setup just lying around.
The sandblaster was 20 dollars, you can use sandpaper, and we made the electroplating tank in one of the videos. Who's more sassy? Me or you?
I have just bought a set of 1987 TP-9s and plan to do this job on them, thank you very much for putting this together so clearly. Given me some confidence that I can DIY it 👍🏻
You're welcome! Thanks for watching. There's more to come.
Unbelievable!
Thank you!
@@BradMeehan hypothetically, how much would the average 10 piece set cost for head restoration?
My 3 iron is like new anyway, for obvious reasons. Great work!
This is just amazing amzing amzing. thanks for sharing Brad.
Awesome job, great vid. Whats the purpose of the muriatic acid..is that to remove rust and old paint? Also what is the stuff you spray on the grooves? I have some nice old cobras i want to clean up, but probably not worried about plating them....be stoked if I could get them looking even half as good as yours look.
The acid is rust removal but also takes off the chrome without messing up the nickel beneath it. It's not compatible with stainless clubs. Just the steel.
Curious why you plated after the sand blasting? Does the face hold up better after plating over the blasted finish?
I chipped the plating once because I was too aggressive. Now I'm gun shy.
@BradMeehan, thanks for the reply. I've pulled together the materials from your Amazon list. Thank you for that. Can you comment on how long in the plating bath until complete?
@@keithlapinski1594 Thanks for supporting me and the channel. 30 minutes is plenty in the bath.
Plot twist, the before photos were taken after only 3 weeks of ownership to get to that condition...
Lol
its like putting lipstick on a granny
Just like a restored GTO
wow
Excellent work. What process/tools are you using for the face reconditioning?
Thank you. I spray it with a cheap, handheld sand blaster. I think it's 20 dollars or so. There's a link in the description to equipment if you'd like to see it.
You’ve inspired me. I doing a set of mp33’s. How long do you soak in the bath to plate?
30 minutes will give a good layer. You can do it longer for a thicker plate.
Don't be afraid to buff it after to smooth it out.
@@BradMeehan Thanks for the reply. Bubbling as I type this. Great content. Really happy to be able to revive these old clubs.
@@pauli2062 I made a Facebook support group for help if you get stuck. Look for DIY golf club Restoration if you want to join.
If I wanted to recondition the face of a restored club but I don't have a sand blaster, would a mid grit sandpaper or brillo pad work fine?
You could do that, for sure. It will give it a texture that contrasts with the shiny sides and still look good.
The handheld blaster is maybe 25 dollars and you can borrow a friend's compressor if you want to do the blasting. I prefer this because of the uniform look across the face that I couldn't get with sand paper.
My only issue is I still couldn't hit it
Exactly. I just posted a video of me trying to hit a 2 iron. It went just like you'd expect!