This is how I temporary fixed Audi turbo under boost problem the fault code was P0299. Note this video was edited and re-uploaded due to background music.
@@jakecx259 hmmm? Idk man maybe a different Bible King James Version is what I’ve read …. But to each their own I’m just saying my opinion not trying to offend anyone .
I literally fix the same issue with it in the car The actuator that rod goes to I just bent the bracket slightly with a pry bar My car's been running without the under boost code for over a year now
@@wesleyhunter501 some aftermarket actuators have an adjustable rod mine did not because it's factory the actuator bracket is what I bent moving the actuator and rod which tightened the internal flap
Thanks a ton ! Honestly, unable to trust any mechs in my place (India).. they say they have to do multi-point inspections and have to hand over the car with them for a day, I can't do that anyway, this video was really helpful !
This was great video, thanks for making this man, you saved me some $$$ ! For anyone who’s trying to do this get bigger pliers, personally think two 12 inch pliers should do to get around space constraints like shown in the video. I didn’t have two and had difficulty in wrenching them, so used a c clamp for the upper part and wrenched the bottom one, worked like a charm, did like 20 miles so far not much but plan to do more over the week, will post here once i do more miles! Thanks for the video
Hello, I have P029900 low boost code or turbo undercharge and it was noticeable that my car is losing power or not boosting enough. I change diverter valve and nothing. remove the catalytic converter and there was decemt amount of free play on the wastegate. I hammered it the rod in the fron kinda push it back and boost is back and this is my temporary fix till i replace the entire unit.
Car would still run and drive with under-boost which would causes to loose some power depends how bad under-boost is some drivers don't even notice anything and keep drive like that for long time but also keep in mind modern vehicles won't pass smog test if check engine light is on so automatically can't register it in many states without smog test/check. Thanks for watching I am glad you like it
Hi Sam I have same code with 2013 Dodge Dart 1.4L. CEL came on while driving and car felt like bogging down under hard acceleration. However in city driving it runs fine. Issue comes when running on highways especially under high rpm while overtaking.
Since you have under boost code P0299 big possibility is that wastegate is loose and not holding boost so I would check on that first but after engine cools down overnight then go from there, also sometimes but very rare boost solenoid goes bed as well.
Buenas noches una pregunta que pieza estás reparando Yo tengo un onix turbo 2021 tengo perdida de potencia y codigo p0237 pero unos dicen que es el catalizador
I am having hyundai sonata 2013 same error (p0299 turbocharger/supercharger underboost) dashboard engine light also always on, couple of times local garage try to reset code but but it come back after a day, when I ask him to checkthere might be some small issue cuz I feel car race and pickup is kinda slow, but they all say one thing just change turbo, after seeing your video I'm more sure I might have the same issue
In most cases P0299 trouble code is related to wastegate issue, but also to be on safe side maybe same garage can take look if is wastegate loose or not after engine cools down. Thanks for watching
Hi there, great video, I’m having issue with my car, I wonder if can help me out. My fault code is p2598 and the car slows down, it says turbo vane performance low. Thanks
Sam i have same code but car also trows bad caltalityc converter p0420 and p0299 code...only happend on hill at 4000rpm=> ...changed plugs coils and still same issue...its 1.8tsi gen 3 2014 model year...i turn off thr car and code is gone till full gas on hill on 3 4 gear and epc light is on again...
Since you mentioned that EPC lights keeps coming back on basing on that I would have mechanic check oxygen sensors first after engine cools down 100% over night then go from there.
If car warranty is expired already and aftermarket turbo matches specs and quality I don't see why not since that's external part if goes bad replace it again, but I wouldn't prefer aftermarket parts.
@@samstye thank you for that information. I’m getting a p0299 code, and the 2 repair shops I’ve gone to have insisted on the idea of a bad turbo (only one has looked at it, and they’re a gas station general service and maintenance shop). The quotes they’ve given me are absurd, and both of them have actually gone up from one day to the next despite nothing changing from 1800 for a full install to 2300, 2400, 2600. I can see plainly that aftermarket kits, even OEM kits, costing a maximum of $1200, and the standard job time is 4.5-6 hours. The car runs butter smooth, just doesn’t have much power and the CEL is on. I don’t feel the diagnosis is right, or at the very least doesn’t require a brand new turbo, but what do I know LOL.
There is any way I can call you?? I have the same issue with my 2009 Volkswagen tiguan Turbo/supercharger P0299 if you can fix for me , just need address and phone number, also price
I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
So for my understanding; you are bending the axle which goes through the turbo? In other words; are you "closing" the room for play by bending it a little bit?
@@samstye Ah ok. So this is a way to fix it when you dont have an adjustable rod on your wastegate actuator? Because I can adjust mine on my Audi Q5. So I can just tighten it a little bit to achieve the same result right?
The way I did it is by twisting it just enough to close the gate snug and I also made sure it opens/closes freely without delays didn't need any additional tension on the wastegate rad or pre-pull all it needs is to close lightly that's all, @@Frostensen
what could be the problem bmw x5 e70 m57y 35d twin turbo there was error 4530 for high boost pressure, and after removing the particulate filter, egr, ad blue, and swirl flaps, another error appeared P0299 for low boost pressure and now both errors
@@samstye on the speedometer there are 220 thousand kilometers, and the real one is 280 thousand, but the engine was already changed in my presence and on the second engine it was 177 thousand, and now it’s somewhere around 200, they changed the engine because the master changed the nozzles and after replacing the nozzles they didn’t put wires on the fuel rail , they didn’t think the pressure in the fuel rail and the quick start sprayed into the intake and water hammer, the starter jammed, the connecting rod bent, the lock broke! But error 4530 was temporary at a speed of 150-160 km and now also P0299 although there is no backlash in the turbines everything seems to work well the vacuum works
@@roman_9307 At this mileages can be couple different things but I would check charge pipe from turbo output to the throttle valve connection tube for cracks, also pneumatic valve gets sometimes rarely stuck and not letting air flow trough in between two turbos if your car has one, or waste gate flapper is sticky or loose, I would start from small things first
@@samstye replaced the vacuum hoses, they were cracked, replaced the red pipe from the turbine to the intercooler as the latch was broken and there was a cut on the pipe and replaced the solenoid valve! Could it be a problem with the air flow sensor? it was already changed before me in 2017. the fact is that I have 2 controlled valves on the turbine and I checked the vacuum with the engine running, one holds the vacuum and the second does not, but I don’t know how they work correctly. but no one wants to look for the cause in the service, they say it’s easier to completely remove the turbines and restore them, they also say that this error may be due to the wastegate, but it seems to me everything is ok with him.
@@roman_9307 There is 0.25" diameter metal rad connected to the waste gate flapper which should be snug not loose I usually wait after engine cools down over night then check since that's constant dangerously red hut area I prefer to have mechanic check.
@@samstye I removed the entire assembly , and did the exact same thing you did it’s tight for now is there like a range of mileage I will get before it fails again?
@@6hunnitCCsan it really depends on driving habit but the one you see on this video drove already about 40k miles and still runs with no problems or check engine light.
Wait please answer this. The washer you took off so that the waste gate opened, is that supposed to be on there? From my understanding you had the washer on and the waste gate was closed although it was moving still and it wasn't supposed too correct? So if i have a washer on and the waste gate is closed and doesn't move is that a good sign? Im just confused because how would it be able to open when it needs to if the washer is on
The washer is there only to prevent actuator rod from falling off the wastegate spindle, The actuator is the one which opens and closes wastegate. I hope that clears confusion little bit. Thanks for watching!
I have a movano 2010 and I get P0299 only about 80km/h or above on a steep hill/under load. The car is still running fine and it sounds completely normal. I clear the code with my OBD scanner and then it can run fine for days without it coming back on. As soon as I put the van under heavier load, the code comes back. What could it possibly be?
Seems like wastegate issue just started, I would have local mechanic take look if wastegate rod is loose before anything else but keep in mind that engine needs to be completely cold because that area at and around turbo is constantly red hot, in most cases mechanic wont even charge you since that takes only like 1min of his time. Thanks for watching
@@JimOnFoot We can only guess from here, but friendly Mechanic would tell you quick fix because it depends how bad it's. if that really is problem but it would be my starting point to check.
@@samstye So back from the mechanic, but he don't know for sure what it is. The hose going from the turbo to the intercooler is collapsing when you rev the engine. I've checked all the hoses and there is no blockage. What do you think it could be?
@@JimOnFoot Did you check air filter?, I don't think that turbo stopped spinning if so you would notice big different in power so most likely air restriction somewhere, air box is good place to check.
Hi Sam, I've got Seat Ibiza 1.6TDI 2011 with turbo under boost. I checked one side of the turbo where the turbine is and it spins all right and I don't see any damage. The question is: can this valve make a metallic clicking noise while You push the gas? I will open the other side of the turbo tomorrow in hope that it is the culprit... The car is in limp mode.
@@samstye that’s great. Your solution worked for me I wish I did it sooner Instead of wasting so much time and money the last two years with other solutions that did not work. It’s ridiculous that the vehicle OBD scan doesn’t provide a proper diagnosis for that and instead suggested so many other parts to replace. I hope this fix lasts because my turbo warranty just ended last month and I missed it. Thank you very much
@@samstye by the way my vehicle is a 2014 Benz cla45 amg and the mechanic didn't remove the turbo they just adjusted the rod that connects to the waste gate from the outside of the turbo housing. Also wanted to let people know to check your warranty documents I found out the turbo is part of the emissions warranty and is covered for 8 years or 80000 miles, but I missed it anyway. I'm in Florida.
Hi there I need to know if I can do this jobb on my Audi a5 with the same code without taking out the turbo. I have been driving the car for a month with this under bosst problem.
A,J was asking same question down below, I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
Hi there. Total stab in the dark but here goes. My audi a6 2012 tdi goes in to limp mode when I put my foot down on a hill. The glow plug warning light flashes on the dash and the speed goes down. I turn it off and back on and it's OK till it happens again. A mechanic has told me it's something to do with the turbo pressure or regulator but he's not sure what exactly. I was wondering if you may knw about this or be able to advise me or is this video about the same issue? Any help or advise would be massively appreciated 🙏 🙂
Sorry to hear that, Did you check with OBD2 scanner if ECM stored any trouble codes, that will tell you if actual glow plug is bad? and or if turbo has problems if you don't have OBD2 Scanner check with your local auto parts store in most cases they will scan it free for you and tell you codes they find.
@user-mt9jb7em3n hi. So I showed my car to a local audi specialist who done a full diagnostic test including a boost check. He found that it was a under boost fault. He checked to see if there was any other issue and there was not. So he deleted the fault and the fault code frm the computer. If there is no fault code, there is no fault. It solved my problem. Car now runs like brand new. He assured me by deleting the code it would not damage the car or engine etc on the long run or short term. Cost me 150 which included removing the remap I had and replacing it with he's own remap level 1.
Hi Sam, I have the same car, and same code, the symptom I have Is the turbo only works when the engine Is cold, once It has the normal temperature the turbo stops working. Do you think could be the wastegate also?
Most likely but only If wastegate rod is loose, also Rubber Hoses soften when hot so I would check on that as well after engine cools down 100% over night.
Hello i have a golf 5 tsi turbo compressor 140 hp when I press the accelerator the turbo loses first the air and then collects the appropriate air and gives me the boost maybe you know what cause this problem ? ? Sorry for my english
On modern cars If turbo has boosting problem you most likely would see check engine light on?, but the way you explained it I believe that's a turbo lag which is in many cases normal however it should be fairly minimal.
can i ask ? what was the problem in driving car ? time from time boost presure just drops down ? I have no active p0299 code and no check light. But when drive the car some times boost just disapear... and cant understand when it shows up again and why !? dont want to change all 3 vacum sensors to fix it.. :(
In most cases ECU will set the code only if problem appears within a specific amount of time, so I would use OBD2 scanner and look for stored codes, I know only bigger mechanic shops own expensive universal OBD2's scanners but happy medium scanner should work too in many cases.
@@ingussvikis9751if P0299 code is stored in history that probably was sticky waste gate one time or possibly still is but also intake hoses get softer when engine is hot and they can leak randomly as well depends how much pressure they get in different driving conditions and time since very small crack sometimes is not detected by ECU.
Hey sam i have a 2017 chevy cruze 1.4 turbo. I have a p0299 underboost code. I noticed that one of the big metal clamps broke. Could that cause it also or do you think its still the waste gate
@@bradconner5266 Ok if your clamp is broken after the CAT l don't think that caused under boost, however back pressure can cause problems and link them to the turbo.
I have a TATA Nexon turbo petrol getting same po299 code and it is loosing power on acceleration car is very sluggish to move also MIL is on but surprisingly at night time there is no issues I am getting fairly good boost at night also mil goes off while driving night time but I doing think it’s related with temperature because on a cold morning also car looses power but night time no issues its weird and no one is able to diagnose it properly. Help me some way.
Correct It can be related to temperature because steel expands when it's hot and contracts when it's cool, not much but can be enough to make wastegate loose slightly to under-boost, I would have local mechanic physically check wastegate after engine cools down and see if is loose or tight. Good luck, and thanks for watching
Did you have visual inspection around turbo very carefully and look for loose parts but only when engine is completely cold since sometimes problem is visible outside of the turbo.
Honestly I am not sure but If and when I do my next turbo repair I most likely will give try without removal first and if that doesn't work I will take it out, also I normally let engine cool down overnight to be completely cold and go from there.
Couple guys asked same question down below, I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already together with engine but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
I have same problem with 1.5tsi 150hp DADA wastegate rattle all the time and when I drive on act 2 cylinder mode its hear like trrrrrrrr trrrrrr... My boost pressure sometimes isn't good Service says it's normal no faults codes. Any help?
Wastegate shouldn't rattle and I wouldn't put that as normal report even if ECM didn't report under-boost issues since if wastegate is not loose enough ECM wouldn't set code but to be 100% sure you would need code from ECM or inspect it manually if you have access to it.
@@samstye thank you btw when I start cold engine it has 1100rpm by heating catalist mode wastegate rattle is so loud about 30seconds I catch wastegate rod by small spring but wastegate flap still rattles
@@dekart283 Are you certain that's coming from turbo? since sometimes air flow inside air box drawing hot air from the engine bay will make very loud rattle noise only when cold for about 30sec.
@@samstye It's from turbo, metalic sound when I catch wastegate arm and there's play on arm, rod, and electronic actuator arm see me vid my car has 33kkm and still 3yr warranty but my seller (Seat) said its normal. When I wanted to replace turbo by warranty they said "we can't its functional normally"... whatever i do myself may loose warranty sic!
Sorry Juno but I don't have one to recommend right now but I would search locally first to avoid shipping charges and also I would get 3 different estimates with OEM parts as well.
Sorry China I can't, I would check with certified local mechanic to scan the car first or local auto parts store also will scan customers cars free of charges in most cases and tell you what code you have then go from there.
What is the solution if the rivet is broken, can be replaced with another rivet or is mandatory to buy a new turbocharger ( Mazda CX5 -2.2D/150HP/2016, 125 K km). THKX
I believe mechanic with some skills can replace it but probably would be about same cost to replace whole turbo, all depends what mechanic shop charges per hour in your area.
@@georgecojocaru9015 Sorry to hear that 3200 Euro quote got to be joke lol I would definitely consider visiting couple different shops around and also ask what would they charge to rebuild it and go from there.
Couple guys asked same question down below, I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
Dude you are a god, i fixed my turbo from this video while all mechanics told me it needs new turbo , million thanks 🍻
You are welcome, I am glad it helps
@@samstye as a Christian man he’s definitely not “God”Jesus”and othergods are not real how ever amazing video bro very helpful thank you :)
@@JusZard You are welcome any time.
@@JusZard the Bible states were gods🤷♂️😂
@@jakecx259 hmmm? Idk man maybe a different Bible King James Version is what I’ve read …. But to each their own I’m just saying my opinion not trying to offend anyone .
I literally fix the same issue with it in the car The actuator that rod goes to I just bent the bracket slightly with a pry bar My car's been running without the under boost code for over a year now
Witch spot? The arm coming from the flap or the actuator rod itself?
@@wesleyhunter501 some aftermarket actuators have an adjustable rod mine did not because it's factory the actuator bracket is what I bent moving the actuator and rod which tightened the internal flap
You should be able to get in there and wiggle it to check play you don't want to bend it too much you will cause over boost
@donaldmccormick1584 play in the rod back and forth not side to side?
thank you so much. you saved my life! i got this issue
on my cla45 amg for almost 5 months.its fixed now,cheersss!
You're welcome, I am glad it helped.
Just curious.got the same code today.was u able to still drive your car for 5 months?until u fixed the problem
@@lanceanderson202 yeah but the code throw sometimes and i made it fit again and bingo ! on the road.
Thanks a ton ! Honestly, unable to trust any mechs in my place (India).. they say they have to do multi-point inspections and have to hand over the car with them for a day, I can't do that anyway, this video was really helpful !
I am glad it helps.
Most proper diagnostics will take some time . I’m sure this took him a few hours to figure out
This was great video, thanks for making this man, you saved me some $$$ ! For anyone who’s trying to do this get bigger pliers, personally think two 12 inch pliers should do to get around space constraints like shown in the video. I didn’t have two and had difficulty in wrenching them, so used a c clamp for the upper part and wrenched the bottom one, worked like a charm, did like 20 miles so far not much but plan to do more over the week, will post here once i do more miles! Thanks for the video
Good job!, I am glad it helped
Guessing dude never Mede it home 🤷🤷
Did you have to take turbo out?
AMAZING! Thank you Sam!!
You are welcome! and Thanks for watching.
Hello,
I have P029900 low boost code or turbo undercharge and it was noticeable that my car is losing power or not boosting enough. I change diverter valve and nothing. remove the catalytic converter and there was decemt amount of free play on the wastegate. I hammered it the rod in the fron kinda push it back and boost is back and this is my temporary fix till i replace the entire unit.
Disculpa que pieza es esta?
Sam, amazing video, and solution, even if its temporary. Question, what happens if you ignore the engine light, and keep driving with the P0299 code?
Car would still run and drive with under-boost which would causes to loose some power depends how bad under-boost is some drivers don't even notice anything and keep drive like that for long time but also keep in mind modern vehicles won't pass smog test if check engine light is on so automatically can't register it in many states without smog test/check. Thanks for watching I am glad you like it
@@samstye i figured....i don't notice any drop in power, or drivability. Thanks again.
@@danmazz8733 Sure any time.
@@danmazz8733 same any update??
@@HaiderAli-qn2ec i sold the car :(
Hi Sam
I have same code with 2013 Dodge Dart 1.4L. CEL came on while driving and car felt like bogging down under hard acceleration.
However in city driving it runs fine. Issue comes when running on highways especially under high rpm while overtaking.
Since you have under boost code P0299 big possibility is that wastegate is loose and not holding boost so I would check on that first but after engine cools down overnight then go from there, also sometimes but very rare boost solenoid goes bed as well.
Mine is doing the same thing when I push the car it comes back I have a 2.0 ecoboost explorer also the downshifts are pretty rough
Thanks man I will try this
You are welcome and thanks for watching.
Buenas noches una pregunta que pieza estás reparando
Yo tengo un onix turbo 2021 tengo perdida de potencia y codigo p0237 pero unos dicen que es el catalizador
Ótima dica aqui Brasil nada disso querem vender o turbo completo , só roubo aqui 😢
I am having hyundai sonata 2013 same error (p0299 turbocharger/supercharger underboost) dashboard engine light also always on, couple of times local garage try to reset code but but it come back after a day, when I ask him to checkthere might be some small issue cuz I feel car race and pickup is kinda slow, but they all say one thing just change turbo, after seeing your video I'm more sure I might have the same issue
In most cases P0299 trouble code is related to wastegate issue, but also to be on safe side maybe same garage can take look if is wastegate loose or not after engine cools down. Thanks for watching
@@samstye I'll keep that in mind, thanks alot for making me understand better and in details
@@arsalan5426 You're welcome,
C clip. Not lock washer. Good video !
That's Correct lol and thanks for watching.
It’s actually an E clip
Hi there, great video, I’m having issue with my car, I wonder if can help me out. My fault code is p2598 and the car slows down, it says turbo vane performance low. Thanks
Kusan
What's the car year and make?
Sam i have same code but car also trows bad caltalityc converter p0420 and p0299 code...only happend on hill at 4000rpm=> ...changed plugs coils and still same issue...its 1.8tsi gen 3 2014 model year...i turn off thr car and code is gone till full gas on hill on 3 4 gear and epc light is on again...
Since you mentioned that EPC lights keeps coming back on basing on that I would have mechanic check oxygen sensors first after engine cools down 100% over night then go from there.
What an idea, Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Is it worth it to change the whole turbo out for for an aftermarket setup? Something that is more reliable?
If car warranty is expired already and aftermarket turbo matches specs and quality I don't see why not since that's external part if goes bad replace it again, but I wouldn't prefer aftermarket parts.
@@samstye thank you for that information. I’m getting a p0299 code, and the 2 repair shops I’ve gone to have insisted on the idea of a bad turbo (only one has looked at it, and they’re a gas station general service and maintenance shop). The quotes they’ve given me are absurd, and both of them have actually gone up from one day to the next despite nothing changing from 1800 for a full install to 2300, 2400, 2600. I can see plainly that aftermarket kits, even OEM kits, costing a maximum of $1200, and the standard job time is 4.5-6 hours. The car runs butter smooth, just doesn’t have much power and the CEL is on. I don’t feel the diagnosis is right, or at the very least doesn’t require a brand new turbo, but what do I know LOL.
@@Sss-vs7pu In that case I would probably consider OEM Refurbished one since they are much cheaper and still OEM.
There is any way I can call you?? I have the same issue with my 2009 Volkswagen tiguan Turbo/supercharger P0299 if you can fix for me , just need address and phone number, also price
@@joelngandu9571 Sorry Joel but I am kinda too busy right now, but I think it would be cheaper for you to search locally first.
I have this code and I need to fix mine so wish me luck
Best of luck to you! and Thanks for watching
Are you able to do this with the turbo still in the car?
I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
So for my understanding; you are bending the axle which goes through the turbo? In other words; are you "closing" the room for play by bending it a little bit?
More like kinda twisting the rod or pin just enough to close gate slightly tighter that's all.
@@samstye Ah ok. So this is a way to fix it when you dont have an adjustable rod on your wastegate actuator? Because I can adjust mine on my Audi Q5. So I can just tighten it a little bit to achieve the same result right?
@@Sjoerd001 You got it!
@@samstye So how do you make sure you don't get the overboost you mentioned?
The way I did it is by twisting it just enough to close the gate snug and I also made sure it opens/closes freely without delays didn't need any additional tension on the wastegate rad or pre-pull all it needs is to close lightly that's all, @@Frostensen
very nice video
Thanks
what could be the problem bmw x5 e70 m57y 35d twin turbo there was error 4530 for high boost pressure, and after removing the particulate filter, egr, ad blue, and swirl flaps, another error appeared P0299 for low boost pressure and now both errors
What's mileages on it?
@@samstye on the speedometer there are 220 thousand kilometers, and the real one is 280 thousand, but the engine was already changed in my presence and on the second engine it was 177 thousand, and now it’s somewhere around 200, they changed the engine because the master changed the nozzles and after replacing the nozzles they didn’t put wires on the fuel rail , they didn’t think the pressure in the fuel rail and the quick start sprayed into the intake and water hammer, the starter jammed, the connecting rod bent, the lock broke! But error 4530 was temporary at a speed of 150-160 km and now also P0299 although there is no backlash in the turbines everything seems to work well the vacuum works
@@roman_9307 At this mileages can be couple different things but I would check charge pipe from turbo output to the throttle valve connection tube for cracks, also pneumatic valve gets sometimes rarely stuck and not letting air flow trough in between two turbos if your car has one, or waste gate flapper is sticky or loose, I would start from small things first
@@samstye replaced the vacuum hoses, they were cracked, replaced the red pipe from the turbine to the intercooler as the latch was broken and there was a cut on the pipe and replaced the solenoid valve!
Could it be a problem with the air flow sensor? it was already changed before me in 2017.
the fact is that I have 2 controlled valves on the turbine and I checked the vacuum with the engine running, one holds the vacuum and the second does not, but I don’t know how they work correctly.
but no one wants to look for the cause in the service, they say it’s easier to completely remove the turbines and restore them, they also say that this error may be due to the wastegate, but it seems to me everything is ok with him.
@@roman_9307 There is 0.25" diameter metal rad connected to the waste gate flapper which should be snug not loose I usually wait after engine cools down over night then check since that's constant dangerously red hut area I prefer to have mechanic check.
Can you do this method with the turbo still installed , I have the cat off and the waste gate thing is visible???
You should be able to as long you have ability to hold both ends sturdy and just enough clearance to twist flapper pin very little and gently.
@@samstye I removed the entire assembly , and did the exact same thing you did it’s tight for now is there like a range of mileage I will get before it fails again?
@@6hunnitCCsan it really depends on driving habit but the one you see on this video drove already about 40k miles and still runs with no problems or check engine light.
Could this fix my 2014 chevy cruze?
Depends what you have but possibly!
I want to know when you start the engine, in which position the westgate goes, open or closed
In most cases Cold start opens WG for very short time to help heat up cats.
Wait please answer this. The washer you took off so that the waste gate opened, is that supposed to be on there? From my understanding you had the washer on and the waste gate was closed although it was moving still and it wasn't supposed too correct? So if i have a washer on and the waste gate is closed and doesn't move is that a good sign? Im just confused because how would it be able to open when it needs to if the washer is on
The washer is there only to prevent actuator rod from falling off the wastegate spindle, The actuator is the one which opens and closes wastegate. I hope that clears confusion little bit. Thanks for watching!
I have a movano 2010 and I get P0299 only about 80km/h or above on a steep hill/under load. The car is still running fine and it sounds completely normal. I clear the code with my OBD scanner and then it can run fine for days without it coming back on. As soon as I put the van under heavier load, the code comes back. What could it possibly be?
Seems like wastegate issue just started, I would have local mechanic take look if wastegate rod is loose before anything else but keep in mind that engine needs to be completely cold because that area at and around turbo is constantly red hot, in most cases mechanic wont even charge you since that takes only like 1min of his time. Thanks for watching
@@samstye what to do if the waste gate rod is loose? Thank you for your reply
@@JimOnFoot We can only guess from here, but friendly Mechanic would tell you quick fix because it depends how bad it's. if that really is problem but it would be my starting point to check.
@@samstye So back from the mechanic, but he don't know for sure what it is. The hose going from the turbo to the intercooler is collapsing when you rev the engine. I've checked all the hoses and there is no blockage. What do you think it could be?
@@JimOnFoot Did you check air filter?, I don't think that turbo stopped spinning if so you would notice big different in power so most likely air restriction somewhere, air box is good place to check.
👌👌
good
Hi Sam, I've got Seat Ibiza 1.6TDI 2011 with turbo under boost. I checked one side of the turbo where the turbine is and it spins all right and I don't see any damage. The question is: can this valve make a metallic clicking noise while You push the gas? I will open the other side of the turbo tomorrow in hope that it is the culprit... The car is in limp mode.
Loose wastegate can make noise but wouldn't be noticeable as much and also in most cases would under boost as well.
Is this a temporary fix? How long does it last? Thanks
Depends on driving habit but the one you see on this video drove already over 45k miles and still runs with no problems at least yet.
@@samstye that’s great. Your solution worked for me I wish I did it sooner Instead of wasting so much time and money the last two years with other solutions that did not work. It’s ridiculous that the vehicle OBD scan doesn’t provide a proper diagnosis for that and instead suggested so many other parts to replace. I hope this fix lasts because my turbo warranty just ended last month and I missed it. Thank you very much
@@nm85418 I am glad it helped. Thanks for watching
@@samstye by the way my vehicle is a 2014 Benz cla45 amg and the mechanic didn't remove the turbo they just adjusted the rod that connects to the waste gate from the outside of the turbo housing. Also wanted to let people know to check your warranty documents I found out the turbo is part of the emissions warranty and is covered for 8 years or 80000 miles, but I missed it anyway. I'm in Florida.
@@nm85418 AMG is very nice ride!
P0234 yüksek basınç hatası alıyorum neden olabilir
I have this problem with my car how de rix my car..??
Thank you
Sure any time.
Hi there
I need to know if I can do this jobb on my Audi a5 with the same code without taking out the turbo. I have been driving the car for a month with this under bosst problem.
A,J was asking same question down below,
I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
Hi there. Total stab in the dark but here goes.
My audi a6 2012 tdi goes in to limp mode when I put my foot down on a hill. The glow plug warning light flashes on the dash and the speed goes down. I turn it off and back on and it's OK till it happens again. A mechanic has told me it's something to do with the turbo pressure or regulator but he's not sure what exactly. I was wondering if you may knw about this or be able to advise me or is this video about the same issue? Any help or advise would be massively appreciated 🙏 🙂
Sorry to hear that,
Did you check with OBD2 scanner if ECM stored any trouble codes, that will tell you if actual glow plug is bad? and or if turbo has problems if you don't have OBD2 Scanner check with your local auto parts store in most cases they will scan it free for you and tell you codes they find.
Hello, i have the same problem as you! Can you share how you fixed it?
@user-mt9jb7em3n hi. So I showed my car to a local audi specialist who done a full diagnostic test including a boost check. He found that it was a under boost fault. He checked to see if there was any other issue and there was not. So he deleted the fault and the fault code frm the computer. If there is no fault code, there is no fault. It solved my problem. Car now runs like brand new. He assured me by deleting the code it would not damage the car or engine etc on the long run or short term. Cost me 150 which included removing the remap I had and replacing it with he's own remap level 1.
@@mampy786 Thank you for your help. Be healthy.
Hi Sam, I have the same car, and same code, the symptom I have Is the turbo only works when the engine Is cold, once It has the normal temperature the turbo stops working. Do you think could be the wastegate also?
Most likely but only If wastegate rod is loose, also Rubber Hoses soften when hot so I would check on that as well after engine cools down 100% over night.
@@samstye I Will do It! Thank you a lot!
Is that what makes a whistleing noise ?
No I don't believe it does at least not as noticable.
Hello i have a golf 5 tsi turbo compressor 140 hp when I press the accelerator the turbo loses first the air and then collects the appropriate air and gives me the boost maybe you know what cause this problem ? ? Sorry for my english
On modern cars If turbo has boosting problem you most likely would see check engine light on?, but the way you explained it I believe that's a turbo lag which is in many cases normal however it should be fairly minimal.
can i ask ? what was the problem in driving car ? time from time boost presure just drops down ? I have no active p0299 code and no check light. But when drive the car some times boost just disapear... and cant understand when it shows up again and why !? dont want to change all 3 vacum sensors to fix it.. :(
In most cases ECU will set the code only if problem appears within a specific amount of time, so I would use OBD2 scanner and look for stored codes, I know only bigger mechanic shops own expensive universal OBD2's scanners but happy medium scanner should work too in many cases.
@@samstyewell thank you. How i was told i have no active p0299, but it is stored in history.
@@ingussvikis9751if P0299 code is stored in history that probably was sticky waste gate one time or possibly still is but also intake hoses get softer when engine is hot and they can leak randomly as well depends how much pressure they get in different driving conditions and time since very small crack sometimes is not detected by ECU.
Thank u a lot !
in my car it is not moving, can not understand why
Did you mean Turbo Gate is not opening and closing?
Hey sam i have a 2017 chevy cruze 1.4 turbo. I have a p0299 underboost code. I noticed that one of the big metal clamps broke. Could that cause it also or do you think its still the waste gate
Brad!
What clamps you are referring to can you provide a little more detail possibly.
@@samstye it's a big metal clamp that goes around where the turbo connects to the exhaust and has a bolt that tightens it.
I think it's called like a v channel clamp. It's heavy gadgets metal
@@bradconner5266 Ok if your clamp is broken after the CAT l don't think that caused under boost, however back pressure can cause problems and link them to the turbo.
thxs man
Sure any time.
I have a TATA Nexon turbo petrol getting same po299 code and it is loosing power on acceleration car is very sluggish to move also MIL is on but surprisingly at night time there is no issues I am getting fairly good boost at night also mil goes off while driving night time but I doing think it’s related with temperature because on a cold morning also car looses power but night time no issues its weird and no one is able to diagnose it properly. Help me some way.
Correct It can be related to temperature because steel expands when it's hot and contracts when it's cool, not much but can be enough to make wastegate loose slightly to under-boost, I would have local mechanic physically check wastegate after engine cools down and see if is loose or tight. Good luck, and thanks for watching
Can a blocked dpf results this code
Different code would appear at that point and most likely engine would be overheating as well.
Hello, I have a Toyota Yaris 2010 diesel 1.4 I have the fault code p0299
Did you have visual inspection around turbo very carefully and look for loose parts but only when engine is completely cold since sometimes problem is visible outside of the turbo.
Waste gate valve?
So I have to take turbo out?
Honestly I am not sure but If and when I do my next turbo repair I most likely will give try without removal first and if that doesn't work I will take it out, also I normally let engine cool down overnight to be completely cold and go from there.
@@samstye 👍🏻
Do i need to remove ot to be able to fix it?
Couple guys asked same question down below,
I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already together with engine but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
Im having this problem in my 2015 C300 same code and everything
Should be simple fix!!. Thanks for watching
I need your help where can I contact you?
I have same problem with 1.5tsi 150hp DADA wastegate rattle all the time and when I drive on act 2 cylinder mode its hear like trrrrrrrr trrrrrr... My boost pressure sometimes isn't good Service says it's normal no faults codes. Any help?
Wastegate shouldn't rattle and I wouldn't put that as normal report even if ECM didn't report under-boost issues since if wastegate is not loose enough ECM wouldn't set code but to be 100% sure you would need code from ECM or inspect it manually if you have access to it.
@@samstye thank you btw when I start cold engine it has 1100rpm by heating catalist mode wastegate rattle is so loud about 30seconds I catch wastegate rod by small spring but wastegate flap still rattles
@@dekart283 Are you certain that's coming from turbo? since sometimes air flow inside air box drawing hot air from the engine bay will make very loud rattle noise only when cold for about 30sec.
@@samstye It's from turbo, metalic sound when I catch wastegate arm and there's play on arm, rod, and electronic actuator arm see me vid my car has 33kkm and still 3yr warranty but my seller (Seat) said its normal. When I wanted to replace turbo by warranty they said "we can't its functional normally"... whatever i do myself may loose warranty sic!
@@dekart283Oh, In that case I would wait for check engine light and let them deal with it. Best of luck to you
I have code turbo overboost P0234 ?
Sounds like wastegate problem.
Which car its is?
Audi A4 Quattro.
👍
Can you recommend a good mechanic to rebuild 2016 Sprinter V6 engine with 670K miles?
Sorry Juno but I don't have one to recommend right now but I would search locally first to avoid shipping charges and also I would get 3 different estimates with OEM parts as well.
Van kronenburg in geldrop
@@samstye Thanks. I decided to go with new engine by MB.
@@junocheyennekrakus5004 Best of luck to you Juno and thanks for sharing that with us.
Jesus christ, 670k legit miles?
How is it working now?
Still runs like new.
where are you located can you fix mines
Sorry China I can't, I would check with certified local mechanic to scan the car first or local auto parts store also will scan customers cars free of charges in most cases and tell you what code you have then go from there.
What is the solution if the rivet is broken, can be replaced with another rivet or is mandatory to buy a new turbocharger ( Mazda CX5 -2.2D/150HP/2016, 125 K km). THKX
I believe mechanic with some skills can replace it but probably would be about same cost to replace whole turbo, all depends what mechanic shop charges per hour in your area.
@@samstye 3200 Euro total expenses turbocharger replacement, .... the most expensive rivet. 😭
@@georgecojocaru9015 Sorry to hear that 3200 Euro quote got to be joke lol I would definitely consider visiting couple different shops around and also ask what would they charge to rebuild it and go from there.
@@samstye Mazda dealer - showroom and workshop. Good but very expensive rivet or joke...
Im getting this code and I have a new turbo fitted. Wtf?
Let's hope that ECM didn't clear code yet?
Or Possibly defective turbo if not OEM?
Or Something wasn't done correctly if OEM?
Can you add cement hard glue were its moving and have it sold tight ? You think that might work ?
Honestly I say no since that can damage your engine very easily!
has the code came back?
No not yet after about 10K miles.
Can you do this fix without removing the turbo?
Couple guys asked same question down below,
I guess that's possible with some struggle, as you see I was rebuilding this whole engine and had it out already but if I ever end up repairing only waste gate on the turbo I definitely would try while is still in the car since I would have to go trough same process to take it out any way.
What vehicle
Audi A4.
C clip
🤔... "why not just put a heavy duty piece of rubber in between to seal the leak?"
Amigo siempre es mejor hacer bien el trabajo de manera profesional....
I wañt contact you