Simple way to test turbo wastegate operation in 1.6HDi (Peugeot, Citroen, Ford, Volvo, Mini)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ย. 2019
- If you get underboost or overboost or cannot feel the turbo working, here is how to test a small part of the turbo, i.e the wastegate.
The wastegate on the 1.6HDi turbo (non variable geometry type) is there to relieve pressure when the turbo gets spinning above a certain point and/or generates boost above certain threshold. The wastegate in 1.6HDi engines (non variable geometry type, 90bhp) is generally in the opened position (engine off). Once the engine start running the vacuum pump creates vacuum and through the turbo boost solenoid pulls the diaphragm in the wastegate, which in turn pulls the rod to the actual wastegate inside the turbo. Therefore, the wastegate gets closed and the turbo starts spinning.
There are several scenarios where the wastegate can cause underboost or overboost and these are covered in the video.
The video shown has the following part numbers:
TD025S2-06T4
P/N 9682881380
S/N 078253120
MHI 49173-07506
If you find this video useful, buy me a coffee: www.paypal.com/paypalme/morem...
#HDi #TurboFailure #HDiTurbo
Disclaimer: Use the information provided in this video at Your Own Risk. More molecules provides this video for informational purposes only and assumes no liability for any damage or loss incurred as a result of the use of the information or tools presented in this video. The information provided here may contain inaccuracies and more molecules cannot guarantee the correctness or reliability of the content. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Excellent video, so helpful, I had no boost. At the end where you said the actuator should move on start up, mine didnt, fitted new actuator, I now have full turbo boost again on my vwt4. Thank you dude.
Nice one :-)
Hi mate mine is opening but when I drive the wastgate isint opening can u tell me y please
Your channel is such a useful one for me. I have learned such a lot about my car (the exact model and year you have) so thank you very much.
Your videos are well fimed, easy to understand and cover some excellent topics. Please don't stop. I want another 100,000 miles out of my car. 🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha, thank you very much indeed Stefan, your comment made my day! I also want another 100k out of my car and hopefully will achieve that. Many thanks again for the good words, really appreciated.
By far the best video on this topic I have come across..... 👍
Thank you, means a lot!
Hi thanks for your video.. Can you please explain me What Happens When Vastgate Won't Move by Your Hand? I got vauxhall insignia 1.6 cdti 2016 with code underbost and overboost, and my turbo vastgate doesn't move by my hands..
Thanks for posting this.Very clear and useful video. 😎
Excellent video so clear and easy to understand 👍
Thank you for all your videos, very helpful
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank You for your time to fully explain
this video was extremely helpful... 😉👍
Well done and very helpful.
Great simple video well explained thank you
Very good video. You’d be surprised as to how many nonsense videos are on TH-cam regarding cars. Most people don’t even know what they’re talking about, they just talk gibberish to sound scholarly or “smart”. But this is a simple, very good video
Thank you Patrick, much appreciated, trying my best.
Very well explained and illustrated, thank you.
Great video with useful information
Excellent explanation bro. God bless. 👍👍
Great video so easy to follow
Excellent my friend very insightful thanks 🙏
Good video, this will help people, well done.
Love your videos you very good knowledge
Very usefull to check the turbo
Thank you mate, solved issues with your video. peugeot 1.6hdi 90cv 308
Glad it has helped, what was the issue?
@@moremolecules The turbo rod was stuck and the car lost power, reached 3,000 rotations appeared an error saying problem in the anti-pollution system
@@thinkaboutit7443 Thank you for the reply. Yes, most of the air-related problems will be reported as anti-pollution errors, just the ECU sees that there is either too much air or too little air and the exhaust emission might be different than normal, hence the anit-pollution errors which is a bit misleading.
Very useful vid, thanks 👍
You really like that one word "really" 😀
Haha, guilty as charged :-)
Thank you Thank you Thank you!
I have 308 1.6 turbo suffering from over pressure & blowing off the inlet. Thank you for identifying the waste gate & taking the mystery out of it. At least now I have somewhere to start fault finding.
Hi Jeff, have a look at a few of the comments on the same video, there was the same situation with another person. When you say over pressure, I suspect you mean over boost? If that is the case, most likely the turbo solenoid is faulty and cannot divert the pressure when it is too much.
Very good video! Thank you
Your a diamond, thank you!
Thank you very helpful
Good video.
Mein Englisch ist nicht gut aber ich verstehe vieles was du erklärst wie du es erklärst cooles Video
Vielen Dank für den kommentar, sehr geschätzt!
Newly subcribed My turbo on way out on my 208 hdi 1.6 stage 1 remapped .. is ther any recommendations on up grade plz
Thanks
Super video
THANK YOU!
Many Thanks!!
big help
Hi should a turbo solenoid on a Renault trafic rattle when you shake it
What's up Molecules are you a mechanic? Your knowledge it top! Thanks for sharing 🙏
Haha, no, no mechanic at all. My day job is nothing to do with cars and/or engineering. I'm just a hobby mechanic, but I spend considerable amount of research before I do something on my car. Many thanks again!
@@moremolecules very very inspiring. I think you are the best content creator for 1.6 HDi engines. Keep up the good work
💪😊
Hi, I got 2.0 dti astra with strange problem. I have checked and replaced all hoses, vacuum pump and cleaned everything. Rod is moving ok by the hand or opcom test. Whenever the weather is cold I got almost small boost till I floor it and then it gradually starts to boost early. If you turn off then on car it boosts normal.In hotter weather, more then 15c I have 0 boost problems. My mechanic and me are out of ideas.tnx
I performed this test on my actuator and it holds pressure. But I have no boost at all and the garage have said it is the actuator that needs to be changed.
I told them I performed this test and it works, but they said I need to change it anyway!?
Are they correct?
My car comes up with a p0234 fault and has had a new turbo fitted I shall be testing the waste gate later but my mechanic has said that I am losing vacuum, what could be the issue with losing vacuum as my mechanic doesn't seem to know why I'm losing it.
Thank you for this video.... I need your expert advice.... Recently I bought a 2007 Peugeot 207 CC 150 PS 1.6 HDi, pretty in a good condition... but I just got the engine check light on... I used the scanner to see what happen, the result: I got P0299 code indicates that the Turbo or Supercharger fails... can you give me an idea, how may I fix the issue? Thanks
Hi Fernando, I am hardly an expert, but codes like this can mean a lot of things. It could mean that you get underboost or the turbo for whatever reason is not delivering the required boost. I would check all the vacuum lines to the turbo and check the operation of the wastegate, e.g. if the wastegate can keep vacuum. Is this 150 bhp? A lot from the 1.6hdi. If it is the 110bhp it will have the variable geometry turbo probably, so they could be stuck as well. Do you get boost when you are traveling?
Thank you very much !I have volvo v50 2.0d with HDI 136 engine,i have problems from time to time...the car enters in Limp mode and i must restart the engine to run again back to normal...i have changed my intercooler and my hose turbo pipe...but not curred the problems still,i plan to test the turbo actuator soon as you showed in you video.Also my turbo overboost when this happens.
Not too sure about the 2L HDi, but there is a turbo solenoid at the back of the engine. It could be the wastegate or the turbo solenoid.
@@moremolecules The solenoid works well,i think maybe could be the wastgate..because i bought this car 3 month ago and in the first week i have found the vacuum hose broken with leak from the wastgate...so this wastgate was not working at all maybe 1 year,maybe gets sticky sometimes,i tried spray with WD40 and i plan to buy Turbo Cleaner Spray to clean the geometry of the turbo itself.
@@inseCT320i You could potentially replace the whole wastegate with a new one. It should not be too expensive.
@@moremolecules Heard that in my particular case,the wastgate on Volvo v50 2.0d 136hp is togheter seled with the turbo,you cant buy one or other... :(
My Berlingo waste gate is very stiff. Will not move untill high revs. Therefore is producing under lost but if I drive hard overboost occurs producing a tripped engine warning and limp mode. Cleared using streetwise can bus reader. More work to be done.
It should be rather easy to move the rod on the wastegate. The spring is not that tight. It could be dirt or something holding it back. Wastegates are fairly cheap and easy to replace, if it is the wastegate in fault of course.
Best video !...thx ...i have 1.5 dci and its stuck and no power over 1.500 rpm and when i accelerate i hear a lot of blow off sound and no power.
I am not too familiar with the 1.5dci, but it could be a turbo solenoid/wastegate or if you hear whooshing sounds potentially an air leak somewhere.
Thx for video. I must change my actuator. Is there a procedure to tune position of actuator ?
There you go: th-cam.com/video/v7Ql881Q6X8/w-d-xo.html
@@moremolecules Great ! Thx
Hi I have Peugeot 3008 2011. It did some test to my turbo charger i found that no vacuum coming in to the actuator. my questions are: 1) does the actuator close the wast gate on startup only?, 2) I see that vacuum pump is working. what should I test aim to define where the problem coming from. thanks
Apologies for the late reply. I am not too sure about the 2011 model, it may be a bit different. The wastegate actuator closes the wastegate on startup. Well, actually it is the other way around, it closes the turbo opening in the exhaust part. It is a fail-safe mechanism. So, if there is not vacuum there will be not turbo, the exhaust gasses will just pass through the exhaust rather than turn the turbo turbine. I hope it makes sense.
Hi
Im getting no vacuum at the end of the pipe that attaches to the wastegate actuator, ive changed the unit located at the rear of the engine and still no vacuum, there is 14v going to the sitch, could it be a broken or clogged up pipe ?
Thanks in advance
It could be the vacuum pump that is faulty, but that is a bit rare event. Do you mena the turbo solenoid at the back of the engine? THere are several pipes going in/out, make sure they are connected correctly.
Very helpful video. I heve oil coming up from the waistgate what could be the problem. ( eBay turbo).
Ahh, not too sure, but there is something wrong in there. I would suggest wipe it all clean and see where it is coming from.
Up date on my findings on the problem i had / have : air flow intake hose pipe after market! the small pipe that runs to the crank case,would would vacuum shut at 3000rpm by chance i spotted the pipe comprising shut so i have 2 aluminum 40° cuts pipe inside the small pipe to keer it from collapsing shut.
Just a head's up on what my findings on the problem was i had. Much appreciate you video content.!
@@catharinacarroll7908 Well done for tracing it back to the culprit 🙂
pls help! I had overboost for a whileee and didn't know... car was chiptuned so i thoight that it was ok to get so much power... but what actualy happened that after air filter change in workshop they *forgot to put back* small hose behind the filter where other side is connected to turbo vacuum solenoid, which ofc got stuck bcs sucking unfiltred air.. solenoid is changed with new oem but wastgate was not working for quite time bcs that solenoid and turbo overbust was present. Now when i start the engine rod moves like in video but doeant move at all when i rev. During whole that time i 1St noticed accelaration was not so great any more and during the time power was lost! now my car is piece of crap without power... could turbo be damaged bcs long period od overboost condition? I also hear whistle noise,turbo on some intercooler pipe split? Via obd2 i get map reading not greater that 1.3bar bit i found info tat pressure was like 2.5bar when overboost DTC was trigered. Is it possible that turbo got damaged so it doesn't compress ait to manifold good enough ? If there is not enough pressure ECU doesn't operate solenoid so that's why there is also no any rod move when i rev the engine? Or there is air loss on pipes arround intercooler so i lose pressure ... or maybe intercooler it self is damaged with some hole ? pls any suggestion bcs i have this problem for quite time now and i need normal car... i have feel like i'm driving Yugo koral 45 again and not tdci/hdi chiptuned to 115hp
Hi milek,
It is difficult to say like this without going there and testing or looking at the actual parameters measured from the ECU. If there are whistling sounds that were not there before, definitely look from cracked pipes. Why not take the intercooler and fill it with water to see if there are any holes. When they put the filtered pipe to the turbo solenoid is it actually connected? The wastegate rod would not move under free revving. You would need to move in order for the rod to move. Also, when you start the rod contracts to nearly maximum, wastegate closed, so turbo is spinning, it is a failsafe mechanism. In other words, if the wastegate fails or vacuum fails, the turbo does not get activated at all. So, you currently get overboost and little power? The two do not quite get together.
THe turbo could be damaged, but rather difficult to know what is damaged, if you move the turbo shaft and there is little lateral and axial movement and the propellers are OK, then the turbo should be ok.
I’ve got P0299 underboost condition on my Ford Focus 2 1.6 TDCI 2007. I have fitted an electronic boost gauge to the intake, I read 0.2 bar when driving, it’s really slow acceleration. I changed 2 vaccum solenoids, no luck. I then had my friend hold down that rod with a screwdrive and I rev’d the engine to 3000 RPM and it did 1 bar while idle! I then bypassed the vacuum solenoid and put a vacuum hose straight from the vacuum pump to the turbo actuator (so the diaphragm holds vacuum) and while driving I get 1.7 bar on the gauge. Could the wiring to the vacuum solenoid be shorted and the solenoid obviously doesn’t? Do I get any error when the wiring harness is not connected to the solenoid? Thanks a lot!
Hi Alexander, you have covered most things, but if you bypass the solenoid and you get boost, it seems the fault is somewhere between the solenoid and the wastegate. You could perhaps be loosing vacumm (e.g. split vacuum line) from the solenoid to the wastegate. I would check the vacuum lines for any loss of vacuum.I do not think you will get an error if the solenoid is disconnected. This is somewhat similar to getting stuck solenoid, no error is reported with this.
Apologies, forgot to say that the fault may be between the solenoid and the wastegate, but this includes the solenoid, so it could be that wires are not that well with the solenoid. If you can test the solenoid outside and it is alright, then I would see if vacuum goes to the solenoid.
For P2562 on Peugeot, issue is the solénoïd.
Thank you for the comment and the P2562 resolution, good to know.
And what if rod is moving but not fast like yours than slowly like mine, when I start the engine?
Could it be problem with sticky cloged vaccum valve?
It could be slightly sticky or your engine generates vacuum a bit slower.
Hello!I ve had too much boost p1517 code error changed the turbo wastegate now I have p1507 turbo pressure too low -20 power boost in turbo and after certain times in 5 th 3000 RPM i have reduced power engine..what should i do?
Yeah, not too sure about this p1517. Overboost would typically be the turbo solenoid at the back of the engine. It could still be the turbo solenoid, getting stuck.
I have a 1.5 TDCI the car makes a very soft and subtle turbo whistle, not a whine though at around 2k to 3k RPM. Nothing audible during driving. If I stop the car and give it some gas I can see a smooth mild whistle. No powerloss, no smoke, as such. Wanted to get your thoughts
Hi Vijay, all turbos when they spool up they whistle, but you should not really hear it. Depends on the design of the air pipes. Most "street racers" are looking for this effect, but on standard cars manufacturers try to minimise the noise, so the air pipes hide the noise. Check if there is a hose unclipped from somewhere or something uncplipped from somewhere. Not too sure about the 1.5TDCi, is it really 1.5 and not the 1.6? It could a design, but it is rare with standard cars.
@@moremolecules Thank you. Here in India we have the 1.4 (discontinued). Currently present the 1.5 derived from the 1.6. All piping are good visually, no stone chipping on the intercooler too, for the most part, all pipes are chuff, no leaks on the charge side, inspected that one along, but this mild whistle though addictive, just gives me the bugs at times of a possible failure of something.
@@vijayam1 You could open the air intake to the turbo and check if the turbo propeller is not moving too much, for a piece of mind. Do you know if other 1.5 TDCi make the same noise, it could be a feature.
@@moremolecules No play on the shaft either when I last checked. I will check once again, thank you.
@@vijayam1 It could be a design of the engine, I am not quite familiar what the differences are between the 1.5 and 1.6. You have checked pretty much everything, so it should be alright. How many miles if the engine?
Hi more molecules. I want to replace the vacuum line from wastegate to solenoid. Do you have any idea of the correct vacuum line size as in internal diameter of line and length required? Many thanks
Hi there, unfortunately I do not really know the correct vacuum sizes. I suspect it is a generic vacuum line and you can cut it to size.
@@moremolecules thank you.
Can i please ask..
My waste gate on 2022 1.5 tdi is when you pus it gets stuck down, and doesnt come up as you shown on video, it throws lot of faults on the diagbox. Can you help please
Now that is way newer than mine, so operation will be different and it is likely to be different type of turbo. So, I would not expect the rod to operate the same way. Also, TDi, that's like VW sort of car, maybe it is TDCi. WHat kind of errors or symptoms you get?
I keep getting check engine, I didn't use the electronic diagnostic yet... Could this cause the check engien light ? Or It's the EGR, sometimes I hear the EGR opening and closing several times after the engine stop and sometimes I can't only a high pich hiss.
What are the signs of a stuck waste gate ? Power loss, smoke, weird turbo sound ? I have the same engine on my Ford Focus 2.
BTW you forgot to insert the vacuum hose back in.
Haha, thanks, I am investigating my turbo in general as I am somewhat suspicious about it and left the vacuum hose off to drive test it with no vacuum. It is better to plug it in a diagnostic equipment and see what is reported, otherwise it is just a guess. The hiss is rather abnormal, but it could be a a lot of things though. Stuck wastegate if stuck on open it will be loss of power, if stuck on closed overboost and most likely limp mode. If it is stuck opened, then there would not be any turbo, so one could feel the loss of power, but there will not be smoke.
@@moremolecules On my Mazda 3 1.6Di I get 1.5bar boost peaks on 2nd gear and takes a while before it goes back down to 1.2bar, could this mean it's not working properly or is it normal?
@@TheFPSPower That is a bit on the low side. I get ~2-2.1bar of turbo pressure and this is not the max. Check the wastegate and if any of the vacuum hoses have any holes anywhere. The other things is the solenoid could be somewhat faulty.
@@moremolecules the 1.2bar is normal, but today the car went into safe mode and the only error it has is a glowplug failure... Such is my luck ...
@@TheFPSPower Tough job the glowplugs, but not really impossible, access is the key and take it slow. Good luck
I have too much boost and tested the vacuüm like you demonstrated. The actuator lever comes back when I hold my finger on the hole but when I release the finger, air is sucked in. So now I wonder if the wastegate should be replaced or not. It's a 2.0 HDI engine.
Too much boost is most likely due to the turbo solenoid at the back of the engine, kind of rear left if you look at the engine from top. Most likely it is stuck and gives you constant vacuum to the turbo wastegate. It is cheap to buy, but a bit difficult to replace, as it is kind of stuck in the back
@@moremolecules thank you very much. The problem occurs only on vacations abroad, when we go 130 or more km/h.
I tried to take off the connection to the actuator and even that is quite impossible!
I"l defenitely work on it soon!
@@moremolecules Job done! Took several hours to disconnect solenoid because the second bolt was as good as impossible to reach. Dropt my tool so needed to buy another one. After finally loostening it found out that there was a similar solenoid left of this one 😬 which was much easier to disconnect, the more so because the second bolt was missing.
Reminding myself of what you wrote, 'left', I changed that one. But not before I started the engine with the harness off and got P0234 again.
Now I hope that it'll be fine on the highway!
Thanks bro! Wouldn't have managed without your directions!
@@Johannes_Brahms65 Well done! Hope it will be fine on the motorway/highway
I do have fiesta 2010 1.4tdci 68hp. Its same engine almost but 1.4 instead. Does anybody know is it the same thing with 1.4? I have feeling that actuator faulty as well but it seems that it has to move oposite direction than in video. Any ideas????
Hi Audrius, the movement is specific to the 1.6HDi, but it could well be the opposite direction in the 1.4tdci. I am not too familiar with the 1.4, but the direction is not that important, as long as it moves and holds vacuum.
@@moremolecules i was trying to put finger on solenoid/actuator pipe, I applied pressure to it using syringe. It seems that actuator does not hold pressure like in your video. Already ordered new actuator. will see. Thank you for your video so much you gave great idea what to try!
@@audriusgedmintas9812 In any case the wastegate should hold vacuum, try with new wastegate and see if makes a difference.
Hello, I'm seeking assistance with my BMW N55 engine, which is experiencing wastegate issues. Initially, the engine runs smoothly upon start-up. However, upon connecting an in/Hg gauge to the wastegate, it reads 5 in/Hg. Surprisingly, at idle around 700 RPM, the gauge jumps to 11 in/Hg. Any guidance on resolving this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the BMW N55, so difficult to help. Sorry.
Could you add a bov (blow off valve) to this turbo?
Probably, but I have not seen one.
Mine is pulled as soon as i sart the car and stays pulled even when i rev the engine up and the turbo spins up! It don’t move back to closed until i turn the car off and engine stops , is this normal?
Sounds about right. The movement is fairly small amount and only under load, not while revving it. The engine is relatively clever not to pull the turbo from just revving it. If somehow you manage to observe while driving, then you would see the movement, under load that is.
Hi when the car is on a stand still and when u rev it should the wastgate open and close
The turbo does not operate on idle, but on stands and the car in gear it should move.
Useful info! thank you, I have a turbo leak and oil goes onto the actuator it means the turbo seals are not working correctly, 3rpm boost is approx 1,2 bar. Turbo's dead.
Yeah, 1.2 bars is nothing for 3,000rpm.
@@moremolecules 407 is going quite fine but leaves too much black smoke when accelerating, love this engine cause its very economical and Im going to fix it.Do you know the proper boost of this Garrett 1544V?
@@pawelcitak83 Yes, it is extremely economical. I have another car, Peugeot 307, 1.6 petrol and it drinks petrol like there is no tomorrow. If your turbo is the Garrett 1544V, then your engine must be the 2L or 1.6 but with the 110bhp? The 1.6HDi (90bhp) has the mitsubishi turbo. I do not know the exact boost of the mitsubishi one, but it should go to ~1.9-2 bars. For the 1544V, the variable vanes, I am not too sure about that one.
@@moremolecules yes it’s 1,6 HDi 109 hp. Turbo leak means I have to replace it sooner or later
@@pawelcitak83 regarde le collier de serrage entre le FAP et le turbo.
It's in french
Been chasing a stuttering issue and now the turbo has started fluttering at low rpm. Got my dad to start it while I looked at the gate and the gate is moving on start and when it revs and it comes back... it's really stumping me now 😂
Is it the 92bhp or the 110 turbo? the 110bhp has a different turbo, the VNT, where the 92 and 75bhp are the fixed geometry.
@more molecules it's a 110 with the variable geometry. There seems to be a rattle coming from the throttle assembly though
Can the length of the arm be adjusted to reduce/increase pressure. I think mine is incorrecly adjusted, when the wastegate was replaced
Yes you can adjust it, although the ECU controls the pressure that goes through the wastegate.
I always thought to film a video how these are adjusted. Based a bit on memory, but basically, you push the wastegate as much as possible to the right and then through the arm hole you need to see half of the left-side of the bolt. You wind down/up the end of the wastegate until this happens. That should be the correct adjustment.
Just an addition to my previous reply, you push the actual wastegate that is on the exhaust side of the turbo as much as possible to the right and then you position the wastegate valve with the bolts and adjust the arm untul you see the left half of the wastegate bolt. Hope that makes sense.
So position actuator arm with 2 mm to fully closed position for vastegate valve (arm retracts when engine starts and keeps wastegate closed)?
@@trondeivindhaugland6406 Yes correct. The movement is fairly minimal and the ECU closes the wastegate on startup.
In my citroen c4 GP 1.6hdi wastegate holds pressure but there is no vacuum in the hose. I had glow plug relay fault and turbo was working perfect. Vacuum pump was working fine as well. After fixing glow plugs problem and resetting codes vacuum is gone. Any suggestions?
It could be a broken/split hose somewhere that is leaking vacuum. It could also be the turbo solenoid at the back of the engine.
@@moremolecules I have replaced solenoid for new one and the same day when I took my car to the garage turbo was working fine. After resetting codes it stops. Probably electronic issue.
@@RomekStanek It is unlikely to be electronic issue. Most vacuum problems are mechanical. A connection could have dropped off or something or a cable split. I would look for dangling hoses somewhere or a split hose, but these are difficult to find.
My 1.4hdi has been real low on power lately, I just tried to move this lever and it's completely siezed up!
When you start the car does it move? If it is siezed, then you could take it off and see. You should be able to move it by hand.
@@moremolecules it drives alright but it feels like it has 40hp instead of the 68 it's supposed to, especially uphill. The wastegate lever does not move at all, I took off the heat shield to get at it too and removed the air hose. Now I gotta figure out if the PCV valve is also broken, and possibly the Solenoid for the turbo.
@@Gneeznow The PCV is difficult to break, but most likely something related to the turbo and it does not switch on. If I were you I would plug it in software to see if there are any errors. PP2000 for Peugeot and Lexia for Citroen.
im getting a code on a citroen c4,P0299 what might this be
Hi Shea300zxTT, it is a generic error for low boost pressure, it could be a lot of things. Depends on what kind of model you have, if it is the same I would unplug the vacuum pipe and see if it makes any difference. If it does not, check the diaphragm whether it holds vacuum.
Nice video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I'm going crazy with the wastage in my car, I have a Peugeot 208 1.4 hdi 68 hp of 2012, since 4 days you can hear a rattle noise coming from the wastegate, when there is a normal temperature you don't hear anything but when the car is hot at idle it makes noise. If I put my finger on the rod of the wastegate it stops making noise. What could it be? Do I have to change the internal flapper of the wastegate? 😞
Rather weird thing. Is it possible that the small ring that holds the rod to the turbo is missing and this is rattling? There is not much wrong to go inside and start rattling.
@@moremolecules I took the car to a turbo mechanic and the noise says it's the inner lid of the wastegate, the one that controls the exhaust fumes. It says it desoldered and makes a rattle-like noise. He told me that probably the inner flapper of the wastegate to another 2 years of life and to let it go for now because the car works great. I checked the wastegate and nothing is missing and everything is in place. Anyway checking on the web I realized that this noise is a common problem on almost all turbos. Turbo with 118000km and 8 years. Could it be something electronic that controls the opening and closing of the wastegate? Maybe it doesn't close properly when the car is idling...
Any test to check the vacuum hose from turbo actuator to turbo solenoid? Original Equipment part number for the vacuum hose? I'm no sure if you can replace it with a standard silicone hose cut to length of less than 3 m, outer diameter 9mm and inner diameter 4mm. When I do the simple test for the turbo actuator, the rod returns a few millimetres but the diaphragm holds the vacuum until I release it. Turbo pressure and air flow measured values are less than reference values, so it seems the turbo actuator does not close the waste gate completely but I don't know what causes this issue: actuator, vacuum hose, solenoid or anything else. I get turbo pressure of 918 mbar at solenoid valve OCR of 77% are those normal figures? What's the max turbo pressure you can get? The original vacuum hose is made of hard plastic and it has like a gray sleeve for thermal insulation.
Do you think there could be carbon deposits on the wastegate or the valve Seat that prevents the valve from fully closing?
For how long is the wastegate in the closed position after starting Up the engine and then leaving It running at idle?
A lot of questions and I am not too sure if I can answer them all. The wastegate should not have carbon deposits, there are no gasses that go though there. Not too sure what the reference values of pressure at the solenoid valve are. Try to measure the turbo boost. That should go to at least 1800mbar. Most of the times is failure of the turbo solenoid. The hose needs to be the original hose, you do not want to have a hose that collapses under the vacuum. As far as I remember the wastegate on idle at startup gets closed and that's it, it holds it there.
@@moremolecules Thank you very much. Turbo pressure measured (900mbar) and reference value (1000mbar) should be exactly the same at idle for example? I haven't yet carried out a drive test to see the live parameters. Those figures are off by 100mbar approximately in this case. But the wastegate is completely closed so no more boost can be achieved at that engine regimen I guess. Can the EGR valve and EGR throttle be causing this issue? EGR valve is new and recalibrated. There are only minor issues with cruise control and anti-pollution fault warning very occasionally. Do you know the OE reference for the vacuum hose? I can't find it anywhere. Do you need a car lift to replace the turbo solenoid or you can do it from above the engine?
All of the above makes me wonder if the turbo cartridge is in good condition, there is a bit of oil in the compressor inlet but I'm not sure if it comes from the rocker cover or from the turbo oil line.
It seems there are no air leaks between the turbo and MAP sensor.
@@csraln6748 The turbo does not kick in when at idle no matter how much you rev it. It needs to be under load to get the live data. Yes, the solenoid can be replaced from the top or bottom, but is tight there. You can lean on top of the engine and undo it, but you may need a mirror to see it. Check the specs of the hose here: www.catcar.info/citroen/?lang=en
I do not think these are affected by the EGR. You could blank the EGR if you want to try it to see if the problems persist, kind of to exclude that.
Also, check if the relief hose valve is not blocked. It should be cliped somewhere between 2-3rd injectors. The end should be relatively clean.
@@moremolecules Apparently the relive valve is not blocked, it has four inlets and the foam filter is dirty and worn. How do you open the valve to clean the inside and replace the foam filter if possible? Can you buy a new one anywhere?
@@csraln6748 I do not think that the filter can be changed and I have tried before. It is like sealed and that is that. As long as there is no carbon deposits that block it completely I do not think it will be an issue. You can take off the turbo solenoid and test it yourself. Blow in one hole and see if the ball valve is moving as expected. It is not too expensive, so worth replacing, I have seen/heard multiple issues with the solenoid.
Hey, stupid question but would this fault show up on a diagnostics machine? Thanks
Hi Ben, it should, but it might not. Depending on what is not working, it should show underboost, but it does not always happen.
@@moremolecules thanks for getting back to me. My car keeps going into limp mode and it’s getting a diagnostics tomorrow so my mind is racing wondering what it’ll be so if it’s something like this I hope they pick it up.
@@Ben-bu2jg It should pick it up, but there may be a lot of things for a limp mode. See what the computer says and take it from there.
I still didn't do this test, I don't have power at low rpm and then after 3000rpm it pulls as hell. What in case I don't have vacum? What is wrong then?
Yeah, not too sure about this, it could be that at low rpm the wastegate is a little bit stuck or MAF sensor is faulty. Try with an OBDII device to see if there are any errors, that might help.
@@moremolecules thank you very much for answer, I checked MAF sensor, it goes nice from 100kPa to like 210 above 4000rpm. I just added wynns gold, maybe that will help for cleaning and I will check wastegate today
Merhaba, Citroen 3 1.6 hdi 92 hp aracım. Bu wastegate testini motor kapalı halde yapıyoruz değil mi?
Motor kapalı halde yaptım aynı şekilde hareket yaptı.. ama motor açıkken rolanti halinde çok fazla oynamadı. Bu sorunlu bir wastegate mi demek oluyor? Yoksa olması gereken normal durum mu?
Only when you turn the engine the wastegate will move a little bit, otherwise on idle it will not move. It needs load or for the car to move to see the wastegate pass the initial few mm.
@@moremoleculessizin yaptığınız şekilde araç kapalı halde testi yaptım çubuk ileri gitti. Sağlıklı bir wastagate'e sahibim o zaman 😊. Teşekkür ederim ilgilenip cevap verdiğiniz için.
I'm getting oil coming from my crank I take to my turbo is this normal
Do you mean that oil is coming from the crankcase or the PCV? A small amount is normal, excessive is not. The air intake will be coated with a bit of oil from the crankcase, that would be normal.
Hi mate would a 2 liter turbo fit to the 1.6 engine
Not too sure, but the 110bhp turbo will fit on the 92bhp 1.6HDi. But this will need an ECU remap
Hi , my air intake hose on turbo side is barely on and impossible to keep on, Would there be a difference between berlingo and Peugeot, I have a 2008 berlingo 1.6 hdi,
If it goes on one part it doesn’t line up on others , Thanks
Exactly the same and no difference, the difference is the badge only. They are the same company PSA, now Stellantis.
I would check if the red rubber seal is not split and replace it with a good part. Screw the ring and when the engine is hot a bit more. Should hold.
@@moremolecules Thanks , I’m having real difficulty in getting it to fit , especially onto turbo, it just keeps coming off and the other two parts are well out of line, it’s like it’s not long enough!
Your videos are brilliant, Keep going!!
@@GeorgeBuchan Are all these original or replacement the air intake? It should be a good fit. I had previously bought a replacement and it was not a good fit.
@@moremolecules It’s a replacement part I threw original one away but its terrible , It’s so hard and doesn’t seal at Maf side, Not lining up at middle and 99% off all the time at turbo end!
@@GeorgeBuchan Yeah, these replacement parts are not too good. If I were you I would buy a second hand one and clean it. Better than new replacement one. The one I bought was so stiff that it could not fit anywhere. I threw it away and bought a second hand one.
Hi, having a slight issue with my car. Did the actuator test as shown by putting my hand on the end of the actuator in which it held vaccum. Issue i am having is I can see it move up when starting the car and back down again when turning off but I am getting limp mode at 3k rpm. When moving my actuator down it does not respring back up only sometimes it does and sometimes it does very slightly a bit sticky when doing this also. Would you say this is the vanes or actuator?
Yes, there might be some sticking of the wastegate. If I were you I would take the wastegate off the car and see if it really get sticky. If it is sticky you may need to replace it. If it has the same wastegate as mine, it is unlikely to be the VNT (vanes) turbo, but the fixed geometry one. Is it 92bhp or 110 or 130?
@@moremolecules hi thanks for reply, forgot to mention it is a 2013 TDI volkswagen unsure if you know much about there turbo systems
@@roshaanqaisar Hmm, I'm not too familiar with the TDI, but any wastegate needs to be free in opening and closing. Yes, vanes on the TDI will give problems as in any other vaned turbo. Difficult to say, but if there is a way to remove the wastegate to check for smoothness of operating it would be good.
@@moremolecules thank you will give this a try, so I need to remove the actuator and move it up and down not the vane lever?
@@roshaanqaisar Yes, but if the vane actuator is also a bit sticky then the vanes needs to be checked. Frequently on vaned turbos you get them misplaced and this could give you the limp mode. It is worth checking both.
Would this fault cause the engine to cut out? It starts but won’t run, checked turbo and it’s spinning free
Unlikely, but probably other reasons for the engine to cut out, most likely air in the fuel system. If you have a rubber bulb on top of the engine, I would squeeze this until very hard and you can only hear fuel only going through. If that works for the first time and then starts to cut out again you may have a pin hole somewhere in the fuel line hoses and lets air in. This is just a guess, too many thinks can lead to the engine cutting out. I would say plug it in in a computer and see what error codes you have. This would be the best course of action.
@@moremolecules
It’s reading 3 faults
Fuel rail system pressure to high
Fuel volume regulator control circuit low
Turbocharger solenoid A low
It starts rattles then cuts out after a few seconds
Any help appreciated
Thanks
@@user-cw4hb7yp9e Hmm, I'm not probably the best expert out there, but from these I would say that you may want to check the turbo solenoid at the back left of the engine (looking on top of the engine, down left), reddish thingy with several pipes coming in/out. I have not heard it leading to cut out, but it definitely leads to other errors of underboost/overboost. It may not be this, but definitely likely to be related to fuel flow, could be multiple different things, from pinhole on a hose to actual pump not working. Try with the turbo solenoid first as it is cheap and fairly easy to replace.
@@moremolecules
Will try it
Many Thanks 👍👍👍
Can you adjust these wastegates to give more boost?
Yes, you can, but it is on the dangerous side of things. You need to watch the boost levels. Although on a second thought, the engine can measure the boost and adjust the vacuum going to the wastegate, so probably no. To be honest I have not thought about it.
@@moremolecules yeah was thinking that but mine is a 1.4 hdi which isn't a vnt turbo so there is no vacuum line going to the wastegate actuator, just a pipe going from the turbo housing to the actuator
Hi, does wastegate must be in closed possition when car is running? Mine seems is opened all the time. I have Turbo charger fault P1497 and P2562
Could be wastegate, but probably a faulty MAF sensor. If I were you, first I would just unplug the MAF sensor and see if that fixes it. If this fixes it then you would need a new MAf sensor. Otherwise if the MAf does not fix it it could be a turbo solenoid stuck at the eback.
@@moremolecules I checked wastegeate and its holds vacum.I must try to disconect MAF sensor and see if its change something.Will let you know if its will work.🤞
@@MrAndrjuha Most likely it is the MAF sensor. When unplugged it goes to a default mapping and it should fix it and of course you then need to replace it. It could be the turbo solenoid at the back of the engine as well. It is pretty cheap, but difficult to replace as it is hidden down there at the back lower left side of the engine when looking on top. Good luck!
@@moremolecules Disconected MAF sensor but it does not make any difference,just come out with additional air flow error. Seems MAF sensor works, Checked turbo selenoid and it clicks when add 12v supply, not jamed. I disconnected, wastegate vacum pipe from turbo charger actuator and use just finger to feel vacum, there is some vacum but not enough to close vaste gate turbo actuator. Its bearly holds peace of papper. And i notice when vacum pipe is connected, the arm that connects wastegate rod rattles, when its disconected rattle is goone.
@@MrAndrjuha If there is that little vacuum, I would check all the vacuum pipes if there are not any holes anywhere. Also, the solenoid could be stuck but still clicking. If I were you I would still take it apart and see if these is something there.
Hello, I have 2 fault codes a P1351 and a P0234 ( overboost condition) , then the car goed into safe mode (I think), because no power anymore. Its a Peugeot 1.6 HDI. Any ideas? Thnx.
I am nearly certain that the overboost is most likely due to the turbo solenoid at the back of the engine, kind of rear left if you look at the engine from top. Most likely it is stuck and gives you constant vacuum to the turbo wastegate. It is cheap to buy, but a bit difficult to replace, as it is kind of stuck in the back.
@@moremolecules funny thing is I deleted the codes and it performed normal. But after a day or so the fault is back and the car has no power. Can the solenoid be the cause then? Intermittent fault.
@@JackTekkel Yes, it will be intermittent. Most likely it will be the turbo solenoid. Most likely does not mean that it will be, but these do get stuck. The P1351 is the pre-heating relay and is nothing to do with the overboost, but likely faulty glow-plugs. You may want to replace them sometime if of course you are in a climate where it gets cold.
For example, if you remove the vacuum hose to the turbo wastegate, you will not have overboost, but of course you will have no turbo as well.
You could also check the vacuum release valve end, it is a simple hose with a plastic end that gets clipped between injectors 2-3 or somewhere in the middle there. Make sure it is not blocked by dirt or carbon deposits or something.
@@moremolecules Thank you for your time and the information. 👍👍
@@moremolecules I got the car back from the customer, still has the overboost condition. I removed the solenoid and it looks oke. It's a Pierburg, I don't see a Peugeot logo on it, could it already be changed or is it from factory a Pierburg? Waste gate opens and closes, also vacuum at idle it closes the waste gate. I found the filter thingy between the injectors, bit funny from Peugeot, strange place putting it there. Cleaned it with brake cleaner. I temporarily refitted the solonoid, test drive today. See what happens.
Can this (the vacume seneloid) stop working but have no error code?
Unlikely. It will be associated with an error of the sort air metered flow error or measured air flow. Most likely you will get under or over boost.
@@moremolecules I found out that the seneloid has a sponge filter that can get dirty and cause bad air readings.
@@CarloLeonKolega Yes, the sponge filter is very difficult to get out and can get dirty from oil/water and that disturbs the release of pressure through it. Should be kept clean, but difficult to clean
I'm having flutter sound when i release the gas pedal after turning 2.5-3 rpm on idle. It comes from turbo but i cant the source. What can it be?
If that is the 1.6HDi, there is no turbo flutter to be heard, so likely some of the air intake pipes are loose and other leading to the intercooler.
@@moremolecules yes it's 1.6hdi 80kw. sound comes from near turbo. I checked the pipes that i can reach. All is tightened. I'll check rest on weekend by removing bumper. But for example if there is a leak from the ones on the left, is it possible to hear the sound from turbo? I'm really confused.
@@tersfilozof4550 Normally there is a flutter kind of, but the intake pipes muffle the sound. Now, if the air intake was off you should be able to hear it. So, some of the intake is leaking. Most likely I mean, not 100% certain as I have never heard flutter from 1.6HDi. Don't remove the bumper, it is hard to put back and likely you will break a few plastic bits and pieces. Could be the wastegate arm and missing vacuum or sticky wastegate somewhat. Check if it releases correctly and or is moving, probably it is a bit sticky and you get the flutter.
@@moremolecules I'll check it after work. But it was a bit sticky after release. Is it dangerous to drive with this for a trip. Around 2000kms
@@tersfilozof4550 Do not quote me on this, but I do not think it is dangerous, but you never know. It should be ok.
Can them parts be changed with changing turbo
Yes, all these can be changed. One has to follow the correct half-moon length of the wastegate arm, so the correct amount of air being forced is correct.
@@moremolecules 👍👊
Hi, I have Peugeot partner, like yours. I have sign come on my deshbord, said engine clogging. Risk of filter. Some body suggest me, put some DPF cleaner and drive good 40 to 50 miles. Which is I did. Then I off engine. Try to start again. But is not starting. Please could you help me. By way 10, 000 miles before DPF was cleaned. Now even power lossing. I will waiting for your answer. If you are near to me. I would hire you. Many thanks.
Hi Mizanur, you do not want to hire me, I am no mechanic. If you have diagbox or PP2000, have a read if there are any errors. If the DPF was cleaned and it is clean, then it could be that the DPF sensor might be at fault. DPF sensors should not be too expensive to replace. How many miles/km has the Partner on? DPF filters are designed for ~100,000 miles or 160,000km.
My partner done only 10,000 miles, after clean it. Thanks.
@@mizanurrahman9678 It could be that the DPF is done or a sensor issue.
Whats the part number for the actuator?
Yeah, good question. I do not know it.
@@moremolecules Tnx anyways. Anyways, does this engine, have low boost in 1 and 2 gear. I have the 85kw version and 1 and 2 speed are so slugish.
This must be 1.6 hdi 90 hp! Because on 1.6 with 110hp turbocarger is with variable geometry!
Yes, that's correct, it's the 1.6HDi 92bhp
Hey there @more molecules,
I have the P0243 - Turbo pressure too high. I checked everything above, Turbo is rotating EGR replaced, MAP and MAF sensor replaced, nothing... Everything looks clean.
When engine is cold everything is okay. But around 90 kmph de power is decreasing and the check-engine light goes on and the display says "error exhaust gas" (translated from dutch).
What can it be?
Hi Marty, what engine do you have. I assume it is 1.6HDi or TDCi, but it could be the 90bhp or 110bhp. The turbo will be different in both, the 90 has the turbo in the video, i.e. with a wastegate. The 110 will have VNT turbo. In your case, check the wastegate and there is also a turbo solenoid at the back of the engine, a bit on the left. Also, make sure that the hose that comes out of the turbo solenoid and goes next to the injectors is clean. This is a small pipe with a filter at the end.
@@moremolecules Mine is a Partner 1.6HDi 90hp from 2007 and the turbo is exactly as above. Vacuum from the solenoid is working as the wastegate is operated on engine start.
You mean I should unmount the turbo solenoid and clean the filter?
But what part is activated at around 90kmph (56mph) at around 2800rpm, when engine temp is above 60 degrees Celcius, at that point the engine enters emergency run and is limited to max 2800rpm and 123kmph. It looses a lot of power as it takes 5-10km (3-6 miles) to get from 90kmph to 123kmph.
Stationary the engine is a bit rough, and exhaust stinks (methane?). The engine starts a bit jumpy when turning the key, but it starts.
Diagnostics give me 2 errors: P0243 Turbo pressure too high (permanent) and P1351 pre-/post heating relay, relay checked and spark plugs not provided (permanent). I used Delphi OBD.
@@MrEMMinet I would say that the turbo solenoid might be faulty. I am not familiar with the Delphi EOBD, but get turbo pressure measurement while you drive, if you can of course. It should drop to ~1bar (atmospheric pressure) on tickover. Probably the solenoid does not switch/release the pressure and get constant turbo. I would also double check the relief valve on top of the engine. This goes from the solenoid and basically the solenoid diverts the pressure there. Sometimes this gets clogged. Check if you injectors are clean, as on mine this filter type thing is positioned next to them, but on yours might be slightly different. Also check if the spring within the wastegate is intact, i.e. it moves when engine is off, move it with hand.
@@moremolecules can you advice me on an elm327 device that works with Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi 2007 engine? I tried some, but they can't connect to the ECU. The Delphi OBD mentioned above is a professional device that a friend of mine has, but it would be nice if I can read and reset faults myself and get some driving-stats out of it, to find out more about my specific problems.
@@MrEMMinet This is a tough one. I purchased (a while ago) a diagbox interface, similar to this one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diagnostic-Interface-Diagbox-Scanner-V7-83-PP2000-Lexia-3-for-Citroen-Peugeot/352819199131. Problem is that my version is v47 and it works with my 2007 Peugeot Partner (2007) under windows XP. The newer version I am not too sure, but I suspect it will work. It is a bit expensive, but you can do anything with it. The elm327, they are all the same, i.e. cheap copy of the original elm327, some work some do not and I have bought 3 of these and had partial success with one. I do not want to recommend it, as it is luck of the draw what these people will have in stock and might not be what I bought. I would say to buy one of the diagbox interface versions, success is much more likely than with the elm327 copies. Hope this helps, but good luck with this one. Let me know of any success
That wastegate is in a different position to mine.
Well, yes, it may be at different position, depending on what model/year your car is and I bet it may be the 110bhp
@@moremolecules yes mine is 2006 110hp 1.6
@@jamesa1841 Then, yes, the position of the wastegate will be different and that is VNT turbo. The one shown in the video is straight forward non-variable vane turbo.
When this should go all the way up when engine revs over 2.5k
It should not move under revving up, only under load.
That is not the good test.
I will explain you which one is. Tools: adjustable vaccum pump, vaccum gauge, technical documentation (training manual) for your car.
Onto different negative pressure (vaccum), actuator will be on different position. This is linear funcktion. Basicly, for full action of actuator, you need to apply full pressure from your vaccum pump (about -1 bar of pressure (-10MPa)). For 50% open, you need half of the pressure.
This metod is better because you can diagnose both vaccum pipes and actuator condition.
If anyone wants to be a repairman, pls start to learning and using right tools.
As I see in video, you didn't do any measurments. Only Looking at the parts and watching how it moves, never will give you knowledge.
Best regards!
😂😂😂
Hmm, the title of the video is a "simple test" you talk about a rather complex measurement tools. I did not say once in the video this is the best way to test the wastegate.
The simple test I was conducting is it wotking or not, not is it 95% effective and so on.
Most people, I included, might want a simple way to remove some non-working parts and narrow down different pathways, buying every possible tool out there will be too expensive for anyone to do any DIY work on their cars.
@@moremolecules Your test is simple, but my test is simple to, maybe simpliest than yours. Only thing you need to do is to disconnect pipe from wastegate and make new connection with vaccum gauge. In that way you are doing test of 3 components: wastegate, pipe and pump. It is not matter does wastegate actuator work or not, but does it work properly in all conditions. And what is more important, You don't need to teardown turbocharger. If you carefully think, your test have no sense at all, because after the test you still don't know is it wastegate actuator good or not.
There is no need for taking safe guard. I gave You my knowledge for free.
@@zoranpaunovic4336 wow, thank you, not much more to add really.
Thanks
Hi mine is working like that but when I drove it the wastgate isint opening can you tell me what might be the problem there please I'm geting vacuum from the wastgate pipe please help
Do you have lack of power or some type of error on the multifunction display?
@@moremolecules no have loads off power no codes on display
@@kevingoldbey7401 If you have no codes and there is power, then it works at it should. If you have no power and there is vacuum, most likely it is the wastegate.
@@moremolecules I tought that the wastgate opens when u rev it on standstill so ur saying it has to get boost up before it opens is it
@@kevingoldbey7401 Yes, there needs to be boost or the wastegate gives you the boost, but the ECU is clever and can sense there is no boost required.