Perfect explained and helpful. Thank you. Just an idea: ground clamp of welder must be attached to the arm, not to the body. Because spark between shaft and bushing can cause internal welding or bumps.
Hey, thanks for the video. My noise is exactly the same as the video. I went to a mechanic and replaced the part, but the noise still remains. He commented about having to use a clip now, but I can't find one to buy. Do you have any idea?
@@motorcarnut We did it exactly like in the video. The noise has subsided, but continues. When changing gears and around 2500-3000 rpm. Is there a chance we did something wrong?
You can try but most shops do their own repairs and may not want to do this for what ever reasons. This video was designed for the DIYer to save a lot of money.
Hello sir, Is it normal for smoke to come from the edge of the bronz bushing of Westgate when first started in the mornings on cold days. A white smoke comes for about 5 seconds, like cigarette smoke, then it stops.
@@motorcarnut I have catless downpipes, “repaired” turbos, s63 intercooler, dual custom catch cans, a custom front facing intake, custom fabricated charge pipes. And everything seems to work great, except when I go full throttle it rattle really hard and I don’t hear the turbo spool like it should and it has gotten worse. I am pretty sure it’s the wastegate not closing tight enough, though idk if it’s the vacuum solenoid, vacuum actuators or my repair job that’s bad.
at the beginning of your vid next to the oil can is the diverter valve. On my M235i I have the dreaded code. There are only 3 screws holding it in place. The issue is horrible access. Apparently it may be possible by removing the charge pipe. loosening the water pump, and moving it to the side without undoing the plumbing. Then the 3 screws can be accessed. Any exper. on M235 ?
@@motorcarnut thank you, i ve got a 2017 b48 with 57 miles on it. I dont know if this can happen on my engine too.. in that case i can replace it early...
Great video! I am doing my N55. A got a replacement flapper but the sleeve seems too loose in the shaft. What is the expected clearance between these two in terms of their diameter difference? I assume there should be some clearance to allow for heat expansion, but if feels like it will still rattle, so I am scared to install it. Where do you recommend I buy one of good quality? Thank you!!
@@GreepsTV I went with Mamba Turbo from Taiwan. Mamba confirmed the material were correct stainless for high temp. In any case, a warranty is worthless for a part that requires a week to get out and welding to replace.
Fantastic video! Thank you! Quick question, what was your welder setup for this? All I have is a flux core mig and I want to make sure the weld will hold if I use that.
@Motorcarnut what are your thoughts on buying a whole replacement turbo from ebay? Brand new one on there for 350 I seen but i’m worried about the quality
What is the name of that tool? Stupid question I know but I’m looking for that exact tool to test my turbo charger now that I have removed it from car. Bc it rattles a lot
Nice idea and made up. Also good how you filmed and explained everything. I personally had welded it with tig, you can weld much nicer with it. What I don't understand is that they didn't put a spring between the round flapper and bracket. A spring with a certain pre-tension that always ensures that the flapper, even when it is open, is under tension so that the flapper cannot vibrate. When the flapper is in the closed position, the spring is fully compressed so that it also closes properly. Might be fun to try out sometime, see if my idea works..
Thanks for the comment! Appreciated Yes, tig is cleaner but I have mig so that’s what we use. The spring idea would be interesting but I don’t think it would withstand the extreme heat imo
Excellent video, it is just what I need to do in my turbo.. I would like to ask you something, I see that you changed the wastegate and I have seen some that can use stronger springs to increase the turbo pressure a bit.. with the one you changed you got more boost and if so, did you get an error in the car's computer?
Thank you so much. What a fantastic look inside to the actual mechanical issues of the N20 turbo - working with dealers or independent shops a person can shell out $1000 to not even figure out the problem. Then there’s a $5000 “new” turbo at the end of the rainbow when they and the customer both throw up their hands, when really the problem is $30 worth of parts plus a group of engineers that need to be kicked in the balls repeatedly for this garbage design. May God have mercy on all N20 owners because this kind of silliness is only the beginning…
I used a roll pin that was a really tight fit and then used my mig welder to seal it in place. I figure that will keep the pin captive. Not saying someone should do that, it's just how I did it.
What kind of pressure tester do u have. That u used on the turbo in the beginning. I’m trying to get the same one because I just took the turbo off my n20 and waiting for the flapper to come in. Cuz I’m not paying some 5 grand to fix my turbo. Btw. I managed to pull it off while the engine was in the car 😭
i adjusted like 4 times n then ran out of threads so now need to do this new waste gate fix. errors keep coming back after a little while but since its an easy adjustment, worked as temp fix.
Just go find a donor with a wastegate flap that doesn't feel loose, buy a new center cartridge since that's what goes out either way when these turbos die so you may as well change it while you have this thing out, and reassemble with the donor wastegate/manifold portion while discarding the bad one
I meant for the do it yourself community. And if it is used, even if they say it's "Good" I would still change the cartridge. Though you do have a point, its rare for a yard to simply let you take the portion you need and leave the rest behind. Maybe as these become older you will find them in pick and pull type yards, but until then, we are all at the mercy of the European junk yards that want tons of cash because they buy these cars at auctions for top dollar to make a killing off parting them out @@motorcarnut
Just so you know the N20 2.0L with electronic waste gate are not welded. At least it appears that mine isn’t, and it uses clips. My actuator arm bar came off completely.
Are you talking about the actuator arm to the flapper arm? Yes that has a clip but the inside flap valve in the exhaust is welded, which is what this video is about.
@@motorcarnut Yes I am referring to that actuator arm sold with EWG, it appeared welded at the beginning explanation and thought it may have been on pneumatic. I am trying to avoid $500 part from dealer and replace with the Mitsubishi OEM part. My only concern is calibration with ISTA software. Do you have any tips, recommendations, or videos on that topic?
I ordered the Mitsubishi OEM part from parts geek and I have read it might not need calibration. Should I use the old arm that corroded a bit and fell off the clip, or should I install it with the new arm replacement from OEM part? Trying to avoid a trip to the shop 30min away for software, thanks.
@@motorcarnut hi thanks for the reply, im not quite sure I understand response. Are you saying if I use the new arm with the EWG I ordered it will not need calibration?
The engine plant is not different. Only one detail is different. At VW and BMW you have a device for every part. Everything will always connected at the same spot. What the good man does here is actually better than at the engine plant. Every component has a dimensional tolerance. So it can happen that if one or more components are at the outer tolerance of 0.2mm, problems can occur in interaction with other components and the engine. He set the tolerance nearly to 0 with his method.
If that flap doesn't seal tight the vehicle will lose boost pressure and power. The one in the video has too much play and didn't seal right causing low boost pressure codes.
Your explanation is 11/10, the vid is easy to follow and understand qualifying for the best of the best vids I have seen on TH-cam
Wow, thanks! Really appreciate the feedback!
Perfect explained and helpful. Thank you. Just an idea: ground clamp of welder must be attached to the arm, not to the body. Because spark between shaft and bushing can cause internal welding or bumps.
Thank you! Good point, you’re correct about that.
Thank you for the detailed explanation! Great video.
Appreciate it, glad it was helpful! and thanks for the feedback!
great explanation on how the turbo wastegate works
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback!
Hey, thanks for the video. My noise is exactly the same as the video. I went to a mechanic and replaced the part, but the noise still remains. He commented about having to use a clip now, but I can't find one to buy.
Do you have any idea?
BMW 118i 2014, THP engine
The way I explain in the video is the only way unless you replace the turbo with a new one.
@@motorcarnut We did it exactly like in the video. The noise has subsided, but continues. When changing gears and around 2500-3000 rpm.
Is there a chance we did something wrong?
@@motorcarnut "clip fastener" is the thing my mechanic is saying is needed
You must of
Could I send my 2012 mini countryman turbo in for this wastegate fix? I don't weld.
You can try but most shops do their own repairs and may not want to do this for what ever reasons. This video was designed for the DIYer to save a lot of money.
Great video with in dept details. Do you offer this service ?
Thank you very much and yes we do!
Hello sir, Is it normal for smoke to come from the edge of the bronz bushing of Westgate when first started in the mornings on cold days. A white smoke comes for about 5 seconds, like cigarette smoke, then it stops.
Not really, can be a minor leak.
@@motorcarnut th-cam.com/users/shortsZY7xVqLAg5w
@@motorcarnut th-cam.com/users/shortsZY7xVqLAg5w
We’re do I found the part ??? Please let me know thanks love your videos
Thank you! On ebay
What’s the name of the part thanks for your help
Hey I found it thanks for the help 👌🏼
Great! No problem!
Hey do you have a video of removing the exhaust and turbo out of the car ? If you do can you send me the link please?
Okay so brand new flapper kit installed and have terrible rattle still? Maybe didn’t tighten the watergate arm enough? I’m on a n63
Yes, that's the problem. When its closed it has to be tight that you can't move it with you fingers.
@@motorcarnut like can’t move it at all when pulled to 7 in/hg?
@@motorcarnut I had mine where it barely moves when at 7 in/hg and it rattles like shit
You sure its the valve making noise?
@@motorcarnut I have catless downpipes, “repaired” turbos, s63 intercooler, dual custom catch cans, a custom front facing intake, custom fabricated charge pipes. And everything seems to work great, except when I go full throttle it rattle really hard and I don’t hear the turbo spool like it should and it has gotten worse. I am pretty sure it’s the wastegate not closing tight enough, though idk if it’s the vacuum solenoid, vacuum actuators or my repair job that’s bad.
at the beginning of your vid next to the oil can is the diverter valve. On my M235i I have the dreaded code. There are only 3 screws holding it in place. The issue is horrible access. Apparently it may be possible by removing the charge pipe. loosening the water pump, and moving it to the side without undoing the plumbing. Then the 3 screws can be accessed. Any exper. on M235 ?
What you said seems about right. It’s a pain but can be done without turbo removal.
thanks/ waiting for long ball end 5mm allen socket to arrive, also found out waterpump bolts are supposed to be replaced... what a pain@@motorcarnut
@Mau105 it is, sometimes I loosen the passenger side engine mount and lift the engine a little to give a little more access.
Needs this done🙌 great work!! Where can i get this done? What the price to get samething done
Thank you, you can get the flapper valve kit on eBay for about $20.00 and find a mechanic or machine shop to do the work for you.
Could you please tell me after how many miles this usually happens?
Varies, can be 75k can be 100k
@@motorcarnut thank you, i ve got a 2017 b48 with 57 miles on it. I dont know if this can happen on my engine too.. in that case i can replace it early...
@petrolbreadmatt9193 you should be fine for a while
Great video! I am doing my N55. A got a replacement flapper but the sleeve seems too loose in the shaft. What is the expected clearance between these two in terms of their diameter difference? I assume there should be some clearance to allow for heat expansion, but if feels like it will still rattle, so I am scared to install it. Where do you recommend I buy one of good quality? Thank you!!
Try eBay, should have some play but not excessive.
fcpeuro has lifetime warranty
@@GreepsTV I went with Mamba Turbo from Taiwan. Mamba confirmed the material were correct stainless for high temp. In any case, a warranty is worthless for a part that requires a week to get out and welding to replace.
Dope video been looking for something this straight forward tells u every thing u need to know now jus gotta learn how to weld lol
Thank you! I will be making a video soon about welding but you can find someone who does weld it for you, shouldn’t be that expensive.
If I send my turbo can you do the same
Not at the moment, sorry
Fantastic video! Thank you! Quick question, what was your welder setup for this? All I have is a flux core mig and I want to make sure the weld will hold if I use that.
Welcome! I don't remember just make a nice hot bead
@Motorcarnut what are your thoughts on buying a whole replacement turbo from ebay? Brand new one on there for 350 I seen but i’m worried about the quality
If it's a rebuilt OEM part I'd say go for it but if it's an aftermarket one I'd be weary of the quality because of the price.
@@motorcarnut ok thanks for the insight
@VersPs3 No problem
Awesome video. Very explanatory. After seeing this, I feel confident to tackle the job instead of replacing the turbo.
You can do it! Just take your time. Thanks for the comment!
Is anybody able to find or know where to find what PSI or HG the n55 pneumatic waste gate is supposed to be closed at? Can’t find this info anywhere
5 to 7 hg
Where can I buy the repair kit???
EBay or Amazon
What is the name of that tool? Stupid question I know but I’m looking for that exact tool to test my turbo charger now that I have removed it from car. Bc it rattles a lot
Vacuum pump?
Nice idea and made up. Also good how you filmed and explained everything. I personally had welded it with tig, you can weld much nicer with it.
What I don't understand is that they didn't put a spring between the round flapper and bracket. A spring with a certain pre-tension that always ensures that the flapper, even when it is open, is under tension so that the flapper cannot vibrate. When the flapper is in the closed position, the spring is fully compressed so that it also closes properly. Might be fun to try out sometime, see if my idea works..
Thanks for the comment! Appreciated
Yes, tig is cleaner but I have mig so that’s what we use. The spring idea would be interesting but I don’t think it would withstand the extreme heat imo
Excellent video, it is just what I need to do in my turbo.. I would like to ask you something, I see that you changed the wastegate and I have seen some that can use stronger springs to increase the turbo pressure a bit.. with the one you changed you got more boost and if so, did you get an error in the car's computer?
No, that one is standard pressure.
Hello, can you tell me what size is the drill bit to drill out the pin? I need to get a high quality bit without spending $80 on a whole set. Thanks
I don't know as I punched it out, not drilled it out>
How would you be able to measure the psi when it comes down to the electrical unit?
It’s not controlled by vacuum on electronic waste gates
Where I can found the parts for the repair?
eBay is a great place to start
Thanks for a great video. My WG is much looser than that one and I am replacing it per your advice.
Great! It’s not that hard and should be a lifetime fix
Full engine replacement and did your repair for my turbo. Boosting like brand new!! Thanks for a great video.
Awesome bro, thanks for the update and good luck!
This faulty give drivetrain error? Please share information with me.
Yes, drivetrain malfunction message, low boost pressure and many others
@@motorcarnut thanks sir. Did not notice I commented on both your video. Haha.. really appreciate it
No problem
Thank you so much. What a fantastic look inside to the actual mechanical issues of the N20 turbo - working with dealers or independent shops a person can shell out $1000 to not even figure out the problem. Then there’s a $5000 “new” turbo at the end of the rainbow when they and the customer both throw up their hands, when really the problem is $30 worth of parts plus a group of engineers that need to be kicked in the balls repeatedly for this garbage design. May God have mercy on all N20 owners because this kind of silliness is only the beginning…
No problem, thanks for the comment!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Is this the one on G30 5 series?
I’m not exactly sure but just search the internet for your specific vehicle, eBay is good place to start
Do those flapper doors come in different sizes?
They are designed for a specific turbo so just order the one for your specific vehicle.
Do you think a roll pin would be sufficient to hold the bushing ?
No way, too much heat
I used a roll pin that was a really tight fit and then used my mig welder to seal it in place. I figure that will keep the pin captive. Not saying someone should do that, it's just how I did it.
Hey may last for a long time.
My 2013 does rattle and mechanic asked $1500 to change the OEM Turbo ! Can I replace this with used Turbo ?
Please advise
Yes
Do u have a link to this set?
I don’t but you can search eBay with your year and model and find them easily
Do you have a solution for bmw g30 530i? I have the same sound
Same solution, just removing the turbo is different.
Wouldn't you want the sleeve of the bushing to be completely smooth so the arm does not snag to it?
It’s not designed that way, there is a ledge where the are sits before welding it. No snagging at all
@@motorcarnut ok great!
What kind of pressure tester do u have. That u used on the turbo in the beginning. I’m trying to get the same one because I just took the turbo off my n20 and waiting for the flapper to come in. Cuz I’m not paying some 5 grand to fix my turbo. Btw. I managed to pull it off while the engine was in the car 😭
That's a vacuum pump, you can buy one on amazon. That's right, save a lot of money with my videos doing it yourself! Awesome!
Do you think u can bypass that by tightening the rod with the screw?
It can be a temporary fix, yes. But will eventually need to be replaced.
i adjusted like 4 times n then ran out of threads so now need to do this new waste gate fix. errors keep coming back after a little while but since its an easy adjustment, worked as temp fix.
Yes, they wear out too fast these bmw turbos.
My Rod keeps falling down and shop says a need new turbo cause there’s rust so can’t hold That’s the way to fix thank you
Yep, no problem!
is this for the n13 engine? ive heard some people put a vw clip on it and the sound stops
This was the N20 but can apply to any wastegate. I don’t know nothing about some clip.
@@motorcarnut I see, thanks
No problem
Just go find a donor with a wastegate flap that doesn't feel loose, buy a new center cartridge since that's what goes out either way when these turbos die so you may as well change it while you have this thing out, and reassemble with the donor wastegate/manifold portion while discarding the bad one
Not that easy, if they have a good one they will charge you for the whole turbo
I meant for the do it yourself community. And if it is used, even if they say it's "Good" I would still change the cartridge. Though you do have a point, its rare for a yard to simply let you take the portion you need and leave the rest behind. Maybe as these become older you will find them in pick and pull type yards, but until then, we are all at the mercy of the European junk yards that want tons of cash because they buy these cars at auctions for top dollar to make a killing off parting them out @@motorcarnut
@puctbridge Yep, true
Para bmw 335d e90 no lo encuentro por ningun lado ayudame porfavor donde conseguirlo
Try eBay
Great educational video
Thank you 🤗 Appreciated
I need exact parts technical drawings with measurements for reproducing. How can I find them?
I don’t know
@@motorcarnut Did you reproduce the parts or just bought it?
@GlobalisticKiller I bought them off eBay
@@motorcarnut can you share the link? I couldn't find the exact set on ebay.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313&_nkw=bmw+n+20+flapper+valve&_sacat=0
where can I buy this kit?
eBay, Amazon
@@motorcarnut not exist for B57
Really? Try searching entire internet for it
I am very grateful for this video it saved me a lot of money n stress, thank you so much incredible stuff!
You're very welcome! Really appreciate the feedback!
Great video but i thought N20 was supposed to be closed at 7psi?..
7 is correct but not psi but inHg
Where can I get the parts
Search eBay
Just so you know the N20 2.0L with electronic waste gate are not welded. At least it appears that mine isn’t, and it uses clips. My actuator arm bar came off completely.
Are you talking about the actuator arm to the flapper arm? Yes that has a clip but the inside flap valve in the exhaust is welded, which is what this video is about.
@@motorcarnut
Yes I am referring to that actuator arm sold with EWG, it appeared welded at the beginning explanation and thought it may have been on pneumatic.
I am trying to avoid $500 part from dealer and replace with the Mitsubishi OEM part. My only concern is calibration with ISTA software. Do you have any tips, recommendations, or videos on that topic?
I ordered the Mitsubishi OEM part from parts geek and I have read it might not need calibration. Should I use the old arm that corroded a bit and fell off the clip, or should I install it with the new arm replacement from OEM part? Trying to avoid a trip to the shop 30min away for software, thanks.
@LightSpinAngler No, if it will need calibration it’s for the electrical part not the mechanical arm.
@@motorcarnut hi thanks for the reply, im not quite sure I understand response. Are you saying if I use the new arm with the EWG I ordered it will not need calibration?
thank you so much, will try it soon as my new aftermarket Go Fast diverter valve arrived. I love novel approaches to difficult scenarios.
That’s how you learn!
Hi
Very nice video clip hope will help my issue too,
If I replace flapper it will reduce turbo noise?
And also I have code 120308
Yes, not only the noise but have increased power as well
Where can I buy the wastegate flapper ?
ebay
ebay
I may try to make a vid, as this to me is open heart surgery, though I am an amateur
It’s not so bad, the biggest thing is welding.
Where to buy flap actuator( pneumatic)??
Off ebay, just search your year make and model.
@@motorcarnut thx
Welcome
I wonder how many people clicked off the video when he said welder
I’m sure not many. I explain if you can’t weld to have someone do that part. Or you can always buy a new one for $3000
Ha, yeah, that was me. But I came back to finish!
How much power welding machine have to have for this job?
It’s not so much the price of the machine but you have to know how to weld.
@@motorcarnutisn’t there supposed to be a anti rattle clip even on the pneumatic waste gate on that n20?
This is an amazing job, but it won't be permanent
Thank you! It's as permanent as you can get, just like a new one.
The engine plant is not different. Only one detail is different. At VW and BMW you have a device for every part. Everything will always connected at the same spot.
What the good man does here is actually better than at the engine plant. Every component has a dimensional tolerance. So it can happen that if one or more components are at the outer tolerance of 0.2mm, problems can occur in interaction with other components and the engine. He set the tolerance nearly to 0 with his method.
Exactly! Thank you!
I didn’t understand the 3 30 seconds part much can you explain better
If that flap doesn't seal tight the vehicle will lose boost pressure and power. The one in the video has too much play and didn't seal right causing low boost pressure codes.
@@motorcarnut I understand that part but how you measured it to sit exactly at 3 30 seconds
Merci beaucoup frère
Thank you very much!
Hey can you help me do mine
Just with the video
In the United States, they don't do these kinds of jobs, They will tell you to replace whole turbo 😢
That's the whole point of the video, to show people how to do it themselves or maybe someone they know. BTW, I'm from the US too.
Ye Im not going to do that
You could have someone do it that doesn't involve an expensive full turbo replacement.
Just don’t buy a bmw lol
You can say that about any vehicle even the one you are driving, most problems are caused by the owner
Nahhh