Just found this issue on our 2016 3.5l Transit 250. Easy to pull and check. Diaphragm was torn in two places!! Thanks for the help! Replacing with Ford part.
Fyi. That part was making a clicking sound and it got replaced but the issue continued. The fix was that one of the clamps was loose, and it needed to be tighten in. That fixed my issue. Check all clamps.
I installed the Amazon blow off valve and it reduced smoke a great deal. I think there is residue in the converter and exhaust which hopefully will burn off eventually. I didn't find a diaphragm tear, but if you hold to your and listen to the sound, I think I heard a difference in while pushing the plunger. We'll see.
2020 escape 1.5T, had po299, egr system hoses what not checked. 2 weeks in dealer couldn't find till, I spray silicone lubricant around cappless fuel filler kinda alot lol but 250 miles no issues, turbo works great, no power loss. Got slight better mpg as well
@williamtunnell I've read in ford forums that they suggested if no leak on egr system, hoses what not, said try cleaning capless gas filler as leakage may cause random codes which I knew turbo was fine.
I have a 2018 accord 1.5 and I got the emission system problem light came on. I went to autozone to use the OBD reader and it gave me code P0299 turbocharger under boost. And recommended most likely solution: reconnect and or re-torque intercooler hose. My local Honda dealership told me I needed to replace the turbo charger. Now watching your video, could the fix be something else than the replacement of the turbo? Any feed is greatly appreciated
Absolutely. Underboost indicates that pressure built by the turbo is being lost somewhere - or, of course, the turbo charger isn’t creating enough boost on its own. So sure, the turbo could be the problem, but there are plenty of other places that you can be losing the pressure that could be fixed much cheaper if not for free. Check all places where air could be leaking after the turbo. For that matter, check areas before the turbo as well. I’ve just learned to seek out the cheapest and easiest and simplest possibilities first before replacing a costly part. Good luck! Let us know what you find out.
Hello! I just had the code hit on my 2013 F150. I grabbed the Amazon part to put in. As I was taking the old part off the bolt near the wheel broke (it has more corrosion). I am going to try to rotate the part and use the other holes! Wish me luck. I just need to find another lag type bolt for it. I hope that is why Ford put the two mounting holes there. In hindsight i would have sprayed some WD40 or PB Blaster on it. Also, my old part had not obvious tear so we will see what happens. Thanks for the great video!
2016 expedition, 118k. kinda sluggish off the line, but has good power at higher rpms. No codes. I first removed the connector from the boost valve and found it to be full of oil. My suspicions is a tear or leak in the diaphragm which is not visible. Any Thoughts?
Hmm, well this diaphragm is in a blowoff valve which lets off boost pressure when necessary. So the code throws when it leaks and won’t allow normal pressure to build up. The code, then, is an “Underboost”. The turbos are fine, but the computer thinks it’s not getting enough boost - because it’s not. With your issue arising at low rpm and no code, I’m not sure this is your fix. But for $35, it’s not an expensive experiment. My code would come in under load. Hard acceleration or towing. I certainly believe you should not be finding oil all over that valve, though. But I’m honestly not certified in anything!
Was taking off the old one and the bolt head snapped. Two questions: 1. Do you think it’d be ok to drive until I can get it repaired? 2. Is the solenoid something I could just drill new holes for and move slightly?
It won’t be good to drive it a lot without it, I believe, but if your valve is open you’ve essentially been doing that anyway. You won’t have to drill new holes, there’s actually 2 additional bolt holes. Thank you Ford engineers!
Would that boost /wastegate sensor cause p0299 cause the acceleration to drag almost w no gain but rpm’s to almost max out ? And only when flooring it when turbo should kick in and the motor sounds like it’s fine . I ran live diagnostic it didn’t hit over 5 psi in boost . I’ve change granny fluid oil and filter plugs bout to change this sensor today . The rear boost sensor had bare wires and oil on it inside ? I hope this clears the p0299 code tired of the headache. Ford for ya !!!
Not sure if that’ll fix what you described; but for the price of this part on Amazon, it’s worth a shot. If your old one isn’t ripped, keep looking for your problem.
Check the electrical Connection to the High Pressure Fuel Pump, Located on top of Valve Cover Drivers Side- Either replace High pressure fuel pump or replace connector to wiring Harness Will fix This- Engine will ble sluggish and High rpms plus High fuel Consumption.
@@Zenandiath another person told me that motor that the water pumps are known to go bad and cause same issue? But it’s not overheating ik the phasers are junk in these motors as well but they would just be annoying I doubt t they’d cause this much issue ? And not making noise I was also told tps could cause it
When your truck would throw the fault would it ever go into limp or de-rate mode? My torque converter is slipping and when I pull anything regardless how heavy or light when I hit any incline service light comes on and trucks goes into limited de-rate. I can shut the truck off then back on and de-rate goes away but the engine light stays on and it gives the same fault code P0299. Any input would be grateful.
So Terry, I had this exact same thing happen to me while getting the P0299 code. Ultimately, I had two problems. One was the part featured in this video, and the other was that I had to replace my throttlebody. No idea why, and very strange that both of these problems were happening at the same time. Nevertheless, the throttlebody worked and I’ve never had limp mode again.
Mine audi q5 2.0tdi goes into safe node only on highway slightly uphill after 40minuted or so. City drive no problems at all, whether you drive like crazy or normaly. But once you are on highway slightly uphill it goes into limomode. Po299 boost regulation turbo underboost. N75 and intercooler are changed. What could be the problem? I need help
if your oil is really low a sensor will turn off turbo also, I had a loose oil filter thus after oil change and new tight filter, reset code I was good to go.Turbo was fine.
I have that code and 5 more. I've changed cam sensors crank sensors the valve you replace the air-cooler as well. And still nothing has fixed the problem wich is weak acceleration. Idk what else to do but take it to dealership
Yes, and you’ll want to read this. First, while installing it, it pulled apart; something I can’t get the OEM part to do. However, it popped right back together and seemed to function fine. I guess it’s just made differently but it troubled me when it came apart in my hands! I just reassembled it and installed it. Seemed fine. I got the code almost immediately - same day I installed it, and under no load whatsoever; literally just cranked it up and didn’t move. I cleared it and have never gotten it again like that. This weekend, however, I did get it again and it’s doing the same as the OEM part - check engine light comes on under a heavy load (pulling my 10,000 lb. camper) and during take off. It does not send the code pulling up to 70 mph, but only if I take off heavy - and only while towing. To be honest, I’m pretty satisfied with leaving it like it is - and deleting the code. It doesn’t effect the performance that I can tell. In short, after running it for a while now, I honestly don’t believe the Amazon part is any worse than the OEM part. Sorry for the length - but that’s the rest of the story.
My bet is you damaged the new part or part was junk to start with. It’s cheap enough that I’d replace it with a genuine Ford part. Just my two cents though! Thanks again and cheers!!
@ethansasser overheat - no. Apparently the towing capacity is up around 11K or 13K. Our camper is 9600 lbs dry and empty. I can tell that a much bigger and heavier F250 or f350 would be better though.
Not sure what that part is called, or it’s part number. I believe it will be called a turbo outlet tube, but I’m not sure. If you still have the pin, it should snap back in place when you press the outlet tube and firmly seat it. If it doesn’t, I’d replace it.
Thanks for the reply. I ended up taking the hose off, but have no clue what’s the clip/pin’s name is. Headed to the ford dealership today and may just put hose clamp on it. Thanks again
@@tommiewatt It was called the intercooler pipe/hose. When I went to the Ford dealer back in April, he said it was on backorder for a few weeks. It was about $300 or so. Part number was BL34-6F073-AC
Also, many of these codes will clear themselves after running enough “driving cycles”. In other words, if the light is still on after 2-3 days, get it cleared. Most likely, it’ll go off as the computer get a enough driving data to tell itself that the problem was fixed.
@teenice894 I haven’t diagnosed anything further. It hasn’t thrown that code in a while now. I believe I simply have an air leak somewhere - probably a faulty connection. It only does it under load and whole accelerating. I think the turbos build enough boost to just push the air out somewhere else and cause the boost loss. It’s one of those things that isn’t bothering me, and you don’t notice any power loss so I haven’t worried with it any further. If it gets worse and more common, I’ll have to track it down.
Interestingly, I had the code a couple of times right after installation, so I wasn’t convinced this part was the cause of my code. Since then, it’s come up a couple of times, but the Amazon part certainly hasn’t caused me any issues so its apparently holding up just fine! It’s a good substitute, I’d say, since the factory part can be hard to find.
99% one turbo is shot. You should be able to listen to each side and determine which one it is. Highly recommend professional install on this. Good luck with and cheers!
Did you figure out which one it is that’s making racket? Good oil and frequent oil changes (5k) or twice a year , not the 7500 Ford service interval will help lubricate everything better and hopefully prevent further issues and damage. Good luck! Cheers!
It’s probably not something you should attempt in a driveway but possible with much patience. Definitely want to replace the coolant and oil lines when installing new turbos . Not for the faint hearted for sure. Also , removing the front clip , radiator , condenser and radiator support would be highly recommended to give you much more room to work. Bonus info: check exhaust manifolds for cracking/warped leaks and broken studs! Good luck! Cheers
Mostly, yes. I still get the code only under certain conditions - loaded and heavy acceleration. I’m posting a second video with another possible repair for P 0299
@@williamtunnell anything helps my escape is sitting at the dealer waiting for a simple computer diagnostic to better pinpoint the issue bc we've done took it to our local mechanic twice and the engine light still came back on with that same code...
Here’s another “possible” fix. Check this one out as well - How to fix error code P0299 - Turbocharger bypass solenoid valve. th-cam.com/video/RWdnu9t1d3s/w-d-xo.html
Just found this issue on our 2016 3.5l Transit 250. Easy to pull and check. Diaphragm was torn in two places!! Thanks for the help! Replacing with Ford part.
Sorry for your engine trouble but I’m glad the video helped you out!
Fyi. That part was making a clicking sound and it got replaced but the issue continued. The fix was that one of the clamps was loose, and it needed to be tighten in. That fixed my issue. Check all clamps.
This fixed my issue. Had a hole in the orange portion of the part. 30 mins to change out. If I had a lift it would have been 5.
Were you getting a squealing sound?
I installed the Amazon blow off valve and it reduced smoke a great deal. I think there is residue in the converter and exhaust which hopefully will burn off eventually. I didn't find a diaphragm tear, but if you hold to your and listen to the sound, I think I heard a difference in while pushing the plunger. We'll see.
Thanks for the video 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
2020 escape 1.5T, had po299, egr system hoses what not checked. 2 weeks in dealer couldn't find till, I spray silicone lubricant around cappless fuel filler kinda alot lol but 250 miles no issues, turbo works great, no power loss. Got slight better mpg as well
Wow! What made you think to do the silicone lubricant on the fuel filler?
@williamtunnell I've read in ford forums that they suggested if no leak on egr system, hoses what not, said try cleaning capless gas filler as leakage may cause random codes which I knew turbo was fine.
@user-gr9dd9ui9s definitely gonna try it. Thanks for the tip!
@@williamtunnell of course, make sure to dry completely
hello ... nice video ! thanks
what's the part number on amazon?
I have a 2018 accord 1.5 and I got the emission system problem light came on. I went to autozone to use the OBD reader and it gave me code P0299 turbocharger under boost. And recommended most likely solution: reconnect and or re-torque intercooler hose.
My local Honda dealership told me I needed to replace the turbo charger. Now watching your video, could the fix be something else than the replacement of the turbo? Any feed is greatly appreciated
Absolutely. Underboost indicates that pressure built by the turbo is being lost somewhere - or, of course, the turbo charger isn’t creating enough boost on its own. So sure, the turbo could be the problem, but there are plenty of other places that you can be losing the pressure that could be fixed much cheaper if not for free. Check all places where air could be leaking after the turbo. For that matter, check areas before the turbo as well. I’ve just learned to seek out the cheapest and easiest and simplest possibilities first before replacing a costly part. Good luck! Let us know what you find out.
Hello! I just had the code hit on my 2013 F150. I grabbed the Amazon part to put in. As I was taking the old part off the bolt near the wheel broke (it has more corrosion). I am going to try to rotate the part and use the other holes! Wish me luck. I just need to find another lag type bolt for it. I hope that is why Ford put the two mounting holes there. In hindsight i would have sprayed some WD40 or PB Blaster on it. Also, my old part had not obvious tear so we will see what happens. Thanks for the great video!
Good luck! It should be fine in those second bolt holes. I hope it solves your problem.
They almost always break that's why you have two holes
Saved me from going to the stealership .. mine had a large hole in it..
Glad it helped! Good luck with the fix.
2016 expedition, 118k. kinda sluggish off the line, but has good power at higher rpms. No codes. I first removed the connector from the boost valve and found it to be full of oil. My suspicions is a tear or leak in the diaphragm which is not visible. Any Thoughts?
Hmm, well this diaphragm is in a blowoff valve which lets off boost pressure when necessary. So the code throws when it leaks and won’t allow normal pressure to build up. The code, then, is an “Underboost”. The turbos are fine, but the computer thinks it’s not getting enough boost - because it’s not. With your issue arising at low rpm and no code, I’m not sure this is your fix. But for $35, it’s not an expensive experiment. My code would come in under load. Hard acceleration or towing. I certainly believe you should not be finding oil all over that valve, though. But I’m honestly not certified in anything!
I’m going to order that part right now.
Was taking off the old one and the bolt head snapped. Two questions:
1. Do you think it’d be ok to drive until I can get it repaired?
2. Is the solenoid something I could just drill new holes for and move slightly?
It won’t be good to drive it a lot without it, I believe, but if your valve is open you’ve essentially been doing that anyway. You won’t have to drill new holes, there’s actually 2 additional bolt holes. Thank you Ford engineers!
Would that boost /wastegate sensor cause p0299 cause the acceleration to drag almost w no gain but rpm’s to almost max out ? And only when flooring it when turbo should kick in and the motor sounds like it’s fine . I ran live diagnostic it didn’t hit over 5 psi in boost . I’ve change granny fluid oil and filter plugs bout to change this sensor today . The rear boost sensor had bare wires and oil on it inside ? I hope this clears the p0299 code tired of the headache. Ford for ya !!!
Not sure if that’ll fix what you described; but for the price of this part on Amazon, it’s worth a shot. If your old one isn’t ripped, keep looking for your problem.
Find solution ?
@@Babyparkerr nope
Check the electrical Connection to the High Pressure Fuel Pump, Located on top of Valve Cover Drivers Side- Either replace High pressure fuel pump or replace connector to wiring Harness Will fix This- Engine will ble sluggish and High rpms plus High fuel Consumption.
@@Zenandiath another person told me that motor that the water pumps are known to go bad and cause same issue? But it’s not overheating ik the phasers are junk in these motors as well but they would just be annoying I doubt t they’d cause this much issue ? And not making noise I was also told tps could cause it
When your truck would throw the fault would it ever go into limp or de-rate mode? My torque converter is slipping and when I pull anything regardless how heavy or light when I hit any incline service light comes on and trucks goes into limited de-rate. I can shut the truck off then back on and de-rate goes away but the engine light stays on and it gives the same fault code P0299. Any input would be grateful.
So Terry, I had this exact same thing happen to me while getting the P0299 code. Ultimately, I had two problems. One was the part featured in this video, and the other was that I had to replace my throttlebody. No idea why, and very strange that both of these problems were happening at the same time. Nevertheless, the throttlebody worked and I’ve never had limp mode again.
Mine audi q5 2.0tdi goes into safe node only on highway slightly uphill after 40minuted or so. City drive no problems at all, whether you drive like crazy or normaly. But once you are on highway slightly uphill it goes into limomode. Po299 boost regulation turbo underboost. N75 and intercooler are changed. What could be the problem? I need help
I had the exact same thing at a different time and my fix was to replace the throttle body.
if your oil is really low a sensor will turn off turbo also, I had a loose oil filter thus after oil change and new tight filter, reset code I was good to go.Turbo was fine.
Good to know!
I have that code and 5 more. I've changed cam sensors crank sensors the valve you replace the air-cooler as well. And still nothing has fixed the problem wich is weak acceleration. Idk what else to do but take it to dealership
Did you change out the throttle body?
does a 2016 lincoln mkc 2.0 have one of these on the intercooler also?
If it’s turbocharged, yes, it’ll have some type of blowoff valve to release pressure. It may not be the same design, though.
I’m having the same issue with my Ecoboost, any updates on the Amazon one ? Did it fix the issue ? Thanks
Yes, and you’ll want to read this. First, while installing it, it pulled apart; something I can’t get the OEM part to do. However, it popped right back together and seemed to function fine. I guess it’s just made differently but it troubled me when it came apart in my hands! I just reassembled it and installed it. Seemed fine. I got the code almost immediately - same day I installed it, and under no load whatsoever; literally just cranked it up and didn’t move. I cleared it and have never gotten it again like that. This weekend, however, I did get it again and it’s doing the same as the OEM part - check engine light comes on under a heavy load (pulling my 10,000 lb. camper) and during take off. It does not send the code pulling up to 70 mph, but only if I take off heavy - and only while towing. To be honest, I’m pretty satisfied with leaving it like it is - and deleting the code. It doesn’t effect the performance that I can tell. In short, after running it for a while now, I honestly don’t believe the Amazon part is any worse than the OEM part. Sorry for the length - but that’s the rest of the story.
My bet is you damaged the new part or part was junk to start with. It’s cheap enough that I’d replace it with a genuine Ford part. Just my two cents though! Thanks again and cheers!!
Thanks Richard - you’re probably 100% correct.
Your truck doesn’t overheat with a camper that heavy? I thought we could only tie up to 8500?
@ethansasser overheat - no. Apparently the towing capacity is up around 11K or 13K. Our camper is 9600 lbs dry and empty. I can tell that a much bigger and heavier F250 or f350 would be better though.
Do you know what that air hose is called? Mine was disconnected and I need to know if I need to get a new pin or replace the hose completely.
Not sure what that part is called, or it’s part number. I believe it will be called a turbo outlet tube, but I’m not sure. If you still have the pin, it should snap back in place when you press the outlet tube and firmly seat it. If it doesn’t, I’d replace it.
Thanks for the reply. I ended up taking the hose off, but have no clue what’s the clip/pin’s name is. Headed to the ford dealership today and may just put hose clamp on it. Thanks again
@@lawrobinson7334did you find out the name of hose and clamp? I need to know as well.
@@tommiewatt It was called the intercooler pipe/hose. When I went to the Ford dealer back in April, he said it was on backorder for a few weeks. It was about $300 or so. Part number was BL34-6F073-AC
Is this only for 2013 and up? There is nothing in that exact location on my ecoboost
I know it’s true for the 13 and 14 models. 3.5 liter
I change mine today with the original part and heck engine light still on or is there a way I can turn it off
Yes, you need to reset plug into a code reader. If you don't have one autozone will do it for free
Also, many of these codes will clear themselves after running enough “driving cycles”. In other words, if the light is still on after 2-3 days, get it cleared. Most likely, it’ll go off as the computer get a enough driving data to tell itself that the problem was fixed.
I've got this error code on my 2014 Ford F-150 EcoBoost. There is also a squealing whistling chirping sound with it.
Any kind of air leak in the turbo “system” of tubes and can cause this code. So it’s not necessarily this part, but it’s a common cause.
Ever find out the issue? Having the same problem
@teenice894 I haven’t diagnosed anything further. It hasn’t thrown that code in a while now. I believe I simply have an air leak somewhere - probably a faulty connection. It only does it under load and whole accelerating. I think the turbos build enough boost to just push the air out somewhere else and cause the boost loss. It’s one of those things that isn’t bothering me, and you don’t notice any power loss so I haven’t worried with it any further. If it gets worse and more common, I’ll have to track it down.
So how did the Amazon one perform?
Interestingly, I had the code a couple of times right after installation, so I wasn’t convinced this part was the cause of my code. Since then, it’s come up a couple of times, but the Amazon part certainly hasn’t caused me any issues so its apparently holding up just fine! It’s a good substitute, I’d say, since the factory part can be hard to find.
@@williamtunnell they're damn expensive too. Found one today and it was 117 after tax. Not a fan 🤣.
whats the amazon part number?
I have p0299 but its smoking and making a whinning sound i think the turbos bad
Smoking out the exhaust or from the turbos?
99% one turbo is shot. You should be able to listen to each side and determine which one it is. Highly recommend professional install on this. Good luck with and cheers!
Did you figure out which one it is that’s making racket? Good oil and frequent oil changes (5k) or twice a year , not the 7500 Ford service interval will help lubricate everything better and hopefully prevent further issues and damage. Good luck! Cheers!
@@richardcabitto5108is it possible to do it in a drive way? Or does it require special tools from professionals? Thanks
It’s probably not something you should attempt in a driveway but possible with much patience. Definitely want to replace the coolant and oil lines when installing new turbos . Not for the faint hearted for sure. Also , removing the front clip , radiator , condenser and radiator support would be highly recommended to give you much more room to work. Bonus info: check exhaust manifolds for cracking/warped leaks and broken studs! Good luck! Cheers
So did this fix the problem?
Mostly, yes. I still get the code only under certain conditions - loaded and heavy acceleration. I’m posting a second video with another possible repair for P 0299
@@williamtunnell anything helps my escape is sitting at the dealer waiting for a simple computer diagnostic to better pinpoint the issue bc we've done took it to our local mechanic twice and the engine light still came back on with that same code...
Here’s another “possible” fix. Check this one out as well - How to fix error code P0299 - Turbocharger bypass solenoid valve.
th-cam.com/video/RWdnu9t1d3s/w-d-xo.html
Is that also called the bypass solenoid??
Yes, I believe so.