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Step by Step To Replace Worn Camshaft and Timing Belt on PD TDI, BRM/BEW/BHW and others
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 เม.ย. 2021
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If you are changing injectors or want to set backlash on them check out this video: • PD TDI BRM fuel in the...
Follow up video: • BRM TDI PD 8k mile Bil...
This should work for most of the PD TDIs, there may be some differences but they are generally all the same. I tried to go through the whole process as detailed as I could but if you have any questions about things I didn't cover feel free to ask.
Kit I used, also available at CascadeGerman.com
www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Jetta-MK5...
Music: A Strange Feeling
Musician: Michael Ramir C.
URL: mixkit.co/
Music: Chill
Musician: LiQWYD
URL: / liqwyd
Man, this video is a blessing, Thank you for taking the time to do it!!
I figured I couldn't be the only one trying to do this, glad it helped you out!
Exactly the video I was looking for. Thank You brother.
Glad to help man!
Great video.
I may need to be doing this soon.
Thank you!
Glad to help!
Thanks mate it's very very informative, may God bless you sir...
Glad to help, God Bless you too
Thank you, I receive sir ..
Great video ,thank you
Glad to help!
Great video sir! I subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Good and right level
Thanks
Glad to help man!
Great video! Next time to make the work faster don’t uninstall the tandem pump, leave it in place you can remove the camshaft without any issue.
Thanks! I like to use the back of the cam to insure the cam is at TDC that way, and the kit comes with a new seal anyways. But you are right, it would go faster for sure!
same here. i subscribed. i have been on the fence about doing both for some time. Shops dont want to work on mk5 with 400k miles on it. thanks
Yes it is getting hard to work on these cars when the shop bill is often more than the car itself is worth to most people
@@TDISwaps shouldn't be the shops worry imho, if i were a mechanic i would straight up tell people "it will probably cost more than you'd like to pay" and if he still wants it, shop should fix it no questions asked.
good for me that i DIY my maintenance so i can only complain for the cost of parts, and VW's engineers
@@Juppie902 ha ha definitely! Those VW engineers could use a talking to
Great video mate. Your skills are fantastic. I am learner and learning things bit by bit. Increasing the size of my tool box too lol. I have an audi a3 tdi 1.9tdi pd engine here in UK . I want to change the timing belt on it myself however the only thing that really confuses me is to lock the cam and crank with the tool at the bottom and the pin that goes in the cam.
Yeah I usually haven't locked the cam but you can use anything to market and line it up straight, as long as you are close once you get it back together and check that torsion value in vcds that will tell you if you got it off a little or not and you can adjust it then. You can honestly just paint marker the crank and the cam and then readjust it with vcds after it's running again.
@@TDISwaps Thanks for the reply. My audi a3 tdi 1.9tdi is my first diesel car. I never have had any diesel car before. I am trying to learn things as most of the mechanics here are just complete rip off. My car is leaking oil from the rear of the engine and its coming from the top to bottom. I have been underneath it and my guess is either it is head gasket or the rubber seal in the tanderum pump on the right side of the engine head. The turbo seems fine as there are no codes on the dash board and it also drives fine. The car also doesn't heat up the way it should. The temperature gauge barely goes to take 10 clock mark. I am sure its the thermostat and temperature sensor which are toast. Thats not a big job though however this oil leak seems to me something serious .
@@mumtazzafar1576 well actually that's a great thing to replace during the timing belt because then you can see that the cam is lined up correctly with the tandem pump off, I would order up a seal for it as it's a very common leak spot.
@@TDISwaps Thanks very much for the reply
@@mumtazzafar1576 no problem at all!
Excellent how to buddy, New to your channel👍
Thanks man! Trying to do more of these, its hard to remember to video it all.
@@TDISwaps yeah man do more big fan of the TDI pd, need to do the cam in the caddy soon
I wonder how hard it would be to do an in frame rebuild on this engine. Pull head and oil pan. Break the cylinder glaze with a ball hone. Add new rings and bearings and fresh head and new turbo.
Back in the day Kerma used to offer a hardened sport cam for the BRM with the updated lifters and Malone tuning offered a bit of a performance tune. I think the PD140 turbos bolt right on as well.
Yup all that stuff is still available and I have seen many in frame rebuilds done 👍
Ok, I used one of the three bolts that are around the 18mm to hold it from moving with one ratchet and socket and at the same time losen the 18mm with the other ratchet
There you go, there's always multiple ways to do most of this stuff
What a fantastic video. Really like the detail.
I need to change my camshaft vw 1.9 caddy 2008.
Just a question regarding timing
The belt and coolant pump was done 6 years ago. So by just locking the crankshaft and making sure the lobes on cylinder 1 are facing upwards (not engage) should be enough not to effect the timing. But once I get the project car running I'll get the timing tested again from a mechanic. Thanks in advanced
Yes locking the crank would be fine to just change the camshaft, I would inspect the belt really well though even at 6 years old it may show signs of wear and be safe for to replace. And thanks for watching!
@@TDISwaps Yep if I've gone this far, its not unreasonable to replace the timing belt. And the water pump. The car has been sitting on the street for more than 2 years. I've already dumped the old fuel.
Priceless video thanks. Just makes my job so much easier. What symptoms did you get that made you decide to change your cam.
This car started thumping very loud through the intake, and with the valve cover off, you could see the hole in the lifter was huge. But my other car almost sounded normal even with half worn lobes on the cam. If at all in questions just go look to be safe! And I'm glad to help!
@@TDISwaps I will pull the cover and take a look. the cams on these TDIs are actually the only bad design that you could throw at them. Very weak Cams. In your opinion, are the hardened and non OEM custom cams much better. I just get dead links from forums linking to these supposedly better cams. ?
Again, thanks a lot. this is how videos should be done.
@@pensive_ I did the hardened stock cam, not too much of an investment. The performance cams aren't really needed until much higher HP builds. I don't have enough mileage on my cam swaps yet to really give good feedback though.
@@TDISwaps You didnt get hesitation at higher revvs? A worn cam can among others, causes this issue. It is this issue that brought me to your video.
@@pensive_ no unfortunately worn cams affect overall power some, but usually don't cause hesitations. That can be turbo related if you don't have any codes
I replaced the camshaft and lifters in 2006 tdi and have been driving the car the last few days. Im having a problem with a longggg crank til it starts after sitting over night. It cranks over for about 45 seconds before starting. I replaced the tandem pump gasket. Any ideas?
Did you check the cam timing (torsion valve) with vcds? The cam sensor can cause long starts as well as a leak in the tandem pump seal.
Great video. ..is there a torque specs for the bolts. Thx.
I have read multiple specs online but it's best to get a manual if you want to be exact. I kinda left it up to you on that, I don't actually use a wrench 🤷
Hello, I am looking at doing this job on my TDI and was wondering how the Cam has been holding up. I am thinking about buying the kit you used and want to confirm it worked out for you.
I haven't gone back to check it yet, only have about 6k miles on it, but the car is running great. Best mpg it's seen since the tune and cam.
I just bought a 2006 version Jetta tdi 1.9l new to this side of the Diesel world had lots of pickup but I have no idea what to look for to fix maintain or change could u give me some insight on this car thanks Troy
Checking the cam, keeping up on timing belts, and doing tranny flushes are the big things. Everything else can be fixed as it becomes an issue.
Thanks for the video. After watching this I went ahead and pulled my cam out and it is very worn and even had a hole worn through one of the lifters. I seemed to have another issue with my injector rockers. There was pice of a loose metal lodged between the two rocker rails. I have read something about oil galley plugs on some forums? It looks like the piece came out of the opening on the end of one the rockers rails and the other rocker is empty inside the same opening. Do you think my issue is in fact oil plugs on the rocker rails and if so is there any way I can re use them or should I except to order new ones.
Sounds like you can have the rockers made to hold a better plug or even glue the original plugs in, either way would fix it
@@TDISwaps Awesome, thanks for the help!
@@tylerhogan9897 no problem man!
I figured it out the cam cap bolt holes were filled with oil it took the head bolts out. Opps. Breaking it in now
I was wondering if you didn't accidentally take out the head bolts, sorry man. Glad you got it though!
@@TDISwaps yeah since I took them out i fucked the head gasket so thats on the list now😭😭😭😅
Good evening! I have followed you’re video in the past to do a timing belt and camshaft replacement on a 2006 brm. I now have 2004 bew that I’m about to do the timing belt and camshaft replacement on. I have not been able to find a video for the bew like the one you made, can I follow this video for the bew as well are there some differences to the procedure that I need to be aware of?
The only difference may be the motor mount on the side, other than that I just did the BEW in my Chevy swap and it was identical!
@@TDISwaps thanks for the reply awesome I will be following this video again. Awesome videos by the way keep up the good content!
Glad to help man!
Valve cover can be pulled without removing the egr if necessary. Otherwise great video
Not sure what my deal was but it sure wouldn't come past that valve, but maybe it's just mine, thanks for the tip!
I have an 06 tdi with 270, 000 miles. It died at an intersection. Towed it home, checked the timing belt, it is missing teeth. Checked the crank timing it is one tooth off. What to check next? Should I put a new timing belt kit in or go further?
I would probably say do a timing belt then a compression test
I know its an old video but what were the symptoms of the worn cam and lifters? Also how many miles were on the car?
I've replaced 5 of these now, a thumping from the intake is a common indicator, but mostly it's best to just pull the valve cover and check, it comes off so easy and then you aren't wondering. I've replaced them anywhere from 165k to 270k, and one I have is still good at 280k, there doesn't seem to be any reason why some go bad and some don't. Multiple bad ones were using correct oil the entire time.
about to do this on my wifes 06' 165k miles, seems like 160k-170k is when these go.
It seems to vary greatly, I've seen them junk at 155k and then one made it 245k. I don't know if there is any way of preventing it
Hey great video very helpful! Just one question, I attempted the camshaft replacement today but got stuck when I tried to put the new camshaft caps back on. It seems the cam itself won't seat properly far enough down for all the caps to mate with the head. I didn't want to torque too hard and force the cam down but can't figure out why it won't seat properly. The crank is 90° CCW from tdc so I can't imagine the valves are pressing against anything. It will fit on one side but the other has a lobe pressing against the lifter without it depressing so it sits proud about 1/4 inch. Thoughts on this? Also I am a big newb btw so be gentle😉 Cheers!
You are just feeling the cam lobes needing to partially push down some of the valves, no worries there, any lobes that are in a downward direction will have to compress the lifters under them some while bolting it down... Just use caps 2 and 4 to slowly alternate tighten the cam down, then finish with the rest.
@@TDISwaps Ah great thanks for the reply dude, I'll try that today and see how we go🤙
No worries man!
Hey so got it all in and it worked like a charm... For a second, I've somehow tripped the immobilizer and it shuts down right away. Any idea how to fix that or do I have to have a dealer take care of it? Thanks again!
@@MrChriswms check your codes, I bet you have a camshaft signal code. If the cam is just a little out of spec it will cause a start and then shut off as a preventative measure but acts just like immobilizer, you need to slightly adjust the cam timing to get it back in spec, usually -.5 to -1.5 is ideal
Great video! But I'd rather hear somebody puking on loop than the music you choose.
Thanks for the feedback man if it was easy to go back and change it I would, the free music selection is pretty limited when you're starting out
Hie..Im replacing the camshaft and lifters on my 2007 Jetta TDI BXE but i forgot to number the caps for the cam.can something bad happen if i mix them up 🤦🏽♂️.also can you tell me if the break in process is necessary.Thanks in advance
The cap order should not technically matter for the center ones, only the front and back SHOULD matter, I was more being safe than anything. The only common break in procedure I have found is to use break in oil and run the engine at 2000RPM for 20 minutes, then change oil/filter and run for 500 miles then replace oil/filter again and you are good to go. Some people have skipped that but I try to do it.
@@TDISwaps thanks a lot mate
@@daddypopes Glad to help!
Where are you located? I'd like to hire you to do this job on a 2006 Jetta TDI I have. 119K on the clock, snap crackle, popping, but still running strong.
Unfortunately I don't really have time currently, I'm also in the middle of nowhere Wheatland, WY haha.
How did you loose the 18mm camshaft bolt. It rotates when I'm trying to turn it loose
I do it with the timing belt on still and not locked, and usually a firm tap on the ratchet will break it loose, you may turn the engine over a little bit it should get stiff enough to loosen the bolt that way
Hi , at what mileage you replaced the camshaft of your engine ? .
This engine had 177k on it but the cam was probably needing replaced even at 170k. It was very bad when I took it apart
What is the cam break-in procedure? Is it the same as any flat tappet cam?
I've only read about the 2000 RPM for 20 min so that's all I ever do
Did you remove the springs from your INA nitride lifters or leave the springs in place
I left them in, I think you only take them out for the older ALH
@@TDISwaps thank you!
@@dexterj490 no problem man!
Did you have to remove the motor Mount to get the tensioner out?
I unscrewed the center tensioner bolt and was able to slide it out sideways
Did you remove the springs from the black Ina nitride lifters?
I didn't, I think that's only needed with the older VE engines
@@TDISwaps Geoff at colt camshaft told me to do it on my 05 pd. Was still hesitant to do so. Still haven't fired it up.
@@dexterj490 well mine is working fine with them in, but I'm also not sure that I got the black lifters with this kit
How do you go about breaking sprocket bolt loose on cam? Thanks
I tried to make it clear in the video but I break that loose first thing before removing the timing belt, taps on it while the engine turns over slightly usually breaks it loose
@@TDISwaps ok great thanks I’ll try that basically tap ratchet with hammer? And for re-torque do you need a special tool?
@@Mightyeldoso I just use a big breaker bar to break it loose maybe tapping it with my hand, then the last thing I do is pull any locks and torque the cam bolt letting the engine turn over a little if needed
Can you attach the link for the kit I want to do the same to mine
I can't find that kit I used anymore, but you can still piece it together from fpceuro.com and cascadegerman.com. they sell kits as well but they are a little higher priced than just the basics
I didnt see you use a dial indicator on the injector backlash. Is that something you did
I did not mess with the injectors other than checking the quality on vcds, they were all in spec so there was no need. Usually not an issue unless they are already out of spec or you actually change the injectors.
If you move tye injectors from tye cam then you have to do backlash.
I have done this 5 times now without issue, checking backlash is the best method, but it's clearly not required or I would have issues by now I would think
The tandem pumps needs any timing ? Or it goes in only one way
No timing needed, its just a fuel pump that's mechanical instead of like an electric tank pump. It will only go in when the cam slot is lined up with the pump keyway though
@@TDISwaps wouldn't be easier to do the timing if you d remove the motor mount and af reservoir ?
@@gigimarfa877 it may give you some room, but its also kind of a pain to remove
Is this the same for a BEW TDI?
It should be almost all the same
You mentioned about the orientation of the 3 cam bolts but I didn't see how you oriented the cam pulley and sprocket. Does it matter as long as the cam stays in the right position with the crank locked?
Sorry about that, the cam sprocket has a grove it goes into on the cam, so it can only go on one way, then set it to TDC with the #1 lobes pointing up and the vacuum pump grove parallel to the head. At that point you can loosen the 3 bolts and install the belt. Does that make sense?
@@TDISwaps The sprocket goes over the pulley right? and it's the pulley that has the keyed groove? So once I get the pulley on aligned in the groove and tighten the middle bolt, the sprocket fits over it only one way? and is held in place by the 3 smaller bolts? I guess my question is about the positioning of the sprocket - does it just need to line up with the holes in the pulley? Do I leave the 3 bolts slightly loose so that I can rotate it slightly to get the timing belt on it?
@@richardferrell1046 that's all correct, with a good cam you can mark/lock the pulley at TDC and not remove the tandem pump, that'd the point of the 3 smaller bolts. but with a new cam just tighten the bigger center bolt, and keep the 3 smaller bolts loose to be able to adjust the sprocket to the center of the bolt slots so that cam timing can be adjusted later with vcds
@@TDISwaps You video is the best I've seen. It's a little more work but I like that you removed the fuel pump because you're supposed to crank the engine for a few seconds to build up oil pressure before engine starts running. If I'm not replacing the timing belt and hardware (replaced about 40K miles ago), do I only need to remove the tensioner to take the timing belt off?
@@richardferrell1046 thanks, as long as you can get the belt off without using any pry bars or anything that might damage it you'll be fine it's just the easiest to get it off if you take it off with the tensioner but I'm sure it can be done with the tensioner in place you just want to make sure you don't nick it or something with a screwdriver trying to get it off or back on
Do you have to remove the engine mount?
No sir, 04+ they routed the belt around the mount so it doesn't need taken out
@@TDISwaps sweet im doing the cam on my brm right now!
Any advice
@@littlelouievs I tried to make it pretty detailed, just take your time and you'll get it
This video was a great walkthrough. You were clear and gave great tips and good video. My only complaint was the music. I'm not saying I felt autistic or turned lesbian, gay, or trans from it. It's just incremental poisoning that eventually if I hear too much crap I'll become suicidal possibly.
Lol I'm sorry the music was so bad, I'm definitely learning this whole TH-cam thing still, and without big investments I'm stuck with the free music my editing software offers.
Does anyone know why the cam bearing caps won't come off the head.
I just used a screwdriver to carefully pry under the sides of them and they popped up and out
@@TDISwaps where did you pry it from I can't find a good spot. And is the head supposed to come loose?
@@littlelouievs no the head should not be loose, there is part of the bearing that hangs over the lifters and thats where I pry at to pop them out
@@TDISwaps im in need of help. The head came loose when I took the cam bearing cap bolts off. I'm not sure what I have done...
@@littlelouievs you didnt loosen the cam bearing caps, you loosened the head bolts on accident. I just made the same mistake had to do a headgasket.
Do you still have this car ?
Yes I do
You forgot to adjust the injectors
That shouldn't have changed, and they all tested good in vcds so they should be fine, but it is a option if you want.
There are so many small steps missing like setting the cam to top, and torque settings. I'd not be surprised you killed and damaged the inteference engine. People Get a manual and stop follow these fly by night wanna be mechanic videos. If you are not gong to do it right stop posting these videos. You are just going to get people in a worst situation and destroy an engine
I showed you how to set to TDC sir, and looking up torque specs is not hard. Sorry you don't approve, but thanks for watching anyways. I have done 10 now like this without issue and personally helped over 20 others that have running engines now. You are more than welcome to make a better video and include all that stuff if it worries you, but I'm gonna keep helping people my own way.