BRILLIANT!! I have been a Volvo man for many years and know them inside out! Just bought a cheap Transporter to build a luxury camper but the power keeps dying? So now I have to learn all about these engines! My mate is the chairman of the VW Transporter owners club and told me about this fault they all get. thank you!
BE VERY CAREFUL! For instance I know someone who ended up paying a Main Dealer £3,500 to cure an intermittent Limp Home problem. Parts changed were injectors - but that didn't do it! On the next visit they changed the camshaft! (why?) but that didn't do it! The cylinder head was then changed but that didn't do it either! Next they replaced the turbo.but the vehicle was still the same. Eventually they did cure the problem but they would not say what they had done! I would guess that they replaced the injector wiring harness and its cradle because on the 110 BHP VAG 1.9 turbo-diesel these are service items. Allegedly the intense vibration can make the conductors crack inside the plastic so the wiring loom should be replaced every 30,000 miles. Not many people know that but it really is no joke when a customer ends up paying $5000 for what is basically the Main Dealer's DIY apprenticeship scheme. Take care!.
+Jane Gerrard A real beauty of cack-handedness was when a lady drove her VW Passat turbo diesel to the local HGV service station for some advice. "My engine is making a funny noise" she said. The HGV mechanics were all ready to dive in but the boss said hold your horses. He asked whether any work had been done on the car recently. "Oh yes" was the answer "the garage put a new cam-belt in it." Right he said. What you have got to do is take the car back and tell them to do the job properly. Its the age old problem of "Can't get the right staff anymore!" Other horror stories have been to do with Emissions particularly with petrol driven vehicles. In one case a perfectly good car was scrapped after a bozo "mechanic" swapped the catalytic converter. A great deal of money was spent for nothing as the emissions were exactly the same after the cat costing £180 ($250) had been changed. The owner of the car didn't want any more bills like that so for the car it was Game Over. At the time there was a scrappage scheme to get rid of thirsty clunkers but the new car used more fuel than the old one! With emissions faults favorites should be spark plugs, HT leads (the carbon string type really ought to be changed after two years or 30,000 miles) air filter and especially the front oxygen sensor/Lambda sensor. If the emission failure is excess oxides of nitrogen, suspect a higher than normal burn temperature. Running ever so slightly lean will do this. If the car has a MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) that employs an electrically heated wire to measure the flow, the fault may be the odd milligram of dirt, dust, oil or pollen burnt onto the hot-wire. In England the clever solution is to use a kids paint-brush and oven cleaner. One removes the MAF then carefully paints oven cleaner onto the wire. Leave overnight. In the morning rinse the MAF wire with water then shake out any excess water. Refit to car, emissions now perfect, cost just pennies and time. Incidentally scanning the car is a waste of time and money with this fault as the ECU (computer) doesn't know! It is in fact the old Golden Rule of computers, RUBBISH IN = RUBBISH OUT. To sum up, those who are not savvy are likely to be hit with bills for all manner of spare parts which are not needed. It could even be a case of fraud if the used parts which were perfectly OK end up being sold online. Take care!
Pretty nice video. I got my turbo checked after I got overboost error. It had over .8 bar boost over the demanded boost. The turbo geometry wasnt working properly, i had some oil in the compresor, but not a huge amount and the scroll was hard to move by hand, it was stuck at the first glance. I got it upgraded to gt2052v and it's a day and night different, cannot wait to get back in my car tomorrow.
Thank you so much. Your video was just what I have been searching for. I have an under boost on my VW Amarok BiTurbo, triggering Limp Mode. This video explains it very well.
many thanks for an informative video. Volvo I just got is the first car I've had with a VNT (& im getting turbo related fault code),it's good to know what I'm dealing with before stripping down & a video is worth a thousand words
Hi guys I am flitting a hx 40 turbo set up on a audi b6 tdi wih holset hx need some information on the set up really Will appreciate all the information thx
Thank you so much for the valuable information I’ve been working with vw,Audi and just now getting the idea of how’s the new turbo work Thank you again Very professional 👍
This guys a genius. Makes it look way easier than it is. So how do you take the turbo out, dismantle it like that, clean it, fix / solve the limp mode problem then put it all back together? Do you run a garage, if so where are you located?
Thanks for the reply did you do this your self or was it a garage. Currently my actuator screw had halve a thread left before falling off. Unable to find a detailed drawing to tell me where it needs to go
@@declandermott5300 hi, yeah I did it myself took it off the car and disassembled, cleaned and put back together with a new vnt ring as it was also starting to wear, not the easiest job as it was quite tight to get out from the back of the engine, had to drop it out underneath the car. Sorry I’m not sure about the actuator adjustment I didn’t need to touch that.
So I’m pretty sure the exhaust blows around the outer shell and when the veins open, the flow is basically shot directly into the turbo fins to build boost fast. In the video you stated they close to build boost and open to divert around which is how a normal turbo works.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing this. Question about the 4 - 10mm bolts that surround the housing of the control ring... they dont seem to hold the two parts of the turbo together.. i broke off two of them by accident and was still able to open up my turbo for a well deserved clean.. but now i wonder what their function is
What a FANTASTIC video!!! I am dealing with a 2005 2.0L TDi Passat with weird running conditions that are being affected by the turbo. What year and engine size turbo are you working on in this video?
re researching intermitt powerloss w no fault codes... thought it was intercooler water/ice, because all cold-starts are rough and sputter, but recent hose drain+inspection didnt show water or ice. there's a sound variation when accelerating that sounds like turbo or exhaust are being intermittently blocked or modulated aggressively. not happy with local dealer and mechanics.
Nice video! Loved how well spoken you are. I hate watching someone explain something and every other word is uhm….uhm….uhm…. thanks for the great video.
the vanes alter there incline towards the turbine wheels it is not altering the amount of flow to the turbo. the most efficient angle on to the turbinewheel alters with the speed of the turbine (stall on airplane wings).
Great video! When I shift gears on my ALH it hesitates for every bit of 2 to 4 seconds then I get a sudden surge of power. Should I take my turbo apart and clean it?
I have an issue with My mk 4 Golf TDI 110bhp model....I can accelerate hard and every now again the turbo just dies...as soon as I switch off and restart it's fine again?? Ive changed the Boost/vacuum sensor which sits on the bulkhead and I've replaced the map sensor on the intercooler pipe but it hasn't changed . I've also removed the Eye valve too.
Can a sticky VNT cause high DPF pressure. I have mine cleaned and reads 40 mb to 300 on high revs & the soot goes up like crzy as revs goes up. I dont know what else to check. Thanks
Hoping you can help me out. I have a 2011 Audi a3 tdi and have code p0299 underboost. Audi replaced the turbo about 1000 miles ago due to failure. The car drives perfectly when the temperature is below 40f outside, but as soon as the weather gets warmer, I start getting issues. The car will take off from a stop and all of a sudden surge with a little power, then throw the glow plug light into limp mode. I've tested the boost actuator, it holds vacuum, tested the solenoid when running and it shows vacuum. I can't visually see cracks in any pipes, but am unsure of how to do a boost leak test. This car has had multiple egr and dpf issues in the past that audi has been unable to fix. Any ideas as to what I should do? I'm tired of going into limp mode on the freeway and having to shut the car off and restart.... Thank you so much for the videos!!!
Yousay in limp mode the vanes are open and boost is reduced. I thought if they were open it would create maximum boost, but as I've never stripped a VNT, I'm not sure if I've understood the mechanics of the system. I'm going to have to get hold of one and have a play, but in the meantime, can you put me right please. Good video though.
Thanks for the explanation. I keep getting overboost then limp mode. Can this be due to not enough vacuum/faulty vacuum pump? I have a Garret Turbo on a BKD VW Golf Mk5. How can I check I have the correct vacuum to operate the turbo?
could these be the issue. my engine does this weird thing where near max load it accelerates faster when the throttle is not pushed in all the way. its not the sensor. i tested it and it read 100% when the pedal was pushed to max. i believe its either that or a faulty injector but my soot emission levels are so low that i believe the injectors are good. the intake valves would use some walnut cleaning but that doesnt really explain it
So a boost actuator mounted the other way around does the same thing if I understand this correctly. I'm planning on making a VNT turbo car without electronics..
I have a 2011 1.6TDI polo 6R and i have just has the exhaust wheel break off the shaft and jammed itself well in the housing. Funny thing is the compressor wheel and shaft turn free by hand and there is no oil leaking either. Do you know where i can get a replacement turbo?
What size vacuum hose is that for the VGT? My jetta has been idling rough after driving for an hour. Runs great when just starting out the day. But after an hour its rough idle, i have no check engine codes and believe its bad vacuum lines.
Hi. I have the exact turbo on my car after reconditioned id myself i have a problem with the acuator as the top bolt of the acuator have some small gap to the turbo arm so i had to apply vacuum to the acuator a bit for the top bolt reach the turbo arm . I have installed the turbo back to my vw passat b6 and drove for around 5 miles with no issues but now it go's to limp mode sometime and showing the fault code P2563 turbo charger boost control position sensor A circuit Range/ performances. And making a bit of noise once accelerate.i tested my acuator and hold vacuum very weel but i know i installed the acuator wrong. I woud appreciated if you make a video how to fit the acuator . Any help appreciated. Thanks for your video
Hi I'm having a similar limp mode problem, except it works some times when I start it and other times not. Of the problems you explained which could be the most likely?
Finaly someone that presents a vnt without inside torque screws for the vnt mechanism so it can easily be removed and cleaned. But how to dismantle and clean them?
If you wanted to use a vgt on an engine that did not originally come with such a turbo, how would you go about controlling the vanes to achieve maximum boos throughout the rev range?
First and foremost good informative vid! I think mine is the last sign of fails. Hesitation and the acceleration. Not super obvious to be rough but feel able. The Audi is 240k is cleaning the VNT will do the job? THX
How you set it to be like fully open at certain RPM. Where it get the information from? It got something like controller or so? Also how do those vanes limit the speed of the turbo.. You said that when they are fully open the exhaust gasses are slown.. Is there a chance to not be slown enough ?
Sorry out off topic , I have 2015 ford ranger T6 2.2 4 cylinder turbo diesel engine my problem is when I hit almost a 100 kph a strange chain like sound ( like dragging chains on cement floor very fast ) and it stops when pass 100 kph . What do you think was that sound ? Thanks alot for helping us :)
This is an interesting video very informative. I have a question and I really can't decide what my car problem is. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona 2.9L TCI Diesel Engine and one time after a stop for an intersection, the vehicle does not respond anymore to my gas pedal. After several on and off the HOLD light suddenly flashes. Is this consider a lymph mode also? And I notice that the air coming in to my turbo is not that strong anymore not like before that my hand sticks on the hoses whenever i cover it up but now it's too weak. Could this also be the problem? Thank you so much, I wish I could hear from you soon.
Am i right ? more vacuum means more boost ? I have install new actuator, and i get boost at approx 2000rpm, i think the boost should come approx 1600rpm, maybe i can adjust on this rod ? (No error codes)
Initially, the P2457 code came up. I drove a while without addressing the problem. On the way home from AZ, my turbo would cut out showing turbo problem (code 12--blinking). I was able to turn off the engine and it''d reset and drive normal for a while. No sure what to do. Any suggestions?
Hi you did not mentioned the position sensor and associated wiring that causes fault code and low power I work on vw every day I can fix the actuator on a vnt 15,17 or kp-39 but no answer for the stock turbo on the BRM engine like you have in the video and the actuator is pretty hard to remove in place in the car the motor and Turbo you have for a display was quite clean it must had no millage. ho and I almost forgot the white and black check valve is important and the VP on ALH tend to leak
Hello. Just got my vnt cleaned on my b6 passat bkp engine with dsg because of overboosting as vnt was stuck. How can i prevent this from happening again ? I usually drive around town. Do i need to redline it often to work the vnt vanes ? Or just regular driving is enough ?
Hey, i'm 17 yrs old and i will get an VW Golf 4 TDI. I'm in the beginning of my study's of car mechanics, and the car that i get has something wrong with the turbo, but that's the only thing i know. What are the things i should check when i get my car?? thanks..
Hi.!... this is very nice video, what do you think about a Eurovan diesel 2007 the turbo was changed (just the "cartridge") but now it wont go up of 3000rmps?
My vw tdi is having boost problems in first and second gear I'm getting decent boost but very loud noise when I shift and third and up the boost is in and out with constant throttle it will build power and feels like losses all boost and then comes back in and right back out
Can this cause a p0400 (p0400-5 exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected) on a Vectra b 2000 x20dtl ? Can't find any vacuum leaks, egr replaced. Intake cleaned.
Very helpful thank you. Is it possible to clock/rotate the compressor housing on a Garrett gt2052v that has vnt? Or can it not be done because of the actuator and vnt system? Thank you!
bonjour esque la valeur de pression qui fait bouger la tige c'est la même à la sortie du turbo ? Je veut dire pression a point de début déplacement de tige =Pression de soufflement turbo?
Hello don't spose you could help. I've fitted a borg warner instead of a garret now I've seen ur vids I've relised whats wrong and I swap the turbo actuators over or are they veins working the opersit way thanks
how can i know if my turbo fail without strip down from my car?? sometimes i fell the power after 2100-2200rpm sometimes works below 2000 rpm.i hear the sound when is activated when is in no gear...someone says that my turbo don't works fine becouse the hose that goes to turbo are not so hard when i make presure with hand.any advice?? thx
Diesel engines have glow plugs and no spark plugs. Diesel engines use pressure to combust the fuel mix but it needs help to do so the first time the car is started. The glow plugs heat up when you first turn the electrics on in a car to give an assist to the combustion. This symbol tells you they are on. Never start the engine until this symbol is no longer illuminated. When this symbols light goes out on the dash it means the glow plugs are at temperature and it is now safe to start the engine.
Most of the time vacuum solenoid failed, and brings torbo to overheat and failed, I just bought a replacement turbo cartridge of the eBay and fix my turbo , but the problem was turbo actuator vacuum solenoid failure.
Excellent. Clear, concise and to the point. Why can't all instructional videos be like this?
BRILLIANT!! I have been a Volvo man for many years and know them inside out! Just bought a cheap Transporter to build a luxury camper but the power keeps dying? So now I have to learn all about these engines! My mate is the chairman of the VW Transporter owners club and told me about this fault they all get. thank you!
thanks dude. very clear. to quote Albert Einstein "If you can't explain something clearly to your Grandmother, you don't understand it yourself"..
what if she has bad hearing
Not quite correct, but you are close enough
“If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't understand it yourself.”
― Albert Einstein
@@TriangleSquare52 shout
I haven't heard that one, very good.
First time I have seen that clear and well lighted with perfect sound, most of all very very good informative video. Thanks
BE VERY CAREFUL! For instance I know someone who ended up paying a Main Dealer £3,500 to cure an intermittent Limp Home problem. Parts changed were injectors - but that didn't do it! On the next visit they changed the camshaft! (why?) but that didn't do it! The cylinder head was then changed but that didn't do it either! Next they replaced the turbo.but the vehicle was still the same. Eventually they did cure the problem but they would not say what they had done! I would guess that they replaced the injector wiring harness and its cradle because on the 110 BHP VAG 1.9 turbo-diesel these are service items. Allegedly the intense vibration can make the conductors crack inside the plastic so the wiring loom should be replaced every 30,000 miles. Not many people know that but it really is no joke when a customer ends up paying $5000 for what is basically the Main Dealer's DIY apprenticeship scheme. Take care!.
+Jane Gerrard A real beauty of cack-handedness was when a lady drove her VW Passat turbo diesel to the local HGV service station for some advice. "My engine is making a funny noise" she said. The HGV mechanics were all ready to dive in but the boss said hold your horses. He asked whether any work had been done on the car recently. "Oh yes" was the answer "the garage put a new cam-belt in it." Right he said. What you have got to do is take the car back and tell them to do the job properly.
Its the age old problem of "Can't get the right staff anymore!" Other horror stories have been to do with Emissions particularly with petrol driven vehicles. In one case a perfectly good car was scrapped after a bozo "mechanic" swapped the catalytic converter. A great deal of money was spent for nothing as the emissions were exactly the same after the cat costing £180 ($250) had been changed. The owner of the car didn't want any more bills like that so for the car it was Game Over. At the time there was a scrappage scheme to get rid of thirsty clunkers but the new car used more fuel than the old one!
With emissions faults favorites should be spark plugs, HT leads (the carbon string type really ought to be changed after two years or 30,000 miles) air filter and especially the front oxygen sensor/Lambda sensor. If the emission failure is excess oxides of nitrogen, suspect a higher than normal burn temperature. Running ever so slightly lean will do this. If the car has a MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) that employs an electrically heated wire to measure the flow, the fault may be the odd milligram of dirt, dust, oil or pollen burnt onto the hot-wire. In England the clever solution is to use a kids paint-brush and oven cleaner. One removes the MAF then carefully paints oven cleaner onto the wire. Leave overnight. In the morning rinse the MAF wire with water then shake out any excess water. Refit to car, emissions now perfect, cost just pennies and time. Incidentally scanning the car is a waste of time and money with this fault as the ECU (computer) doesn't know! It is in fact the old Golden Rule of computers, RUBBISH IN = RUBBISH OUT.
To sum up, those who are not savvy are likely to be hit with bills for all manner of spare parts which are not needed. It could even be a case of fraud if the used parts which were perfectly OK end up being sold online. Take care!
Tech Davey trust car dealers said no one ever
Don't trust VW
U can send any turbo genuine from india $1500
That was what I was looking for. Peace be with you. Thank you for the explanation.
Thanks for a clear explanation without taking ages.
lovely !! this material is simply fantastic. i just made my turbo work 2 days ahead your video. thank you!
Pretty nice video. I got my turbo checked after I got overboost error. It had over .8 bar boost over the demanded boost. The turbo geometry wasnt working properly, i had some oil in the compresor, but not a huge amount and the scroll was hard to move by hand, it was stuck at the first glance. I got it upgraded to gt2052v and it's a day and night different, cannot wait to get back in my car tomorrow.
Thank you so much for explaining this I have had several problems and this now makes it clear THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO SHARE THIS
How did you fix the several problems
@@Maxim.Teleguz I sold it !
Great video, just getting started playing with VW tdi, really appreciate concise, information dense videos.
Thanks for sharing. I now understand perfectly how the VNT works. It can't be clearer than this.
Thank you so much. Your video was just what I have been searching for. I have an under boost on my VW Amarok BiTurbo, triggering Limp Mode. This video explains it very well.
That's awesome it reminds me of the verbal output transmission fluid pump in a 4L60E automatic transmission. Awesome video!!
many thanks for an informative video. Volvo I just got is the first car I've had with a VNT (& im getting turbo related fault code),it's good to know what I'm dealing with before stripping down & a video is worth a thousand words
Hi guys I am flitting a hx 40 turbo set up on a audi b6 tdi wih holset hx need some information on the set up really Will appreciate all the information thx
Thank you so much for the valuable information
I’ve been working with vw,Audi and just now getting the idea of how’s the new turbo work
Thank you again
Very professional 👍
This guys a genius. Makes it look way easier than it is. So how do you take the turbo out, dismantle it like that, clean it, fix / solve the limp mode problem then put it all back together? Do you run a garage, if so where are you located?
One time my intercooler pipe got a hole in it and I experienced power loss. Took quite a while to find! I was glad it wasn't the turbo!
Just goes to show how amazing the turbo actually is good video bro
Interesting video, my vw tdi is being thrown into limp mode almost daily now because of overboost, will be taking it off soon and checking it out.
Hi did you find the source to your problem as mine is now doing this !
@@declandermott5300 yes it was the turbo vanes sticking due to carbon build up, either need to clean it or refurbish/replace the turbo
Thanks for the reply did you do this your self or was it a garage. Currently my actuator screw had halve a thread left before falling off. Unable to find a detailed drawing to tell me where it needs to go
@@declandermott5300 hi, yeah I did it myself took it off the car and disassembled, cleaned and put back together with a new vnt ring as it was also starting to wear, not the easiest job as it was quite tight to get out from the back of the engine, had to drop it out underneath the car. Sorry I’m not sure about the actuator adjustment I didn’t need to touch that.
Excellent video. Really logically explained with excellent detail. Thank you.
So I’m pretty sure the exhaust blows around the outer shell and when the veins open, the flow is basically shot directly into the turbo fins to build boost fast. In the video you stated they close to build boost and open to divert around which is how a normal turbo works.
probably the best video I've seen on here! did not know TDI was variable pitch turbo.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing this. Question about the 4 - 10mm bolts that surround the housing of the control ring... they dont seem to hold the two parts of the turbo together.. i broke off two of them by accident and was still able to open up my turbo for a well deserved clean.. but now i wonder what their function is
Another good video Chitty the forum has gone to crap since you sold the forum, your link doesn't work
How to adjust the stop screw then?
That’s what I want to know. Any luck?
Brilliant explaining... but what a high maintenance component... too complicated.
Excellent Video ! Its great to get clarity with such direct and accurate information. Thanks ! :)
What a FANTASTIC video!!! I am dealing with a 2005 2.0L TDi Passat with weird running conditions that are being affected by the turbo. What year and engine size turbo are you working on in this video?
Great video. Very informative & very well done. Thanks!
The N75 boost controller solenoid is another key part of the system that you did not mention at all.
thank you for posting this video.
Mine is in limp mode but you do hear the turbo spool up. it lacks a lot of power. 250K kms.
+1 subscribe from me. Information is simple, yet clear. And the guy gets straight to the point. Lovely.
Great video, explained all the things visually that i couldn't understand on text form. Thanks
Did the AHF tdi engine from VW use a VNT turbo?
The last part when you said it has hesitation would this cause a big judder at all? Really need help thanks in advance
glad I found this vid. super informative. troubleshooting intermittent power loss vw tdi '09. no cel/faults: only power fluctuations.
re researching intermitt powerloss w no fault codes... thought it was intercooler water/ice, because all cold-starts are rough and sputter, but recent hose drain+inspection didnt show water or ice. there's a sound variation when accelerating that sounds like turbo or exhaust are being intermittently blocked or modulated aggressively. not happy with local dealer and mechanics.
Did you figure out 4 years later? 😂
Nice video! Loved how well spoken you are. I hate watching someone explain something and every other word is uhm….uhm….uhm…. thanks for the great video.
Perfect video. Will help me to solve half of my car problems.
I rebuilded my turbo recently. Noticed the vaccum part didnt really hold pressure for long. What can happen from this?
Very Informative, I now know how to diagnose my problem, hopefully it's external to the turbo and not expensive!
the vanes alter there incline towards the turbine wheels it is not altering the amount of flow to the turbo. the most efficient angle on to the turbinewheel alters with the speed of the turbine (stall on airplane wings).
Full marks, sir. Excellent information and presentation quality!
is there a way to clean it whitout taking it off?
Excellent.
Where does the vacuum come from?
Thanks.
Great video! When I shift gears on my ALH it hesitates for every bit of 2 to 4 seconds then I get a sudden surge of power. Should I take my turbo apart and clean it?
Do you have a BOV?
awesome dude , got a stop screw problem found that out because of you , 5 star love
at 3:58, how can we find out what the proper setting for the stop screw should be? 99 MK4 ALH Jetta
I have an issue with My mk 4 Golf TDI 110bhp model....I can accelerate hard and every now again the turbo just dies...as soon as I switch off and restart it's fine again?? Ive changed the Boost/vacuum sensor which sits on the bulkhead and I've replaced the map sensor on the intercooler pipe but it hasn't changed .
I've also removed the Eye valve too.
How do I get the vanes cleaned? I have it apart like in the video but can't get the vanes moving freely. Wanted to take it apart but am stuck...
Can a sticky VNT cause high DPF pressure. I have mine cleaned and reads 40 mb to 300 on high revs & the soot goes up like crzy as revs goes up. I dont know what else to check. Thanks
My wolksvagen goes on limp mode every now and then I switch of and restart the car and it works fine do you think might be this the problem?
Thank you for another Great video ...
What are some common Diagnostic codes associated with this problem
Los alabes no llegan a cerrarse del todo? Simpre queda para que pasa aire?
Hoping you can help me out. I have a 2011 Audi a3 tdi and have code p0299 underboost. Audi replaced the turbo about 1000 miles ago due to failure. The car drives perfectly when the temperature is below 40f outside, but as soon as the weather gets warmer, I start getting issues. The car will take off from a stop and all of a sudden surge with a little power, then throw the glow plug light into limp mode. I've tested the boost actuator, it holds vacuum, tested the solenoid when running and it shows vacuum. I can't visually see cracks in any pipes, but am unsure of how to do a boost leak test. This car has had multiple egr and dpf issues in the past that audi has been unable to fix. Any ideas as to what I should do? I'm tired of going into limp mode on the freeway and having to shut the car off and restart.... Thank you so much for the videos!!!
Yousay in limp mode the vanes are open and boost is reduced. I thought if they were open it would create maximum boost, but as I've never stripped a VNT, I'm not sure if I've understood the mechanics of the system. I'm going to have to get hold of one and have a play, but in the meantime, can you put me right please. Good video though.
Thanks for the explanation. I keep getting overboost then limp mode. Can this be due to not enough vacuum/faulty vacuum pump? I have a Garret Turbo on a BKD VW Golf Mk5. How can I check I have the correct vacuum to operate the turbo?
could these be the issue. my engine does this weird thing where near max load it accelerates faster when the throttle is not pushed in all the way. its not the sensor. i tested it and it read 100% when the pedal was pushed to max. i believe its either that or a faulty injector but my soot emission levels are so low that i believe the injectors are good. the intake valves would use some walnut cleaning but that doesnt really explain it
I bought a new Mazda cx30 turbo, will I have to worry about this.
So a boost actuator mounted the other way around does the same thing if I understand this correctly. I'm planning on making a VNT turbo car without electronics..
I have a 2011 1.6TDI polo 6R and i have just has the exhaust wheel break off the shaft and jammed itself well in the housing. Funny thing is the compressor wheel and shaft turn free by hand and there is no oil leaking either. Do you know where i can get a replacement turbo?
What size vacuum hose is that for the VGT? My jetta has been idling rough after driving for an hour. Runs great when just starting out the day. But after an hour its rough idle, i have no check engine codes and believe its bad vacuum lines.
Hi.
I have the exact turbo on my car after reconditioned id myself i have a problem with the acuator as the top bolt of the acuator have some small gap to the turbo arm so i had to apply vacuum to the acuator a bit for the top bolt reach the turbo arm .
I have installed the turbo back to my vw passat b6 and drove for around 5 miles with no issues but now it go's to limp mode sometime and showing the fault code P2563 turbo charger boost control position sensor A circuit Range/ performances. And making a bit of noise once accelerate.i tested my acuator and hold vacuum very weel but i know i installed the acuator wrong. I woud appreciated if you make a video how to fit the acuator .
Any help appreciated. Thanks for your video
Hi I'm having a similar limp mode problem, except it works some times when I start it and other times not. Of the problems you explained which could be the most likely?
Once again, very good video and clear explanation of the subject. Thanks.
Finaly someone that presents a vnt without inside torque screws for the vnt mechanism so it can easily be removed and cleaned. But how to dismantle and clean them?
If you wanted to use a vgt on an engine that did not originally come with such a turbo, how would you go about controlling the vanes to achieve maximum boos throughout the rev range?
You can buy external controllers that come with a map sensor and vacuum solenoid. Then you can program in a custom map for your needs :)
First and foremost good informative vid! I think mine is the last sign of fails. Hesitation and the acceleration. Not super obvious to be rough but feel able. The Audi is 240k is cleaning the VNT will do the job? THX
How you set it to be like fully open at certain RPM. Where it get the information from? It got something like controller or so? Also how do those vanes limit the speed of the turbo.. You said that when they are fully open the exhaust gasses are slown.. Is there a chance to not be slown enough ?
Sorry out off topic , I have 2015 ford ranger T6 2.2 4 cylinder turbo diesel engine my problem is when I hit almost a 100 kph a strange chain like sound ( like dragging chains on cement floor very fast ) and it stops when pass 100 kph . What do you think was that sound ?
Thanks alot for helping us :)
I assume these are the turbos on an ALH TDI?
This is an interesting video very informative. I have a question and I really can't decide what my car problem is. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona 2.9L TCI Diesel Engine and one time after a stop for an intersection, the vehicle does not respond anymore to my gas pedal. After several on and off the HOLD light suddenly flashes. Is this consider a lymph mode also? And I notice that the air coming in to my turbo is not that strong anymore not like before that my hand sticks on the hoses whenever i cover it up but now it's too weak. Could this also be the problem? Thank you so much, I wish I could hear from you soon.
Am i right ? more vacuum means more boost ? I have install new actuator, and i get boost at approx 2000rpm, i think the boost should come approx 1600rpm, maybe i can adjust on this rod ? (No error codes)
Hi i came across a toyota hilux with this same issue 2010 hilux . Exhaust cabon built up in hot side around those vane
Initially, the P2457 code came up. I drove a while without addressing the problem. On the way home from AZ, my turbo would cut out showing turbo problem (code 12--blinking). I was able to turn off the engine and it''d reset and drive normal for a while. No sure what to do.
Any suggestions?
hey, how the hell you get the VNT ring out of one of these?
Well detailed video. I have a spare one that I will open up and check everything you pointed out.
Nice video, thank you. Made me understand what the issue is with my Crafter turbo.
Can i put normal turbo without VNT on 2.0 tdi BKD 103kw 16v pd engine VW
everything should have a turbo,great job,thanks dude!!!!!
Very good demonstration. Thanks for making this video. Thumbs up!
I think i just found out why my car loses power when i drive uphill. Thanks for the video
Is there a possibility to clean the residues of turbo without dismantling?
Hi you did not mentioned the position sensor and associated wiring that causes fault code and low power I work on vw every day I can fix the actuator on a vnt 15,17 or kp-39 but no answer for the stock turbo on the BRM engine like you have in the video and the actuator is pretty hard to remove in place in the car the motor and Turbo you have for a display was quite clean it must had no millage. ho and I almost forgot the white and black check valve is important and the VP on ALH tend to leak
Hello. Just got my vnt cleaned on my b6 passat bkp engine with dsg because of overboosting as vnt was stuck. How can i prevent this from happening again ? I usually drive
around town. Do i need to redline it often to work the vnt vanes ? Or just regular driving is enough ?
Hey, i'm 17 yrs old and i will get an VW Golf 4 TDI.
I'm in the beginning of my study's of car mechanics, and the car that i get has something wrong with the turbo, but that's the only thing i know. What are the things i should check when i get my car?? thanks..
Hi.!... this is very nice video, what do you think about a Eurovan diesel 2007 the turbo was changed (just the "cartridge") but now it wont go up of 3000rmps?
My vw tdi is having boost problems in first and second gear I'm getting decent boost but very loud noise when I shift and third and up the boost is in and out with constant throttle it will build power and feels like losses all boost and then comes back in and right back out
How do you disassemble that type of turbo? It has no screws like the rest of them
The control ring has no screws
Very good detailed video. Thanks for making it clear.
Can this cause a p0400 (p0400-5 exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected) on a Vectra b 2000 x20dtl ?
Can't find any vacuum leaks, egr replaced. Intake cleaned.
Very helpful thank you. Is it possible to clock/rotate the compressor housing on a Garrett gt2052v that has vnt? Or can it not be done because of the actuator and vnt system? Thank you!
Hi so the the last fault you said how can I correct that
bonjour esque la valeur de pression qui fait bouger la tige c'est la même à la sortie du turbo ? Je veut dire pression a point de début déplacement de tige =Pression de soufflement turbo?
I just want to know why is my turbo making a wistel sound when I accelerate
Plz can u help me
Hello don't spose you could help. I've fitted a borg warner instead of a garret now I've seen ur vids I've relised whats wrong and I swap the turbo actuators over or are they veins working the opersit way thanks
Sorry ment can I swap the actuators as it must be working the wrong way or will the veins only work to the borg warner
how can i know if my turbo fail without strip down from my car?? sometimes i fell the power after 2100-2200rpm sometimes works below 2000 rpm.i hear the sound when is activated when is in no gear...someone says that my turbo don't works fine becouse the hose that goes to turbo are not so hard when i make presure with hand.any advice?? thx
Everybody is saying thanks ? But did any of you actually take apart your turbo to inspect lmaoo
0:00 what dose the icon mean? Why dose it light up for a sec then turné off when you start your car?
Diesel engines have glow plugs and no spark plugs. Diesel engines use pressure to combust the fuel mix but it needs help to do so the first time the car is started. The glow plugs heat up when you first turn the electrics on in a car to give an assist to the combustion. This symbol tells you they are on. Never start the engine until this symbol is no longer illuminated. When this symbols light goes out on the dash it means the glow plugs are at temperature and it is now safe to start the engine.
frankhardy123 thank you so much for a verry good answear!
Most of the time vacuum solenoid failed, and brings torbo to overheat and failed, I just bought a replacement turbo cartridge of the eBay and fix my turbo , but the problem was turbo actuator vacuum solenoid failure.