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I have looked into it. Not many newer TDIs for sale around me, and the cost to get started with a CR swap is at least double sometimes triple that of a 98-06 build.

@@TDISwaps if u had a whole functional car with the crua motor would you still have to buy a bunch of extra stuff to make it work other than the obvious like adapter plates

@ngelemental2274 I do not trust the cp4 pump in the CRUA so I would do a CP3 pump and delete tune and the starting price for all of that combined is around $2000, I can setup an ALH for less than half that, sometimes under $700 with used parts. Those costs are completely separate from the swap itself

Nice! Well all the diagrams are one the TDI swapped trucks group on Facebook if that helps?

@@TDISwaps that’s does help! Would they just have a photo album of the wiring diagrams that I could use to make some copies of? As far as I know these dodge Dakota swaps are kind of rare. Unless I’m mistaken my swap will be the 6th tdi swapped Dakota in history?

@ydocproductions5593 haha I haven't been keeping track but most of the wiring is just for the TDI side and they have PDF files for everything

@@TDISwaps thanks for the tip. I appreciate your time man👍

@ydocproductions5593 glad to help!

Haha I already have 2 autos on the road sir!

Well all I know is, it is much appreciated! 😂

Ya we may look at that if the stock controller doesn't shift right for us.

You wouldn't regret it! I only wish I would have done them sooner!

@@TDISwaps I think I’m going to do a YJ. I’ve always wanted a diesel s10, but I just got a Colorado with the duramax instead.

@Bpf1893 ya those are nice

Haha well stay tuned!

For sure man! Glad to help and thanks for watching!

Haha sounds good! Yes the TDI should be able to make up for the power robbing auto, we will see!

@TDISwaps always eager to learn bout tdi swaps!!! 🤙

@goatsmisadventures haha me too! Learn something new everyday with these things 😂

@TDISwaps are they easy to find i your area? Tdi are harder to find then first gen cummins parts around here....I've seen 2 around roswell and I got 1...none in junk yards with in 300 miles!!...

@goatsmisadventures I don't know what you call easy, I pretty much bought a good deal I found in the past 6 years and probably collected 20 to 25

Thanks!

Heck ya!

Any reason why you always go for an ALH? i plan on putting a BRM in my Ranger using your old videos, seams like it should be about the same difficulty, however im hesitant seeing that you always go for the ALH’s. Any reason?

Haha because they keep showing up at my house for $500 😂😂 the BRMs do too but they are so clean I can't stand to take them apart yet. The ALH cars are always rusty

@@TDISwaps fair enough haha. Ease of access thing for you then, you run a scrap yard?

@gavynrich1034 LOL maybe a TDI scrap yard, but don't tell my wife 😂😂😂

Well I am usually making these looms using the TDIs wiring like the original BKDs loom. And I'm also always making them standalone like to run without hooking to a factory ve cluster, just universal gauges

Ya the engine wiring is quite different for the VE ALH vs PD ARL, at least the engine harness would need changed

You will be able to fine tune the cam timing with vcds after Install, the 5.5 lock is fine, I usually don't lock it at all just visually inspect it's close and recheck once running again

@TDISwaps Thank you so much. Sometimes, all one needs a bit of reassurance.

@VNAV_PTH 100% the biggest mistake guys make is NOT turning the engine over with a ratchet after the job is done. Anything can be fixed if you turn it over by hand and find that the engine locks up because you messed the timing up. But as soon as you bump the starter with something messed up, the valves are likely bent.

@@TDISwaps Got it. I haven't even removed the old belt yet because of the issue with the locking pin. I will try to get it in after removing the crank tool and rotate the crank slowly at the same time. If successful, the crank tool will then likely not fit. So I guess then it's time to loosen the cam sprocket bolts and rotate the crank (hopefully clockwise) until I can get the crank tool in. If I have to turn it counterclockwise, I will pass TDC a tiny amount and then turn clockwise until it fits. Does that seem reasonable, or would you just leave the crank tool in its locked position as it is right now and turn the cam instead (after loosening the cam sprocket bolts)?

@VNAV_PTH yes I would leave the crank locked and adjust the cam with the bolts loose

Yes you do need to adjust the cam after startup almost every time. I actually prefer -1 for MPG from what I've experienced.

Glad to help sir! Yes lifters can be noisy at first but sounds like you have it all fixed!

My problem is, I would still want to see oil temp, EGT, boost to keep things in check, towing at 70 MPH I am pushing this engine hard in the mountains. That and the original cluster only said hot or cold for coolant. 230° was barely moving the gauge and that with 1300° EGTs pulling a mountain pass towing has already cracked a piston in my other truck. You really need precise numbers if you want to abuse the engines, and the factory gauges didn't give me that. Also, with 33" tires the speedometer was 12 mph off with the only fix being a $250 inline cable speed reducer. That alone paid for every gauge on my dash 🤷

So I can get a lot of the plugs new, but I would have to source some of it used, I do build them for customers yes. You can get a hold of me on Facebook facebook.com/profile.php?id=100014261163897&mibextid=ZbWKwL

I used a universal mount on my first 3 swaps that worked very well, on this I tried to reuse the Dakota mounts, actually 2 passenger side mounts, but they are vibrating worse than the universal ones in my other swaps. There are videos on the whole build.

@@TDISwaps thanks, I was curious about the vibrations on the stock mounts. Doing this to a 99 Tacoma and the stock mounts don’t have much “cushion” I’ll check them out when I get off work! Awesome stuff!

@miguelpasana2869 thanks for watching man

I average about 21 mpg but I have seen as high as 24 mpg at 70 mph

@@TDISwapsi saw your other video where your egt’s got crazy high and you dropped a cylinder. Do you think a 1.9 swap into a stock dodge dakota with 33’s i would run into any overworking problems?

@gavynrich1034 that was mostly caused by outside Air temps at 117°. Tuning needed fixed to control EGTs better on top of that, but my cooling system was not keeping up over 105° outside. Back home here at 70° out I can tow a trailer no problem. So it really depends on how well you build it. I have 5.13 axle gears that mostly make up for the big tires. It moves about like the V8 I pulled out.

⁠​⁠​⁠@@TDISwapsokay that makes more sense, i should be fine then. Im curious as to how you mated the engine and transmission, i cant find a company site online that sells adapter plates to the dodge transmissions

@gavynrich1034 haha yeah you would need to watch the whole build series on this truck, it's a complete Frankenstein. TDI engine with aw4 Jeep Cherokee transmission, Dodge 1500 transfer case then custom drive shafts to the Dodge 3500 axles, and a Jeep Cherokee steering box just around things off 😂 I mean at least I stayed Chrysler right?

Only if it comes with a controller LOL

Those are a bit different, but I did a PD/BRM video as well on the wiring

So vcds doesn't really do tuning, only diagnostics and some slight adjustments. Now to do bigger injectors you need aftermarket tuning like I am loading in this video, and yes the tune itself has a map for each injector making it more complex than the older TDI engines with just a single fuel map. But vcds itself does not adjust the fueling on a BRM

@@TDISwaps thanks for the quick response it i really appreciate it and it helped a lot! also im loving the build. Keep it up!

@dylanrounseville9919 thanks for watching!

What tuning software?

@na-ec4fo well I use mpps for flashing the tunes, winosl for actually adjusting them

That manifold is a universal t3 manifold off eBay, I use alot of custom setups now for my turbos

Turbos are great mufflers 😁 this has about 16" of pipe dumping out right behind the front tire

Haha ya they are pretty gutless stock, but even a mild tune wakes them right up

They don't make a dodge nv3500 adapter, you would need to use a Chevy bell housing to make it work. Or use a jeep ax15 would be another option

Will do sir! Thanks!

I’ve had trouble with injections coking up. Good to hear your’s are clean.

@bobirving6052 ya haven't had too much issue unless I run pretty heavy oil

Just updated the video to this link. www.vbelts4less.com/548K6--K-Section-Micro-Rib-Belt-Serpentine-Belt_p_25579.html

@@TDISwaps thank you very much. Im close to finishing the wiring and some coolant hoses, so I can test my engine. my fabricator dude is nearby in town so I hope to have a good 10 gauges dash to monitor all the parameters of the engine. Just been busy as you with this build as you know its a lot of work by yourself. waiting on Amazon and others daily and weekly to send my parts.

@Indianrider65 for sure man! Just gotta take it one day at a time

I'll have to remember that

If you checkout my more in-depth video on this with price breakdowns, and picked up a clean car with minor issues worth 2-3x what you pay, there is potential to MAKE money doing the swap lol

I mean I have the stuff to make the wiring harness and turn immobilizer off on the ECU, I'm not sure though on custom tuning

@@TDISwaps how exactly does one turn immobilizers off? Is that something that you buy then you have the ability to plug into another vehicle to use again? Or is there some sort of thecho wizardry involved?

@ydocproductions5593 its about $750+ in cables and software mostly for swaps or removing security haha

Hmmm I don't know for sure as I don't do the timing, but I know I am getting way more that 40. Yes sir in and out may be restricting you

@@TDISwaps Could be interesting to know man! I really would like (dyno proven) to see what actually 80mg is @4000 rpm Intake is the big pd130 aluminium one with stock airbox and KN filter that should be alright for that power goal The torque follows the right curve up until 3500rpm where afterwards it makes too less torque to achieve my 200hp goal, even 2° injection more would give 4-5hp less which is nonsense

@CarRemap yeah I'd have to ask my tuner and get back to you

@CarRemap yeah I'd have to ask my tuner and get back to you

Glad to help man! And thanks for watching!

Yes sir!

I am combatting the heat rise with a very oversized intercooler. I am never on flat ground haha, I live in the mountains. I need 1 bar of pressure just to get up my driveway

​@@TDISwapsYes, I saw later that these were long climbs)

@ВладимирЯковенко-б2з yes unfortunately I am really working these little engines. I do have much bigger turbos on my other TDIs that are much lighter and can slip the clutch more, but I think for this truck the true fix would be compound turbos to have cool efficient air at all rpm levels.

​@@TDISwapsfrom BMW?)

The only place I know to get them is on the TDI swapped trucks Facebook group

@@TDISwaps thanks

@flashgordon99999 for sure man! They are in the files section of the group

I haven't looked into anything that new, I'm not sure which transmission that is or how you would control it without the LS computer. Assuming it's a 4l60e they do make controllers for them or you can manually shift it. Otherwise I would probably swap the transmission as well just to simply making it shift correctly.

Ya everything is Toyota besides the compressor and the first part of the lines coming off it. Then I tig welded the VW lines to the Toyota lines. I did a video on it

@@TDISwaps okay I saw that in one video, but was still a little confused. I want to document my swap so I might do some videos on it as well. I’ve been using your videos for some help on deciding what to do. How does the motor sit without the 4 inch lift?

@haydenreil2210 it's very snug, about 3/4" of clearance in a lot of places all around the engine especially with the AC compressor in

@@TDISwaps do you have any interference problems?

@haydenreil2210 I used pretty stiff rubber mounts so there is very little movement, haven't had anything touch yet

Pretty steady 21-24 mpg mixed driving, city would be a little less

@@TDISwaps that’s really good! If you had any of the gas engines on 1 ton axles, you’d be getting half of that MPG! That’s an awesome build. I just got a 2001 Audi Allroad for almost free. I’m pulling out that complicated drivetrain and swapping a 1.9 TDI with a manual 01E transmission. The power goal is very similar to yours. My Land Cruiser will get a 12 valve Cummins. The plan is to run some waste oil and bio fuel on both. Keep posting videos! Also, what state do you live? I’m in New Mexico.

@devil2jz500 nice! Eventually I will get my Cummins swap started, but these TDIs love waste oil too. Sound alike you have all kinds of stuff planned! I am in Southern Wyoming now, but I lived in Alamogordo 2012-14' thanks for watching.

@@TDISwaps I got the phone number of a few small 18wheeler shops and owner operators. They are always willing to give hundreds of gallons of waste oil for free. I just need to buy a few drums, a pump and a small trailer. That’s the future! lol

@devil2jz500 sounds like a good future!

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The factory AC on the ALH and low mounted turbo are what make them wide. 22" will be tight with stock components. But relocating AC and a top mount turbo would free up a ton of space around the frame .

Sorry man I'd redo it if I could

Just 30 psi currently

Well each vehicle is different that I have, but I am tuned for 180-250 HP at 26-36psi boost. And fuel consumption varies but they are at least double what I got with the original gas engine before the swap

R150F 5 speed that came behind the 3.0 v6

Ya I plan to take it back, but not in the summer, I didn't like that trip anymore than the truck 😂

You have the schematics printed out then?

Yes I had them, but I lost them and now I have nothing.

@Estebandealba3335 I don't have any way to link them on TH-cam

I know you would love it!