Glad your enjoying them, I’m pretty excited to bring the tan one home and tear into it. Work and Reno’s have been getting in the way so it’s been taking longer then expected.
Your making sure the injector never bottoms out. So with the injector fully depressed (when the cam lobe lines up with the injector rocker) your turning the screw in until you feel resistance. That’s the injector bottomed out, you then go half turn loose so that there’s never a chance the injector is bottoming out during normal operation. If it does it’ll break the plunger on the injector making it unusable.
my 05 BHW Passat w/400k miles has a worn cam/lifters. P0299 code (boost) issue. replace all vac lines, N75, etc. Even removed, cleaned, checked the VNT vanes. Looked perfect. Was told probably the cam/lifters. Got the cam in, broke an ear on the tandem pump :( Now I'm waiting on a new pump. HOPEFULLY this'll be the issue for my P0299, FINALLY..
I did a video on v10 tdi cams right around the same time as this one, when watching on vcds you can see actual boost is nowhere near specified. It’d throw misfire codes as well as underboost. Makes sense since the exhaust can’t all escape in time and then gets forced into the intake when it opens, resulting in a lot less exhaust to spin the turbo and a lot more “egr” preventing it from running 100%.
Good oil definitely prolongs the inevitable. My Touareg had 167k km on it when replaced which I think mostly had to do with poor servicing. The car in this video had 409k km and it was on a budget so replaced with a used cam that I had kicking around that had 460k km on it.
Hello, thanks for this video its useful. I noticed you have the belt off, Im just wondering If I can do this job without taking the motor mounts and lifting the engine. Im just not sure there is enough room to get in there and put the belt back on. Yes mark the cam and belt as well as put the motor in TDC
Yes, this one was getting a timing belt so it was all getting replaced anyways. I’ve done one which kept the original belt, just loosened off and pulled out of the way. Definitely more awkward doing it that way though.
I bought them from a smaller hardware store, but m8, 90mm length and 1.25 thread pitch 12.9 grade for the injector rockers and m6 55mm length and 1.00 thread pitch 12.9 grade for the cam caps
Hey Mark, depends on your budget and expected life of the car. If the cars in good shape and you expect a long life out of it yet, I’d go with a colt cam with nitrided Ina followers with the inner springs knocked out. (I covered this procedure in my v10 cam replacement video when I installed stage 2 colt cams) Next would be a billet cam or kolbenshmidt cam along with factory assembled nitrided Ina followers. On a tight budget would be a bew cam of some sort, they have less aggressive lobes and should prolong life (that’s what I did in this video)
Can you send me a good write up on how to do this?? Is it possible to do it without removing the timing belt?? Could I zip tie the belt to the sprocket , release tension, remove sprocket then perform the cam replacement?
There’s no where to run a zip tie through, best option would be mark the cam pulley and keep the belt snug on the crank but I’d be concerned of it jumping. Could possibly pull the crank serpentine pulley and mark the belt through the hole.
Did you use the advanced method? Tdc the timing and rotate anticlockwise 90°? Also i presume you dont need the timing belt locking tools for the crank.
I use the timing tools personally, crank lock as well as cam lock. If you don't have VCDS/Vag com to set the cam timing the mark and pray will probably be best if the last person did it right.
@@Wrensspeedshop so with the new belt on your going to want to use vcds to check torsion value (cam timing) when engines up to temp at idle. I forget what group it is but you’ll want it +- 1 or so, it’ll be close if you lock everything correctly with the tools during belt replacement
@@JoshsJettas thank you for the information. I believe on one of your videos or another one I watched it shows the values and where to go in the CDS in order to check the timing
@@Wrensspeedshop that’s right I did a separate timing belt video on this one, I usually aim for +0.5 or +1. It’s a simple adjustment which can make a big difference on fuel consumption and power.
This one was actually a slightly used one out of an engine I’m building for a different car. BEW cam is 038 109 101 R. This is a stock profile cam so it will wear out eventually again but this particular car was high mileage so if I think the rest of the car will wear out before this will.
i have read there is a VW bulletin about installing the lifters to prevent damage , does anyone know anything about this ??? do you just pump them up in a vat of oil or something ??
For sure, this one got a quick oil change 100km afterwards then it was good to go. I imagine the metallic debris would wear off slowly enough its caught between oil changes
Hey the camera had died during reassembly and I didn’t catch on. You’ve got a couple ways of installing it; 1. Since the engines locked at tdc you can install the new cam the same way it came out, cylinder 1 cam lobes facing up/forward and up/rear wards. 2. If you concerned of piston/valve contact you can rock the crank off tdc and install the cam as described above then rock the crank back to tdc and pin it.
Crankshaft or camshaft? Few possibilities, air in the fuel system from having the tandem pump off (should go away after running it). Other possibility is torsion value being out (cam timing) which you’ll need vcds or a scan tool to check and reset
@@eirikjohannessen6538 if it just happened and the code came up after doing the cam I bet the cam is either to far retarded or advanced and torsion value will read 0 degrees. I’d double check your timing.
Yes, use an Allen key and turn it in by hand until it stops then half turn out. Your bottoming out the injector when turning it in, that half turn out/loosened prevents it from bottoming out while running/tolerances changing when warm.
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I'm obsessed with your videos just in case for the future lpl I love my v10
Glad your enjoying them, I’m pretty excited to bring the tan one home and tear into it. Work and Reno’s have been getting in the way so it’s been taking longer then expected.
excellent vid.
hi josh thanks for the video i did not quite understand the adjustemt procedure for the injector adjustments
Your making sure the injector never bottoms out. So with the injector fully depressed (when the cam lobe lines up with the injector rocker) your turning the screw in until you feel resistance. That’s the injector bottomed out, you then go half turn loose so that there’s never a chance the injector is bottoming out during normal operation. If it does it’ll break the plunger on the injector making it unusable.
my 05 BHW Passat w/400k miles has a worn cam/lifters. P0299 code (boost) issue. replace all vac lines, N75, etc. Even removed, cleaned, checked the VNT vanes. Looked perfect.
Was told probably the cam/lifters. Got the cam in, broke an ear on the tandem pump :( Now I'm waiting on a new pump. HOPEFULLY this'll be the issue for my P0299, FINALLY..
I did a video on v10 tdi cams right around the same time as this one, when watching on vcds you can see actual boost is nowhere near specified. It’d throw misfire codes as well as underboost.
Makes sense since the exhaust can’t all escape in time and then gets forced into the intake when it opens, resulting in a lot less exhaust to spin the turbo and a lot more “egr” preventing it from running 100%.
@@JoshsJettas thanks! Subbed.
I have been running Mobile 0-40W since 70k miles and sitting at 205k with 90% of the miles are towing up to 10k lbs. No camshaft issue yet.
Good oil definitely prolongs the inevitable. My Touareg had 167k km on it when replaced which I think mostly had to do with poor servicing. The car in this video had 409k km and it was on a budget so replaced with a used cam that I had kicking around that had 460k km on it.
Hello, thanks for this video its useful. I noticed you have the belt off, Im just wondering If I can do this job without taking the motor mounts and lifting the engine. Im just not sure there is enough room to get in there and put the belt back on. Yes mark the cam and belt as well as put the motor in TDC
Yes, this one was getting a timing belt so it was all getting replaced anyways. I’ve done one which kept the original belt, just loosened off and pulled out of the way. Definitely more awkward doing it that way though.
thanks Josh! do you possibly have a link to the \bolts that you bought at fastenall? a very helpful video. thanks Pat
I bought them from a smaller hardware store, but m8, 90mm length and 1.25 thread pitch 12.9 grade for the injector rockers and m6 55mm length and 1.00 thread pitch 12.9 grade for the cam caps
hello, thanks for the video, what was the value you had in Synchro. Angle before you put on the new cam? Thank you
Can’t say I even checked it, this one had multiple other issues before discovering the bad cam
Scary I just bought a 2006 tdi 107000.miles .what oil do you use. And thank you very much for the great info
Hey, not sure which this one used previously. 505.01 5W40 is preferred, I've been using T6 with zinc additive.
Hi Josh, I have 400k mile MK5 BRM that still gets 45mpg. As a preventative, what cam and lifters do you recommend for the BRM.
Hey Mark, depends on your budget and expected life of the car.
If the cars in good shape and you expect a long life out of it yet, I’d go with a colt cam with nitrided Ina followers with the inner springs knocked out. (I covered this procedure in my v10 cam replacement video when I installed stage 2 colt cams)
Next would be a billet cam or kolbenshmidt cam along with factory assembled nitrided Ina followers.
On a tight budget would be a bew cam of some sort, they have less aggressive lobes and should prolong life (that’s what I did in this video)
@@JoshsJettas Thanks for the advice. 06 Jetta brm w/ 380k, colt cam and stage 2 malone.
Can you send me a good write up on how to do this?? Is it possible to do it without removing the timing belt?? Could I zip tie the belt to the sprocket , release tension, remove sprocket then perform the cam replacement?
There’s no where to run a zip tie through, best option would be mark the cam pulley and keep the belt snug on the crank but I’d be concerned of it jumping. Could possibly pull the crank serpentine pulley and mark the belt through the hole.
@@JoshsJettas I will be removing the crank pulley so I can set timing with crank gear marks and I do have the cam locking pin
Did you use the advanced method? Tdc the timing and rotate anticlockwise 90°? Also i presume you dont need the timing belt locking tools for the crank.
I use the timing tools personally, crank lock as well as cam lock. If you don't have VCDS/Vag com to set the cam timing the mark and pray will probably be best if the last person did it right.
@@JoshsJettas I’ve got the software you mentioned. How did you utilize them in order to find TDC or the correct timing? Thank you
@@Wrensspeedshop so with the new belt on your going to want to use vcds to check torsion value (cam timing) when engines up to temp at idle. I forget what group it is but you’ll want it +- 1 or so, it’ll be close if you lock everything correctly with the tools during belt replacement
@@JoshsJettas thank you for the information. I believe on one of your videos or another one I watched it shows the values and where to go in the CDS in order to check the timing
@@Wrensspeedshop that’s right I did a separate timing belt video on this one, I usually aim for +0.5 or +1. It’s a simple adjustment which can make a big difference on fuel consumption and power.
What is the part number for the BEW Cam. Did it come in a kit?
This one was actually a slightly used one out of an engine I’m building for a different car. BEW cam is 038 109 101 R.
This is a stock profile cam so it will wear out eventually again but this particular car was high mileage so if I think the rest of the car will wear out before this will.
Could you please us to align lifters with their adjustment ?
We dont know how much distances should be
The lifters are hydraulic,no adjusting.
how much shall we distance for cam bucket ?
Cam lobe to cam bucket/follower? Just install and go, they self adjust
i have read there is a VW bulletin about installing the lifters to prevent damage , does anyone know anything about this ??? do you just pump them up in a vat of oil or something ??
If using new ones they say to install and then run the engine at a fixed 2000 rpm for 20 minutes, then drain break in oil and put regular oil back in.
@@JoshsJettas thanks for the info
Change the oil more often and flush out all the metallic debris in the engine before the rebuild.
For sure, this one got a quick oil change 100km afterwards then it was good to go. I imagine the metallic debris would wear off slowly enough its caught between oil changes
Hi u dont show how u put back the camshaft
Hey the camera had died during reassembly and I didn’t catch on.
You’ve got a couple ways of installing it; 1. Since the engines locked at tdc you can install the new cam the same way it came out, cylinder 1 cam lobes facing up/forward and up/rear wards. 2. If you concerned of piston/valve contact you can rock the crank off tdc and install the cam as described above then rock the crank back to tdc and pin it.
@@JoshsJettas alright thanks mate. Btw good video.
How many miles were on this engine?
400k km or so, I’ve had 2 very close in mileage fail at that point.
My car is shaking after changing the crankshaft. (Only on start 700-600rpm). What can my issue be?
Crankshaft or camshaft? Few possibilities, air in the fuel system from having the tandem pump off (should go away after running it). Other possibility is torsion value being out (cam timing) which you’ll need vcds or a scan tool to check and reset
@@JoshsJettas on vdcs it says camshaft position sensor.
@@JoshsJettas also just when the engine is cold.
@@eirikjohannessen6538 if it just happened and the code came up after doing the cam I bet the cam is either to far retarded or advanced and torsion value will read 0 degrees. I’d double check your timing.
When your setting your lash your getting it until it’s hand tight and backing off a half turn correct
Yes, use an Allen key and turn it in by hand until it stops then half turn out.
Your bottoming out the injector when turning it in, that half turn out/loosened prevents it from bottoming out while running/tolerances changing when warm.
You juste lose tandem pump to get the cam of no need to take it off completely
It can be but the seal was leaking already, figured it was time to be done before it made the coolant lines more swollen