ONE OF THE KEY THINGS TO KNOW ON THIS......When you set the tension for the timing belt the cam bolts NEED TO BE LOOSE....while setting the tension you will see the cam gear rotate slightly. Then you tighten the cam bolts.
I am on my first 395k original miles on my BRM. I have let shop do the timining belt becuase I couldnt find a good explanation. Just found your site. I have never seen anyone describe the different pulleys. That would have totally messed be up becuase no one mented this. I ahve watched them all inclduing Germany. Great BRM video. I would love a BRM cam replacement video. Thanks Mark
Thomas Exobcds helped me on my first BRM timing belt replacement. I’ve done 2. This is a great overview Mike. Thanks! Cam replacement and turbo replacement would be great next videos. My turbo actuator is not holding suction, so waiting for it to die and will upgrade to Touareg or move back to a gasser.
Man you are 100% correct you want to use OEM parts made in Germany and when you can dump plastic for metal you are going to gain longevity. Doing it once is better than twice!....and keeping your coolant as fresh as possible is a good idea. If it for my own car I'll take a chance and some torque to yield bolts on a customers car never! I replace them outright. Just my two cents.
also use g12 coolant. I use pentosin as well. going for 400k miles before I even consider replacing the car. still like new. at 246. driving and running.. On mine tty for the mount I am good with reusing them but on a cam or cylinder head Nope new only.
I’ve done dozens of vw timing belts and have never replaced the engine mount bolts. Never had one come back. Head bolts sure, anything else is not needed. He’s so bent on replacing bolts but then torque’s by “feel” . Lol 😆
My stud was too tight so I pushed the tensioner to the mount and used vise grips to grab and loosen the stud so I could avoid damaging the threads on the tip where the nut goes. You have to use a crows foot adapter on a 3/4'' torque wrench to tighten the tensioner nut if the engine mount is not removed.
If you purchase a frank06 camshaft from Frank Irving (Google to find him) has has a very good writeup that comes with his camshaft. If you can follow directions, and are mechanically inclined, you can do it.
Mike thay was a very interesting video its A pain on some cars but u cant ignor a belt on any engine really always changea belt at the requied millage or pay the price Phil in the uk
If you drive the car normal i say it's safe 200k (miles), my honest experience 😏, I use full synthetic oil and I change every 5k but i change oil filter every other oil change (10k), I still remove the oil filter let it drain and suck all the oil from inside where the filter sits with a vacuum pump.
Yep, haven't watched this yet but if it's like our 2010 Hyundai they have rubber belts for timing which have to be change every 100,000 miles. If you don't and the break your valves will be toast or something bad I have heard. It cost us around 500 to have Hyundai do it for so saved on my old body but it can be done in the garage with some skills, tools and parts. Knowing the timing Mark's between the cam and crank a must or it won't work.
Colt camshaft or Frank06 (frank irving) is a better build aftermarket camshaft vs stock. (avoid knock offs for sure) I put a frank06 BEW cam in my BRM for better longevity. Around 5% less lift on the injector lobes. (around 200k mi. I'm at 368 now)
This looks pretty similar to the BRS engine I have in my T5 'eurovan' (I'm in the UK) but I'm still going to get my local place to change the belt, I'll do a lot of work on my own cars, but timing belts worry me :D
Mike great video. This should help a lot of people with this same make and model of VW! How do you like the Harbor Freight cordless ratchet? in my 86 Jetta i had to put a water pump in it every 80k miles i think back then the part was 80.00. LOL
My bkc 1.9 tdi has 161k miles and the cam is still good do you think it'll be best to replace the cam and lifters next timing belt change which will be due on 200k miles
I got 500,000km on my cam no major cam or lifter wear . Make sure you use the highest quality oil . Now on the other hand I do drive all highway , maybe an issue for town driven cars
maybe highway driving. Most post averages are around 150k miles. Like mine I use all Pentosin oil 505.1 spec. and it still went flat. There is a oiling issue from what I hear I have not read the full fix for it but I hear something about drilling the cam bearings. Havent had time to look up the post. but someone told me about it that I know. not a subscriber.
@@Mikefngarage what is "n215"/"n216" All I know is that there are two versions 0AM and after 2015 0CW, I just bought a new Passat with a DQ200 so i want to know some tips and tricks to make it last.
@@dragospahontuyea for sure make sure when you are stopped at a light you do not creep forward and hold your foot firmly on the brake pedal. This will prevent premature clutch wear. Keep an open ear for the noise from the DMF dual mass flywheel. When it starts to rattle you need to replace it. They do wear out. Kind of a rattle when you shut off the engine. I have a video of the noise. Or it may vibrate with engine speed. They are probably one of the best automatic transmissions out there. Basically they are stick shift gear box with a dual wet clutch and electromagnetic valve body. These cars if well maintained are good for 400k miles. 40k miles is the recommendation of changing the trans fluid. Since they have wet clutches it needs to be done. you may fudge a little on that one but do change it often. the 40k mile thing I think is for people who are creepers.
talk too much and never use silicone on threads, if you end up pushing the silicone into the hole and bottoming it out then the bolt will snap off or youll push the casting out of the block. seen it too many times, use a proper thread locker.
if your referring to the parts quality and stuff like that. that stuff is SUPER important because this car is really picky and the non factory parts will probably be an issue.
ONE OF THE KEY THINGS TO KNOW ON THIS......When you set the tension for the timing belt the cam bolts NEED TO BE LOOSE....while setting the tension you will see the cam gear rotate slightly. Then you tighten the cam bolts.
Why is that, what happens if you don't?
thank you for your comments and likes.
Thanks all
LOL... 4:04 to 4:12 so true!
Lots of good info!
I am on my first 395k original miles on my BRM. I have let shop do the timining belt becuase I couldnt find a good explanation. Just found your site. I have never seen anyone describe the different pulleys. That would have totally messed be up becuase no one mented this. I ahve watched them all inclduing Germany. Great BRM video. I would love a BRM cam replacement video. Thanks Mark
just remember CAM LOOSE when setting the tension. Many places get this wrong. then tighten the cam bolts.
I purchased tty bolts from the dealership and they told me you can use them 3 times no problem before you have to replace them
Thomas Exobcds helped me on my first BRM timing belt replacement. I’ve done 2. This is a great overview Mike. Thanks! Cam replacement and turbo replacement would be great next videos. My turbo actuator is not holding suction, so waiting for it to die and will upgrade to Touareg or move back to a gasser.
yea my 09 just had the oil pump fail hex key rounded. video coming on that.
Replace the VNT....Little hard but doable especially with the valve cover off.
Man you are 100% correct you want to use OEM parts made in Germany and when you can dump plastic for metal you are going to gain longevity. Doing it once is better than twice!....and keeping your coolant as fresh as possible is a good idea. If it for my own car I'll take a chance and some torque to yield bolts on a customers car never! I replace them outright. Just my two cents.
also use g12 coolant. I use pentosin as well. going for 400k miles before I even consider replacing the car. still like new. at 246. driving and running.. On mine tty for the mount I am good with reusing them but on a cam or cylinder head Nope new only.
There are a lot of VW parts made in Romania, Slovakia, Poland, Spain, Germany.
I’ve done dozens of vw timing belts and have never replaced the engine mount bolts. Never had one come back. Head bolts sure, anything else is not needed. He’s so bent on replacing bolts but then torque’s by “feel” . Lol 😆
My stud was too tight so I pushed the tensioner to the mount and used vise grips to grab and loosen the stud so I could avoid damaging the threads on the tip where the nut goes. You have to use a crows foot adapter on a 3/4'' torque wrench to tighten the tensioner nut if the engine mount is not removed.
Thanks! I would pay you a couple of hundred bucks for a good BRM cam video. I have only seen one and that is in German by Schrauba. Thanks again.
thanks bud
If you purchase a frank06 camshaft from Frank Irving (Google to find him) has has a very good writeup that comes with his camshaft. If you can follow directions, and are mechanically inclined, you can do it.
Mike thay was a very interesting video its A pain on some cars but u cant ignor a belt on any engine really always changea belt at the requied millage or pay the price
Phil in the uk
I'm doing my timing belt at 195.000 miles, all original since i bought the car new, never did anything to the engine including serpentine belt.
They do last a long time but that's pushing it
I did see a guy with 300,000 and had never done it. But the risk is that the engine will fail
If you drive the car normal i say it's safe 200k (miles), my honest experience 😏, I use full synthetic oil and I change every 5k but i change oil filter every other oil change (10k), I still remove the oil filter let it drain and suck all the oil from inside where the filter sits with a vacuum pump.
@@AndersonERockefeller yea but that belt if it breaks. your engine is toast. kinda risky.
Yep, haven't watched this yet but if it's like our 2010 Hyundai they have rubber belts for timing which have to be change every 100,000 miles. If you don't and the break your valves will be toast or something bad I have heard. It cost us around 500 to have Hyundai do it for so saved on my old body but it can be done in the garage with some skills, tools and parts. Knowing the timing Mark's between the cam and crank a must or it won't work.
these are a bit harder than any other timing belt slow going.
Colt camshaft or Frank06 (frank irving) is a better build aftermarket camshaft vs stock. (avoid knock offs for sure) I put a frank06 BEW cam in my BRM for better longevity. Around 5% less lift on the injector lobes. (around 200k mi. I'm at 368 now)
Great video Mike 👍🏻 Lots of fantastic tips too 😆
This looks pretty similar to the BRS engine I have in my T5 'eurovan' (I'm in the UK) but I'm still going to get my local place to change the belt, I'll do a lot of work on my own cars, but timing belts worry me :D
gotta be done right... and they are different on the vw
Oil should be 5w40, camshaft wears a groove in the lifters first!
Lifter wear first, newer versions wear longer. I have done 3 camshafts. Not a bad job
Mike great video. This should help a lot of people with this same make and model of VW! How do you like the Harbor Freight cordless ratchet? in my 86 Jetta i had to put a water pump in it every 80k miles i think back then the part was 80.00. LOL
that ratchet is great. quiet and strong better than air for sure and light too.
My bkc 1.9 tdi has 161k miles and the cam is still good do you think it'll be best to replace the cam and lifters next timing belt change which will be due on 200k miles
I got 500,000km on my cam no major cam or lifter wear . Make sure you use the highest quality oil . Now on the other hand I do drive all highway , maybe an issue for town driven cars
maybe highway driving. Most post averages are around 150k miles. Like mine I use all Pentosin oil 505.1 spec. and it still went flat. There is a oiling issue from what I hear I have not read the full fix for it but I hear something about drilling the cam bearings. Havent had time to look up the post. but someone told me about it that I know. not a subscriber.
The first og
Is DSG7 DQ200 0CW good?
DQ 200 is a great trans does have some issues with n215 n216 but mine is good still at 246k miles
@@Mikefngarage what is "n215"/"n216"
All I know is that there are two versions 0AM and after 2015 0CW, I just bought a new Passat with a DQ200 so i want to know some tips and tricks to make it last.
@@dragospahontuyea for sure make sure when you are stopped at a light you do not creep forward and hold your foot firmly on the brake pedal. This will prevent premature clutch wear. Keep an open ear for the noise from the DMF dual mass flywheel. When it starts to rattle you need to replace it. They do wear out. Kind of a rattle when you shut off the engine. I have a video of the noise. Or it may vibrate with engine speed. They are probably one of the best automatic transmissions out there. Basically they are stick shift gear box with a dual wet clutch and electromagnetic valve body. These cars if well maintained are good for 400k miles. 40k miles is the recommendation of changing the trans fluid. Since they have wet clutches it needs to be done. you may fudge a little on that one but do change it often. the 40k mile thing I think is for people who are creepers.
@@Mikefngarage ummmm.... DQ200 is dry...
talk too much and never use silicone on threads, if you end up pushing the silicone into the hole and bottoming it out then the bolt will snap off or youll push the casting out of the block. seen it too many times, use a proper thread locker.
next time can you never mind all that fuckery what you would have should have could have. and just do the job dang...
if your referring to the parts quality and stuff like that. that stuff is SUPER important because this car is really picky and the non factory parts will probably be an issue.