So glad you said stripping the thread. Not I threaded it. I hate people that say they threaded something when the mean and should have said they striped the thread
Yessir, ROK strap FTW. The sling is supposed to apply tension between my clavicle and elbow to help pin the clavicle down while the ligaments heal, but the buckle kept slipping and the webbing had zero elasticity. Total shit design that I'm fairly certain was thought up circa WWII. Slapped a ROK strap on there and it was a huge improvement in comfort.
Been watching a ton of both your videos recently after getting back into motorbiking after a hiatus. Excellent top notch videos from both of you! BTW heal up fast Ari.
Hey Man Thank You Have Not Owned a bike in years! But you have saved me a lot of time and money on a damaged oil pan for my truck. I had a bolt seize in there and then finally broke loose but still spinning. When were able to get this out you have saved me man!! I really Appreciate it!!! :) :)
This was an extremely well done and informative post (as usual) - Bravo. Sorry to see that you clipped your wing, Ari, but that's why we love ya - you are the real deal. Great stuff.
Strangely enough, when people tear their ACL they say that it was a painful pop and then after a couple minutes stopped hurting and they felt like they could walk on it again, which is a bad idea because the ligament is torn lol.
Excellent comparison test! Thank you! As a machinist, I've only ever installed helicoils in aluminum aerospace parts. Always wondered why we never use timeserts but your video cleared that up for me!
Just goobered up one of my spark plug holes recently. Got a tap called a back tap. This tap chases the threads in reverse, reducing the potential for getting junk in the cylinder head like a normal thread chaser would. Extra cash but well worth it!
To keep shavings from falling into the cylinder, set the piston at bottom dead center and fill the cylinder with shaving foam. Once you're done creating shrapnel, turn the engine over to squeeze out the foam which will carry out the shavings.
@@RaindropConstruction Absolute no guarantee you won't lose a shaving. I've had freshly rebored cylinders ruined by a few grains of missed shot blasting media in the past. Let alone metal shavings. It's just not worth the risk with a cylinder.
@@tedmagnum6968 I'd rather risk some soft aluminum shavings in the cylinder that will get blown out within the first few cycles vs taking apart the entire top end, any damage they do is negligible
You guys are blessed living on a 1st world country, I was sent from the US long time ago as a General Director of a NYC company out of the 500 fortune magazine. Long story short I got engaged with a native woman, then again and now I live here permanently. I do part time mechanic only in our cars. All the tools here are imported, kits like this or other high tech tools are imported as well. The trash they sell here is all made in China. Local shops are big scammers. Something sold in the US for 20 USD cost 60 here. The things is if they sent the wrong part you're screwed. I wish I had never left the USA.
I second zdc590. Your production quality and content is truly excellent and that's coming from someone who spent more than 15 years in New Zealand and Japan being part of video and film productions. Thank you and stay safe.
The TimeSert likely pulled out earlier because it's designed to have the bolt head against it, for the correct depth. It likely would have snapped the head of the bolt off if used as intended to make a flush surface for the bolt head.
Great information! But!! A quick trick. Instead of a thread chaser he first showed.. you can cut grooves “flutes” into a bolt. And it works the exact same! I’ve done it several times! This only fixes holes that are cross threaded. Bonus tip! If you strip out a bolt hole, cut a piece of steel wire, and put it in the hole, and insert the bolt. This does work! Ari is showing the right way to do this. But if you need help in a pinch you can cut some corners.
This is a great video, straight to the point and easy to understand. I just installed not one but 2 helicoils on my Versys 650 using this video as a tutorial. Overtightened a couple bolts on my new aluminum hand guard brackets and striped the threads. Lot cheaper than new brackets! Plus I have a new trick in the toolbox for next time… I’m sure this won’t be the last time I mess up some threads. Thank you Ari for the great video and helping me fix my mistake!
I've the same problem on my cbr 250r oil cover.. I temporarily solved the problem by putting a little bigger bolt but the next time I open it I'll be needing helicoil. Thanks Ari.. Love you bro.
I've used an insert before that is like a time sert, but it has a knurled top edge and it comes with a special punch to flare out the top knurling to hold it into place once screwed in. Worked great on my kz650 oil drain plug.
I was looking for comparisons on the Helicoil and timesert for another application, but this video was absolutely perfect even though I don’t ride motorcycles lol
Ride safely everyone, I had this accident that have cost me a permanent injury on my right hand. Thankfully I can still continue to ride my bike daily. May we all stay safe all the time. Cheers
Had the bolt snap on the clutch cover. Ended up sticking a helicoil in it as I’m pretty used to doing that at the machine shop I work at. Another awesome video. 🙌🏻
Had never heard of a thread chaser until this repair video. Good to know it exists rather than jumping straight to a tap-and-die system. Just used JB Weld for first time repairing a tail trunk - fiberglass tape plus epoxy. Not pretty but hopefully it'll hold.
JB weld is great for fixing damaged sealing surfaces. Had a track drive on a 200T crane bearing come apart and gouged the sealing surface. A new output drive was 6 weeks out, so me and the other mechanic decided to buy all the JB weld the local parts house had in stock and we filled in the gouges then used fine emery cloth with oil to smooth it out. That was 8 years ago and it still hasn't leaked.
This was a great vid covering something we’re all bound to encounter at least once. Looking forward to another one covering rounded & broken off bolt heads!
For non critical fixings you can wind a thin piece of copper wire around your bolt. The soft copper will fill in the spaces caused by the stripping. I used that trick on a sprocket cover where the thread in the engine block was stripped.
This was a good video. I stripped a plug thread once at the track. Tossed JB weld on it and let it cure overnight. It held for 2 seasons before I needed to change plugs and just swapped the head. Works in a pinch, but like the video isn’t a good repair option.
If you don't have a thread chaser and you've done the thing that sometimes happens where you've somewhat mangled all the threads, but not totally removed them, taking a clean bolt of the correct size and driving it in 1 full turn at a time (i.e. 1 turn, back out, clean hole and bolt, 2 turns, back out, clean whole and bolt, and so on until you've done all the threads), it can save you in a pinch.
Thanks! Love your site by the way; always buy gears from you guys. I'm glad I watched this as I wasn't 100% sure if the JB Weld would actually hold...I'm going to use Helicoil!
I've seen a pro mechanic install a Timesert to fix spark plug threads with the head intact, they put the cylinder in TDC making sure valves were closed then they used grease to catch most shavings and after used compressed air to get all shavings out. So probably possible just have to be extra careful
Excellent video. I actually remember pulling threads out of a magnesium fork when removing V-brake bolts. They put red loctite on them which pulled the threads right out. It was a crappy Rockshox fork on a 1995 Specialized Rockhopper A1 Comp (which I still have, with new fork, etc.).
Timesert is the shit! Used it to fix bottom drain plug on my vtx 1300. It has two drain plugs. Kept leaking. I called their customer service and they said it had to be tightened more. I felt like I was stripping it again just like Ari says in the video. But, after that it never leaked again and is more solid then a new bike!
Thank's for sharing that! I have the same problem now on my vtx 1300S :( i love that bike bro. I have been searching Timesert in mexican stores and have not found it, where did you buy It? Do you apply the torque that service manual says? If i am right says that is 22lb-ft for both drain plugs. I am thinking about to use heli coil as a posible solution becauase i can found it with a quickly shipping in my country, but if fails, i go with the timesert.
Wishing you a fast recovery! Personally, I stripped out the drain plug on my V-Star. Another option, which I used, was to tap a new hole and use an oversized bolt with a crush washer. I wouldn't recommend this on areas where you have limited metal or bolt space, but for the drain plug it worked like a charm. Also don't use this on areas with a higher torque spec. I suspect the high torque on a larger-than-spec bolt could just lead to another stripped out hole. Then you're really f***ed.
Did the whole helicoil rigmarole a couple of months before this video, it was for one of the tank holes on the aluminium frame. Super nerve-racking procedure!!. Make sure you use cutting oil, will make everything go smoothly.
yeah last year bought a used sv1000s. had no major problems, went to change the oil. saw that they had a temperary rubber plug, which was working. Decided to use an insert and used the wrong Tap w/ Red locktite long story short had to rebuild the entire engine with an ebay crankcase, but hey she runs like a beauty though. Moral of the story, use your brain and stress less about getting your bike rideable within a day, spend the few extra bits of time to do it right :)
As a professional mechanic and later a shop owner, I have used time serts since the 70s. I had a few real life run ins with helicoils which caused me to pull my hair out and vowed to never use them. Yes, I'm talking about failures. So yes time serts cost but they will work basically forever. So pay now or cry later. And yes, I fixed situations that would have cost a cyl head by using and slightly modifying time serts on a few engines and the fix was permanent.
The JB weld makes a great pipe dope for sloppy pipe threads. I’ve even used it on the manifold of my California air tools compressor that is made out of aluminum, and it’s lasted more than two years.
I've used JBWeld to hold nutserts in place after drilling the hole out. This approach worked, but at the end of the day the JBWeld was holding in the nutsert, which acted like a time-sert. I used this approach on a Jeep Wrangler Brake Caliper. I think this could work for this application as well, but I also think the helicoil and time-serts would be the best approach.
I cross threaded one of the holes on the bottom of the fork where the caliper mounts to trying to bolt the caliper back on. Luckily the shop was able to fix it using one of these methods I’m sure. Now I just have one larger bolt and 3 stock ones. Better than replacing an entire fork!
I've used a timesert on a spark plug hole without removing the head. No shavings ended up in the cylinder. I used a lot of grease and first made sure the exhaust valves were open. Once I was done installing the time setting I used compressed air to blow any shavings out the plug hole.
First off, thank you for what you do! You're always my first goto repair education for my bike (2017 HD Dyna Lowrider). This video really hits home and definitely will invest in helicoil. Question I have is depth: how do you know how deep you need to go? Example, exhaust studs! It was a sad day! Hope you get better and I'll let you know how it turns out. Take it easy!
For the sparkplugs thread : a vaccum cleaner is very good at removing the bits that fall into the cylinder. Just adapt a hose of the hole diameter to it (Apollo13 style), turn the engine to have the intake valves open , check with a cheap borescope. Before starting work : have the piston near the top intake vale open, stuff the hole with a rag or adhesive tape. then vacuum what you can while working. Use some pliers to extract the rag or tape once finished. Ways faster than removing the head.
Ive been told the time sert is the best option although it can be 5 to 10 times more than the helicoil kit. I just put a time sert on my Triumph after stripping a cam cover bolt. It was my first time doing it. Not too hard.
Awesome video. Glad I found it. Recently stripped the thread where the clutch cable goes into the primary cover. Thread is completely gone. My question is, which method would you recommend to fix that thread? The primary cover is aluminum. And of course there’s an o-ring which seals the fluid. Thanks in advance.
To pull out the shavings from a pistón use an adapted small long rubber hose to a high performance vacuum. It works perfect! Then you check with the snake camera.
Quick tip from a machinist here, DO NOT PUT HELI-COILS IN EVERYTHING! THEY DO NOT SEAL AIR OR LIQUIDS! So if something needs to hold pressure or liquid in it use a different insert to repair the hole. Something like a slimsert or a keensert.
For added information, that thread chaser is a form tap with a very short taper. You could do the same with any form tap that matches your threads It might be easier to use a tap with more taper to line up with threads that are still good. 15 dollars will get you a good form tap with a nice 5 or so thread taper. On top of that, thread forming is great on steels because it work hardens the steel and makes it more resistant to wear.
And if you want to use a helicoil, you can order whats called an STI tap. It's the standard tap for helicoil inserts. Also, straight flute taps are garbage if you can avoid it, they don't clear chips or have very good strength. Spiral flute taps push all that metal out towards the top of your hole so you don't have to back it all the way out to clear it. The downside is that spiral flute taps don't always like to straighten themselves out like straight flute taps and spiral point taps do. Having a lot of taper is a good thing if you're working with a thru hole. If you have a blind hole, or a hole that terminates within the material, you can always start with a taper tap and then finish it off with a bottoming tap. Machining knowledge is useful sometimes... only sometimes.
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So glad you said stripping the thread. Not I threaded it.
I hate people that say they threaded something when the mean and should have said they striped the thread
This video needs an update to include the locktite form-a-thread option.
That neon sign is lit. Also - did you customize your sling with ROK straps? That's peak motorcyclist right there. ~RF9
Hey Ryan!
Yessir, ROK strap FTW. The sling is supposed to apply tension between my clavicle and elbow to help pin the clavicle down while the ligaments heal, but the buckle kept slipping and the webbing had zero elasticity. Total shit design that I'm fairly certain was thought up circa WWII. Slapped a ROK strap on there and it was a huge improvement in comfort.
Been watching a ton of both your videos recently after getting back into motorbiking after a hiatus. Excellent top notch videos from both of you! BTW heal up fast Ari.
ROK straps are trash. On mine the buckles don't grip the straps so they slide loose.
imagine if the neon sign is actually a vfx...
I'm not sure which hurts more: Ari's shoulder or his soul from intentionally stripping that drain thread. I hope both get a speedy recovery.
Ari repairs a bike with only one arm 👍
Hey Man Thank You Have Not Owned a bike in years! But you have saved me a lot of time and money on a damaged oil pan for my truck. I had a bolt seize in there and then finally broke loose but still spinning. When were able to get this out you have saved me man!! I really Appreciate it!!! :) :)
It will be a sad day when Ari & Zack retire.
I literally got into motorcycles because of these 2 & their bromance!
You bet, luckily that ain't happening anytime soon I'm sure!
Stop hurting yourself, man. This community can't afford to lose you.
The job he is doing for this community kind of involves hurting himself from time to time. Have to respect it.
Could you imagine having to rely on Yammie Noob for entertainment? 😓😓🤢
@@AndrewDasilvaPLT That dude still exists? I thought he was launched into orbit?
@@zdc590 We can only pray. 😓🙏🙏
Bruh why the hate??????
Grease on the tap to catch the metal filings.
Good trick! I learned something today.
This was an extremely well done and informative post (as usual) - Bravo. Sorry to see that you clipped your wing, Ari, but that's why we love ya - you are the real deal. Great stuff.
I hope you're ok. I've heard that torn ligaments can hurt pretty bad.
Love that you're still doing videos though, this series is incredible.
I'm outta the sling and mostly recovered, thanks!
@@AriH211 That's great to hear! Hopefully you get out for some nice riding again soon.
@@AriH211 VERY glad to hear that, Brother!!!
Strangely enough, when people tear their ACL they say that it was a painful pop and then after a couple minutes stopped hurting and they felt like they could walk on it again, which is a bad idea because the ligament is torn lol.
Godspeed on healing!!!!! As always, the best videos on the subject avail ANYWHERE today!!!🤘🏼🤘🏼
Wishing you fast recovery man so you and zack can do more CTXP videos!
We're filming another CTXP this week!
Excellent comparison test! Thank you! As a machinist, I've only ever installed helicoils in aluminum aerospace parts. Always wondered why we never use timeserts but your video cleared that up for me!
Just goobered up one of my spark plug holes recently. Got a tap called a back tap. This tap chases the threads in reverse, reducing the potential for getting junk in the cylinder head like a normal thread chaser would.
Extra cash but well worth it!
I'm getting very good ryanf9 vibes from this video. I want more.
To keep shavings from falling into the cylinder, set the piston at bottom dead center and fill the cylinder with shaving foam. Once you're done creating shrapnel, turn the engine over to squeeze out the foam which will carry out the shavings.
Interesting idea!
Nah, id rather just take the head off. Much less messy
@@HvV8446 why? All that work
@@RaindropConstruction Absolute no guarantee you won't lose a shaving. I've had freshly rebored cylinders ruined by a few grains of missed shot blasting media in the past. Let alone metal shavings. It's just not worth the risk with a cylinder.
@@tedmagnum6968 I'd rather risk some soft aluminum shavings in the cylinder that will get blown out within the first few cycles vs taking apart the entire top end, any damage they do is negligible
Oversizing the hole to next level by drilling and tapping has worked for me well.
Finally! I know the right way to do this! Thanks for all the great knowledge Ari! Get better soon!
Wishing you a fast recovery.
You guys are blessed living on a 1st world country, I was sent from the US long time ago as a General Director of a NYC company out of the 500 fortune magazine. Long story short I got engaged with a native woman, then again and now I live here permanently. I do part time mechanic only in our cars. All the tools here are imported, kits like this or other high tech tools are imported as well. The trash they sell here is all made in China. Local shops are big scammers. Something sold in the US for 20 USD cost 60 here. The things is if they sent the wrong part you're screwed. I wish I had never left the USA.
I second zdc590. Your production quality and content is truly excellent and that's coming from someone who spent more than 15 years in New Zealand and Japan being part of video and film productions. Thank you and stay safe.
The TimeSert likely pulled out earlier because it's designed to have the bolt head against it, for the correct depth. It likely would have snapped the head of the bolt off if used as intended to make a flush surface for the bolt head.
Thanks Ari for the video... Get well soon Ari...
Great information! But!! A quick trick. Instead of a thread chaser he first showed.. you can cut grooves “flutes” into a bolt. And it works the exact same! I’ve done it several times! This only fixes holes that are cross threaded.
Bonus tip! If you strip out a bolt hole, cut a piece of steel wire, and put it in the hole, and insert the bolt. This does work! Ari is showing the right way to do this. But if you need help in a pinch you can cut some corners.
Thanks for the video! I always wondered what I would have to do in case I ruin the oil-plug threads.
Wishing you a fast recovery from your injury!
Phenomenal video, the insert comparison at the end was great.
This is the best video on this subject that Ive ever seen.
I always learn something from you.
I hope your shoulder heals quickly.
Thank you
This is a great video, straight to the point and easy to understand. I just installed not one but 2 helicoils on my Versys 650 using this video as a tutorial. Overtightened a couple bolts on my new aluminum hand guard brackets and striped the threads. Lot cheaper than new brackets! Plus I have a new trick in the toolbox for next time… I’m sure this won’t be the last time I mess up some threads. Thank you Ari for the great video and helping me fix my mistake!
Ari single-handedly testing the repair methods.
Well this settles the debate on whether or not helicoils are weak!! Awesome video
This was a really well done video. Awesome video with no time wasting and just pure knowledge. Thank you!
Ouch! Hope you recover quickly and well, Ari! Thanks for another great video!
wishing you a speedy recovery mate. Get well soon.
I've seen JB Weld used to fix a cracked block on an 120 Mercury Outboard. That's when I realized how JB Weld can be used and how great it is.
Wishing you a quick recovery.
I've the same problem on my cbr 250r oil cover.. I temporarily solved the problem by putting a little bigger bolt but the next time I open it I'll be needing helicoil. Thanks Ari.. Love you bro.
I've used an insert before that is like a time sert, but it has a knurled top edge and it comes with a special punch to flare out the top knurling to hold it into place once screwed in. Worked great on my kz650 oil drain plug.
I was looking for comparisons on the Helicoil and timesert for another application, but this video was absolutely perfect even though I don’t ride motorcycles lol
Ride safely everyone, I had this accident that have cost me a permanent injury on my right hand. Thankfully I can still continue to ride my bike daily. May we all stay safe all the time. Cheers
Had the bolt snap on the clutch cover. Ended up sticking a helicoil in it as I’m pretty used to doing that at the machine shop I work at. Another awesome video. 🙌🏻
Had never heard of a thread chaser until this repair video. Good to know it exists rather than jumping straight to a tap-and-die system. Just used JB Weld for first time repairing a tail trunk - fiberglass tape plus epoxy. Not pretty but hopefully it'll hold.
I really wish I saw this video years ago! Greta job and get well soon Ari!
JB weld is great for fixing damaged sealing surfaces. Had a track drive on a 200T crane bearing come apart and gouged the sealing surface. A new output drive was 6 weeks out, so me and the other mechanic decided to buy all the JB weld the local parts house had in stock and we filled in the gouges then used fine emery cloth with oil to smooth it out. That was 8 years ago and it still hasn't leaked.
This was a great vid covering something we’re all bound to encounter at least once. Looking forward to another one covering rounded & broken off bolt heads!
Yup, it's on the list.
I hope you get well soon , please take care of you self Ari. And keep up the good work , really apriciat the video thanks
For non critical fixings you can wind a thin piece of copper wire around your bolt. The soft copper will fill in the spaces caused by the stripping. I used that trick on a sprocket cover where the thread in the engine block was stripped.
Can you do a video about how to get a stripped phillips head screw out?
Thanks and I hope you recover quickly.
This was a good video. I stripped a plug thread once at the track. Tossed JB weld on it and let it cure overnight. It held for 2 seasons before I needed to change plugs and just swapped the head. Works in a pinch, but like the video isn’t a good repair option.
Thanks for the video, Ari! Wishing for your speedy recovery.
If you don't have a thread chaser and you've done the thing that sometimes happens where you've somewhat mangled all the threads, but not totally removed them, taking a clean bolt of the correct size and driving it in 1 full turn at a time (i.e. 1 turn, back out, clean hole and bolt, 2 turns, back out, clean whole and bolt, and so on until you've done all the threads), it can save you in a pinch.
We need way more Ari and Zack videos!
I thought time-serts were supposed to be stronger than helicoils?
The test rig had no supporting clamping pressure on the timesert, and was therefore not representative of the real use case
Very good presentation - and thanks for testing JB Weld.
Finally a new video of The Shop Manual!!!
You should have your own channel !!! :D
De-fi-ne-tly !
@@matiaswagner9810 this show it's the only reason why I subscribed. Great Job Ari!
Thanks! Love your site by the way; always buy gears from you guys. I'm glad I watched this as I wasn't 100% sure if the JB Weld would actually hold...I'm going to use Helicoil!
I've seen a pro mechanic install a Timesert to fix spark plug threads with the head intact, they put the cylinder in TDC making sure valves were closed then they used grease to catch most shavings and after used compressed air to get all shavings out. So probably possible just have to be extra careful
Also boroscope + microvacuum tube
Just overtightened my drain bolt. This couldn't have come at a better time.
Excellent video. I actually remember pulling threads out of a magnesium fork when removing V-brake bolts. They put red loctite on them which pulled the threads right out. It was a crappy Rockshox fork on a 1995 Specialized Rockhopper A1 Comp (which I still have, with new fork, etc.).
Another awesome episode, Ari. Heal fast!
Excellent video Ari, get well soon.
Timesert is the shit! Used it to fix bottom drain plug on my vtx 1300. It has two drain plugs. Kept leaking. I called their customer service and they said it had to be tightened more. I felt like I was stripping it again just like Ari says in the video. But, after that it never leaked again and is more solid then a new bike!
Thank's for sharing that! I have the same problem now on my vtx 1300S :( i love that bike bro. I have been searching Timesert in mexican stores and have not found it, where did you buy It? Do you apply the torque that service manual says? If i am right says that is 22lb-ft for both drain plugs.
I am thinking about to use heli coil as a posible solution becauase i can found it with a quickly shipping in my country, but if fails, i go with the timesert.
Keyserts are another option too. Great Video !!
Wishing you a fast recovery!
Personally, I stripped out the drain plug on my V-Star. Another option, which I used, was to tap a new hole and use an oversized bolt with a crush washer.
I wouldn't recommend this on areas where you have limited metal or bolt space, but for the drain plug it worked like a charm. Also don't use this on areas with a higher torque spec. I suspect the high torque on a larger-than-spec bolt could just lead to another stripped out hole. Then you're really f***ed.
Did the whole helicoil rigmarole a couple of months before this video, it was for one of the tank holes on the aluminium frame. Super nerve-racking procedure!!. Make sure you use cutting oil, will make everything go smoothly.
This is so useful. That what i said to the mechanic to just rethread or something but he told me to just get a new engine case. never came back
nice to see I'm not the only one who is heavy into the gospel of Rok Straps, never thought of using them on a shoulder sling though. Get well soon.
It was a huge improvement for the sling, which is supposed to hold down the clavicle while the ligaments mend.
Great video. Hope your shoulder feels quickly.
yeah last year bought a used sv1000s. had no major problems, went to change the oil. saw that they had a temperary rubber plug, which was working. Decided to use an insert and used the wrong Tap w/ Red locktite long story short had to rebuild the entire engine with an ebay crankcase, but hey she runs like a beauty though. Moral of the story, use your brain and stress less about getting your bike rideable within a day, spend the few extra bits of time to do it right :)
Great video. I had to learn this stuff the hard way.
We can't afford to lose you sir😣😣😣😣
Im from Philippines sir your biggest fan👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋👋
The best mechanic i only rely on my motorcycle.
I think it would be fair to mention the option to make a thread for a bigger bolt. Not as neat, but better emergency repair then JB weld.
Thx for the video helped me fix cross threads on my frame!
As a professional mechanic and later a shop owner, I have used time serts since the 70s. I had a few real life run ins with helicoils which caused me to pull my hair out and vowed to never use them. Yes, I'm talking about failures. So yes time serts cost but they will work basically forever. So pay now or cry later. And yes, I fixed situations that would have cost a cyl head by using and slightly modifying time serts on a few engines and the fix was permanent.
The JB weld makes a great pipe dope for sloppy pipe threads. I’ve even used it on the manifold of my California air tools compressor that is made out of aluminum, and it’s lasted more than two years.
Thanks for the amazing content Ari. I hope you recover well!
Best shop manual yet.
I've used JBWeld to hold nutserts in place after drilling the hole out. This approach worked, but at the end of the day the JBWeld was holding in the nutsert, which acted like a time-sert. I used this approach on a Jeep Wrangler Brake Caliper. I think this could work for this application as well, but I also think the helicoil and time-serts would be the best approach.
Have previously raced a CBR600 with helicoiled front brake calipers. I was dreadful, but not because of the brakes; they were fine 👍
I cross threaded one of the holes on the bottom of the fork where the caliper mounts to trying to bolt the caliper back on. Luckily the shop was able to fix it using one of these methods I’m sure. Now I just have one larger bolt and 3 stock ones. Better than replacing an entire fork!
Great video as always Ari. Heal-up quick and completely amigo.
Hope you heal quickly.
We use both the Helocoil and the TimeSerts great products.
Fast recovery 🙏 Ari
I've used a timesert on a spark plug hole without removing the head. No shavings ended up in the cylinder. I used a lot of grease and first made sure the exhaust valves were open. Once I was done installing the time setting I used compressed air to blow any shavings out the plug hole.
Get well asap :) all the best from Thailand
Excellent video.
I've started using a 1/4" drive more often to counter my He-Man strength. lol.
Good move to counter the "tighter must be better", "I wouldn't want it to loosen" 😉
Sounds like me!
Nothing worse than feeling the downward slope on the stress-strain diagram
When the righty-tighty becomes a righty-loosey 😬
Very clear explanation. Get well soon!
get well soon brother....
Incredibly useful to someone who killed many a caliper bolt threads
First off, thank you for what you do! You're always my first goto repair education for my bike (2017 HD Dyna Lowrider). This video really hits home and definitely will invest in helicoil. Question I have is depth: how do you know how deep you need to go? Example, exhaust studs! It was a sad day!
Hope you get better and I'll let you know how it turns out. Take it easy!
For the sparkplugs thread : a vaccum cleaner is very good at removing the bits that fall into the cylinder. Just adapt a hose of the hole diameter to it (Apollo13 style), turn the engine to have the intake valves open , check with a cheap borescope.
Before starting work : have the piston near the top intake vale open, stuff the hole with a rag or adhesive tape. then vacuum what you can while working. Use some pliers to extract the rag or tape once finished.
Ways faster than removing the head.
Ive been told the time sert is the best option although it can be 5 to 10 times more than the helicoil kit. I just put a time sert on my Triumph after stripping a cam cover bolt. It was my first time doing it. Not too hard.
As always, you make great vids and wishing you get better brother.
Awesome video. Glad I found it. Recently stripped the thread where the clutch cable goes into the primary cover. Thread is completely gone. My question is, which method would you recommend to fix that thread? The primary cover is aluminum. And of course there’s an o-ring which seals the fluid. Thanks in advance.
To pull out the shavings from a pistón use an adapted small long rubber hose to a high performance vacuum. It works perfect! Then you check with the snake camera.
Ari just endorsed an arm sling....I want one too.... searching Revzilla.
Quick tip from a machinist here, DO NOT PUT HELI-COILS IN EVERYTHING! THEY DO NOT SEAL AIR OR LIQUIDS! So if something needs to hold pressure or liquid in it use a different insert to repair the hole. Something like a slimsert or a keensert.
For added information, that thread chaser is a form tap with a very short taper. You could do the same with any form tap that matches your threads It might be easier to use a tap with more taper to line up with threads that are still good. 15 dollars will get you a good form tap with a nice 5 or so thread taper. On top of that, thread forming is great on steels because it work hardens the steel and makes it more resistant to wear.
And if you want to use a helicoil, you can order whats called an STI tap. It's the standard tap for helicoil inserts. Also, straight flute taps are garbage if you can avoid it, they don't clear chips or have very good strength. Spiral flute taps push all that metal out towards the top of your hole so you don't have to back it all the way out to clear it. The downside is that spiral flute taps don't always like to straighten themselves out like straight flute taps and spiral point taps do.
Having a lot of taper is a good thing if you're working with a thru hole. If you have a blind hole, or a hole that terminates within the material, you can always start with a taper tap and then finish it off with a bottoming tap.
Machining knowledge is useful sometimes... only sometimes.