Stuff I used in the video: Spring loaded center punch: amzn.to/3FLO6Ex Basic SAE Tap : amzn.to/3lu7DCQ Basic Metric Taps : amzn.to/3z3NYfS Loctite stick RED High Strength: amzn.to/408E7kU better than liquid Hand sharpen drill bits: th-cam.com/video/88-IbTTCHoI/w-d-xo.html After Thoughts about the Video: Yes, my eyeballomometer is off and I drilled the top hole slightly crooked. There are plenty of techniques I would have utilized if this was a real repair. I do think this is stronger and a more reliable repair than the Heli-coil spring. Use a standard taper tap too allow the repair sleeve to lock in on a blind and thru hole. Grade 5, 8 and higher bolts start to get nearly impossible to hand tap and there's a chance you'll break a tap or start to remove the repair insert. Grade 2 is generally far stronger than the material your threading into. Loctite primer: mainly just speeds up curing time but isn't necessary. Loctite also isn't 100% necessary, it just adds reassurance. I put approx 8 dimples on each bolt but you can do even more if you're concerned there wasn't enough locking force when you screw it in. SUPPORT THE CHANNEL or support the SHOP DOG's treat addiction: Buy Ginger a new bone: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=NS699E56WTYHL instagram.com/sixtyfiveford/ facebook.com/sixtyfiveford/ Ginger Birthday wish list www.amazon.com/registries/birthday/1JJFHIQRBY14H/guest-view 65 Ford 65Ford SFF
Good tip! If you chuck the bolts up in a drill press with a drill bit in a vise below the bolt (think vertical lathe, workpiece spins, drill stays stationary), you could center drill the bolt before you install it. I do this by first chucking the drill bit in the drill press upside down, then clamp it in my drill press vise and unchuck it. That gets the drill bit in perfect alignment with the spindle. Then I chuck the bolt up and drill away. You may need to grind the bolt head flat so the drill bit doesn't walk around on the markings on the bolt head. This would guarantee the hole would be perfectly centered and true and would also be one less operation to do in place.
I've done that "homemade helicoil", and it worked great! I drilled & tapped the center of the insert bolt before installing. I used a drill press "backward" to ensure the hole was centered, with the bolt in the chuck & the drill bit in the vice. Timing belt tensioner on a Honda J30… It held together until the car was totalled (over 10 years).
When you put the cover back on to spot the bolts to mark for center,use transfer punch to mark center,take cover back off then use w cent3r drill instead of a drill this way you won't wall of you mark. Just my $.02 worth coming from a retired machinist of 40 years experience. Keep the vids coming to Pittsburgh Pa
You are absolutely one of the greatest “Grass Roots” mechanics, engineers, welders, metallurgists, and downright cool-ass dudes in the world. If I need to do something out of the ordinary and get into the head-scratching moment of how I’m gonna do it…. I absolutely check your channel FIRST. I go to you for the knuckle busting knowledge, and “AvE” channel for side busting comedy and knowledge. The video you made that saved the day for me, was how to un-warp a cylinder head with a torque-plate and careful application of heat. I had an extremely rare cylinder head allegedly “bEyOnD rEpAiR”, and thanks to that video, it’s held up for 65k miles so far. Thank you for all your hard work in the trenches to bring us these awesome videos. You’re a true rockstar! 🤘🏻😋🤘🏻
Ingenious method for when your in a bind or broke. A situation I find myself in quite frequently. Dude, your hand sharpening for that drill bit was impressive. Eyecrometer was spot on that day.👀
There are actually 3 types of taps, tapered, plug & bottoming. You should start with a tapered so that the threads will be square to the mating surface. The tap you are using is a plug tap. That is the common type found in kits. For blind holes you need the bottoming tap. A helicoil is a good repair for aluminum because the OD of the helicoil is roughly the equivalent of the next size bolt. On the steel insert sleeves: We used a type in aviation that had 2 stakes on each side to keep it from backing out when you remove the bolt. They take some special tools & are not an option for general use due to the cost. If you use a steel insert & the insert backs out when you remove the bolt you can be in a world of hurt. We used them in aluminum & titanium.
One of the best channels on TH-cam for sure. You have so much practical real world advice. I appreciate all of your tips and things you have shared. And I love Ginger!
Another excellent tip from one of the best channels on TH-cam! I've done this successfully multiple times..... The only thing different that I do, is drill/thread the insert on a lathe prior to installing- Great job and thanks!
I cannot believe how simple and obvious this was. Right in our face this whole time. You sir are a genius. Thank you for taking the time to show us this amazing trick. Take care and God bless.
I do this every day. Some tips. Mcmaster carr has a great selection of threaded inserts if you don't want to do the extra work. Forget heli-coils , they suck. Once you grind it flat and put the cover on, use a transfer punch to punch the exact center instead of the drill bit. Next use a center drill on that punch mark. Then use the tap drill. To keep the holes square, I use a drill/tap guide. Its a block of steel with all the different size holes in it for drilling and tapping nice and straight/square. These items can be found. . Transfer punch set, center drill, drill block. search for them. Nice job on sharpening the drill bits by hand. It's a valuable skill that seems to be lost. I prefer to use a flat belt sander. Everyone has a preference. 👍✌
Can get threaded inserts at Grainger on the cheap too. However, his method , the threads go all the way into the bottom of the hole rather then just the height of a 1/2 inch insert.
How about filling the hole with epoxy/brazing rod/ 'alumaweld'? Will these things stand up to engine heat? Mount the unit on a drill press. Find the location of the hole. Then fill the hole. Then drill and tap a properly located and orientated hole.
All the tips are GREAT. I must admit, I've fixed a lot of stripped threads, and re-tapped a lot of holes that had frozen bolts in them and I learned a lot from this video!
He's smarter than you think! Playing dead is embarrassing to him. The improvised thread repair was what we did on Sunday afternoons in the 1960s when no stores were open to get parts. Good Luck, Rick
I have been watching you’re videos for as long as I can remember I have never ever had to complain about one of you’re videos because I love them and enjoy them and I really appreciate you taking the time for me and everyone to enjoy thanks
Excellent stuff. I worked for some major Aerospace suppliers coming up with repairs like this. Always impressive to see different and creative ways to handle screw-ups! Thank you!
Good, simple, old school advice.. This can be done laying on your back under a car and in a lot of cases, you can do oil pan bolts without removing the pan.. ...... Glad you mentioned use a #2 bolt,, the harder the bolt the harder it is to drill.. I might suggest that a drill guide/block be used to keep the hole straight.. You can buy a cheap one or make one for free with a small hunk of steel and a drill press..........
Best video ive seen on youtube in ages. Thanks for the knowledge buddy. This is invaluable to know. Your dog is a beauty and so smart and well trained. Keep up the great work Lad 🇺🇸🇮🇪
This is great. I had no idea where you were going with that until halfway, but damn, I will surely use this. I'll use a drill press though, I would have totally skewed that hole drilling it by hand.
Nice tip, my dad was a machinist making armored freedom getters, I got more drills and taps than any man ever needed, its both a blessing and a curse, just so many. Starrett has a drill/tap selector guide for easy determination of your drill size. You should do the hoodie string delete, how often do you really cinch it up anyhow. ps I like your battery placement right by the bench grinder, as an electronic/computer tech of over 40 years, fizit pop always brings a smile to my face, I mean it may not happen, but it possibly could too.
As a gen tech who gets free swag from the factories , I just shake my head at the strings in the hoodies. Instead of removing them ,I just shove them down my shirt. No doubt on the safety thing, I plan on retiring with all my body parts (except part of my mind 😂)
My brother has a problem very similar to this on his mower. Someone installed a heli-coil on one side where the starter mounts and this may be the solution needed to fix it. I have the taps and dies but no way to remove the heli-coil. I know there are tools to do this but to do this one job I may just drill it out and tap it with the correct size bolt using a similar method as yours. Good Timing on seeing this. *I can't believe anyone would think Ginger isn't well-trained or smart. She is smarter than some people I have encountered, that's for sure.*
Talking about tap drill sizes, here’s something I learned as a machinist. Just subtract the pitch from the diameter. Example: 1/4-20 Figure out the pitch of 20 per inch. 1 divided by 20 equals .05. Subtract .05 from .250 and you get .200. Number seven drill is .201 which is the proper drill size per tap drill charts. Works for all sizes for general purposes. There is different classes of thread that can get more complicated but for around the shop/garage this is fine. Metric is even easier. It already tells you. M6x1.0 pitch takes a 5mm drill. Hope this helps someone. Hope this helps someone.
Nice Job Moe . Another Great Tip. Ginger is Smart As A Whip. You've Done Some Great Training With Her. You Spent A Lot Of Time With Your Dog 🐶 Cheers To You. Gingers the Coolest !
I’m just sitting over here drinking my morning coffee and watching this TH-cam mechanic genius beat the crap out of a broken engine so I can pick up some other stripped threads fixing technique’s and I’ll be completely honest when you slipped off there and dang near dove into that little engine and broke your drill bit I was just laughing my ass off and yelling mother of mercy…what a goon! Right! LMFFAO! Then you strolled on over to the bench grinder and did a very nice job with your hand sharpening of that bit and then you little tricky devil… you went right from the silly drill breaker to the Super Star bit maker!!! That’s a fantastic cutting tool that you just whipped right up there Cowboy!!! Those little relief faces will have that mofo drilling though everything like it’s warm butter!!! Hell yeah man!!! Totally impressed and I’ll be a watching every video you have made!!! You The Man!!!
Hi I need some help sir your video has inspired me to go out and get a 420 cc engine and build it to put on my new minibike. I’m having an issue with the oil fill wires I removed leaving a hole so I tap 7/18-20 and I tap hole and it’s first time doing this kind of stuff however when I go to put the bolt in 718 half-inch bolt it’s really loose fitting but it kind of grabs on but then once it goes all the way in and I think it’s about to get all the way tight it doesn’t. It just gets really loose at the point it’s supposed to be tight. ?
I've always used heli-coils, but I do like your method, especially if I didn't have the right size heli-coil. Ginger is one smart dog, and the star of the show. It's too bad Yoda's not that smart, but that is my fault for not putting in the effort to train him. Although he is a cute dog and very well behaved.
KD used to make a kit that included solid inserts and a tap. Repaired many old Volkswagon heads that way, while on the engine. Call it an a$$ saver. 👍🍻
This is good info. Thanks. I wanted to comment on something else though. You have lost a serious amount of weight. I don’t know if anybody else has noticed but you look good. Healthy and fit. 👍
In tests helicoils out-performed timeserts. The simplicity of the spring thread is what gives it its performance. I have a range of thread inserts (non-branded helicoil type) that I use all the time and the repair on two stripped out bolts on my shredder motor was much quicker than shown here. the issue with drilling down a bolt as shown is that it is ridiculously easy to veer off into the surrounding metal, and then you have a REAL problem.
This john deere mechanic middle 20s didn't know how to sharpen a drill bit. Another guy that worked there said he just picked up a cabinet and these tray boxes of drill bits. Just under 3000$. And the chain saw didn't know how to sharpen the chain. I was going to buy a chainsaw that took the same chain. There must of been a couple dozen chains in the steel bin. All they needed was to be sharpened. Unreal!
Great video, as always. Honestly though, I'd watch just to see Ginger's intelligence! Heelers are just awesome. I've got a transmission case (4L60E) with one of the pump bolt holes broken. About a quarter of the outer diameter around the threads is gone. I do have the piece that broke out, but I don't have a TIG welder. What are my options?
That's a fun one. So the aluminum is broken away from the bolt hole. You could take the case to a machine shop or welder to just quickly weld a clob. Then you drill tap it. I've done similar things in the past and you cost me either a case of beer or 20 spot if I was super nice to them. That's kind of hit or miss though. If it's just one bolt hole and there's enough other bolts to hold it; so it's just redundancy. You have a few other options. You could change it from a bolt to a stud with a nut. So create a stud that's down in the block held in there with some good epoxy and then using nut to lightly cinch it down. You could go deeper and or put a nut from the back side if there's room (likely not). Whoever those are all kind of sketchy when it takes so much effort to remove a transmission. They do sell aluminum Brazing rod that you can get enough heat with propane torch to glob it in. That stuff's okay. I have a video on it, but it's kind of finicky.
OK I love the punch idea. The last time I did similar to this I never cut the bolts off going to studs but I like your idea of filling it and redrilling it. and tap.
That dog is just amazing. How hard is it today to find a grade 2 bolt? Seems like all I've ever seen is 5 and 8. Drilling out a bolt and remaining on center, especially with something as small in diameter as 5/16", is just about impossible for me. Even with the work clamped in to position in a drill press. What I've found improves accuracy and lessens room for failure is to 'step up' to the size of the target diameter beginning with a 1/16" bit, skip every other size or two or so. It's a hassle to have to change in and out all those bits but the results are worth it.
Nice. I need to rewatch the drill bit sharpening video I picked up a bench grinder with an angle slot but my bits are still dull. I bet Ginger could sharpen bits better than me.
Shhhhhh, don't alert the safety trolls. 100% this is better than helicoils but helicoils are so quick ☺ If you make your threaded repair rod with a split die you can make oversized and make it lock better... More importantly all though we know ginger st the brains behind this channel Thanks for the videos ginger 💚😄
Great tip!!! I have used the certs in spark plug holes but never made one. I have a few applications where I will be using this. If I video it I will be sure to mention where I got the idea. Ginger is still the star ⭐⭐⭐ Stay well, Joe Z
Stuff I used in the video:
Spring loaded center punch: amzn.to/3FLO6Ex
Basic SAE Tap : amzn.to/3lu7DCQ
Basic Metric Taps : amzn.to/3z3NYfS
Loctite stick RED High Strength: amzn.to/408E7kU better than liquid
Hand sharpen drill bits: th-cam.com/video/88-IbTTCHoI/w-d-xo.html
After Thoughts about the Video: Yes, my eyeballomometer is off and I drilled the top hole slightly crooked. There are plenty of techniques I would have utilized if this was a real repair. I do think this is stronger and a more reliable repair than the Heli-coil spring. Use a standard taper tap too allow the repair sleeve to lock in on a blind and thru hole. Grade 5, 8 and higher bolts start to get nearly impossible to hand tap and there's a chance you'll break a tap or start to remove the repair insert. Grade 2 is generally far stronger than the material your threading into. Loctite primer: mainly just speeds up curing time but isn't necessary. Loctite also isn't 100% necessary, it just adds reassurance. I put approx 8 dimples on each bolt but you can do even more if you're concerned there wasn't enough locking force when you screw it in.
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL or support the SHOP DOG's treat addiction:
Buy Ginger a new bone: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=NS699E56WTYHL
instagram.com/sixtyfiveford/
facebook.com/sixtyfiveford/
Ginger Birthday wish list www.amazon.com/registries/birthday/1JJFHIQRBY14H/guest-view
65 Ford 65Ford SFF
This really is one of the best channels around. Thank you for all your hard work in sharing!
Wow, thank you!
I definitely agree!!!
Most definitely!
Can we all agree, your pup is the star of the show!!
She's the frosting on the cake
She's a nice side act, but hell no. Gus is definitely the ace.
Good tip! If you chuck the bolts up in a drill press with a drill bit in a vise below the bolt (think vertical lathe, workpiece spins, drill stays stationary), you could center drill the bolt before you install it. I do this by first chucking the drill bit in the drill press upside down, then clamp it in my drill press vise and unchuck it. That gets the drill bit in perfect alignment with the spindle. Then I chuck the bolt up and drill away. You may need to grind the bolt head flat so the drill bit doesn't walk around on the markings on the bolt head. This would guarantee the hole would be perfectly centered and true and would also be one less operation to do in place.
Just get a step stud , common part
And it is easy to do with a drill and a grinder to make one.
Hi Jared, some of us don't have a drill press, so we have to do the best straight drill hole that we can by being very careful.
I've done that "homemade helicoil", and it worked great!
I drilled & tapped the center of the insert bolt before installing. I used a drill press "backward" to ensure the hole was centered, with the bolt in the chuck & the drill bit in the vice.
Timing belt tensioner on a Honda J30…
It held together until the car was totalled (over 10 years).
When you put the cover back on to spot the bolts to mark for center,use transfer punch to mark center,take cover back off then use w cent3r drill instead of a drill this way you won't wall of you mark.
Just my $.02 worth coming from a retired machinist of 40 years experience.
Keep the vids coming to Pittsburgh Pa
Absolutely. I was trying to simplify the process as much as possible. I can only imagine the comments trying to explain a center drill too people.
You are absolutely one of the greatest “Grass Roots” mechanics, engineers, welders, metallurgists, and downright cool-ass dudes in the world. If I need to do something out of the ordinary and get into the head-scratching moment of how I’m gonna do it…. I absolutely check your channel FIRST. I go to you for the knuckle busting knowledge, and “AvE” channel for side busting comedy and knowledge. The video you made that saved the day for me, was how to un-warp a cylinder head with a torque-plate and careful application of heat. I had an extremely rare cylinder head allegedly “bEyOnD rEpAiR”, and thanks to that video, it’s held up for 65k miles so far. Thank you for all your hard work in the trenches to bring us these awesome videos. You’re a true rockstar! 🤘🏻😋🤘🏻
65k that's awesome. I'm glad you liked the video and actually tried it.
Ingenious method for when your in a bind or broke. A situation I find myself in quite frequently. Dude, your hand sharpening for that drill bit was impressive. Eyecrometer was spot on that day.👀
Thanks
Spin the drill back & forth between your fingers and you’ll see any difference between the cutting edge flutes.
Love that "Eyecrometer" term haha😊
There are actually 3 types of taps, tapered, plug & bottoming. You should start with a tapered so that the threads will be square to the mating surface. The tap you are using is a plug tap. That is the common type found in kits. For blind holes you need the bottoming tap. A helicoil is a good repair for aluminum because the OD of the helicoil is roughly the equivalent of the next size bolt. On the steel insert sleeves: We used a type in aviation that had 2 stakes on each side to keep it from backing out when you remove the bolt. They take some special tools & are not an option for general use due to the cost. If you use a steel insert & the insert backs out when you remove the bolt you can be in a world of hurt. We used them in aluminum & titanium.
One of the best channels on TH-cam for sure. You have so much practical real world advice. I appreciate all of your tips and things you have shared. And I love Ginger!
Awesome! Thank you!
Another excellent tip from one of the best channels on TH-cam! I've done this successfully multiple times..... The only thing different that I do, is drill/thread the insert on a lathe prior to installing- Great job and thanks!
Lathe is the way to go.
I cannot believe how simple and obvious this was. Right in our face this whole time. You sir are a genius. Thank you for taking the time to show us this amazing trick. Take care and God bless.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
I think I'm pretty clever with my innovative repair techniques but this man is always two steps ahead.
I do this every day. Some tips. Mcmaster carr has a great selection of threaded inserts if you don't want to do the extra work. Forget heli-coils , they suck. Once you grind it flat and put the cover on, use a transfer punch to punch the exact center instead of the drill bit. Next use a center drill on that punch mark. Then use the tap drill. To keep the holes square, I use a drill/tap guide. Its a block of steel with all the different size holes in it for drilling and tapping nice and straight/square. These items can be found. . Transfer punch set, center drill, drill block. search for them. Nice job on sharpening the drill bits by hand. It's a valuable skill that seems to be lost. I prefer to use a flat belt sander. Everyone has a preference. 👍✌
Thanks for your input
To oan tech: Can you post a video of using a belt sander to sharpen a drill bit?
Can get threaded inserts at Grainger on the cheap too. However, his method , the threads go all the way into the bottom of the hole rather then just the height of a 1/2 inch insert.
How about filling the hole with epoxy/brazing rod/ 'alumaweld'? Will these things stand up to engine heat?
Mount the unit on a drill press. Find the location of the hole. Then fill the hole. Then drill and tap a properly located and orientated hole.
You are Always Saving us money.
Most others want us to spend money on something they got free.
Also love Ginger.
Hey thanks
All the tips are GREAT. I must admit, I've fixed a lot of stripped threads, and re-tapped a lot of holes that had frozen bolts in them and I learned a lot from this video!
Love your channel, I walk away every video with a new simple solution. Locking bolt by using a punch on the threads is genius!
Thank you very much!
He's smarter than you think! Playing dead is embarrassing to him. The improvised thread repair was what we did on Sunday afternoons in the 1960s when no stores were open to get parts. Good Luck, Rick
I have been watching you’re videos for as long as I can remember I have never ever had to complain about one of you’re videos because I love them and enjoy them and I really appreciate you taking the time for me and everyone to enjoy thanks
Excellent stuff. I worked for some major Aerospace suppliers coming up with repairs like this. Always impressive to see different and creative ways to handle screw-ups! Thank you!
Good, simple, old school advice.. This can be done laying on your back under a car and in a lot of cases, you can do oil pan bolts without removing the pan.. ...... Glad you mentioned use a #2 bolt,, the harder the bolt the harder it is to drill.. I might suggest that a drill guide/block be used to keep the hole straight.. You can buy a cheap one or make one for free with a small hunk of steel and a drill press..........
Absolutely.
Interesting method, there are some skilled technicians who actually know how to use tools and know what they’re doing!👍👍
Exactly the video I needed at the right time. Brass bleeder adapter broke on my atv caliper and I was trying find a way to fix it.
Best video ive seen on youtube in ages. Thanks for the knowledge buddy. This is invaluable to know. Your dog is a beauty and so smart and well trained. Keep up the great work Lad 🇺🇸🇮🇪
I love your puppy… such a great little very well behaved helper!!!
What a great idea. Much better than using the next size bigger bolt
One of the best channels; what dolt says your dog is not well trained? He is better than 85% of the people I run into
Thanks
Great suggestion/idea! Appreciate these 'innovative' tips to save time/money! Look forward to the next vid.
Thanks for watching!
I can't wait to try this! We'll actually I can, but next time the situation arises I'm definitely giving this a shot. Thanks for another great tip!
Thanks
This is great. I had no idea where you were going with that until halfway, but damn, I will surely use this. I'll use a drill press though, I would have totally skewed that hole drilling it by hand.
Drill press for sure makes it easier.
Excellent video, you are saving me a ton of head ache's. 👍
I'm constantly finding myself in such trouble. Thanks for showing a way out.
Genius! Been doing this for years works every time
Awesome
tried this method on some broken exhaust studs on a 280Z. Worked perfect Thanks a bunch.
Well done, man. Such a simple solution... definitely want to make sure the bolt you're going to be tapping into is as soft as possible.
I only know this as I've tried and failed.
His bolt is harder then the aluminum he originally had, now it is steel into steel. Much better clamping strength.
Thank you for the tip and have a blessed day today 🙏
Nice tip, my dad was a machinist making armored freedom getters, I got more drills and taps than any man ever needed, its both a blessing and a curse, just so many. Starrett has a drill/tap selector guide for easy determination of your drill size. You should do the hoodie string delete, how often do you really cinch it up anyhow.
ps I like your battery placement right by the bench grinder, as an electronic/computer tech of over 40 years, fizit pop always brings a smile to my face, I mean it may not happen, but it possibly could too.
As a gen tech who gets free swag from the factories , I just shake my head at the strings in the hoodies.
Instead of removing them ,I just shove them down my shirt.
No doubt on the safety thing, I plan on retiring with all my body parts (except part of my mind 😂)
@@MrTheHillfolk I usually only wear the hoodies when I'm fishing or hunting.
Wear the fleecy, its so comfy its kinda addictive.
I suggest you buy hundreds of silicon sachets that come in shoes. Scatter them near these tools. They'll absorb Maoist and prevent rust
Freedom getters. Right.
@@Spiritof_76 Worked for him, he was WWII tanker.
My brother has a problem very similar to this on his mower. Someone installed a heli-coil on one side where the starter mounts and this may be the solution needed to fix it. I have the taps and dies but no way to remove the heli-coil. I know there are tools to do this but to do this one job I may just drill it out and tap it with the correct size bolt using a similar method as yours. Good Timing on seeing this.
*I can't believe anyone would think Ginger isn't well-trained or smart. She is smarter than some people I have encountered, that's for sure.*
You can pick/pry out a helicoil with a small screwdriver. Once you get a piece out far enough to grab a pair of needle nose will easily screw it out.
GOOD fix and Ginger will ALWAYS come to your rescue and untie the hoodie cords! BLESSINHGS!
Talking about tap drill sizes, here’s something I learned as a machinist. Just subtract the pitch from the diameter. Example: 1/4-20 Figure out the pitch of 20 per inch. 1 divided by 20 equals .05. Subtract .05 from .250 and you get .200. Number seven drill is .201 which is the proper drill size per tap drill charts. Works for all sizes for general purposes. There is different classes of thread that can get more complicated but for around the shop/garage this is fine. Metric is even easier. It already tells you. M6x1.0 pitch takes a 5mm drill. Hope this helps someone. Hope this helps someone.
This is a great idea. With your lathe you can make one that would be just like the timecert. Thanks for all the videos and ideas!
You bet!
Wow another trick to add to my repertoire thanks for the invaluable knowledge
Great video, thanks. I always enjoy your channel.
I appreciate that!
Finally someone thought of this method and proved it works, welp time to do save a few motorized bicycle engines
This video was amazing I would've never thought of doing something this way.
Hey thanks
Nice Job Moe . Another Great Tip. Ginger is Smart As A Whip. You've Done Some Great Training With Her. You Spent A Lot Of Time With Your Dog 🐶 Cheers To You. Gingers the Coolest !
Thanks 👍
Great tip and great little friend you have there! Thanks for sharing!
Electrolysis will lock your insert in solid.. and long-term. Thanks for sharing your time and skill. 👍
Ginger is the Star of the show
Makita, dewalt AND milwaukee, no segregation with this guy!
I like to keep a bunch of threadserts in my most used sizes, but sometimes it's in one I don't have. Great tip in this one, thank you.
_In THIS particular scenario_ , I really like this method! (Aluminum block, lower power, lawn-mower, don't care about backyard methods)
That dog never fail's to amaze me. Alway's enjoy your video's.
Thank you very much!
Great video, Moe, as always! Thank you for sharing! And everyone loves Ginger!
Thanks for watching!
I’m just sitting over here drinking my morning coffee and watching this TH-cam mechanic genius beat the crap out of a broken engine so I can pick up some other stripped threads fixing technique’s and I’ll be completely honest when you slipped off there and dang near dove into that little engine and broke your drill bit I was just laughing my ass off and yelling mother of mercy…what a goon! Right! LMFFAO! Then you strolled on over to the bench grinder and did a very nice job with your hand sharpening of that bit and then you little tricky devil… you went right from the silly drill breaker to the Super Star bit maker!!! That’s a fantastic cutting tool that you just whipped right up there Cowboy!!! Those little relief faces will have that mofo drilling though everything like it’s warm butter!!! Hell yeah man!!! Totally impressed and I’ll be a watching every video you have made!!! You The Man!!!
I've got to get that drill sharpening thing down that came out awesome 👍
Thanks 👍
I'll have to try that next go around. Thanks for the tip!
Heelers are amazing dogs ☺️ I didn't know they were so handy with power tools though 😆
Hi I need some help sir your video has inspired me to go out and get a 420 cc engine and build it to put on my new minibike. I’m having an issue with the oil fill wires I removed leaving a hole so I tap 7/18-20 and I tap hole and it’s first time doing this kind of stuff however when I go to put the bolt in 718 half-inch bolt it’s really loose fitting but it kind of grabs on but then once it goes all the way in and I think it’s about to get all the way tight it doesn’t. It just gets really loose at the point it’s supposed to be tight. ?
I've always used heli-coils, but I do like your method, especially if I didn't have the right size heli-coil.
Ginger is one smart dog, and the star of the show. It's too bad Yoda's not that smart, but that is my fault for not putting in the effort to train him. Although he is a cute dog and very well behaved.
Cute is plenty when it comes to a dog.
KD used to make a kit that included solid inserts and a tap. Repaired many old Volkswagon heads that way, while on the engine. Call it an a$$ saver. 👍🍻
If you haven't subscribed, subscribe now. This guy will save you money and time. You are a legend!!
Hey thanks
This is good info. Thanks. I wanted to comment on something else though. You have lost a serious amount of weight. I don’t know if anybody else has noticed but you look good. Healthy and fit. 👍
Hey thanks
In tests helicoils out-performed timeserts. The simplicity of the spring thread is what gives it its performance. I have a range of thread inserts (non-branded helicoil type) that I use all the time and the repair on two stripped out bolts on my shredder motor was much quicker than shown here. the issue with drilling down a bolt as shown is that it is ridiculously easy to veer off into the surrounding metal, and then you have a REAL problem.
Great tip. 👍
this video was so cool and also very informative
This john deere mechanic middle 20s didn't know how to sharpen a drill bit. Another guy that worked there said he just picked up a cabinet and these tray boxes of drill bits. Just under 3000$.
And the chain saw didn't know how to sharpen the chain. I was going to buy a chainsaw that took the same chain. There must of been a couple dozen chains in the steel bin. All they needed was to be sharpened. Unreal!
I always learn from you! Thxs.
So nice of you
What a great tip... thanks for sharing! And Ginger put on quite the show stopper as well! She's a good girl!
Thanks
Definitely putting this in my back pocket for later, thanks!
My pitlab also has those hand verbal skills and that was a great video thank you.
Appreciate all your great tips......and the dog tricks at the end!❤
Thanks for watching!
Great video, as always. Honestly though, I'd watch just to see Ginger's intelligence! Heelers are just awesome.
I've got a transmission case (4L60E) with one of the pump bolt holes broken. About a quarter of the outer diameter around the threads is gone. I do have the piece that broke out, but I don't have a TIG welder. What are my options?
That's a fun one. So the aluminum is broken away from the bolt hole. You could take the case to a machine shop or welder to just quickly weld a clob. Then you drill tap it. I've done similar things in the past and you cost me either a case of beer or 20 spot if I was super nice to them. That's kind of hit or miss though. If it's just one bolt hole and there's enough other bolts to hold it; so it's just redundancy. You have a few other options. You could change it from a bolt to a stud with a nut. So create a stud that's down in the block held in there with some good epoxy and then using nut to lightly cinch it down. You could go deeper and or put a nut from the back side if there's room (likely not). Whoever those are all kind of sketchy when it takes so much effort to remove a transmission. They do sell aluminum Brazing rod that you can get enough heat with propane torch to glob it in. That stuff's okay. I have a video on it, but it's kind of finicky.
Yet another "Now why didn't I think of that" moment. This one defiantly ranks way up there. Thanks : ]
Thanks Man.
Great tip, as most of yours are.
Hand sharpening drill bits is a skill I have not mastered in 77 years, LOL!
Thanks
Jesus. What a great video…. Who would have thought using an big bolt to bore out for the right bolt. Outstanding….
If there is one thing i know it is that dog is more than well trained. Does better than i do. 😊
OK I love the punch idea. The last time I did similar to this I never cut the bolts off going to studs but I like your idea of filling it and redrilling it. and tap.
Thanks for that. This is a skill I will undoubtedly use in the future.
We hope we don't, but it always happens.
Another great tip in classic Sixty-five style
Good Puppy! Very, very smart!
That dog is just amazing.
How hard is it today to find a grade 2 bolt? Seems like all I've ever seen is 5 and 8.
Drilling out a bolt and remaining on center, especially with something as small in diameter as 5/16", is just about impossible for me. Even with the work clamped in to position in a drill press. What I've found improves accuracy and lessens room for failure is to 'step up' to the size of the target diameter beginning with a 1/16" bit, skip every other size or two or so. It's a hassle to have to change in and out all those bits but the results are worth it.
All the bolts in the bulk bins at home improvement stores are grade 2. You have to go into the specialty bins to find 5 and 8.
Just when I thought I knew everything...great tip.
Another great video with awesome tips and tricks, thanks, Moe!
Nice job 👍. Ginger listens better than her Master 😂😂
You got that right
Great video and a great dog !
Thank you very much!
Nice. I need to rewatch the drill bit sharpening video I picked up a bench grinder with an angle slot but my bits are still dull. I bet Ginger could sharpen bits better than me.
Go for it!
Very cool. I'm sure I'll end-up doing this someday.
I bought a time-cert kit for my camry $500. They include loctite to lock the insert I place.
Pricey
Great educational video and I love the Dog~!!!
Hey thanks
Shhhhhh, don't alert the safety trolls.
100% this is better than helicoils but helicoils are so quick ☺
If you make your threaded repair rod with a split die you can make oversized and make it lock better...
More importantly all though we know ginger st the brains behind this channel
Thanks for the videos ginger 💚😄
Sharp trick, drill bit, and dog!! 😀
Very smart way to fix this!
That was very helpful thanks 👍
Thanks
Fantastic! I only wish that I knew this tip as I worked on the BSA motorcycle when I had it.
Great tip I will definitely be putting that in my brain file
Excellent!
Dude, you're so badass that I told my wife about you and she got jealous!
Great contact as always.
Thanks again!
Great tip!!! I have used the certs in spark plug holes but never made one. I have a few applications where I will be using this. If I
video it I will be sure to mention where I got the idea.
Ginger is still the star ⭐⭐⭐
Stay well, Joe Z
Thanks
@@sixtyfiveford ..👌
Supadupa, simple but really great job and idea 💡 thanks for this inspiration and greetings to Ginger 🐶
Thank you!