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Great vid and I'm glad you covered the off-road reason. If your running low pressure you should also get a 'rimlock' to oppose the valve to stop the tube slipping. I don't know why it's not installed my default like it used to be on old dual sports but there's a hole in your rim with a rubber stopper to install one. I just have 1 nut and leave a good thread gap above the rim so I can see if the tubes slipping. If the nut moves it's not a big deal, you don't need a locking nut.
Well, on a bicycle it is just one nut, ring actually, on the outside, tightened down to the rim. I think correct way is two nuts on the outside thigh to the rim to keep the valve stem firm for inflating the tire, and the second nut is to prevent loosening from vibration. If you thigten two nuts like that together, they prevent each other from moving
@@Splarkszter Reddit exists. Anything specific like cars, tech or clubs will always have their own website and forums where it will be easy to find the wizards and novices on a given subject or object. As someone that uses car forums to fix my car and a reddit user of more than 15 years, I can attest to this. Reddit used to be fantastic in it's early days. Now the undesirables have discovered it and it has become trash.
It is important to place your nuts properly to keep the rubber product safe. Otherwise, rubber product can pop in a very not safe moment, then you’ll have to sell the motorcycle and buy a family oriented vehicle to drive your wife and a newborn around.
I've found over many years of riding; The correct nut positioning is one nut deep against the inside of the rim, and the other nut pressed snuggly against the outside of the rim. This installation method has helped to keep the wife and I wheels down more often than not. Remember: "You're never lost on a motorcycle".
yeah he's good, and not even American. When people from OTHER countries start having better vocabulary, wit, command of english then most Americans, that's sad AF.
@@wargamingrefugee9065 they still are but now, seeing how american english devolved to bottom tier, you'll have to go way lower than Nigeria or Kenya to find english-speaking people with a worse command of the language. 🤤
I learned this one from a guy who existed before tires had air in them. There's a dent where the stem goes through. You put the tire half on, stick the tube in and guide the stem through the hole then spin a nut on loose. You then inflate the tube limply and put the tire on the rest of the way. You then inflate the tire to ambient and bounce the tire on rim around gently. You then inflate the tire to 2-5psi to get a seating that aligns with the stem. You then back the single nut off a little and give the stem a couple pokes and a couple flicks then run the nut back on until you can feel the sharp tap of a little hammer on the rim the same on the stem as on the rim. You then run the second nut on while keeping the first one in place and torque them to the spec on the box against each other without gaining any tightness against the rim. You then do a couple miles on cobble/regular dirt road, deflate the tube, break the lock nut, reinflate to pressure and give the against-rim nut a little more torque (fingertip at one inch on the wrench) and then lock the second nut against it without putting on more torque. You then mark the nuts with an awl as well as leaving a line on the rim IN TWO PLACES so if the wuckfitt with the bike moves them you know and can kick him in the butt until he leaves. If the stem itself turns at any point in this you have to drain the tube, pull the nuts, take the tire halfway off and pull the stem out the side and inspect it for failures or damage and repeat the process. *If the rim contains an extra deep well nipple pointing inward designed for putting the first nut inside the rim while still having flush rim contact with the stem skirt then you put that inner nut in there and still ensure the stem doesn't turn and you add a third damned nut you buy yourself on the inner inside* because those rims exist and its also how you deal with converting a deep tubeless nipple to tubed. I miss anything? The guy like putting chewing gum around the stem at its skirt before he tightened in because some would come through and it would fluid seal the contact between the nut and the rim and you've always got gum to get rid of.
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Can I use an old nut off an old tube for the third nut? Or do I need to purchase new? If new, where does one purchase third nuts?
Them: have you watched that new big-budget fiction thing? Me: no, but I did watch a video about valve stems Them: oh, like a documentary on the development of the pneumatic tire and the engineering behind one-way valves? Me: no, specifically on where to put the included nuts on tubes for motorcycle tires depending on application Them: do you have a motorcycle? Me: no.
As a bicyclist I ran into the same issue. Since it is under less stress comparatively I went with NO nut and have experianced the shifting of the valve stem as you illustrated. I found it annoying but easily corrected.
@@darylSKYTZOwillis I like to think,too. Except when I don't want to because sometimes it's hard. When that happens ,I just go sit at a chair and turn my brain off and drool for a couple hours.
Figured the washer has a rounded profile to match the curve of the rim for a reason, so always placed it against the rim with double nut on the outside
My favoured positioning too, though I wouldn’t bother with the second nut. Only thing to watch is that the washer doesn’t fall off when changing the tyre and fall unnoticed into the tyre and stays there when refitting. That would probably cause a puncture at some later point.
Agreed. Great explanatory video. I was told many years ago to use the nut/nuts directly beneath the valve cap, to prevent inner tube damage if the tyre happens to slip, the wonky valve stem gives an indication if this has happened.
I dont really care about motorcycles and especially their tires but this video was extremely entertaining nonetheless. This is why i consider this channel one of my favorites
I am no gearhead or motorhead. I prefer stick shifts, I love the sounds of revving engines, I change my oil and spark plugs ... and that's about it. When I saw the title of this, my poor brain was confused. He's had so many alternative engine videos recently, almost all replacing poppet valves with something else, and I wondered, why are there nuts on valve stems? When I started watching and saw it was tire valve stems, I felt like the town idiot, but I also knew the answer, since I've ridden bicycles on streets and on dirt a lot. A great video, the reason I keep watching.
If you don't already I think you'd love the channel "This Old Tony". The subject of every video will be seemingly uninteresting, but the information will be presented in such a delightful way you can't help but watch more.
Excellent video: content, clarity, and delivery all top-notch. As the owner of a high power dual sport (690 enduro)... rimlocks are life, but I still hadn't put much thought into the valve stem nut location. Both tires had one nut inside, 1 nut outside done finger tight. The rear wheel has dual rimlocks, the front has none. Never torn a tube, but I run heavy duty tubes and only go low pressure (~12psi) for more technical lower speed terrain. 18 to 22psi depending on how much highway is going to be done. Great video. Very funny and informative.
Considering the joint design Michelin makes sense to me. Running the under the rim and over the rim would make sense if I wanted space between the place where the rubber meets the stem. Then I would put a flat or better a nut torqueing feature on the rim. The rim is curved. However I expect the stem can rest against the hole and if no space was wanted a shoulder on the stem would be better than a nut. The function I expect is to keep the stem outside of the rim when deflated. This is well accomplished with jammed nuts on the outside without contacting the curved rim surfaces. Could have done it with a clip but you get the threaded features free. Wouldn't have thought of the slip situation that sounds touchy and likely to still fail. Thanks for the episode per usual.
Great video. I went tubeless on my DR650. I sealed all spoke nipples on the rear tire and installed a rim clinching Schrader valve. The front I installed a Tu Blis system. Fast forward, I have completed the Northern California BDR the Arizona BDR and the LA B 2 V with no tire failures. Tubes are arcane. One just needs to be creative and think outside the box.
An old bush plane trick when running low air pressure is to spray the tire's bead with fan belt dressing before assembly. the stickiness will help keep the tire from spinning on the rim while pounding you airplane down somewhere in the bush and tearing off a valve stem.
I normally don't enjoy this type of video, but you did a good job of the format. First, entertaining, then subtly informative, then straight into the investigation and details, with jokes/gags sprinkled here and there. Overall a great video.
I was asking myself this question last night as I replaced a tyre on my dualsport. I concluded by putting the nut on the inside, tightened on the washer, but I added a layer of old inner tube in between like a small rubber washer to prevent the washer chaffing on the airtight rubber. Then all topped off with a loose nut on the outside and the dust cap to finish. .... I'm thinking of writing a PhD thesis based on this work. 😂
Great vid! Particularly since I'm swapping tires today on my 990. Ironically my 990 is the only bike were I've gotten that mystery rusty nut/washer as she spends as much time off road as on. Thanks for clearing up that mystery and a good chuckle.
@@asharak84 thanks, didn't notice that. There should be 3 nuts for a motorcycle inner tube stem, then it would be obvious one helps strengthen the base of tube inside wheel and two for locknuts above rim to hold it from sliding inside and for holding it firm to push down filling the valve.
This video was great. I recently install a new heavy duty tube on my crf450rx. Both nuts outside of rim. I like the concave washer against the rim. And I check my pressure before every ride
Cap, easiest example is back then valve checks where listed as simple maintenance items and nowadays it always says take it to the dealer on the maintenance schedule for that check
I just went through this “nuts” dilemma. Your video is awesome. You certainly captured the frustration of trying to find answers. Great explanation with your conclusions. Thanks!
7:37 that is why you use rim locks. And as far as I am concerned, there needs to be pressure applied to the domed washer at the valve, either with a nut on either side of the rim.
Thanks you for shining light on this obscure topic. If you ride with reduced tire pressures, then a rim lock will prevent the tire for slipping on the rim. In extreme cases, you can put two rim locks on a single rim.
For many years, every time I change the wheel tube, I have the same question in my mind: What is the correct configuration of these nuts, I was prefer to put the first nut on the valve to make more constructive securely and at the end you answer the question thanks for this video
Very interesting! So many valid arguments for positioning your nuts depending on the application. I don’t know if this applies to motorcycles, but I’ve noticed on bicycles that the wheel seems to slip inside the tire in the opposite direction you would think. Also, it happens gradually and doesn’t seem to correlate with hard accelerating or braking. This leads me to believe that it’s not straight forward slipping but we see mechanical precession at work. (It’s the same reason bicycle pedals have a regular CW thread on the right side and the left pedal has a CCW thread. The bottom bracket threads are the opposite: CCW on the right side and CW on the left. This is ”wrong” to people who think the pedals loosen from torque directly.)
Great video! This brings back memories! At 14 years old was my first motorcycle flat. Changed with a couple of big screw drivers. After a few tries, bloody knuckles, pinched fingers and JC Whitney tube patch kit and my mom's baby powder I was back on the trial. 58 years later strictly street now and do I love tubeless tires!
First of all, you should never deflate your tires low enough for it to spin on the rim without a RIM LOCK installed, or 2 (on the rear if needed). …in over 30 years of riding off road while using rim locks (correctly tightened down and 4 spokes over from the valve stem) I’ve never had a valve stem get ripped or even go slightly crooked. …even when getting a flat. Secondly, the primary reason for talcum powder inside the tire is not to save your valve stem from slipping inside the tire (since this isn’t part of the usual tire/tube function when installed and inflated properly) but rather it’s to A) reduce the chafing of the tube inside the tire when ridden at low off road pressure. … which can lead to a flat over time, and B) To reduce pinch flats cause when hitting a square edges obstacle out on the trail. Allowing the tube to slip out from in-between the tire pinched over on itself. I would suggest getting rim lock and spoke mounted balancing weights to anyone using their dual sport for both on and off road. …or don’t deflate your tires. Thanks for another great video. …I watch them all. Cheers
OUTSTANDING video! Thank you for explaining not only which way is proper but WHY that is the proper way. I often go to youtube for help and most people totally leave out the "why" on most of the questionable issues. I'm a big fan of your channel and never miss a post from you. Please keep up the good work.
I've never owned or operated a motorcycle with tubed tires, yet I found this video the most fascinating thing I've watched all week, with a brilliantly entertaining delivery. Well done!
Enjoyed the video. I came from Japanese bikes, always had one nut in and one nut out. It seemed like when the Austrian bikes started gaining in popularity, this idea of leaving the outside nut off or loose took over. Here's the thing, even if you leave the outside nut loose, the tire spinning around the rim can only move the tube as far as the little bit of clearance between the hole in the rim and the stem will allow. So, at some point, you're still pulling the tube against the valve stem until you do like stated in the video and correct it. I can't see how leaving the outer nut loose does much if anything to prevent ripping the stem out of the tube. AND if you leave the outer nut loose, the valve stem threads are not only chewing away at the hole in your rim, but also creating aluminum slivers that end up inside the assembly. AND, when the nut is loose and the stem gets pulled over sideways, it's creating a concentrated point of pressure at the tube that wouldn't exist if it was made to stay perpendicular to the tube. I make sure the inner nut is finger-snug against the domed washer, like most manufacturers ship them out. I put the outer nut on finger tight so the stem can still rotate during the first inflation if it wants. Then, once assembled, I put plenty of air in to seat the tire bead and tighten down my outer nut and rim lock at that time. I fully deflate and inflate a couple times to allow the tube to move and normalize around the stem location. After that, I set my pressure, and go ride. Periodically I will pull the outer valve stem nut loose to see if the tube is unhappy inside, but most of the time it's fine. I'm sure that as the tire rolls with weight on it, the tube will move around and re-normalize to the stem location if it had been moved by tire slip.
You're doing it correctly. The two nuts are to keep the valve stem in place, but definitely during initial inflation and riding, it can move and deflect if it wasn't done in steps like you described. There are various methods, not all involve riding in between. But it's definitely so the valve stem isn't pulled sideways, damaging the tube and the rim and of course losing air. It's also harder to fix a tube that's got irregularities that get gunked up and snagged on rim / spoke nuts if the liner got messed up. I see 2 nuts out frequently and it's not the end of the world, but definitely one nut inside the rim and one against the rim is to clamp the valve in place, so even if the tube is punctured, it's not pulling through the rim on a flat tire situation. Two nuts on top like you said would just tear up the valve hole and valve threads if you got a flat tire while riding.
What about on car tires? 2 of the 3pc wheels on my Supra TT leak air and go flat only when the outside temperature drops to zero or below. Never above freezing, though. I have noticed that those valve stems are only finger tight.
@@nickthompson9697 Thank you so much for the reply. I definitely will. Do I need to debead the tire to do it right? I have a slight stretch as they’re the front tires on 10.5” wheels. Nothing too crazy but I don’t think my jump pack’s compressor is going to do that.
Old bloke here, back in 1970s UK, we had security bolts, [rim lock bolts] when tubeless tyres came in they weren't used, this is how what seems obvious to me, is hardly known today, I was shown by my father how to do all this and balance it afterwards, using tin mans solder, I used to go to trials watching bikes with hardly any air in the tube flying round. good video. Cheers
Mate this was hilarious but also completely new information to me after riding dirt bikes for years. I can relate to the descent into madness as you try to answer a very simple but specific question, so thank you for doing us this service.
About twenty years as motorcycle mechanic and I always keep one nut on the tube. I figure it does help keep the stem attached to the rubber. I also put one nut on the outside against the cap, allowing the valve to tilt if needed.
Bro had a mental breakdown in the first half of the video 😂❤ You forgot about rim locks btw.. I only agree partially with you though. I don't like to run a nut on the inside because, as you said, it makes the washer pointless. Especially when running rim locks because the tire doesn't walk on the rim at all. If you're not using rim locks, I guess it still depends on your mentality regarding the intervals at which you exchange your inner tubes. Personally I don't see a reason to exchange them when my tire is worn out. I slap a new tire on there and leave the old tube in.* And on the outside I don't have the nut all the way up against the valve cap. I like to run it like halfway down (depending on the length of the valve stem) so that there is about 1cm space between the nut and the rim. Ideally I have a second nut and lock them in this position (lower nut having 1cm clearence to the rim). With rim locks I basically run the nut down to the rim but don't tighten it. It prevents dirt from entering and keeps everything in place. It doesn't need to move around that much because the tire and tube won't move in relation to the wheel. * [Unnecessary explanation of my mentality regarding to change my inner tubes: My mentality is to change my tube after I put 5 holes in it. That was the break even point for me in cost. I could (depending on the relation of prices of tube to patch kit) patch a tube 4 to 6 times and still spend less money than a new tube would cost. Sometimes even 8 to 10 times. I don't know how the prices are now and haven't done that calculation in quite some time, since I don't ride frequently anymore and only when the weather is good, so I run my rear tire down until the knobs are very small. This leads to me keeping a rear tire for at least 3 years lol ]
Yeah, when I heard about the tire spinning from the rim I was starting to wonder if only Yamaha used rim locks since thats all I have owned since the 90s... I think he just didnt think to add that in there.
Had to go check my '82 Suzuki PE250 (Professional Enduro) for rim locks. 2 on back tire and 1 on front tire. Back is definitely needed, not sure why front has rim lock. I'm pretty sure my '79 RM125 (motocross bike) had them as well, don't have that bike anymore to check. Both those bikes were designed for and meant to be ridden very aggressively :)
I'm not a motor enthusiast and don't know why TH-cam recommended this video to me... but I'm very glad it did! I was super interested through the whole thing and I learned something new! Thanks man, keep up the informative and entertaining videos. Cheers.
Your videos are normally outstanding, informative and entertaining, but you've outdone yourself with this one. Congratulations. This channel is what TH-cam should aspire to be.
I made the mistake of sipping my coffee at 3:15. Your dry, comedic timing is pure gold my friend. As always, your natural ability for explaining convulted topics is some of best I've seen on the platform and I genuinely mean that. You'd be a phenomenal instructor. Perhaps I missed it while wiping coffee off my shirt but I still don't fully understand why you'd stack two nuts on the outside. I'd expect fully inflated tires to adequately secure the internal 'washer' against the inside and in the event that pressure is lost unexpectedly, all constraining it seems to do is potentially turn a minor problem into a catastrophic one. What's interesting to me is how janky all these solutions seem. Surely after all these years there's better ways to accomplish a lot of this without reinventing the wheel. It feels like another example of the industry doing the same thing over and over again until someone finally has the balls to say, "Wait, why the hell we still doing this?"
Very informative. The one glaring issue however is no mention of a rimlock. No matter where that nut is placed, if you air down and give it the beans, youre gonna rip the valve stem clean off. the CRF300L comes stock with a little rubber plug in the rimlock hole. That means that you should put 1 nut on the inside and 1 nut on the outside with the outside nut tightened down to the wheel, but you're using the rimlock to keep the tube from getting destroyed instead of hoping baby powder helps. This also means the ktm and husqy group is doing it wrong because for bikes of that size and power, you're going to spin the valve stem off as soon as you get in just a little bit of soft stuff.
FYI, that KTM you showed without a nut was also using a rim lock. That physically locks the tire to the wheel. I highly suggest these if you are going to run low pressure.
Also I have had tubes with a narrow stirrup about 25mm long that falls into the valley of the rim thus holding the valve firmly at a right angle to the rim to prevent valve stem from tilting at all. Great video.
I can understand the confusion, as I NEVER used to put the nut on the inside of the rim(used secund nut as locking nut). BUT, many years later and after a lifetime in engineering, hydraulics, etc, then it's clear that the valve assembly is actually traversing a bulkhead(wheel rim), and therefore needs a nut on BOTH sides! Great post! ❤ Now subbed. 😊
i will eventually need this info for my wifes bike, but wasnt looking for it. i couldnt resist the speakers totally logical approach and vocalizing of the topic until the end of the video. well played.
I learned this the hard way. I had 2 flats within 2 months on my old Yamaha xs850. Both times the tube was torn at the stem. Installed it. I thought something was wrong with my rim, so I took it to a shop to get the tube changed. The guy at the shop explained all the reasoning to me, and I never had another issue with this for the next 3 years I had the bike until it was stolen.
I made comments well before watching video it's kinda nice to have verification of what I've been doing for the last 55+ years. I've always used the exact justification you found when explaining 'why' to people. I've always done it the way Honda came from factory. The 'internal' nut holds washer in place and prevents tube fretting on valve stem hole. Dunlop (UK) used to make instructional films in the 1960's n how to change tyres, etc and they seem to know what they are doing. Something very few people seem to be aware of, on off road motorcycles, even with bead locks, it isn't really possible to stop tyre 'creeping' on rim so the outside nut should be 'loose' or even run up against the valve cap. That way you won't get valve stem ripped out of tube plus you can see when valve stem starts 'leaning over' and tyre needs rotating back into correct position so valve is 'upright' One other thing that seems to be 'controversial', where to start when removing tyre (and where to finish when re-fitting) Dunlop say 'start at the valve, finish at the valve' Over-tightening 'stuff' is referred to as 'gorillaing it'
TH-cam just recommended your channel to me, and I absolutely loved it! Hilarious, but also amazing information! Can't wait to binge more of your content.
Also, I’ve been watching your videos for years and it’s SO COOL seeing how far you’ve come. Like how you sound in this vs an old video is a huuuuge difference. Hell yea
Sorry man, but if you're going to use your tyres with such a low pressure, you should use rim locks, because if the tyre rotates, regardless if you have the nuts installed or not, your tube will be compromised anyway. Regarding the nuts, there are various theories around them. Just use them wisely, that's what i say. The idea is that they should be tightened one against other to prevent, them to be untightened. So if you put both on the outside, they will do exactly that (assuming that washer, that also is provided and is also important, is installed, wehter is the case). But if you think about it, if you put one under the rim and other on the outside correctly tightened one against the other, they will do exactly the same!... So Honda is not in correct. Just doing the same thing, in a different way as they think the nut on the inside will add some integrity (if we can say that) to the connection of the valve stem to the tube, keeping the purpose of tightening one against the other...
I did hundreds of tubes replacements for endurance riders in the 80’s. My first boss taught me to never tighten the stem and use one nut to install so as to not lose the stem during assembly then when all done put valve stem cap on and lock the 2 nuts together just under the cap. This allows the tube stem to move cause if it doesn’t eventually the tire will move along with the tube and rip the stem from the tube during competition. Rim locks don’t keep the tire completely locked even with 2 of them when the rider likes to run low tire pressures.
Off road bikes have a thing called a rim lock that locks the tire to the rim & prevents spinning . They are on both front & rear wheels of dedicated dirt bikes. Most of the off-road community that still use tubes do not tighten the top nut down to allow a small amount of movement w/o stressing the rubber at the valve.
If you do up the nut before inflating, the inflating tube sometimes stops the tyre bead seating properly. I always leave the nut up high and push the stem into the tyre while starting to inflate (the nut stops the stem pushing all the way in). This gets all of the tube around the stem inside the tyre and it pushes the bead on. The last thing I do is do up the nut.
See? This is actually a great video. I learned something important today. No need for videos about vaporware or defunct engines configurations straight off of Wikipedia. This is the type of video that we expect from a channel called "driving 4 answers". Great work. Thank you.
Very thorough as always. You covered all the things I thought of. Even at the end, when you explained why the nut could be good or bad on the inside. Thanks for this.😊
Not a biker nor a mechanic. I had my only bicycle at age of 8, but after experimenting with it over the years I came to the same conclusions. Over-tightening or keeping things too lose is may not be optimal. In adult engineering terms: The whole tube design is a set of "elastic" compromises. Pun intended.
I thoroughly enjoyed the delightful mixture of masterful sarcastic wit, with well-reasoned and -explained conclusions in this episode. Thank you, @driving 4 answers
I can tell you from 15 years of riding motocross. Only use the washer inside the wheel and one nut against the plastic cap this applies to street or dirt.
I’ve always wondered about this too! Seeing the KX manual picture with the nut secured against the valve cap really threw me off, especially after learning in mechanic school to tighten it around the rim. 👍
Hi, That's why Drag Racers use screws to attach the tire to the rim (with tube type) so the valve stem doesn't get ripped off! On tubeless slicks, so it does not deflate! Man you cover all of the gear head topics! Good video!👍👍👍
As a motorcycle mechanic in the 80’s and 90’s, I placed one nut outside the rim and jammed it against the valve stem cap on off-road bikes. They run low pressure, typically 8# to 15#, so heavy braking can cause the tire to slip on the rim. I left the other nut inside the rim. IIRC, on street bikes, which typically run about 32 PSI, I put both nuts outside and jammed slightly together.
As a 70 year old Trials rider I would suggest that if you are going to run low pressures in you tubed off road tires then you should be using rim locks. !
the expert for dirt is DirtBikeTV with Jay Clark, longtime Dunlop employee. Nut under cap is the safest way, but Honda and ProBolt make rubber grommets that hold the valve stem in place when deflated and also seal the hole so dirt/water does not get in and corrode the base of the stem
Have you heard of rim locks? they have been around for quite a while. rim locks go in between the wheel and the tire. they are metal covered with rubber with a bolt that goes through the wheel. much like a valve stem, and depending on how much torque the bike has? you can install one, two, three, or more of them. you have to drill additional holes in your wheels to install them. once the tire is on the wheel you tighten the bolt down as tight as possible. and it locks the bead of the tire to the to bead surface on the wheel. they make It a little more difficult to put the tire on the wheel, but it's not that bad. I have had motorcycles with them on them and they work really good. however they are not recommended for street bikes. because they can throw the balance off, and because street bikes run at much higher speeds. that can cause an issue with vibration. they can be installed on both wheels. although torque isn't an issue on the front wheel but braking is. my suggestion is to go to your favorite motorcycle dealership. and ask for rim locks? and should know what you're talking about. and they will set you up with them.
What do you do with your nuts?
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I absolutely love this video, so entertaining and funny
I try very hard to not torque them: the ideal spec is 0.00 Nm
Great vid and I'm glad you covered the off-road reason. If your running low pressure you should also get a 'rimlock' to oppose the valve to stop the tube slipping. I don't know why it's not installed my default like it used to be on old dual sports but there's a hole in your rim with a rubber stopper to install one.
I just have 1 nut and leave a good thread gap above the rim so I can see if the tubes slipping. If the nut moves it's not a big deal, you don't need a locking nut.
Well, on a bicycle it is just one nut, ring actually, on the outside, tightened down to the rim.
I think correct way is two nuts on the outside thigh to the rim to keep the valve stem firm for inflating the tire, and the second nut is to prevent loosening from vibration. If you thigten two nuts like that together, they prevent each other from moving
maybe forget about the top nut completely and use a metal cap.
the bottom nut is basically a dummy safety.
There is no joy greater than finding a forum that looks like it hasnt been updated since 2008 with threads that had activity until a few hours ago
I always felt like I am intruding on a conversation I just brought myself into when I find these little communities
And the threat of reddit to these forums saddens me.
@@wundo9372 Reddit has already killed what there was to kill those forums that remained will remain forever
The more obscure they are the better.
@@Splarkszter Reddit exists. Anything specific like cars, tech or clubs will always have their own website and forums where it will be easy to find the wizards and novices on a given subject or object. As someone that uses car forums to fix my car and a reddit user of more than 15 years, I can attest to this. Reddit used to be fantastic in it's early days. Now the undesirables have discovered it and it has become trash.
You're either the smartest comedian, or the funniest engineer on the internet. Either way, your videos are pure gold and I love them. 😂
Wait till you see superfastmatt, its only a good enough practical application of what d4a explains, in theory
Hold-up till you see Zach Star Himself, he actually was willing And able to go full on comedy.
"Nut positioning, and how it impacts the longevity of your rubber products."
Excellent choice of words.
💀
How about 'Deez Nuts'. He's full of zingers.
It is important to place your nuts properly to keep the rubber product safe. Otherwise, rubber product can pop in a very not safe moment, then you’ll have to sell the motorcycle and buy a family oriented vehicle to drive your wife and a newborn around.
@@craftyukraine I think that's a different rubber product, but you're right the motorcycle would be gone for about 15 years. Don't ask me how I know.
I've found over many years of riding; The correct nut positioning is one nut deep against the inside of the rim, and the other nut pressed snuggly against the outside of the rim. This installation method has helped to keep the wife and I wheels down more often than not. Remember: "You're never lost on a motorcycle".
Dude the level of quality of information and at the same time engaging funny bits is out of this world. This is how presentations should look.
Voltaire-levels of sarcastic wit in this video. Efficiently informative. Bravo!
yeah he's good, and not even American. When people from OTHER countries start having better vocabulary, wit, command of english then most Americans, that's sad AF.
@@wesleydeer889 Back in the day, those other people were called the English.
@@wesleydeer889 than*
@@wargamingrefugee9065 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@wargamingrefugee9065 they still are but now, seeing how american english devolved to bottom tier, you'll have to go way lower than Nigeria or Kenya to find english-speaking people with a worse command of the language. 🤤
I learned this one from a guy who existed before tires had air in them. There's a dent where the stem goes through. You put the tire half on, stick the tube in and guide the stem through the hole then spin a nut on loose. You then inflate the tube limply and put the tire on the rest of the way. You then inflate the tire to ambient and bounce the tire on rim around gently. You then inflate the tire to 2-5psi to get a seating that aligns with the stem. You then back the single nut off a little and give the stem a couple pokes and a couple flicks then run the nut back on until you can feel the sharp tap of a little hammer on the rim the same on the stem as on the rim. You then run the second nut on while keeping the first one in place and torque them to the spec on the box against each other without gaining any tightness against the rim. You then do a couple miles on cobble/regular dirt road, deflate the tube, break the lock nut, reinflate to pressure and give the against-rim nut a little more torque (fingertip at one inch on the wrench) and then lock the second nut against it without putting on more torque. You then mark the nuts with an awl as well as leaving a line on the rim IN TWO PLACES so if the wuckfitt with the bike moves them you know and can kick him in the butt until he leaves.
If the stem itself turns at any point in this you have to drain the tube, pull the nuts, take the tire halfway off and pull the stem out the side and inspect it for failures or damage and repeat the process.
*If the rim contains an extra deep well nipple pointing inward designed for putting the first nut inside the rim while still having flush rim contact with the stem skirt then you put that inner nut in there and still ensure the stem doesn't turn and you add a third damned nut you buy yourself on the inner inside* because those rims exist and its also how you deal with converting a deep tubeless nipple to tubed.
I miss anything? The guy like putting chewing gum around the stem at its skirt before he tightened in because some would come through and it would fluid seal the contact between the nut and the rim and you've always got gum to get rid of.
Can I use an old nut off an old tube for the third nut? Or do I need to purchase new? If new, where does one purchase third nuts?
That is one of the most ridiculous procedures I have ever heard of.
@@zyoungson215 i think the guy who wrote this has schizophrenia or something
@@bmxscape Love to hear your reasoning for this diagnosis
Them: have you watched that new big-budget fiction thing?
Me: no, but I did watch a video about valve stems
Them: oh, like a documentary on the development of the pneumatic tire and the engineering behind one-way valves?
Me: no, specifically on where to put the included nuts on tubes for motorcycle tires depending on application
Them: do you have a motorcycle?
Me: no.
Exactly the same scenario applies to me also!
And me. 😅
😂😂😂
Ha ! Freakin’ rad
FOLKS!!! Get yourself a motorcycle...then you 2 can play with your nuts!!
As a bicyclist I ran into the same issue. Since it is under less stress comparatively I went with NO nut and have experianced the shifting of the valve stem as you illustrated. I found it annoying but easily corrected.
"People hate to think." Truest thing ever said in a TH-cam video.
I love to think, it helps me keep the unwanted voices at bay. Or…
I love to think except when I’m trying to fall asleep 💤.
@@darylSKYTZOwillis
I like to think,too. Except when I don't want to because sometimes it's hard.
When that happens ,I just go sit at a chair and turn my brain off and drool for a couple hours.
They also hate to read.
@@stevencooper2464 TL;DR 🐷
Figured the washer has a rounded profile to match the curve of the rim for a reason, so always placed it against the rim with double nut on the outside
Yea its the only thing that makes sense... never had ANY problems with that, offroad or not.
My favoured positioning too, though I wouldn’t bother with the second nut. Only thing to watch is that the washer doesn’t fall off when changing the tyre and fall unnoticed into the tyre and stays there when refitting. That would probably cause a puncture at some later point.
Higher number of forum post = mental and/or social issues . THAT WAS GOLD! 🤣
I feel personally attacked 😂
Hey. He spent an entire lunch break researching on youtube. Which is what I'm doing now.
@@Craftlngo #metoo
Cold ... but maybe not really untrue ... sometimes ;-)
And... you who want find/google answer for problem... do not want these posts ? Call Michelin support line ?
Hey wait a minute. 🤔
Agreed. Great explanatory video. I was told many years ago to use the nut/nuts directly beneath the valve cap, to prevent inner tube damage if the tyre happens to slip, the wonky valve stem gives an indication if this has happened.
I dont really care about motorcycles and especially their tires but this video was extremely entertaining nonetheless. This is why i consider this channel one of my favorites
I am no gearhead or motorhead. I prefer stick shifts, I love the sounds of revving engines, I change my oil and spark plugs ... and that's about it. When I saw the title of this, my poor brain was confused. He's had so many alternative engine videos recently, almost all replacing poppet valves with something else, and I wondered, why are there nuts on valve stems?
When I started watching and saw it was tire valve stems, I felt like the town idiot, but I also knew the answer, since I've ridden bicycles on streets and on dirt a lot. A great video, the reason I keep watching.
The way he presents any video is wonderful and enjoying 😂😊
If you don't already I think you'd love the channel "This Old Tony". The subject of every video will be seemingly uninteresting, but the information will be presented in such a delightful way you can't help but watch more.
@@Polden_ You're right, that is interesting. Damn you!
same here
Excellent video: content, clarity, and delivery all top-notch.
As the owner of a high power dual sport (690 enduro)... rimlocks are life, but I still hadn't put much thought into the valve stem nut location. Both tires had one nut inside, 1 nut outside done finger tight. The rear wheel has dual rimlocks, the front has none. Never torn a tube, but I run heavy duty tubes and only go low pressure (~12psi) for more technical lower speed terrain. 18 to 22psi depending on how much highway is going to be done.
Great video. Very funny and informative.
0:16 deeznutz
2:59 again... My umor is broken
got 'em
Don't be dirrty...😂
Beat me to it!
If this was a race, i'd be 4th 😭🤣
The humor on this vídeo was perfect. Congratz.. and Thank you for this explanation. As motorcycle rider, I will pay more attention to this detail!
Thank God someone addressed this. I buy what you are saying and respect the difference between street and dirt applications.
Rim locks.
Considering the joint design Michelin makes sense to me. Running the under the rim and over the rim would make sense if I wanted space between the place where the rubber meets the stem. Then I would put a flat or better a nut torqueing feature on the rim. The rim is curved. However I expect the stem can rest against the hole and if no space was wanted a shoulder on the stem would be better than a nut. The function I expect is to keep the stem outside of the rim when deflated. This is well accomplished with jammed nuts on the outside without contacting the curved rim surfaces. Could have done it with a clip but you get the threaded features free.
Wouldn't have thought of the slip situation that sounds touchy and likely to still fail.
Thanks for the episode per usual.
Wait until he discovers rim locks...
🤣
when he does, it all becomes irrelevant.
Came here for that comment! Thought rim locks were standard on off road bikes?
@@GeneralPoisonMust be an American thing. I was wondering about that this entire time!
@TobiasCat-dl2juYI’ve never seen a tubeless tire on a dirt-bike.
Great video. I went tubeless on my DR650. I sealed all spoke nipples on the rear tire and installed a rim clinching Schrader valve. The front I installed a Tu Blis system. Fast forward, I have completed the Northern California BDR the Arizona BDR and the LA B 2 V with no tire failures. Tubes are arcane. One just needs to be creative and think outside the box.
I have had two flats, in two weeks on my dual sport, after 3 years of zero tire issues. Fantastic timing.
An old bush plane trick when running low air pressure is to spray the tire's bead with fan belt dressing before assembly. the stickiness will help keep the tire from spinning on the rim while pounding you airplane down somewhere in the bush and tearing off a valve stem.
A Public Service Announcement for Motorcycle Mechanics worldwide,
You are the Man!
All customers need to watch this.
I normally don't enjoy this type of video, but you did a good job of the format. First, entertaining, then subtly informative, then straight into the investigation and details, with jokes/gags sprinkled here and there. Overall a great video.
I was asking myself this question last night as I replaced a tyre on my dualsport. I concluded by putting the nut on the inside, tightened on the washer, but I added a layer of old inner tube in between like a small rubber washer to prevent the washer chaffing on the airtight rubber. Then all topped off with a loose nut on the outside and the dust cap to finish.
.... I'm thinking of writing a PhD thesis based on this work. 😂
They make valve stem grommets/seals that are contoured to the shape of the rim. I use them on all my dirt bikes. 'BOLT' is one supplier.
@@andrewdynes5300 this sounds awesome, thanks
Great vid! Particularly since I'm swapping tires today on my 990. Ironically my 990 is the only bike were I've gotten that mystery rusty nut/washer as she spends as much time off road as on. Thanks for clearing up that mystery and a good chuckle.
Answer is to use them as locknuts just above the rim to allow some movement of tire slippage, and holds stem somewhat during filling.
yeah exactly my thought. Also matches the michelin picture (the one with a wheel in it anyway)
@@asharak84 thanks, didn't notice that.
There should be 3 nuts for a motorcycle inner tube stem, then it would be obvious one helps strengthen the base of tube inside wheel and two for locknuts above rim to hold it from sliding inside and for holding it firm to push down filling the valve.
This video was great. I recently install a new heavy duty tube on my crf450rx. Both nuts outside of rim. I like the concave washer against the rim. And I check my pressure before every ride
Not trusting customers is what made Hondas so reliable from the 70's to this day. :D
Not in my country though 🤣🤣
Never trust tailors, hairdressers, or costumers.
Customers, however, are always right. So I hear.
they trust my money 🤣🤣🤣
Cap, easiest example is back then valve checks where listed as simple maintenance items and nowadays it always says take it to the dealer on the maintenance schedule for that check
by the statistics yamaha are the most reliable bikes on the planet and have been so for years
I just went through this “nuts” dilemma. Your video is awesome. You certainly captured the frustration of trying to find answers. Great explanation with your conclusions. Thanks!
7:37 that is why you use rim locks. And as far as I am concerned, there needs to be pressure applied to the domed washer at the valve, either with a nut on either side of the rim.
Thanks you for shining light on this obscure topic. If you ride with reduced tire pressures, then a rim lock will prevent the tire for slipping on the rim. In extreme cases, you can put two rim locks on a single rim.
For many years, every time I change the wheel tube, I have the same question in my mind: What is the correct configuration of these nuts, I was prefer to put the first nut on the valve to make more constructive securely and at the end you answer the question thanks for this video
Very interesting! So many valid arguments for positioning your nuts depending on the application.
I don’t know if this applies to motorcycles, but I’ve noticed on bicycles that the wheel seems to slip inside the tire in the opposite direction you would think. Also, it happens gradually and doesn’t seem to correlate with hard accelerating or braking.
This leads me to believe that it’s not straight forward slipping but we see mechanical precession at work.
(It’s the same reason bicycle pedals have a regular CW thread on the right side and the left pedal has a CCW thread. The bottom bracket threads are the opposite: CCW on the right side and CW on the left. This is ”wrong” to people who think the pedals loosen from torque directly.)
I tighten the top nut to the wheel, so the washer inside can seal. But i also use a rimlock, so the valve does not get ripped off.
Great video! This brings back memories! At 14 years old was my first motorcycle flat. Changed with a couple of big screw drivers. After a few tries, bloody knuckles, pinched fingers and JC Whitney tube patch kit and my mom's baby powder I was back on the trial. 58 years later strictly street now and do I love tubeless tires!
I already almost died laughing and it's not even 1/3rd of the actual video. Good job!
First of all, you should never deflate your tires low enough for it to spin on the rim without a RIM LOCK installed, or 2 (on the rear if needed). …in over 30 years of riding off road while using rim locks (correctly tightened down and 4 spokes over from the valve stem) I’ve never had a valve stem get ripped or even go slightly crooked. …even when getting a flat. Secondly, the primary reason for talcum powder inside the tire is not to save your valve stem from slipping inside the tire (since this isn’t part of the usual tire/tube function when installed and inflated properly) but rather it’s to A) reduce the chafing of the tube inside the tire when ridden at low off road pressure. … which can lead to a flat over time, and B) To reduce pinch flats cause when hitting a square edges obstacle out on the trail. Allowing the tube to slip out from in-between the tire pinched over on itself. I would suggest getting rim lock and spoke mounted balancing weights to anyone using their dual sport for both on and off road. …or don’t deflate your tires. Thanks for another great video. …I watch them all. Cheers
Was thinking Rim lock the whole time 😮
OUTSTANDING video! Thank you for explaining not only which way is proper but WHY that is the proper way. I often go to youtube for help and most people totally leave out the "why" on most of the questionable issues. I'm a big fan of your channel and never miss a post from you. Please keep up the good work.
I've never owned or operated a motorcycle with tubed tires, yet I found this video the most fascinating thing I've watched all week, with a brilliantly entertaining delivery. Well done!
he was going nuts about it 🤣
Enjoyed the video. I came from Japanese bikes, always had one nut in and one nut out. It seemed like when the Austrian bikes started gaining in popularity, this idea of leaving the outside nut off or loose took over.
Here's the thing, even if you leave the outside nut loose, the tire spinning around the rim can only move the tube as far as the little bit of clearance between the hole in the rim and the stem will allow. So, at some point, you're still pulling the tube against the valve stem until you do like stated in the video and correct it. I can't see how leaving the outer nut loose does much if anything to prevent ripping the stem out of the tube. AND if you leave the outer nut loose, the valve stem threads are not only chewing away at the hole in your rim, but also creating aluminum slivers that end up inside the assembly. AND, when the nut is loose and the stem gets pulled over sideways, it's creating a concentrated point of pressure at the tube that wouldn't exist if it was made to stay perpendicular to the tube.
I make sure the inner nut is finger-snug against the domed washer, like most manufacturers ship them out. I put the outer nut on finger tight so the stem can still rotate during the first inflation if it wants. Then, once assembled, I put plenty of air in to seat the tire bead and tighten down my outer nut and rim lock at that time. I fully deflate and inflate a couple times to allow the tube to move and normalize around the stem location. After that, I set my pressure, and go ride. Periodically I will pull the outer valve stem nut loose to see if the tube is unhappy inside, but most of the time it's fine. I'm sure that as the tire rolls with weight on it, the tube will move around and re-normalize to the stem location if it had been moved by tire slip.
You're doing it correctly. The two nuts are to keep the valve stem in place, but definitely during initial inflation and riding, it can move and deflect if it wasn't done in steps like you described.
There are various methods, not all involve riding in between. But it's definitely so the valve stem isn't pulled sideways, damaging the tube and the rim and of course losing air.
It's also harder to fix a tube that's got irregularities that get gunked up and snagged on rim / spoke nuts if the liner got messed up.
I see 2 nuts out frequently and it's not the end of the world, but definitely one nut inside the rim and one against the rim is to clamp the valve in place, so even if the tube is punctured, it's not pulling through the rim on a flat tire situation. Two nuts on top like you said would just tear up the valve hole and valve threads if you got a flat tire while riding.
the second nut prevents the first from unscrewing itself. The dome of the valve is to seal itself against the rim.
What about on car tires? 2 of the 3pc wheels on my Supra TT leak air and go flat only when the outside temperature drops to zero or below. Never above freezing, though. I have noticed that those valve stems are only finger tight.
😮
@@negativeindustrialthermal shrinkage. Apply black bead sealer at the valve stem hole after thoroughly removing all corrosion and tighten firmly.
@@nickthompson9697
Thank you so much for the reply. I definitely will. Do I need to debead the tire to do it right? I have a slight stretch as they’re the front tires on 10.5” wheels. Nothing too crazy but I don’t think my jump pack’s compressor is going to do that.
There is no seal.
Every spoke nipple leaks
Old bloke here, back in 1970s UK, we had security bolts, [rim lock bolts] when tubeless tyres came in they weren't used,
this is how what seems obvious to me, is hardly known today,
I was shown by my father how to do all this and balance it afterwards, using tin mans solder,
I used to go to trials watching bikes with hardly any air in the tube flying round. good video. Cheers
This question has led to as many bloody noses as any oil discussions! Great stuff, 🙏🏻
Mate this was hilarious but also completely new information to me after riding dirt bikes for years. I can relate to the descent into madness as you try to answer a very simple but specific question, so thank you for doing us this service.
You can check out the E.T.R.T.O norm if you are curious about rims, valves, and tyres. It exactly explains the reasoning of different design choices.
About twenty years as motorcycle mechanic and I always keep one nut on the tube. I figure it does help keep the stem attached to the rubber. I also put one nut on the outside against the cap, allowing the valve to tilt if needed.
Bro had a mental breakdown in the first half of the video 😂❤
You forgot about rim locks btw..
I only agree partially with you though. I don't like to run a nut on the inside because, as you said, it makes the washer pointless. Especially when running rim locks because the tire doesn't walk on the rim at all.
If you're not using rim locks, I guess it still depends on your mentality regarding the intervals at which you exchange your inner tubes.
Personally I don't see a reason to exchange them when my tire is worn out. I slap a new tire on there and leave the old tube in.*
And on the outside I don't have the nut all the way up against the valve cap. I like to run it like halfway down (depending on the length of the valve stem) so that there is about 1cm space between the nut and the rim. Ideally I have a second nut and lock them in this position (lower nut having 1cm clearence to the rim).
With rim locks I basically run the nut down to the rim but don't tighten it. It prevents dirt from entering and keeps everything in place. It doesn't need to move around that much because the tire and tube won't move in relation to the wheel.
* [Unnecessary explanation of my mentality regarding to change my inner tubes:
My mentality is to change my tube after I put 5 holes in it. That was the break even point for me in cost. I could (depending on the relation of prices of tube to patch kit) patch a tube 4 to 6 times and still spend less money than a new tube would cost. Sometimes even 8 to 10 times.
I don't know how the prices are now and haven't done that calculation in quite some time, since I don't ride frequently anymore and only when the weather is good, so I run my rear tire down until the knobs are very small. This leads to me keeping a rear tire for at least 3 years lol ]
What was that thing he said about prolific forum posters and mental/social issues?
@@davemccage7918 So you're trying to say youtubers today are what chronic forum posters were 10 years ago lol
@@Harry_Gersack More or less really… lol
Yeah, when I heard about the tire spinning from the rim I was starting to wonder if only Yamaha used rim locks since thats all I have owned since the 90s... I think he just didnt think to add that in there.
Had to go check my '82 Suzuki PE250 (Professional Enduro) for rim locks. 2 on back tire and 1 on front tire. Back is definitely needed, not sure why front has rim lock.
I'm pretty sure my '79 RM125 (motocross bike) had them as well, don't have that bike anymore to check.
Both those bikes were designed for and meant to be ridden very aggressively :)
I'm not a motor enthusiast and don't know why TH-cam recommended this video to me... but I'm very glad it did! I was super interested through the whole thing and I learned something new! Thanks man, keep up the informative and entertaining videos. Cheers.
Your videos are normally outstanding, informative and entertaining, but you've outdone yourself with this one.
Congratulations. This channel is what TH-cam should aspire to be.
I made the mistake of sipping my coffee at 3:15. Your dry, comedic timing is pure gold my friend. As always, your natural ability for explaining convulted topics is some of best I've seen on the platform and I genuinely mean that. You'd be a phenomenal instructor.
Perhaps I missed it while wiping coffee off my shirt but I still don't fully understand why you'd stack two nuts on the outside. I'd expect fully inflated tires to adequately secure the internal 'washer' against the inside and in the event that pressure is lost unexpectedly, all constraining it seems to do is potentially turn a minor problem into a catastrophic one.
What's interesting to me is how janky all these solutions seem. Surely after all these years there's better ways to accomplish a lot of this without reinventing the wheel. It feels like another example of the industry doing the same thing over and over again until someone finally has the balls to say, "Wait, why the hell we still doing this?"
The amount of satire in this is amazing lol.... enjoyed it very much!
Very informative. The one glaring issue however is no mention of a rimlock.
No matter where that nut is placed, if you air down and give it the beans, youre gonna rip the valve stem clean off. the CRF300L comes stock with a little rubber plug in the rimlock hole.
That means that you should put 1 nut on the inside and 1 nut on the outside with the outside nut tightened down to the wheel, but you're using the rimlock to keep the tube from getting destroyed instead of hoping baby powder helps. This also means the ktm and husqy group is doing it wrong because for bikes of that size and power, you're going to spin the valve stem off as soon as you get in just a little bit of soft stuff.
FYI, that KTM you showed without a nut was also using a rim lock. That physically locks the tire to the wheel. I highly suggest these if you are going to run low pressure.
D4A discovers internet culture and has a breakdown :D
Also I have had tubes with a narrow stirrup about 25mm long that falls into the valley of the rim thus holding the valve firmly at a right angle to the rim to prevent valve stem from tilting at all. Great video.
I can understand the confusion, as I NEVER used to put the nut on the inside of the rim(used secund nut as locking nut).
BUT, many years later and after a lifetime in engineering, hydraulics, etc, then it's clear that the valve assembly is actually traversing a bulkhead(wheel rim), and therefore needs a nut on BOTH sides!
Great post! ❤
Now subbed. 😊
i will eventually need this info for my wifes bike, but wasnt looking for it. i couldnt resist the speakers totally logical approach and vocalizing of the topic until the end of the video.
well played.
This video is an absolute gem
I learned this the hard way. I had 2 flats within 2 months on my old Yamaha xs850. Both times the tube was torn at the stem. Installed it. I thought something was wrong with my rim, so I took it to a shop to get the tube changed. The guy at the shop explained all the reasoning to me, and I never had another issue with this for the next 3 years I had the bike until it was stolen.
6:04, you got me really hard 😂
I made comments well before watching video
it's kinda nice to have verification of what I've been doing for the last 55+ years.
I've always used the exact justification you found when explaining 'why' to people.
I've always done it the way Honda came from factory.
The 'internal' nut holds washer in place and prevents tube fretting on valve stem hole.
Dunlop (UK) used to make instructional films in the 1960's n how to change tyres, etc and they seem to know what they are doing.
Something very few people seem to be aware of, on off road motorcycles, even with bead locks, it isn't really possible to stop tyre 'creeping' on rim so the outside nut should be 'loose' or even run up against the valve cap.
That way you won't get valve stem ripped out of tube plus you can see when valve stem starts 'leaning over' and tyre needs rotating back into correct position so valve is 'upright'
One other thing that seems to be 'controversial', where to start when removing tyre (and where to finish when re-fitting)
Dunlop say 'start at the valve, finish at the valve'
Over-tightening 'stuff' is referred to as 'gorillaing it'
I'm not into motorcycles or inter tubes but I still enjoyed the video. hehe great work D4A
TH-cam just recommended your channel to me, and I absolutely loved it! Hilarious, but also amazing information! Can't wait to binge more of your content.
Well done.
Well researched and FULLY explained.
Also, I’ve been watching your videos for years and it’s SO COOL seeing how far you’ve come. Like how you sound in this vs an old video is a huuuuge difference. Hell yea
Sorry man, but if you're going to use your tyres with such a low pressure, you should use rim locks, because if the tyre rotates, regardless if you have the nuts installed or not, your tube will be compromised anyway. Regarding the nuts, there are various theories around them. Just use them wisely, that's what i say. The idea is that they should be tightened one against other to prevent, them to be untightened. So if you put both on the outside, they will do exactly that (assuming that washer, that also is provided and is also important, is installed, wehter is the case). But if you think about it, if you put one under the rim and other on the outside correctly tightened one against the other, they will do exactly the same!... So Honda is not in correct. Just doing the same thing, in a different way as they think the nut on the inside will add some integrity (if we can say that) to the connection of the valve stem to the tube, keeping the purpose of tightening one against the other...
I did hundreds of tubes replacements for endurance riders in the 80’s. My first boss taught me to never tighten the stem and use one nut to install so as to not lose the stem during assembly then when all done put valve stem cap on and lock the 2 nuts together just under the cap. This allows the tube stem to move cause if it doesn’t eventually the tire will move along with the tube and rip the stem from the tube during competition. Rim locks don’t keep the tire completely locked even with 2 of them when the rider likes to run low tire pressures.
"How many jokes can you fit in one video?"
D4A: "Yes"
OMG I so love this!!! As a dirt rider of more than 50 years I really do understand your consternation! 😄👍
Off road bikes have a thing called a rim lock that locks the tire to the rim & prevents spinning . They are on both front & rear wheels of dedicated dirt bikes. Most of the off-road community that still use tubes do not tighten the top nut down to allow a small amount of movement w/o stressing the rubber at the valve.
If you do up the nut before inflating, the inflating tube sometimes stops the tyre bead seating properly. I always leave the nut up high and push the stem into the tyre while starting to inflate (the nut stops the stem pushing all the way in). This gets all of the tube around the stem inside the tyre and it pushes the bead on. The last thing I do is do up the nut.
See? This is actually a great video. I learned something important today.
No need for videos about vaporware or defunct engines configurations straight off of Wikipedia.
This is the type of video that we expect from a channel called "driving 4 answers".
Great work. Thank you.
Very thorough as always. You covered all the things I thought of. Even at the end, when you explained why the nut could be good or bad on the inside. Thanks for this.😊
Not a biker nor a mechanic. I had my only bicycle at age of 8, but after experimenting with it over the years I came to the same conclusions. Over-tightening or keeping things too lose is may not be optimal. In adult engineering terms: The whole tube design is a set of "elastic" compromises. Pun intended.
Then we go way wacko and look at tubeless, where the technique of a nut on either side will simply compromise the system from the outset.
I thoroughly enjoyed the delightful mixture of masterful sarcastic wit, with well-reasoned and -explained conclusions in this episode.
Thank you, @driving 4 answers
5:26 you are so funny and wholesome lol 💚💚💚
I can tell you from 15 years of riding motocross. Only use the washer inside the wheel and one nut against the plastic cap this applies to street or dirt.
All of this talk and not a mention of a rim lock? What off-road tube wheels NOT come with them these days?
I’ve always wondered about this too! Seeing the KX manual picture with the nut secured against the valve cap really threw me off, especially after learning in mechanic school to tighten it around the rim. 👍
Would be nicer if a clear conclusion is added at the end.
Sure would
it's clear. it depends
I wish all of my teachers my whole life were like you. Your presentation and speaking skills are top notch
Where do socks go, when they disappear in the washing machine portal of doom
You said it yourself, they’re sacrificed to Doom Guy. Gotta keep dry feet to keep active, after all.
Dryer lint trap......
Hi, That's why Drag Racers use screws to attach the tire to the rim (with tube type) so the valve stem doesn't get ripped off! On tubeless slicks, so it does not deflate! Man you cover all of the gear head topics! Good video!👍👍👍
“Here on the valve stem, we have deez nuts” got me dying
As a motorcycle mechanic in the 80’s and 90’s, I placed one nut outside the rim and jammed it against the valve stem cap on off-road bikes.
They run low pressure, typically 8# to 15#, so heavy braking can cause the tire to slip on the rim.
I left the other nut inside the rim.
IIRC, on street bikes, which typically run about 32 PSI, I put both nuts outside and jammed slightly together.
Now I am really confused. My 1981 Yamaha TT-500 had tire kleets on the rim to prevent the tire and rim from slipping. 🤔🤔🤔🤷♂️🤦♂️🤣😂
Thanks for the explanation. In off-road driving rim locks are used to prevent the tire from rotating relative to the rim
Just put 3 nuts and do both at the same time
I only have two 🤪
@ralanham76 go hang out at a superfund site for a while.
Thats what i do, using one from the old tube and the 2 new ones.
As a 70 year old Trials rider I would suggest that if you are going to run low pressures in you tubed off road tires then you should be using rim locks. !
Hey! As a physically disabled forum user with too much time, i demand representation!!
Trust me, you were represented!
Thanks. You've solved one of the greatest enigmas i motor cycling world. It all make sense and what I have suspected since 1973.
What about rim locks?
I've been riding for 35+ years both on and off-road and finally I know the answer. Thanks !
bro when suspension video 🥺
After this. I think...
Nice explanation. I've passed this video on to my son and grandsons. Really handy tips.
👏👏
the expert for dirt is DirtBikeTV with Jay Clark, longtime Dunlop employee. Nut under cap is the safest way, but Honda and ProBolt make rubber grommets that hold the valve stem in place when deflated and also seal the hole so dirt/water does not get in and corrode the base of the stem
Have you heard of rim locks? they have been around for quite a while. rim locks go in between the wheel and the tire. they are metal covered with rubber with a bolt that goes through the wheel. much like a valve stem, and depending on how much torque the bike has? you can install one, two, three, or more of them. you have to drill additional holes in your wheels to install them. once the tire is on the wheel you tighten the bolt down as tight as possible. and it locks the bead of the tire to the to bead surface on the wheel. they make It a little more difficult to put the tire on the wheel, but it's not that bad. I have had motorcycles with them on them and they work really good. however they are not recommended for street bikes. because they can throw the balance off, and because street bikes run at much higher speeds. that can cause an issue with vibration. they can be installed on both wheels. although torque isn't an issue on the front wheel but braking is. my suggestion is to go to your favorite motorcycle dealership. and ask for rim locks? and should know what you're talking about. and they will set you up with them.