many people dont know that jb weld normal formula after seting 72 hours to cure is 2× as strong as 24hrs seting. at 70 degrees air temp. jb-weld makes its strongest formula called jb-marine weld 2parts also but at 48hrs set time its much stronger than jb-weld original. if you test jb-weld marine formula and let it set for a full 5 days untouched at 70 degrees air temp its 3× stronger than original jb-weld. the marine formula can withstand constant temps well into the mid 300 degree range. nice video good day.
I think if you were to add a bunch of wire chunks into the jb weld matrix then drill it and tap it the wire would be held by the jb weld and provide more strength than a powder base.
We used J-B Weld to glue in a stripped spark plug. It would hold for about six months of daily driving. We learned to keep the J-B in the car for a fast roadside repair. Drove the car like that for many years until sold... with the repair kit...
It has it's place for sure and when used properly can be the most practical option. Problem comes when people have no idea how to fix something and decide this will do it and put it on a greasy, mud covered gas tank then complain it didn't work.
@@sixtyfiveford The older JB would turn to plastic when the ethanol gas came out but I think they've redone their formula to make it compatible now. Hope they have anyway. Thanks, Pal!
Had a 82' Honda 500XL rebuilt motor job at a local bike shop where I live -- months later oil was leaking outta the head, I slowly took it apart only to find out the S.O.B used a cheap heli-coil cuz he stripped it out himself . I took it someplace else and the fix was high end threaded SS inserts, worked amazingly. Having said that, the previous bike shop is no long in business ( l rarely get lucky taking shortcuts)
Looking at a similar issue with a moto 4 225 i picked up but a repair hasn't been attempted. i've tried to replace the bolt and pray i get lucky but no luck with that haha. I'm really not trying to do major work on this as it already has other issues i'm not addressing so do you think the method shown would help with my issue or just be a waste of time? I really just want the oil leak to stop/slow down. Gonna work on unsticking clutch pads tomorrow though :)
@@RYANINBODEN1547-- the SS threaded inserts usually applied with red locktite (l think) -- it's a much stronger threaded fix than the aluminum heli-coil -- l would go that route as you'll more than likely never have an oil leaking problem again -- With the SS insert you can really crank down the head ensuring a tight seal
I used JBWeld to fix stripped threads on a riding lawn mower motor mounting bolt several years ago and it’s still holding. It’s location would have required total removal of the motor. I’ve not needed to remove the bolt so I can’t comment on the quality of the threads, but the “fix” is is still holding so I’m not going to poke at it.
I find using aluminum brazing rod works best. I use Blue Demon Triple Play rods and a Mapp gas torch. Heat the base metal, flux the hole and fill it up with the rod. Center punch, drill and tap. Just like new. The trouble with epoxy is going to be durability. Thermal cycling will cause the jb weld threads to debond
Video production is getting great Moe. I remember when I was watching videos on a little 12 inch by 24 inch section of cleared off work bench. Now look how clean and organized and professional the garage is! Great editing and lots of work showing on the end product!
Great video . . . I used a kit I believe from Permatex few years back to restore threads on a head bolt stud on my Model A . . . . It worked well enough to torque the head to spec. Took me a few trys, each time giving it more cure time. Success was after 2 days curing! . . . . Shop looks good . . . . Ginger has endless energy . . . . . . Rog
It'll get you out of pickle, sometimes. All this epoxy stuff is very finicky. Thanks, I've been cleaning up the shop lately and Ginger would never stop if I let her.
I used water weld (which is made by JB weld) to make threads. My bathtub has two handles that you turn for the hot and cold water. I had damaged the threads on the hot water when I was working on it. I was going to have to call a plumber to come in with a torch and replace everything. But instead, I took the handle out of the wall for the hot water and wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. And then, I wrapped some water weld around the Teflon tape and stuck the whole thing back in the hole in the wall. The waterweld stuck to the threads that were in the wall, and I could spin the hot water handle free of the water weld because it was wrapped in Teflon tape. Just like you did with the wax and the bolt. This has been holding for years. I did replace the water weld once several years ago. And it had held for several years before that.
I've used your copper wire method before with success. One reason I won't use JB Weld is it does not like heat cycles. Even under low heat, low pressure, it quickly disintegrates.
I did a fair amount of digging online about test data individuals/labs have done. It actually gets stronger up to about 400F but then rapidly drops right off at anything over that. Copper is my go to.
@@sixtyfiveford Are those long term test? 9 months after applying JB Weld to a pinhole on top of a transfer case, it easily flaked off in tiny pieces. I wonder if heat hardens it and makes it brittle?
How did you do the jb weld threads? Did you fill the hole up all the way? Then put the waxed bolt in? Or was it just enough jbweld to cover the sides and then stick the bolt in?
Loctite 3967. I keep a set of that in my tool box. Basically the same thing but it’s made for repairing threads like this. I’ve had great success with it.
It may take an extra step or so but trust me, putting a stronger thread insert in a soft aluminum case is the best thing you can do. The fastener will hold better with the stronger threads especially under higher torque values without failure. But in a pinch the jb weld looks like it can get ya home.
Permatex used to make a thread repair kit much like this. It was a 2 part epoxy with a release agent to coat the bolt with. I remember using it about 30 years ago and it worked pretty good.
I think the best bet would be to not drill but simply use the JB weld as a gap filler. Just put some JB inside the damaged threads then put in the bolt, The JB rebuilds the damaged threads bridging the gap so not all the stress is on the JB.
Some good ideas - tried the copper wired trick and couldn't get it to work - ended up just buying an SAE bolt (to replace a metric one) and that worked.
Next, we use a combination of copper wire and JB Weld... I've used the copper wire trick for years on stripped battery terminals. Got the idea from sticking toothpicks in stripped screw holes in wood.
I did do this, but edited it out as it got the same results. However that was with a drilled out smooth hole and I think it would do better with a actual stripped hole where the sidewalls are coarse.
Know this is 2 years old but for a future viewer seeing this’ honestly just buy some’ lol u can get new terminals for like $20 As cars are more electronic controlled now than ever a nice tight connection is crucial’ I’m frugal’ trust me on that , Some things however u just don’t repair but replace fix it right and never deal with it again :-) My 2 cents
@@joshymcdaniel9233 For battery terminals, it's just a temporary repair, though I admit my temporary repairs sometimes take years before I get around to the permanent fix. And my cars are old.
Quiksteel is my go to for almost everything. I just couldn't get it to work in this application. Mainly because the hole was open on the bottom and it was so small.
Really cool video man, this is something I've always wondered about. But for you guys looking for a real fix, the way to go (on a budget) is to buy an ebay helicoil set. $10, free shipping, and comes in a 30 pack. If done right, the threads will be as strong- if not stronger than the parent material.
I purchased this but in my application there is no space to drill the hole. Oil filter cooler on 2000 accord v6. Top bolt hole tripped out due to forgetting putting my power tool to its lowest setting (i should have use my hands) Ill try jb weld quick cure and atf 😊
Working in the late evening (dark-thirty), I cross-threaded a small machine-threaded bolt hole used to attach the carburetor body to the engine block. Rather than simply waste $55 to buy another carburetor, I hope to (re)construct the original machine threads in the carburetor housing, and in the original bolt hole. Your method is interesting-- to bore a larger hole, first, and fill the hole with JBWeld, quickly inserting the original bolt (after coating it with a release substance). At 0:56, you put JB Weld (standard, long-cure) into four enlarged bolt holes, coat the original bolts with a release chemical (WD40, wax, etc.), and insert the original bolts. After "about three days", you unthread all the bolts, hoping to find an acceptable thread pattern. In fact, you discovered only the wax-coated bolt formed the desired threads. However, my situation requires a slightly different approach. My cast aluminum carburetor body (Briggs & Stratton engine 127802-1901-B1) has attachment "ears"-- cast extensions of the carburetor body for attaching the bolts. Unfortunately, the working dimensions provide no extra material to allow me to bore a larger hole, and I must use the original hole. My plan is to use JBWeld to fill the hole, thoroughly coat the original bolt threads with candle wax, and insert the bolt in place. After 72 hours, my hope is the original thread pattern will have been restored. --------------------------- 1. Do you have any suggestions for improving the method? 2. What solvent should I use to clean the cross-threaded bolt hole in the cast aluminum housing?
You just need to attach the air filter housing? The easiest is just to step up to a larger bolt or a course screw that will bite new threads. This is more than adequate to hold on the filter housing. If you want to attempt the JB WELD, rubbing alcohol, carb cleaner or brake cleaner are the best degreaser. A thin coat of wax (candle wax likely too thick) or oil. Smear JB WELD onto the bolt making sure it goes into the threads well. Push the wet bolt into the stripped hole and allow to cure for 24hrs.
I just fixed a rental apt. fridge stripped bottom door hinges thread holes with quick dry JBW 10 days ago . Absolutely save the day. I just apply the holes with plenty JBW and pushed the bolts in and brace the door with wooden blocks for support for 10 minutes. I expect it to last until the compressor goes. It's a done deal result.
Holy crap! That's actually really cool, I wouldve never thought of this. For low torque applications this would probably work good, they have metal infused epoxies too that might work better
@@mrmackie85 um actually no, it isnt.. There are epoxies out there with higher metal content/higher quality bonders for wheel repairs and things of that nature. trust me, at $30 a tube you do notice how much harder that stuff is.
@@mrmackie85 lmao are you really not going to accept that you are way wrong. Don’t be so ignorant. If everything was created equal we wouldn’t have these comparison tests now would we..
Wax is usually a paste, and putting it on is really easy, just slop it on and wipe it off. It only needs a very thin film, just like you car wax, you wipe off the excess and it leaves a very thin coating. One reason it works so well is the exact relief you get with a super thin layer, so thin you can't even see it. The thin layer gives you perfect contact. Wipe it on and wipe it off a couple times and you have a perfect film of wax left. You'd have to use a solvent to get the wax layer off.
JB Weld products are good. I was a chemical rep for a very large automotive parts distributor and we sold a lot of the JB Weld products. They are not snake-oil.
You should try this J-B Weld test but using studs instead of a bolt. This would test the strength of the threads from a nut applying straight pulling force on the stud without a rotational force also being applied to the threads from the stud turning. You could actually use a little longer bolt with a nut on it and tighten the nut down without rotating the bolt.
Studs don’t strip threads though they break off in holes. Stripped threads get cut and pulled out by turning fasteners so in this application of stripped threads the rotating fastener is the only way to go.
What if the hole was cracked and broken and it needed to be filled with jb weld because there is no more threads . I broke a screw inside and had to try and extract it and the extracter then broke . So i used a rotary tool to grind down the exracter and screw and now have a hole that needs filling .my thought is to fill the hole with quick steel or jb weld , and a stud ,put my parts hole over the stud and add a nut . The other 2 holes are fine . Its just 1 ? Thoughts
@@broncosforlife88 Hi, I had similar issue on my 5.8L intake manifold. The two bolts that hold the thermostat housing broke. I was able to get on bolt out but the other needed to be drilled out. Well the drill bit I was using broke in the bolt. I used a cutting wheel to cut out a piece of the manifold over the bolt so I could remove the remaining piece of broken bolt. I then bought a couple of studs and inserted one stud into the cut open bolt hole. I then took the piece of the manifold I cut out and used JB Weld to glue that piece in place on top of the stud. I let the JB Weld set up for a few days and that was more than 2 years ago. For my application the nut did not need to be very tight to seal the thermostat housing to the intake manifold especially when using RTV. If the fastener in your application needs to be real tight JB Weld may not work.
Going to be doing this on my 96’ seadoo for one of the head bolt threads that needs 17 ft-lbs of torque for spec, the bolt threads are roughly 1 3/8 inches long, am drilling and tapping. If that doesnt work, Ill drill it out more for a helicoil in JB weld threads which would work because a helicoil pushes against the threads to make everything tighter. Im using Marine Jb Weld with 5010 PSI
Not sure if anyone posted about JB Welds temperature range. Max temp is 600 F. But 500F is pretty reliable. Quick set epoxies for the most part will break down in moisture and excessive heat.
Worked with a mechanic who used j b weld on everything-boat motors, lawn tractor,cars and trucks, everything. And he always got things fixed. And Scotty Nunez could also fix a broken heart!
Try mixing your epoxy with super fine steel wool.. Might hold better..... When I was kid we would stuff steel wool in the buggered up hole and it worked somewhat. Super tip! > You can smooth up epoxy with spit on your finger. Water won't work. Try it!
life saver needed for valve cover and cracked the head and most service mechanics recommended a need couldnt coil since it was cracked but jb weld wax left set for days put it back on held strong tyvm
I'm watching my second video now.I have a motorcycle I bought off someone and more than one thing has been stripped bout time I learn something thank u😉
Sometimes threads are stripped in aluminum and do NOT need strength but just to keep a machine bolt snug in an aluminum engine block... LocTite may be plenty good and very cheap!
A stronger way to use the JB weld is to change direction a bit. Instead of repairing a thread, use it to stick a stud in, if you can work with it, until TH-cam came along I didn't know about the copper wire method.. good video dude. I fixed my compressor with jb weld...., I followed the manufacturer torque, felt too high...it was 😵 I still prefer to trust my own feels. i love practical testing of things (if you need hints lol)
hello there. Just seen this today for first time. I hope you read this soon. Question i have pertains to how much wax do you apply to the bolt prior to this application? I would assume it would be no different than just greasing up but using the wax. your advice greatly appreciated. Cheers
excellent video! detailed and informative. thanks for posting. I have a bicycle pedal bolt which, due to loose install, stripped out the pedal crank threads. so Im searching for a relative;y easy and cheap repair.
The pedal bolt takes a lot of force from the weight of the individual. As well as a lot of leverage force. I don't think JB weld would last long in this scenario.
Nice. I carry a wax crayon when I'm working mainly for saw blade lube but has so many random uses. Checked out the copper wire fix, brilliant idea thanks!
When dealing with epoxy the 24 hour cure is all ways best. I use petroleum jelly to lube the threads. The West System epoxy is expensive but works great.
Wax the bolt and let it dry. Put JB weld onto the bolt threads and into the hole, just on the walls. Push the bolt into the hole and allow the JB weld to fully cure. Remove the bolt and the threads are formed.
A brake caliper bolt has a lot of torque and generally only two bolts hold on the caliper. I would first see if you can put a bolt and nut all the way through the damaged part. If not I would try the copper wire but if you can't get good torque you'll need to replace the part. Generally these tactics are for something like a valve cover where if it fails the worst that can happen is an oil leak. COPPER WIRE TRICK VIDEO: th-cam.com/video/soOvDuwfnQA/w-d-xo.html
I've brazed with those on many occasions and it's not that straight forward. You have to put a ton of heat into the object and continually remove the aluminum oxide layer to get it to bond. Just a little too much heat and the aluminum part you're fixing turns to soup and it's junk.
saw a guy test epoxy with wood shavings, fiber glass, carbon fiber, and even tiny industrial diamonds. He got great improvement in strength. I guess JB Weld involves some sort of material in epoxy or something (yeah, just a guess, lol). Wonder how that kind of material would hold up? This is great stuff. Thanks, yet once again.
jb weld has metal particles, metal filled epoxy has been around for a few decades, you can get various fills, steel, alumium, ceramic, this also affects the colour . (devcon used to sell various versions of filler)
I did put a magnet to the JB Weld as they claim it has steel in it. It was barely magnetic. If anything I think they put in steel dust. I did try the same test with copper wires running in the JB-WELD but got the same results. I think I'm going to try fiberglass as that will contour very well.
It fell out of the hole when I tried to tap it. It was an open bottom hole and I couldn't get it compressed in there good enough to press it against the sidewalls. I felt bad as it is one of my favorite Epoxies and has a much higher physical tearing strength than JBWELD
Auto parts stores used to carry both Devcon Plastic Aluminum and Plastic Steel in tubes. I haven’t seen it in years. I just found a similar product on Amazon.
I heat the part up, then wipe candle wax, vaseline, or polishing wax. The last of which we used to use as a parting agent for mold making... bronze casting.
I have a hard rubber shift knob off an old Jeep that has completely lost its threads. Tomorrow I think I'll try this. The hole is already super big. I'll pack it almost full of JB Weld. Heat the steel threads to clean them and then either Vaseline or paint wax the threads. Plop it on and let it set. Maybe tape the underside so it doesn't drip out. I think for my uses, this will be perfecto and if I ever need to remove it, it shouldn't fight me too badly. 👌😉
If I were to JB weld a hole, then use a timesert do you think that could get me a slightly higher torque? I really botched a water pump... I have a truck and the mechanic before me slapped on a water pump to a 300 Ford and he broke one of the bolts and left it. (He just used 3 bolts instead of 4 and used rtv, the water pump leaked slightly when I got it, but I didn't realize a bolt was missing I thought it was a weep hole) So I tried to drill the bolt out (without taking the engine out or moving anything) with just a drill... I end up making things way worse because I couldn't get a straight hole, so now the hole is more like a messed up 9/32 (I tried to tap it for 3/8 and failed miserably). So basically the hole is all messed up. I tried to use a 3/8-16 bolt and I got the water pump on and snug, but it still leaked like a sieve, in desperation I messed up the hole even more. 3/8-16 bolt wont work I don't think because the hole is too close to the sealing surface there isn't enough room for the gasket to seal. So now what I really need to do is to somehow get that home back to 5/16-18. I am wondering if I fill the hole with JB weld, the use like a 5/16-18 timesert if I can get enough surface area so I can torque the bolt to like 18ftlbs of torque. I would obviously have to figure out how to make my new holes PERFECT. My main questions are how does JB weld handle heat? Can I use Timeserts to increase the torque? I have heard that it's really hard to weld cast iron.... I know nothing about welding so I don't think I can just weld the hole back then recut a new hole.... Idk. If I can't fix this the truck is gone, which is really depressing for me because I have put so much time and money into it.
Jb weld really isn't that strong. I would use it on something like a valve cover or the like that didn't need that much torque. If you oversized the hole that a time sert/ helicoil will no longer work. I would use this method: th-cam.com/video/Ykk0bP4DChE/w-d-xo.html
So what kind of wax do you use and you just insert the bolt inside with the J-B Weld or did you screw it in and let it sit there because I have a old VW pickup that has issues with the radiator hose connected to the block where the boat is not threatening at all and after removing everything have noticed that somebody attempted to rethread but did a really poor job to the point where when you can actually see the bolt tightening in the inside and I just thought of just completely filling it up with J-B Weld and just rethreading it Completly .
This won't hold up on a sprocket, too much vibration and torque. This technique would be good for something like an engine side case bolt that just holds the oil in.
Can you explain the steps to rethread with JB Weld and wax. Do I fill the hole with JB weld, cover the bolt with wax and then screw the bolt in and leave it over night??
Wax the bolt with a very thin layer. Apply JB weld to the hole sidewalls and to the bolt threads making sure you get good coverage into all the threads. It doesn't take much. Push the bolt in and allow to cure.
Will this method work on Transmission (Aluminum) Drain Plug? See I stripped a bit that hole and probably the original bolt using a faulty torque wrench. It didn't click and continued to torque, then rotated once free, so I checked w/electronic one and it was 33 Ft-lbs instead of 22. Been mortified of course, I removed the plug, I hoped it was damaged rubber gasket that gave that single free rotation. I saw one 3/4 tiny circle ring came out of the hole though. Then I torqued it back w/electronic Torque Wrench to 22 Ft-lbs. But after I decided to put a new plug w/magnet I bought and received. So I removed the old plug again, and there was another tiny aluminum ring removed from the hole. The new plug was not going in. I put back the original, but was not able to torque it anymore, like on 11Ft-lbs it would rotate free. I removed it again, checked w/mirror, seemed like all the threads were in the hole in good condition, and put that new plug, it was tight 1st, but then went in. I hand tighten it, then snagged, and not sure what torque to apply now. From all the described above I conclude that the hole is slightly stripped. Maybe I'll be O'K if every time I remove the Plug I put a new one. Total mess I know, very upsetting mistake. If someone has any ideas please share. The film is very good. Thank you.
How did you apply the wax. Was the bolt dipped into it or wax poured into a hole in the JB weld. I would really appreciate it I need to fix a cylinder head thread that was stripped bad
I wiped on some paste wax and wiped off any excess. I used Johnson's Paste wax, but any hard car wax ( type that comes in the stubby tubs) should work the same.
Seems like this might work for what I need to fix. Water pump bolt snapped in the block, extractor failed. It only needs to be held snug around 8ftlb of torque so this method may be just fine.
I have had the same thing happen to my truck we were taking the bolts out and the damn bolt snapped right at the block, so now we have been drilling and tapping the bolt hole to try to get the new bolts in
@@Xclusive615 I ended up just torquing the remaining good bolts drove for a few thousand miles with no leaks. I would assume this would probably work though just dont over torque the bolts as most water pump bolts dont require alot of torque you'll probably be fine.
I’m wondering if it work on a 10mm bolt , it’s my valve cover gasket, the hole is stripped and doesn’t hold down the cover down which leads to oil leak ? Any advice ?
Cool, this might work for lose thread tripod on my iPhone case if it works- watching.... I guess it can't fix a shallow loose threat but what if we put aggragates of powder copper or power stainless steel (grounded from broken staintess steel kitchen stuff). God bless.
How to wax the bolt without filling the threads? (from comments by Stuart and replies 7 months ago): Use a lighter to heat the bolt and the excess wax will drip off, leaving a sufficient coating when cool to keep the JB Weld from sticking. (From other replies:) Wax works better than oil, because wax hardens and doesn't mix with the epoxy like liquid lubricants, which weakens their composition.
I accidentally stripped my front axle clamp nut to my motorcycle. It is a 6mm hex. Almost stripped smooth inside the head. I am 'hoping' JB Weld will allow me just enough support to break the bolt free otherwise, I am may be screwed. Do you suggest I JB Weld in a 66mm hex key or weld in a larger bolt for better grip?
Whick JB Weld would you recommend for a stripped vavle cover bolt hole on a 196cc engine on a mini bike ? I managed to strip 1 of the 4 valve cover bolt holes while tightening them down after installing new valve springs. I will need to be able to remove the valve cover in the future once in a while to check the valve lash so i need something that will not be impossible to take the bolt out but at the same time hold it down tight so it's securely down while i'm riding.
Hello. So how much wax do you apply? My ignition coil hole where the bolt screws into has stripped out and won’t hold much, barely, but not much. I was thinking about just cleaning off the bolt then apply the JB weld into the hole then apply a little wax on the bolt before I screw the bolt back in, so it breaks free easily..does that sound right? I just don’t want to have to drill out the hole,tap it, an so forth. So any advice would be great. Thanks! 🤙
Yes, I think it could be tightened afterwards. However something like a set screw for a pulley is what I think you're talking about, would likely have too much vibration and need too much force for this to really work good.
many people dont know that jb weld normal formula after seting 72 hours to cure is 2× as strong as 24hrs seting. at 70 degrees air temp. jb-weld makes its strongest formula called jb-marine weld 2parts also but at 48hrs set time its much stronger than jb-weld original. if you test jb-weld marine formula and let it set for a full 5 days untouched at 70 degrees air temp its 3× stronger than original jb-weld. the marine formula can withstand constant temps well into the mid 300 degree range. nice video good day.
I think if you were to add a bunch of wire chunks into the jb weld matrix then drill it and tap it the wire would be held by the jb weld and provide more strength than a powder base.
We used J-B Weld to glue in a stripped spark plug. It would hold for about six months of daily driving. We learned to keep the J-B in the car for a fast roadside repair. Drove the car like that for many years until sold... with the repair kit...
That's impressive.
That’s is amazing. respect
I hope that the new owners know about that.
@@gohjohan ha they probably didnt they probably scammed the new owner
@@gohjohan He said “with the repair kit”. So it’s implied that they did know.
Great product. Back in the early '80s I patched the lower half of the gas tank on a car and drove it for more than a year with no sign of any leaking.
It has it's place for sure and when used properly can be the most practical option. Problem comes when people have no idea how to fix something and decide this will do it and put it on a greasy, mud covered gas tank then complain it didn't work.
@@sixtyfiveford Surface prep is key
@@oldretireddude got that right!
@@sixtyfiveford The older JB would turn to plastic when the ethanol gas came out but I think they've redone their formula to make it compatible now. Hope they have anyway. Thanks, Pal!
Patched the side of a radiator in '14 I was in school couldn't afford a new one at the time, but it's 2020 now and still it doesn't leak.
Had a 82' Honda 500XL rebuilt motor job at a local bike shop where I live -- months later oil was leaking outta the head, I slowly took it apart only to find out the S.O.B used a cheap heli-coil cuz he stripped it out himself . I took it someplace else and the fix was high end threaded SS inserts, worked amazingly. Having said that, the previous bike shop is no long in business ( l rarely get lucky taking shortcuts)
Looking at a similar issue with a moto 4 225 i picked up but a repair hasn't been attempted. i've tried to replace the bolt and pray i get lucky but no luck with that haha.
I'm really not trying to do major work on this as it already has other issues i'm not addressing so do you think the method shown would help with my issue or just be a waste of time? I really just want the oil leak to stop/slow down. Gonna work on unsticking clutch pads tomorrow though :)
@@RYANINBODEN1547-- the SS threaded inserts usually applied with red locktite (l think) -- it's a much stronger threaded fix than the aluminum heli-coil -- l would go that route as you'll more than likely never have an oil leaking problem again --
With the SS insert you can really crank down the head ensuring a tight seal
I used JBWeld to fix stripped threads on a riding lawn mower motor mounting bolt several years ago and it’s still holding. It’s location would have required total removal of the motor. I’ve not needed to remove the bolt so I can’t comment on the quality of the threads, but the “fix” is is still holding so I’m not going to poke at it.
I find using aluminum brazing rod works best. I use Blue Demon Triple Play rods and a Mapp gas torch. Heat the base metal, flux the hole and fill it up with the rod. Center punch, drill and tap. Just like new.
The trouble with epoxy is going to be durability. Thermal cycling will cause the jb weld threads to debond
Nice tip, for when gravity is on your side.
Hey what about filling a horizontal hole in an engine block-the insert failed and i have a 9/16 hole😩😩😩
@@kirbytabor9956 there are welding rods for horizontal use, ask a shop
@@galehess6676 Ya they wouldn’t tell me anything 💰💰💰💰 Super Alloy5 has a 600 degree melting point👍
@@kirbytabor9956 mmmm some guy with a welding truck would prolly give you the info
Video production is getting great Moe. I remember when I was watching videos on a little 12 inch by 24 inch section of cleared off work bench. Now look how clean and organized and professional the garage is! Great editing and lots of work showing on the end product!
Wow, thanks, I'm glad you liked it. Yeah, I stopped taking on new projects to invest some time into clearing/cleaning my workspace.
What kind of wax do you use
Great video . . . I used a kit I believe from Permatex few years back to restore threads on a head bolt stud on my Model A . . . . It worked well enough to torque the head to spec. Took me a few trys, each time giving it more cure time. Success was after 2 days curing! . . . . Shop looks good . . . . Ginger has endless energy . . . . . . Rog
It'll get you out of pickle, sometimes. All this epoxy stuff is very finicky. Thanks, I've been cleaning up the shop lately and Ginger would never stop if I let her.
Really appreciate the effort to test these methods. It's nice to have real data before SHTF. Thanks!
Hey Thanks.
I used water weld (which is made by JB weld) to make threads. My bathtub has two handles that you turn for the hot and cold water. I had damaged the threads on the hot water when I was working on it. I was going to have to call a plumber to come in with a torch and replace everything. But instead, I took the handle out of the wall for the hot water and wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. And then, I wrapped some water weld around the Teflon tape and stuck the whole thing back in the hole in the wall. The waterweld stuck to the threads that were in the wall, and I could spin the hot water handle free of the water weld because it was wrapped in Teflon tape. Just like you did with the wax and the bolt. This has been holding for years. I did replace the water weld once several years ago. And it had held for several years before that.
I've used your copper wire method before with success. One reason I won't use JB Weld is it does not like heat cycles. Even under low heat, low pressure, it quickly disintegrates.
I did a fair amount of digging online about test data individuals/labs have done. It actually gets stronger up to about 400F but then rapidly drops right off at anything over that. Copper is my go to.
@@sixtyfiveford Are those long term test? 9 months after applying JB Weld to a pinhole on top of a transfer case, it easily flaked off in tiny pieces. I wonder if heat hardens it and makes it brittle?
Good tip. Thanks
How did you do the jb weld threads? Did you fill the hole up all the way? Then put the waxed bolt in? Or was it just enough jbweld to cover the sides and then stick the bolt in?
I’m talking about the first three bolts you showed up
My wife's uncle used JB Weld to seal a cracked block on his outboard motor and it worked great...Thays when I realized how great JB Weld is.
Vaseline also works well as a release agent with JBWeld.. Just FYI.
Did you try wax, first, but found petroleum jelly preferable?
I have a bunch of DJ lighting fixtures that are stripped. Could you recommend a wax product on Amazon? Thank you!
@@bobgreene2892 I found vaseline more compliant and brushes on more easily than wax.
Loctite 3967. I keep a set of that in my tool box. Basically the same thing but it’s made for repairing threads like this. I’ve had great success with it.
Yeah, there are better epoxies for sure. I just wanted to test with the most easily obtainable ones.
Trust you to show us something I have never thought off or heard off .Interested to see it work .
I’ve thought about doing this when bored and day dreaming. I always wondered if it would actually work.
Great Video. Does this J-B Weld method works for a Stripped Oil Drain Plug on a car?
It may take an extra step or so but trust me, putting a stronger thread insert in a soft aluminum case is the best thing you can do. The fastener will hold better with the stronger threads especially under higher torque values without failure. But in a pinch the jb weld looks like it can get ya home.
Any trade or brand names?
What thread insert would you use and where can I purchase??
Permatex used to make a thread repair kit much like this. It was a 2 part epoxy with a release agent to coat the bolt with. I remember using it about 30 years ago and it worked pretty good.
Interesting. I didn't know anyone ever sold a kit.
Napa sold this kit labeled Napa/ Permatex
I think the best bet would be to not drill but simply use the JB weld as a gap filler. Just put some JB inside the damaged threads then put in the bolt, The JB rebuilds the damaged threads bridging the gap so not all the stress is on the JB.
Some good ideas - tried the copper wired trick and couldn't get it to work - ended up just buying an SAE bolt (to replace a metric one) and that worked.
I used the wax method on an old carb choke, small 8-32 X 3/8 slot screw, worked great!
If you mix aluminum or steel fine powder 10 to 20 percent in the epoxy mix it will hold better... Makes the repairs stronger than just the epoxy
Great video! The shop is looking great . It's about time for a toolboxesssss tour !!
Next, we use a combination of copper wire and JB Weld... I've used the copper wire trick for years on stripped battery terminals. Got the idea from sticking toothpicks in stripped screw holes in wood.
I did do this, but edited it out as it got the same results. However that was with a drilled out smooth hole and I think it would do better with a actual stripped hole where the sidewalls are coarse.
Know this is 2 years old but for a future viewer seeing this’ honestly just buy some’ lol u can get new terminals for like $20
As cars are more electronic controlled now than ever a nice tight connection is crucial’
I’m frugal’ trust me on that , Some things however u just don’t repair but replace fix it right and never deal with it again :-)
My 2 cents
How about stripped bolt holes
@@joshymcdaniel9233 For battery terminals, it's just a temporary repair, though I admit my temporary repairs sometimes take years before I get around to the permanent fix. And my cars are old.
I love the quick steel. I have sealed the valve on a 250 gallon oil tank and 3 years later it is solid.
Quiksteel is my go to for almost everything. I just couldn't get it to work in this application. Mainly because the hole was open on the bottom and it was so small.
Really cool video man, this is something I've always wondered about.
But for you guys looking for a real fix, the way to go (on a budget) is to buy an ebay helicoil set. $10, free shipping, and comes in a 30 pack. If done right, the threads will be as strong- if not stronger than the parent material.
Where is it $10 and free shipping?
I purchased this but in my application there is no space to drill the hole.
Oil filter cooler on 2000 accord v6. Top bolt hole tripped out due to forgetting putting my power tool to its lowest setting (i should have use my hands)
Ill try jb weld quick cure and atf 😊
Working in the late evening (dark-thirty), I cross-threaded a small machine-threaded bolt hole used to attach the carburetor body to the engine block. Rather than simply waste $55 to buy another carburetor, I hope to (re)construct the original machine threads in the carburetor housing, and in the original bolt hole.
Your method is interesting-- to bore a larger hole, first, and fill the hole with JBWeld, quickly inserting the original bolt (after coating it with a release substance). At 0:56, you put JB Weld (standard, long-cure) into four enlarged bolt holes, coat the original bolts with a release chemical (WD40, wax, etc.), and insert the original bolts. After "about three days", you unthread all the bolts, hoping to find an acceptable thread pattern. In fact, you discovered only the wax-coated bolt formed the desired threads.
However, my situation requires a slightly different approach. My cast aluminum carburetor body (Briggs & Stratton engine 127802-1901-B1) has attachment "ears"-- cast extensions of the carburetor body for attaching the bolts. Unfortunately, the working dimensions provide no extra material to allow me to bore a larger hole, and I must use the original hole. My plan is to use JBWeld to fill the hole, thoroughly coat the original bolt threads with candle wax, and insert the bolt in place. After 72 hours, my hope is the original thread pattern will have been restored.
---------------------------
1. Do you have any suggestions for improving the method?
2. What solvent should I use to clean the cross-threaded bolt hole in the cast aluminum housing?
You just need to attach the air filter housing? The easiest is just to step up to a larger bolt or a course screw that will bite new threads. This is more than adequate to hold on the filter housing. If you want to attempt the JB WELD, rubbing alcohol, carb cleaner or brake cleaner are the best degreaser. A thin coat of wax (candle wax likely too thick) or oil. Smear JB WELD onto the bolt making sure it goes into the threads well. Push the wet bolt into the stripped hole and allow to cure for 24hrs.
I just fixed a rental apt. fridge stripped bottom door hinges thread holes with quick dry JBW 10 days ago . Absolutely save the day.
I just apply the holes with plenty JBW and pushed the bolts in and brace the door with wooden blocks for support for 10 minutes.
I expect it to last until the compressor goes. It's a done deal result.
Holy crap! That's actually really cool, I wouldve never thought of this. For low torque applications this would probably work good, they have metal infused epoxies too that might work better
That is ‘EXACTLY’ what JB Weld is…
@@mrmackie85 um actually no, it isnt.. There are epoxies out there with higher metal content/higher quality bonders for wheel repairs and things of that nature. trust me, at $30 a tube you do notice how much harder that stuff is.
@@anthonys3906 so JB weld is not a metal infused epoxy??? Ok….
@@mrmackie85 lmao are you really not going to accept that you are way wrong. Don’t be so ignorant. If everything was created equal we wouldn’t have these comparison tests now would we..
Thank you. you don't know how much you've help me with my stripped problem. now get your mind out of the gutter. But yes you did help.
How do you apply the wax to the bolt?
Wax is usually a paste, and putting it on is really easy, just slop it on and wipe it off. It only needs a very thin film, just like you car wax, you wipe off the excess and it leaves a very thin coating. One reason it works so well is the exact relief you get with a super thin layer, so thin you can't even see it. The thin layer gives you perfect contact. Wipe it on and wipe it off a couple times and you have a perfect film of wax left. You'd have to use a solvent to get the wax layer off.
@@eltomas3634what kind of wax and where to get it?
Absolutely awesome. Now I know to get the slow dry JB to do what I wanted to do.
JB Weld products are good. I was a chemical rep for a very large automotive parts distributor and we sold a lot of the JB Weld products. They are not snake-oil.
I remember my dad showing me this one time, JB-Weld is some versatile stuff.
Hey Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
If only i could do that for my starter
I often wondered if that would work but didn't know what to use as a lubricant. Now I do. Nice job!
Hey Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
@@sixtyfiveford I'm always trying to reinvent the wheel. I'm subscribed! And nice job by the way.
You should try this J-B Weld test but using studs instead of a bolt. This would test the strength of the threads from a nut applying straight pulling force on the stud without a rotational force also being applied to the threads from the stud turning. You could actually use a little longer bolt with a nut on it and tighten the nut down without rotating the bolt.
Studs don’t strip threads though they break off in holes. Stripped threads get cut and pulled out by turning fasteners so in this application of stripped threads the rotating fastener is the only way to go.
What if the hole was cracked and broken and it needed to be filled with jb weld because there is no more threads . I broke a screw inside and had to try and extract it and the extracter then broke .
So i used a rotary tool to grind down the exracter and screw and now have a hole that needs filling .my thought is to fill the hole with quick steel or jb weld , and a stud ,put my parts hole over the stud and add a nut . The other 2 holes are fine . Its just 1 ? Thoughts
@@broncosforlife88
Hi, I had similar issue on my 5.8L intake manifold. The two bolts that hold the thermostat housing broke. I was able to get on bolt out but the other needed to be drilled out. Well the drill bit I was using broke in the bolt. I used a cutting wheel to cut out a piece of the manifold over the bolt so I could remove the remaining piece of broken bolt. I then bought a couple of studs and inserted one stud into the cut open bolt hole. I then took the piece of the manifold I cut out and used JB Weld to glue that piece in place on top of the stud. I let the JB Weld set up for a few days and that was more than 2 years ago. For my application the nut did not need to be very tight to seal the thermostat housing to the intake manifold especially when using RTV. If the fastener in your application needs to be real tight JB Weld may not work.
Some of those tabs you could drill all the way thru and put longer bolt thru to a nut. Off subject, but might help somebody in a similar pinch.
Very true.
awesome night consider that
Going to be doing this on my 96’ seadoo for one of the head bolt threads that needs 17 ft-lbs of torque for spec, the bolt threads are roughly 1 3/8 inches long, am drilling and tapping. If that doesnt work, Ill drill it out more for a helicoil in JB weld threads which would work because a helicoil pushes against the threads to make everything tighter. Im using Marine Jb Weld with 5010 PSI
I created a race using JB weld for a wheel bearing on the front tire of a '74 Olds ninety eight. Never had an issue with it after that.
I wrapped teflon tape around the threads and it work well. I did it on a 5mm screw
No one ever mentions LPS anymore
Don't know how I missed this one, thanks Moe, going to go watch the copper one now.
Drives me crazy when I find a pile of videos that somehow I missed because TH-cam didn't put them in front of me.
There is a two part epoxy called form a thread it comes with a release agent you spray on the treads , works great.
Link?
If you're going to drill out the holes anyway consider using a finer thread tap in the enlarged hole before you put the J-B Weld in .
Yeah, true.
Not sure if anyone posted about JB Welds temperature range. Max temp is 600 F. But 500F is pretty reliable.
Quick set epoxies for the most part will break down in moisture and excessive heat.
Worked with a mechanic who used j b weld on everything-boat motors, lawn tractor,cars and trucks, everything. And he always got things fixed. And Scotty Nunez could also fix a broken heart!
Try mixing your epoxy with super fine steel wool.. Might hold better..... When I was kid we would stuff steel wool in the buggered up hole and it worked somewhat. Super tip! > You can smooth up epoxy with spit on your finger. Water won't work. Try it!
Steel wool is a good idea.
life saver needed for valve cover and cracked the head and most service mechanics recommended a need couldnt coil since it was cracked but jb weld wax left set for days put it back on held strong tyvm
AWESOME!
Thank you sharing this. Really awesome method to get this done. Wish I had come across this years ago. 🔥👍💯
What kind of wax did you use ? Did you fill the hole first with JB Weld and push the bolt in and then allow JB Weld to harden around bolt ?
The approach to this video, I appreciate.
Hey Thanks.
Hi, what sort of wax did you use? Thanks!
Pls if anyone know let me know!!
@@EdwinsGarage there's a can of Johnson's paste wax in the video and he links to it in the description - click to expand his description : )
Bee's
@@EdwinsGarage I would try bees wax.
I've done this before, I thought I invented this, HA! It does work and I used a bit of axle grease.
Awesome!
Axle grease is crude oil mixed with flour. What a great story. Hard to get crude oil unless you visit a toxic waste site, aka drill rig.
I'm watching my second video now.I have a motorcycle I bought off someone and more than one thing has been stripped bout time I learn something thank u😉
Sometimes threads are stripped in aluminum and do NOT need strength but just to keep a machine bolt snug in an aluminum engine block... LocTite may be plenty good and very cheap!
what is the thread is chipped instead of stripped? and would the loctite hold in hot temperatures?
I am not required to answer your 'what if ' questions ... Ask another person who may actually know the answer.
Once you put the JB on the whole how long you wait to put the bolt in
Immediately.
Thanks for this! Saved me from trying the ones that don't work well.
A stronger way to use the JB weld is to change direction a bit. Instead of repairing a thread, use it to stick a stud in, if you can work with it, until TH-cam came along I didn't know about the copper wire method.. good video dude. I fixed my compressor with jb weld...., I followed the manufacturer torque, felt too high...it was 😵 I still prefer to trust my own feels. i love practical testing of things (if you need hints lol)
I think a stud would work out very well.
Einstein said, "Creativity is intelligence having fun". Genius idea. Thanks.
Thanks
Nice demonstration Moe with numbers to back it up.
Belzona 1111 is an industrial 2 part metal reinforced epoxy. Machinable. Works amazingly!
i love that JB weld, sealed an ATV gas tank with a 1/8" hole, while tank was half full.
That's awesome.
hello there. Just seen this today for first time. I hope you read this soon. Question i have pertains to how much wax do you apply to the bolt prior to this application? I would assume it would be no different than just greasing up but using the wax. your advice greatly appreciated. Cheers
Very thin layer. You don't want to change the profile of the bolt threads. I use Johnson's paste wax but any hard car wax would work.
excellent video! detailed and informative. thanks for posting.
I have a bicycle pedal bolt which, due to loose install, stripped out the pedal crank threads. so Im searching for a relative;y easy and cheap repair.
The pedal bolt takes a lot of force from the weight of the individual. As well as a lot of leverage force. I don't think JB weld would last long in this scenario.
agreed. Ill use the wire method.
@@sixtyfiveford
Nice. I carry a wax crayon when I'm working mainly for saw blade lube but has so many random uses. Checked out the copper wire fix, brilliant idea thanks!
What other quick foxes have you done with a crayon?
Did you have to drill the hole before using Sae or did you just thread it in?
I did this on plaster air filter housing worked great
Awesome!
Nice video. Love the Mastercraft decal. I’ve owned them for over 36 years
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
When dealing with epoxy the 24 hour cure is all ways best. I use petroleum jelly to lube the threads. The West System epoxy is expensive but works great.
Very true.
Just glue the bolts in the holes. What a great idea
The wax was thicker. It allowed a slight space to the threads the oil is basically "0" gap. So it had friction.
After you fill the stripped hole with JB Weld, do you put the wax on the bolt and then insert and let cure?
Wax the bolt and let it dry. Put JB weld onto the bolt threads and into the hole, just on the walls. Push the bolt into the hole and allow the JB weld to fully cure. Remove the bolt and the threads are formed.
Awesome, thanks so much!
Can't find the copper wire video. I have a 1999 durango. Stripped caliber bolt. I have. Jb weld. I am kind of confused. Need help.
A brake caliper bolt has a lot of torque and generally only two bolts hold on the caliper. I would first see if you can put a bolt and nut all the way through the damaged part. If not I would try the copper wire but if you can't get good torque you'll need to replace the part. Generally these tactics are for something like a valve cover where if it fails the worst that can happen is an oil leak.
COPPER WIRE TRICK VIDEO: th-cam.com/video/soOvDuwfnQA/w-d-xo.html
@@sixtyfiveford Had to drill out and tap. I put a heli coil in and the bottom bolt fell out. I was told now that I need to glue the heli coil in?
Fill the hole with Alumaweld stick....Drill new hole....Tap it.....Done!!! Better than new!!!
I've brazed with those on many occasions and it's not that straight forward. You have to put a ton of heat into the object and continually remove the aluminum oxide layer to get it to bond. Just a little too much heat and the aluminum part you're fixing turns to soup and it's junk.
@@sixtyfiveford Try putting the piece in an oven to heat it....then it holds the heat better and you can alumaweld it a bit easier
do you think this could work for a FWD transmission mount bolt? mines kinda stripped
Not only interesting but a great time saver as to what could work in these situations. Thank you. Joe Z
Hey Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Simple solution, use Marine Tex epoxy, it is messy but it works!
So, I have a stripped headboard bolt hole, could I use the JB weld to get the screw to actually work?
saw a guy test epoxy with wood shavings, fiber glass, carbon fiber, and even tiny industrial diamonds. He got great improvement in strength. I guess JB Weld involves some sort of material in epoxy or something (yeah, just a guess, lol). Wonder how that kind of material would hold up? This is great stuff. Thanks, yet once again.
jb weld has metal particles, metal filled epoxy has been around for a few decades, you can get various fills, steel, alumium, ceramic, this also affects the colour . (devcon used to sell various versions of filler)
I did put a magnet to the JB Weld as they claim it has steel in it. It was barely magnetic. If anything I think they put in steel dust. I did try the same test with copper wires running in the JB-WELD but got the same results. I think I'm going to try fiberglass as that will contour very well.
What wax are you using as the lubricant ?
I love quick steel for many applications, but as you said it is thick. Did you test quick steel as fill, drill and tap?
It fell out of the hole when I tried to tap it. It was an open bottom hole and I couldn't get it compressed in there good enough to press it against the sidewalls. I felt bad as it is one of my favorite Epoxies and has a much higher physical tearing strength than JBWELD
@@sixtyfiveford thanks. It is impressive stuff in the right applications.
We used to use stuff called Devcon . It’s like liquid aluminum. I don’t know if they make it anymore. Got it at an aviation supplier.
Auto parts stores used to carry both Devcon Plastic Aluminum and Plastic Steel in tubes. I haven’t seen it in years. I just found a similar product on Amazon.
I heat the part up, then wipe candle wax, vaseline, or polishing wax. The last of which we used to use as a parting agent for mold making... bronze casting.
I have a hard rubber shift knob off an old Jeep that has completely lost its threads. Tomorrow I think I'll try this. The hole is already super big. I'll pack it almost full of JB Weld. Heat the steel threads to clean them and then either Vaseline or paint wax the threads. Plop it on and let it set. Maybe tape the underside so it doesn't drip out. I think for my uses, this will be perfecto and if I ever need to remove it, it shouldn't fight me too badly.
👌😉
If I were to JB weld a hole, then use a timesert do you think that could get me a slightly higher torque?
I really botched a water pump... I have a truck and the mechanic before me slapped on a water pump to a 300 Ford and he broke one of the bolts and left it. (He just used 3 bolts instead of 4 and used rtv, the water pump leaked slightly when I got it, but I didn't realize a bolt was missing I thought it was a weep hole) So I tried to drill the bolt out (without taking the engine out or moving anything) with just a drill...
I end up making things way worse because I couldn't get a straight hole, so now the hole is more like a messed up 9/32 (I tried to tap it for 3/8 and failed miserably). So basically the hole is all messed up.
I tried to use a 3/8-16 bolt and I got the water pump on and snug, but it still leaked like a sieve, in desperation I messed up the hole even more. 3/8-16 bolt wont work I don't think because the hole is too close to the sealing surface there isn't enough room for the gasket to seal.
So now what I really need to do is to somehow get that home back to 5/16-18.
I am wondering if I fill the hole with JB weld, the use like a 5/16-18 timesert if I can get enough surface area so I can torque the bolt to like 18ftlbs of torque.
I would obviously have to figure out how to make my new holes PERFECT.
My main questions are how does JB weld handle heat? Can I use Timeserts to increase the torque?
I have heard that it's really hard to weld cast iron.... I know nothing about welding so I don't think I can just weld the hole back then recut a new hole....
Idk. If I can't fix this the truck is gone, which is really depressing for me because I have put so much time and money into it.
Jb weld really isn't that strong. I would use it on something like a valve cover or the like that didn't need that much torque. If you oversized the hole that a time sert/ helicoil will no longer work. I would use this method:
th-cam.com/video/Ykk0bP4DChE/w-d-xo.html
@@sixtyfiveford Thanks for the response. That is what I am going to have to do.
Will the copper wire method hold liquid from seeping out?
So what kind of wax do you use and you just insert the bolt inside with the J-B Weld or did you screw it in and let it sit there because I have a old VW pickup that has issues with the radiator hose connected to the block where the boat is not threatening at all and after removing everything have noticed that somebody attempted to rethread but did a really poor job to the point where when you can actually see the bolt tightening in the inside and I just thought of just completely filling it up with J-B Weld and just rethreading it Completly .
? I want to try something like this on my rear wheel on my dirt bike it’s the 4 bolts to sprocket to wheel hub should I drill or just use J B ?
This won't hold up on a sprocket, too much vibration and torque. This technique would be good for something like an engine side case bolt that just holds the oil in.
Can you explain the steps to rethread with JB Weld and wax. Do I fill the hole with JB weld, cover the bolt with wax and then screw the bolt in and leave it over night??
Wax the bolt with a very thin layer. Apply JB weld to the hole sidewalls and to the bolt threads making sure you get good coverage into all the threads. It doesn't take much. Push the bolt in and allow to cure.
Will this method work on Transmission (Aluminum) Drain Plug? See I stripped a bit that hole and probably the original bolt using a faulty torque wrench. It didn't click and continued to torque, then rotated once free, so I checked w/electronic one and it was 33 Ft-lbs instead of 22. Been mortified of course, I removed the plug, I hoped it was damaged rubber gasket that gave that single free rotation. I saw one 3/4 tiny circle ring came out of the hole though. Then I torqued it back w/electronic Torque Wrench to 22 Ft-lbs. But after I decided to put a new plug w/magnet I bought and received. So I removed the old plug again, and there was another tiny aluminum ring removed from the hole. The new plug was not going in. I put back the original, but was not able to torque it anymore, like on 11Ft-lbs it would rotate free. I removed it again, checked w/mirror, seemed like all the threads were in the hole in good condition, and put that new plug, it was tight 1st, but then went in. I hand tighten it, then snagged, and not sure what torque to apply now. From all the described above I conclude that the hole is slightly stripped. Maybe I'll be O'K if every time I remove the Plug I put a new one. Total mess I know, very upsetting mistake. If someone has any ideas please share. The film is very good. Thank you.
How did you apply the wax. Was the bolt dipped into it or wax poured into a hole in the JB weld. I would really appreciate it I need to fix a cylinder head thread that was stripped bad
I wiped on some paste wax and wiped off any excess. I used Johnson's Paste wax, but any hard car wax ( type that comes in the stubby tubs) should work the same.
Using the wire method, is it better to place the wires horizontally with the bolt or thread it around the grooves on the bolt?
Seems like this might work for what I need to fix. Water pump bolt snapped in the block, extractor failed. It only needs to be held snug around 8ftlb of torque so this method may be just fine.
I have had the same thing happen to my truck we were taking the bolts out and the damn bolt snapped right at the block, so now we have been drilling and tapping the bolt hole to try to get the new bolts in
Did this work for you? Samething happened to me on my water pump and I just need 9lbs
@@Xclusive615 I ended up just torquing the remaining good bolts drove for a few thousand miles with no leaks. I would assume this would probably work though just dont over torque the bolts as most water pump bolts dont require alot of torque you'll probably be fine.
I’m wondering if it work on a 10mm bolt , it’s my valve cover gasket, the hole is stripped and doesn’t hold down the cover down which leads to oil leak ? Any advice ?
Cool, this might work for lose thread tripod on my iPhone case if it works- watching....
I guess it can't fix a shallow loose threat but what if we put aggragates of powder copper or power stainless steel (grounded from broken staintess steel kitchen stuff).
God bless.
Do you know if you use crazy glue or superglue with baking soda it's a weld gets very very hard.
How to wax the bolt without filling the threads? (from comments by Stuart and replies 7 months ago): Use a lighter to heat the bolt and the excess wax will drip off, leaving a sufficient coating when cool to keep the JB Weld from sticking. (From other replies:) Wax works better than oil, because wax hardens and doesn't mix with the epoxy like liquid lubricants, which weakens their composition.
I used a paste wax (WAX I used: amzn.to/33492lG ) but any automotive wax should work as well. Candle wax may be too thick but should still work.
I accidentally stripped my front axle clamp nut to my motorcycle. It is a 6mm hex. Almost stripped smooth inside the head. I am 'hoping' JB Weld will allow me just enough support to break the bolt free otherwise, I am may be screwed. Do you suggest I JB Weld in a 66mm hex key or weld in a larger bolt for better grip?
Whick JB Weld would you recommend for a stripped vavle cover bolt hole on a 196cc engine on a mini bike ? I managed to strip 1 of the 4 valve cover bolt holes while tightening them down after installing new valve springs. I will need to be able to remove the valve cover in the future once in a while to check the valve lash so i need something that will not be impossible to take the bolt out but at the same time hold it down tight so it's securely down while i'm riding.
Copper wire stand tip I talk about the end of the video is probably the easiest and the most secure. It can be done multiple times.
How are you getting the JB weld into the bolt holes?
Hello. So how much wax do you apply? My ignition coil hole where the bolt screws into has stripped out and won’t hold much, barely, but not much. I was thinking about just cleaning off the bolt then apply the JB weld into the hole then apply a little wax on the bolt before I screw the bolt back in, so it breaks free easily..does that sound right? I just don’t want to have to drill out the hole,tap it, an so forth. So any advice would be great. Thanks! 🤙
Any car wax will work. Just wipe it on the bolt and then wipe it off.
@@sixtyfiveford is anti sieze safe to use on ignition coil threads? To help break the bolt free once it’s dried on the first time.
@@ELword56 I don't see why that wouldn't work.
Do you think you could put the JB Weld, on the repaired area, and if the area had a set screw, if coated in wax you could tighten it after curing?
Yes, I think it could be tightened afterwards. However something like a set screw for a pulley is what I think you're talking about, would likely have too much vibration and need too much force for this to really work good.
I am curious how the baking soda / krazy glue trick would compare.