TIP: I use moly compound [not grease] to lube the splines before attaching the sprocket like BMW riders do to their splined shaft drive as it reduces wear
Cheers Rev - Most of the bikes I rode, have the speedo running off the front wheel - not the back or thur the trans. The real crux - is whether to use this opportunity to change the overall gear ratios of the bike. Real world example - 82 Kawa 750 Twin - 17 F 43R =60mph@6500 rpm. My pick was 17F 30R = 60mph @ 4400 rpm. The good outcome was going from 35mpg to 55mpg. Top speed was of course increased, but I had already done that some 25 yrs before.
@@mpccenturion I'm trying to make my daily (07 Honda cbr125r) an even better daily, and I'm kinda new to this stuff I usually just replace the part. Are you talking about going to a smaller front or rear sprocket?
This sets a standard for instruction videos. No bullshit, no hidden product placements, again no bullshit and straight to the point.. love that. Thanks. Very clear now
A few things I've learned over the years from doing my own maintenance on motorcycles: 1) I usually replace the sprockets every other chain replacement, rather than each time, and base this on the 2nd chain lasting nearly as long as the first on a given sprocket pair (yes, the 2nd chain does wear out more quickly, but not enough to justify the expense of the sprocket set); 2) the biggest sign your chain needs replacement - assuming it was lubed regularly - is when you find you are having to adjust the slack more frequently, say, instead of every 500 miles its down to every 300 (or as I did once, letting it go so far the chain came off the rear sprocket while leaned over - that was a real butt-pucker moment); 3) tightening up the slack too much is really hard on the chain - set it to around 1"/25mm of deflection mid-span; 3) clean your chain frequently, especially in dusty or wet conditions, but beware of using any kind of petroleum solvent (including kerosone) on an X- or O-ring chain as it took me years to learn the hard way that solvents get past the seals and cause the chain to get stiff and start kinking up a lot sooner - I just use a Grunge Brush to remove dirt then relube with a generous amount of common 75W-90 gear oil. This advice only applies if you regularly clean and lube your chain *before* it starts getting rusty, however...
First of all, there is no way in hell I'm adjusting the tension of my chain every 500 miles. Second, it took you 10 years to learn something I learned in 10 minutes just by reading the user manual? And third, I'm not going to use gear oil on the chain unless it's in Scottoiler. Otherwise, that's what chain lube is for.
@@mickeypopa No, it took me years to notice that kerosene strips the grease out of what should be "permanently lubricated" x-ring (or o-ring) chains. If you have a plain roller bearing chain then fancy-pants chain lubes might very well be superior to 75w-90 gear oil, but for an x- or o-ring chain the only jobs of the lubricant applied to the chain are to repel water and prevent rust. If any externally applied lubricant could make it past the x- or o-ring seal then so will dust and grit, which means it isn't a seal after all.
You can use kerosene, diesel, W40, etc (any "oily" solvent) except gasoline or anything too aggressive. Just apply it on an old piece of cloth and then use it to remove the excess of dirt and old grease, with the help of an old toothbrush for the hard to reach places. I heard that gear oil works good but I don't like the mess and having to relube so often. Personally I use lithium grease, applied with a syringe (without the needle obviously) and then I distribute it with my work gloves.
I like to adjust it to where it just touches the chain guide at bottom about an inch and 2mm. I also have never lost a clip link as a daily rider with occasional drag race with friends on a lonely straight. Or twisties
5:13 Made me chuckle, I don’t know if you appreciate how much we love you guys as a team. Been watching you two now for 9 years. The best Motorsports duo ever. PERIOD.
Make sure to do some research about your specific bike, especially if it's a vintage bike. Some o-ring or x-ring type chains end up being just a little too wide for certain older bikes.
A well maintained chain can easily last over 20,000 miles. I put 20k on a chain on my Norton850; I have 17k on my Triumph Bonneville T100 and just recently made a slight adjustment to the chain. I wouldn’t be surprised to go 30 k on it.
RK GB520/525/530 GXW chains are by far the best chains I've used (commuting, weekend rides and track). The Supersprox Stealth rear sprockets are also top notch, very durable and light and well worth the money.
It has been 22 years since I changed a chain and sprocket set because I SWORE I would never own another chain drive street bike (3 shaft drive, one belt and now two chain drive bikes currently). This was a great reminder. In my case a 1999 VFR800. I could not find my old breaker/rivetter so new one purchased.
6:11 why would changing the tooth count on sprockets throw off the speedometer. Does the speedometer not get its data from the wheel rotation, often the front wheel? Changing tooth count would only change engine revs up or down for a particular speed but the wheel rotation would still stay the same for a particular speed. Changing tire size has the potential to throw off speedometer count.
@@libraeotequever3pointoh95 possibly, but that would not be the norm. And if so, I would expect him to mention that it is on bikes measuring the speed from the drive shaft or gearbox output rather than wheel rotation.
They already did one on their old channel, Motorcyclist Magazine on the MC Garage series just search: "Motorcycle Gearing Changes Explained | MC Garage"
Another thing to add to chain quality, manufacture spec chains normally are rated around 2.5 tonne weighted rating before the chain breaks on average (varies between bikes of course), where you can buy RK chains etc that can take up to 7/8 Tonnes before breaking, ie higher durability than standard thereby longer lasting.
I just got a new to me Vstrom and going from belt to chain is quite a change. Thank you for your vids. I just did the first ever clean/lube today and was curious about chain/sprocket.
Helpful. I recently acquired a 1982 Harley with a conventional chain. I think I will keep it well lubed and hope it lasts a long time. Changing the front sprocket on a Harley is a nightmare. I will need to remove the outer primary cover, clutch, primary chain, front primary sprocket with compensator, and inner primary cover with associated oil and vent hoses.
My motorcycle's chain has a clip type Master Link and after watching this video, I now realize I wasted my money having a motorcycle shop install my chain when I could've just done it myself. 🤦♂️😅 I can't believe how undereducated I was on this stuff lol Keep up the awesome work with these kinds of videos, people like me NEED them 😂😅🙏
Jesus, thanks for talking about chain finish. I'm not a flashy guy, but I put on a gold D.I.D. chain on my ADV bike. People liked to give me shit for it, but it really helped prevent rust when I lived in coastal Georgia. Everything rust like a MFer down there, and the difference was very noticeable.
Just so you know JT is also a great choice 👍for chains. I have a big bike, a tiger 955i and I'm using JT for 5 years now and nothing bad ever happened, I'm always using the heaviest chain possible which of Course is the 530 114 golden one x-ring in my case and for my smaller bike I also use the heavy version because I'm working with it every day, as I'm a courier, so as you can imagine there's a lot of strain going on, and the same goes for my tiger as well, thousands of miles spent on travelling around country and I changed it after 3 years of the heaviest possible use, and I could let it run for a couple of thousands of miles more but there was no reason to take that risk since I could buy a brand new heavy duty set for 150 euros here in Greece and that's a lot if you ask me but it is what it is I suppose and since every chain nowadays has replaced the oring with xring technology there's not much you can do to avoid the 150 dollars or whatever type of money you have where you live in order to get something that will last at least make the best choice without spending the half of you monthly incomes to get a freakin chain. Sooo, stop ✋ wasting your money 💰 on much more famous brands who charge you more because they managed to build a name around the world of chains or whatever and keep in mind that choosing a huge brand name in order to get something that will last means that you will have to pay more to get what you need for no reason when you can get the same quality for less if you do your research properly. Now in case you don't know what JT is let me tell you that they're using the same Japanese DID related materials with the difference that they're assembled in Thailand instead of Japan 🇯🇵, which means that you're getting the same quality of materials whith the only difference that they're getting assembled in Thailand instead of Japan. Now use that knowledge for your own f@cking benefit, care for your vehicle, and stop wasting your money 💰 on huge brands just to play the smart guy because you payed 100 more dollars or whatever on a freakin chain ⛓. Always go for the heavy duty, lubricate it on time, make the proper adjustments on time which means you never begin to go on a trip or even a simple ride before you first check the condition of your chain and your whole bike in general 😉. And for last, learn how to take care of your vehicle properly as your whole life depends on it because bikes are definitely not for everybody, they're not scooters neither toys, and you can literally loose your life in a blind of an eye, so bear all that in mind you'll be just fine.
I also used to be one of the ‘protect the factory grease’ camp... until I came back from an initial spring ride with just so much grass cuttings, blossoms, seeds, etc stuck to my chain I decided it might be a bit too tacky lol
I think it depends on how well you care for your chain. My chain tends to rust out because I am lazy, so the sprockets can easily last for a few chains before I need that added expense.
The supersprox sprocket is worth it. They have a life time warrenty on your back sprocket. When it wears out they will give you a free new one. After the first replacement you saved money in the long run. My local shop delt with the exchange for me. So my bike was never down waiting for the new sprocket to come in. If you do it yourself you have to mail them your old sprocket and wait for them to mail you the new one.
My original chain and sprockets went 45,000 miles on my Honda Shadow. Proper maintenance= long life. I purchased a kit containing both OEM stock sized sprockets and O-ring chain.
One extra thing, when you get a larger sprocket, you will need a longer chain, generally, every 2 teeth are an extra link, and you get even number of link on chains because you wouldn't be able to connect an odd numbered chain, since the plates alternate.
One more consideration: check to see if your bike uses locking nuts on the rear sprocket. If so it's a good idea to replace those as well since they deform once tightened like a crush washer.
I've lost three masterlink clips on my WR250R which I ride mostly street with occasional off-road when I can find it and have since switched to rivet links. I'd recommend doing the same. Yes, I correctly set the clip so the opening is pointing to the back of the bike, opposite of the direction of travel. I think the chain guide on the bike just rubs it too much on decel.
Let’s be honest. How many of you have lost a clip link assuming you installed it correctly and pre pinched it before installing. I did a 520 conversion on a 600 with clip link. Never lost or had one come off. Saves you money from going to a shop. Also at the track it allows you to completely remove chain and clean properly.
Excellent video. Should have quickly touched on tooth count and how it affects gearing though. Like going down on tooth count up front or more teeth on the rear lower the gearing for faster acceleration but lower to speed and higher revs at cruising speed and adding teeth to the front or lowering teeth on the rear has the opposite affect. Still a great video though with a bunch of information.
Easy just buy what the manufacturer specs, steel chain, steel sprockets, aluminium is to soft for everyday road use. I run a 2000 XJR1300SP in the UK and just buy manufacturer spec, ride 70 miles daily all year round, just keep your chain and sprockets clean, lubed, correctly adjusted, most importantly, and it'll last you years 😃🏍
I know people are sketched out by eBay, but I but kits off of there for my bike. If you do the reading and match the specs, it's pretty good. I've had 3 kits between 2 of my bikes with no issues, chains are the right length too, so no cutting or punching rivets that motion pro chain tool is top notch too. Spendy, but worth the investment long term.
Unrelated to this video, but would you guys be down to make a video on different types of stands/jacks/mounts/risers/chocs , and bikes they do and don’t work with? For example: a sport bike riser with a cruiser bike. I know you ask for comments for stuff we’d like to see, so just shooting that out. Thanks for all the great content man.
Very informative. One concern though: my manual says to never brush the top of the (sealed) chain lest you risk damaging the o-rings. I see you brushing your chain to clean the factory excess grease. Just wanted to mention that so viewers don’t make a habit of vigorously brushing down the chain.
If you want maximum power to the rear wheel use the unsealed chain. I can feel a very noticeable power loss when using o-ring chains on bikes like my KDX 200 and XR250R.
Freaking awesome love it. Hadn't realize he moved over from MC garage. Very informative. I've never kept a bike long enough to change the chain and sprockets. Unfortunately the bike I just picked up has a rusted chain and so safer to swap out. Super glad for the info.
I literally only changed my chain and not my sprockets and my sprockets were just fine. No teeth missing or extremely worn out.. chain is still fine 5000 miles later😂 saved a good amount of cash too!! It's all up to you really if you wanna fork out the money...
Wear to the sprockets isn't always visible. A couple thousandths of an inch wear on each tooth face means your new chain is only actually engaging the first few teeth on the sprockets, not all of them, which means more rapid wear (and more driveline noise) as you ride. As you said it's up to you if you want to replace everything as a set, but the fact remains that a new chain will wear faster on worn sprockets, even if said sprockets don't visibly look worn.
I didn't even know X and Z-ring chains were a thing until recently. Are they really more reliable and is the extra cost worth it or is it just a gimmick?
The little LED that says what gear you’re in? It tells you what gear you’re in...? If you have an after market one, it’ll plug into the diagnostics port and use the rpm vs road speed to work out what gear you’re in after an initial calibration. It won’t show what gear you’re in with the clutch pulled however.
I replaced my chain and sprockets.....man that rivet master link kicked my ass. Always buy extra master links, in case you mess up. Looks me I did....twice lol
@@tolga1cool the motion pro tool?? It will go until you stop turning. I’m not to sure what you’re referring to. According to information I found about mushrooming the head. It should be between 5.4 and 5.7 with a micrometer. Anything past that it cracks. Then you need a new one to start over
@@15Kilo Im referring yo the tool made by DID themselves. It's for their hollow rivet style link. You just screw it down until the tool is flush with the chain and then you're set.
Thanks for the info. I just got a used street bike and the chain is stretched really bad. Then when I went online thinking it would be just order the first chain I find realized there is quite a bit more to it and the blogs are flooded with conflicting opinions, confusing info, and contradictions. What a pain.
Hope you Ari read this one out... Recently my cb650r has been flapping in a power loss sensation... Around 3 months ago I changed the air filter and healed the matter for a while but then came the issue... Changed later the 4 spark plugs and cleaned the injectors... Improved a lot and even got one of the best gas mileage... Recently again I feel this power loss... At this point I am running out of options and I am being told there are 2 options... 1-clutch worn out or 2-chain sprockets should be replaced... Last notes I can tell are the front sprocket seem solid and decent 🤷🏻♂️ but when riding at times it feels like when one small drowns with a sip of a glass of water as comparison...the overall sensation is there is a power loss when reving it up it struggles to reach the average speeds it often reached...
Little help here please!! I recently purchased a chain/sprocket combo for my Triumph T120. I would say this model bike fall somewhere between a standard and a cruiser. I have the correct chain length and link size: 100/525 and went with a quality RK brand. However I noticed that this chain is for "Supersport" and "Roadrace" bikes as marked on the package. Also it is and XW ring which was not covered here on the chain types, in the video. Nevertheless it was a very informative video. MY CONCERN: Will this Sport/race bike chain be ok to use on my standard? What about the XW seals? Thanks for a great video!
Yea I want a 525 pitch 120 length black/gold and some steel pulleys maybe go down one in the back for a tiny bit more top end as the GSX-S1000 is geared low! Plus my Speedo is off by 5mph so that should make it about right cause right now I have to do 60 to really hit 55 on GPS! So taller gearing will either even it out or get it slightly closer! I don’t like huge changes ruins bikes just enough to make it not so buzzy on the highway is all I want! I cruise a lot not worried ain’t laying down 10 second 1/4 miles!
Remove your chain, during adjustment, soak it overnight in diesel fuel, air dry, replace then run the bike down the road to build heat then spray it with chain lube. You can use gear lube but doesn't stick well and makes a mess. Or do nothing at all, because the build up of neglect is not so bad, just keep it lube. Also a lose chain is much better than too tight.
@@StaTBMK I just bought JT Xring chain also, because local parts store was out of DID or any other big chain brand chains for my specification. Haven't replaced yet, so I'm curious how long this chain lasts. Most impressing part was a price - 54 EUR for JT vs. 90+ EUR for DID/RK etc.
good job on this video. it was well put together and easy to follow. with all the information i needed. thanks for putting in what is a good brand for noobs like me.
I'm surprised the tooth count's effect on wheel torque, rpms at a given speed / gear combo, fuel economy, shifting points etc wasn't discussed! Otherwise great video, as always.
Rivet type for extra safety! happened to me once, i was bored to rivet so i clipped on the chain, went for a ride the clip was missing, mega lucky i saw it!
Buy the Regina High Performance Endurance chain once it's available for your bike. Low maintenance chain. It needs very little cleaning, lubrication, and adjustments. DLC coated rollers and bushings.
@@danlford from what I know it's only available from BMW as the M Endurance chain in 525. It will be available from Regina soon. Other chain manufacturers will probably make it too.
Was hoping to also find out if I can use a split link on my 500cc bike or not. As I fancy the convenience of being able to put it on without special tools.
The sprockets will out last a chain that stretches, remove a link from the chain. My question, does it affect the wear of the chain or sockets, by hauling a passenger? The added weight? Yes im sure, but does it rebound? If its only once and a while you carry a passenger, not every day.
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TIP: I use moly compound [not grease] to lube the splines before attaching the sprocket like BMW riders do to their splined shaft drive as it reduces wear
Cheers Rev - Most of the bikes I rode, have the speedo running off the front wheel - not the back or thur the trans. The real crux - is whether to use this opportunity to change the overall gear ratios of the bike. Real world example - 82 Kawa 750 Twin - 17 F 43R =60mph@6500 rpm. My pick was 17F 30R = 60mph @ 4400 rpm. The good outcome was going from 35mpg to 55mpg. Top speed was of course increased, but I had already done that some 25 yrs before.
@@mpccenturion I'm trying to make my daily (07 Honda cbr125r) an even better daily, and I'm kinda new to this stuff I usually just replace the part. Are you talking about going to a smaller front or rear sprocket?
Z&A along with Ryan F9 are the gold standard of YT moto content.
add 44 teeth and it would be perfect
@Casey R. and bennets bike
dont forget mike on bikes
I like the special cameos of Zack's head and hands. Yes Zack, we know those are your hands holding the board
I like how he's clearly laying flat on the floor to hold the board up that way. That's probably a pretty comical shot if you zoom out all the way.
Been watching this dude since he was on MC garage. Love this guy. Always full of great useful information
Same here. 😊
Ari's a man of legend
Back when he had the dreads.
Same here! Awesome guy! I have learned so much from his videos.
HES A FUCKING SAV
This sets a standard for instruction videos. No bullshit, no hidden product placements, again no bullshit and straight to the point.. love that. Thanks. Very clear now
A few things I've learned over the years from doing my own maintenance on motorcycles: 1) I usually replace the sprockets every other chain replacement, rather than each time, and base this on the 2nd chain lasting nearly as long as the first on a given sprocket pair (yes, the 2nd chain does wear out more quickly, but not enough to justify the expense of the sprocket set); 2) the biggest sign your chain needs replacement - assuming it was lubed regularly - is when you find you are having to adjust the slack more frequently, say, instead of every 500 miles its down to every 300 (or as I did once, letting it go so far the chain came off the rear sprocket while leaned over - that was a real butt-pucker moment); 3) tightening up the slack too much is really hard on the chain - set it to around 1"/25mm of deflection mid-span; 3) clean your chain frequently, especially in dusty or wet conditions, but beware of using any kind of petroleum solvent (including kerosone) on an X- or O-ring chain as it took me years to learn the hard way that solvents get past the seals and cause the chain to get stiff and start kinking up a lot sooner - I just use a Grunge Brush to remove dirt then relube with a generous amount of common 75W-90 gear oil. This advice only applies if you regularly clean and lube your chain *before* it starts getting rusty, however...
First of all, there is no way in hell I'm adjusting the tension of my chain every 500 miles.
Second, it took you 10 years to learn something I learned in 10 minutes just by reading the user manual?
And third, I'm not going to use gear oil on the chain unless it's in Scottoiler. Otherwise, that's what chain lube is for.
@@mickeypopa No, it took me years to notice that kerosene strips the grease out of what should be "permanently lubricated" x-ring (or o-ring) chains. If you have a plain roller bearing chain then fancy-pants chain lubes might very well be superior to 75w-90 gear oil, but for an x- or o-ring chain the only jobs of the lubricant applied to the chain are to repel water and prevent rust. If any externally applied lubricant could make it past the x- or o-ring seal then so will dust and grit, which means it isn't a seal after all.
You can use kerosene, diesel, W40, etc (any "oily" solvent) except gasoline or anything too aggressive.
Just apply it on an old piece of cloth and then use it to remove the excess of dirt and old grease, with the help of an old toothbrush for the hard to reach places.
I heard that gear oil works good but I don't like the mess and having to relube so often. Personally I use lithium grease, applied with a syringe (without the needle obviously) and then I distribute it with my work gloves.
Why clean the chain? It just removes the protective barrier that has built up 🤪
I like to adjust it to where it just touches the chain guide at bottom about an inch and 2mm. I also have never lost a clip link as a daily rider with occasional drag race with friends on a lonely straight. Or twisties
He is the best motorcycle self repair advisor there is.
5:13 Made me chuckle, I don’t know if you appreciate how much we love you guys as a team. Been watching you two now for 9 years. The best Motorsports duo ever. PERIOD.
These (and the daily rider videos) are why I am loyal to revzilla. Thank you for the knowledge.
I have a shaft drive bike but I'm still watching. What can I say? I love this series!
I'm a tool nerd too, I love the bit in Schism where they go back and forth from 5/8 to 7/8
Make sure to do some research about your specific bike, especially if it's a vintage bike. Some o-ring or x-ring type chains end up being just a little too wide for certain older bikes.
A well maintained chain can easily last over 20,000 miles. I put 20k on a chain on my Norton850; I have 17k on my Triumph Bonneville T100 and just recently made a slight adjustment to the chain. I wouldn’t be surprised to go 30 k on it.
This is excellent - chain and sprocket buying for the uninitiated is a nightmare and this clears it all right up!
Finally someone that can explain with detail about sprockets and chains thank you sir I really appreciate this video
hi friend .do u need chains
only a 7 minute++ video but full of information & entertainment(zack short appearance) 😆
We keep in concentrated ;)
@@AriH211 everyone can see that, more concentrated than when you're on the track racing 😂
I bought my DID vx3 gold plated chain like 3 months ago but I really enjoy listening to people nerd out over things i also nerd out over...
RK GB520/525/530 GXW chains are by far the best chains I've used (commuting, weekend rides and track). The Supersprox Stealth rear sprockets are also top notch, very durable and light and well worth the money.
It has been 22 years since I changed a chain and sprocket set because I SWORE I would never own another chain drive street bike (3 shaft drive, one belt and now two chain drive bikes currently). This was a great reminder. In my case a 1999 VFR800. I could not find my old breaker/rivetter so new one purchased.
Thank you!!! I was literally about to do this for the first time today! 😂
omg! whos holding the whiteboard at the end?? I love it😂😂
6:11 why would changing the tooth count on sprockets throw off the speedometer. Does the speedometer not get its data from the wheel rotation, often the front wheel? Changing tooth count would only change engine revs up or down for a particular speed but the wheel rotation would still stay the same for a particular speed. Changing tire size has the potential to throw off speedometer count.
some bikes measure the gearbox to get information to indicate speed.
@@libraeotequever3pointoh95 possibly, but that would not be the norm. And if so, I would expect him to mention that it is on bikes measuring the speed from the drive shaft or gearbox output rather than wheel rotation.
Could you do a shop manual about 'gearing up' ie: down two, up one teeth etc. Maybe how these work, why, pro/con etc
They already did one on their old channel, Motorcyclist Magazine on the MC Garage series just search: "Motorcycle Gearing Changes Explained | MC Garage"
Always a pleasure to listen to Ari. Great video with condensed information.
Another thing to add to chain quality, manufacture spec chains normally are rated around 2.5 tonne weighted rating before the chain breaks on average (varies between bikes of course), where you can buy RK chains etc that can take up to 7/8 Tonnes before breaking, ie higher durability than standard thereby longer lasting.
It is that time for me and that Google search was not making it easy.. Thank you guys for simplifying all those endless choices and possibilities..
This is a lot like racing bycicles luckily I am familiar with this :D
I just got a new to me Vstrom and going from belt to chain is quite a change. Thank you for your vids. I just did the first ever clean/lube today and was curious about chain/sprocket.
Helpful. I recently acquired a 1982 Harley with a conventional chain. I think I will keep it well lubed and hope it lasts a long time. Changing the front sprocket on a Harley is a nightmare. I will need to remove the outer primary cover, clutch, primary chain, front primary sprocket with compensator, and inner primary cover with associated oil and vent hoses.
My motorcycle's chain has a clip type Master Link and after watching this video, I now realize I wasted my money having a motorcycle shop install my chain when I could've just done it myself. 🤦♂️😅 I can't believe how undereducated I was on this stuff lol Keep up the awesome work with these kinds of videos, people like me NEED them 😂😅🙏
Jesus, thanks for talking about chain finish. I'm not a flashy guy, but I put on a gold D.I.D. chain on my ADV bike. People liked to give me shit for it, but it really helped prevent rust when I lived in coastal Georgia. Everything rust like a MFer down there, and the difference was very noticeable.
Just so you know JT is also a great choice 👍for chains. I have a big bike, a tiger 955i and I'm using JT for 5 years now and nothing bad ever happened, I'm always using the heaviest chain possible which of Course is the 530 114 golden one x-ring in my case and for my smaller bike I also use the heavy version because I'm working with it every day, as I'm a courier, so as you can imagine there's a lot of strain going on, and the same goes for my tiger as well, thousands of miles spent on travelling around country and I changed it after 3 years of the heaviest possible use, and I could let it run for a couple of thousands of miles more but there was no reason to take that risk since I could buy a brand new heavy duty set for 150 euros here in Greece and that's a lot if you ask me but it is what it is I suppose and since every chain nowadays has replaced the oring with xring technology there's not much you can do to avoid the 150 dollars or whatever type of money you have where you live in order to get something that will last at least make the best choice without spending the half of you monthly incomes to get a freakin chain. Sooo, stop ✋ wasting your money 💰 on much more famous brands who charge you more because they managed to build a name around the world of chains or whatever and keep in mind that choosing a huge brand name in order to get something that will last means that you will have to pay more to get what you need for no reason when you can get the same quality for less if you do your research properly. Now in case you don't know what JT is let me tell you that they're using the same Japanese DID related materials with the difference that they're assembled in Thailand instead of Japan 🇯🇵, which means that you're getting the same quality of materials whith the only difference that they're getting assembled in Thailand instead of Japan. Now use that knowledge for your own f@cking benefit, care for your vehicle, and stop wasting your money 💰 on huge brands just to play the smart guy because you payed 100 more dollars or whatever on a freakin chain ⛓. Always go for the heavy duty, lubricate it on time, make the proper adjustments on time which means you never begin to go on a trip or even a simple ride before you first check the condition of your chain and your whole bike in general 😉. And for last, learn how to take care of your vehicle properly as your whole life depends on it because bikes are definitely not for everybody, they're not scooters neither toys, and you can literally loose your life in a blind of an eye, so bear all that in mind you'll be just fine.
I didn't know about cleaning the grease that the new chain comes lubed with. Thanks for the tip, Ari.
I also used to be one of the ‘protect the factory grease’ camp... until I came back from an initial spring ride with just so much grass cuttings, blossoms, seeds, etc stuck to my chain I decided it might be a bit too tacky lol
I think it depends on how well you care for your chain. My chain tends to rust out because I am lazy, so the sprockets can easily last for a few chains before I need that added expense.
Saw this after tarawih feels better, thanks revzilla as usual great content 🙏
alhamdulillah
Love from pakistan watching this before iftar
The supersprox sprocket is worth it. They have a life time warrenty on your back sprocket. When it wears out they will give you a free new one. After the first replacement you saved money in the long run. My local shop delt with the exchange for me. So my bike was never down waiting for the new sprocket to come in. If you do it yourself you have to mail them your old sprocket and wait for them to mail you the new one.
My original chain and sprockets went 45,000 miles on my Honda Shadow. Proper maintenance= long life. I purchased a kit containing both OEM stock sized sprockets and O-ring chain.
that'll be the lack of power
One extra thing, when you get a larger sprocket, you will need a longer chain, generally, every 2 teeth are an extra link, and you get even number of link on chains because you wouldn't be able to connect an odd numbered chain, since the plates alternate.
Great video, every time I watch one of your videos it's so clear and breaks down the confusion into manageable pieces. Thanks a lot.
Dude you are the best. No one does a teach in session better than you.
I always go to TH-cam when I have a question regarding a Motorcycle. Thank you Zac.
Damn. You are super knowledgeable and have a great way to bring technical stuff to non workshop geeks like me. Thanks and great job!
One more consideration: check to see if your bike uses locking nuts on the rear sprocket. If so it's a good idea to replace those as well since they deform once tightened like a crush washer.
I don’t even have a chain drive on my bike but I love Ari and his videos!!
I've lost three masterlink clips on my WR250R which I ride mostly street with occasional off-road when I can find it and have since switched to rivet links. I'd recommend doing the same.
Yes, I correctly set the clip so the opening is pointing to the back of the bike, opposite of the direction of travel. I think the chain guide on the bike just rubs it too much on decel.
What you just described is that you put the clips on the wrong way dude.
@@waynes.2983No. I didn't.
"If you're like most riders you're going to kick things off by -" ignoring it. You're going to ignore it.
And then start hearing noises in the chain lol
Best mechanical engineering tutorial that's is free of charge.well elaborated
This video has made me so much more prepared in making a decision on buying a new drive train set. Thank you so much!🤘
Let’s be honest. How many of you have lost a clip link assuming you installed it correctly and pre pinched it before installing. I did a 520 conversion on a 600 with clip link. Never lost or had one come off. Saves you money from going to a shop. Also at the track it allows you to completely remove chain and clean properly.
Excellent video. Should have quickly touched on tooth count and how it affects gearing though. Like going down on tooth count up front or more teeth on the rear lower the gearing for faster acceleration but lower to speed and higher revs at cruising speed and adding teeth to the front or lowering teeth on the rear has the opposite affect. Still a great video though with a bunch of information.
Just replaced My chain and went with a good did gold chain with supersprox gold steel teeth alu body for the Rear and oem stock front sprocket 👍🏻
Easy just buy what the manufacturer specs, steel chain, steel sprockets, aluminium is to soft for everyday road use. I run a 2000 XJR1300SP in the UK and just buy manufacturer spec, ride 70 miles daily all year round, just keep your chain and sprockets clean, lubed, correctly adjusted, most importantly, and it'll last you years 😃🏍
Changing my chain and sprockets tomorrow can’t wait to test out the new ones I got
I know people are sketched out by eBay, but I but kits off of there for my bike. If you do the reading and match the specs, it's pretty good. I've had 3 kits between 2 of my bikes with no issues, chains are the right length too, so no cutting or punching rivets that motion pro chain tool is top notch too. Spendy, but worth the investment long term.
Haha here in NZ i just replaced the chain and sprokets for my 650 vstrom, $386 later, nothing like the prices you guys talk about in yhe states lol
I am learning so much with every episode! Thanks Ari! This is video and the “Daily Rider” is why I’m hooked on Revzilla!!!
Unrelated to this video, but would you guys be down to make a video on different types of stands/jacks/mounts/risers/chocs , and bikes they do and don’t work with? For example: a sport bike riser with a cruiser bike.
I know you ask for comments for stuff we’d like to see, so just shooting that out.
Thanks for all the great content man.
That dude is BACK ! so cool, thank you so much ! Long live !
Thanks for the video. It’s great having these to go back to when I need it.
Very informative. One concern though: my manual says to never brush the top of the (sealed) chain lest you risk damaging the o-rings. I see you brushing your chain to clean the factory excess grease. Just wanted to mention that so viewers don’t make a habit of vigorously brushing down the chain.
Quality content as always, thank you. Ari and Zack are THE MC guys in today's world!
If you want maximum power to the rear wheel use the unsealed chain.
I can feel a very noticeable power loss when using o-ring chains on bikes like my KDX 200 and XR250R.
Freaking awesome love it. Hadn't realize he moved over from MC garage. Very informative. I've never kept a bike long enough to change the chain and sprockets. Unfortunately the bike I just picked up has a rusted chain and so safer to swap out. Super glad for the info.
I literally only changed my chain and not my sprockets and my sprockets were just fine. No teeth missing or extremely worn out.. chain is still fine 5000 miles later😂 saved a good amount of cash too!! It's all up to you really if you wanna fork out the money...
Wear to the sprockets isn't always visible. A couple thousandths of an inch wear on each tooth face means your new chain is only actually engaging the first few teeth on the sprockets, not all of them, which means more rapid wear (and more driveline noise) as you ride. As you said it's up to you if you want to replace everything as a set, but the fact remains that a new chain will wear faster on worn sprockets, even if said sprockets don't visibly look worn.
@@AriH211 Flipping sprocket (if possible) gives you "new" teeth.
buying my first bike this weekend and im sure she needs a little tlc! thanks for the rundown!
Quick question, can you just change the outer Part of the multi material Sprocket?
no
I didn't even know X and Z-ring chains were a thing until recently. Are they really more reliable and is the extra cost worth it or is it just a gimmick?
Could you guys do a detailed video on gear indicators? How they work in particular with some animations. Both built in OEM and aftermarket.
The little LED that says what gear you’re in?
It tells you what gear you’re in...?
If you have an after market one, it’ll plug into the diagnostics port and use the rpm vs road speed to work out what gear you’re in after an initial calibration. It won’t show what gear you’re in with the clutch pulled however.
I replaced my chain and sprockets.....man that rivet master link kicked my ass. Always buy extra master links, in case you mess up. Looks me I did....twice lol
How did you manage that? With the did tool you literally can't possibly fuck it up?
@@tolga1cool sure you can, if you spread / mushroom the end to far and it cracks. I would say that’s fucking it up. I didn’t take it slow
@@15Kilo But with the tool made by did you can't even go too far.... That's the thing
@@tolga1cool the motion pro tool?? It will go until you stop turning. I’m not to sure what you’re referring to. According to information I found about mushrooming the head. It should be between 5.4 and 5.7 with a micrometer. Anything past that it cracks. Then you need a new one to start over
@@15Kilo Im referring yo the tool made by DID themselves. It's for their hollow rivet style link. You just screw it down until the tool is flush with the chain and then you're set.
As usual just the facts and no fluff, good stuff and cheers.
Cheers for the great explanation! It was about time I learnt more about this, and you made it simple and clear to understand.
Thanks for the info. I just got a used street bike and the chain is stretched really bad. Then when I went online thinking it would be just order the first chain I find realized there is quite a bit more to it and the blogs are flooded with conflicting opinions, confusing info, and contradictions. What a pain.
That's why we made this video! Hope it helps.
As usual. Liked before watching.
Let's go!
Guys the Regina HPE Chain is out, the world's first maintenance free chain, please do a review or something!
Hope you Ari read this one out... Recently my cb650r has been flapping in a power loss sensation... Around 3 months ago I changed the air filter and healed the matter for a while but then came the issue... Changed later the 4 spark plugs and cleaned the injectors... Improved a lot and even got one of the best gas mileage... Recently again I feel this power loss... At this point I am running out of options and I am being told there are 2 options... 1-clutch worn out or 2-chain sprockets should be replaced... Last notes I can tell are the front sprocket seem solid and decent 🤷🏻♂️ but when riding at times it feels like when one small drowns with a sip of a glass of water as comparison...the overall sensation is there is a power loss when reving it up it struggles to reach the average speeds it often reached...
valve adjustment done?
Maybe it useful to know that you only have to lube a sealed chain to prevent it from rusting. The inner of the chain has grease for proper function 👌
880g saved with 520Z3D conversion, steel sprockets and lw disk.
Number one change your gearing my XR650L stock 1545 I changed it to 1447 twice the gas mileage
Little help here please!!
I recently purchased a chain/sprocket combo for my Triumph T120. I would say this model bike fall somewhere between a standard and a cruiser. I have the correct chain length and link size: 100/525 and went with a quality RK brand. However I noticed that this chain is for "Supersport" and "Roadrace" bikes as marked on the package. Also it is and XW ring which was not covered here on the chain types, in the video. Nevertheless it was a very informative video. MY CONCERN: Will this Sport/race bike chain be ok to use on my standard? What about the XW seals?
Thanks for a great video!
Well presented as always Ari. Great, informative contents. Cheers, enjoy the weekend ride!
a video on when to know to replace the chain would be great.
New rider, glad I came across this video and thank you for the Intel!
Yea I want a 525 pitch 120 length black/gold and some steel pulleys maybe go down one in the back for a tiny bit more top end as the GSX-S1000 is geared low! Plus my Speedo is off by 5mph so that should make it about right cause right now I have to do 60 to really hit 55 on GPS! So taller gearing will either even it out or get it slightly closer! I don’t like huge changes ruins bikes just enough to make it not so buzzy on the highway is all I want! I cruise a lot not worried ain’t laying down 10 second 1/4 miles!
Great info...it answered some questions I always had about when to change the sprockets...thanks
Right on, that was the idea!
Remove your chain, during adjustment, soak it overnight in diesel fuel, air dry, replace then run the bike down the road to build heat then spray it with chain lube. You can use gear lube but doesn't stick well and makes a mess. Or do nothing at all, because the build up of neglect is not so bad, just keep it lube. Also a lose chain is much better than too tight.
Well, aftermarket sprockets (for example from JT) also comes with rubber cushion like OEM ones.
Yup, JT is pretty much the only brand that I'm aware of that offers it, and that's because they're also an OEM supplier ;)
@@StaTBMK I just bought JT Xring chain also, because local parts store was out of DID or any other big chain brand chains for my specification. Haven't replaced yet, so I'm curious how long this chain lasts. Most impressing part was a price - 54 EUR for JT vs. 90+ EUR for DID/RK etc.
Thanks for the most informative video and covering extensive aspects while buying a chain.
good job on this video. it was well put together and easy to follow. with all the information i needed. thanks for putting in what is a good brand for noobs like me.
I simply love this series, & Ari is great fella 👌
Between O-Ring and Non O-Ring, which one is better to use? And which roads is O-Ring used for and which roads is Non-Oring used for? Thank you
I'm surprised the tooth count's effect on wheel torque, rpms at a given speed / gear combo, fuel economy, shifting points etc wasn't discussed! Otherwise great video, as always.
That was the only reason I watched this video
@@kennethdarby899same
Rivet type for extra safety! happened to me once, i was bored to rivet so i clipped on the chain, went for a ride the clip was missing, mega lucky i saw it!
My bike is shaft drive and I still watched the video.
😂
Buy the Regina High Performance Endurance chain once it's available for your bike. Low maintenance chain. It needs very little cleaning, lubrication, and adjustments. DLC coated rollers and bushings.
Link? 530?
@@danlford from what I know it's only available from BMW as the M Endurance chain in 525. It will be available from Regina soon. Other chain manufacturers will probably make it too.
Did and renthal but I cant get renthal for my bike. I went back with sunstar oem. Rather have steel than aluminum
Could you turn the auto-caption subtitles on for this video please?
Was hoping to also find out if I can use a split link on my 500cc bike or not. As I fancy the convenience of being able to put it on without special tools.
Wow! I learned a lot from watching this video! Thanks so much for sharing.
The sprockets will out last a chain that stretches, remove a link from the chain. My question, does it affect the wear of the chain or sockets, by hauling a passenger? The added weight? Yes im sure, but does it rebound? If its only once and a while you carry a passenger, not every day.
Ari's favorite topic 😂💪🏻⛏️💯