Good Video. When working on a race car pit crew years ago, we Heli-Coiled all of the critical holes that we could and they never failed. We even Heli-Coiled the lug nuts because we had several times where they would get cross threaded before we Heli-Coiled them. I think the threads were getting worn even though we used Anti-Seize every time the nuts were removed. We never had to replace a Heli-Coiled lug nut despite going on and off hundreds of times and they never cross-threaded. Likewise, with the other Heli-Coils, we installed in the engine and other critical areas - they NEVER had to be replaced and we never had the threads pull out. Heli-coils with hardened stainless steel threads are far stronger than aluminum or cast iron. We've used thousands of them in the past 45 years in business. If you watch how loose the Time Sert was when being installed into the hole, it likely would have failed an official thread test. It is strongly recommended to use oil whenever drilling or taping metals. Otherwise, you get holes and threads cut oversize - and lose a lot of strength. Of course you want to degrease the outside of the Time Sert as well as the hole when planning to use Locktite to retain the TIme Sert. With Helicoils, you never have to use Locktite because the spring pressure prevents them from moving and we always used oil to install the Heli-coils. Both are great products - especially with aluminum blocks, heads and so many other parts. The Time Serts work well on plastic too (such as intake manifolds, etc). We use a soap solution for lubrication when installing either Time Serts or Heli-Coils in plastic parts to maintain hole and thread size within specifications.
Hello. Quality top notch answer there, one can really tell you know stuff. A question: In the first half of your answer it sounds like you think helicoils are best. But at the bottom you write both are great products. - Could you please tell in which situations Helicoils are best? - And in which situations TimeCerts are best? :-) Thanks a lot NaberAuto! :-)
AWESOME... but did you see what happens after a year or more in a corrosive environment, like say, on an outboard that runs saltwater? It's a TOTALLY different ballgame.
Project Farm tested these. The TimeSert expands against the case when the bolt is inserted. It was able to take significant more force than the Heli-Coil.
@@falsedragon33 Both the HeliCoil and Timesert exceeded the strength of the bolt so it's mostly irrelevant that the Timesert could take more lengthwise force.
Thanks for the video. Just an FYI, Time Sert’s instructions stress that you want to avoid bottoming out the insertion tool. So only run the tool through the Time Sert until it gets easy to turn, which means the bottom threads have expanded and locked the insert into the hole. No need to go any further.
Your advice is requested: Aircraft. About 1/32" thick cover over an inspection hole in material also about 1/32" thick. Holding the cover in place, overhead, not level and inaccessible are (48) #10 size, 10-32 thread nuts that are riveted in place. The threads on the nuts are all stripped and oversize non-aircraft, 1/4 -20 machine screws go in, but not easily. Goal is to replace the non aircraft 1/4-20 Home Depot sourced machine screws with #10, aircraft machine screws, 10-32 thread. The 48 machine screws need to be removed monthly so the cover can be taken off for inspections, and then the cover has to be re- installed. There is so much drag that the 1/4-20's from HD have to be replaced every other time or they "cam-out". Not that much torque, just hand tighten with PH2. *AMS 10 machine screw and nut is one of the aircraft industry's description for the hardware.
Gave this a "LIKE" simply because he listed the options as "A" and "TWO". Been doing this since my wife and I met. She only noticed recently. Now it drives her nuts.
I'm sold on time-serts for their ability to handle a lot of torque. I repaired 7/16 inch mounting holes for a 62 Fairlane strut bracket, using fine threads to increase torquing power. They are costly and a blind hole sometimes doesn't offer enough room to run the insert tool deep enough to flare out the insert. Heli coils are fine in low torque applications. I used them to repair the carb stud holes on my vintage edelbrock intake, and they are just fine. And far less expensive.
The hole is crooked, the thread is cut crooked and I would have used an attachment that can be held centered and not an open-end wrench. A good example of how a beginner can ruin everything. The drill hole should also have been countersunk at the top. At least that's what the manufacturer of Helicoil says. With Time-Sert, however, you should use a special milling cutter. It is part of many Time-Sert Kits. Actually, everything was done wrong here. Atleast not to the manufacturers specifications.
Used Time Sert on a 91 Pathfinder spark plug. My daughter took auto shop in high school and let a male friend of hers change one spark plugs and he striped it. The Time sert worked great and was easy to do. $200 for the kit was better than $1,000 for a new head.
Using a tap wrench instead of a spanner gives much better control and helps to keep the tap straight. Clamping the casing so it doesnt spin is aslo a good idea for several reasons and don't forget your safety glasses especially using compressed air to eject the cuttings🤕 All being said great video to show the comparisons. Thank you
But I don't think heli has moved I dud at 1st I'll inspect once I get cylinder back off . And stud out (bolt I mean) just don't get how it's broken before torquing up
Caliper thread repaird whit stainless hardsteel time insert, came in a kit. Drill tap metric m9 1.25 Strong and saved a lot of hassle changing complete hub. Good video. Thanks.
Heli Coil was invented and used in air craft engines. Was much stronger than the original threads. To say it is a temp fix is not true. Heli Coil is a proven technology. Also, your first hole you drilled was crooked.
A temp fix for a bolt that will be removed from time to time. If you don't want to have to redo the thread repair the next time or two then Time Sert is the best way to go. If you aren't going to be removing that bolt for a long time if ever then Heli Coil. First hole could have been crooked, could have been camera, but it is irrelevant because this is for demonstrating purposes only as why would he put a Heli Coil and Time Sert on the same bolt pattern for the cover? If it was going to be used? He clearly states that he would use Time Sert. If you want to bitch it should be directed to Partzilla's new website navigation. Not Johns fault btw.
@@Mattschindig >> A temp fix for a bolt that will be removed from time to time. I've used helicoils for 40 years. Never had one fail. I currently use some on my kitesurfing equipment in a critical application. I get about 100 days/year on the water (saltwater), and I remove the bolts every single session to put the gear in my car.
Very helpful video! Presumably if you were doing this "for reals" you'd want to use (a) a drill press, stepping up the drill bit sizes, (b) a tap handle to guide the tap (maybe (c) a tap follower too since you've got the drill press), (d) cutting fluid, and (e) compressed air to blow out the swarf and the broken tab of the helicoil.
Great video - In shop class we were always taught to use cutting oil / motor oil whenever drilling or cutting threads. WD40 is a good cutting oil as well
as a tool maker we use helicoil in our alum molds and plates that get changed out almost daily. they have seen 1000's of cycles of bolts in and out without failure. also why tap with the small wrench when you had a tap handle handy. i would avoid your shop after seeing this video. all this video showed is you make more commission from time serts
I’m trying to repair the thread on my timing belt tensioner on my 2jz engine, I’ve repaired or have made threads. The threads I’m trying to fix are 10mm x 1.25 so do i have to look for a tap and dye set in that size or one size bigger like a 10mm x 1.5? Or does the 10mm by 1.25 kit already compensate for the thread insert?
Hi I'm in process of getting my old bike mechanic to reppace my heli fir a timesert for piece of mind . Many say theure ok for temp fix . And read some have had a second keak from a heli on a head . For some reason my head bolt that goes to heli passed its yield point and twisted then broke not sure why as I used 25nm in sequence that went OK then 37nm but broke very unhappy
WTF, 200ftlbs of torque. bruh i recently stripped my dirt bikes oil pan threads and that dog shit is rated at only 18ftlbs so i just cant rap my head around that
So is the Time Sert Threaded all the way onto the Driver Tool before you thread it into the newly tapped hole? Or is the Driver tool only partially threaded into Time Sert when you start to thread it?
It doesn't matter, because as you screw the time sert in with the tool. It will thread itself all the way down into the time sert and spread the bottom, locking the time sert into place. Hope that helps.
you don't need a punch to break the tang you just remove the installation tool turn it 90 degrees, push down and break the tang then remove it from the hole. helicoils can be used indefinitely they are not one time use only. they are also stronger than time serts and take more torque to yield.
A Heli-Coil will last just as long as a Time-Sert. I had Heli-Coils in every head bolt hole in the aluminum engine block in my dragster and I never had one fail. They should use a person with the aptitude to demonstrate things like thread repair. Using a thread taps without oil or another cutting compound is very armature. Also a person that can hold the drill motor perpendicular to the work piece. That countersink sucked big time.
Would you mind helping me with some advice on a bolt gold for a water pump? Bolt broke, extractor broke inside, drilled it out and now home is larger than the original. It was a 6m and now I can make it an 8m but need to get it back down to 6m. Any advice on th easiest way to do this. (For water pump bolt which only needs about 9lbs). Thanks
EngIish engineer here... If an helicoil is fitted properly At the end. And the helicoil sits within the tapped thread , stopping it coming out... It's actually stronger than the original aluminum thread , so they are very good... But I also used time serts for spark plug applicat...
What if there is a hair line crack on the inside of the crankcase.i have a stripped out head bolt on my100 cc 2 cycle mortor what can i do to save it.its a new mortor any tips
So at the end of the day which has better torque, sheer, pull strength? Also if a blind hole was deep enough could you use a timesert over a heli coil any issue with this besides cost and overkill
Well never heard of a time sert. Been using heil coils for years. But I would like to see a cost comparison. Heli coils have got ubber expensive like everything else. I have a few kits I've paid in excess of $75.00 each, to fix one hole. But that expense was also I needed it right now rather than waiting a week or 2 for an online order. I have heli coiled head threads with no problems. Sometimes I drill out the alcoa and put in heli coils simply because over time the metal to alcoa monster growls and threads pull. And yes brake clean and red loc tite.
I've been using Heli Coils for many years. Never had a failure - they will last. Occasionally I use Heli Coils before a thread fails when that fixing is likely to be used time and time again.
Great video.... A huge help is to drill out the threads in steps with oil on the drill, and the drill will follow the hole, and maintain the correct hole size much better than going in with just 1 drill.
I had a thread repaired in a 500 Caddy intake manifold. It holds a bolt that secures the compressor but also blocks off vacuum as well as it goes through the intake runner. Bad design in my opinion. The machinist went with the Time Sert because of the durability.
The tool for inserting the helicoil is used to remove the tang. Just twist in opposite direction. It naturally locks in place as unscrewing it expands it. It can't go anywhere. By using punch you run the risk of dislodging the bottom thread or two of the coil insert. JS 😜
Not a problem. Both ways work depending on application. It was just the way I was shown during my apprenticeship more than thirty years ago. Possibly the design has changed slightly???
There are always pros and cons - helicoils are good if the hole has good clearance but not too much and if installed properly - people always forget to drill out all the parent thread - and this can jack out the helicoil - they can skip threads if you dont pull slightly against them when carry out its installation- helicoils are prices well and robust - the cons are if the thread has hole has too much clearance the helicoil will not fix that - Time certs - industry standard / expensive - can fix a hole with larger clearance but a deep hole can present problems if there is no suitable counter bore to sop against and drilling a counter hole at the top to make it flush can also be problematic if there is an oil or water groove close by or the wall thickness is not there - so pros and cons one is no better than the other - its just that industry has leaned towards a solid insert rather than a coil - but that does not make it a better product…..!
Assuming none of those Time Sert cons are applicable, and that will be for a LOT of people at home working on their cars, Timesert is more durable and can handle far more torque. That's why it's approved by OEMs to repair engine blocks. It works in almost all cases and can be considered a permanent fix. Definitely not for the Helicoil. Cost? What will it cost you to replace an engine block because you used a Helicoil?
@@roots4x I am inclined to disagree, just because the industry has leaned towards a particular brand - an insert of any type is only as strong as the material around it - a hole or the right pitch and clearance is necessary - I have seen time-certs fail on BMW M52 & M54 as overheating actually sinks the material between the liners and the aluminium alloy actually softens when going past a certain operating temperature (overheating) I have been doing automotive engineering for 25 years and have been using helicoils for just as long - If not installed properly they will pull especially fine pitched threads- Time Certs / WÜRTH have just priced them selves exorbitantly - Horses For Corses
If you go view several YT videos where they test torque to failure, the time certs did not do as well as the helicoil. The helicoil outlasted a grade 8 bolt...over 8,000psi. Helicoil is solid if installed properly.
Not sure if you'll reply but I've just got onto my old bike mechanic he's gonna reppace my heli for a timesert it seems so much better especially for my situation being a hg bolt into crank case for head gasket
Just think of it this way: the casing gave its body to science. It's like med students learning on a cadaver. Hopefully that part was never going to be reinstalled anywhere.
First one went in sooooo crooked Helicoil tang will snap off by simply turning the slotted insertion tool backwards, there is a weak point designed to snap.
The dealer says my rear gearbox plug threads are nonexistent and he’s going to fix it with some kind of pipe plug. I’m not mechanical but stumbled here in trying to educate myself. I want to understand the problem and be able to fix it myself if it reoccurs. How do I know what size Time-Sert to order for my ATV? I don’t even know where to start or how to search for it. Thank you for a great video!
I used to use helicoils on aircraft parts all the time. They are not one time use, especially if you fit them properly, I don't know who taught him but you wind the helicoil in till it bottoms out then turn it back till you break the tang
Hi. I’ve 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50 but when I put it in gear, it doesn’t move, the clutch just raise but no movement. Please help me with amending that problem.
It sounds like your pressure plate is stuffed? Insert 3/8” UNC helicoil two inches from the left of plate edge and, when complete, fair dump the clutch!
Great video mate 👍 I'd advise anyone with access to a drill press to use that instead of a cordless drill. It looked like it wasn't completely square due to this method.
Agreed, and I observed the same in the video. Unfortunately, a lot of the times I've had to do this the part was not something I could bring to the drill press (like a mount on the side of the motor), so I do my best to start slowly so I can see if the bit is cutting more on one side; then I adjust accordingly until my drill bit appears to shed chips equally on the entire perimeter of the hole. If possible, maybe use a jig made on the drill press that you can bring to the engine, if necessary, but I've always had to just wing it.
Time sert vs helicoil debate will never end. Both are great and the situation dictates what should be used. They act different in different material. Size, material, and use dictates what should be used. The guy you referred us to watch didn’t go into detail about this and the video you are referencing isn’t the end all be all at all.
Loctite’ll leak through to the inside of the coiled thread and remain in liquid form until you put the bolt in, at which time the unit locks together and becomes as one!
Great video for sure I was debating between going with a helicoil and comparison to the time sert. You've helped me make my decision I will be going with the Time-Sert. How long do these timeserts last? Thanks again
I'd have made it much clearer at the beginning this wasn't going to be an actual test. The other tests I've seen place their strength & fatigue limits nearly identical.
Because that's the correct procedure for helicoils, and probably for time cert. Why ? A stripped thread is neither a known and consistent diameter nor clean metal. You need to bore to get to usable metal. Then thread to the larger size with the right tap. Yes you can managed to skip the drill to enlarge part, but the results will be unpredictable.....
Funny i always break the threads unscrewing things, but that days something about the level off the mechanic. Thats why he shoold keep his stupid opinion to himself about helicoil. Dont listen to internet idiots like this people
Good Video.
When working on a race car pit crew years ago, we Heli-Coiled all of the critical holes that we could and they never failed. We even Heli-Coiled the lug nuts because we had several times where they would get cross threaded before we Heli-Coiled them. I think the threads were getting worn even though we used Anti-Seize every time the nuts were removed. We never had to replace a Heli-Coiled lug nut despite going on and off hundreds of times and they never cross-threaded. Likewise, with the other Heli-Coils, we installed in the engine and other critical areas - they NEVER had to be replaced and we never had the threads pull out. Heli-coils with hardened stainless steel threads are far stronger than aluminum or cast iron. We've used thousands of them in the past 45 years in business.
If you watch how loose the Time Sert was when being installed into the hole, it likely would have failed an official thread test. It is strongly recommended to use oil whenever drilling or taping metals. Otherwise, you get holes and threads cut oversize - and lose a lot of strength. Of course you want to degrease the outside of the Time Sert as well as the hole when planning to use Locktite to retain the TIme Sert. With Helicoils, you never have to use Locktite because the spring pressure prevents them from moving and we always used oil to install the Heli-coils.
Both are great products - especially with aluminum blocks, heads and so many other parts. The Time Serts work well on plastic too (such as intake manifolds, etc). We use a soap solution for lubrication when installing either Time Serts or Heli-Coils in plastic parts to maintain hole and thread size within specifications.
Hello.
Quality top notch answer there, one can really tell you know stuff.
A question: In the first half of your answer it sounds like you think helicoils are best.
But at the bottom you write both are great products. - Could you please tell in which situations Helicoils are best? - And in which situations TimeCerts are best? :-)
Thanks a lot NaberAuto! :-)
AWESOME... but did you see what happens after a year or more in a corrosive environment, like say, on an outboard that runs saltwater?
It's a TOTALLY different ballgame.
Project Farm tested these. The TimeSert expands against the case when the bolt is inserted. It was able to take significant more force than the Heli-Coil.
@@falsedragon33 Both the HeliCoil and Timesert exceeded the strength of the bolt so it's mostly irrelevant that the Timesert could take more lengthwise force.
Heli-coils are not a 'one time use' or 'emergency repair only'. I've used them many times.
Thanks for the video. Just an FYI, Time Sert’s instructions stress that you want to avoid bottoming out the insertion tool. So only run the tool through the Time Sert until it gets easy to turn, which means the bottom threads have expanded and locked the insert into the hole. No need to go any further.
And a tap wrench
Your advice is requested: Aircraft. About 1/32" thick cover over an inspection hole in material also about 1/32" thick.
Holding the cover in place, overhead, not level and inaccessible are (48) #10 size, 10-32 thread nuts that are riveted in place.
The threads on the nuts are all stripped and oversize non-aircraft, 1/4 -20 machine screws go in, but not easily.
Goal is to replace the non aircraft 1/4-20 Home Depot sourced machine screws with #10, aircraft machine screws, 10-32 thread.
The 48 machine screws need to be removed monthly so the cover can be taken off for inspections, and then the cover has to be re- installed. There is so much drag that the 1/4-20's from HD have to be replaced every other time or they "cam-out".
Not that much torque, just hand tighten with PH2.
*AMS 10 machine screw and nut is one of the aircraft industry's description for the hardware.
Gave this a "LIKE" simply because he listed the options as "A" and "TWO".
Been doing this since my wife and I met. She only noticed recently. Now it drives her nuts.
I had to go back for that
Huh 🤔
Bet you have a nice gun collection bud
I'm sold on time-serts for their ability to handle a lot of torque. I repaired 7/16 inch mounting holes for a 62 Fairlane strut bracket, using fine threads to increase torquing power. They are costly and a blind hole sometimes doesn't offer enough room to run the insert tool deep enough to flare out the insert. Heli coils are fine in low torque applications. I used them to repair the carb stud holes on my vintage edelbrock intake, and they are just fine. And far less expensive.
Heli is great! If you can't drill or tap straight, why would I take your opinion?
The hole is crooked, the thread is cut crooked and I would have used an attachment that can be held centered and not an open-end wrench. A good example of how a beginner can ruin everything. The drill hole should also have been countersunk at the top. At least that's what the manufacturer of Helicoil says.
With Time-Sert, however, you should use a special milling cutter. It is part of many Time-Sert Kits.
Actually, everything was done wrong here. Atleast not to the manufacturers specifications.
Used Time Sert on a 91 Pathfinder spark plug. My daughter took auto shop in high school and let a male friend of hers change one spark plugs and he striped it. The Time sert worked great and was easy to do. $200 for the kit was better than $1,000 for a new head.
Timesert is right. Good advice.
Using a tap wrench instead of a spanner gives much better control and helps to keep the tap straight. Clamping the casing so it doesnt spin is aslo a good idea for several reasons and don't forget your safety glasses especially using compressed air to eject the cuttings🤕 All being said great video to show the comparisons. Thank you
Tap wrench is a good idea, I'm just about to do a snapped nipple on an RS4 caliper..
I cringed when the spanner came out 😄
But I don't think heli has moved I dud at 1st I'll inspect once I get cylinder back off . And stud out (bolt I mean) just don't get how it's broken before torquing up
Caliper thread repaird whit stainless hardsteel time insert, came in a kit. Drill tap metric m9 1.25
Strong and saved a lot of hassle changing complete hub.
Good video. Thanks.
Heli Coil was invented and used in air craft engines. Was much stronger than the original threads. To say it is a temp fix is not true. Heli Coil is a proven technology. Also, your first hole you drilled was crooked.
It's partzilla, they WANT you to spend more money. That's why they always recommend the most expensive option.
A temp fix for a bolt that will be removed from time to time. If you don't want to have to redo the thread repair the next time or two then Time Sert is the best way to go. If you aren't going to be removing that bolt for a long time if ever then Heli Coil. First hole could have been crooked, could have been camera, but it is irrelevant because this is for demonstrating purposes only as why would he put a Heli Coil and Time Sert on the same bolt pattern for the cover? If it was going to be used? He clearly states that he would use Time Sert. If you want to bitch it should be directed to Partzilla's new website navigation. Not Johns fault btw.
They use something called “speed tape” which is basically a glorified duct tape in air craft engine repair too. Doesn’t mean it’s permanent smh
@@Mattschindig
>> A temp fix for a bolt that will be removed from time to time.
I've used helicoils for 40 years. Never had one fail. I currently use some on my kitesurfing equipment in a critical application. I get about 100 days/year on the water (saltwater), and I remove the bolts every single session to put the gear in my car.
But to be fair, I never drill and tap the hole blindfolded like he did.
Very helpful video!
Presumably if you were doing this "for reals" you'd want to use (a) a drill press, stepping up the drill bit sizes, (b) a tap handle to guide the tap (maybe (c) a tap follower too since you've got the drill press), (d) cutting fluid, and (e) compressed air to blow out the swarf and the broken tab of the helicoil.
And drill the hole straight!
Everything wrong with his technique
@@joeheinzle and go buy a tap wrench
Imma do this in my garage wish me luck
Great video - In shop class we were always taught to use cutting oil / motor oil whenever drilling or cutting threads. WD40 is a good cutting oil as well
Cutting oil is the exact opposite of engine oil look into it. They taught you wrong. Cutting oil mates surfaces engine oil seprates them.
I've just bought an M10x1.0 from Wurth. Sheared a bleed nipple on an Audi RS4 Caliper.. decided on the Timesert due to the solid insert..
Yeah getting my heli in crank replaced in same way piece of mind
Helicoils are better than time-Serts. There are at least 3 YT videos showing the failures of both. The Helicoils fared better than time-Serts.
Helicoil is all we used in aviation in my day. Good enough for an airliner or military jet good enough for cars.
Great job explaining these options. Thanks.
OMG no tap handle or drill press?? 🤮
Used time serts for years in the air cooled vws
I have used a keen sert with the small keys that you drive in locking the insert permeant.
I would definitely use a Time Sert with red Loctite, seems like a winning combination.
Time Serts rust
Good video. I have used both on many motorcycle parts. Heli coil is far better then time cert in my opinion!!
as a tool maker we use helicoil in our alum molds and plates that get changed out almost daily. they have seen 1000's of cycles of bolts in and out without failure. also why tap with the small wrench when you had a tap handle handy. i would avoid your shop after seeing this video. all this video showed is you make more commission from time serts
Exactly. This was a shil for Timeserts. Had to be. Either that or this guy hasn't been turning wrenches for very long. Heli is a temp fix LOL!
Can you obtain the same specified torque on these inserts?
I’m trying to repair the thread on my timing belt tensioner on my 2jz engine, I’ve repaired or have made threads. The threads I’m trying to fix are 10mm x 1.25 so do i have to look for a tap and dye set in that size or one size bigger like a 10mm x 1.5? Or does the 10mm by 1.25 kit already compensate for the thread insert?
Helicoils are incredible, Ive used them to on engine heads and are pretty much rated for at least 200lbs ft.
Hi I'm in process of getting my old bike mechanic to reppace my heli fir a timesert for piece of mind . Many say theure ok for temp fix . And read some have had a second keak from a heli on a head . For some reason my head bolt that goes to heli passed its yield point and twisted then broke not sure why as I used 25nm in sequence that went OK then 37nm but broke very unhappy
WTF, 200ftlbs of torque. bruh i recently stripped my dirt bikes oil pan threads and that dog shit is rated at only 18ftlbs so i just cant rap my head around that
@@mranonymous7713 Theres a video on all the diff helicoil and thread insert brands being compared and their are some that go past that its insane
Ya a dirt bike not a car
So is the Time Sert Threaded all the way onto the Driver Tool before you thread it into the newly tapped hole? Or is the Driver tool only partially threaded into Time Sert when you start to thread it?
It doesn't matter, because as you screw the time sert in with the tool. It will thread itself all the way down into the time sert and spread the bottom, locking the time sert into place. Hope that helps.
you don't need a punch to break the tang you just remove the installation tool turn it 90 degrees, push down and break the tang then remove it from the hole.
helicoils can be used indefinitely they are not one time use only. they are also stronger than time serts and take more torque to yield.
A Heli-Coil will last just as long as a Time-Sert. I had Heli-Coils in every head bolt hole in the aluminum engine block in my dragster and I never had one fail. They should use a person with the aptitude to demonstrate things like thread repair. Using a thread taps without oil or another cutting compound is very armature. Also a person that can hold the drill motor perpendicular to the work piece. That countersink sucked big time.
Would you mind helping me with some advice on a bolt gold for a water pump? Bolt broke, extractor broke inside, drilled it out and now home is larger than the original. It was a 6m and now I can make it an 8m but need to get it back down to 6m. Any advice on th easiest way to do this. (For water pump bolt which only needs about 9lbs). Thanks
@anglianutz
which one do i use for my toilet?
EngIish engineer here... If an helicoil is fitted properly At the end.
And the helicoil sits within the tapped thread , stopping it coming out... It's actually stronger than the original aluminum thread , so they are very good... But I also used time serts for spark plug applicat...
Thanks for the video was very helpful.👍
good video. the guy is not an obnoxious know it all. did not talk for 20 minutes only to show the difference between the two
Nice bit of dovetail bolting.
What if there is a hair line crack on the inside of the crankcase.i have a stripped out head bolt on my100 cc 2 cycle mortor what can i do to save it.its a new mortor any tips
So at the end of the day which has better torque, sheer, pull strength? Also if a blind hole was deep enough could you use a timesert over a heli coil any issue with this besides cost and overkill
I've used both and preferable use time serts
Well never heard of a time sert. Been using heil coils for years. But I would like to see a cost comparison. Heli coils have got ubber expensive like everything else. I have a few kits I've paid in excess of $75.00 each, to fix one hole. But that expense was also I needed it right now rather than waiting a week or 2 for an online order. I have heli coiled head threads with no problems. Sometimes I drill out the alcoa and put in heli coils simply because over time the metal to alcoa monster growls and threads pull. And yes brake clean and red loc tite.
beautiful video !!!!!! very helpful, now to practice and use it on the work field.
Would JB weld work with time sert , i know theres more mass but wouldn't the excess be able to get threaded
I've been using Heli Coils for many years. Never had a failure - they will last. Occasionally I use Heli Coils before a thread fails when that fixing is likely to be used time and time again.
Great video.... A huge help is to drill out the threads in steps with oil on the drill, and the drill will follow the hole, and maintain the correct hole size much better than going in with just 1 drill.
Why did you not show how to setup the helix oil insert tool and insert?
I had a thread repaired in a 500 Caddy intake manifold. It holds a bolt that secures the compressor but also blocks off vacuum as well as it goes through the intake runner. Bad design in my opinion. The machinist went with the Time Sert because of the durability.
The tool for inserting the helicoil is used to remove the tang. Just twist in opposite direction. It naturally locks in place as unscrewing it expands it. It can't go anywhere. By using punch you run the risk of dislodging the bottom thread or two of the coil insert. JS 😜
Why is it that most say to hit the tang off once installed ? I thought that was how they work ? Would not allow the stud/bolt to pass it if needed ?
Helicoil instructions tell you to remove the tang, and supply a tool with their kit to remove it ! ....
Not a problem. Both ways work depending on application. It was just the way I was shown during my apprenticeship more than thirty years ago. Possibly the design has changed slightly???
There are always pros and cons - helicoils are good if the hole has good clearance but not too much and if installed properly - people always forget to drill out all the parent thread - and this can jack out the helicoil - they can skip threads if you dont pull slightly against them when carry out its installation- helicoils are prices well and robust - the cons are if the thread has hole has too much clearance the helicoil will not fix that - Time certs - industry standard / expensive - can fix a hole with larger clearance but a deep hole can present problems if there is no suitable counter bore to sop against and drilling a counter hole at the top to make it flush can also be problematic if there is an oil or water groove close by or the wall thickness is not there - so pros and cons one is no better than the other - its just that industry has leaned towards a solid insert rather than a coil - but that does not make it a better product…..!
Assuming none of those Time Sert cons are applicable, and that will be for a LOT of people at home working on their cars, Timesert is more durable and can handle far more torque. That's why it's approved by OEMs to repair engine blocks. It works in almost all cases and can be considered a permanent fix. Definitely not for the Helicoil.
Cost? What will it cost you to replace an engine block because you used a Helicoil?
@@roots4x I am inclined to disagree, just because the industry has leaned towards a particular brand - an insert of any type is only as strong as the material around it - a hole or the right pitch and clearance is necessary - I have seen time-certs fail on BMW M52 & M54 as overheating actually sinks the material between the liners and the aluminium alloy actually softens when going past a certain operating temperature (overheating) I have been doing automotive engineering for 25 years and have been using helicoils for just as long - If not installed properly they will pull especially fine pitched threads- Time Certs / WÜRTH have just priced them selves exorbitantly - Horses For Corses
If you go view several YT videos where they test torque to failure, the time certs did not do as well as the helicoil. The helicoil outlasted a grade 8 bolt...over 8,000psi. Helicoil is solid if installed properly.
Great informative vid but you really need to invest in a tap wrench rather than using a spanner to tap the holes.
Do you put locktite or some thread locker on the helicoil?
No need to use Lock Tite.
Not sure if you'll reply but I've just got onto my old bike mechanic he's gonna reppace my heli for a timesert it seems so much better especially for my situation being a hg bolt into crank case for head gasket
Why replace ?
@philippe94416 wasn't after it hadn't moved bikes rebuilt no issues
I stripped the cam chain tensioner bolt on a 2018 honda grom. What route should I take?
I would suggest timesert. I tried helicoil and it failed. Bike shop fixed me up with timesert.
Fun video, very informative. Thank you very much
Can I do heilcoil on my reeds cage ?
Ugh😪 so hard to watch him strip them on purpose... my stomach went down to my knees... I almost cried a little bit 🥺
They were sacrificed in the name of TH-cam...
Man up son
Just think of it this way: the casing gave its body to science.
It's like med students learning on a cadaver. Hopefully that part was never going to be reinstalled anywhere.
First one went in sooooo crooked
Helicoil tang will snap off by simply turning the slotted insertion tool backwards, there is a weak point designed to snap.
Are you ok?
The dealer says my rear gearbox plug threads are nonexistent and he’s going to fix it with some kind of pipe plug. I’m not mechanical but stumbled here in trying to educate myself. I want to understand the problem and be able to fix it myself if it reoccurs. How do I know what size Time-Sert to order for my ATV? I don’t even know where to start or how to search for it. Thank you for a great video!
A gearbox thread is a tapered thread. Heli-coils are straight threads so you can't use them.
I used to use helicoils on aircraft parts all the time. They are not one time use, especially if you fit them properly, I don't know who taught him but you wind the helicoil in till it bottoms out then turn it back till you break the tang
Hi. I’ve 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50 but when I put it in gear, it doesn’t move, the clutch just raise but no movement. Please help me with amending that problem.
It sounds like your pressure plate is stuffed? Insert 3/8” UNC helicoil two inches from the left of plate edge and, when complete, fair dump the clutch!
Do you sell time serts? I’ve needed a couple different sizes like your helicoil kits before.
Beach drill every time even for tapping by turning chuck by hand
Great video mate 👍 I'd advise anyone with access to a drill press to use that instead of a cordless drill. It looked like it wasn't completely square due to this method.
Agreed, and I observed the same in the video.
Unfortunately, a lot of the times I've had to do this the part was not something I could bring to the drill press (like a mount on the side of the motor), so I do my best to start slowly so I can see if the bit is cutting more on one side; then I adjust accordingly until my drill bit appears to shed chips equally on the entire perimeter of the hole.
If possible, maybe use a jig made on the drill press that you can bring to the engine, if necessary, but I've always had to just wing it.
60 years as a mechanic. Thousands of times. Zero failures. Your installation process needs a lot of help. Might be causing all of your problems.
No links to the kits?
You need specific sizes based on your application.. can't link them all
Time Sert all ways 🤟😎
Check out project farms video on these.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 yes and 10 other that say helicoil is much stronger, I've seen engine builders use them in head bolts.👍.
Time sert vs helicoil debate will never end. Both are great and the situation dictates what should be used. They act different in different material. Size, material, and use dictates what should be used. The guy you referred us to watch didn’t go into detail about this and the video you are referencing isn’t the end all be all at all.
That laugh was so diabolical lol
Where's the NS300L ?
WHAT NO LOCTITE ON THE HELICOil
Loctite’ll leak through to the inside of the coiled thread and remain in liquid form until you put the bolt in, at which time the unit locks together and becomes as one!
Great video for sure I was debating between going with a helicoil and comparison to the time sert. You've helped me make my decision I will be going with the Time-Sert.
How long do these timeserts last? Thanks again
Buen vídeo felicitaciones saludos desde Argentina 🇦🇷
I'd have made it much clearer at the beginning this wasn't going to be an actual test. The other tests I've seen place their strength & fatigue limits nearly identical.
Why did he drill first and not just Tapp and insert
Because that's the correct procedure for helicoils, and probably for time cert.
Why ?
A stripped thread is neither a known and consistent diameter nor clean metal. You need to bore to get to usable metal.
Then thread to the larger size with the right tap.
Yes you can managed to skip the drill to enlarge part, but the results will be unpredictable.....
Great video as always! 👍
Square edge punch then you use a roll pin punch
Awesome teaching skills!
Really ???
Don't mention yamaha xjr torque settings for sump pan..way to high 40nm never never never..
you must be getting board, but thax for the vid
Hole is competely crooked, so of course tap was crooked, then he used a guide tool, like that was going to help..
Crooked as heck, but a quick demo on junk parts is fine just to see how they work
Timesert or helicoil to repair stripped thread on a strut mount hole?
i dont know shit but id probably use the cutting oil to begin with thanks for the video
Project Farm beat you to this, and by an alarming amount of data presented too.
Yeah half of his videos show the most useless scenarios.
Didn't even tap it straight !! Neither one !! Unbelievable
It's called Skill.
In Aviation they only use Heli-Coil.
1:38 such an evil laugh
Meanwhile just had this happen to me during head install on my aluminum 5.3 head install and got so mad I cried. And he just does it on purpose 🙄
I just did this to my LT4 383 stroker. Intake manifold bolt. 😭
That man cant drill or tap a hole straight to save his life!
Funny i always break the threads unscrewing things, but that days something about the level off the mechanic. Thats why he shoold keep his stupid opinion to himself about helicoil. Dont listen to internet idiots like this people
this was hard to watch
And the open ended wrech on the tap, just wtf.. anyone can do this wrong, why even show this crap.
in out in out in like fuc*** just pull out or one less bikes cause babies and stuff
So much wrong with this video, please don’t use this as a “how too” more of a “how NOT too”!!!
Crooked crooked crooked
🇸🇦👌1
How NOT to use a helicoil kit !!!
Just say "NO" to Ugga, Dugga's!!!
time-serts sucks 😂😮😂😮😂😅
Heli coil is stronger and more resistant to corrosion than the other hole repair kits!
Heli Coils are made out of Stainless Steel.