Road tractor tanks have sumps too. I wonder why they don’t make them these sumps the same way so they have capacity and then you can depend on it on hills and in steep angle situations not to quit. I have stood a front end loader on end and never lost fuel to the injectors. It was a cat. They know what they’re doing. Never lost oil pressure, transmission, or hydraulic function. Unreal.
Now tell me, how in the hell is someone going to hold the clamping plate in place while you get the sump connected to it? I mean it was easy for you because your tank was cut into pieces but mine won’t be.
Damn good question. You have to carefully start your bolt and once have been able to do that, if you put downward pressure on the sump it will hold the clamp piece in place while you tighten to the oring.
There are a couple of different options on that. If you are referring to the female ones for your fuel lines, give us a call and we can steer you in the right direction. For the male ends, they seem to be a pretty common item at hydraulic shops or anywhere that carries a good assortment of fittings.
nice video , would of loved to see you do it with out cheating the install and using hands inside the tank. Since in the real world nobody is going to have a tank cut in half.
Think he would show you that because that’s what the cut out on the plate is for I don’t think he knows or he would explain that wow a company that don’t know how to install the product they sell 😂
Can I get a part number for those quick disconnect please. I can not get my FASS hose over the barb. I tried fuel, Lucas additive, oil, and even left it in the 80 degree sun. Or can I just use a hose clamp? Thanks Edit added, I finally got them on. I put the ends of the hose (about 2 inches) in boiling water for about a minute, shook it off (made sure it was dry), and used a pair of pliers to cram it on. Slipped right over the barb.
one thing i found out the other day is that beans dont work on anything anymore. they told me that they are just in manufacturing an sales. i thought the lot looked a bit too empty now days.
There should be a hole in the internal plate that matches with the drain plug hole. I am going to have to do this on my 97 f250 and it will before I install it.
The sumps can be used with all light duty applications (preferably with plastic tanks), but plumbing will be different for each different platform and situation.
FINALLY, someone who mentions where to clock the opening to on this thing. Apparently I'd initially had it installed backwards, fass would loose pressure while running and pain to prime, now I have it turned around but haven't gotten to mess with anything to test yet. Here's to hopeing the fass works right once I get to it this time.
G&R makes one with a little standpipe for the return side...wonder which is better??? Same “one bolt” design but it gets the returning fuel away from the suction port on the inner plate. Hmmm
If you have a Beans Sump do I need to modify the stock oem pump in the tank ? Or just connect the wiring harness and the Airdog pump will do it's job ? I also have the Fleece fuel filter delete to install . I just need to know if I need to modify the stock OEM pump in the tank if I have the Beans Sump and Fleece fuel filter Delete ?
here's an interesting idea,what if someone made a larger sump type bowl,that would fit right under the stock fuel module,basically letting the stock module extend further down past the bottom of the tank,would that not take care of 1/4 tank issues,plus they could still have a drain plug built in as well and ports in case some one wanted to add external line like the traditional sump use,??,,,wouldn't that make for a nice unit,dropping the tank for the install is a btter idea anyways to clean all the crap out after cutting the hole.
I bought a beans sump single entry a few months ago and the weather's been horrible so its still sitting in the box. Would you guys be willing to meet me send this one back for a price difference trade? I only bought beans because it seemed the best quality, I had actually been looking at the dual ports in other brands previous to purchase.
Having just installed one last weekend I will say it’s a very user friendly install. My only gripe is the fittings. Because of the design of being able to be used with quick connect or push to lock, even coating the inside of my supply/return lines and trying to get them to slide over the barb on the fittings was a bear. In the end they went on, but seemed way harder than it needed to be. All in all tho, great unit so far.
@thoroughbred diesel: What is your suggestion with the OE suction and return lines going to the top of tank @ the sending unit? Thanks in advance for your reply!
We leave them alone. The factory return ALWAYS stays in play, as it is the return from the injectors/CP3 pump. The feed line isn’t being used, however we usually just leave it hooked to the tank. Not hurting a thing.
@@thoroughbreddiesel on my 97 7.3 the return line is still return line. The suction line is, now the pump line from the front tank, which is sumped also. The only thing the selector is used for is the fuel gage.
i have an 01 duramax that im looking to do a sumo kit on. the prior owner had installed an airdog fuel pump/water and air separator. when i put the sump in what should i do with the remaining lines off the sending unit on top the tank. thanks ahead of time!
Wade, I plan to have a second fuel tank on my truck. Can I use the return port on this sump to fill the tank? I would pump the fuel from the second tank to the main tank as needed using my factory fuel gauge in the truck.
@@theshadetreewelder3523- My extra tank sits in the rear where the spare tire would hang. I don't carry a spare so planning to use the area for another tank. It would be nice to pump directly to this sump as the hole is already there. I will continue to use my stock system in the tank for guage fuel amounts and return from the injector pump. My year is ;99 dually.
David Darrow a filler neck that ethers fills through a hole in the bed or is Accessible through the wheel well ,although you could run a pump that pulls fuel to the secondary and then refill the main, but I wouldn’t run the return to the secondary as it would take quite a while, something you could do is cut a hole on the back side of the bed and put a filler door ,neck etc. uhhh oh do you have a flat or a special purpose bed
@@theshadetreewelder3523 - Do you mean it is best to run the fuel line from the extra tank directly intothe filler neck of the factory fill tube? A "Y" inserted into the fill hose would likely be a better deal than using this Bean Sump drain connection. Agree?
David Darrow Well to fill it up yeah you could split The filler neck to fill both of them but the beans sump is made to pull fuel out of your tank to feed your engine and the fuel line coming from the secondary would be straight to your main tank preferably to the top and what you could do is have it flow through the factory return with the beans sump feeding the engine
Love the video but I feel like I can hear your breakfast digesting! Lol that mic I’m sure the mic works fine like a phone mic up to 2ft away from source! Anyways why all the bad word bout beans? I’m sticking with FASS myself but seams they where ruling it not long ago!
How did you set up your fuel system. On mine I used a sump to feed the second tank to the main through the return port on the main tank sump and the engine return goes to the top of the main sending unit .
How do sumps work on a hill?
Short answer, be diligent about filling your truck up. Try not to let it get below a quarter of a tank.
@@thoroughbreddiesel any way to get rid of the 1/4 tank dead spot?
Road tractor tanks have sumps too. I wonder why they don’t make them these sumps the same way so they have capacity and then you can depend on it on hills and in steep angle situations not to quit. I have stood a front end loader on end and never lost fuel to the injectors. It was a cat. They know what they’re doing. Never lost oil pressure, transmission, or hydraulic function. Unreal.
Depends on if you're going UP or DOWN the Hill.
Isn’t that also an issue with regular pickup tubes?
Now tell me, how in the hell is someone going to hold the clamping plate in place while you get the sump connected to it? I mean it was easy for you because your tank was cut into pieces but mine won’t be.
Damn good question. You have to carefully start your bolt and once have been able to do that, if you put downward pressure on the sump it will hold the clamp piece in place while you tighten to the oring.
SO I HAVE TO CUT THE TANK IN HALF IN ORDER TO GET MY HANDS IN THE FOR EASY INSTALLATION?
It's aggressive but it sure does make the install easier!
Do you leave the old fuel unit in there
Yes
Run the bit in before attaching the hole saw
So you need to drop the tank so you know how the inside plate is oriented when tightening.
how tight? Just tight enough it doesnt leak. idk why everyone gotta crank the hell out of the oil filter
For the sump, the correct torque is 22 ft. lbs.
With the return by the suction would it cause cavitation from warm fuel.
How would you do that if you did not drop the tank, how would you hold the backing plate in place to start your bolt
Where can I find the push lock fittings for the quick connectors
There are a couple of different options on that. If you are referring to the female ones for your fuel lines, give us a call and we can steer you in the right direction. For the male ends, they seem to be a pretty common item at hydraulic shops or anywhere that carries a good assortment of fittings.
nice video , would of loved to see you do it with out cheating the install and using hands inside the tank. Since in the real world nobody is going to have a tank cut in half.
Think he would show you that because that’s what the cut out on the plate is for I don’t think he knows or he would explain that wow a company that don’t know how to install the product they sell 😂
You should show us how to instal it without using your hand inside the tank as it should be on a real tank. Thank you
Those videos already exist. We tried to do something different
Can anyone tell me if these sumps are legal
They are not illegal.
Running the drill in reverse.
Ha he also has the drill on HAMMER
Thats what I was thinking too. Lol..
So if I install this bean sump I don't have to cut the filler neck?
Can I get a part number for those quick disconnect please. I can not get my FASS hose over the barb. I tried fuel, Lucas additive, oil, and even left it in the 80 degree sun. Or can I just use a hose clamp? Thanks
Edit added, I finally got them on. I put the ends of the hose (about 2 inches) in boiling water for about a minute, shook it off (made sure it was dry), and used a pair of pliers to cram it on. Slipped right over the barb.
Just installed this sump but my drain plug is leaking what should I do
Don’t just tighten it down to stop. Pull the plug out, add some thread tape and reinstall.
Can this be used on my metal tank?
These sumps are designed for plastic tanks and have been tested on plastic tanks, however they are o ring sealed.
Did you ever find one that worked on your metal tank? Looking to install one on my rv.
Sounds like your in hammer drill????🤯
one thing i found out the other day is that beans dont work on anything anymore. they told me that they are just in manufacturing an sales. i thought the lot looked a bit too empty now days.
$182.99. Looks nice, thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
There should be a hole in the internal plate that matches with the drain plug hole. I am going to have to do this on my 97 f250 and it will before I install it.
Oooh good eye! Ill have to do the same
Could it be used with a stock pump that is located on the frame rail?
The sumps can be used with all light duty applications (preferably with plastic tanks), but plumbing will be different for each different platform and situation.
one word about using that as a return port: aeration.
Combatinho that’s exactly what I was thinking
Exactly...that’s why G&R uses a stand pipe to direct the returning fuel away from the supply inlet
Sounds like some Eric O. would come up with "....Gonna give her full beans..."
FINALLY, someone who mentions where to clock the opening to on this thing. Apparently I'd initially had it installed backwards, fass would loose pressure while running and pain to prime, now I have it turned around but haven't gotten to mess with anything to test yet. Here's to hopeing the fass works right once I get to it this time.
They want 200$ for this......
They are a nice product and the reviews on our site speak volumes.
They have cheaper ones BUT U GET WHAT U PAY FOR...
What is better Fass or airdog for reliability
G&R makes one with a little standpipe for the return side...wonder which is better??? Same “one bolt” design but it gets the returning fuel away from the suction port on the inner plate. Hmmm
Fain Hank is go with G&R....I know I will if or when I change out my original Beans
My observation also. Seems like keeping the warm/hot/aerated fuel return away from the intake port is a good idea.
No fuel strainer like on the OEM?
If you have a Beans Sump do I need to modify the stock oem pump in the
tank ? Or just connect the wiring harness and the Airdog pump will do
it's job ? I also have the Fleece fuel filter delete to install . I just
need to know if I need to modify the stock OEM pump in the tank if I
have the Beans Sump and Fleece fuel filter Delete ?
Can you do a in depth video on a full egr delete on a lml? I can’t seem to find any videos on them.
Agree!!!!
Man I wish I worked there. I would be broke but my truck would be done lol
here's an interesting idea,what if someone made a larger sump type bowl,that would fit right under the stock fuel module,basically letting the stock module extend further down past the bottom of the tank,would that not take care of 1/4 tank issues,plus they could still have a drain plug built in as well and ports in case some one wanted to add external line like the traditional sump use,??,,,wouldn't that make for a nice unit,dropping the tank for the install is a btter idea anyways to clean all the crap out after cutting the hole.
I bought a beans sump single entry a few months ago and the weather's been horrible so its still sitting in the box. Would you guys be willing to meet me send this one back for a price difference trade? I only bought beans because it seemed the best quality, I had actually been looking at the dual ports in other brands previous to purchase.
Give us a call and let us see what we can do to help.
Having just installed one last weekend I will say it’s a very user friendly install. My only gripe is the fittings. Because of the design of being able to be used with quick connect or push to lock, even coating the inside of my supply/return lines and trying to get them to slide over the barb on the fittings was a bear. In the end they went on, but seemed way harder than it needed to be. All in all tho, great unit so far.
I agree those fittings are a bear. Hoping when it warms up to get them on a little more.
@@racewazes3002 p
Diana: "Hey my truck wont start"
TD: "Oh yea we borrowed your fuel tank"
looks like a great way to pick up all of the water and sediment
TrEv- daWG that’s what fuel filters are for
Running mine for 7 years, not one problem.
@thoroughbred diesel:
What is your suggestion with the OE suction and return lines going to the top of tank @ the sending unit? Thanks in advance for your reply!
We leave them alone. The factory return ALWAYS stays in play, as it is the return from the injectors/CP3 pump. The feed line isn’t being used, however we usually just leave it hooked to the tank. Not hurting a thing.
@@thoroughbreddiesel on my 97 7.3 the return line is still return line. The suction line is, now the pump line from the front tank, which is sumped also. The only thing the selector is used for is the fuel gage.
What is the purpose of the sump pump?
i have an 01 duramax that im looking to do a sumo kit on. the prior owner had installed an airdog fuel pump/water and air separator. when i put the sump in what should i do with the remaining lines off the sending unit on top the tank. thanks ahead of time!
Wade, I plan to have a second fuel tank on my truck. Can I use the return port on this sump to fill the tank? I would pump the fuel from the second tank to the main tank as needed using my factory fuel gauge in the truck.
just leave the return line in the main tank and does it sit in the bed or is it underneath the body like the main is
@@theshadetreewelder3523- My extra tank sits in the rear where the spare tire would hang. I don't carry a spare so planning to use the area for another tank. It would be nice to pump directly to this sump as the hole is already there. I will continue to use my stock system in the tank for guage fuel amounts and return from the injector pump. My year is ;99 dually.
David Darrow a filler neck that ethers fills through a hole in the bed or is Accessible through the wheel well ,although you could run a pump that pulls fuel to the secondary and then refill the main, but I wouldn’t run the return to the secondary as it would take quite a while, something you could do is cut a hole on the back side of the bed and put a filler door ,neck etc. uhhh oh do you have a flat or a special purpose bed
@@theshadetreewelder3523 - Do you mean it is best to run the fuel line from the extra tank directly intothe filler neck of the factory fill tube? A "Y" inserted into the fill hose would likely be a better deal than using this Bean Sump drain connection. Agree?
David Darrow Well to fill it up yeah you could split The filler neck to fill both of them but the beans sump is made to pull fuel out of your tank to feed your engine and the fuel line coming from the secondary would be straight to your main tank preferably to the top and what you could do is have it flow through the factory return with the beans sump feeding the engine
Imma gonna pick in ya for wearing 🤓
I knew it was coming.
Thoroughbred Diesel seems everyone just asking questions 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Safety first!
Love the video but I feel like I can hear your breakfast digesting! Lol that mic I’m sure the mic works fine like a phone mic up to 2ft away from source! Anyways why all the bad word bout beans? I’m sticking with FASS myself but seams they where ruling it not long ago!
How mush does it cost
Hey Peter prices change and vary all the time. Links to the products can always be found int he description.
I have the 1 port with air dog, I wish the 2 port had been out when I did my suburban diesel conversion. Great product tho no issues.
How did you set up your fuel system. On mine I used a sump to feed the second tank to the main through the return port on the main tank sump and the engine return goes to the top of the main sending unit .
@@romarazumovsky9002 put sump on primary tank got programming to use the sending unit from the secondary to the primary tank.
Good video. But in my opinion stick with Fass sump . Way better, more bolts yes , even torque zero leaks . Fass is the only way !!!