11 7.3 POWERSTROKE ISSUES STOP IN AND SEE COMMON FAULTS.........
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- 11 COMMON PROBLEMS AND HIGHEST PROBABLE FIXES ON THE 7.3 POWERSTROKE
🛻🚚🚨🛑🚧SEE MY VIDEO LIBRARY IN THIS DESCRIPTION BELOW 🧰🩸🩸🔐⛔🔴🟡🟢
7.3 POWERSTROKE SENSORS ALL SENSORS EXPLAINED
CUSTOM WORKS TECH VIDEO'S
• CUSTOM WORKS TECH VIDEO'S
7.3 TECH TALK
• 7.3 TECH TALK
CUSTOM WORKS HANDS ON
• CUSTOM WORKS HANDS ON
7.3 PSD CCV MOD FINALLY DEBUNKED
• 7.3 PSD CCV MOD FINALL...
7.3 POWERSTROKE PROPER PROCEDURE WHEN REMOVING INJECTORS OR CUPS TO EASILY START
• 7.3 POWERSTROKE PROPER...
7.3 POWERSTROKE COMMON AND RARE OIL LEAKS IN VALLEY...........
• 7.3 POWERSTROKE COMMON...
7.3 POWERSTROKE BASIC DIAGNOSIS WHERE TO START WHAT TO CHECK
• 7.3 POWERSTROKE BASIC...
7.3 POWER STROKE O RING NO LEAK TRICK.....................
• 7.3 POWER STROKE O RIN...
7.3 POWERSTROKE HPOP OIL CHANGE FINALLY DEBUNKED SEE WHY YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME ................
• 7.3 POWERSTROKE HPOP O...
#customworks
#7.3powerstroke
#7.3psd
#vgg
#visegripgarage
#eddchina
#savagescotty
#powerstrokehelp - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
03:20 my elderly neighbor has a 2003 Town Car that he got new, he's a WWII vet, and his Town Car has 400,000 miles and started overheating. The Ford dealer put a new thermostat in it, new radiator cooling fan, new water pump, and all new hoses and a belt with a new tensioner. Then it was still overheating. I looked down between the radiator and the AC condenser and it was completely covered in road grim and debris. I cleaned it and and it has never overheated again.
Great video!!
I have a better one than that! I had a ship mate in the Navy with a Ford station wagon he got from his grandfather. It stopped running and he managed to get it into a parking lot. I checked it out and found the camshaft had broken. While pulling the front end down I noticed the flex fan had been installed backwards, from the factory! I asked if he had cooling problems, and he said not really but the AC never worked right. I guess some things are just too technical... ;-)
Change the oil every 3 to 5 thousand. Get a white rodgers/stancor glow plug relay. a Donaldson blue oil filter, change the fuel filter every oil change with motocraft and air filters every 10 to 20. Pump the oil out of the high pressure box every oil change. Delete the ebpv valve and get a non solenoid pedestal. delete the air intake heater and get the high pressure oil crossover and fuel rail cross over. update the fuel manifold spring. Get a full exhaust wrap the manifolds up pipe collector turbine housing and downpipe with exhaust wrap. Change the exhaust back pressure tube and sensor. Upgrade your grounds from the alternator to the chassis battery to chassis frame to chassis run a wire from the alternator to the second battery with a 250 amp inline fuse. Get a voltmeter so you can wait unit the glow plug relay completely cycles off before you start your truck. Use hot shots stiction eliminator in the high pressure box when you pump it out. I use a hollowed out writing pen to stick down in there when I pump it out and it pulls about 17 ounces out. Use hotshots edt every fuel up it raises the cetane level and cleans and lubes your fuel system. Change the transmission oil every 25k with oem filter. Also Get a external transmission filter to suppliment. Get a coolant filter. Change the coolant out with elc. Rotate the tires every 10k keep up on the shocks ball joints swaybar bushings tie rods. Grease all the points on front end regularly. Grease your u joints. Change the rear differential fluid.
Right
Right
3 to 5 thousand for oil change? I don't know about the newer ones but the old 7.3 took like 15 quarts which sounds expensive.
I know all trucks have their problems. But That's a lot of shit to have to do...
Should I clean the windshield? I can barely see out of it but I don’t see that on the list of things to do…
This guy is like a calm scotty Kilmer! Haha. Love it!
Great videos. I bought a 7.3 1995 a few weeks ago and navigating the things that have arisen has been much easier thanks to you!
I purchased a 2002 Ford E450 7.3L diesel shuttle bus that I'm converting to an RV. This video gives me great information on some preventive maintenance I need to do. Thanks!
For the 7.3 owners out there, if your coolant temp creeps up while towing up a grade, and or fan comes on and off rapidly, mine was fixed by installing a new beltt tensioner from Ford. Takes a lot of force to turn the fan and if belt tension is loose, she will slip. Very happy now after replacing. Fan comes on and off very firmly now, and coolant tempting just below half even after long grade pulls.
Thanks brother!
Nice tip
Yes... My Wife is Committed to Burying me in my F-250 7.3 🤣😂😀😎 After 35 years of marriage I've broken a ton of parts but Never her Heart!
'Hey Honey, I'm on the Riff Raff site, again' :)
The one thing he did not mention is get rid of the stock starter and get a High Torque starter, it absolutely is like night and day, In cold weather if you can crank it faster it starts much easier, the one i got LITERALLY cranks three times as fast as the stock starter, We had a minus 20 night and i was not able to plug in my block heater, I cycled the glow plugs and cranked it and it started before I could count to three, They are not that expensive, I paid $160 for mine, ITS WORTH IT!!!!
^^^^^^ that shit is gospel right there. Spend the extra money and get the Denso unit and stay away from the DB and other knockoffs
XJ sitting in the garage at the end, this dude has good taste in vehicles
Thank You very Much For Posting this....Yah, sounds like a jet plane. Looks like I have some work to do on my 2001. First time I have seen anyone speak of that issue despite much searching and oil impregnated wiring issues which are the bane of my existence. The GEM module is confounding as well. Thank you
Thanks for the info, I always tell my wife that my 2001 7.3 is my lifetime truck. Look forward to your battery video.
Coming soon!
In April 2022 I will have owned my f350 7.3 for 20 years. 348k miles-
@@jonwcs5842 what year and any issues
I say my 7.3 us my coffin, should outlast me
Say the same
I'm really glad I found your channel just got a 2001 e450 box truck with the 7.3 diesel 150000 miles. It was a mobile dentist vehicle and records came with and it was maintained. Im auto body guy/ semi mechanic. Gonna use your channel to keep this running! Thanks!
Do a video sometime and I will try I have a 01 e350 7.3 box truck too w a generator
Really good info
I was a mastertech @ ford for 15 yrs I am a master on the 7.3 alone when you clean the radiator clean the air to air also if its clogged it will raise intake Temps and it's right there you already got pressure washer out
Few other things to consider
Change the oil in heui system from the top
Put a upgraded fuel filter water separator on it from say Fass or Donaldson
Better radatior from say mishmoto a 4 core all aluminum
Proper maintenance and care these engines will go million miles before a rebuild
Got a question for you then. Mine quit the other day and I’ve noticed my programmer won’t come on with key on or my wait ti start light when you turn it over you cannot hear the injectors working. Pcm has power have yet to check the idm I’m suspecting it may be that any other tips? Could it be the key switch? The day be for it would not start it did start losing power like I was losing a gaining injectors until it got to operating temp the it was fine until I parked it then next day no start
@@bryanbeane7328 I would start at Idm check powers and ground for your truck also check in column I've seen wires wear threw there especially if it's tilt if you suspect the key look up a key wiring diagram and use jumpers to bypass it at the module different years different colors its about 4 wires the ones that say hot in run but just the way your saying it was running my money is on idm
Check lift pump pressure. I drove mine a year or two with low pressure. I’m pretty light footed but if I ran the programmer on 3 it would kick out low fuel pressure code. It would idle a little strange here and there and was not a beast almost stock. Then it started to make loud injected noise and kicked a low fuel code with it at idle. I got on the freeway and it started to die soon 50 mph was it. It shook like she was coming apart at the seems. It didn’t make it off the freeway and got a ride on the flatbed. Got it home and #19 fuse was blown. That is the lift pump fuse. Put in a new one and nothing. Pump made no noise key on. New Motorcraft lift pump installed (on rail)and she is like a new truck! Loves #3 on the tuner. My mechanic says they (pump) will make lots of fuel volume, but have to have pressure too.
Can I message you? I’m willing to pay you for a quick talk about my truck. I just bought her and was taken good care of. Sudden oil in coolant
@Paulyd81 what motor what we talking
Absolutely love the humble 7.3! Over the years, the points you highlight in this brief video couldn't be more prescient. Been spinning wrenches over 35 years, and I have to chime in on one important point with the 7.3. There is no substitute for a proper scan tool.
Usually, I'm tasked with the weird intermittent issues that have had parts thrown at the problem. The biggest issue with this is to NEVER assume that, just because a part was replaced, it can be ruled out. "Oh, that's been changed" can lead you down the wrong path.
Equally important is maintenance. Take care of this workhorse! Yes, it costs money up front, but think about what happens when she quits at the wrong moment.
As an ex heavy equip mechanic I check oil every day, If I didnt I would get fired so it stuck with me after the job ended thankfully
Hahaha I was too, however management didn’t want to show up at 4am to see if I was checking the oil everyday 🤣 always have just shined a flashlight underneath to check for leaks, and I would check the oil once a week.
Glad I found your channel. Using your knowledge and advice and that of a few other great channels I've found, I'm about to pull mine and rebuild it myself. Haven't done any serious mechanic work in many years but I'm damn sure gonna do this. Can't afford the 12-15k for the rebuild I want via a specialized outfit and don't trust the motors coming from the 4-7K rebuilders based on everything I've read. I'd rather put this thing on a stand in my garage and do it myself and do everything the way I want it and give it the attention to detail. Fortunately I have another truck to do my pulling with in the meantime.
Well I jinxed myself doting on my great luck with my 7.3 over the last 25 yrs. It started with the radiator splitting the top tank on the casting line, 2 days later the water pump let go followed by the alternator pulsating from normal to pegged then the old girl just quit as though turning off the key, after 5 minutes or so it would start and run normally for 5 to 10 minutes and quit again. I found the pigtail going into the IPR valve was shorted and had melted the connector so I replaced the whole thing valve and pigtail, no change, started right up ran about 35 minutes in the driveway and shut off. I assumed a computer can`t handle the power requirements of a solenoid so there has to be some sort of relay in there. I can`t afford to throw parts at it so I had it scanned and it said IDM. (Injector Driver Module). $300! I hope this is the end, it sounds like the fix according to the customer comments that were on the scanner. Didn`t expect comments, recon that`s the difference between a $200 scanner and a $3000 scanner............so once more unto the breech I go.
Got 11 years on the factory Motorcraft batteries in our 2011 6.7.
Got rid of it and went back to the 7.3.
My 1st truck with the 7.3 PS was a cab and chassis dually 4wd, bought it in the fall of 1994
Mechanic with a pipeline outfit, had a service body put on, loaded it with tools, welder, air compressor, and towed my 33 ft travel trailer with from job to job.
It was a strong puller.
I
nice vid!! ive had nothing with of this on my 2000 F250! except the fuel tank filter failure! I tell everyone every 8 years
Really good video walkthrough. I've had my 7.3 Excursion for three years now and am on CPS #4. Currently engine intermittently surging and dying at low RPM. I have one of the black CPS's in my glove box since the original purchase.
Should I throw the black OEM one in since the grey and purple ones seem to be pretty unreliable?
The white image in the thumbnail is NOT a 7.3 powerstroke. It is a 7.3 IDI. Big difference.
I almost never comment on anything on the internet. But from watching a few of your videos I really feel that you are more than capable of providing great knowledge and your wording is also very helpful for someone like me. I have just started rebuilding a one of one 1996 F350 CCLB dually and have been searching for all the info I can gather before spring hits and I hit the ground running rebuilding her. I want to try to keep it as much as the original conversion company did with obviously upgrading under the hood as much and a little bit suspension as well. I would like to try to keep it with the original stock rims and such as well. Maybe a little bit bigger tires and maybe a little bit of a stance. You get the picture. Anyways what I'm basically getting at is that I'm not the best with these internets and was hoping I could touch base with you more on a one-on-one or personal level if you would. I'm not really big on this new age New world communication. I could definitely use like a big brother scenario on moving forward on my truck. I don't need anybody to build it for me or anything done like that but I definitely could use some assistance or opinions from time to time! I really appreciate the part where you highly advised against a certain product in the vehicle. It goes to show that you have done more than just read a book!
I'm not sure how I could touch base more with you without leaving my personal info on here so I'm more or less just going to wait to see if you even reply to this comment.. best of luck to you and yours
Great info! Your videos are very helpful
The diagram used as the thumbnail is a mechanically injected 7.3l IDI which shares only the bellhousing and displacement of the 7.3l PS
I came here to say this
Exactly. Torn down my share of IDI engines and I have almost memorized the shop manual for those engines.
It definitely not a powerstroke
This kats laugh, when ur trucks broke down... after this addictive he's pushing! Makes me wanna scratch my 👀out & feel ill! Other than that, he's simply amazing 👏 & wonderful 👏
Thanks , you are very informative on the 7.3 to me. I've always been a big cat guy and got myself a beautiful 2000 f250 7.3. I love this thing.
Very informative, thank you
Regular maintenance, IE engine fluid changes. Oil testing is also a very good idea. I would also recommend that any time you service the radiator, change out the thermostat with the real deal OEM stat,
Ive defense leaned something today. From you a nd your followers. This is the first diesel ive owned.
Thanks for the quick review and some really good suggestion. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Bought my 7.3 new in 03 good stuff
Thanks
I was a lead mechanic for Weyerhaeuser for about 20 years (80’s and 90’s) we were Ford authorized warranty. We ran oil analysts on everything. I noticed that the 7.3s were coming back with high iron content. So started tracking them. They continued to gain iron. So I contacted Ford. At first they didn’t want to acknowledge that anything was going on but after persistent hounding I got them to admit they knew there was a manufacturing issue. Turned out the casting was too thin on number 8 cylinder and it would create hot spots on the cylinder wall so every time the piston went by these spots it scraped a little iron off. They said they didn’t plan on doing anything about the issue unless they did’t make it past warranty!🙄
It is always interesting what auto mfg industry sweeps under the rug on the unsuspecting consumer
Thank you for this great information and video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing. You are appreciated.
I appreciate that!
It’s camping season and so is watching 7.3 repair videos lol. I’ve been watching 7.3 videos for years so I can have tricks in up my sleeve incase I’m sidelined on the road (which has happened a few times over 1000 miles away from home). You’ve made some great points that I’ve haven’t heard of before and I will be looking forward to your videos in the future.
overall is this ending a good one for a school bus conversion? My friend wants to buy but has zero experience with Diesel engines. Has 73k and new Allison transmission. 5k hours.
I’m interested in the fuel tank sump update you talked bout in tank please let me know thanks..
I own a 7.3 and this is a really good information 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great Content!
Thankyou
Excellent 😊
Great video.! Thank you. My 2000 7.3 has no power at take off however I manage to get to 60 mph steady no pry then I come to a stop ot light. And tuck feels rough. Changed the fuel filter and nothing. It even stalls when on nutral. Engine has 250k miles. Any suggestions gang???
Thanks for this great channel. I heard what you said about being sure to use matching batteries. Did you ever make a video about the particular battery you have used with such good longevity? I'm unable to find it if you did so. Thanks again and keep on truckin'.
www.odysseybattery.com/products/odx-agm65-battery-65-pc1750t/ th-cam.com/video/dLhGUtMVavo/w-d-xo.html
I have a Kiwi Bluetooth OBDII scanner. works great and with the Car Gauge Pro app and I can run Buzz, KOEO, and KOER tests. Saved me from buying a hot mess a couple months ago.
Great video thanks!
I watch all your videos, learned, completed much of what you shared and am proud to own my 3rd 7.3 Now have an almost new inside and out 2001 F250 which I plan to keep forever. Could you now recommend a better code reader that you spoke of regarding being an upgrade from the typical basic P_code reader. Thanks again for all you do.
Thank you so much. Also, love all the comments.
Great vid thanks ! More 7.3 partic 1997 dusky
I use Forscan and my laptop with a high speed USB adapter and I also have iCarsoft Pro which actually showed my IAT code that wasn’t showing with Forscan.
I was able to do all the main tests like cylinder contribution with Forscan
Your videos are great, I have recently have an issue with either cold or hot start the engine will surge until I lightly Rev the pedal a few times. Do you have an idea to check. Thanks
That problem should have the codes read, Multiple Items could be causing that issue
Thanks, great info. I'm a new guy to the 7.3. At time stamp 15:00 you say you have a dedicated scanner specifically for the 7.3. Can you tell me what the brand or name is. I don't want to buy one that is all cluttered up with, say, Subaru or Jeep software.
Hi, What’s is the best 5 spd transmission oil for an 89 f250? Thanks!
Do you know if the 98' and 99' wiring harness and IDM are the same besides the intake heater and solenoid?
About the oil cooler. Is it possible to mount a remote oil cooler, like a oil cooler radiator on this engine?
What type of scanner is recommended only for 7.3 L trucks ? Hard to read what type it is in the video.
5:10 nice cavitation on the aluminum cover
Very informative video. I hope you can solve my problem. I have a 96 F-350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke turbo. I recently put in two new fuel tanks and everything else that was needed to repair that issue. However, now when I drive my truck the transmission goes into overdrive out of nowhere. Do I need a new transmission or do you have any idea what I can do to fix this. Thanks in advance for your reply and help.
You got bypassed because you didn't heap on any praise along with your question...lol
If you are in a cold weather state, it is a common thing to have older vehicles transmissions fail...what you are stating is pretty much how that happens... and also the overdrive can fail first and not stay in that gear...
( I had two go that route...good luck to you)
Thanks for the info
great video, thanks
Great video! What is that code reader that you use? Where can it be bought? Thanks!
doing a stand alone video on this topic, My reader was custom made and the company went in late 2020 to bad hey
My 99 7.3 has been smoking a lot while driving and accelerating, smoke looks more blueish, my oil level has been full for the last month, but truck is very sputtery during accelerating, check engine light will come on while acceleration.
I have changed map sensor, exhaust back pressure sensor an cleaned tube, icp, ipr, an cleaned the in tank filter screens. It’s got slightly better but still smokes.
Any suggestions? injector o rings?
This was a great video. Thank you for making it.
Please can you tell us where to get some of these parts eg. wire harness
riff raff diesel has a great selection
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you very much this is very helpful I really appreciate it
Thank you sir I've been having issues with it wanting to start and it seems to keep leaking down getting ready to redo the top end again and I thought I'd Refresh on where to look through on things it's been a while since I played with a 7-3 thank you for your knowledge happy New Year and merry Christmas God bless you and your family
I have built a really nice library if you hit my video list or
7.3 SENSOR VIDEO PLAY LIST
th-cam.com/play/PLDuGIE.html...
7.3 POWERSTROKE TECH TALK PLAY LIST
th-cam.com/users/playlist?list...
7.3 POWERSTROKE HANDS ON PLAYLIST
th-cam.com/users/playlist?list...
7.3 POWERSTROKE TECH VIDEOS AND DEBUNKING PLAYLIST
th-cam.com/users/playlist?list...
7.3 PSD HOT NO START
th-cam.com/video/ZJ5BSBntTzA/w-d-xo.html
7.3 PSD CCV MOD FINALLY DEBUNKED
th-cam.com/video/QwzC8g-0o6E/w-d-xo.html
11 7.3 POWERSTROKE ISSUES STOP IN AND SEE COMMON FAULTS.........
th-cam.com/video/8nekSyMxI-k/w-d-xo.html
7.3 POWERSTROKE HPOP OIL CHANGE FINALLY DEBUNKED SEE WHY YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME ................
th-cam.com/video/JUUZaqP4iKM/w-d-xo.html
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you sir
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD PS very informative video well done gives you the issue points to check out have to put you at top of ratings better than the others I've seen thank you
Great video! I will say, as far as Bluetooth code readers, "Blue Driver" brand IS NOT compatible with 7.3. I plugged mine in to diagnose a crank no start and it said remove immediately, may cause damage to PCM.
Just so nobody buys that brand for their 7.3
Thanks for the info!
Use an app called FORScan lite and buy I think it’s called vlinker something on Amazon, amazing app can run all types of tests including buzz tests
Thank you.
Love this channel 🙌
I appreciate that!
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD U know your shit guy... We appreciate you,, the knowledge you have deserves nothing but respect. Thank you for sharing your professionalism to dipshits like myself lol 😆
Love watching your 7.3 videos but waiting for a injector video on it because I've got injectors knocking so i need help lol 😆
Coming soon!
Cool
Check your wide open lift pump pressure(frame pump)If it’s stock it’s probably time.
Thanks 👍
i cant get it back in , im getting the angle on the extension right but it’s not wanting to thread , any tips ? tried everything even a small bent alan key to fit the inner square . nothing .
Thank you
Hey, well done - a lot of info in your video, and I learned a lot watching it. However, watching it was much like scanning the front index of a good book... I was left wanting to know more! Since you obviously have in-depth knowledge on the 7.3, may I humbly suggest that you'd expand on some of your points, perhaps a separate video for the ones that you will find people querying in the comments? For me, I'd like to hear more about the accelerator pedal problem... what specifically is the issue with it and how does it present itself? Also, I appreciate you don't want to knock down or "endorse" any specific brand of engine code readers, but what is wrong with the little "Walmart" code readers, and what unit is the one you are using? Overall a top-notch video!
Thats the game plan I'm goin to see the comments over the next month then hit on exact info in separate videos
I had intermittent failure of the accelerator pedal, usually seemed to happen dropping out of cruise control. Unnerving to be driving and press the accelerator pedal and nothing would happen, then it would recover usually after a short interval, sometimes I had to stop and cycle the ignition. Seemed to be an intermittent dead spot at 0 pedal pressure, the reason that the failure was seemingly more common dropping out of cruise, don't know why it lingered sometimes and sometimes resumed after a bit. After a few instances finally noticed the check engine light (which went out when unit was working again, just to confuse the issue. When the accelerator stops working in traffic one doesn't have time to notice minor details like a check engine light). The original accelerator pedals are much stiffer than the replacements, the replacements are like F150 pedals, not stiff like F350/F250. Took a while to get used to the very light pressure the new pedal needed, especially when wearing boots. IIRC if one is ambitious and wants to take the risk, the sensor can be replaced by drilling out rivets to keep the old pedal mechanicals. I went with replacement "feather light pressure" Ford OE and the replacement bracket. Easy job, took much longer to determine the actual Ford PNs needed; lots of aftermarket available that are not rated as reliable as OE based on numerous complaints. Rather pay more to get more reliability and longevity.
what scanner are you using, the dedicated one?
My 1999 From NEW Never Back To Shop Or A Dealer ALL Service By Me & Son 300k+ Done Lot's Of The Work & Parts & You Said & More ! Gear Vender Over Drive & All The Gale Banks
Did a lot of these fixes. Now I'm going to pull the motor and change the head gaskets.
I love the 7.3..
Clint do you have a video that covers the IDM
Good stuff!
Awesome video sir
Need help! 2002 350 7.3 I have replaced, fuel injectors, glow plugs, glow plug relay, low pressure oil pump and oil pressure temperature sensor. Truck is still hard to start in morning and smokes terribly. Can you help me?
What about putting a qt of Lucas oil treatment in the engine?
thanks
You forgot a big one under jerking and surging. Valve cover gaskets! They can cause some very strange problems, but all around very simple and easy to change.
I watched "project farms" review of AT205 and got some hoping it would get me through the winter with my oil cooler o-ring leak. Pause for your laughter...... Anyway, I followed the recommended usage of 1 bottle per 6 quarts of oil. The leak didn't stop but improved. Then I saw this video yesterday and immediately dumped my coolant and engine oil and changed the oil cooler O-rings. I maybe put 2 miles on the truck with the AT205 in it. Anything I can do to prevent seal harm?
Why on all my 7.3 trucks over time I have to connect my trucks to keep it heated so that it will turn on in the morning. Even when it's hot out🤷♂️please help thanks
My 1997 F250 diesel has been a pretty good truck, I still have it and I can`t talk myself into getting a new one. It runs flawlessly, I bought it new 25yrs ago and I think it`s part of my life now. Other than normal maintenance I`ve had a torque converter and water pump failure (repaired warrantee) two lift pumps, a set of glow plugs, one alternator, A/C compressor and a starter. I was able to fix it myself and it wasn`t that expensive so I can`t really complain other than it looks terrible, it was a work truck for many years. Everything still works except the dome light, works when ya open the door but not if you try to turn it on manually. Same way with my1986 F250. Oh yes the front end, ball joints, drag link, tie rod ends and U-joints on the half shafts
Keep it. They dont make em like they used to. Im a ford fleet tech and im biased because i mostly only see the broken ones, but i just bought a 7.3 econoline and i wouldnt buy a new truck to replace it
11 years on the same batteries!? Holy moly. I'm lucky to squeak by with two before I see a decline. It's 100% due to short driving, possibly a small parasitic draw somewhere that hasn't gotten bad enough for me to fix. I've got a new battery cable set just have to get it on there. Will be looking for that battery video next!
Put a trickle charger on them regularly
Wonderful
I was warming up my 95 7.3 and it just died. Crank no start. I lost power to the IDM and the relay fir it and the GP solenoid were going crazy clicking. So I checked the wiring harness and the IDM but traced it back to the PCM and one of the grounding mosfets had a missing leg and corrosion creeping up the legs. Ordered replacement chips and fixed my problem. Ships wanted 1000$ for a new pcm. I fixed mine for 6$ and some soldering.
Brother I don’t even know where to begin saying thanks first I was just , just about to put the AT-205 in my 7.3 I had been looking and looking for information on the use of it with the 7.3 so thank you for saving my rookie A:& haha also I have been having problems with my truck about six months ago I had replaced my fuel relay switch inside the dash just below the stereo and I just did it again but this time it didn’t fix the issue so I looked and listened to the pump under my drivers side that seems to be turning on but still sounds like I’m not getting fuel so again thanks for the tips on the fuel system I’m trying to research putting a sump just have to find a good rated one also if you can answer a question for me do I need to remove the guts of the original one the straw feed or can it stay I do plan on dropping the tank to clean it out I figured I’d just do myself and the truck a favor and clean it out but thanks again and I so hope you keep putting out info
David
have a video on sumps and any one is just fine but see the sump video
HELP!!!!
Great video...thank you it helped a lot...
I took off the I.c.p. to check hpop pressure...3 second crank and it just oozes...but the truck will run🤦...i don't understand...it chugs at idle....new ipr valve....rebuilt ipr....and still...it ran fine with a few hiccups before I rebuilt the ipr....and fuel bowl....
I have no computer only volt meter...12.5v and reversed 12.8v on the ipr..
8omms ipr....
New icp...great continuity...
Not sure of volts...i will check tomorrow but I don't think that matters right now...
Any ideas...i have done my research...ive posted on Facebook for help....all I get is get a regular job and pay a mechanic...i own my own company but the truck is broke😭....thank you
What's the name of the OBD reader you're using?
Bought a harness from. Riffraff on the weight of your recommendation
Great insight! Do you have the link for the battery video you refrenced yet?
th-cam.com/video/HegrubgxybI/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/dLhGUtMVavo/w-d-xo.html or just go to the main page by clicking the custom works guy under the video screen left side then hit video tab to see a wealth of 7.3 videos
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you
Thanks I have a 01 7.3 225,000 miles. It eats brake's and had to replace the tranny but this truck is reliable and I never put additives in her.
wagner pads / napa top line rotors/ and the only way I was able to stop the rear calipers from breaking was to change the pads at 2/3 rds of use and use extreme temp grease in the sliders
What was your ACK P.... reader you had? I have an 02' 7.3 w/ 255K. It was my grandpa/dads ranch truck and I'm slowly taking care of it. It runs great, I appreciate your knowledge and suggestions.
Can I have the complete name of that reader please ack-p
Great vedeo and great explanation 👍 👏 👌 a question my iCP sensor starts leaking on electric connector! and I buying a new one for replacing and looks like not fit on thread!🤔😏 because leaking a little bit by thread 🤔 I buying another new one from "rockauto" and it's a same situation 🤔😏 the oldest not leaking by thread and looks exactly the same 🙄😳😳 do you know what caind of sensor is a correct one? Great helpful explanation about 7.3👏👏👍 I want find out how to fixing this problem 🤔 damm ICP sensor 🤪 have a great day SiR 👋 cheers from Norway 👋
there are 2 different ICP's Rock auto carries everything from low grade garbage to mid quality, I only recommend from experience ford oem replacement parts but some ICPs come with thread sealer dipped on the treads and some have a O ring and some are wedged depending on the manufacturer The ones that leak usually are from MFGrs whom don't have the licence to produce them and there threads allow HPO to pass by them and don't have any sealing ring or previously mentioned , In a pinch plumbing thread dope does the trick
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD hi thanks for helpful information I appreciate 🙏 but here the FORD not sold parts for american vehicles 😏🙄🙄🤔 if you know a company sold that can sensors I can import 👌👍 that's a reason when i needs buying something for my american vehicles I buying on "rockauto"!! we can not buying anything here in Norway 🙄😏😕 I need buying a that iCP sensor because leaks oil on inside 😀 the rest is fine 😀 if you know some american companies export part's please let me know thanks so much you are a man 👏👏👌👍 cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 👍
Say what you want about this engine I worked for UPS for 30 years and we used this engine in a large amount of our package cars and hands down these were the best engine we used they commonly would last for 350,000 miles I have retired some with more then 650,000 miles on with just standard service
I bought my powerstroke because I watched my buddies and family friends who work their trucks hard break down in their dodge and Chevy trucks and go back to their old 7.3 that just wouldn’t die. My buddy has a whole fleet of trucks and the only ones he doesn’t get rid of are the 7.3 trucks, because they just keep putting in work. His cummins trucks are constantly eating parts (but to be fair, not engine parts) and his Chevy trucks have been money suckers too.
And 15k oil changes too.
Yall had powerstrokes in package cars?
@@thepitpatrol Onan, Cummins, T444 was the International version of the Commercial Powerstroke,. Then we got a bunch of Vortex v6 that eventually went Natural gas. While straight cars gas the Vortex were indestructible motors that pulled pretty good for a tiny motor. I was a distance driver in the mountains and got Sprinters. Had a few 4cylinder Mercedes that were way too de tuned and low RPM. The early Cummins vibrated so bad that I would sit at stop lights watching all the nut and bolts spin around inside of the cab . They hauled ass and would go 90mph pretty easy. I have even more stories about gassers too.
@@dirtcurt1 I ran a rural route. Covered 300 miles some days with around 50 stops. This was back in the 80's. I ran it whatbwe called a bubble top. It was a Ford 1 ton van with a 300 straight six and a 5 speed manual transmission. I had one stop called Ambrose Wood Shop that was 1 hour after you left pavement. The whole route was just great folks!
Thanks for the info am new to the 7.3 it's been my dream truck since I was 8 years old now I was offered this 00 f350 it had a big oil leak Tru the bolt port by the high pressure pump next to the icp sensor some one dint installed back I found that lol now it start with hesitation plug my scanner and found 400 to 500 psi cranking and same in idle so no acceleration installed new icp same condition installed new pump now have good pressure it starts and accelerate but still hesitate did a buss test and 3 injectors sond different installed new injector it runs grate till I drive it lol then it shut of only start on starter fluid ok lower tank uuuuffff ooooglyyy rust dirt water diesel pickup parts lol you name it ok clean and fix that replace filter and chassis pump still no crank add injector cleaner no start keep it running on starter fluid for a little few different days and it started to stay running ruff again but every day was better now it hesitate cranking on itself but it cranks and idle but won't accelerate pass 2500rpm and when it warms up gets worse into it stalls wait to cool of and it cranks and same thing if spray start fluid it accelerates any suggestions
check fuel first tank screens filter leaking
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I does not have the filter I clean the tank and put a hose to the pipe to compensate the length of the filter into I get the truck running good do you think that can be the problem why only does it when it warms up?
@@pitoboost4837 If I'm understanding this The fuel hose has to be a correct PSI so it doesn't suck it self closed but a won't start hot is usually as follows
If no start when hot and everything else is perfect, it's usually an IPR (or chaffed wires to the IPR), ICP (or the wires again), or oil that is sheared down and needs to be changed
What brand do you recommend for the engine wiring harness?
Riff Raff diesel is the best way to go ,,,, have full vin ready when you call or email
is there a TSB about the water pump bolts needed to be replaced with new? There is no mention of this in the workshop manual.
Yes the long bolts loose there stretch causing water pump leaks and timing cover leaks
I have a 2000 f450 7.3l, I watched the video on top 11 problems, my lift pump is cycling correctly, I believe that the problem is the glow plug circuit, it cranks over , but takes about 10 minutes to get it to fire up, once it starts it runs rough and perhaps not all 8 cylinders, smokes a little also. Got some points of help to direct me
I'm not an expert on any diesel, but have you tried replacing your glow plugs. From what I understand they aren't expensive, but you do have to pull the valve covers to get to them... On second thought, is it all the time or only when it's cold outside? Glow plugs aren't needed when it's warm out.
please advise us on the best obd app for the 7.3 please