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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2021
- Hi guys 🙂
Last week we published a video talking about bi-metal heat breaks, what are they and how to install one on a Creality Ender 3.
Meanwhile, many of you asked if we could share some print results with this new heat break.
So, in this video, we share the first test prints made using this bi-metal heat break from Trianglelab.
All the prints were made with pearl red PLA filament from FilamentPM.
📌You can check the installation tutorial here⤵
• BI-METAL HeatBreaks - ...
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#HeatBreak #CrealityEnder3 #3DPrinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
i tried one of these and there are actually 2 versions. one is longer designed specifically for ender 3 mk8 hotend and it works far superior than the one(shorter) featured here, i did not have to change much in my profile. I used arctic mx4 for heatsink and heatbreak on the cold end, nothing on the hot side. i also followed this guide and removed the 2 screws. retraction is 0.6 at 25mm/sec (using sherpa mini in direct feed. PLA printed great on the first try.
After watching your video I ordered this heatbrake, in the installation, when I removed the Teflon tube I realized that it was burning (when I printed petg) it was already brown, when I removed the tube it came out fuming, so it was a good upgrade
Thanks Rui! That gives a complete picture. Good job!
Great video. Great results too. I had clogs with mellow one and pla so went back to capricorn tube.
Awesome, thanks Rui!! Well done!
Thank you. I feel more confident in my purchase.
I think you might be able to replace the screws with stainless steel and even try to even sand/dremel alot of it so theres less heat transfer from the hotblock to the heatsink, but so it still holds the block
Hello, did you perform a PID calibration before/after? If yes, did you notice a change in the values? Thank you
I tried a titanium heat break from Spool3D. Worked well for CF nylon. But PLA kept clogging in it. Switched to a Micro Swiss and it's been working with everything.
other great vídeo thanks Rui
Great with a practice test 😊 love it
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
Great Video!
3.9mm retract without clogging? Im use 3mm and result clog.. 2mm is safe retract distance but still stringing..
Generally all metal + Bowden (not direct drive), *with pla*, tends to yield pretty poor results. So this, so far, looks to yield pretty decent results with a couple of modifications (settings and removal of the 2 screws)
try this, put your E aceleration on 1500 you will need to try 2500to1000 because it's Not dd , and retrack aceleration to 750 and try you will need to Re setup the retraction settings, but try it , pla is very soft and sticky, but most of the problem is It breack with fast aceleration of retraction, it breacks and make a blob on the tip Wen unretrack do the jam. a good cooling of the neck of the heatbreak and the lower part of the cooler is one of the most important things with any Fullmetal heatbreak. sory for my bad English, i use a v6 with Vulcano block and I print tpu pla etc etc but untill get this settings i codnt too
cant your share slicer seting for bimetal heartbreak with bowden setup
@@madorax251 probably not since I'm running a 0.8mm nozzle
So cut the bolts so they just bite enough, and if you have a lathe, drill them out. That seems like it should solve the heat creep issue. Also, buying a Copperhead C-E heat break is the way to go.
Sooo how to overcome the heat creep...are you suggest you remove the screw
with troat stock ender 3 is it shorter or the same length?
Great video. 1:25 You indicate this video is not a review of this particular heatbreak. However, having tested only a single brand of bi-metal heatbreak, I think it isn't fair to assess the performance of this particular heatbreak and attribute it's result as a reference to every other brand. I think I will stick to the standard heatbreak and might install a higher temp rated PTFE tube like the Capricorn in order to print at higher temperature(245°C) without the risk of having clogs.
In order to go higher in temperature (for ABS or nylon printing) should the sensor and the heating element be changed to?
Not familiar with the temperatures for ABS but I'm sure nylon goes beyond 300 degrees. In such a case you would need a different thermistor and a heater cartridge, there's also the chance you'll need a different board or an adaptor that allows the new components to be connected to the existing board. You'll also need to do an m500 on your gcode to recalibrate the heating
I was wondering if these bi-metal heat breaks made any difference so now I know. I think I'm going to buy one of the Trianglelab breaks because I've had good luck with several of their products before. I might actually try one of their Spiral Tower hot ends where instead of screwing the heat break into an aluminum heatsink, the upper half of the bi-metal heat break is the heat sink and is machined entirely from copper. No threaded interface, no heat sink grease required. Much more efficient at keeping heat away from where it's not wanted.
Is it as servicable? Do you have to replace the whole thing when its wearing out?
Thx for the review.... , how about PETG filament ? have you tested it ?
Yes we tested. However, we maintained the investigation with PLA because it's harder to print correctly with PLA when using a metal heatbreak since it can clog more easily if the heatbreak is not as good.
@@ruiraptor I see. So is PETG more suitable?
Not the point...the point is to get a good quality heatbreak that suits your needs. If you want to print only PLA, a PTFE lined heatbreak might be the best option. If you want to print high temperature materials, an all metal heatbreak is the solution. However, if you want to print PLA and other materials, you need to have a good quality heatbreak which interior is correctly polished to prevent PLA clogs.
@@ruiraptor thanks. I'm using petg only for this printer. (ender 3).what do you suggest?
Is it an improvement on the stock heatbreak, though?
It enables you to print higher temperature materials, and it also melts the plastic faster, allowing higher print speeds.
would be interesting to see how prints look when using some high temp material, like nylon or high temp pp. I have also bought a bimetal heatbreak, but I haven't install it yet , as I am concerned of poorer print quality.
I plan to install it when I switch to nylon
i have very good resolts
ok , got mine installed also , very pleased with results
how can you hold the heatblock without the screws? xD
all bi metal and full metal heatbreak need a good cooling
For this type setup, the DDE type style cooling setup of Trianglelab, but with a 4020 instead of the 4010, would be perfect
Heat paste at the thread can help
not on block side
huh they also have a ceramic or something aerospace ones. that one doesn't need a heatsink?!!!
also the heatcreep makes a lot of sense. ptfe is acting as an insulation.
You mean the dragon hotend?
@@ruiraptor no there's another one. it's a black middle copper outside heatbreak
The stock hotend cooling setup is just a crap. The air goes everywhere except through the heatsink fins. I printed a duct from ABS to concentrate the air to the hotend while keeping the stock metal housing.
is it something found on thingiverse ?
@@agmuntianu nopp, my own design. Maybe I should share it someday
the problem is that i hear that printed cooling ducts don't work well due to layers, this is why i'm currently wondering if i should use my TL dragon hotend, which doesn't come with a fan, nor does it have any ducts available.
Bruv you only tested PLA. Why??
We focused on PLA printing because PLA is the filament that has more issues with all metal heatbreaks. Poor quality ones will have more issues with PLA.
@@ruiraptor I see
Bimetall Heatbreak need speed I f you are too slow it gets too hot In the heatblock and you get Glock s
I was thinking the same, and im not sure if the mk10 is capable of achieve that without struggle in general, the heatsink itself is so small in comparison to a V6/volcano, a bi-metal heatbreak in a volcano+bmg(dd setup) , is the way imo
imo, bi-metal and bowden setup is meh, if u put this, u need a bmg extruder for example, in DD, obviously double z (dual motor), i think that way u can achieve all the goals in a "equitable" way, if not, one thing is above, always, u can't improve quality without improve structure, and viceversa
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