Cheap All Metal Hotend for your Ender 3 UPDATE!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- Warning, links to Chinese retailers are rarely good for long. I update this link every time someone reports it being bad, but all you have to do is go to Aliexpress and search for "ender 3 all metal hot end" and make sure you get one with a 1.75mm throat diameter. If it's 4.1mm or it doesn't say, either ask or pick a different one.
Cheap all metal hot end at aliexpress - bit.ly/2QW1XCl - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Next weekend I am installing exactly this all-metal-hotend. Timing could not be more perfect! Thank You!
Good luck!
Hey Chuck just wanted to take a second to say thank you for all the informative videos that you do , you have helped me out a lot with my 3D printing a adventure!
Thanks for letting me know! And glad to year you're doing good with 3D printing!
Lots of good advice, Chuck. Thanks for the video, as usual. Stay safe, keep well.
Thanks Paul!
I cannot emphasize how much i enjoyed this video and how much it helped! Thank you so much.
Thanks for the update!
Oh and I just bought two of them through your link. I have a Anet E12 and a ender 3. Getting ready to do a direct drive on my E12. I've updated the x axis on the E12 with a v slot.
how did it work out?
@@crookcostello6018 well it all might have went well if I would have remembered the retraction setting but I plugged the sucker almost from the get-go so i yanked it off and put a Bowden tube hotend back on it lol I haven't looked at them since.
I've been printing a lot of silk pla.
Hitter boxes and birdhouses.
We print plastic things - a Bowden tube cutter costs 1 single-edged razor blade and about 25 cents worth of filament.
As for all metal hotends, have you ever tried a 6mm long, 1.75mm diameter heat break? The space above the heat break is PTFE tubing (which is held in by the bottom of the fitting), but if the fan is working, that should be cool, do no molten filament will come out the top of the heat break. It's the "poor man's all metal hot end".
Mostly right. The heatbreak is to prevent the bowden tube from resting in the nozzle where it will char at high temps and cause clogging. The radiator above is designed to dissipate the heat from the heater block as it rises. Thats the whole point of the aluminum fins, to absorb heat from another source and dissipate heat.
THank you!! 3:48 was my question for the longest time and this answers it for me.
I'm glad I could help, thanks for watching!
I see a huge difference with some of the... let's say "cheaper"... PLA and PETG filaments if I forget to put the silicone sock back on my hotend and print with a 0.1mm layer height. First layer will look fuzzy from the extra heat hitting it, and often will expand up into the nozzle path for the next layer. I'll start complaining and thinking I have a clog in the hotend, and then notice the sock sitting on the table -- pop it back on, restart the print and everything is fine. Great video as always, Chuck!
That's a really great tip, thanks for sharing! I've had similar problems when switching from a printer with a sock to one without one and I've blamed it on a lot of things but never really thought of the sock. I'm off to buy socks for all my printers. Thanks for spending my money! lol
Great information Chuck!
Thanks!
11:50 - don't use your hands to tighten when the nozzle is heated!!!
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
When I change my all-metal-hotend with silicone sock had to reduce retraction for 1.2 mm however I am still having intermitent problems when hotend travel is long. Retraction speed is same still
Any suggestion?
Maybe I need more insulation for hotend.
Layer fan: same position, half speed.
Retraction speed: 25 mm/sec.
All-metal-Hotend lenght= 0.2 mm longer than No-all-metal-Hotend.
Retraction with:
No-all-metal-Hotend =6.45mm (no problem).
All-metal-Hotend =5.25mm.
13:39 i call it capcom tape cause it reminds me to have fun.
the screws have no influence on nobodies tests because the excess energy of the heat block has to escape somewhere and it does partially by the heat brake and we can't do much about it but some of it escapes happily to the radiator through those screws and in the sum of all... instead of having too much heat trying to pass through heat brake to radiator and ending in the filament you have it escaping directly in the radiator part laterally. It's just energy over time that has to go somewhere.
thnx for the insight brother
Great video.
FYI: It’s mid-November and just ordered four units @ $3.73USD
Thanks! They go up and down in price depending on the sale or the vendor. Still good at almost any price under $15.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Just put one of these 4 dollar ones in my CE3P 2 days ago. Kinda stunk the first time I heated it up, but working just fine now.
It's weird how almost everything from China has that same smell to it. But yea, mine stunk at first too.
Thanks for sharing. I had the same problem with these hot ends and I also suspect the cooling fan is not powerful enough to cool down the top part and that contributes to the filament jamming. I was hoping you talk about that too.
I have a 7 cfm 40 mm x 20 mm fan on my hot end. No heat problems at all.
Thank you Chuck.
YW, thanks for watching!
The type of thermal compound you actually want is boron nitride paste. Slice Engineering sells it, but I assume there are other sources. As you said, the only places you really would want it would be on the nozzle threads (it apparently also acts as an anti-seize compound), and the heater cartridge. as with most thermal compound, less is better and too much will just make a mess. With those screws in, it looks like you'd have 1 tool nozzle change capability which is incredibly useful. Finally, if you're going to get one of these or other 'clones' you might as well get the version with a plated copper heat block. They hold up to temps 400+ which aluminum will not and heat more evenly. Just be careful when tightening the nozzle not to strip the threads.
Good info, thanks!
I think using your metal cleaner you could scratch the inside of your hot end.
If you just use scrap piece of Bowden tube you can use that to clean out your hot end while it's on the printer with the nozzle removed
Good point. Someone also mentioned wooden BBQ skewers. I'll definitely try a piece of bowden tube! Thanks for letting me know!
@@3rdpig I clean it like a bolt action rifle.
Push all the crud out bottom. Clean Bowden tube and run it through again.
However, your comment about fitting was the best part. Regardless of replacing hotend, swap fitting to good ones.
The inside teeth count/design is shocking. The difference from cheap to the more expensive versions
Also, they are both all-metal hotends. One just has a heatbreak, one does not.
Good clear info, Thanks!
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
got a good link for a2 .4 nozzle too?
Capricorn tube has smaller inner diameter so it helps on bouden setup for lesser retraction and better print quality.
Have you tested this or are you just going by their marketing information? If you have tested it, how did you do it and what brand of regular tubing did you use?
I have cr-10 and i have experienced it with very glossy filament. Also i can print tpu faster than with standard ptfe tubing.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Great video
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Thanks for watching!
The screws people say you should remove ive just got titanium ones instead
Less weight and less heat transfer
I got one of those cheap hotend and it failed me on first print (molten filament leaked between heatbreak and cooler), second try with extra care to prevent any gaps there, again... the machining of the cooler block is bad, maybe that's the case. I gave up on it
You need to have high temp thermistor or similar to heat 320C. It is enough to tight nozzle with your printing temp and even lower. I do it 20C lower than my max print temp. No issues
Every screw in thermistor I've tested will read to 320 long enough to tighten the nozzle without damage. What data are you using to decide that tightening at a temp below max print temperature is OK?
Just to add a note the heat transfer with bolts innside does not transfer any heat that make a diff in my tests i got a variabel on + 0,6 c on a 7 hour print nozzle temp 250 c bed temp 80 c and ambient rom temp 24.2 c highest temp messured on the heat block about half way down was 39.1 c whit bolts inn and bolts out 38,5 fan at full blast. so i dont see the need to remove the bolt. happy printing. Nice video.
🎉 legend
They are acupuncture needles if you are trying to order some. Most acupuncture clinics would give you one if you asked nicely and needed it right away
So, you're going to make me rewatch that video so I know what you're talking about? Dude, that is cruel!
if you really want to improve the ender extruder all you need to do is to exchange the heat break with the one from Slice engineering. ( copperhead C-E variant)
So instead of a $7 part for our budget $150 printer, you're suggesting one that costs over $60 by the time it's delivered? No offense, but I think you're missing one of the main points of my video. Which is kind of hard to understand since "cheap" is the first word in the title. If you're going to throw a bunch of expensive parts into a budget printer then maybe a budget printer wasn't the best choice? Just saying...
You need to take those screws out AFTER mounting and tightening the nozzle onto the gantry carriage. If you keep those screws in, that's going to promote unwanted heat transfer into your heatsink and cause nothing but issues for you and your printhead... Good luck and happy printing!! --Update: Just to tell you that you won't necessarily see any difference in performance or run into and thermal issues is when performing those long and complex print jobs. Utilize a Silicon Sock to make the job easier for your printer and gain nice accurate temps of your printhead use a SOCK! There will only be a difference in long endurance/complex prints. Also, make sure you have adequate print head cooling... I'm done ranting lol I could go on forever on what to do and how to maximize performance. ;) Happy Printing!!
Teflon tape wouldn't hurt anything... I use it in industrial applications where temperatures exceed 300 degrees. It wouldn't be necessary really. But wouldn't hurt anything. Thanks for the video! Keep up the great content.
Great info, thanks!
@Russell White F
Teflon and PTFE are the same thing. You can't use Teflon tape.
I started out with an Ultimaker Original in 2012. After 8 years it is nice to know that 3D-printers are still jam-in. ha ha ha
Yes..that's what those 2-extra screws are exactly for. They hold the heatblock while you're tightening the nozzle. Then they should be removed until you're ready to unscrew the nozzle back out.
The silicone sock insulates the heatblock from the ambient temperature it may only insulate a little temp loss and you may not see much difference or why use it at all, but remember - the tighter your tolerances, the less temperature variation and so a better quality print (if only slightly)
Also, accidentally brushing your hand against a hot heatblock - even while cooling - can cause severe burns. Health and safety.. use a sock..
If most of the time only use PLA, PLA+, ABS, or PETG, I would suggest use Ender 3 hot end with capricorn tube.
I found all metal hot end use more slightly higher temperature than the stock one, hence consume more electricity which I believe is not worth it for those filaments.
Consider to use multi hot end for different purposes would be favorable.
If you have good insulation these few degrees should not cause to consume that much more electricity. Especially if you are using a hotbed. These puppies are essentially wasting all heat you pump to them (cuz you cant insulate the top surface). So in comparison to slightly higher hotend consumption (probably less than 1%). I wouldn't bother with saving electricity by sticking to the old hotend. Also, some ABS filaments like to have 250-255C while printing. This is probably the safe limit of stock hotend. Also at these temperatures, they don't last that long.
That said, I have been using stock hotend with Capricorn tubing and it is such a huge difference to stock one! I also highly recommend this upgrade.
Stay with a standard hot end if you don't need to go beyond 250c or so.
Hmmmm, a multi use hot end? Like maybe two hot ends side by side? One metal and one PTFE? There would be some loss of print area, but it wouldn't be more than say, 10mm. That's an interesting idea.
One more important thing, you must recalibrate PID with a new hotend
Nice job...
I gave one of these a shot and was able to print PLA, but with PETG the higher temperatures (230 degrees) ended up leading to heat creep issues and the nozzle clogging. Not much point in going to an all metal hotend if I can't go over 215 degrees without clogs :).
I don't think I've ever printed PLA or PETG with any of mine. The only things I print with an all metal hot end are things that have to be in my enclosed printer to avoid warping. So ABS, nylon, ASA, PC and of course all my failed attempts at POM. I've printed up to 300c with mine and have yet to experience clogging due to what I thought would be heat creep. Have you decreased your retraction to 1mm and decreased the retraction reprime speed to 20mm/sec? Also, using an oiler helps with clogging. If the two side screws that hold the heat block to the cooling section are still there you might want to consider removing them after tightening the nozzle. I'm not sure how much they contribute to heat creep, but it has to be something.
@@3rdpig Retraction was down to 1mm but I hadn't adjusted retraction reprime speed, and I hadn't thought about removing those 2 screws, but I'll give that a try. Certainly with the hype around bi-metal heatbreaks two steel M3 screws between the two can't be helping anything. Thanks!
Please share your slicer settings for this all metal hotend
Which slicer? What filament? What other mods? What bed adhesion method? What I'm saying is the settings that works for my setup might not work for you. Switching from the standard teflon hot end to the all metal hot end you to reduce your retraction amount to 1mm, or 2 at max. If you use an oiler you might get 3 or 4, but if you retract too far it will jam since the bore of the all metal hot end isn't as slick as the teflon hot end. Also while your retract speed can stay the same, your reprime speed should be lowered to around 20mm. Other than that, go with what's worked for you in the past or start with what the filament manufacturer recommends. If your getting jams, reduce the retraction amount of the reprime speed. I like to start low and work my way up. Jams suck. And as I said, an oiler can help a lot.
My CR10 gets a thermal error shutdown without the silicone sock (or a few wraps of kapton tape). I guess it offers a fair amount of insulation from the cooling fan pointing at the heater block...
I've never really noticed much of a difference between having the sock (or any insulation) and not having it. IMO the stock CR-10 part cooling fan points to much at the heater block which is probably why your heater can't maintain the temp without insulation. You might want to look at some of the alternate cooling ducts on Thingiverse that aim the airflow off the heater block and onto the printed part.
@@3rdpig Yeah, the standard setup seems to blast air near more than over the heatsink. Which might also explain why I got a very clogged heatbreak on one of these cheap all metal things.
I'm actually trying to tweak a Tronxy XY2 pro to run an Ender/ CR 10 X carriage as parts/ mods seem much more widely available for the Creality stuff. I grabbed a "Mini Me" fan duct from Thingiverse and strapped two 12v 4010s wired in series on the front of it. No more clogs. Yet.......
wonder if punting thermal paste were it bolts to the frame would help
I would not advise thermal paste at all.. it helps transfer heat from the heatblock to the heatsink.
Adding heat to your heatsink is counter productive, the heatsink is only for taking heat from the throat and dissipating it by airflow..
i got one and the quality is so poor that i just took the heatbreak and put it in my creality hotend. worked great on the ender 3 until i switched to v6 and direct drive.
For what i know, teflon tube goes all the way dawn because when we leave melted plastic in contact with metal, a kind of rust comes to play with our hot end :( thats also why we should leave the printer on a while after using it
Interesting, I've not heard that before. Stainless steel does not rust or corrode (or shouldn't if it's formulated properly) and since the throat on almost all hot ends is stainless steel and the nozzles are either stainless steel or brass rust or corrosion seems unlikely. That being said, there is such a thing as "dissimilar metals corrosion" which happens when two different metals are in contact with each other. Since the body of the hot end is aluminum, the throat is stainless steel and the nozzle is often brass, I could see the possibility of this being a problem. However I've never seen rust or corrosion on my all metal hot end. But I also live in a very dry area.
@@3rdpig stainless Steel looses its corrosion resistance properties when its heated cant remember the exact temps it happens but its stain-less remember not stain-non
3-mm chop sticks or barbecue squires work for cleaning out hot plastic as well.
Good tip, thanks!
nice video and awesome tools.
Thanks!
www.captubes.com/specs.html
Melting point is 300/340c depending on the grade, but off-gassing of the teflon still occurs, that's the warning at the bottom. I bet this is what confuses some people, the melting point and off-gassing point.
You're probably right. And to be honest, if it wasn't apparent I'm not a materials engineer or a chemist. I have no idea how much off gassing there is or how harmful it is. Since I love my wife and my dog, I'm playing it safe.
@@3rdpig I've read its similar to leaving an empty teflon frying pan sitting on the stove under the fire - I think it really depends how long its sitting there, to how much it off gasses. I think frying pans have the same warnings on them if i'm not mistaken. Some also claim, that the TPFE tubing is fine as long as you open a window and turn a fan on, which makes sense, but I don't think I'd take a chance with that personally myself. History has shown many people suffering a lifetime for dumb mistakes and trying to save a buck or two. Good video brother, keep up the good work!
Leaving the screws won't hurt anything, steel isn't a good conductor of heat.
11:10 300 degrees Fahrenheit!? What do you print? Chocolate?
Chocolate bunnies for Easter. I'd send you some in the mail, but they'd never make it out of Arizona as anything other than a puddle.
But wont you have to increase the retraction if you print with PET or other elastic filaments?
I don't use any retraction at all with elastic filaments like TPU. For PETG I use the same retraction settings as I do for PLA. But I really only use the machine with the all metal hot end for filaments that require 250c or higher print temps.
@@3rdpig Thank you. :)
I just out this chinese hotend. In short print works perfect but in longer than 1 hour keeps clogs and jamming. I will try replace fan duct and give it one more chance :)
Sounds like you may have your retraction settings wrong. Turn your retraction amount down to 1mm, your retract speed to 40mm/sec and your reprime speed to 20mm/sec and see if the clogging doesn't stop. If it does you can increase the retraction 1mm at a time until it starts to clog again, then back off 1mm. Also, an oiler will help you get a bit more retraction.
@@3rdpig 0.5mm retraction, 40mm/s still clogs. Back to stock setup :)
if you got a mini mill lathe? can you make the nozzle with a chamfer? can you mill the heat block with mating chamfer , to mate with the nozzle chamfer ?
Sure, I suppose I could. In your opinion what's the upside to doing that? And other than the time/work in doing it, what's the downside?
@@3rdpig I think if both parts are chamfered, they will fit with close tolerance, not just being butted up together, one surface will be in the other surface. the filament will not catch against a edge of a hotend surface, the filament should glide thru hotend better, with no sags , IMO
@@3rdpig thinking, if the chamfer of the hotend was downward, like a drill bit into some wood, to counter sink a screw head. the hot end would fit , the filament would not hang up on any inside surface, should slide thru the nozzle. sounds good? makes sense to me now.
is the stock xy2 pro hot end all mettle ? as some saying yes some say no?
I don't know, but I doubt it. Why would they put an all metal hot end on a beginner level printer? That wouldn't make sense to me.
"Non-all-metal hotend" = PTFE-lined hotend (usually)
Apparently just saying "PTFE lined" isn't good enough so pictures were required.
Do you have any advice to stop the heat sink from getting very hot? My heat sink keeps getting very hot and I think it is causing my printer to halo
Jam* not halo.
First, after properly tightening the nozzle, be sure to remove the two screws on either side. Next, put a sock or boot over the heater block and third, make sure your cooling fan is blowing in the right direction and running at full speed. When it doubt, but a good quality ball bearing fan (at the right voltage, the Ender 3 requires a 24 volt fan).
But if you're using an all metal hot end and you're having jamming issues be sure to turn retraction off completely and see if that's the problem. Without some kind of lube on the filament you will have jamming issues if you turn retraction higher than 2 or 3mm. Also, slow down your deretract speed to 25mm/sec, that stops the mushrooming on the end of the filament on a deretract movement which can also help with jamming.
@@3rdpig i have been having the hardest time trying to get any adhesion at all with this hot end. Do you have any idea why that might be? It will scrape the bed before it sticks. I have no retraction on and the filament will come out and curl up and stick to the nozzle
@@3rdpig Do you have any advice on getting the cooling fan to blow in the right direction? I turn it off and my printer will print and then jam. I turn it on and it causes the filament to have very poor adhesion to the bed surface. I’m not sure how I can adjust it on my ender 3 max.
Hey had a question. I installed one of these on my Ender 3 pro and as soon as I heated it up to 200 it started lightly smoking?!
I bought a new one and it does the same thing. I put the old one back and it doesn’t smoke. Help!!
I've installed 3 of these and mine only smoked for the first few minutes as it burned off any oil or grease used in it's production or put on to protect it during shipping. If yours is smoking longer than that I'd have to ask "What the heck is smoking?". I mean it's steel, aluminum and maybe a bit of titanium alloy in the heatbreak. Those metals themselves don't smoke at 200c. If it was me I'd just go ahead and heat it till it somked and let it burn off whatever is on it. But then again, I'm a madman so you should take my advice with that in mind. If you don't want to do it with your printer take it outside and use a heat gun. Be careful if you use a propane torch, the heatsink is aluminum and a propane torch can melt aluminum if you're not careful.
@@3rdpig Thanks for the response sir.
I was thinking it was some type of coating burning off as well but I let it go for about 20 min and it was still (barely) smoking.
I was trying to find the exact place it’s coming from. It also only starts when I put the fan/shroud on which makes me think possibly wires touching the side of the hot end but I thought they had some type of heat proofing on them.
I will try letting it stay at 200 or so for an hour and just watch it. Thanks again!
Update: it did stop smoking after about 30 more minutes of letting whatever it was burn off.
Now to fix my extruding issue..
I wonder if my ender 3 v2 came with a metal hotend every upgrade I see the original hot end is red and mine looks like all of the all metal people are buying
Easy way to tell. The bowden tube on an all metal hot end will only push in about 10-15mm or so, from then on down the hole is only large enough for the filament.
With a non all metal hot end it will push all the way in until it contacts the top of the nozzle, or about 40-50mm. Or to be completely sure, pull the nozzle and if it's not all metal you should be able to push the bowden tube all the way through.
I've heard the silicone sock is just to help clean up for Spaghetti Incidents 😁
It really depends on your part cooling fan setup too, if that fan blows on the heater block of the hotend too much, you'll have way more trouble keeping the temperatures up, and you use way more power. The silicon socks or some insulation and kapton tape help prevent that cooldown effect a little.
The 2 screws that people claim are for assembly only is BS, think about it. what company is going to supply an assembly worker with 2 screws for every hotend if they are not needed, Naomi Wu asked the engineers at Creality and they said they are needed and the heat they transfer is negligible,
I'll go with what Creality says about their bowden tube style hot ends. However, they are not necessary on an all metal hot end like the one in the video. I've been running that exact hot end on my enclosed Ender 3 for a year without them. If they were necessary, I think I'd know it by now.
Sorry Andrew you are wrong when it comes to the all metal clone based on the MicroSwiss. The original MicroSwiss it’s based on has no screws. In fact I had major clogging issues with mine until I removed them. They were causing heat creep. Also why ask Creality anything? They don’t make the clone.
I use the screws so my hotend doesn't spin when i put in a nozzle. Never had a problem.
The 4 dollar hotend I bought a month ago doesn't even have holes for those screws.
Hey Chuck! I have a micro swiss hotend, and it works pretty well. I ordered a couple of the clones for extra parts. You can't beat the price, so thanks!
I also have a problem that maybe you (or others) might have a solution for. I have an Ender 3 that has had a squeaking X axis for a while. I've tried to fix it, but can't find the problem. Last night I had a print fail due to the X axis sticking.
I've tried to adjust the eccentric and the belt, but I can still feel it sticking sometimes. For the life of me I can't find any reason for it sticking. The belt kind of wanders around on the bearing, and if I force it to the front it seems better, but I don't know how to fix that. Any suggestions are welcome.
I have a micro swiss direct drive adapter if that makes any difference, but it's been on for a while and I haven't had any problems until a few weeks ago when it started squeaking. I also oiled it a few days ago, which stopped the squeaking...
Thanks for the kind words! I've got no experience with the MicroSwiss direct drive extruder, but I can see it possibly causing some problems as it moves the not inconsiderable weight of the stepper motor off the frame and onto the moving X axis, something which the Ender 3 wasn't designed for. I'm sure a lot of people do it without issues, but I'd bet that it makes belt and roller adjustment critical as well as bearing and roller wear. Not to mention slicer settings such as Acceleration and Jerk. Normally I only see a problem with Acceleration and Jerk on the Y axis, but that's typically because it's heavier and then I usually make it worse by adding a glass or mirror bed.
So here's how I'd proceed if I were you. I'd take the X axis apart, inspect all the parts, make sure the bearings and rubber rollers aren't worn, or damaged, then reassemble it and get the belt and rollers adjusted really close. The belt will need to be extra tight due to the added weight of the stepper motor. I'd also lower the Acceleration to around 250 and the Jerk to 5. If the X axis problem continues, I'd swap back to the regular extruder with the stepper motor on the frame and see if the problem goes away. If it does you've found the problem, If it doesn't I'd try swapping the X and Y stepper motors and see if the problem moves with the motor.
While you have it apart you might want to consider going with upgraded Delrin rollers and better bearings. Putting the motor on the X axis really does add a lot of weight and I'm betting missing or skipped steps is part of the problem.
I hope that helps, keep me posted!
@@3rdpig Thanks for the advice, and it certainly could have to do with the weight of the extruder motor. My next step was to take it all apart and try swapping out the stepper motor. I could also try putting the old extruder back on.
I'm not sure acceleration will help much. I can slide the roller by hand very slowly and feel the sticking. It doesn't happen every time, but sometimes it just seems to catch on something and get much harder to move. I just can't see what's causing it.
Thanks again for the advice, and I'll let you know if/when I solve it.
I think I got it fixed. I completely re-adjusted it again and, when I tried testing it the stepper motor completely stopped and the printer gave an error. I figured the most likely cause was the driver, so I swapped out the driver and it's been working perfectly since. I don't know if the failing driver was the entire cause, or a result of a jamb, but it is work now, and I don't feel the sticking anymore. Now back to fighting with some stringy PETG!
Does anyone have a new link to the one in his video? His link now sells an inferior one to what he has in the video.
I just checked the link and I'm curious as to what makes you think it's inferior? About the only difference I can see is they've rounded the corners off.
But here's one that looks a lot more like the ones I bought. But honestly, I think they're same other than cosmetically.
bit.ly/36gYe6x
@@3rdpig the hearbreak is not the same as in your video. OK the second link you put in is the same type :).
I tried printing without the silicon boot on my Ender 3 v2 at 210 C, but it failed because it wasn't able to reach that temperature. :|
I've been all the way to 300c with my enclosed Ender 3 and this all metal hot end, but that's with a SKR 1.3 board. My other Ender 3 has lost most of the factory heat wrap off the stock hot end and it still reaches 235 without an issue. If I were you I'd take a look at the connections and make sure something isn't loose or installed improperly.
@@3rdpig Thanks! I'll do that. :)
Anybody have a current link to a good option on AliExpress?
It's really simple, go to Alixpress and type in "all metal hot end ender 3". Any all metal hot end that fits the ender 3 or the CR10 will work. Here's one for you.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBNrZwB
@@3rdpig awesome thank you. Silly question but do I need to get the 24 V or 12 V for an Ender 3
The link is not to the one you reviewing. I am looking of all metal but with the screws like the one you r reviewing
Links to Chinese retailers never stay good for long. Just search on Aliexpress for "ender 3 all metal hot end" and you'll find a bunch of them. But be careful, a lot of the stores on Ali don't know what it means for a hot end to be "all metal". So either buy one that advertises a 1.75mm throat diameter (4.1mm is for bowden tube throats) or that shows you a picture of the end of the throat and it's obviously 1.75 and not 4.1. I'll put a link below, but don't expect it to be good for more than a few days at best.
bit.ly/2QW1XCl
@@3rdpig Thank you Chuck!
What do you think about dragon hotend. It has some patent problems, but here and there it can be found. It was manufactured by phaetus and trianglelab.
One of the advantages is exchanging the nozzle when cold.
I know it much higher in price.
US $79.90 | Dforce Dragon Hotend V2.0S Super Precision 3D Printer Extrusion Head for V6 Hotend for TITAN BMG Direct drive Bowden
a.aliexpress.com/_mNsOp7T
no more than one millimeter... or turn it off? what's the minimum? what do you feel is best?
oh... and can you sell some of those lathed tools on ebay? (~10mm->bowden size->1.7mm->0.4mm ideally :D)
if not someone else?
and then link me :D
I think the amount of retraction you can do will depend on a number of things, including how smooth the filament path inside of the hot end is. But yea, start at 1mm and work up slowly until it jams then drop down 0.5mm and you should be good...after you clear the jam. You can also use an oiler, that let me go to 4mm with no problems. Just make sure the oiler doesn't dry out. I don't sell on ebay anymore, between the scammers and the idiots it was costing me more than I was making. With some aluminum round stock a bit bigger than what you need, a drill, a set of small files and some sandpaper you can easily make your own. It will take longer than on a lathe, but it's something you'll only have to do once.
@@3rdpig hmmm and filed flat would be easier than round, which would actually be better for scraping, thanks
my mk-8 hotend on a Ender3 pro during the year (5 kg of plastic) did not bring me any issues. I even do not know, should I or not to replace it to a mosquito or smth else hotend?
However, I waste so mach time with CR-10, than you could not even imagine ... That is definitely a trash... Pardon)
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The stock Ender 3 hotend is fine for any filament that doesn't need temps higher than a teflon lined hot end can handle.
@@3rdpig thanks for a tip)
Im stil confused about cheap and you know.. ehemm, expensive all metal hotend, so i ask your experience after using it all this time, do you have any problem with the cheap one recently? what is the problem and how many times?
I'm still using it on my enclosed Ender 3. Once I got the retraction settings right (which you have to do on any all metal hot end, not just this cheap knock off) it's been working fine without a single problem related to the hot end. I'm doing tests with ASA filament now and that's the printer I'm using.
@@3rdpig thank you, I am gonna try it.
@@3rdpig Hey chuck. I got a jam 40 mins into the print. I used 0.5 mm of retraction with PETG set to 230. What do you think i should do next?
💥It does get hot, so take precaution💥
Here's an old adage from my youth, "You never accidentally touch a cold exhaust pipe".
Those 2 mounting screws don't transfer hardly any heat at all. That's been debunked. Relying on the single grub screw is not very good. It's a weak setup and also the heat block to rotate too easily. I converted my stock hotend to an all metal version with a titanium heat break from Spool3D, I also bought their nickel plated copper heat block that comes with 2 titanium mounting screws. Copper is stronger than aluminum and can handle higher temps over 300 C without losing structural integrity, unlike aluminum.
I agree with you about the heat transfer of the screws being negligible. However, the difference between copper and aluminum at the temps hobbyist 3D printers reach is negligible at best. While copper is a bit stronger and has a higher melting temperature both lose 50% of their structural strength at about the same temperature. So while I'd prefer copper too, it's just not an issue with 3D printers. And when the time comes to move beyond aluminum, I doubt it will be copper that's selected unless it's an alloy.
will this work on ender 3 v2? and print PETG?
It will work on the Ender 3, but you don't need an all metal hot end to print PETG, the stock hot end will work fine.
@@3rdpig Just to clarify, the OP asked about and Ender 3 V2, not an Ender 3. Do you know if this will work on the V2? Also, is it safe to assume that this would be needed for printing ABS?
Thanks for the great video, BTW...subbed.
@@imacmill I print ABS with stock hot end all the time on my 3 v.2
Does anyone know if this will work on an Ender 3V2?
I don't. However, if mounting hole spacing is correct and it has roughly the same overall length (mounting holes to nozzle tip) I can't see why it wouldn't work. I still have one new in the package, If you're interested I could send you the measurements and you could compare it with yours.
@@3rdpig Thanks for the offer on measurements, but I just ordered one anyway. If it doesn't fit, I'm only out a few bucks.
Thanks again.
Mine keeps clogging all the time. Getting well F off with it now
Just about every time I've seen an all metal hot end constantly jamming (usually prints for 10-15 minutes then jams) it's been the retraction settings in the slicer. You can't use the same retraction settings for an all metal hot end that you do for a bowden tube hot end. You want to start with only 1 mm of retraction distance (original setting might be as high as 8mm). The original retract speed is fine (it's probably 40 to 60 mm/sec) but you need to turn down the reverse retraction movement speed (called retraction prime speed in Cura and deretraction speed in Prusa Slicer) to 15-25 mm/sec. Once you have it printing OK with 1mm of retraction you can bump it up until you find the highest amount you can use without jamming. You can also add an oiler which will give you another 1-2mm of retraction before it starts jamming.
@@3rdpig Think it may have bee user error, I had the heat break screwed right down into the heat block (well it never cam with instructions) so nozzle was not screwed in all the way and the small pipe bit of the heat break that does the cooling was inside the heat block. fixed it all just now after realising and putting 2 and 2 together watching youtube videos I noticed a diference. Will let you know how things go.
No you are wrong! Always use Teflon tape on the nozzle or it will leak. Mine don't leak with Teflon tape.
Mine don't leak without it.
LOL, this is a funny video Chuck, I say that because as I clicked on it, I was monkeying with the All Metal Hotend I bought after watching your FIRST video, and never installed. To follow up on the Bowden tubing and max heat question, all PTFE (Teflon) tubing is good to over 300C, and even higher, the reason why people panic and say you'll die is they don't understand the chemistry behind Teflon, and they seem to think it will start out gassing. Go look on Wikipedia if you'd like more information, however, like I always tell people, "you be you, and do what YOU think is best for you, and Ignore everyone else". This is part of the reason I've not installed my All Metal Hotend, that and I'm working on building an All Metal Hotend that's water cooled. The CCP-19 virus has put that project on hold for a bit.
Anyway, Thanks for your videos, I always enjoy them.
Welp, I must be doing something right because I've NEVER once had an issue with my stock Ender 3 Pro hotend! Until I have problems, I'll keep my original stock hotend!
I think you're missing the point of this exercise. There's nothing wrong with the stock Ender 3 hot end. If all you want to do is print filament that requires a hot end temp of 250 or below, there's no reason to change it. However, if you want to print filaments that require a higher temperature then you need to replace it with one that's all metal. Or at least replace the stock bowden tube with an upgraded one, like Capricorn.
If I may offer some advice, maybe you need to ask more questions and gain more knowledge before you start slinging comments around. I won't pounce on you, but there's more than one youtuber who will. Just saying...
Avrage heatsink paste no.... but who uses that junk?! Get a copper heat block and put in some liquid metal
Correction, the nozzle cleaner is NOT designed to clean the nozzle lol, its designed to go deep in human flesh since it is a fking acupuncture needle repurposed as a cleaning tool LOL
And here I thought it was only me that did that kind of stuff. lol
Some of the manufacturers of hot-ends brag about how their heat-brake is made from titanium to stop heat creep and then provide boron paste and tell you to apply it to the thread that goes into the heatsink and the block, I have asked them to explain this and they claim" the application of the paste will increase the heatsinks ability to dissipate the heat from the heatbrake" well if the paste wasn't applied there wouldn't be any increased heat for the heatsink to dissipate, its fake science they are peddling, and some of the larger YT channels have bought into this and preach it as gospel, I have suggested these YTbers read the book "The Emperor Wears No Clothes"
Chuck, is the cheap hot-end made of cast aluminium or is it machined? I have seen some supposedly high-quality clones made by a company called Mellow that are machined but they have the Bowden collet like the Micro Swiss and not the pneumatic fitting which I think is superior, I am considering getting one and cutting a thread for the fitting instead of using that plastic Bowden collet
Honestly, I'm not sure whether they're cast and then rough machined, or just cut from something like a 1"x1" aluminum bar. Mine are covered with very rough machine marks, almost as if a bandsaw or something similar was used. And the heat block is different than the cooling block. Later versions I've seen are much better finished, but really don't work any better. Personally, I don't care about the ugly since once the fans are mounted no one can see them.
Way back in the dawn of computer liquid cooling I roughed out some CPU coolant blocks in a similar fashion as a proof of concept. They were horrendously ugly, but I had them done in a couple of hours and they worked great. They ware also about 3x the size they needed to be. But there's no kill like overkill .
Chuck ,where you angry when making this video, lol
Mildly annoyed at worst. 😉
Hi, just letting everyone know although this is still a valid upgrade for your hotend, it is not truly all metal as it lined with Teflon inside so temperatures above ABS temps (240-250) will potentially damage it.
Did you actually watch the video? The red hot end is a stock Creality Ender 3 hot end. The silver hot end is an all metal hot end. There is NO PTFE tube or teflon in it. I clearly showed the difference between the two.