ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.พ. 2021
- Hi guys 🙂
Have you ever heard about Bi-Metal Heat Breaks?
In this video, we will explain what are they and how to install them on a Creality Ender 3 (or Ender 3 Pro).
You can find on the market bi-metal heat breaks from different manufacturers, however, in this video we used a bi-metal heat break from Trianglelab.
Check the video for all the details and don´t forget to give it a like 👍
📌Here you can find the follow-up video with the first test prints⤵
• Trianglelab BI-METAL H...
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#HeatBreak #CrealityEnder3 #3DPrinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Maybe the most clear and straightforward video about 3D printing instructions I have ever seen on the platform. Subscribed!
Thanks for this video. I will use this guide to add this heartbreak to my Anycubic Chiron.
thanks for posting this, I will certainly give this a try!!
Os teus vídeos são sempre tão bem feitos e tão bem explicados obrigado mesmo rui 💪💪
If we're using the original PTFE tubing, before reassembling with the new heat break, which does not require the tubing to be quite as long, I would recommend cutting about 20 to 25 mm off the end of the tubing (the part that was previously subjected to the most heat), in order to get "fresher" PTFE tubing seated in the new heat break.
Hi MBAgeeJr68
Yes, you are correct.
I love mine. Best upgrade I made.
This helped me immensely! Now to put it to the test on my printer...
Excellent video bro, thank you, this helped me understand, termendously, the elusive heatbreak upgrade ;)
The best instruction as always, Rui!
Had you already upgraded your hot end? Mine heat sink in silver and my heat break does not screw into my heat block. With my current setup can I try this, or do I need to upgrade first?
Looking forward to seeing a print quality test vs stock. A big reason I haven't replaced the heat break was due to seeing a lot of concern for jamming on other solutions' like titanium heat breaks or the microswiss all metal hotend
thx, hopefully this should fix my clogging problem
Nice video!
Thanks for the video, this is just for Creality/ Tevo ?
Estou pensando em comprar um desses para poder imprimir PETG e ABS de forma mais segura, como foi a sua experiência após meses? Problemas de entupimento?
FOR BL/CR TOUCH USERS: The probe might be lower than the nozzle when the probe is not deployed if you follow these instructions and it will hit your part mid-print. The original heatbreak might be longer than the new bi-metal heatbreak (if you buy a cheaper one) so you should make sure the top non-threaded cylinder of the heatbreak is sticking out of the dissipator 2-3mm so your nozzle is low enough. But still leave the gap between the cylinder and the heatblock too.
Thanks man❤
And dont forget to make the new Z-Offset when changed. Or the Nozel could drive in your Bed😅
Why do you heat the nozzle only up to 180c for tightening? I believe it must be heated to higher temperature than you will print so the nozzle won't come loose due to thermal expansion.
6:56
okay, I checked the temps and the nozzle is a couple of degrees below room temperature. What now?
Hi, no test print?
Thank you for the video on how to assemble the new Bi-metal break. Question, why are the two long screws that go from the heat block into the heat sink required ? seems like they would just transfer heat to the heat sink and add to heat creep. Is it just a support thing so the heat break does not get damaged when changing nozels ?
Hi, the topic of these screws was mentioned several times in the past in several discussion groups but there was not given a definitive answer. The fact is that Creality is still selling their printers with these screws.
They support the heatbreak in case of a crash.
@@jessehellakoo Exactly, this is the reason why I did this upgrade instead of buying something like the Phaetus Dragonfly that has no support for the heat break.
Parece-me ser um upgrade bastante bom, no entanto acho o preço um pouco elevado!
I don't have this model printer so I'm asking, Do the screws through the heat block to the heat sink kinda defeat the heat block? I have a Prusa mk3s+ and my heat break is threaded on both sides ( like the other version he was showing) and this is the only contact between the hot and cold sides.
Hi Eugene, yes, the 2 screws from the block to the heatsink will make some heatcreap (although it's not seen on the creality stock hotend ). These screws are only good to secure the block while installing/removing the nozzle.
Run a new pid tune. Good video..
Hi ruiraptor. Tested 3 bi-metalic heatbreaks on direct extruder v6 style and had print quality issues with pla with all of them. Partial clogs, full clogs, broken bottom pieces and bottom piece spinning was result of the tests. Good idea in general but bad execution for now with these.
Hi samster199, thank you so much for sharing your results with us. Can you please let us know if the bi-metal heat breaks that you tests were also from Trianglelab?
@@ruiraptor hi. Just checked - It was Mellow NF bi-metalic from aliexpress.
I'm curious if this one is better or different at all to that one.
I had trianglelab titanium heatbreak before and it was also cloging with pla filaments (high quality pla).
I'm trying to change my heat break and the old one wont unscew from the heat block, i have tryied pliers, heating to 180ºC but nothing so far...
It performs better if you keep those 2 screws out. the heat transfers throughout these screws and still makes it useless. There is a reason why Slice Engineering, E3D and other hotends dont use screws to secure the block. the block is secured by the heatbreak/nozzle and heatsink combination. The only reason i think they have added those 2 screws is so you can replace the nozzle without twisting the construction. just put the screws in if you change the nozzle. remove them when done.
Hi, yes, that is correct.
GOD!
Ordered 2 of these from Trianglelabs and tried installing on my ender 3. Took it apart and reassembled it 3 times but it clogs like crazy even with very low retraction. Going back to the old heatsink.
Did you get It?
@@kilevine2359 yep, switched to a bmg direct drive and it works like a charm. The standard extruder is a POS
@@petro883 does POS stand for piece of sh*t?
@@petro883 A little late to the party, but would you say it is because the Ender 3 doesn't use direct drive that was causing issues? I'm asking since I have an S1 with direct drive. I'm wondering if this would be a good way to go haha
@@kennethchau6318 Yes, had installed a direct drive and it works perfect since then.
You are missing that you need to reduce retraction values. I highly suggest the video on the subject by CNC kitchen!
Hi, the retraction was not mentioned because the video was focused on the installation and the required steps before printing (like checking the nozzle to bed distance which was not mentioned on the other video). The retraction and other slicer setting are normally done while doing the first test prints.
I’ve been needing one of these for a while now but my PETG prints so nicely with my settings... I’m afraid it will throw all of my hard work off
Hi Harley, if you printer is running great, don't modify it ;)
If you're still running strong after 2 years, definitely don't change it! I would wait until something fails tbh haha
I hv trouble dismantling the original heat break the printer comes with and when I finally managed to take it off, the new bi metal heat break I put in got stuck half-way in and I am not able to turn it by hand. There were black burnt residue as shown in this video but on mine, they were also inside the threads of the heat block and I couldn't take them off completely before I screw in the new heat break? Any help as to how to continue tighten or remove the new heat break? I havent try turning it using hand tools to avoid damaging the bi-metal heat break
Suggest heating and cleaning the inside of your threads. I want to say it's most likely filament that overflowed inside the hotend assembly.
@kennethchau6318 ya I managed to removed the heat break by heating up the heat block. There were some marks left on where I grab it with my tool. I wasnt able to clean up the original heat block because there were just too much junk stuck on the thread that wasnt coming off easy so I replace it with a spare heat block
On this type of style of hot is it considered Mk8? I want to make sure of and when I order a the all metal heat break I get the correct size. The printer I have same the same style hotbed Which is TRONXY D01 Core XY
cant your share slicer seting for bimetal hertbreak with bowden setup
Hi Robby, we share all our slicer profiles on our patreon page. You can check it here:
www.patreon.com/posts/trianglelab-bi-3-48195349
Does this video also apply to the Ender3 Max? What are the differences?
Yes, it should be pretty much the same process.
For what was the threaded heatbreak. Thanks for answer
For a different Creality printer
Installation looks clear, thanks! Have you oiled it?
I'm hungry for poutine after watching this video for some reason
My heatbreak broke off because I followed the instructions which said to take it off while cold.... this in turn ruined my heatblock. Had to buy a completely new hotend assembly...
The question is whether I get this or a whole new hot end
Doesn't this technically mean that it becomes an all metal hot end ? Or basically removes the need to get an all metal hot end right?
i think it is better than a microswiss all metal hotend, because it prevents heat creep
Yes although I think they're starting to use bimetal hotend to differentiate between oh say the Microswiss "all metal hotend" which is also the products name and Slice Engineering's "Copperhead" or Mosquito hot ends. There a generic brand on Amazon with the named product "red lizard bme" bme stands for bimetal hot end. They missed an H in there but what do I know I'm dyslexic.
could this be used in conjunctions with that ender 3 hot end fix with the washer to squeeze down on the bowden tube? or is not necessary due to the characteristics of the heatbreak?
Hi, since with this heatbreak the PTFE tube will not go throught and all the way down to the nozzle, you don't need that fix.
@@ruiraptor waiting on some thermal paste then I will install it like you, thanks for the video, now I have all metal hot end, no need for micro swiss lol
@@ruiraptor I have installed this on my E3V2 now but the nozzle is now higher than the stock part cooling duct, should I loosen the heatsink and lower the heatbreak until it clears?
@@afkafkafk I'm having the same issue, how did you solve it?
@@Juampagrox I have moved away to a trianglelabs microswiss clone after this, I found the bi metal heatbreak to be a complete waste of time, the microswiss clone has been very good to me
Will also work on Ender 3 Pro ?
Yes, this will work on all ender 3s, including S1
why do these ender 3's dont already come with a bimetal heatbreak :/ heatcreep is so common in stock ender 3's straight from the factory
any non 'Ali Express' links? They refuse to accept payment from me unless i provide them my license.. which no chinese company will get from me to simply make a purchase....
Your Aliexpress link is wrong
It makes you wonder why these printers don’t already come with a bi-metal heatbreak?
Price point and upgradeability. They are very entry level printers when you look at their bare bones. That's why I paid a little more for the S1 (which also doesn't have a bi-metal heatbreak lol) but has a lot of upgrades over the regular ender 3
I see a few problems here.
1 the heat break you installed is too short, there are longer ones. Your video shows the wrong parts.
2 the screws are not going in all the way because they hit the bottom of the hole because your heat break is too short. You can pull it out of the heat sink a bit so the screws don’t bottom out. All the force applied by the screws is also applied to the set screw because that is the only thing stopping it from sliding up more. The heat break is supposed to go into the heatsink until it stops. Yours is too short so this doesn’t happen. If it was long enough the screws wouldn’t bottom out and all the stress wouldn’t be on the set screw.
3 the whole assembly is now so short that the part cooling fan may be lower than the end of the nozzle and may touch the bed. It certainly is on the E3v2.
4 When you insert the Bowden tube there is a gap it has to cross in the heatsink before it reaches the too short heat break. It may not go all the way and you will have problems with the filament bending.
With so may things wrong you are more than likely going to have problems. Buy a mk8 version heat break which is long enough and show how to install that one.
I too bought some of these short heat breaks and know they are not worth using in an Ender 3.
100% spot on. There seems to be a few bi-metal Heartbreak videos around with the same concern.
Can you suggest an alternate heat break that is longer ?
@@nrich5127 The same heatbreak, but it has conical copper area that transitions into copper cylinder.
Interesting video as always 👍
What does this change the Catastrophic of the prints?
Is it possible to print higher temperatures?
How about clocks in the tubing, have this changed?
How are your experience with this change?
Check CNC kitchen video too!
Doing this upgrade without changing your retraction settings is a recipe for disaster 👌💯. You will pull molten filament back into the heat break and it WILL CLOG.
what setting value do you suggest ?
@@nrich5127 1mm max, it's not just a serring change, if you're using a knock off you'll need to incorporate a filament oiler. I'll get a link
@@nrich5127 th-cam.com/video/IRVB9E3XjlY/w-d-xo.html
Portuguese family? By the name Rui
Hi, actually, we are Portuguese living in Portugal :)
@@ruiraptor Eu tb 👍. Good English accent 👌
Obrigado 😉
Like another commentor already said, this video has basically been made obsolete 6h before its release by CNC-Kitchen. Please consider telling the people that the cheap/short clones won't work with the Ender-3, as they are too short and printing quality is bad.
Hi, thank you for sharing your thoughts on this topic.
This video is not a review, the purpose was to introduce the topic of bi-metal heat breaks and show how to install one on a Creality Ender 3.
The concept of bi-metal heat breaks and the advantages they "promise" over traditional ones was explained ... it was also mentioned, for the guys that have already tested one of these heat breaks (clones or originals), to share their experience in the comments.
Regarding the fact that a clone was used, it was for the simple fact that it was the one we had available (at the moment we don't have the original for comparison). Anyway, when analyzing the video mentioned, it is not clear which clone brand was tested. On the market, you can find clones of many different parts, some with good quality and some with poor quality, it does not mean that all clones have the same performance.
A print test was actually done at the end of the assembly to check whether the assembly was ok or not, however, it was not included in the video precisely because the video is not a review. Although the first test print didn't give any issues, we would need to run more extensive tests before we could recommend this upgrade or not.
Don't buy.
Can confirm I have the same issues as CNC Kitchen.
Have tried two different ones in different prints and for a couple months be for I worked out what was going on.
You had bad prints with PLA?
Disappointing. After seeing the video from CNC Kitchen, where he has shown that he had no success with this cheap clones compared to the original from Slice Engineering, I hoped to see another opinion regarding print quality, but the video ended before it could get interesting.
Hi Gerald, we understand but the purpose of our video is to show how to assemble the bi-metal heat break on a Creality Ender 3. At the moment, we don't have one original heat break from Slice Engineering to make the comparison.
@@ruiraptor A comparison wouldn't have been necessary. A test print would have been enough.
A print test was actually done at the end of the assembly to check whether the assembly was ok or not, however, it was not included in the video precisely because the video is not a review. Although the first test print didn't give any issues, we would need to run more extensive tests before we could recommend this upgrade or not.
@@ruiraptor please let us know after running more prints if this product works as described as well as being able to print higher temperature materials, and the print quality for all types of printing is as good or better than original equipment. Thank you!
Hi man!
I think you should never tell your name to any russian. Just...
It will be confusing)