Upgrading The Ender3V2: My Experience
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2023
- Modding my Ender 3 V2 like this was such a challenging and fulfilling project, and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to learn more about their printer! I hope you enjoy this video; it took a loooong time to make.
📷My Instagram⬇️
kiwibear_builds...
🔗Links to all printed upgrades⬇️
Ender3V2 V-Slot Covers: www.thingiverse.com/thing:457...
Ender3 V2 Belt Knob Covers: www.thingiverse.com/thing:506...
Ender3 V2 Control Knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:463...
SD Card Adapter Holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:468...
Minimus Hotend Cooler System: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
#ender3v2 #ender3 #crealityender3 #creality3d #modding #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinters - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
1:50 Printer Showcase
2:46 Upgrading Process
14:15 Noise Test Before/After
Work on your pronunciation
And stop swallowing words
I'm new to 3D printing. This is the best video I've come across so far. Everybody else speaks like a squirrel hopped up on speed and they edit like they're paying TH-cam $100 a second when they post the video.
This made me laugh😂 I’m glad you enjoyed my editing, or lack thereof!😂
Lovely video, great narration. Appreciate it 😊
Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Solid video!
Great Video! Im looking forward to getting mine soon and doing some similar things, im thinking you could print a guide for your filiment so it foes into the filliments sensor more straight and doesent catch or drag. Anyway i really enjoy your video, keep up the good work!
Thank you! I did print a filament guide 😅 maybe I need a better one with a wheel🤔 I appreciate it!😁
Good work
Great video. Love all the upgrades and it definitely gives me some ideas to improve my ender 3 V2. The biggest problem I was facing was a warped bed. If I place a metal ruler onto the bed I can clearly see that there is more than 1 mm difference between the corners and the middle of the glass bed. Buying a new bed was the only possible solution.
It would be nice if you could also add a link to which upgrades you bought! I am especially interested in the dual lead screw Z axis, the insulation under your bed and the silent fan! That are definitely things I want to change in my printer. I also don’t like the fact that the gantry is ‘hanging’ on one side…
Thanks again for the inspiration!
Dennis
Thank you, I’m glad I could give you some ideas! And yikes about the warped bed, that can be a real pain😬 I agree there is definitely benefit to a glass bed, since you know it will be level! And thank you for the suggestion! I went through and added links in the description, but for some reason it is not wanting to work at the moment, so I will go ahead and give you the links here in the meantime, if you still need them. Hope this helps!
Dual Lead screw kit: a.co/d/hIyKapR
Bed insulation: a.co/d/78KBnSG
Sunon 4020 (24v): www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sunon-fans/MF40202V2-1000U-A99/6198739?PMax%20Shopping_Product_Medium%20ROAS%20Categories&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLljyUXYU1unh4FsowYGT1E0I8&gclid=CjwKCAjwpJWoBhA8EiwAHZFzfpHa4H0hOUrHSR8ub_dxAgbNUavPdVJTmXuCz0wMzQYx0oRKImMKqxoClZ0QAvD_BwE
i just got mine i'm so excited!!
Happy upgrading!
Good video, the upgrades look nice!
Thanks!
Awesome vid! Love seeing it and that's what makes creality printers soo good, the community is amazing and the options to modify your printers are endless :D I recently converted my ender 5 to linear rails, maybe an uograde youcan look into with your printer in the futurr? It's super fun and makes it a lot more reliable
Couldn’t agree more! It’s a great community. Yes, I’ve heard people talk about the linear rails, I am planning to do some research on that!
Linear rails are really good
@@KiwibearBuilds you should do that even $10 linear rails are better than v wheels
Your video helped motivate me to upgrade my Ender 3. Thanks! :)
Awesome, that’s exactly why I made it! Happy upgrading :)
Great video!
My best upgrade by far was adding a Pi with Octoprint on it.
Hooked up an old webcam and can monitor my prints while away as well using OctoEverywhere or some other service.
No more fiddling with SD cards, lots of useful plugins, ability to make timelapses, real time g-code visualizations, canceling objects that failed while continuing to print others that are still fine and many more stuff like that.
At first I thought the process would be kind of daunting, but I set a few hours for it and it was the most worthwhile thing I did for the printer.
Even printed a little holder for it that connects to the printer, it's great!
Raspberry Pis are hard to come by these days, but I'm pretty sure you can use an alternative like an Orange Pi or similar products.
Anyway, great video! Really enjoyed it!
That’s awesome you got to use an old webcam! I’ve tried both octoprint and Klipper on different printers and could never seem to get it to work; I think I’m cursed to always use SD cards🤣 it was fun to mess with the plug-ins and things while it still worked, though! Octoprint is definitely an awesome service! Maybe someday I’ll try again😁 I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Most of my printed parts have been replacements for my own printer. This is how it goes I think. Ender 3 v2 with my own fan mount now.
@Kiwibear Builds do you have a link to the extruder mounted cable management? That looks perfect for my needs!
Unfortunately that is the only file I could not find the link to!😭there are lots of different styles of cable chain systems though that attach in different areas! I just kind of improvised having the chains mounted to the extruder motor. If you look up “Ender3V2 cable chains” on Thingiverse you’ll find tons of different options!
what fans are you using for your part cooling and are you still happy with them? im looking to upgrade mine soon and the desing youre using really hooked me!
Great video, thanks! I just dove in a few days ago with the Ender 3 V2 after getting it tweaked up and printing I am barely at the point of knowing what I don't know yet lol.
The learning process can definitely be overwhelming😅 You’ll know what to do in no time though, happy printing!
I am so stealing your upgrade ideas. New to this, glad I found your channel. Good stuff!
Haha, go for it! I’m glad I could help!
thanks for the SD Card Adapter Holder tip
No problem 👍
@@KiwibearBuilds but you say it saved inserting in out in out mine wont read if i dont insert the adapter as well. so only benefit i see is slightly better ergo on getting the card it its still where and tear on the slot. remove card use it on pc then insert card then remove adapter then insert adapter for printer to read
Maybe try moving the spool to vertical to cut down on the shavings
I agree. The Ender 3 v2 is super improvable. I've made many of the same improvements, but I'm running Klipper on mine, and a SKR Mini 3 v3, and a Creality Spider 3 hot end. Oh, CR-Touch instead of BL-Touch. Have fun with yours. Mine is my go to printer for high quality low tolerance prints.
For sure! I’m running Klipper as well and it has been fun! Difficult at first, but fun.😂 Yes, the ender has become super reliable for me too on the same level of my Prusa. :)
👌
What hotend or part cooling system are you using? Currently have the spider 3, but want to upgrade to 5015s.
I have an Ender 3 S1 (terrible QC out of the box) and an Ender 3 Neo (awesome QC out of the box) and have learned a lot about 3D printing using both. Ugh. Can relate to the wrongly wired cables with products from Creality and sketchy documentation. I didn't release any magic smoke, but got close to it before I double checked. Also, having quiet fans is the best. Two 5015 fans at 50% speed is definitely the way to go.
Enjoyed the video. Hope you make more.
Huh, I thought the S1 looked pretty cool, but I guess it’s not all it’s cracked up to be. Also yes, from now on I’ll always be double checking!😅 lesson learned! Also, I totally agree! I’ve been getting great cooling with the fan setup and also it’s decently quiet! Thank you, I appreciate it😁
@@KiwibearBuildsdo you happen to have a link to the fans you upgraded to?.. and possibly a link to a video showing how to make use of more than 1 fan? i have an ender 3 neo that can stand a little shushing ;)
Which 5015 radial fans are you using? I’m interested to know which ones good and have a decent noise level… Is this also from the Sunon brand or is this another version? Thx for the help!
Sorry for the delay! I just picked some Winsinn ones up off of Amazon, but I would honestly recommend getting better ones. I mostly got these because they were cheap. I have heard great things about the Sunon 5015’s; when I upgrade that is probably what I’m going to get!
Also you should definitely get a raspberry pi and octoprint, it's easy to setup and you'll enjoy so much more your printer by controlling it from a computer.
best upgrades for me for now was klipper and dual z belt single motor of kevinakasam and its printing perfect and kind of fast waiting on the extruder and hotend to have more flow to get more speed also i will install a dragon burner toolhead on it . klipper is a must have and if someday you have to change you lead screw just do the dual z belt and forget about lubrication wearing binding whatsoever much better x gantry aligment and wall are allways perfect.
Awesome video! You really made that printer yours. I have an Aquila X2 (ender 3 V2 clone) and even though it’s definitely not as capable as my Qidi X-Plus 3, I like it more because of all the tinkering and little upgrades I’ve done to it. Maybe this video was bad for me to watch because now I want to do more!
Thank you! For sure, there’s something special about printers you’ve modded. once you get the tinkering bug it’s hard to stop!😂 good luck!
How did you install 2 dual fan blowers and can you make a tutorial
Super awesome video you have made, I'll definitely have to try some of these out myself, but there is one upgrade u could try if you want that I put on my ender 3 v2. I saw filament Friday make a video on this but it is by far my favorite upgrade I have done. Basically u print a little washer and then cut your Bowden tube to a specific length, then you put that very short Bowden tube into the hot end after cleaning it out ofc the put the washer on top and screw the coupling over it. This upgrade was legendary because over time the Bowden tube always wears out and starts to loosen up which let's plastic start to get stuck between it and the nozel and the cause a lot of extra friction and a drastic drop in print quality. But with this upgrade it doesn't have to dig into the tube and is just screwed tight and then u just connect the longer part of the tube afterwards. That will still wear down but it won't matter because the gap created will be above the heatsink and no plastic will get into it. This made the Bowden tubes last significantly longer and I got way less string and overall nicer prints and it's a super easy upgrade
I have actually heard about that and was thinking about trying it! Thanks for the tip! That was a great explanation by the way. :)
Time to compile your own firmware! :D
Next time?😁
You can put your runout sensor back on, there are arms that push the filament out at an angle the way you were holding it in the video. That way the filament isn't damaged when it goes into the sensor. But, sorry, I don't ahve a fix fro the noise.
Great video! I got my first printer a month ago, an Ender 3 Neo, and I think there hasn't been a day I didn't print something. I'm hesitant to make too much mods since is working very good. The main thing for me was to use the cr touch with pronterface to check the numbers of the 16 points and adjust the wheels until I got them all under 0,1 mm, so they all are 0,0## and then I don't use the g29 before every print because the bed is leveled for a long time. I did changed the springs for silicone spacers, which helped to get the bed almost rock solid (I have also locked the wheels with some printed clips so they don't rotate whenever they want with vibrations etc). I was about to buy that exact PEI sheet which is beatiful, but the glass is working well with some adhesive spray here and there. I will probably do some of this stuff at some point, particularly interested in the quiet fans.
Glad you got your printer up and running well! It really is a fun hobby if you can get everything working right. I highly recommend the fans, they improve the sound a lot!
@@KiwibearBuilds 👍👍👍 btw I changed my mind and today I just got a pei sheet...jeezz this is a dream to print on!!! 😍😍
@@Drumaier I know right?? You definitely made the right decision!
I've got 2 v2s an s1 and a pro and also am building an ender extender with 4.2.7 board and tft screen upgrade so it's more like my s1 and v2 screens. I'm a big fan of the 4020 blowers and hot end fans and have a few. I ordered a couple of the 5015s to upgrade my sprite extruders on my s1 and one of my v2s.. I hear they're alot louder though.. my extender is alittle modified I ended up making it a 550mm build hight.
Oh awesome, good luck with the ender extender! Yeah the 5015’s are pretty loud, so I use two and run them both at 50% so they’re a lot quieter. Definitely not silent, but it’s quiet enough for me and has more than enough cooling!
heart warming
life changing.
relatable.
should do more exotic filaments.
Pla pretty meh for parts.
Well, you don't tell your name in the video so... Hey you! 😊 I loved this video. There is only one thing that is missing. A link for the fan and model number.
Outside from that, great tips! 😉👍
I'm sorry if this has been covered, but where did you put your power supply to make room for the second z screw/motor?
Thanks for your help too.
The ender 3 V2 model actually has the power supply in the base of the printer and not standing up at the side, so you don’t have to move anything👍🏻 there are ways people move the power supply though and I know there are TH-cam videos on it! If you need help finding one I can help 👍🏻
You could try an optical filament sensor, they have no friction and are essentially just a light and a phototransistor so if the light is blocked the filament is there, if the light isn’t blocked then you have run out.
That would be great, thanks for the tip!
Wow you're a bad ass. Im brand new to 3D printing, I just bought the Ender 3 V2 the other day for $99.
Haha, why thank you! That’s a great deal on the Ender; I hope you have fun printing and upgrading if you chose to do so!
I switched to an skr minie3 board and luckily it has better protections in place if you install the bltouch wrong. I guess I figured out why my upgraded creality board let out the magic blue smoke after first boot lol.
That’s good that it has those protections in place! It would be a shame to short a new motherboard!😅
Plz link your fixed drag chain
The sprite whas the best upgrade for me with octoprint
I’d recommend an enclosure if it’s in the same room. I lived with my printer in my room for a while and I’ve become sensitive to it over the years. Even pla gives me a headache and still gives off some vocs
Interesting, I didn’t think even pla could have that affect. I’ve looked into enclosures before for fire safety, but that’s something else to add to the list!
I'm following in your footsteps so to speak. I just installed the minimus fan shroud and dialed back in my bltouch etc. and it prints well. The 4020 fan fits well for me but 5015 were super tight and overall the print came out just good enough for me to use. The rails were the worst, I spend like 2h just clicking the mechanism on and off to make them not seize. I upgraded all the fans but the PSU one. I printed the motherboard cover that promised that I wouldn't have to use feet raisers... and now I'm printing feet raisers. There are 2 parts that annoy me. I have the same 4020 fans as you but the one on my hotend is for some reason whistling when printing. The other one is that my printer did not get much quieter at all. Why? Turns out my PSU is making a lot of the noise and I just found out that it's because ender3 v2 has no vent holes so the fan is constantly on and dependent on how your PSU cover is placed it can make quite a bit of noise. So I'll be printing the minimal PSU cover I found and leaving the PSU uncovered besides the contacts. I'll be a bit pissed if this fixes the noise issue but also pleased.
Side note: Of course I screwed up installing the fans and I just about crapped myself before I realized that I just connected the 2 5015 to hotend cooling and vice versa. Just had to switch them around since I didn't fry anything because the polarities were done properly. Works really well and I'm running everything with 50% cooling and I turned off the minimum layer time in cura completely for PLA because my cooling is great now and cura's flow compensation was giving me mixed results. I printed calibration cube and calibration dragon this way and the differences are small but I'm pretty sure these are the best ones I've printed so far.
Yep, the joy of upgrading printers, haha! Improve one thing and end up having to fix three others🤣 I agree that the 4020 fan fit well and the 5015’s were way too tight. I don’t even know how I got them to fit, but it was a struggle 😂 also, I was thinking about adding linear rails, but it seems like that could end up being a struggle as well? And totally agreed about the PSU being super loud… I’m not comfortable messing with the PSU just yet so I’m leaving it for now and just enjoying all of the other quiet fans. The PSU fan is loud but definitely less of an annoying sound than the other stock fans to me. But that is a good idea about the minimal PSU cover, I may have to try that sometime! Thanks for the tip! I’m glad all of your upgrades turned out well!😁
Nice vid. I replaced my fans with 4 Noctua fans ($15 per one year ago) and am no longer suffering from the noise as I put my Ender 3 v2 in my home office. I also have OctoPrint. Love it. I’m planning to buy a Bambu Lab P1S next.
Awesome! I was debating putting noctuas in mine but ultimately chose the sunons for the higher CFM. I’ve heard lots of people say the noctuas work perfectly for them though!
@@KiwibearBuilds those are good enough. For the PSU and main board cooling I installed two 92x14mm fans. And for hotend and part cooling I installed 2 40x20mm.
I spent over the years double, maybe triple the cost of my ender 3 v1, dual z rod, bl touch, glass plate, seemecnc, duet board. But i still love it, i only print tpu with it now though
Isn’t that how it goes?😂 the cost of the upgrades stack way faster than I was expecting haha, but I agree it’s worth it! I haven’t printed TPU with my ender yet, but I may try it
For the minimus shroud, how did you wire in the 5015 blower fan? Did you just splice and heatshrink it? I'm gonna use the minimus with the dual 5015 blower fans and I'm thinking of just splicing them together instead worrying about JST connectors and making a splitter. How do you like the shroud and parts cooling?
Yep, that’s exactly what I did! Honestly, I may go back in the future and put in JST splitters just for replaceability, but it’s working good for now! I’ve been loving the shroud, and it’s working great! The only problem I’ve had is actually getting the 5015’s in; you really have to push on it to get them to go in there😂 then again, my tolerances aren’t the best and yours may be better.
Hey, quick question, I was wondering what fans you used for your hotend?
This is a link to the exact fan on Digi-Key but you can get it anywhere you want! th-cam.com/users/redirect?event=comments&redir_token=QUFFLUhqbjd2ajZMRUF4RkJodlV6aWN2QnFfemlYenhWQXxBQ3Jtc0tuZmhXcU1PbUVZNUxoSE5wLW5PYUJ6OEZhd0RjQnBMb0pVaURZRlQ2Q0ZNSm5qSnlnY21vWjY2Z0phcFpBenJLX0Z6TWtvOGVzZHRoX2MtbmN4M3FBeTJYNDd1aExHSmpwUWVFamV4UkR0QU9ZREZ0TQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.digikey.com%2Fen%2Fproducts%2Fdetail%2FMF40202V2-1000U-A99%2F6198739&html_redirect=1
@@KiwibearBuilds Awesome, thank you!
Which fans did you get? Do you have a link?
Sunon Maglev 4020 (24v): www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sunon-fans/MF40202V2-1000U-A99/6198739?PMax%20Shopping_Product_Medium%20ROAS%20Categories&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLljyUXYU1unh4FsowYGT1E0I8&gclid=CjwKCAjwpJWoBhA8EiwAHZFzfpHa4H0hOUrHSR8ub_dxAgbNUavPdVJTmXuCz0wMzQYx0oRKImMKqxoClZ0QAvD_BwE
Sorry it took awhile, hope this helps!
Which SD card ribbon adapter did you purchase to fit the holder? Also which version did you download from thingsverse link?
This is the one I got: a.co/d/1VydczB
I honestly don’t remember which version it was, but any should be fine. I know one of them has an extra hole to screw into the bottom of the printer, if that suits your needs.
about the right gantry sagging there is a bolt kind of thing that you can move so that it isn't sagging just wanted to say that for everyone who has an ender 3 v2 its also on the hotend plate.
Thanks for the info! I agree the double z screw isn’t a necessary upgrade, it was just a personal choice since it still sat a little crooked even with the eccentric nut tightened. Definitely not mandatory though!
Luv your video - I recently got an Ender 3 Pro on indefinite loan for free from my son and I've started to learn. I was lucky because after changing the magnetic bed sheet ( because the original one was showing substantial wear ) and following some basic YT videos on leveling , I have successfully made 5 prints with zero bed adhesion issues. Is it fast like a Bamboo Lab X1, of course not but I'm learning a lot and just about any issue has a fix by someone. It came with 5 rolls of filament so my cost is close to zero - what a great hobby. Sincerely a question - how the hell did you spot the reversed wiring ? - I would have plugged it in and blown the main PCB.
That’s great you got a free printer and have gotten into the hobby! Bed adhesion was one of the main things I struggled with in getting my printers set up but it feels great when you get it right. Also, I actually did not spot it and plugged it in, and got extremely lucky that it didn’t ruin my board😅 only after some searching did I figure out that the cable was backwards. I plan to make a short video about that topic in case it can help someone spot the problem before plugging it in!
Do you have the link for the wire management cable holder that goes from the hot end down towards the extruder it looks like old telephone cord
Yes! This is a link to the armadillo flex file with lots of different length and width options, but the minimus fan shroud itself is free and comes with a short length of the armadillo flex. 👍🏻
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/armadillo-flex-wire-conduit
May i know the vref for ur motherboard 4.2.7
10:40 open it and loosen the spring (the sensor is just a spring and a switch, a simple little thing) it's going to take you 5 minutes and it will work perfectly afterward.
2:54 You can remedy this by snipping the tab off the Z axis end stop bracket and lowering it to compress the springs more, the plastic wheels are better than the heavy aluminum red wheels. If you're going CR Touch/BL Touch you don't even need springs anymore.
3:07 This is a reason lots of people have extrusion issues is the internally failed couplers that don't grip the PTFE Bowden tubes.
3:55 This is a pointless add-on.
4:28 You went from 2.8kg extrusion force to 5kg but the weight of the extruder is bad. (You also have an adjustable metal extruder already, albeit single gear).
5:01 Yes they're loud, Noctua fans work. But they don't upgrade the printer. (24V)
6:26 Is a huge reason people mess up upgrading their machine.
7:28 Way better than the heavy glass bed your printer has sling back and forth, let alone the quality of life having to remove prints to start another is faster.
7:50 This is a huge quality of life improvement for a 3D printer user. CR Touch.
10:03 Your filament run out sensor is not inline with your filament path...
12:20 How are you worried about cable tension but not the tension from the filament path at 10:03 lol...
Cable drag chains are super effective on the Ender 3, especially the older Ender 3's.
13:03 non existent Z axis threaded rod coupler....
13:12 How are you worried about gantry weight but added those heavy wheels to the bed? Lol.
You use a Minimus Hotend Cooler System but with 40x20 fans. From where did you get it? As far as I know Rogue_Designs offers only model for 40x19 fans. Did you it by yourself?
Yes, I forgot to mention it in the video but I actually elongated it a tiny bit in the slicer so they 4020 fans could fit. I didn’t know why they didn’t fit the first time, but that makes more sense!
Great video! Next you gotta build your own printer from the ground up :)
Thank you! Yes, I’ve been wanting to do something like that or a Voron project for the longest time! Who knows, maybe someday I will😁
@@KiwibearBuilds Vorons are loads of fun. You could probably print that suit in a quarter of the time!
@@mitsubishimakesfor sure! I’d love to build one if I ever get the chance!
Did I see right that only SOME v2's can be upgraded to this 4.2.7 motherboard?
I have an ender 3V2 and i want to make some upgrade like the mother board and the magnetique bed can you put links pls
Sorry that took a bit. If you still need them, here are the links. Later I will put all of the links in the description!
4.2.7 motherboard: a.co/d/eTtAslK
Magnetic bed: a.co/d/aHf49Z7
great video but i can’t find the fan you used, any help?
Sure thing! This is a link to the exact fan I used on Digi-Key. But you can get it in both 12 and 24v according to what printer you’re using. There is also a 4010 option, but it has lower CFM and will also need to be louder to have the same output, so I thought this was the perfect middle ground. Tell me if you have any questions! www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/MF40202V2-1000U-A99/6198739
@@KiwibearBuilds ty i appreciate it, i got my ender 3 v2 not knowing anything abt printers cause i needed one for a project of mine and saw it was convenient but I want to make it the most optimal printer i can.
dont understand why the direct drive conversion people make to there printers nice to see your not useing one dont waste your time it has made no difference to any one and never will great video thank you
I agree it is definitely not as necessary as a lot of people think. It has its pros and cons but ultimately Bowden just works for my printers and I doubt I’d see any difference if I switched! I’m glad someone agrees 😂
link to the Sunon hot end cooler fan?
This is it on Digi-Key but you can get it on Amazon as well if you look it up; it just has to be 4020 and 24v for the Ender3 :
www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/sunon-fans/MF40202V2-1000U-A99/6198739?PMax%20Shopping_Product_Medium%20ROAS%20Categories&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLljyUXYU1unh4FsowYGT1E0I8&gclid=CjwKCAjwpJWoBhA8EiwAHZFzfpHa4H0hOUrHSR8ub_dxAgbNUavPdVJTmXuCz0wMzQYx0oRKImMKqxoClZ0QAvD_BwE
@@KiwibearBuilds THANKS!!!!
Next Linear rails mods for XYZ axis :)
Haha yes, maybe next time! 😁
My Ender3v2 Had a warped extrusion I didn't catch until last week XD
Had it for a year and never figured out why my first layer was inconsistent even over small distances. Turns out a warped X extrusion can cause massive differences!!!
Dang, that sucks… seems like a problem that’s difficult to spot. Glad you got it taken care of!
@@KiwibearBuilds Very, I didn’t get an ABL prove until I got my KlackEnder and Klipper but from what I could find it would not have mattered and actually would have been worse unless I had a 0-Y offset mount and with my duct that is next to impossible. Though I am printing a new duct once I get this squared away, literally 😂
Interesting, that sounds pretty complicated to fix. Also, I really wish I had known about KlackEnder before bought a BLtouch, it would’ve been cheaper and also more fun to make.😂
@@KiwibearBuilds yeah the klack was the best thing I’ve ever done besides Klipper. So quick update, the problem is LESS bad with the new X but I still have inconsistent first layers. So confused now cause the people I talked to have fixed their problem this way 😂 Imma lose it
@@SiFireHasSpeed huh, that’s weird. Have you gone around to check the basic stuff like loose screws and wheels, bed tramming, or warps in your bed? Also, I used to have a lot of trouble with adhesion on every bed I used until I moved to a pei sheet, but it is kind of different for everyone
Quite confused as to why you saw such a noise reduction switching from the 4.2.2 to 4.2.7 board. The 4.2.2 should have 2208 silent steppers. The 4.2.7 does have, I think, 2225 drivers, but they are to all intents and purposes the same.
Yeah it is a little confusing, some 4.2.2 boards are silent and some are not, it just depends on whether they use silent stepper motor drivers, whereas all 4.2.7 boards are silent
@@KiwibearBuilds I did read on other Ender 3 models you could get either, but on the V2 they were all silent. Who knows - Creality are always changing things
Agreed, they do change things a lot😅 and I’ve definitely heard of some peoples V2’s being silent, so I guess I had bad luck with mine😂
Just started to mod mine!
do you have the link for the fans?
Yes, this is the link to the specific one I used on Digi-Key! You can get the same fan in 12v or thinner, but this one was perfect for me. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/MF40202V2-1000U-A99/6198739
@@KiwibearBuilds i wish they had the Noctua in 24v.
thank you for the link!
@@wollinger even if they had a 24v noctua I wouldn’t have trusted it to cool the hotend since it has such low CFM, but that’s just me. I think this fan is a good middle ground! Of course, I’m happy to help!
I look at the ender as a box of parts. Creality put together a BASE system, and although it will print, its meant to make into your own. That said, Creality is a bad company, their products out of box have much to be desired, and their warranty is non existent. I am glad you have fun with the Ender. Look into the lead screw elimination mod.
I can definitely see that. I’ve personally had fun with it but yeah, I’ve had bad experiences with creality cutomer support, I think they kind of use the community to be their customer support😂 they’re good for accessibility though so you can get yourself started in the hobby with a cheap printer. Also sounds interesting, I’ll look into that upgrade. Thanks!
@@KiwibearBuilds th-cam.com/video/438sJ2AEgXs/w-d-xo.html
lead screws are FTL seriously, this is the best ever. Only thing that you will get hung up on is the wire to the control board from stepper.
Yes Creality also wants the customer base to fix their stuff, make the fixes, share fixes, and they just include those fixes in on the next gen of printer like they did it. I don't like the company Creality, if I can get the $99 from Microcenter I will though, just to mod and fix.
Wow that looks interesting, I’ll look into that. Also, true😂 maybe that explains why they have so many versions of each printer lol
@@KiwibearBuilds haha yes!! Anywho.. I will be watching, I need to get a channel set up soon. Have fun!
I will, thanks for the recommendation!
I’m new to the printer world so excuse this question. But why do people buy the low cost printer just to spend more money on upgrades? The more expensive ones won’t do what the upgrades will? I bought an ender 3 pro that’s why I’m asking.
There are a few reasons and it depends on the person. Sometimes it's better to pay to make a printer exactly as you want it and be able to say you built it yourself. For others it's because they want to start cheap and slowly make it better. Other times it's still cheaper to make a cheap printer better than it is to buy a better printer off the bat.
Exactly. For me, I bought this printer before I knew much about them at all, and then having a more expensive printer raised the bar for what I wanted in my printers, so I decided to upgrade.
those were molex connectors
This was a pretty good video. However, I wish you would speak up because there is a lot of redeeming value in what you have to talk about. "It is not just for fun when it comes to somebody like you that knows what you are talking about as other people can really benefit from your knowledge. "Like the part about installing the B-L-Touch?" That was truly interesting. 🤔🧐🤓
I don’t like to speak in absolutes because I don’t want to lead anyone wrong, but I do love helping people with this stuff, it’s something I’m passionate about! I plan on doing another video on upgrading my CR10S, and I’m thinking about doing a more informative/tutorial approach on that one. I appreciate the feedback and glad you enjoyed!
@@KiwibearBuilds You are somebody that I can respect as you are humble and wize. I like and subscribe to your channel because you are truly interesting. 🤔 There is this young Asian girl and her brother that do a very good 3D printing channel on TH-cam. I will send you the link, however, I'll bet you already know who they are.💪 So, keep up the good work because you are one of the best. 🧐🤩🥳🥂
@@master-gbig1140 thank you, I really appreciate that! I’m glad you’ve found my channel so interesting! Yes, I’ve seen their videos, they are some of the most informative 3d printer reviews I have found! I really appreciate the support!😁
Nice job! Wondering if any custom PCBs or 3D printing/ CNC may help? If so, would love to sponsor and reach any YT collab together! (PCBWay zoey)
Yes that would be awesome, thank you for reaching out! I’d love to talk over some ideas!😁
@KiwibearBuilds It will be super cool! Warmly welcome! You can find my contact info under this account. ☺️
Nice video. Do more about the ender 3 v2. Sub from me
Thanks for the sub!
You claim the BL touch with the wrong cable will ruin your motherboard but then you say you just swapped the wires and it worked, yes it could damage your motherboard or the bl touch but I think you were being a bit dramatic.
Everyone I was talking with at the time about the problem seemed shocked my board wasn’t fried… I either got really lucky that it still works, or the backwards cable wasn’t as harmful as I thought. I would like to think it is the latter, but searching on the internet I found a lot of posts of peoples boards being ruined because of the cable
Most motherboards are unprotected against power shorts in the sense that a short on the low voltage rails will fry the linear regulator generating it.
This however is not guaranteed, since
1. The failure is temperature related and most regulators have a high temperature cutoff. The regulator will fail regardless when shorted since this protection is too slow, but if the short is "bad" then it might survive.
2. The BL touch could be protected against reverse polarity. A protection circuit can be done e.g. with a simple inline diode. I dont know if the bltouch has something like this, but its not out of the question. I would however never rely on it being there!
Just a bit of background regarding this issue and why the board might have survived.
@@jojoposter interesting, thank you for the info! Either way i am thankful the board survived and I will definitely be more careful next time!
This is me clicking off at :22 because your sound is so bad. You sounds as though your being kidnapped.